MYOKO CONNECT
004 Welcome to Myoko 008 A Quick Look At The Resorts 010 What is New This Year 012 Meet Mr. Madarao 014 Day Trips from Myoko 016 Onsen Time 018 Japanese Food Glossary 020 Myoko Connections 022 The Map 024 Bus Schedules 026 The Ski Areas & Lift Maps 038 Stay Safe in the Backcountry Publisher Snow Connections Editor Steve Williams Contributors Stewart Adamson James Robb Photgraphers Patrick Fux Advertising Sales Mikiyo Williams Design Michael Grove Mao Hashiba
MYOKO CONNECT
On the Cover: The Editor enjoying the deep powder at Akakura Kanko Ski Area.
Contact Information 1606-4 Hokujo, Hakuba Nagano 399-9301 English Tel: 080-3126-0247 Japanese Tel: 080-3422-9005 Email: sales@snow-connections.com
Published by Snow Connections
SNOW CONNECTIONS Myoko Connect
3
4
Myoko Connect
WELCOME TO MYOKO KOGEN
Less developed and more traditionally Japanese than Hakuba, more variety than Nozawa Onsen and sitting on a much bigger mountain, more of lived-in and more vertical than Shiga Kogen, more snow than all three.... It’s suffice to say that Myoko has a lot to offer international skiers and snowboarders. Myoko Connect
5
The region takes its name from Mount Myoko, the vast 2,454m mountain that dominates the south-west Niigata skyline and is home to five of the Myoko ski areas. Myoko is actually an active volcano, the second of five big volcanoes that cross Japan in a north-south line. Repeated eruptions in pre-history formed a belt-like geological region called the Fossa Magna that extends to the Pacific. The southmost of the five volcanoes is the symbol of Japan itself, Mount Fuji. Though “active”, Myoko’s last eruption was over 4,000 years ago. When not erupting, volcanoes mean fertile soil and hot springs (“onsen”), and it is as the latter that Myoko became established as a destination for travelers. The granddaddy of the Myoko onsens is Seki, which has welcomed visitors to its iron-rich waters since 1729. Akakura Onsen opened in 1816. There are now seven onsens in Myoko, with waters that range from rusty red to milky white and have different therapeutic effects. Myoko expanded in the post-war period with the Japanese booms in hiking in the 1960s and skiing in the 1970s and 80s, but the European influence of mountain-based leisure has remained secondary. To this day, Myoko is a collection of onsen towns with ski lifts, not a ski resort with onsens. Skiing got its start in Myoko at Akakura. In 1937, the Akakura Kanko Hotel was built as one of Japan’s first European-style resort hotels. The building of the first ski lifts in the post-war period sparked gold-rush style development, with small rival areas opening up side by side. These areas have since mended their differences and joined up to form the ski areas we know today. The main characteristic of skiing at Myoko is that it snows a lot! A typical season will bring 14 meters of cumulative snowfall, with most resorts hitting a base of 4 meters by late season. Despite this, temperatures are relatively mild, often in a range of -1 to -5C on the slopes. Unlike colder resorts, dress sensibly and you shouldn’t need an extra layer for the lifts or a facemask to protect any exposed skin. Unlike European resorts located high in the alpine, there is also no risk of altitude sickness. The biggest risk for most people is getting stuck in some very deep snow! For information on the separate ski areas in the Myoko region, see the individual guides later in this magazine. Most areas have wide lower slopes ideal for beginners and steeper upper slopes with great tree skiing through beech and birch forests.
6
Myoko Connect
Rather than being isolated up a mountain somewhere, the ski areas are all directly linked to accommodation/onsen-centered villages where you can stay, eat, and ease the day’s aches away in the bath. If you have ever wondered how much snow a 75-year-old man can shovel, we’re sure a Myoko local will show you the answer. You’ll also see the vast array of machinery used to keep the roads clear in this climate. Some of it is very impressive. Myoko is located only 25km or so from the Japan Sea, providing local hotels, ryokan inns, and restaurants with a regular supply of quality seafood. Many varieties of fish are at their best in winter due to the increased fat content. Like other hot spring regions, Myoko serves up onsen manju, sweet-filled dumplings, and onsen tamago, runny-boiled eggs, both of which are prepared using hot spring water. Myoko’s unusual meibutsu (famous regional food) is “kanzuri”, an aged chili sauce made with salted peppers, fermented rice, and other natural flavourings and sold in small bottles. During the traditional manufacturing process, salted chilis are laid out directly on the snow for several days to soften the flavour. Niigata is the premier rice-growing region of Japan, and the endless supply of crystal-clear mountain water ensures local sake brewers have two prime ingredients with which to work their magic. Regular tastings are held around Myoko, but you can always just go to an izakaya pub and try them yourself. Life goes slow in Myoko, and the biggest news of late has been the arrival of the Shinkansen bullet train in spring 2015. The line is an extension of the Nagano Shinkansen that was built for the 1998 Winter Olympics, and now reaches Kanazawa, a historic city home to the Kenrokuen garden. The station for Myoko is “Joetsu Myoko” and trains to Tokyo take just one hour and fifty minutes. When boarding at Tokyo, be sure to get the “Hakutaka” (White Hawk) service. Other services on the line do not stop at Joetsu Myoko. For any down days, the Shinkansen now offers great access to Nagano City with the impressive Zenkoji temple and to Joetsu City in Niigata for shopping and gourmet seafood. An ever-popular day trip is to see the snow monkeys of Jigokudani. You can get up really close to them and they’re really cute!
Myoko Connect
7
MYOKO AREA Mt. MYOKO 2,454m MYOKO SUGINOHARA The southernmost of the four resorts on Mount Myoko, Suginohara reaches up the highest, meaning the lowest temperatures to keep that powder fluffy. The resort’s 1,124 meters of vertical place it second only to Kagura among Japanese ski areas.
AKAKURA KANKO
MYOKO SUGINOHARA IKENOTAIRA
8
Myoko Connect
IKENOTAIRA
AKAKURA KANKO
The middle of the resorts on Mount Myoko, Iketaira follows the classic Myoko model. That is, tons of snow, steepest and best views at the top, gentle and wide at the bottom, onsens at the base.
With about 760m of vertical, Akakura Kanko (often shortened to “Akakan”) is the second largest resort in Myoko Kogen. The resort is centered on the impressive red roofed Akakura Resort Hotel. It is great to get your bearing from the hotel if you get lost.
SKI RESORTS SEKI ONSEN With only two lifts, one a somewhat rickety-looking single chair, the easiest thing to say is that Seki Onsen is not for everyone. The resort has its fans though, and they are devotees to powder.
AKAKURA ONSEN SEKI ONSEN MADARAO KOGEN
AKAKURA ONSEN
MADARAO KOGEN
Akakura Onsen has the only night skiing available in Myoko., where they usually set up some park features. Though mostly east-facing, the resort has some northfacing runs that keep good snow when the sun is baking the rest of Akakura.
Lying right on the border between Niigata and Nagano, Madarao shares the huge snowfall of nearby Nozawa Onsen and Myoko, a natural bounty that the resort is doing its best to share with its powder-hungry visitors.
Myoko Connect
9
DONDOYAKI FIRE FESTIVAL Japanese love their fire festivals and none more so than here in Myoko. Join in the fun at the Dondoyaki Firework Festival located at Suginohara Ski Area. Start from 5:00pm, expect food stalls, Japanese sake and of course fireworks. Saturday 21st January
ASIA PHYSIO
ONWARD TRAVEL The nice guys at Nagano Snow Shuttle have realized just how popular Myoko is becoming and increased the daily departures to Narita and Haneda Airports. Starting from December 17th and running through to March 12th they will operate four daily services to Narita Airport and a daily service to Haneda Airport. The buses also stop in Tokyo City; great for those guests who are extending their stay with a few nights in the big city. Nagano Snow Shuttle will also have inter-resort shuttles between Myoko, Nozawa Onsen, Shiga Kogen and Hakuba. These shuttles are twice daily at 10:45 and 15:45. Check out the back page of this publication for all times or check naganosnowshuttle.com.
10
Myoko Connect
Skiing and snowboarding are hard sports especially on the body and legs. This season Asia Physio is here to make sure that you can get back on the slopes without any pain. Visit them in the Silverhorn Hotel (map D-6) where they will soothe your tired muscles and revitalize your body and mind. They have highly qualified and very experienced massage therapists who will tune your body and prepare you for your next day on the mountain.
KIDS IN MYOKYO Taking a family on an overseas ski trip can be expensive with a lot of extra costs to be taken into account. The ski resorts know this and would like to help out. All children pre-school age ski or snowboard for free at all the Myoko ski areas throughout the season. School in Japan starts at 6 years old. Myoko Suginohara being a part of the large Prince Hotel group goes a step further with free skiing and snowboarding for all elementary school age children. So basically under 12s ski free but must be accompanied by paying adults. We are sure that every little bit of saving helps!
NEVERLAND SNOWMOBILE TOURS Take a look at the picture on the left, the pristine untouched powder of the Myoko backcountry, now imagine riding on high performance snowmobiles, faster than skiing or snowboarding through endless acres of snow‌welcome to the world of Myoko Snowmobiles. The full day tours take about 4 hours with pick up around the Akakura area of Myoko, followed by equipment check which includes full backcountry gear, then it is a quick tutorial and on the snowmobile into the deep powder. Because the tour goes into the backcountry only those 15 years and older can join. Please wear warm snowsports clothing. Check ad on page 15
THE LONGEST PARK
NEW!
Suginohara will this winter extend their length of multiple snow items in their Sugi Park. A total of between 30 to 40 obstacles inlcuding kickers, jumps and rails will run on the Panorama Course for a total of 1000m. Use the Mitahara High Speed Quad 2 Chairlift to get back to the top. Can you ride them all in one run?
RADIO CHECK...... OVER & OUT Recently many overseas visitors are bringing radio equipment, namely walkie talkies with them on their ski trip as a means of communicating in the ski areas. Unless it has the Japanese compliance mark then these radios violate Japanese law and can interfere with administrative broadcasting relating to disaster prevention, especially true in the mountains when avalanches could strike at any time. If in doubt switch it off.
Myoko Connect
11
MEET MR. MADARAO
AKI KITAMURA T
he resort of Madarao Kogen is legendary in Japan wintersports circles. Its snowsure reputation and wide variety of terrain for families and freeriders alike make the ski area a treat for everyone visiting. But nobody knows the terrain and the operations better than Mr. Madaroa himself, Aki Kitamura. We sat down for a chat with Aki to discuss his childhood in Madarao as well as his new ventures.
12
Myoko Connect
Hi Aki, please tell us a little about yourself and where you are from? I was born right here in Madarao. My parents run a lodge and I grew up during the Japanese ski bubble. My parents were so busy that ski school was a form of babysitting service. During school hours P.E was often taken on the mountain. So, I guess you know Madarao better than anyone….. Well I have skied every winter on Madarao for over 30 years, so I am not sure about the number of days but it must be in the thousands. It was because of this knowledge of Madarao’s mountains that I started to research more fun lines that would keep everyone happy. It was 7 years ago that Madarao Kogen opened its first tree skiing run, which at that time was one of the first in the whole of Japan. What jobs have you done working for Madarao? What jobs haven’t I done! The best method to make sure that the customers have their ideal time on the mountain is to know everything about it. Therefore I have been involved in the ski area management, ski patrol, backcountry guide, hotel service and I am usually the go to guy whenever they need a MC at any Madarao events. We heard you went to Australia….. Yes, I had the opportunity to go to Mt. Buller, Madarao Kogen’s sister resort, with my family two years ago to work. Not only did it improve my English skills but I learned a lot about the resort operations. I realized the difference between Japanese and Australian operations and hopefully we have blended the best of them together here at Madarao Kogen.
We will have lessons to suit everyone from total beginners and kids through to those who want to hit the powder and trees. What is a good place for lunch or dinner at Madarao? I am glad that you asked! There are a more and more international tourists staying in Madarao that we will be opening “Aki’s Pub & Cafe ” this year. It will be serving real American style food including pizza and hamburgers. Kids are welcome of course. What do you do in the summer months? Madarao Kogen is an all year mountain resort, as the snow melts we open up for hiking, trail running and mountain biking. In fact I will start mountain biking tours from this summer. We also have a zipline which I help guide and control. How do you ski powder? You will have to book into my new ski school! We will have you skiing powder in no time!
Backcountry Tours & Ski School can be booked by website or by telephone http://naganooutdoorsports.net Tel: 090-4461-7354 Nagano Outdoor Sports
It snows a lot in Madarao….. Yes, it is one of the snowiest resorts in Japan. The peak of Mt. Madarao is only 1382m high but it is perfectly positioned to benefit the winter storms that hit Japan every year. This is the reason that there are many tree skiing courses in Madarao. I opened up Nagano Outdoor Sports backcountry guiding service to let the more adventurous experience both backcountry and tree skiing. What is your next venture? This season 2016-2017, I am starting up a dedicated international ski & snowboard school here at Madarao Kogen.
Myoko Connect
13
DAY TRIPS BY SHINKANSEN A fantastic way to spend a rest day off the ski slopes of Myoko Kogen and experience more of what Japan has to offer is to take advantage of the new Shinkansen line that opened in March 2015 and explore by rail network. The Japan Shinkansen rail network is easy to navigate, the signs and announcements are all in English, the trains are never late, the carriages are spotlessly clean. What better way to travel around Japan. Because of the speed of the Shinkansen, 260km per hour, you can set off from Myoko in the morning and be back for dinner or later if required. We have put together some trips that you might be interested in. An added bonus is that these trips are covered by Japan Rail Pass holders.
TOKYO DISNEY RESORT The Magic Kingdoms of Disneyland and Disney Sea are very doable on a day trip. The transfer from Tokyo is only 15 minutes by local train. Once you are there you will be having so much fun that no doubt the time will fly by, though do keep an eye on the time to make the train back to Myoko.
KANAZAWA
There are quite a few places around Japan that are called “Little Kyoto” and though each of them has a long history, the scenery, atmosphere similar to Kyoto, or traditional culture, the most famous is Kananzawa located in Ishikawa Prefecture, just an hour from Joetsu Myoko Station. Enjoy everthing from the large castle to the Samurai quarters to the Geisha area as well as the beautiful Kenrokuen Gardens. Combine this with super local fresh seafood then no doubt Kanazawa will be on every ones list of the place to visit for a day trip or even longer. It is an ideal location to visit during or after your trip to the snow, instead of the touristy and sometimes overcrowded cities of Tokyo or Kyoto. Check out pages 4243 of this magazine.
TOKYO CITY
KARUIZAWA
Pack your credit cards and enjoy one of Japan’s favorite pastimes; shopping! The Karuizawa Shopping Plaza is home to over 200 outlet stores. The Shinkansen stops right at the entrance and it’s only one hour from Joetsu Myoko Station.
14
Myoko Connect
Japan’s sprawling capital metropolis has so much to do and see that we could probably fill this magazine with them. A must is taking a glimpse into history with a visit to the Imperial Palace and its many beautiful shrines. Some more favorites are the electronic paradise of Akihabara and the fashionable districts of Ginza, Shinjuku and Shibuya. Teenagers will love the Harajuku area, the hub of youth fashion in Japan, if not the world. For those who are interested in picking up some snow sport gear then a trip to the discount area of Kanda with all its sports stores can make the trip to Tokyo very worthwhile.
ONSEN TIME
Getting naked, hot and wet with a bunch of total strangers is perhaps the most quintessentially Japanese thing to do. There are several onsen (natural thermal hot springs) scattered the length of the Hakuba Valley. The mineral content of almost every onsen in Hakuba is slightly different, and many onsens use the healing effects of their particular mineral mix in their marketing. A trip to Myoko is not complete without a trip to the onsen.
HOW TO ONSEN Step 1 Undress slowly and calmly, taking care to fold your clothes and place them neatly in the basket or locker provided. Step 2 Remove your towel from its packaging - it will probably be no bigger than a handkerchief. This towel is meant to hide your genitals, to rub a soapy foam on your body, or to cool your forehead in the hot bath. Step 3 Wash and rinse before you enter the bath - this is done while kneeling or seated on a small stool, and bowls are provided. This is one of the most important steps - bathing without first washing yourself is considered the height of rudeness. Scrub like you’ve never scrubbed before.
16
Myoko Connect
Step 4 Enter the bath slowly and gradually, especially if you are in a large group. Upon entering the water, you may loudly exclaim your pleasure, and discuss its quality. You will then slowly relax as the hot bath washes over you. Step 5 After a dip, you can then exit the bath to scrub your body (or someone else’s) once more, until you reach a boiled red or purple color. You may then reenter the bath, and repeat. Step 6 In Japan, one popular post-bath custom is to drink milk, with many onsen selling it. Drinking alcohol immediately after bathing is not recommended (although it doesn’t stop many from doing so); it will dehydrate your body even further.
JAPANESE FOOD One ot the main attractions to visiting Japan is of course tryng out the diffrents dishes that are available for hungry tourists. Be it an on mountain restaurant, Izayaya or dining in one of the top restaurants.
18
Myoko Connect
Sushi
with grated daikon or white raddish.
The most popular Japanese food, it is basically made of white rice prepared in sushi vinegar then topped or combined with fresh or raw ingredients such as seafood, fruits and vegetables. There are different kinds of sushi preparations.
Unagi Eel grilled and basted with a heavy soy sauce marinade. Okonomiyaki – pancakes made of savory ingredients such as meats and vegetables.
Nigiri Rice is formed into a ball or a chunk and topped with fresh seafood.
Gyoza Originally from China, these are dumplings filled with ground pork and vegetables and served with a dippingsauce of soy sauce and vinegar.
Norimaki Rice, fresh seafood and vegetables all rolled up in sheets of dried seaweed called nori with the use of a bamboo mat. These are then cut up into small, bite-sized pieces. Temaki Basically the same as norimaki, but instead of being rolled in a cylindrical shape, the rice and all the other ingredients are rolled into a cone shape. Chirashi The rice is not pressed into any shape or form here, but just laid out in a bowl and all the seafood, vegetables and other ingredients are spread out on top. Inari Sushi rice is made as a filling for small deep fried tofu bags or aburaage.
Sashimi
Another popular Japanese fare, it consists of thinly sliced raw seafood. Freshness is the key in serving sashimi because it is not served with anything else except a dipping sauce made of soy sauce and wasabi or horseradish paste, and some slivers of fresh vegetables. The common types of sashimi are as follows: Maguro – Tuna Ebi – Prawn Tako – Octopus Toro – Fatty Tuna
Ika – Squid Saba – Mackaerel Sake – Salmon Uni – Sea Urchin
Yakimono
A way of preparing dishes by pan-frying or grilling. Some popular examples are: Kushiyaki – the Japanese version of kebabs, these are grilled skewers of seafood or meats and vegetables. Yakitori Pieces of chicken, and other chicken parts barbecued on a stick. Takoyaki A common street food in Japan, this is octopus mixed in a batter dumpling and friend in spherical griddles. Yakizakana Fish grilled in open flame and served
Donburi
Literally means bowl, it is a complete meal of steaming hot white rice in a big bowl topped with various dishes, such as beef, pork or seafoods. The toppings would be cooked in different ways such as the following: Oyakodon “Mother and Child” bowl. This is basically a tandem of chicken and egg topping. A special variation of this would be fresh salmon and roe. Gyudon Beef donburi. The beef is braised or stewed in a mixture of soy sauce and onions and topped with raw egg. Katsudon Pork cutlet donburi. Deep fried pork cutlets are topped with egg and young onion leaves. Tendon Tempura donburi. Lightly battered pieces of seafood and vegetables are deep fried and dipped in a mixture of soy sauce and miso. Tekkadon Tuna donburi. Chunks of raw tuna are served with rice and strips of nori seaweed. Unadon Eel donburi. Slices of eel are grilled and basted in a thick soy sauce mixture.
Nabe
Nabe is a style of hot-pot cooking. The dishes are usually prepared at the table. Expect to find plenty of vegetables with mixed with seafood or meat. Chanko-Nabe The traditaonal food of Sumo wrestlers as part of their weight gain diet. Very rich in protein it goes very well with beer and rice. Shabu-Shabu Various ingredients such as meats, seafood and vegetables are all cooked in one hot pot of soup or stock base right on the diner’s table. The one-dish meal
is served with various dipping sauces and a bowl of rice. Sukiyaki Beef sliced in thin slivers is cooked with leafy vegetables in a mixture of mirin, dashi, sugar and sake. This is then cooked right on the table and served with raw egg that serves as the dipping sauce.
Noodles
Noodle dishes have mainly been imported from China and chagned to suit theJpanese palate. Soba Thin buckwheat noodles, also served in a soup base and topped with other ingredients .They can be served either hot or cold Yakisoba Fried Japanese noodles. Soba noodles are stir-fried together with various kinds of meats, seafood and vegetables and soy sauce. Ramen An import from China, this Japanese noodle dish is based on a thin, spaghetti-like noodle served in a hot soup base and with different kinds of toppings.
Yoshoku
Yoshoku is the name given to dishes influenced by Western styles of cooking but developed independently in Japan. Most restaurants provide both chopsticks and cutlery, so you can choose which works best for you. Guratan (gratin) Fillings are topped with cheese and a white sauce made from milk, butter, and flour, which is then baked in an oven. Chicken and seafood, such as crab and shrimp, are popular fillings. Korokke Mashed potatoes mixed with sautéed diced onion and ground beef, shaped into a ball, coated in breadcrumbs, and fried. Believed to come from the European “croquette.” Eaten with ketchup or Worcestershire sauce. Hambagu (Hamburg steak) Ground beef or pork is mixed together with sautéed diced onion, breadcrumbs, egg, and seasoning, shaped into a ball, and cooked. Hambagu come with many toppings, such as a light sauce made from grated daikon radish and soy sauce, a demi-glace sauce, or simply topped with cheese. Kare Raisu Curry rice, an import from the United Kingdom in the 19th century but is now a popular fare for Japanese skiers. Myoko Connect
19
Information Center
The tourist information is located close by to Myoko Kogen Station (MAP G-2). Here you can pick up pamphlets on what to see and do in Myoko Kogen. www.myoko.tv
Taxis
Myoko Kogen is served by local taxi companies and are usually parked up at the main Myoko Kogen Sation. There are not many taxis in Myoko so please try to reserve a taxi at least 30 minutes before your departure. Ask your accommodation to book for you as most drivers do not speak English. Kogen Taxi Service 0255-86-3141
Ski Shuttle Buses
Ski Shuttle Buses are available and service the resorts. All buses have different fares. Please check the timetable in this magazine.
COMMUNICATIONS Telephones
Cell phones need to be 3G to work in Japan. Domestic calls can be made from the green public phones. You need to use the grey public phones for International calls.
Money
ATMs which take international cards are only available at post offices and 7-11 convenienice stores. There is a 7-11 located down the valley (Map G-3)
Post Offices
There is a post office in Akakura Onsen(Map D-7) as well as a post office in Myoko (Map F-2) near to the train station. Both have international ATMs that accept most international issued credit cards. ATM operating hours are 9am - 7pm.
ONWARD TRAVEL Airport Shuttles
Nagano Snow Shuttle (0261-75-5360) offer a reliable direct bus to both Narita and Haneda Aiports. Buses leave four times daily from Akakura Bus Stop at 08:45, 10:45, 15:45 and 17:45. Bookings can be made online or through your accommodation. www.naganosnowshuttle.com
Supermarkets
There is a Yamazaki convenience store in Akakura Onsen which sells basic food and supplies. There is Dai-Ichi Supermarket located near to Myoko Kogen Station with a much larger choice.
Shopping MEDICAL SERVICES Clinic
Kenritsu Myoko Hospital 0255-86-2003 is located near to the train station (Map F-2). It is a relatively small hospital and not all the staff speak English. We recommend going with an accommodation staff member who will be able to translate for you
Pharmacy
Basic medicine, headache & muscle pain relief can be bought over the counter at Myoko Pharmacy in Akakura Onsen.
20
Myoko Connect
If it is souvenirs and gifts that you are after then Akakura Onsen has a few gift stores where you can pick up knick knacks that will remind you of your holiday in Myoko, such as mugs, magnets, ornaments and more. A few more gift shops are located near to the train station. One popular choice for a souvenir is Japanese sake. Be warned that some of the bottles are big! Even though Myoko Kogen is a ski resort, the ski stores focus more on rental equipment rather than sales, though most will carry accessories such as hats, gloves and goggles. Check out Spicy Rentals for basic backcountry gear.
22
Myoko Connect
HOTEL SILVERHORN
Myoko Connect
23
24
Myoko Connect
MYOKO SUGINOHARA SKI AREA Myoko's Highest Resort
The southernmost of the four but we like to come down a resorts on Mount Myoko, Sugi- bit quicker than that. nohara reaches up the highest, Orientation at Suginohara meaning the lowest is simple, with the temperatures resort lying on to keep that Lifts 5 two sides of a powder Courses 16 large ravine. fluffy. The The gonr e s o r t ’s Elevation 720m dola base 1 , 1 24 Beginner 40 is on the meters Suginohara of verIntermediate 40 zone, lookt i c a l Advanced 20 ers’ right, place located up Longest course 8500m it secand away ond only www.princehotels/en/ski/myoko from the main to Kagura 0255-86-6211 Suginosawa Onamong Japsen accommodaanese ski areas. tion area. Once off the A meandering 8.5 km course from the top is also one gondola at 1500m, a short of the longest in the country, green run takes you across
the top of the ravine to the Mitahara zone on lookers’ left. Here, a covered quad extends up to the steepest runs off the resort top at 1800m. Alternatively, you can stay for the snow park on skiers’ extreme right. Two of the longest green pistes in Japan run down both
the Suginohara and Mitahara sides. Advanced riders and powder hounds should head for the runs off the top lift, the hooded Mitahara No. 3 Quad, which provides some great tree skiing off the marked trails. The snowpark on the Mitahara side has a variety of rails and butter boxes. The table top jumps are usually well maintained and range from the small to the very large. Much of Suginohara faces south, so the park can offer the most fun when the sun is baking the snow. Alongside the snow park run some mellow tree lines provide a good introduction to powder riding once the snow has settled. They may be a struggle on deeper days. Suginohara is part of the Prince Hotels group who offer various family-friendly services, most notably free lift tickets for under 12s. In recent years, they have offered free rental for kids on weekdays and the third Sunday of the month, and various events like free rides on a snowcat or snowmobile. Suginohara is about 15 minutes’ drive from Myoko or a little longer from the Akakura Onsen area. There is a shuttle bus from the post office at Akakura Onsen that takes thirty to forty minutes.
Myoko Connect
27
IKENOTAIRA SKI AREA Snow For Everyone!
The middle of the resorts on Mount Myoko, Iketaira follows the classic Myoko model. That is, tons of snow, steepest and best views at the top, gentle and wide at the bottom, onsens at the base. What
may attract you here are the extensive park, the large kids’ area, the lower numbers you may find here compared to the better-known Myoko resorts at peak times, and the craft brewery located near
the base. Access from the base area is by a pair (!) lift that gets you up most of the resort’s 640 meters of vertical. A short ride down the
“Ikeno City”, the largest snow park in Myoko. The upper section usually has three Lifts 6 big
Courses 11
Elevation 728m Beginner 35 Intermediate 45 Advanced 20 wide run to skier ’s right takes you to the hooded quad that heads to the resort top at 1400m. An old course remains higher up, but is no longer lift served. Head to skiers’ right from the top for the easiest trees to hit and the two short sections that serve as the resort’s only advanced runs. A separate pair lift gives access to this part of the upper mountain. Skiers’ left from the top takes you back to the main wide run that is flanked by
28
Myoko Connect
Longest course 4000m www.ikenotaira.net
0255-86-2370
c o n secutive tabletops where you can showcase your skills to the folks riding the quad. The lower section of the park is more focused on jibbing with all manner of boxes and curved rails. If that’s not enough, there is also the “Happy Park”, a separate beginner park with smaller items on skiers’ far right toward the bottom of the resort. For those with little ones, there is a large play area at the base with a magic carpet, a fenced-off sledging area, and a big slide in the shape of “Ikebei”, the resort’s mascot. Entry is free, but it’s only open on weekends. Ikenotaira does some fantastic discounted deals on season passes, lift ticket/meal coupon combinations, and accommodation packs for short-term visitors. The information is in Japanese, so ask at your accommodation or get someone to help you read the resort website. Last but not least, the beer! About 300m from the base you’ll find the Myoko Kogen Beer Hall. They have a huge buffet with crab, sushi, and barbecued lamb, with a very reasonable all-you-can-drink option for their Weizen, Pilsner and Dark Lager brewed onsite. Note that advanced reservations are required
AKAKURA KANKO RESORT SKI AREA Steep & Deep
With about 760m of vertical, Akakura Kanko (often shortened to “Akakan”) is the second biggest resort in Myoko. The resort is centered on the Akakura Resort
Hotel, originally built in 1937 as one of Japan’s first European-style resort hotels. The area shares the eastern flank of Mount Myoko with its smaller neighbour,
Lifts 7 Courses 10 Elevation 730m Beginner 30 Intermediate 50 Advanced 20 Longest course 4500m www.akr-ski.com
0255-87-2503
Akakura Onsen Ski Resort, which can be ridden on the same ticket for a few hundred yen extra. Those wanting to play numbers will be disappointed with Akakan; the resort sports a gondola and only six more lifts. Bizarrely, the trail map numbers them as “15” to “21”, we assume a relic of the past when Akakan and Akakura Onsen were combined and higher lifts also operated on the Tsubame Onsen side. However, the new Akakan is lean and still mean. It snows just as much and there is plenty of terrain where you can enjoy it. Orientation at Akakan is simple. The gondola takes you up from a huge carpark along the gentle slopes at the resort base, past the red-roofed Akakura Resort Hotel, and then over steeper forested slopes to upper mountain. From there, Lift #20 serves the higher “Maeyama” runs, along with some excellent offpiste, much of which is left free from ropes and fences. Powderhounds should also find plenty of amusement in the Champion area off Lift #16 and in runs down toward the Akakura Onsen area. Beginners and families should note that in addition to the gondola, a number of Akakan’s lifts are full hooded to keep you out of the wind and snow. While there only two real beginner runs, one below the hotel and another alongside Lift #15 which links to Akakura Onsen, both pistes are very wide. Intermediates can enjoy the whole resort, with views of Lake Nojiri to get the camera out for higher up and plenty of opportunities to try powder riding. For anyone riding on the joint resort ticket, note that it’s quite a convoluted route back to Akakan from the far side of Akakura Onsen. Leave yourself plenty of time at the end of the day.
30
Myoko Connect
AKAKURA ONSEN SKI AREA
AKAKURA ONSEN SKI AREA Myoko's Only Night Skiing Area
Imagine you’re Onsen somewhat bemaking an anlies its reputation Lifts 14 ime cartoon for being “small” set in a with 550 meCourses 17 typical ters of verElevation 550m Japatical. As n e s e mentioned Beginner 50 ski reabove, the Intermediate 30 sort. It terrain is snows more reAdvanced 20 like cralaxed than Longest course 3000m zy. At the www.akakura-ski.com bottom is a small, 0255-87-2125 sleepy town with family-run lodges and lots of onsen hot springs. The local people are friendly but spend half their time digging themselves out or driving around with two feet of snow on their car. As typical, the resort is not so big, not so steep, but there are plenty of places to play in powder if you care to look. Groups of school kids and old timers in 1980s ski wear abound. Apres ski is mainly just some great food, a couple of beers or cups of sake, and a soak in the onsen. What I have just described is Akakura Onsen.
challenging, with a firm bias toward families, intermediates, and beginners who are served by courses with easy, consistent gradients and plenty of places to stop and rest or have a bite to eat. However, advanced riders will find some steeper stuff higher up, with the Maruyama “Wall” famously hitting 38 degrees.
Though mostly east-facing, the resort has some north-facing runs that keep good snow when the sun is baking the rest of Akakura. Akakura Onsen has the only night skiing available in Myoko, in a limited area where they usually set up some park features.
The slopes at Akakura Onsen rise up the slopes of Maruyama, a foothill on the north-east flank of Mount Myoko. The lifts have a complex history being operated first in groups, then as part of a combined resort with neighboring Akakura Kanko, and finally now as Akakura Onsen. The two resorts made a clean break for a couple of years, but they’ve started selling joint tickets once again. Reunited, and it feels so good! To ride both, buy a ticket for the “Myoko Akakura Snow Area”. The effective boundary with Akakura Kanko resort is the winding Elegance course that starts at the top of the “Yodel Number 1” triple lift. Go to skiers’ right from there and you’ll need the joint ticket to get back. Though the smaller of the neighbouring areas, Akakura
Myoko Connect
33
SEKI ONSEN SKI AREA
Where Powder Dreams Come True
With only two lifts, one a somewhat rickety-looking single chair, the easiest thing to say is that Seki Onsen is not for everyone. The resort has its fans though, and they are devotees to powder. Though a couple of kilometers north of the Akakan/Akakura Onsen resorts, Seki pulls in powder unseen in other parts of Myoko. Japan’s mountains are known for microclimates, and Seki’s is one of the strongest. It feels strange writing about the equivalent of a New Zealand club field in ordinary terms, but yes, there are two lifts, a double and a pair. They take you up about 300m in total from the base. The upper of the lifts is a single chair strung only a couple of meters above the snow which can need digging out on big days. This being Japan, paying customers can be seen helping the staff to get things going in the morning (!) What courses there are aren’t groomed as far as we have seen, and they aren’t really somewhere any fun-seeking parents might want to leave the kids while they head off for some thrills. What Seki is about is the
large treed area that leads from skiers’ right at the top. It heads down the front of the hill via a number of gullies back to the bottom lift. What do you get? About 200 to 250m of pretty steep and deep, with various microfeatures y o u should
Lifts 2 Courses 4 Elevation 310m Beginner 15 Intermediate 60 Advanced 25 Longest course 1500m www.sekionsen.com
0255-82-2316 be able fairly easily.
to find
Much longer runs are available above the resort for those prepared to hike, but should not be attempted without ava-
lanche safety equipment (transceiver, probe, and shovel) and the knowledge of how to use them. The area’s huge snowfall, relatively high swings in temperature, and proclivity to microclimates should also be considered along with recent weather in any safety assessments. Travel in groups and proceed with caution. In keeping with the general vibe, the locals set up a small snow park at the bottom of the hill and often hang out there. Though not on the hill itself there are a number of restaurants and cafes in Seki Onsen village below, but some only seem to open at the weekend. To get to Seki Onsen either ask your accommodation if they drop off or get the tour bus from that leaves at 8:30am from Akakura. The cost is 5,500yen for return transportation, lunch & drink service and includes a lift ticket. Call 0255-82-2316 or email mail@sekionsen for bookings.
Myoko Connect
35
MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT Lying right on the border between Niigata and Nagano, Madarao shares the huge snowfall of nearby Nozawa Onsen and Myoko, a natural bounty that the resort is doing its best to share with its powder-hungry visitors. With a modest 440 meters of total vert, Madarao may be overlooked by those looking at that number alone. However, the resort base lies close to what would be mid-mountain at Nozawa Onsen, meaning that the upper slopes lie at a similar altitude as over at Nozawa. It is at upper mountain where Madarao’s not-sowell-known goods lie, gladed runs that unashamedly go by names like “Powder Wave”, “Powder Theater” and “Crystal Bowl”. In these areas, the
36
Myoko Connect
Mad About Madarao
woods have been thinned to the lift. Madarao tell us that produce open-spaced tree 60% of the resort goes ungruns where you can let rip roomed, so get there early enough and there will without coming too be plenty of powclose to the loLifts 14 der on piste cal vegetation. too. True to their Courses 28 n a m e s , Elevation 440m Even if Powder y o u ’ r e Wave I Beginner 30 h a p py and II ofIntermediate 30 to stay fer unon the dulating Advanced 40 groomed, terrain that Longest course 2500m the top of will launch www.madarao.jp/ski Madarao ofyou up and 0269-64-3214 fers a 360-dethen give you gree panoramic the softest of landview where you can ings, on Power Wave II for all of 1500 meters. Powder see Mt. Myoko to the north Theater meanwhile gives you and Hakuba and the Kita Alps the chance to throw up some range to the west. The run to spray and put on a show for skier’s left from the top offers the watching audience on courses down to Madarao’s
neighbor, Tangram Ski Circus, whose lifts can also be ridden if you buy the joint lift pass. This joint ticket also makes things easier to ride the powder runs on the lookers’ right side of Madarao. If you head down to Tangram, it’s one of the few places in Nagano/Niigata where you can enjoy snowmobiling. Along with some mini-sleds that can be ridden on short courses by kids from just five years old, Tangram also offers the Yamaha snowmobiling license program. It only takes an hour and is valid throughout Japan. Once you’re licensed, they will let you go out on the longer 20km tours that head out of the resort on 250cc sleds. Definitely something to try on a bluebird day.
OUT OF BOU
Explore the Backcoun
38
Myoko Connect
UNDS
ntry Safely “Dropping!” he yelled out as the camera reels rolled into action, the heli hovered above and the perfect line opened up below him. Four or five massive turns, some sluff management and then straight-line-it out the bottom. Smiles and cheers all around, all in a days work for big mountain freerider right. Yeah they make it look so easy, and it makes us all want to do it like them.
The allure of the the most epic lines and the freedom of fresh powder fields calls to pretty anyone who has spent any time on a snowboard or skis. Blazing your own trail and making your turns off a face is what off-piste skiing is all about. Accessing the backcountry terrain has also seen a real gain in popularity with split-boards, great touring skis and many companies flaunting other backcountry specific gear. However, having the ambition and ability to get into the backcountry does not always equate to the best choice for your longevity on this planet. Lots of snow = awesome, steep slopes = great terrain, put them together and you don’t always get the sweetest outcome. The snow slides of the mountain, you are in the way, end of story. In most cases, it is the skier or rider that triggers the slide that takes them or others out and the avalanche doesn’t care if you are a hot shit skier or not.
Myoko Connect
39
Professional Guiding and Instructing Hakuba, Nagano, Japan
Supported by:
Those who duck the posted ropes, ignore signs or venture outside of ski area boundaries should know that each year people die in Hakuba doing exactly the same thing. It is easy to get in over your head very easily and very quickly, but even with a small amount of knowledge and a healthy respect for these mountains, you can make wise decisions to reduce potential risks. The following questions and recommendations are a brief run down of what off-piste enthusiasts should be aware of prior to heading out. Pre-trip Do you have proper training and experience to go outside of controlled resort areas? Do you know your route? Have a map & compass? Have an alternate route plan? Have you checked the weather for today, as well as the weather over the past week? Have you checked recent avalanche bulletins and reports? Do you understand them? Does your group have an experienced “leader” who can make informed decisions to ensure your group’s safety in and out of the backcountry? Do you have the appropriate gear for self-rescue? Is it in working condition? Have you informed someone of your planned route, back-up route and return time? Do you know emergency contact numbers in case of an accident? Do you have insurance? Backcountry rescues are expensive! Gear: Do all members of your party have appropriate winter clothing? Do all members of your party have the essential avalanche transceiver (beacon), probe and shovel? More importantly do they know how to use them in a rescue situation? Do you have a first-aid kit? Rescue gear? Cell phone? Radio? Emergency overnight gear? Do you have enough food and water? Do you have a method of ascending? Ski touring bindings & skins/snowshoes/split-board During Trip If you are departing via a ski resort, did you fill out a trip route card? What is the weather doing now? Will this affect the stability of your intended route? Is everyone in your group comfortable with the terrain your route takes you into? Are you making safe and informed route decisions for your party? Are there other parties in the area? Will your route affect them? Will their route affect you? Who is above you/below you? Are there signs of recent avalanche activity? Whoomphing? Shooting cracks? Debris? Are you constantly reassessing the snow stability and your group’s ability?
One Day Tour ￥12,000 per person Half Day Tour ￥ 8,000 per person Private Tour ￥60,000 Max 5 persons Pole Rental ￥ 1,000
If you are unsure about the snow stability, stay to simple terrain away from avalanche start zones and run out zones and do not exceed your experience or ability! If you are unsure about the terrain it’s best to get a guide to take you safely out in the backcountry and enrolling an avalanche safety course is also a first step in acquiring knowledge that will invariably help you survive. Slide safe out there! James Robb is a backcountry guide with Evergreen Outdoor Center
naganooutdoorsports.net naganooutdoorsports@gmail.com
Myoko Connect
41
Narita Airport & Tokyo Departing 08:45, 10:45, 15:45 and 17:45 Haneda Airport Airport Haneda & Tokyo Tokyo & Departing Departing 12:45 12:45 Four times daily from Myoko Kogen to Narita Airport and Tokyo Daily from Myo Myoko Kogen y ko yo k Ko K gen to Haneda Airport Twice daily Resort Shuttles to Shiga Kogen, Nozawa Onsen, and Hakuba
Hakuba, Hakuba, Shiga Kogen, Kogen, Shiga Nozawa Onsen Onsen Nozawa Shuttles Shuttles Departing at at Departing 10:45 & & 15:45 15:45 10:45
Book Online at: www.naganosnowshuttle.com
HAKUBA
SHIGA KOGEN
NOZAWA ONSEN
TOKYO /NARITA AIRPORT HANEDA AIRPORT
11500 yen 5900 yen
MYOKO KOGEN
Dec 17, 2016 Mar 12, 2017