Professional Hairdresser April 2024 x Aston and Fincher

...All shookup(do)!

10

18

42

CONTENTS

52

REGULARS

7FIRST WORD

8HEADLINES

10HOW TO FAIL

Phil Smith interviews

Robert Masciave

12EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE

Errol Douglas MBE interviews

Desmond Murray

18COLOUR MEMO

20STYLE MEMO

21SUSTAINABLE MEMO 62BOOKED..!

Luke Benson’s diary

64VISIT

Hobs Hair & Nail Bar

665 MINUTES WITH…

Tracey Ann Smith

BUSINESS

62

24MIRROR MIRROR ON THE SCREEN

With Ben Lifton

25A GOOD HEAD FOR BUSINESS

With Natasha Grossman of HOB Salons

26NEED TO KNOW TRICHO

With Mark Blake

30FREELANCE FORUM

With Ruth Lundstrom, Lacey Hunter-Felton and Sheila Abrahams

SPECIAL

22THE APPRENTICE

Exploring the industry’s rising stars

38FROM SCREEN TO SALON

Trending looks on the big and small screens

PORTFOLIO

34INDOLA

42GIUSEPPE MANCO

46GOLDSWORTHY’S

64

52EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY

PRODUCTS

58SHOP THE DROP!

Latest products

61COLOUR CLOSE-UP

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

FROM SCREEN TO GREEN

Red carpets are a breeding ground for hair trends. Already this year we are seeing a flirtatious nod to the memorable ‘dos’ of past decades, with celebrities re-inventing some iconic retro styles.

Think Priscilla’s bouffant, Amy Winehouse’s signature beehive and who can forget Miley Cyrus’ Barbarella meets a 70s Raquel Welch mob wife aesthetic at The Grammys; this blend of attitude and allure is definitely having a renaissance.

With the big and small screens (anyone fancy a traitor-esque fringe?) garnering such prolific hair attention, it’s intriguing to discover what’s trickling down to salons – turn to page 38 to find out more.

Talking of style, I’m sure you’ve noticed that Pro Hair has also undergone a slight change. Content-wise, the formula is still the same –to inform, inspire, educate and entertain you every month –but the magazine is now reaching even more of you as we deliver a greater number of copies to the industry.

It was therefore imperative to consider our green credentials. I am proud to say that Pro Hair is now the industry’s MOST environmentally friendly title –no trees have been harmed in the making of this magazine! It is printed on the most environmentally friendly paper, based on 100%, de-inked UK printed waste.

Enjoy the read!

Editorial Director

Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Assistant Editor

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

Designer

Donna Booth

Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell

Commercial Manager

Laura Jowsey ljowsey@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF.

Editorial & Sales Enquiries

Phone: 01923 237799

24,495 • July 22 –June 23

HEADLINES

SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL ANNOUNCES 2024 CULT TEAM

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT JOINS FORCES SALON COLLECTIVE

Authentic Beauty Concept announces its partnership with Green Salon Collective, aiming to raise the standards of sustainability across the hairdressing and salon business sector. This collaboration marks a significant milestone for Authentic Beauty Concept, reinforcing its commitment to environmental consciousness.

A group of six inspiring and creative hairdressers have been crowned as the new 2024 Sebastian CULT Team, where they will represent Sebastian live on stage and spend valuable time with some leading industry mentors. The team are: Adam Loughnane-Hill (Adam Loughnane-Hill), Bekki Delehedy (Dot Hair), Nikki Rundell (Rita Rusk International), Tina Whitehead (Hairitage86), Ayesha Caunt-Buonocore (Hairven), Melissa Clements (Francesco Group).

Together, the two brands will curate a series of events through 2024 to inspire salon practices and change the industry’s approach to sustainability.

ADECADE OF HAIR DOS

The Hair Surgery in Stourbridge is celebrating ten years in business. Owner and Director, Tim Scott-Wright, opened The Hair Surgery in 2014, aptly named after the former doctor’s surgery in the same location. A decade later, with several industry and regional hairdressing awards to the salon’s name, Tim has created a true hub of the community with clients at the heart of the business.

REVLONSOARS WITH ANNUAL CONFERENCE AND AWARDS

Revlon Professional recently brought together its dynamic team at its Annual Conference and Awards. Celebrating success stories from 2023 and business objectives for 2024, attendees were welcomed by Matt Horder, General Manager of Revlon Professional UK & Ireland, before a glamorous evening of networking, celebration and awards. The event also marked the culmination of the remarkable journey from the Revlon Professional Visionaries Team, who gathered together for their final showcase.

ZEN IS TEN!

Zen Luxury Extensions celebrates its 10th anniversary. Launched in 2014, the brand has driven new innovation both in hair extension products, application systems, aftercare products, accessories and training. Looking to the future, Johnny Yip, Zen MD, says: ‘We look forward with excitement and enthusiasm to not only this year but the next ten years and beyond.’

VICTORIOUS VISIONARIES

18 finalists recently gathered at the Westrow Academy in Leeds to compete for a place in the much-coveted Revlon Professional Visionaries Team 2024. The year-long mentorship programme, directed by Revlon’s Global Ambassador Mark Leeson, gives budding stylists the chance to supercharge their skillset. With opportunities ranging from photoshoots and shows to cutting courses and social media workshops, this programme is considered a fast-track to a stellar hair career. The Visionaries Team for 2024 is: Sophie Cookson (Gray’s Salon), Taylor Borthwick (Myka), Stephanie Dwyer (Teresa Weller Hair Art) and Hollie Varney (Salon Couture).

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

INAUGURAL AWARDS FOR SALON SERVICES

Hair and beauty professionals, expert judges, influencers and press recently gathered to celebrate the very first Salon Services Professional Hair & Beauty Awards. Raising a glass to today’s most-loved products and brands, the Awards were hosted by beauty entrepreneur and journalist, Ateh Jewel, who brought her effervescent energy and passion for the industry to the stage.

CHRIS DOYLE: AMBASSADOR FOR ALFAPARF MILANO PROFESSIONAL

ALFAPARF Milano Professional announces Chris Doyle, owner of InstaHair and Co in Belfast, as a Digital Advocate and Ambassador. With an enthusiasm for mentoring and educating, Chris has become known as an expert colour educator with a specialism in colour melt techniques.

JACK MEAD AND LYDIA WOLFE: COLOUR AMBASSADORS FOR YUV

yuv is delighted to announce the appointment of Lydia Wolfe and Jack Mead as its new Colour Ambassadors. Co-owners of Jack and the Wolfe, this is the first salon to exclusively use yuv colour worldwide. Lydia and Jack are set to bring their unparalleled expertise and creative approach to the brand’s professional hair colouring.

NATASHA GROSSMAN: CEO OF HOB SALONS

HOB Salons has announced Natasha Grossman as the new CEO of the award-winning 17-salon group. With a distinguished career in business, Natasha has moved through the ranks within the company over the last 19 years and is now set to lead HOB Salons into a new era of growth and innovation. She says: “I’m delighted to be working alongside Akin, Clive and Paul, who are an inspirational trio and have been so willing to adapt to evolution and change.”

REBECCA DICKENSON: AMBASSADOR FOR RAPTURE HAIR EXTENSIONS

Rapture Hair Extensions is thrilled to announce Rebecca Dickenson as its new ambassador. With a deep passion for transforming hair into works of art, Rebecca’s creativity and precision perfectly aligns with the brand’s values. In her new role, she will be sharing her behind-the-scenes insights into the world of hair makeovers.

PHIL SMITH TALKS ONE-ON-ONE TO SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT THE PIVOTAL MOMENTS IN BUSINESS THAT HAVE MADE THEM STRONGER. FROM CAREER SETBACKS TO CRISES OF CONFIDENCE, PHIL FINDS OUT THE THINGS THAT HAVE GONE ‘WRONG’ AND THE LESSONS THESE SETBACKS HAVE TAUGHT HIS GUESTS ABOUT HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT.

TO FAIL HOW

THIS ISSUE, PHIL TALKS TO ROBERT MASCIAVE. KNOWN FOR BEING ONE OF HAIRDRESSING’S MOST CREATIVE AND VISIONARY ARTISTS, ROBERT CONTINUES TO PUSH BOUNDARIES IN HIS COMMERCIAL, EDITORIAL AND AVANT-GARDE WORK. NOT TO BE UNDERESTIMATED AS PURELY A BUSINESS-MINDED HAIRDRESSER, HE HAS PROVEN THAT CREATIVITY AND COMMERCIALITY CAN CO-EXIST. HERE, ROBERT TELLS PHIL HOW HIS PROUDEST INNOVATION CAME FROM A FREAK ACCIDENT AND WHY COURAGE HAS DEFINED HIS CAREER…

ROBERT, IT’S GREAT TO TALK TO YOU. I’M GOING TO BEGIN AS I ALWAYS DO AND ASK YOU WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CAREER CHALLENGE OR ‘FAILURE’ SO FAR… IN OTHER WORDS, WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST MISTAKE?

Hi Phil. So, I guess my mistake was to mix friendship and business. I’m not saying you can’t do business with a friend, but when you cross the boundary into work, you have to redefine your relationship and that friend has to be a business partner, not a friend anymore. I think the thing I’ve learned is that no matter what set up you have, get the contracts, paperwork, rules in place so that if things do go in another way – let’s say you want to sell up or redirect the business - then you don’t feel like you’re putting your friendship at risk.

IF YOU COULD START ALL OVER AGAIN IN YOUR CAREER, WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY?

I’m not sure I would do much differently because one thing I can say is that I have pursued my career with a lot of courage. You know, I left my country at 19 to come to the UK alone. I remember looking back on it, I said to myself that I would work as hard as I could and give it what I thought was my best. It’s in my nature to be quite humble and that’s a good trait to have, but business sometimes requires you to sell yourself. Looking back, maybe I should have learned to sell myself a bit more or a bit better, because what I’ve learned today is that it can all be done without arrogance.

YOU FACED A REAL LOW POINT WHEN YOU HAD AN ACCIDENT A FEW YEARS AGO. YOU CAME OFF YOUR BIKE AND HAD TO GO THROUGH THAT PROCESS OF REHABILITATION. THAT MUST HAVE BEEN TOUGH, COULD YOU TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THAT?

Okay. Yeah. So over five years ago, I came off my bicycle and broke both wrists as well as dislocating and breaking my elbow. When I had the accident –and this is the truth – I remember being on the floor waiting for an hour for the ambulance to come. During that time, I was in extreme pain and thinking, ‘ Right? Is this it? Is this the end of my hair career? ’ As I laid on the operating table, I pleaded with the surgeons, “ I’m a hairdresser, please fix me up!” For eight months after, I couldn’t use my hands. It was every hairdresser’s worst nightmare. While I was doing my rehabilitation, I realised that I’d have to rethink the way I was working, and this was when I touched on something that could help others. I used my convalescence to work on a prototype for a brand-new kind of scissors. I taught myself 3D drawing and found manufacturers to help me develop what has now become my trademark eBlade scissors. I saw the evidence for myself that there is always something good that can come from bad.

IT’S IMPRESSIVE THAT YOU USED THAT TIME IN A REALLY POSITIVE WAY, IT SAYS A LOT ABOUT YOUR CHARACTER.

Well, I am a problem solver. I will always find a way to fix things. When I teach, I try to eliminate the word failure, instead I say, ‘ let’s talk about discovery’ As I see it, failure is doing nothing. When you’re doing something – anything – you’re on a journey of discovery. Sometimes you discover things you want and sometimes you discover things you don’t want. People often call the things you don’t want failure, but I disagree. Even if you discover that the outcome of what you’ve done is something you don’t want, you’ve still learned from it.

WHAT CHARACTER TRAITS WOULD YOU SAY HARD TIMES HAVE TAUGHT YOU?

The unknown is always scary, but with a little bit of time and planning, adversity can help you gain courage. Today, whatever I am doing, I carry it out with commitment and courage. Courage has been the one trait in my career that has pushed me to explore new possibilities. When you are creative

and come up with new concepts, you have to be brave enough to face criticism and challenge perceptions. For instance, you know, showing your work to the public takes courage. That’s why I think a lot of people copy, because they find it easier. If you show something experimental that the public has never seen before, the risk is high. Many people prefer to stay in their comfort zones, but if you’re in your comfort zone, you’re not evolving. You’re not building courage at all.

HOW DOES SOMEONE CREATE SUCCESS IN THEIR CAREER – IS IT TALENT, EFFORT, MOTIVATION, LUCK?

HOW MUCH OF SUCCESS IS ABOUT BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME?

Success is a personal thing, so the first thing someone has to do is define what success means to them. Somebody else’s success is different from your success. I don’t believe in luck. Once you set your goal, you reach it by constantly challenging yourself.

The key is consistency. Learning new techniques is all very well, but being the best isn’t enough. Being the best is actually worthless if you’re not consistent in your timekeeping. Being too ‘up and down’ would be the biggest reason why people won’t succeed. To me, consistency is the key to all successes.

YOU SAY THAT SUCCESS IS DIFFERENT FOR EVERYONE, BUT WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

For me, success varies because I’m constantly setting myself different goals. My first goal was to open a salon and then it was to create a good environment for my team to work in. I’d say a lot of hairdressers learn to be ‘good’, but they don’t know how to make money with it. To be financially successful, you have to find the thresholds between quality and speed, as well as looking at how you bring value and sell yourself. My day-to-day goal is creating a place for my team where they can truly enjoy coming to work and fulfil whatever they want, artistically or financially.

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU DOUBTED YOURSELF AND HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE FEELINGS?

Doubts. It’s funny because I would say to people, ‘if you have doubts, you’d better learn to live with them, because they’re never gonna leave you. They’re gonna be there until you die’ (laughs). Unless you stop your journey of evolving, you’ll always have doubts. For me, a doubt is almost a driver. I’ve learned to work with doubts and unlock their value. When there’s doubts, there’s questions, and when there’s questions, there’s answers. Before you know it, you have a plan that has all been generated from doubt.

ARE YOU A PERSON WHO TAKES RISKS?

When I was younger, every time I was asked to push myself my head would say no, but I’ve made a deal now that I will always say yes. That’s how I’ve managed to keep challenging myself. Like I say, my career has been defined by courage, so yes, I’d say I’m a risk-taker.

WHO IS A SUCCESSFUL PERSON YOU ADMIRE AND WHAT LESSONS HAVE THEY TAUGHT YOU?

Oh, lots of people. Within the industry, it would be Anthony Mascolo, Robert Lobetta and Vidal Sassoon. Anthony for his business skills and showing the world that you can make a lot of money with hairdressing if you want to and Robert for showing that you can be a great artist. Then, of course, Vidal changed the whole course of the industry.

TOTALLY AGREE. DO YOU HAVE ANY DAILY HABITS OR A PARTICULAR MINDSET THAT YOU THINK MAKES YOU SUCCESSFUL?

I tend to hyperfocus – if you give me something I’m curious about, I will have found out every single thing about it before you know it. That’s my thing and that happens pretty much on a daily basis. I will find myself going on YouTube and wanting to watch every single thing to learn about it as much as possible. I’m curious, a bit of a nerd really. I like learning and I like discovering new things.

FINALLY, WHAT THREE PIECES OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE AT THE START OF THEIR CAREER?

1.Be patient. 2.Be consistent. 3.Be resilient.

(Honestly though, don’t underestimate hard work. It’s the only way to succeed!)

EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE

WiTH ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

Errol Douglas has made a name for himself as the ultimate all-rounder in hairdressing. With equality, diversity and inclusivity high on his agenda, we want to find out what it takes to achieve a truly inclusive salon. In this exclusive series, Errol interviews hair-industry heroes about their stance on inclusivity.

THIS ISSUE, ERROL SITS DOWN WITH DESMOND MURRAY. AS ONE OF THE MOST FAMILIAR AND LONG-STANDING FACES ON THE UK HAIR SCENE, DESMOND HAS MANAGED TO CARVE OUT A CAREER THAT HAS STAYED AS FRESH, DYNAMIC AND FORWARD-THINKING AS THE DAY HE STARTED OUT. KNOWN FOR HIS BOLD VISION AND BIG PERSONALITY, HE’S A MULTI AWARD-WINNER OF SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S BIGGEST ACCOLADES. ARGUABLY ONE OF THE FEW FELLOW TRAILBLAZERS WHO CAN CLAIM TO BE AS DIVERSE OR MULTI-DIMENSIONAL AS ERROL HIMSELF, THIS WAS A CONVERSATION NOT TO BE MISSED!

Hi DES, THANKS FOR CHATTiNG TO ME TODAY. WHEN iT COMES TO HAiR, WHAT DOES THE TERM iNCLUSiViTY MEAN TO YOU?

Hi Errol. Pleasure to be here. In my opinion, inclusivity means any human, any hair type. Simple as that.

IS THERE ENOUGH OF A SPOTLiGHT ON THESE CONVERSATiONS iN THE HAiRDRESSiNG iNDUSTRY?

Well, like you, I’ve been in this industry for an awfully long time. When I first started out, even from those early days, I said to myself, I

Garden, I was really proud to be able to look after anyone that walked through the door. No matter who you are, no matter what hair type you’ve got, no matter what colour you are, no matter what you’ve asked for, we had the knowledge and the skills to help you. It’s taken years to get to where we are now with these kinds of conversations, but that’s okay – Rome wasn’t built in a day! What matters is that we are now able to have an open debate about it. I have to say, from a personal point of view, I do like where our industry is going. I like the fact that everyone seems to be in a much better place when it comes to embracing different things in hair.

DO YOU CONSiDER YOURSELF A ‘TEXTURED HAiR SPECiALiST’? IS THAT A LABEL YOU EMBRACE?

I’m proud to say that I’ve won many awards associated with Afro and textured hair –I’m in the Hall of Fame for the Black Beauty Hair Awards as well as the BHA Afro category. I used to just get labelled as only doing a certain hair type, and I’m not taking anything away from that, but I do consider myself as someone who is able to turn his hand to every head of hair, absolutely. What’s really nice now is that I’ve won awards in all kinds of categories with a cross section of different things. I prefer people to know me as Desmond Murray ‘hairdresser’, not a ‘textured hair specialist’ or even a particular kind of cutter or colourist, just the hairdresser that does it all. To me, being pigeonholed is a dead-end street. So no, when it comes to labels, I wouldn’t say I embrace it.

WHO WERE YOUR ROLE MODELS WHEN ADVANCiNG THROUGH THE HAiR iNDUSTRY? WHO iS PROJECTiNG THE RiGHT KiND OF POSiTiVE MESSAGE ABOUT iNCLUSiViTY?

I’ve had many, many role models. I trained with a gentleman who used to work at Splinters – his name was Audley Lougheed, and he was the one that really got me into hair and showed it in a whole new light. I suppose he opened the door for me, but because I wanted to diversify beyond curly and coily hair, I used to take myself to all the hair shows on my days off. I’d sit and watch people do hair. Andrew Collinge is someone I remember seeing crystal clear at Salon International years ago doing awesome haircuts, I would then go back and practice those same haircuts at home. Other people that have inspired me are the Rusks, Anthony Mascolo, Charlie Miller, Robert Lobetta, Trevor Sorbie, Vidal Sassoon and Winston Isaacs. Back in the day, I wanted to become a hybrid of all those guys. When you take your inspiration from a range of sources, it kind of cross-pollinates and it gives you a totally different perspective to hair.

HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATiON PLAY iN THE QUEST FOR iNCLUSiViTY?

Education for me is the key. Doesn’t matter where you are in your career, you have to continue to learn or put yourself in a position where you’re always evolving. Without educating yourself, you won’t be able to grow, and without growing, you won’t be able to evolve. However, I believe formal education is just the start; it’s going to give you the foundation you need, but there’s so much more you’ll need to do to become an accomplished hairdresser. One really important philosophy I’ve learnt is: you put your focus.’ I live by that mantra.

WHAT DO YOU THiNK SALONS CAN DO TO OFFER A TRULY DiVERSE AND iNCLUSiVE SERViCE? DOES THE RESPONSiBiLiTY LiE WiTH SALON OWNERS?

The statistics on this are really shocking. How many salons in the UK do you think offer a service for curly and coily hair? It’s less than one per cent. When we estimate that in around ten years’ time the majority of people in the UK will have at least some kind of curl or coil in their hair, that statistic is a real eye-opener. My point is that – whether you like it or not – that’s what’s happening in our marketplace. There’s going to be a big shift and you’re either going to be in that shift or, if you’re not, you’re going to get left behind – it’s as simple as that.

WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAiR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT iT’S AN OUTDATED TERM?

There are two different ways of looking at this – one as a consumer and one as a professional. From a consumer point of view, the term is going to take a while to fizzle out, but for the professional, there isn’t such a thing as normal hair, no. Our understanding of hair should be far more sophisticated than that.

ARE PRODUCT COMPANiES DOiNG ENOUGH iN THE ADVANCEMENT OF iNCLUSiViTY?

Some companies have taken the lead more than others. For instance, L’Oréal has worked hard on all the terminologies by developing a hair diversity chart, which has then been influential in getting the curriculum improved in colleges to reflect more diversity. I was part of the consultation process and I shot some of the material, which I really enjoyed taking part in. I’m also proud of the work that Matrix have done in this area, and I run a signature course on curly and coily hair as their Global Artistic Director. Since then, I’d say all the other companies have kind of started to follow, and that’s got to be a good thing.

WHAT’S THE BEST TECHNiCAL TiP YOU COULD GiVE ANYONE REGARDiNG TYPE 4 HAiR?

Keratin has changed the way clients look at their hair. Whilst a lot of people used a chemical relaxer to straighten their hair before Covid, they’ve now turned to keratin straightening or embraced a more natural result. Overall, I’d say the best tip is to encourage anyone to embrace the actual texture rather than work against it. Product is the key; it’s all about knowing which combinations to use to enhance that curl. A cream and some form of gel is a great foundation – if you need more moisture, you use more cream, and if you want more hold, you use more gel!

How many salons in the UK do you think offer a service for curly and coily hair? It’s less than one per cent. When we estimate that in around ten years’ time the majority of people in the UK will have at least some

WHAT iS THE ONE THiNG EVERY HAiRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAiR?

Let’s take away this idea of textured and Afro hair and think of it as every kind of hair. I think all hairdressers should look at themselves, be true to themselves and turn their weaknesses into strengths.

ENTRIES

We invite you to enter the inaugural Pro Hair Awards 2024. This is your opportunity to be recognised for your hairdressing skills, creativity and business acumen with an easy entry process that is accessible, affordable and sustainable.

Enter NOW in three simple steps:

TELL US WHY YOU SHOULD BE THE WINNER OF YOUR CHOSEN CATEGORY.

PROVIDE THE FIVE STRONGEST IMAGES OF YOUR WORK. These can include collection images, client photos and campaign shots. We do not expect a newly shot collection, we would like a recap of your recent work. This may include any images taken from January 2023 onwards.

SUBMIT A SINGLE VIDEO, no longer than two minutes, summarising the breadth of your work and success over the past year. This could include a montage of clips from –but not limited to – hair transformations, client endorsements and backstage footage. THIS VIDEO OPPORTUNITY IS OPTIONAL.

Key Dates:

Entries Open – 1st March 2024

Entries Close – 1st June 2024

Judging – July 2024

Live Awards Final – 16th September 2024

THE CATEGORIES THE SOCIAL SIX

Professional Hairdresser of the Year

Professional Colourist of the Year

Professional Extensionist of the Year

Professional Men’s Hair Stylist of the Year

Professional Textured Hair Stylist of the Year

Professional Bridal Stylist of the Year

Professional Freelance Hairdresser of the Year

Professional Young Talent of the Year

Professional Independent Salon of the Year

Professional Group Salon of the Year

Professional Sustainable Salon of the Year

Professional Home Salon of the Year

Head Influencer of the Year

Social Educator of the Year

Shot of the Year

Colour Transformation Video of the Year

Client Consultation Video of the Year

Salon Skit of the Year

The Colour Visionary

Seung Ki Baek, Creative Colour Expert and RUSH Artistic Team Member

When it comes to creating collections and creative work, I love to use unique, out-of-the-ordinary colour inspiration and techniques. Whilst these looks are advanced and not necessarily seen as the ‘norm’, I think they will become concepts we will see more regularly in upcoming years, particularly with the advances of digital technology and AI. Allowing me to experiment and bring a new lease of life to my colour work, here are two of my latest colour concepts:

UV: With my 2020 Luminescent collection, it was all about the power of UV. I combined avant-garde styling in the form of intricate basket weaves and beautiful shapes reminiscent of deep-sea creatures with ultra-violet lighting. I then incorporated boldly placed colour to create a luminescent effect, defining the styling and enhancing the finished look.

Mixed Reality: In my latest colour collection, I wanted to showcase a mixed reality – a combination of real and virtual worlds to produce new environments where physical and digital objects co-exist. Through creating my colour placement via netting with spray colour, I was able to merge the physical and digital worlds to create a multi-sensory experience.

Although this collection also uses UV, I wanted the UV colour to be more subtle than my 2020 Luminescent collection. I was aiming for a more natural and ‘real-life’ effect to display the mixed reality approach perfectly. Colour is unlocked in a new way and taken to a new dimension.

GET THE LOOK WITH GRACE DALGLEISH

This look was part of the AW23 Essential Looks collection from Schwarzkopf Professional. ACID RIOT is all about creating a totally bespoke, personalised look in collaboration with your client. This particular colour service, ACID RINSE, shows how to create hair colour that feels self-made; it’s about using both palette and placement to transform a colour with personality by combining bold and pastel tones. Here, I used finer slices when layering the tones to create a softer feeling. For a higher impact, however, you can keep your sections big and chunky.

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IN SAFE HANDS

Offering prolonged vibrancy and colour longevity, Fabriq has launched its latest product range, Safe. The new line includes the Safe Shampoo – with a fusion of African and Amazonian botanicals to defend against environmental challenges and lock in colour vibrancy, the Safe Conditioner – with Hydrolysed Vegetable and Soy Proteins for intense softness and strength, and the Safe Mask – with the enriching properties of Corn and Rapeseed Extract to maximise colour fastness.

www.rdr.link/HAS001

VIVID AND VIBRANT!

It’s time to embrace the brights as we move forward through spring and then onto summer. Festivals are very much on the mind of many clients, especially the younger generations, so this is the perfect time to start seeding in the brights trends!

SAFY B, SAFY B’S HAIR SALON

BLONDE AMBITIONS

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Lived-in Blonde Colour Service oozes commercial appeal.

There’s a new colour line in town! Discover the bigger and better IGORA VIBRANCE from Schwarzkopf Professional,the demi-permanent colour line allowing hairdressers to do MORE for their clients. With an infinite colour palette, multiple service opportunities, flexible applications and ever-evolving techniques, IGORA VIBRANCE gives clients the freedom to experiment with vibrant colour, without the commitment.

Demonstrating how demi-permanent colouration can boost salon business with high commercial appeal, Schwarzkopf Professional has introduced the Lived-in Blonde Colour Service. Blending soft and delicate darker roots with lighter and brighter midlengths and ends, this service gives effortless dimension to the hair for a high-impact, low-maintenance colour result.

To illustrate the versatility of Lived-in Blonde, Schwarzkopf Professional has partnered with different guest Hair Artists and Ambassadors to showcase their own interpretations of this wearable colour service.

Introducing the new Schwarzkopf Global Ambassador, Sofia Vergara!

Sofia’s lived-in blonde look was crafted using IGORA ROYAL Highlift, BLONDME on the face frame and IGORA for some extra depth. Watch this space for more exciting updates on this partnership.

“As an actress, my identity is closely tied to my hair. From being a brunette in Griselda to a lived-in blonde look now, Schwarzkopf helps me to tell the story I want to tell –all while keeping my hair in impeccable shape!”

Sofia Vergara - Actress and Producer

After creating foil highlights using IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS, Shawna creates a timeless look using two shades of IGORA VIBRANCE for a subtle shadow root and extra dimension through the lengths and ends.

“I use the IGORA VIBRANCE lotion for a root tap or shadow root in a bowl application, followed by the gel activator with a bottle application for glossing any blonde – this gives the perfect lived-in blonde look.”  Shawna Russell (@hairbyshawna_russell)

Beautifully highlighting the many forms blonde can take, Maria pre-lightens a naturally dark brunette with BLONDME Premium Lightener and a balayage technique, before glossing with IGORA VIBRANCE to create the perfect ‘bronde’.

“I love using IGORA VIBRANCE! The colours, texture and the application process... it’s all incredibly fast and easy.”

Maria Roberts (@mariaroberts25)

IGORA VIBRANCE

Online & Digital:

Committed to being your Partner in Craft, these Schwarzkopf Professional collaborations will enable you to recreate multiple contemporary IGORA VIBRANCE looks step-by-step, helping you to develop new service offerings in your salon and delivering the looks that today’s clients are asking for.

All IGORA VIBRANCE product and education information can be found on the Schwarzkopf Professional website: www.schwarzkopfpro.com/vibrance www.rdr.link/HAS002

A NEED FOR SPEED!

Introducing Express Weft, an innovative new professional launch from Beauty Works. A unique hybrid method that combines the easy application of tape-in extensions with the volume of weft extensions, the collection consists of 30 of the brand’s bestselling blends in three different lengths: 16”, 18” and 20”.

2024 IS ABOUT KEEPING IT SIMPLE AND TAKING THINGS BACK TO BASICS. AS WE ENJOY SPRING, THE FOCUS SHOULD BE ON HAIR HEALTH. WE SHOULDN’T BE OVER-COMPLICATING STYLES, WE SHOULD BE GIVING OUR HAIR THE MUCH-NEEDED LOVE IT NEEDS AFTER MONTHS OF FESTIVITIES, EXCESSIVE HEAT AND PRODUCT USE. REALLY URGING CLIENTS TO LAY OFF THE HEAT AND WORK WITH THE HAIR’S NATURAL PATTERN WILL MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI, JOICO CREATIVE DIRECTOR EMEA

Why You Should Be Educated in Textured Hair in 2024 I Chris Grimley

In my opinion, no one should still be shying away from working with curly or textured hair in 2024. As an industry, we need to be able to offer services to all hair types. It’s a travesty that I personally couldn’t walk into many salons across the UK and receive a haircut and finish due to fear or lack of education! Here are just a few reasons why it is so important that you become confident working with curly and textured hair:

● Imagine taking a garment to a seamstress who says, ‘I’m sorry, I only sew cotton – I can’t work on cord or denim’ – it seems ridiculous, right! Curly and textured hair is still just hair. Take the time to work out the differences and you’ll find the hair types are no longer different; it may be a different material, but it’s a material all the same.

● The world is a huge melting pot of different people, with a very large proportion of them having some kind of curl or texture in their hair. Many hairdressers often resort to blow-drying hair straight instead of discovering other options, this isn’t necessarily the best thing for your client.

● Curly or textured hair should not be straightened when cutting. The best way to see the natural fall of hair is to see it in its natural state; curly hair should be cut when it’s curly. This will ensure that it’s taken off in the right places to maintain a beautiful shape. Remember, there are several different ways to do this, just as there are several different cutting techniques for any other hair type.

● By becoming knowledgeable about textured hair, you are demonstrating your commitment to diversity and inclusivity within our industry. This will help you to build a positive reputation as a hairdresser who respects and values all hair types, ultimately attracting a more diverse clientele.

The Express Weft can be fitted in under 20 minutes, offering a brilliant solution for those looking for instant volume. Featuring premium, 100% cuticle-retained Remy human hair and a unique weft base that mimics the natural hairline with no return hair, this new launch is designed to deliver effortlesslooking volume, natural shine and vitality.

www.rdr.link/HAS003

memo

SUSTAINABLE SALONS ARE YOU UP TO SCRATCH?

In the evolving world of haircare, sustainability is no longer a luxury but a necessity. We caught up with Easydry to find out the top five ways you can make sustainability simple and effective…

1. Assess and Improve: Audit your current practices to implement energy-efficient lighting, water-saving technologies and eco-friendly products.

2. Educate: Create a sustainability culture. Educate your team and clients, fostering transparency and trust.

3. Choose Wisely: Opt for suppliers like Easydry, who prioritise eco-friendly practices.

4. Collaborate: Partner with organisations like Green Salon Collective or Net Zero Now to further

Heavy-Duty Help

I’m so happy and grateful to be part of the one tonne club, knowing every recycled effort weighs a tonne in positive impact. Thank you to all our clients for supporting us in contributing to a greener tomorrow!

HAYLEY GIBSON-FORBES, CO-OWNER OF SJ FORBES

GO GREEN!

Demonstrating its ongoing passion for sustainability, Green Salon Collective has welcomed five member salons into its ‘one tonne’ club. These salons have made a significant contribution to the environment by recycling, reusing or repurposing over one tonne (1000 kilograms) of hair, colour tubes and salon foil instead of sending them to landfill. The commitment and dedication of these five salons to eco-friendly practices and responsible waste management play a pivotal role in reducing the industry’s waste and carbon emissions. Their combined environmental impact has saved 8,183 kilograms of waste and 2182.28 CO showcasing their determination to contribute to a greener planet.

Working with Green Salon Collective has had a huge impact on my business, and I feel so proud that we have prevented a tonne of waste going to landfill and to spread the word about recycling.

Helping lead the way to a more sustainable future, Australian professional haircare brand, evo, launches its new round packaging made from post-consumer recycled plastic. All four styling heroes are now made from 50% locally sourced post-consumer recycled plastic, not only resulting in less virgin plastic, but reducing the brand’s carbon footprint by localising production too. With an ethos of respecting people and the planet, evo has also joined forces with Plastic Bank to help prevent ocean-bound plastic from polluting waterways whilst also improving the lives of the people who collect it. For every evo retail product sold, the same amount of plastic is collected from the environment. Collection members exchange plastic at their local branch to secure lifeimproving benefits like health, work and life insurance, school supplies, meal vouchers and more. www.rdr.link/HAS005

memo

MELENIE TUDOR, OWNER OF EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY

THE APPRENTICE MAY BE A HIT ON OUR TV SCREENS, BUT IT’S NOT JUST LORD ALAN SUGAR WHO HAS GONE IN SEARCH OF HIS DREAM RECRUIT. AS THE LIFEBLOOD OF A THRIVING SALON AND THE FUTURE OF OUR INDUSTRY, HAIR APPRENTICES FULFIL A ROLE THAT CAN’T BE UNDERESTIMATED. WE SPOKE TO SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S SHINING STARS TO HEAR STORIES OF HOPE FROM THE TALENTS ENTERING THE HAIR WORLD TODAY, FINDING OUT WHAT INSPIRED THEM TO GO INTO HAIR, WHAT HAVE BEEN THEIR BIGGEST CHALLENGES AND WHAT ARE THEIR HOPES FOR THE FUTURE…

THECHLOE PORTHOUSE

@ MARK LEESON, MANSFIELD

“I messaged a few salons enquiring about a job when I was coming up to leaving school, but when I came for my interview here, I just knew this was the place I wanted to work –it looked so busy and everyone greeted me with a smile!

Every day in the salon is different; I feel like I am constantly learning even if it’s as little as doing a shampoo. Every other week we have a dedicated training night with Shaun (Hall), which I really enjoy as it gives me an insight into what running a column can be like, showing how important it is to keep on time.

My boss, Mark Leeson, is my hair hero – I love his creative work and how it always stands out differently. I also love how he has a positive attitude towards the team and all the clients, making the salon a really nice environment to work in.

Advice I would give to someone wanting to go into hairdressing would be to ignore the stereotypes. Hairdressing isn’t an easy job and it’s not all about cutting hair; you need to prove and show your passion and creativity.”

Rhea O’Brien

@ Smith England, Salisbury

“I love the fact that Hairdressing is a hands-on job, and I really enjoy the social aspect. When I was looking to work in hairdressing, I researched different Salisbury salons and Smith England stood out the most with a great reputation. I would love to specialise in styling and cutting because of the visual side of it – being a technician is more scientific and requires a longer process, whereas with cutting, I can see the outcome already!

The best encouragement I’ve been given is from my mum. She always says if I get through being an assistant, I’ll get to the top. I need to work hard, starting at the bottom and climbing my way up. My favourite part of working in a salon is having a team around me. I’ve met best friends here and I’m able to socialise with lots of different people.

My advice to anyone starting out in the industry is to be patient. Hard work will pay off!”

NEVE BENNETT-LOCKEY @

HARINGTONS

“I was attracted to hairdressing because it’s a creative career that would let me express myself artistically and not confine my spirit. I picked Haringtons because they have a great reputation for training and the salon is a lovely environment to work in. They have produced some top hairdressers who have gone far in the world of hair and one day I would like to do the same. At the moment, I’m loving doing both technical and styling; being able to support a client through their entire hair journey is something that really inspires me.

In terms of training, my programme is four full days a month, doing five models a day plus one model night a week.

Another massive part of my learning involves working on the salon floor throughout the day and watching how the other staff work. My favourite part about this is getting to express my creativity and meet new people. The social aspect of hairdressing is a wonderful part of my job and a great life skill to have too.

My best advice to someone wanting to go into hairdressing is to be your true self and to have lots of confidence. Being able to express yourself plays a huge part in what kind of hairdresser you’ll be. As with all things in life, the job requires hard work, but the rewards can be great.”

IN ENGLAND, PREVIOUS APPRENTICESHIP FRAMEWORKS WERE PHASED OUT IN 2020 AND REPLACED WITH NEW GUIDELINES THAT SET A HIGHER STANDARD AND INCLUDE A WIDER RANGE OF SKILLS. THIS MAKES TODAY’S APPRENTICES FAR MORE ‘SALON-READY’ WHEN THEY’VE FINISHED THEIR TRAINING.

@ HOUSE OF KEUNE BY BLOOM

“I came across the House of Keune by Bloom on social media and I was attracted to it straight away – it’s stunning! It also offered me the best opportunity to learn and better my skills.

We train one day per week in the salon, initially bringing models and getting everything signed off. When I get close to being on the floor, my training days will increase to build more confidence and experience with clients.

The best tip I’ve learned so far is to ask as many questions in a consultation as possible, even if they might seem meaningless. Always reconfirm what you have discussed back to your client too, this shows you have understood and will help better paint the picture for you both.

The most difficult aspect of my journey so far has been getting models every week for my training, it has been a steep learning curve!

@ ERROL DOUGLAS, LONDON

“My mum works at Errol Douglas on reception and organised a trial shift for me because she knew how much I loved hair. She thought doing an apprenticeship here would be a really good option for me. Before this, I was studying beauty, but I definitely gravitated more towards hair.

I currently work four days in the salon and then go to college one day per week. I also have model nights where I learn in the salon after my workday. I’m able to bring braiding clients into the salon on my days off too – when Errol discovered I could braid, he was very supportive! He’s posted my work on his Instagram account before and has encouraged me to post my own work more too.

I find learning in the salon extremely useful. I’ve learned so much from everyone, especially because we’re being educated by the best stylists and colourists who have been doing this for years – they have so much knowledge to give! In the future, I would like to specialise in Afro hair as well as being able to cater for all hair types, so Errol Douglas is perfect for me.

My advice to anyone that wants to go into hairdressing is to have confidence. You need to have confidence in order to relate to clients and be able to speak to people.”

My advice to anyone thinking about an apprenticeship would be to be confident. Having the confidence to ask people I see on the street to be a model for my training was tough, but it has given me so much more self-belief when it comes to working with the public in the salon.” DID YOU KNOW?

LEGALLY, YOU MUST SIGN AN APPRENTICESHIP AGREEMENT WITH YOUR APPRENTICE. THIS SETS OUT ALL THE DETAILS OF TERMS OF SERVICE, WHAT TRAINING THEY WILL RECEIVE AND HOW LONG THE APPRENTICESHIP WILL LAST. IT’S A WATERTIGHT WAY OF MAKING SURE EVERYONE KNOWS WHAT THEY’RE IN FOR.

IF YOUR SALON OR BARBERSHOP BUSINESS HAS FEWER THAN 50 EMPLOYEES, YOU AND YOUR TRAINING PROVIDER WILL EACH RECEIVE AN INCENTIVE PAYMENT OF £1,000 FOR EACH 16-18-YEAR-OLD (OR 19-24-YEAR-OLD WHO HAS BEEN IN CARE OR HAS A LOCAL AUTHORITY CARE PLAN) APPRENTICE YOU TAKE ON. YOU CAN FIND DETAILS ON THE GOV.UK WEBSITE.

CHARLEY JEFFORD

@ TRISTAN EVES, PETWORTH

“I tend to learn visually and have lots of creative interests, so this led me to pursue a career in hairdressing. I chose to work at Tristan Eves because I heard about its promising opportunities and potential for growth and learning. My progression from an apprentice to a qualified hairdresser, working with clients and receiving five-star reviews, allows me to showcase my practical learning within the salon, including my skill development and my growing confidence.

The most challenging part of my hairdressing journey occurred after qualifying when I took time off to have a child. Coming back, regaining confidence and rebuilding my skills were significant hurdles. Despite the difficulties, this journey has shaped my resilience and determination in pursuing my career.I love working with people and experiencing the rewarding feeling that comes from making someone happy with the outcome I’ve crafted.

My advice for someone aspiring to enter hairdressing would be to embrace practice and hard work. Infuse love and passion into your work and you’ll reap the rewards through happy clients and positive recognition.”

MIRROR MIRROR ON THE SCREEN

THE UNSTOPPABLE IMPACT OF AR ON THE HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY

In the midst of this current Social Media minefield, Founder of Content Kweens and Hairdressing Social Media Consultant, Ben Lifton, is a seasoned business coach with a passion for digital marketing and content creation. Continuing his exclusive series, Ben’s mission is to equip hair pros with the tools, support and knowledge necessary to market

In the ever-evolving world of technology, Augmented Reality (AR) is emerging as a game-changer for the hair and beauty industry. Seamlessly blending digital elements like images, videos and 3D objects with our real-world surroundings, AR delivers interactive and immersive experiences through devices such as smartphones and smart glasses.

As we step into 2024, AR is set to continue revolutionising social media marketing. In particular, platforms like TikTok and Instagram are leading the charge by integrating AR filters and effects, offering users experiences that bridge the gap between the digital and physical worlds.

TIKTOK’S AR FILTERS: A GLIMPSE INTO THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY

TikTok’s AR filters have been making waves, allowing users to experiment with different hair colours and providing a virtual mirror for users to gauge which shades complement their unique skin tones.

HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS: SHAPING THE AR CONVERSATION

While it may seem daunting to compete with cutting-edge AR technology, hair and beauty professionals have a unique role to play through actively contributing to and questioning the growing AR landscape. With their credibility, specialised skillsets and personal stories, they are well-positioned to engage in meaningful discussions about the impact of AR filters on the beauty industry.

“It’s essential to strike a balance between the allure of digital enhancements and the authenticity of real-world beauty.”

A notable example is the Bold Glamour filter, an AR makeup filter that has taken the platform by storm. This filter seamlessly enhances its users’ features, creating contoured cheekbones, plumper lips and eyebrows reminiscent of Cara Delevingne. Since its launch, it has been used in over 19 million videos, showcasing the immense popularity of AR-enhanced hair and beauty experiences.

While AR filters are not entirely new, the accessibility and realism they offer are ground-breaking. As technology continues to advance, these filters will become even more realistic, blurring the lines between the virtual and the real. This trend is set to redefine how consumers interact with hair and beauty products, allowing them to experiment with new looks before making any commitments.

For instance, professionals can create ‘explainer videos’ that provide insights into the real-world costs, processes and potential risks associated with achieving the filtered and AR-enhanced results that clients often desire. These videos can serve as educational tools, helping clients make informed decisions about beauty transformations.

EMBRACING THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY

As we venture into the AR-driven future of beauty, it’s essential to strike a balance between the allure of digital enhancements and the authenticity of real-world beauty. AR filters and effects are undoubtedly transforming the way we experiment with makeup and hair colours, but they should be seen as tools that enhance our creativity rather than replace it.

Hair and beauty professionals have the opportunity to guide clients through this new landscape, offering expertise, knowledge and a human touch that technology alone cannot replicate. By embracing AR and actively participating in discussions about its impact, professionals can ensure that beauty remains a celebration of individuality and self-expression, whether in the real world or the metaverse.

https://www.contentkweens.com/@contentkweens

A GOOD HEAD forBUSINESS

INSPIRED BY GENERATIONS

Continuing her exclusive series, Natasha Grossman, CEO of HOB Salons, shares her practical business expertise with you.

HOB Salons was established in May 1983, and I’ve had the pleasure of being part of the business for the last twenty years. Recently, I’ve been asked what the secret to 40 years in business is, particularly post-pandemic when our industry has been faced with so many challenges.  I wanted to share my answer with you...

listening to their feedback, we’ve been able to adapt our strategies, services, and marketing approaches to align with the preferences of a rapidly evolving market. This adaptability is essential for staying relevant and meeting the demands of our clients.

When I think about how we have had to adapt and change over the last four years, particularly in this fast-paced and ever-changing landscape, one powerful source of inspiration that we have turned to within our business is the younger generation. Harnessing the innovative spirit and fresh perspectives of the youth has been a huge catalyst for evolution and progression within HOB.

One key aspect of being inspired by younger generations is the infusion of technology. In an era where the digital world is at the forefront of almost every industry, tapping into the digital fluency of younger team members can provide invaluable insights. Whether it’s optimising internal processes or exploring new marketing strategies, the input of our younger staff has significantly enhanced our company’s performance.

From young stylists to apprentices, these younger individuals possess a deep understanding of emerging trends and changing consumer behaviours. By actively

The collaborative synergy between our younger talent combined with our more experienced team members fosters a dynamic work environment. This diverse team, spanning various age groups, backgrounds and experiences, has generated a rich pool of ideas. This collaborative approach not only benefits our business, but also creates a positive culture that attracts top talent and increases staff retention.

Additionally, being inspired by younger generations promotes a forward-thinking mindset within our company. This mindset encourages continuous learning, openness to change and a willingness to experiment with new ideas.

Whether you’re looking to grow your following on social media or want to come up with better ways to increase productivity and performance, the younger generation can help to create suggestions and ideas that you may not have even thought of yet.

How often do you reach out to your younger team members...?

NEED-to-KNOW TRICHO

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HAIR TRANSPLANTS

This month, Nioxin Ambassador and globally recognised trichologist, Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), addresses a topic that almost all hairdressers will have been asked about at some point: hair transplants. It’s a hot topic that raises a lot of questions, but thankfully Mark has all the answers...

■ CAN ANYONE HAVE A HAIR TRANSPLANT?

Whilst transplants are suitable for most people, they cannot be offered to patients with traditional alopecia or scarring alopecia. The process is also dependant on the amount of donor hair available as there is only so much hair to share around the head.

■ IF SOMEONE HAS NO HAIR, CAN THEY HAVE A TRANSPLANT?

No. You cannot use any hair other than your own for a transplant because the body will reject it. In this case, it’s best to have scalp micropigmentation instead.

■ CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE PROCEDURE?

Clinics will often use fancy terms to sound like they are doing something different, but there are essentially two different techniques used for hair transplants: FUT and FUE. The extraction process is different, but the planting of the grafts back into the scalp is the same for both procedures.

■ FUT – FOLLICULAR UNIT TRANSPLANTATION

Often referred to as the strip technique, a narrow strip of scalp from the donor area is extracted. Using a stereo microscope to see the donor hair, it is carefully dissected into follicular units using a scalpel. The surgical wound is closed using sutures or staples and removed around 10 days later. In most cases, this only leaves a pencil line 2-3mm scar.

Benefits of FUT:

● Large graft numbers can be extracted from the best quality area and the hair is less likely to thin later in life.

● Large bald areas can be covered in one session.

● Hair doesn’t need shaving at donor area.

■ FUE –FOLLICULAR UNIT EXTRACTION

Follicular units are extracted from the donor area using a 0.8mm-1mm punch. The motorised punch makes a circular incision around the chosen hair, groups of hair follicles are then pulled from the scalp. This is referred to as harvested hair.

Benefits of FUE:

● Shorter post-operative healing and recovery time than the FUT method.

● No scalpel, suture or staples.

● No need to surgically remove a strip off the scalp.

● This is the least painful procedure.

● No linear scars so hair can be worn very short.

● Minimal risk of damage to occipital or temporal blood vessels.

■ IN BASIC TERMS, WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENS?

Hair is taken from the occipital area when it is transplanted to its new location. It keeps its original characteristics, finds its new blood supply and grows happily from then on –there is no chance of rejection as this is your own tissue and cells. The new holes are made using mini incisions in the recipient’s scalp, before the tiny follicular unit grafts are carefully placed. The blood clots around the new grafts act as a type of surgical adhesive until the grafts can find their own blood supply.

■ HOW LONG DOES A TRANSPLANT TAKE?

Hair transplants can take between 4-8 hours.

■ WHEN DOES HAIR START TO GROW?

0-3 months: The first three months following a hair transplant are known as the ‘dormant shock’ phase. The hair won’t grow yet, it will fall out as the transplanted follicles start to shed.

4-6 months: The transplanted hair starts to grow. It may look thin and curly. Transplanted areas will remain patchy as follicles all have different stages of their growth cycles.

6-8 months: Fast growth starts happening. Hair fills in where it’s been transplanted and a big difference can be seen.

8-12 months: By the end of the year, the hair should have reached the ‘mature’ stage of growth. The transplanted hair will grow thicker and at a normal rate of 1-2 cm per month.

■ WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON TRAVELLING OVERSEAS FOR A HAIR TRANSPLANT?

The ‘Turkey teeth’ and hair transplant market has exploded. I see good hair transplants from Turkey, but I also see some complete disasters, so you must do your research. Advise your clients that they must not choose their surgeon based on a great-looking website. Unlike the UK, many hair transplant clinics abroad are not regulated by the CQC (Care Quality Commission). Check whether the surgeon is a member of ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons), or an equivalent regulated governing body.

DAMAGE DONE.

For hair that’s in need of repair.

WELLA PROFESSIONALS introduces a new smooth operator... whatever your hair type, you will definitely want to meet this mask!

One year ago, Wella Professionals came to the rescue of badly damaged hair with its Ultimate Repair range. Clients celebrated how it transformed their hair, leaving it smoother, stronger and healthier-looking.

Optimising on this, Wella Professionals has added another power player to the range:

Meet the Ultimate Repair Mask (RRP £30)

An indulgent treatment for intense damage repair and smoothness without over-weighing the hair.

Freelance forum...

THE PRICE IS RIGHT

This month in the Freelance Forum, two of our experts offer on how you should approach your pricing as a freelancer...

Unfortunately, low pricing or competitive costs rarely deliver the desired outcome. Sure, we might get lots of appointment requests initially, but we will often end up with a salon full of less-than-ideal clients that only ever seem to want MORE from us –more discounts, more flexibility, more of everything – without ever giving us MOREmoney! That’s because our low prices communicated to them exactly how we felt about ourselves when we set the menu – desperate. This is a fast road to financial ruin and mental burnout and before we know it we are working longer hours to make the maths add up.

Rise & Shine

RUTH LUNDSTROM, CEO & Founder of The

Freelance Suite app, explains why pricing high is a marketing move you’re missing.

Pricing isn’t just a mathematical equation, it’s a psychology and a strategy. Pricing is Maths + Marketing + Mindset.

When it comes to pricing our services, we often think we need clients immediately knocking the door down and queuing around the corner to be able to make our business work, so we mistakenly assume that low prices = lots of clients quickly.

So, why do we price ourselves this way?

In reality, so many of us price ourselves low out of fear of losing our clients. This couldn’t be further from the truth though.

Pricing yourself like the other local salons doesn’t set you apart, it just puts you in direct competition with them. Do you want to compete for clients? Of course you don’t. You want loyal clients that appreciate the work you do and the skills you’ve invested so much time in gaining.

Competitive pricing conveys a lack of quality and value to your clients; people know they are less likely to get what they’re paying for because high quality never comes cheap. The clients you seek understand that a quality product or service takes time and costs money. Quality colour costs more than budget colour and a high level of skill takes a large investment of time and money to achieve.

High prices don’t just communicate quality, they also communicate a far more important message of luxury, exclusivity and

status. When we see a high price tag on a luxury product or service, we assume that it’s out of the reach of many, which is exactly what drives us to want to purchase it. What your clients are looking to buy from you is a feeling – a feeling of being part of the upper class, the wealthy 1% that can afford such things. A feeling of higher status.

What your clients are looking to buy from you is a feeling – a feeling of being part of the upper class, the wealthy 1% that can afford such things. A feeling of higher status.

As humans, we are in a constant state of flexing our status. However, that status isn’t always about buying the most expensive item, you also witness it within other social groups like veganism or eco-warriors – they are all looking to be the ‘best vegan’ or the ‘most-concerned eco-warrior’. That’s not to say these things are bad, but once you understand this little piece of human psychology, you can see how easy it is to charge your worth or increase your prices.

Ultimately, this is why you will shed less than 1% of clients when you do a price increase or a menu overhaul, and it’s why you’ll start receiving more booking requests too. It’s because your perceived value has just risen with your prices.

Remember, high prices will not put off loyal clients that value skill and quality, low prices will though...

Because You’re Worth it...

With more than half of hairdressing professionals building self-employed businesses, pricing has become a significant differentiator for many. This month, LACEY HUNTER-FELTON, Cofounder of the Hunter Collective, shares her advice to help freelancers price services successfully in 2024.

Hunter Collective recently hosted an education day with an audience made up of 50% traditional salon owners and 50% freelancers.

We learnt that, when a classic salon owner’s column was full, they felt confident increasing their prices because they knew that clients would filter to lower price bands across the whole salon business. Even if they lost 15% of clients, they

were likely to gain that back with new clients and, failing that, the higher prices would cover the cost of client loss. The freelancers in the room, on the other hand, said that because they didn’t have the perceived protection of a salon structure, their clients would know that the price increase had come directly from them and that made them feel uncomfortable.

So, here is my advice to those looking to change their pricing: Firstly, begin to track the demand for your services. If you’ve closed your books because you’re at capacity, you can test the water by opening a waiting list. If this proves popular, you know that your services are sought-after, presenting a great opportunity for a price increase to new clients which can slowly filter to existing clients. Alternatively, if you feel confident in putting your prices up across the board, you need to be prepared to potentially lose 10-15% of your current clientele, but just like traditional salons, the price increase will cover that initial shortfall.

Sometimes I feel we find ourselves over-explaining and justifying every detail of our business to please our clients. I think this can be a potential trap which all small businesses can fall into. Using the excuse of higher product costs and the rise of the cost of living to justify a price increase, for example.

While these things are still relevant, at Hunter Collective we aim to empower our freelancers in their rational, giving them the confidence to explain that their pricing reflects what their unique services have to offer. It’s the hours of education, quality services and premium products that back up a price increase. You will find that nine times out of ten, it’s only a small minority of clients that will question a price increase when prices are based on a fantastic experience.

There is also an ongoing conversation around sustainability options as a freelancer, i.e. how you manage waste costs and what this means for pricing. It can feel hard to

communicate an extra charge based on your individual environmental consciousness, but it seems a growing number of clients are becoming environmentally aware, meaning they will embrace your choice to deliver a sustainably minded experience. A widely used term, ‘green fee’, has simplified the need for extensive explanation for these charges. In fact, they are already accepted in many services we use, from taxis to delivery companies. Remember, cost isn’t prohibitive if the client understands what they are contributing to. Ultimately, it’s all about effective communication.

Sometimes I feel we find ourselves over-explaining and justifying every detail of our business to please our clients. I think this can be a potential trap which all small businesses can fall into.

Interestingly, these topics lead us to a deeper conversation which can often cause anxiety. I have spoken to hairdressers who feel insecure about showing their financial success through the new lifestyle they have created. In my mind, this speaks of imposter syndrome and fear of judgement. I believe the answer is about building your business profile. Focus on the elements of your business that highlight your pricing levels in a positive way; showcase your training, choice of product ranges and the happiness of your clients. If your brand presents as high quality, consumers will see this as a symbol of their own success, reputation and social status, making them more willing to pay higher prices. I hope these insights remove some concerns for anyone that is afraid to showcase the successful growth of their business.

Professional Impression

As the founder of the FHA, SHEILA ABRAHAMS MBE is the doyenne of the freelance hairdressing industry. This issue, Shelia tackles exactly what it takes to be a self-employed hairdresser.

Let’s look at the nuts and bolts of what is required to run a successful professional freelance service: you need to be a qualified and experienced hairdresser, understand simple bookkeeping, have enough clients and be able to earn extra money.

The easy bit is being a competent and qualified hairdresser, but how do you ensure clients take you seriously and view your hairdressing service as a professional business. It starts at the very beginning: how you present yourself, how you behave and the message you convey.

Next thing we need is clients –where do they come from? Finding clients can be a real challenge, but

it’s not impossible! To increase your customer base, you can encourage those you already have to recommend a friend and reward them both with a treat – a complimentary gift or a product sample, for example. To gain clients, thoughts tend to go straight to social media, but nothing works better than word of mouth – i.e. one client recommending another. This is also great as it means you will gain the type of clients you are looking for. Remember, your greatest advertising is your work itself; as soon as your client leaves your chair, they are a walking advert for your business!

Next, how do you create appeal for your business? Freelancers don’t have a shop window to entice people in, and impressions are made in a moment. You’ll want to list the services you provide, especially if you are a bleach specialist or do bridal hair, for example. Keeping an up-to-date price list clear and visible for clients to see also helps manage their expectation for each appointment, whether they’re coming for the ‘full works’ or just looking for a trim. Highlighting your qualifications and insurance coverage is another key factor, this not only instils confidence but also reinforces your professionalism. Finally, establishing clear terms of business and a cancellation policy sets the framework for a smooth client experience.

Moving onto social media. In today’s digital age, leveraging social media platforms like Instagram is indispensable for promoting your business as a freelance hairdresser. Your Instagram profile serves as your virtual shop window, offering potential clients a glimpse into your expertise and style.

To make the most impact, focus on capturing clean, high-quality images that showcase your hair creations without distractions. Keep backgrounds clutter-free, ensuring the spotlight remains on your work. Invest in good lighting and framing to highlight the intricacies of your hairstyles and colours. Consistency is key; maintain a cohesive aesthetic and posting schedule to keep followers engaged. Don’t forget to engage with your audience by

Remember, your greatest advertising is your work itself; as soon as your client leaves your chair, they are a walking advert for your business!

responding to comments and messages. Lastly, utilise hashtags strategically to expand your reach and attract potential clients searching for hair inspiration. With dedication and a keen eye for presentation, social media can become your most powerful tool for growing your freelance hairdressing business.

We can tend to run away from retailing, but this is another very important part of your business that must not be forgotten. You want your clients to use the best products on their hair to keep it in the best condition possible, so who better to advise and sell to them exactly what they need than their professional hairdresser. Freelancing is a one-to-one service, and we are with our clients because they have invited us to do their hair – it’s the perfect situation to discuss their hair, its problems and the solutions we can offer!

Retailing is also very profitable and very often overlooked. Let’s say each item only has £3 profit, for example, if you sell 10x products a week for 46 weeks a year, you could earn an extra £1380. Now that is worth having!

Now, onto understanding tax. Your personal tax allowance is £12,570. This means that until you have a profit of over £12,570, you have no tax liability. Whilst this depends on your circumstances (which we will dive deeper into in future articles), in general terms this is correct. With this in mind, obtaining the correct level of Public Liability Insurance is crucial – you need to understand the cover it gives you and the skin testing policy that is compatible with the way you work.

Keep an eye out for my next article as we will look at thecorrect level of insurance you should have...

Elevating street style to new heights, Indola’s latest collection captures a seriously cool, edgy vibe. Featuring a blend of textures, unconventional cuts, vibrant colours and fresh styles, this is an elevated fusion of street fashion.

HAIR: Andy Smith & Abbey Smith for Indola MAKE-UP: Claire Evans

STYLING: Clare Frith PHOTOGRAPHY: Jovaras Mazrimas

From Claudia’s infamous eye-skimming fringe in The Traitors, Paul Mescal’s career-defining modern mullet and Amy Winehouse’s brilliant, bold and beautiful beehive, we take a look at the latest trending styles on the big and small screens to find out what is trickling down to the salon floor…

‘With red carpet season back in full swing, I was extremely fortunate to work with Eva Longoria on many red carpet events. She has certainly brought back the love of gorgeous, voluminous waves that we as stylists all know and love. As a very transitional style, the waves need to be more voluminous than ever, with excess volume at the root to give the hair a lift and a few added extensions to enhance the overall look.’

Jay Birmingham, Jay B Haircare

‘The bob has been one of the most dominant hair trends across the red carpets so far this year, with America Ferrera, Emma Stone and Carey Mulligan all embracing the chop. Already we have noticed a large surge in clients coming into the salon requesting bob haircuts, but this will only continue as we come into spring. In 2023, bobs were worn very textured and voluminous, however, this spring we are seeing sleeker, more blunt cuts for a

‘Jennifer Aniston showed up to this year’s Golden Globe Awards sporting her famous ‘The Rachel’ cut. Her red carpet look went viral, with many clients now returning to the salon requesting ‘The Rachel’ once again. Featuring soft layering throughout the hair for an effortless, volumised finish, the beauty of this cut allows it to be tailored for every hair length and face shape. For 2024, we are seeing this cut longer layers to retain the length of the hair.’

Suzie McGill Artistic Director at Rainbow Room International

‘Leo Woodall’s casual mid-length layered haircut is a classic because it is so versatile; it can be worn on or off the face with little effort. This hair length can also be styled with a little bit of Revlon Professional D:fi D:sculpt for a sleeker finish after a rough towel-dry, or diffused with Revlon Professional Style Masters Endless Control Fluid Wax for a more structured finish.’

Rino Riccio, Manifesto London

‘There is no doubt that Dua Lipa has amazing hair. I love the fact she is using her new film Argyle to express her natural texture with this new bob cut. The blunt cut incorporates very soft layering to enhance her texture, whilst the colour finishes the look off with a cool edgy vibe. You see, the bob doesn’t have to be perfectly straight and glossy, it can look just as cool with a textured finish. Adding product such as TECNI.ART Pli spray from L’Oréal Professionnel can help to create this effortless, natural look.’

‘Described as a ‘rich expresso’ colour, Zendaya’s dark coffee tones create a super high-gloss finish, perfectly on-trend for 2024. This colour is all over the runway right now, and I predict a rise in our clients being influenced by this classic brunette shade. Pro Tip: Spray your bristle brush with Keune Style Brilliant Gloss Spray and smooth over any flyaways to give the hair a mirror-like shine.’

‘Longer bangs are definitely trending right now – they are longer than ever! Lots of clients are bringing in inspiration pictures of Claudia Winkleman in The Traitors, with her trademark eye-skimming bangs. For individuals with naturally straight hair, these bangs are particularly suitable as they require less styling compared to styles like curtain bangs. They offer the perfect straight-down, sexy and mysterious look.’

Emma Simmons, Salon 54

‘Coming from the Netflix screen in Fool Me Once, Michelle Keegan has been a known inspiration for many of our clients in the salon. Her very subtle balayage is a gorgeous look and accessible colour option for many clients who don’t want to go for a complete colour overhaul! Likewise, Michelle’s styling is also very consumer friendly; loose waves, relaxed chignons or sleek blow-dries are fantastic for clients to try and also recreate at home.’

Tracey Ann Smith, ASP Global Ambassador and Midlands Hairdresser of the Year

Gemma Davers, Creative Director at Bloom Lifestyle

Charlie Illi, Brooks & Brooks

‘This modern mullet haircut, as recently seen on Paul Mescal,can best be described as short or medium hair on the top and sides combined with long hair in the back and neck. As this is a strong haircut that can be left to dry naturally, it’s a good option if you just want to get up and go without the hassle of styling.’

‘Ayo Edebiri’s Italian Bob at the Golden Globes was the epitome of sleek sophistication. This style is defined by its smoothness and dynamic movement, offering an elegant yet playful appearance. To recreate this bob, use Wella Professionals EIMI Perfect Me Lightweight Beauty Balm Lotion to add lustre and protect against heat. Work with a flat iron for sleekness, followed by Wella Professionals EIMI Glam Mist for added shine and a chic finish.’

Fergal

‘We are definitely seeing an increase in shorter styles as inspiration for salon appointments. Lots of screen starlets have had the chop recently, creating a surge of this brave, bold and empowering style. Florence Pugh has 100% nailed the buzzcut look; from dark to blonde to pink, she has shown how playing around with colour can elevate and add fun to what is a very extreme style.’

Tim Scott-Wright, The Hair Surgery

‘The new Amy Winehouse movie is hitting our screens this spring, and I think it may bring with it a trend for big hair and 50s styling. In music, the bouffant has been around for decades, but Amy revived the look with a modern twist in the 2000s with her iconic styling and attitude. I predict we will see this voluminous style take on a softer, classier feel, particularly in bridal styling.’

Rino Riccio, Manifesto London

Doyle, Fergal Doyle Hair

Janene Hawkins-Bush, Suffolk Hair

‘As we’ve all known since the aftermath of the Priscilla biopic, Priscilla Presley was renowned for her gorgeous dark hair. With a huge increase in client’s requesting the iconic shade, it’s important to get the colour just right. This deep chestnut brown can be achieved with mixing OSMO IKON Dark Brown (3.0) with Medium Natural Warm Brown (4NW), applying all over for a full-colour coverage. I also recommend applying the OSMO IKON Blue Colour Additive to help neutralise unwanted orange tones.’

‘Timothée Chalamet’s 90s hairstyle is an amazing look. Requiring a medium-length cut, the style incorporates a gradual progression of lengths from short to long. You can also add texture with a texturising spray, such as Revlon Professional Style Masters Creator Memory Spray. This look is a reliable option for hiding an uneven or receding hairline.’

‘The new Mean Girls has been a recent hit, featuring Reneé Rapp sporting the iconic buttercream blonde that Regina George is known for. To replicate this creamy blonde hairstyle, a full-head of highlights that combines buttery and bright blondes is required, mixed in with ashy darker blonde lowlights to add dimension from root to tip.’

‘Anne Hathaway has showcased several beautiful vintage hair looks at recent red carpet appearances, sporting styles similar to the previous beehive trend but paired with a half-up half-down style to give the look a softer edge. For 2024, we are seeing the return of volume at the crown, with many clients looking to experiment with backcombing techniques, quiffs and subtle beehives for their special occasions and events.’

Brian Leo McCallum, Owner of ROAR Hair & Beauty

‘It goes without saying that the fringe is an easy accessory that can update any style in an instant. The latest celebrity to wear the flattering face-framer is Dakota Johnson in her new film, Madame Web. Her signature fringe has been softly textured for 2024, sitting comfortably with her loose, wavy hair to skim just above the eyes.’

Daniele de Angelis, TONI&GUY, London

Rino Riccio, Manifesto London

Adele Clarke, Spectrum Hair

Laura Elliott, Head of Education at Neäl and Wølf

LA DOLCE VITA

Giuseppe Manco

A MASTERCLASS IN STYLE AND ELEGANCE, THIS COLLECTION EPITOMISES EVERYTHING GIUSEPPE MANCO STANDS FOR. CRAFTED WITH TRUE ITALIAN FLAIR AND GRACE, LA DOLCE VITA COMBINES PRECISION CUTTING WITH FEMININE STYLING TO CELEBRATE THE MOST GLAMOROUS INTERPRETATION OF THE FEMALE AESTHETIC.

MAKE-UP: Megumi Matsuno

STYLING: Anna Latham

PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole

HAIR: Giuseppe Manco at Giuseppe Manco

LUMI-KIN

Josh and Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy

HAIR: Josh Goldsworthy and Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy, Goldsworthy’s

MAKE-UP: Amy O’Driscoll STYLING: Jess Larrad PHOTOGRAPHY: Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy

“Simplicity reigns supreme in this collection, as it embraces the notion that less is more. Uncomplicated yet striking, the hair arrangements emphasise the natural beauty of the models, allowing their unique radiance to shine through. The subtle interplay of colour placement further enhances the depth and dimension, adding an ethereal quality to each image. A rich palette infuses the collection with an inviting and comforting aura. Soft golden hues, fiery coppers and deep brunettes create a sense of warmth and intimacy.”

MAKE-UP:

POP

EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY

POP is all about making life less serious. It’s about finding all those fun ‘pops’ of colour in our lives.

The inspiration behind the collection came from the vibrant world of pop art. By using a range of techniques and textures, the collection showcases strong, dynamic hair shapes. The make-up is bold and striking, perfectly complementing the vibrant, clashing and playful styling.

HAIR: Melenie Tudor, Jade Ashleigh Bowden, Sophie Calton, Eve Rose Hanna and Millie Ancill

Maddie Austin Kelly STYLING: Clare Frith PHOTOGRAPHY: Michael Young

SHOP THE DROP!

PERFECT IMPERFECTIONS

Featuring the same tried and tested formulas, Paul Mitchell releasesa new look for its Awapuhi Wild Ginger Hydrate range. Purposefully imperfect, each bottle or tube is made from at least 25% post-consumer recycled packaging, creating a slight colour variation due to the nature of the recycled content. Comprised of the Hydrasoft Shampoo, Conditioner and Glossing Treatment, the range works to deeply hydrate, bind and seal the hair for optimal softness and shine.

www.rdr.link/HAS008

STOP AND SMELL IT!

Nioxin has announced its new Anti-Hair Loss Serum with Sandalore, a serum designed to thicken hair from its first use. Not only improving the hair density, this intensive treatment has also been crafted to make hair stronger and reduce hair loss. According to research, the Sandalore scent, (which is a synthetic version of sandalwood) can be smelt by the olfactory receptors in the hair follicles, subsequently stimulating the hair and prolonging its growth.

www.rdr.link/HAS010

DOUBLE THE DEFENCE

Clinically proven to provide conditioning protection against damage from UV rays, mechanical styling and environmental aggressors for up to three days, K18 has launched the DAMAGE SHIELD Protective Conditioner. Formulated with the K18PEPTIDE to replenish hair during washing, the nourishing conditioner acts as a shield against daily damage, helping to maintain hair health and improve smoothness and shine.

www.rdr.link/HAS007

CORDLESS COMFORT

Designed for increased visibility, precision in compact spaces and comfortable handling, WAHL has launched its brand-new A•LIGN Trimmer. The new electrical boasts three hours of cordless power for an upgraded way of trimming.

www.rdr.link/HAS009

KEEPING IT PROFESSIONAL

Nicky Clarke has unveiled AirStyle PRO, a professional-grade hair dryer and styler that combines cutting-edge technology with a compact and lightweight design. Developed specifically to meet the demands of professional hairdressers, Airstyle PRO features infrared technology that helps promote blood circulation, reduce stress on the hair cuticle and offer anti-inflammatory benefits for healthier hair and scalp.

www.rdr.link/HAS011

GERMS BE GONE!

Harnessing the power of UV bacteria-killing technology, BaByliss PRO has developed a new way to keep tools safe and hygienic: the UV Foil Shavers. With powerful LED lights built into a newly designed product cap for an automatic three-minute cleaning cycle, the UV kills off 99.9% of bacteria. The UV Foil Shaver is available as either a double offset system – designed for perfect trims and shaves, or the single foil system – for an extra-close shave on the most detailed areas. www.rdr.link/HAS012

BENDING OVER BACKWARDS

Introducing Backbend, the new workable hold non-aerosol hairspray from R+Co Crafted to keep styles in place and flyaways tame, the ultra-fine mist uses a quick-drying formula to deliver excellent shape memory. With blackcurrant and blueberry extract, the hairspray helps to smooth strands and fight frizz, leaving the hair weightless and static-free. www.rdr.link/HAS014

A

THREE STRIKES AND YOU’RE SMOOTH!

Keratin Complex launches Healthy Hair Trio Kit, a travel-friendly kit working to fight frizz no matter the texture.

Containing the Keratin Care Smoothing

Shampoo and Conditioner, and Keratin

Obsessed Multi-Benefit Treatment Spray, each bestselling product provides the ultimate smoothness for all hair types.

www.rdr.link/HAS013

DROP IN THE OCEAN

Specially formulated with nurturing properties to moisturise the hair, SACHAJUAN has launched its Ocean Mist Volume Hair Mousse. With a lightweight formula to add shine and deliver non-sticky volume to the hair, the airless mousse is enriched with additional hydration to soften locks and enhance their natural lustre, all while minimising static.  www.rdr.link/HAS015

NEVER GOING OUT OF STYLE

Goldwell introduces the relaunch of its iconic StyleSign collection, designed to create and reimagine styles with ease. With a versatile yet compact assortment of 27 products, including revered classics and five great additions, the StyleSign collection empowers hairstylists to create enduring styles that stand the test of time. The new multi-functional products are designed to allow professionals to play with and express each individual style while educating their clients on how adaptable their cut can be.

www.rdr.link/HAS016

Colour without Compromise

The new Chroma ID Express Bonding Color Masks are available in 14 intermixable, semi-permanent shades for full customisation. The FIBREBOND technology and conditioning formula offer maximum colour coverage whilst leaving hair beautifully smooth and intensely conditioned.

Lasting up to 15 washes and taking only 10 minutes to develop, Chroma ID is a great solution for clients looking for fast, low-commitment colour services. The improved formula has a soft, creamy consistency, to allow for easy and quick application, whilst also being vegan and PETA-certified. With zero damage, you can truly colour without compromise!

BOOST THE BENEFITS

The Chroma ID Express Bonding Color Masks help address three key issues for in-salon colour services:

1. EXPRESS COLOUR PLAY

For clients that want a low-commitment way to switch up their colour, these masks allow you to work with a full-head application or freehand placement to play with bold colours and personalised shades.

2. EXPRESS COLOUR NEUTRALISATION

Helping to banish unwanted brassy tones on both blondes and brunettes with a lighter base, the masks keep colour cool and fresh.

3. EXPRESS COLOUR REFRESH

For hair that’s faded one or two levels, this service refreshes and refines mid-lengths and ends, leaving it vibrant and healthy-looking.

CARE IS KEY

Most clients want colour without compromise and Chroma ID offers zero damage colour thanks to the formula’s state-of-the-art in-built care:

1. INTEGRATED FIBREBOND TECHNOLOGY

This provides intense care, enforcing structural bonds and repairing damage to leave the hair smooth and conditioned.

2. LOW SALT TECHNOLOGY

This improves colour penetration and coverage by maximising the pigment available to the hair.

3. PANTHENOL

This provides deep care, sealing the outer cuticle for healthy-looking hair with incredible shine.

TAKE ME HOME!

Chroma ID makes it easy for clients to maintain their colour between visits. Refreshing the hair and increasing the longevity of any colour, it is the perfect refresh solution for your clients at home.

FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT: WWW.RDR.LINK/HAS017

SAM THOMPSON & PETE WICKS

As you can imagine, this was a shoot full of energy! It was a super fun day working with these two best mates for Arcadia magazine, promoting all things SAM AND PETE, which included taking their podcast on tour. It was nice as I got to do full haircuts on them both too, which is often a rarity on talent shoots. I really enjoy getting to show off my cutting skills. Stay tuned for the final images…

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER, GROOMER AND NEW SALON OWNER, LUKE BENSON, SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS WITH US – YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS HERE WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

Follow Luke Benson @lukebensoncreative and @lukebensonsalon

HERE 4 YOU Campaign

This was a great campaign to work on alongside two of my good mates (and clients). ROMAN KEMP interviewed TOM GRENNAN, who did an amazing acoustic performance of his song with the same title as the campaign. The campaign was all about championing mental health awareness and the help that is out there. Go and check it out online now…

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

THE FINISH LINE

I was back in Belfast for 10 days shooting the next series of THE FINISH LINEfor the BBC. 30 episodes were recorded, so very long days, but really great fun and a fantastic team over there - it was great to see them all again. It was the first long stretch I’ve been away from my salon too, so that was a test for the control freak in me! But everything was fine and it made me have even more trust and love for my team.

KEUNE CONTENT SHOOT

I went to Amsterdam to shoot a new content campaign for KEUNE GLOBAL based on upcoming hair trend research. It was a great team and full-on day creating different looks. Now to go through 421 images to pick nine to use... haha!

BERMONDSEY BOXING CLUB

This was such a great location for a really cool collaboration shoot. I can’t reveal much yet, but keep your eyes peeled in upcoming issues for the final images and campaign film…

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

Visit

Kelly Relph welcomes us to her charming haven of artistic expression,

HOBS HAIR & NAIL BAR, WEYMOUTH

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR?

I have a taste for opulence and global influences. When designing the salon interior, I incorporated luxurious materials like velvet, gold accents and unique decor inspired by diverse cultures. I created a cohesive theme that reflects my love for richness and global aesthetics.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN?

Paintings, fashion designers and my love for everything old!  My design is inspired by art galleries, antique markets and anything vintage.

Allowing the salon space to reflect a harmonious blend of artistic expression and classic charm, I incorporated colour schemes from paintings, vintage fabrics in fashion and timeless pieces reminiscent of different eras.

DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?

No,I trusted my own imagination for the salon’s interior design to allow for a unique and authentic expression of my style. I infused my own personality into the salon space.

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR.

The salon’s interior evokes a comforting, warm and welcoming ambiance, creating a cheerful and very relaxing atmosphere. This combination ensures a pleasant experience for our clients, making them feel at ease and enjoy their time in the space.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN?

Wow!My desire for clients to be wowed gave me a focus on creating a visually stunning and captivating environment. My aim was for clients to feel impressed, excited and intrigued by the opulence and unique design elements of Hobs from the moment they enter.

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES IN THE SALON?

Yes, I curated a harmonious colour scheme, comfortable seating, ample natural light and strategically placed mirrors to create an inviting and stylish atmosphere. Incorporating plants and artwork also allowed me to add a touch of sophistication.

HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN?

In our salon design, sustainability is embraced by using eco-friendly materials for furniture and decor, incorporating energy-efficient lighting and implementing water-saving fixtures. We used recycled and upcycled items and low VOC (volatile organic compound) paints to promote a healthier environment. Integrating sustainable practices into daily operations, such as recycling and

reducing waste, further enhances our commitment to an eco-conscious design. We use Carlo Oliveri and Maria Nila professional products, both brands are 100% vegan and biodegradable with recyclable packaging.

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURE OF IT DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL?

The salon software we use is Fresha. It’s known for its online booking feature which streamlines the appointment process, making it efficient for both us and the clients. It helps manage schedules, reduce no-shows and enhances our overall customer experience.

DID YOUR PRODUCT BRAND OR COLOUR HOUSE INFLUENCE YOUR STYLE OF INTERIOR DESIGN?

I wasn’t influenced by them directly, but the brands we use definitely give off a similar vibe to the salon. I wanted to create a cohesive and appealing interior design by prioritising the overall vibe rather than being influenced by specific brands. This approach resulted in a more unique and personalised aesthetic.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY?

Given my penchant for opulence and a love for everything old, I have chosen salon furniture that reflects these themes. Considering pieces with ornate detailing, rich textures and vintage-inspired designs to complement the overall aesthetic of the salon. For me, high-quality and comfortable furniture was crucial to create a luxurious and inviting atmosphere for our clients.

DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE OR UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM?

It’s important to me that I value my team’s individuality, so we have a dress code that allows for personal expression. The team are amazing and all have great style, so I love to see

Kelly would like to thank the following artisans for helping her achieve her dream interior: Joseph Coleman, traditional sign writer; Esther Snell, artist; Nick Limm, vintage upcycler; and John St John, photographer.

‘My happy place is Elgin in Scotland; it’s my home and I have so many fond memories growing up there. I did my apprenticeship there in a salon called Clancy’s, where I had the most amazing training. The salon is no longer there, but I am still friends with the owner, and I am truly grateful for the incredible education I received. My family and best friends are also all from Elgin, we grew up there together and had the most brilliant time – we’re actually all still best friends to this day! I left Elgin in 1995 to pursue my hairdressing career, but it will always be my happy place.’

5minutes with TRACEY ANN SMITH

quick fire favourites

TO WATCH: TED LASSO, SO INSPIRING.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

I love to play padel tennis. It’s something I discovered a few years ago whilst living in Spain and now I’m addicted. I try to play at least 2-3 times a week, and I am very competitive at it! I also love going to the gym frequently, reading a wide variety of books and, most of all, spending time with my family.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION?

My latest collection was all about alignment. I am very spiritual in many ways, so I wanted to feel complete alignment in my career –sort of like the older Tracey creating the collection that the younger Tracey could never do. I

Tracey Ann Smith, ASP Global Ambassador and Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year, talks Paris, perseverance and padel tennis. 1 2 3 4 6 8 5 7

spend a lot of time looking back on my career and thinking about what inspired me along the way. Back then, I didn’t have the ability to create the hair that I wanted to create, but over time I have mastered the skills. This collection was really about looking back through experienced eyes and thinking about how I could bring everything I love about hair to life.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS?

Being crowned Fellowship

Hairdresser of the Year in 2023 for the second time was literally mind-blowing! It was such a huge honour and I will never forget it –especially as it was 10 years since the first time I’d won the same award and I’m only the third ever person to achieve that. I am truly grateful. I have also had many proud moments working with ASP as their Global Ambassador for more than a decade. It’s been an incredible journey and one that I have enjoyed immensely.

TO READ: MARCHING POWDER, A TRUE STORY OF GRIT AND PERSEVERANCE

TO LOOK UP TO: OVERALL, MY DAD. IN THE INDUSTRY, ANTOINETTE BEENDERS.

TO VISIT: THE RUE DE RIVOLI IN PARIS. IT’S AWESOME AND TICKS EVERY BOX FOR ME.

TO LISTEN: HARD HOUSE DANCE VIBES. I STILL LOVE A HAPPY RAVE!

TO EAT: STICKS’N’SUSHI, LONDON.

TO USE: ASP KITOKO OIL TREATMENT, I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT IT.

TO WEAR: I LOVE A PLEAT AND A BIT OF GLITTER.