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SUMMER 2020
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Lockdown lifted
So you’ve been closed since March 24th and now, hopefully, we will all be able to say Happy Hair Independence Day on July 4th when salons will be given the freedom (although somewhat limited) to fully reopen. At the time of writing this, you are all currently awaiting official government guidance but this is a frustratingly long time coming! However, we do all know and accept that the hair salon experience is going to be anything but ‘normal’. Gone are complimentary cappuccinos and the cash tips and possibly even the dry cut and the fringe trim but the industry is ready for any changes that need to happen to keep everyone safe. We have dedicated the first section of this issue to helping you with everything you need to know.
FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag
This bumper Summer issue of Professional Hairdresser is our first ever, all-digital issue which allows us to introduce some exciting new additions to bring the pages to life. Dotted through the magazine you will see this icon (right) Click wherever you see it to watch hairdressers and experts who have made exclusive messages for you the Pro Hair readers!
SUMMER 2020
COVER: Joseph Ferraro PHOTOGRAPHY: Jamie Blanshard
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H TO WATC ! O E ID V THIS
Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk
REGULARS
Assistant Editor
6
Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Rebecca Mcgeoch
LOCKDOWN NEWS Industry ideas and initiatives
BACK TO BUSINESS
rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk
14 GUIDES TO REPOPENING
Designer
15 THE NEW SALON EXPERIENCE
Donna Booth Group Production Manager Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Publisher Bryan Shannon
oshannon@hamerville.co.uk
39 GREEN QUEEN KARINE
73 CURL CONVO Trends and products
PEOPLE 42 HOOKER & YOUNG In conversation with Cos Sakkas
SPECIALS
23 SPOTLIGHT ON PPE for Salons
SPECIALS round-up
20 PPE round-up
88 17 HAIRDRESSERS REVEAL THEIR FAVOURITE IMAGES
46 FRINGES
25 SPOTLIGHT ON Hair Tools
FASHION
Group Sales Manager Oliver Shannon
SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE
52 ON TREND
COLOUR
COLLECTIONS
28 A NEW COLOUR CANVAS Colourists discuss the new salon lanscape Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2020 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.
14,777
July 18 - June 19
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 5
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@ProHairMag
@ProHairMag
Lockdown #AndisNationCares Andis launched a new social media campaign Barbers and stylists are among those who are keeping morale high in the industry and Andis are looking for people who’ve done amazing things to inspire and motivate fellow professionals during the Coronavirus pandemic. This could be anything from educational content on social media, positive/inspirational posts to keep everyone’s spirits high, or tips on how to cope in these unprecedented times. It may be a professional who has done, or is doing, voluntary work in their community or even undertaking a fundraising effort to raise money for the NHS or good causes to help the vulnerable. It could also be those that have had to go the extra mile to help clients and/or staff, or protect a vulnerable family member. We’re looking for barbers and stylists to nominate a fellow pro that they feel deserves some recognition, or they can self-nominate if they are the one who’s done something amazing.
All you have to do to nominate is DM @andiscouk or comment on the post using the hashtag #AndisNationCares – and you will need to provide the handle of the person nominated and tell us what they have done to be considered for a gift. There’s still time - you can do this up to 30th June. Upon receiving stories and nominations, Andis will choose who will be the lucky recipients of a gift card up to the value of £100 for them to treat themselves. This is Andis’s way of recognising and appreciating the efforts of barbers and stylists, so the card will be a pre-loaded MasterCard or Visa card for them to spend on whatever they want. It is not a gift in Andis product, redemptions against products or anything like that. There is also no expectation for the recipient to be identified but we may invite them to tell their story, only if they want to do so.
DONATIONS TO THE NHS As a contribution to help lift the morale of those in the NHS who are helping in every way to overcome this virus, Schwarzkopf Professional have donated more than 18,000 units of hair care products to four NHS hospitals in the UK and Ireland. University Hospital Coventry, Princess Royal Hospital Farnborough, Kings College Hospital London and St James Hospital Dublin all received thousands of hair care and styling products as a small thank you for their incredible efforts.
6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK
TAKING A LOCKDOWN LEAD DURING THIS CRISIS, THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY HAS RALLIED ROUND TO HELP THE NHS AND LOCAL COMMUNITIES. HERE’S A LOOK AT JUST SOME OF THE IDEAS AND INITIATIVES THAT HAVE BEEN HAPPENING OVER THE LAST TEN WEEKS…
SHOWING SUPPORT GREAT LENGTHS LAUNCHED ITS HAIRDOS FOR HEROES INITIATIVE THAT WILL PROVIDE A FREE CUT AND BLOWDRY FOR FRONTLINE WORKERS. Great Lengths are enlisting interest from salons to participate and are offering event planning and kits as well as marketing support to all salons that are involved. Hairdos for Heroes encourages salons across the UK to dedicate one day to providing frontline staff with a free cut and blowdry when it is safe for salons to open and resume service. The free pamper session will reward frontline staff for their amazing and selfless work that has helped us all so much during this time. The campaign will take place nationally on Sunday 6th and Monday 7th September and salons can decide which day they participate or can opt to participate across both days. Salons can register their interest in participating by contacting Great Lengths directly at marketing@greatlengthshair.co.uk. Each participating salon will be listed on the dedicated Hairdos for Heroes web page visit:
www.rdr.link/HQ032
LOCAL HELP
HAIRCARE BRAND ASP DONATED HAIRCARE PRODUCTS AND FACE MASKS TO SOUTHAMPTON GENERAL HOSPITAL IN A BID TO SUPPORT NHS STAFF DURING THE CORONAVIRUS CRISIS.
The British born brand has sent a selection of ASP professional shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks, to nurses at their local NHS hospital, located just over five miles from their head office in Romsey. When the desperate plea went out for PPE for frontline staff, the team also donated their spare, unused facemasks to those working and being treated at the hospital. ASP founder and Managing Director Eric Bailey said: ‘‘This was the least we could do for all the amazing team at Southampton General Hospital. The staff have been working tirelessly during this unprecedented pandemic and this is our way of showing support and immense gratitude.’’ He continues: ‘‘The hairdressing community have all been incredibly supportive during this time of crisis, despite the knock it has had on many businesses, and I feel very proud to be a part of it.’’
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Proxima Nova Bold
Hair Cares ‘EUFORA CARE PACKAGE’ GIFTED TO NHS HEROES THROUGH PASSION4HAIR’S NATIONAL DISTRIBUTION NETWORK.
FREE ADVICE
IN THE BUILD UP TO WHAT IS HOPED WILL BE THE NEW LAUNCH DATE FOR SALONS OPENING, THE TEAM AT WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS PULLED OUT ALL THE STOPS TO OFFER FREE SERVICES TO SALONS, IN A BID TO HELP THEM GET BACK ON THEIR FEET. FREE VIDEO CONSULTATIONS The Advisory Video Consultation appointments are its latest free offering to any Wella hairdresser who needs technical advice once they are back to work. This is an extension of its regular advisory service, but now hairdressers can have a completely free 20 minute consultation, via an Instagram video call, with an experienced technician who will be able to help with any concerns. Each virtual appointment can be booked for with or without the client being present and provides ideal support for the colour correction work that salons are anticipating in the return to work. Appointments will run from 8am-8pm and can be booked online here: www.rdr.link/HQ033
Moved by the amazing, committed work of our NHS Heroes, Debbie Digby, Founder of Passion4hair, reached out to salons across the country for help. The task? To get ‘Eufora Care Packages’ into the hands of NHS staff across the country. Debbie said, “like most people, I know a couple of nurses and hearing the work they are doing and under the conditions they have, I wanted to do something to make a difference. Passion4hair had the product to make a perfect little care pack of handcream, lip balm, dry shampoo and a pocket size brush. Knowing I couldn’t rock up to the local hospital and hand them over, and thinking about how I wanted to get them directly into the hands of NHS staff quickly, I asked my hairdresser friends to help me out.” Over 100 ‘Care Packages’ have been delivered from East Sussex to North Yorkshire and from the Essex coast to Wales. Chloe Vincett-Miller, a Staff Nurse working on the front line at Addenbrokes Hospital, Cambridge sent Debbie a message “thank you for the care package, sorry it has taken a few days to message, I have been on nights and it’s all been a bit manic but I am super grateful. Such a lovely gesture and a nice reminder of how grateful people are.”
CRISIS MANAGEMENT IN ONGOING SUPPORT OF THE FIGHT AGAINST CORONAVIRUS, L’ORÉAL UK AND IRELAND IMPLEMENTED A SERIES OF MEASURES FOR COMMUNITIES MOST IMPACTED BY THE CRISIS. The group and its family of brands has donated more than half a million hygiene products and hand sanitisers to frontline healthcare workers in UK and Ireland serving the most vulnerable people and striving to curb the pandemic. The group will donate a further 300,000 hand sanitisers to frontline retail staff that is ensuring availability of essential goods and services to communities across UK and Ireland. These products will be provided completely free of charge. Specifically for the Hairdressing Industry, L’Oréal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland, including brands such as L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken, Kérastase and Matrix, will supply over 100,000 hand sanitisers and over one million protective masks, which will be available to order on L’Oréal Partner Shop to help salons reopen safely. The division has also created a Hygiene and Safety E-learning training on its Education platform Access – already completed by over 5,000 hairdressers, and £1 of every completed training up to the first 10,000 will be donated to the UK Hair and Beauty Charity, to help those most in need at this time.
Béatrice Dautzenberg, Managing Director L’Oréal Professional Products Division “During the pandemic L’Oréal UK & Ireland put in place important measures to support the most vulnerable, including a donation of over half a million hygiene products and hand sanitisers to frontline healthcare workers and a further 300,000 to retail staff. These frontline workers have and are doing an incredible job looking after the sick and we feel honoured to have been able to provide them with hand sanitisers and key hygiene products. Specifically for our incredible Industry, we also wanted to ensure that we are supporting those most in need at this time - our Access Hygiene & Safety E-learning, now completed by over 5,000 hairdressers, is donating £1 for every completed training up to 10,000 to the UK Hair & Beauty Charity and in Ireland to Look Good Feel Better. We want to reinforce our total solidarity to beauty professionals who are facing many challenges - now more than ever, coming together with a strong sense of community to support our Industry is paramount.”
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L’ORÉAL ACCESS WELCOME TO A WONDERLAND OF CONTENT AND EXCITEMENT! L’ORÉAL ACCESS, A HUB OF INSPIRATION AND E-LEARNING DEDICATED TO HAIRDRESSING PROFESSIONALS, THAT FIRST LAUNCHED IN THE UK, OFFERS A WEALTH OF VIRTUAL EDUCATION AND HAS ENSURED THAT ALL HAIRDRESSERS HAVE BEEN ABLE TO CONTINUE IN THEIR TRAINING, DEVELOPMENT AND BE INSPIRED DURING LOCKDOWN.
learning platform Access is your FREE online Be inspired by our artists and
teams
Learn the latest technologies
and innovations
r hand 24/7 Education in the palm of you business Discover how to grow your Book your classroom courses Join us for live webinars One hub, transforming how
we learn
App to Download the new Access re stay educated anytime, anywhe
Discover trending content and be inspired by over 2,500 pieces of education available including bite-size e-learnings, live webinars and in depth technical courses.
Join a community of over 32, 000 UK and Ireland stylists and over 100K globally!
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ADVERTORIAL
benefited My whole team have enjoyed and kdown. For me from using Access throughout Loc ng to be even now going back to the salon is goi e with short 1-2 hour easier to keep everyone up to dat into our working sessions That easily can be fitted ntime. day making the most out of dow E MARSHALL SALON MICHELLE MARSHALL, MICHELL
Almost 50,000 courses have been completed on Access already this year!
S O W H AT ’ S T R E N D I N G O N A C C E S S AT T H E M O M E N T ? Access is your FREE online learning platform For an A-Z of learning download the Access App to help you stay educated and ready to reopen! L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL: COLOUR ESSENTIALS COLLECTION (LEARNING PLAN) DISCOVER THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HAIR COLOUR PORTFOLIO TO OFFER A TRULY UNIQUE LOOK FOR YOUR CLIENTS
REDKEN SHADES EQ GLOSS: FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE INCREDIBLE BENEFITS OF USING SHADES EQ HAIR COLOR
KÉRASTASE BLOND ABSOLU: FIND OUT HOW TO ELIMINATE THAT BRASSINESS TO GIVE A CLEAN LUXURIOUS BLONDE
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL: COLOUR KEYS 1 AND 2 MASTER THE KEY FUNDAMENTALS OF COLOUR TO GET GREAT RESULTS EVERYTIME
I would definitely recommend Access to other salons… it’s a brilliant tool, its changed the way that we learn and kept us up to
date with new things which I think is fantastic. REBECCA ADAMS, THE CHAPEL
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 9
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L’ O R É A L A C C E S S H Y G I E N E & S A F E T Y GET READY FOR THE REOPENING OF YOUR SALON POST COVID-19
NEW HYGIENE & SAFETY E-LEARNING & CERTIFICATE** : L’Oréal UK and Ireland has launched a free Hygiene and Safety e-learning training on its online education platform Access, which is open to all salons and hairdressers!
GET READY. FEEL CONFIDENT. AND SHARE ACROSS SOCIAL MEDIA AND WITH YOUR CLIENTS.
30
MINUTE INTERACTIVE E-LEARNING MODULE!
OVER 5000 ACCESS HYGIENE & SAFETY E-LEARNING CERTIFICATES ALREADY COMPLETED! Feel confident to reopen your salon post lockdown by taking the L’Oréal Access Hygiene & Safety E-learning course and get your certificate today!
LEARN ABOUT ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW: RECOMMENDATIONS FOR IN SALON HYGIENE ● PERSONAL HYGIENE FOR THE STYLIST PROTECTIVE HYGIENE FOR THE CLIENT
FOR EVERY CERTIFICATE COMPLETED, L’ORÉAL WILL DONATE £1/€1 TO THE HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY (UK) OR LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER (ROI) UP TO THE FIRST 10,000 COMPLETED TRAININGS
rning to help prepare the team for retu E-learning has been really useful ety Saf & iene Hyg ess Acc l réa The L’O styling stations, to print and laminate this to sit on king thin are we and at gre lly to work. The certificate is especia lth and safety. steps we are taking to prioritise hea the all on nce fide con nt clie e which will help to reinforc SONS LUKE HERSHESON, CEO HERSHE
** Please note that any certificates provided by L’Oréal (UK) Limited are not official accreditation for any regulated course and are not formalised by any external third party.
TO SIGN UP TO THE LEARNING COURSES CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION
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Access is an amazing educationa l platform and it’s so beneficial in many ways – especially the new Hygiene and Safety E-learning program. All of our team have com pleted it and have their certificate, which they are posting proudly on social media, which in turn will let our clients see that we as a team are taking positive steps towards having a safe environment for them to retu rn to. ALAN EDWARDS ALAN EDWARD S SALON
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W H AT I S S A L O N E M O T I O N ? AN UPSKILLING INITIATIVE THAT HELPS SALONS RE-IMAGINE THEIR CLIENT JOURNEY, CONNECTING THE ONLINE AND OFFLINE WORLDS ACROSS FOUR PILLARS OF TRANSFORMATION:
Physical
Digital
Emotional
Sustainable
OUR MISSION IS TO DISRUPT THE INDUSTRY BY TRANSFORMING THE CONSUMER EXPERIENCE IN SALONS.
It has been so important to stay connected right through this crisis and L’Oréal felt that the best way to connect and interact with the Salon Emotion Community was through social media. As a result, we are excited to have launched a local Salon Emotion Instagram page: @salonemotionuki.
the salon has maintained a Since the Salon Emotion training, of Google reviews. n a 33% increase in the number see has and 4.9 of ng Rati ogle Go JENNIE JOYCE AT JENIOSA
Since the Salon Emotion upskilling, the salon has seen a 19% increase in Google Ratings and a 243% increase in Google Reviews. GARY WILDE AT WILDE ABOUT HAIR
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ADVERTORIAL
G O I N G D I G I TA L
During lockdown L’Oréal launched the Salon e-motion WEBINAR series on ACCESS. Over the last 10 weeks, we have run a number of LIVE, interactive webinars hosted by L’Oréal experts across a variety of different topics.
Content ranged from Mindfulness Meditation to Digital Upskilling on Google My Business to Social Media Tips & Tricks and Consumer Insights.
U S I N G D I G I TA L T O E N H A N C E T H E C L I E N T J O U R N E Y During lockdown, there has been a greater importance placed on a salon’s digital presence to stay connected, reassure existing clients and attract new ones. Many salons have embraced virtual consultations to share their professional expertise with clients from home. Others have focused on refreshing their social media channels and updating their website.
+3%
AVERAGE SALON GOOGLE RATING*
Salons that have attended the Salon Emotion Upskilling event
The Salon e-motion webinars are a fantastic tool. The information & expert advice has been really helpful; it was great to listen to other people’s comments and ideas and gain some perspective as to what we’re up against. We have launched virtual consultations with our clients using the Salon e-motion Assets & PRO-scription card. We are hosting consultations on FaceTime and Zoom. The expert tips made the whole process a lot more manageable and given us a lot more confidence going forward. GARY WILDE @ WILDE ABOUT HAIR Please note that through any information supplied within any guides, this article, any courses offered or any other means, L’Oréal (UK) Limited is not providing legal or financial or other advice. This information is not a substitute for obtaining independent legal or financial or other advice from any relevant third party such as an appointed accountant, solicitor or bank. L’Oréal wanted to amass some information & resources in one easy place. You should, of course, not rely on any information, and ensure you have undertaken your own independent research alongside it.
+42%
number of salon Google reviews* Salons that have attended the Salon Emotion Upskilling event.
We know the positive impact that customer reviews can have on attracting new clients. Our Salon Emotion training helps salons create a seamless in-salon and digital experience for clients. SOCIAL MEDIA ALLOWS US TO ENGAGE WITH ALL SALONS, SHARE RECOMMENDATIONS AND CELEBRATE SUCCESS ON OUR VENTURE TO DISRUPT THE SALON INDUSTRY. JOIN OUR SALON EMOTION COMMUNITY AND FOLLOW US FOR THE LATEST UPDATES & TRENDS @SALONEMOTIONUKI Source: *All figures for Goolge reviews and Google ratings are based on an average from a sample of 597 salons, measured over a period of three to six months after each salon had attended the Salon Emotion roadshow 2019.
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Schwarzkopf Professsional www.rdr.link/HQ025
THE GREEN LIGHT
Salon Success www.rdr.link/HQ026
Your industry brands take the helm to help you navigate the reopening guidelines!
www.rdr.link/HQ027
“The day has finally arrived and you are back to doing what you absolutely love. With still many uncertainties ahead, you can be certain of this, Kao Salon Division is with you all the way. There is no roadmap for the future, but we will continue to be your trusted business partner, your compass to help you navigate through these unchartered waters. We will celebrate with you along the way as we work together to get your business and the industry back to recovery. Bring the next challenge on, we can conquer it together.” Julie Winchester, General Manager, Kao Salon Division UK, Ireland and South Africa
NHBF
“The wonderful camaraderie seen in our industry over recent months has been incredible, extending between clients and salons, peer to peer support and the many wonderful examples of manufacturers innovating projects and launches to support salons across the world. It has been exhilarating to be a part of and for all our sakes let’s continue with it as our industry fights to come back stronger than ever.” Julian Crane, General Manager, Henkel Beauty Care Professional UK & Ireland.
KAO
Revlon Professional “Our customers are at the heart of everything that JOICO does and throughout the recent global challenge we have supported the industry through education, business initiatives and return to work support. The entire industry has joined together to support one another – there is strength in our unity. The appreciation for our industry has never been greater and we are committed to supporting professionals to ensure we all come back stronger.” Eric Kater, General Manager, JOICO EMEA Division Beauty Care Professional
www.rdr.link/HQ028
www.rdr.link/HQ030
Joico
www.rdr.link/HQ031
L’Oreal Professionnel
For our incredible Industry, we wanted to ensure that we are www.rdr.link/HQ029 supporting those most in need at this time – our Access Hygiene & Safety E-learning, now completed by over 5,000 hairdressers, is donating £1 for every completed training up to 10,000 to the UK Hair & Beauty Charity and in Ireland to Look Good Feel Better. We want to reinforce our total solidarity to beauty professionals who are facing many challenges – now more than ever, coming together with a strong sense of community to support our Industry is paramount.” Beatrice Dautzenburg L’Oréal Professionnel
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BACK TO BUSINESS
THE NEW NORMAL THE SQUARE, SEVENOAKS Owner Ben Hards explains “We are ready to return to work safely now and we literally cannot wait to open our doors again and welcome back our clients! We are putting in place several changes to keep our amazing team and guests safe. Throughout this time we have been working closely with our partner L’Oréal Pro who have produced back to business support guides, created hand sanitiser and secured PPE such as masks, as well as regularly fixing video calls which has all been fantastic.”
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So, you’ve been given the green light, this is moment all salon owners have been waiting for – unlocking the doors and welcoming your clients back! We’ve spoken to several salon owners to discover how they are adapting the salon environment to reopen safely.
ARRIVING AT THE SALON The Square will be communicating with each client before they attend their appointment so that each individual knows what to expect before they enter the salon, with reminders about social distancing and new hygiene measures for client safety. CHECK-IN AND RECEPTION The Square will ensure that appointment times are staggered to avoid congestion at the front desk. Upon arrival, clients will be asked to use the hand sanitizer provided and wear the appropriate personal protective equipment which we be given to clients to wear throughout the appointment. Clients will be greeted by their Stylist and will remain with that staff member for the entirety of their visit. The Square will continue to adapt rules in accordance with government guidelines. CONSULTATION Stylists will conduct short consultations in-salon or virtually prior to appointments to reduce the amount of time that clients will spend in the salon. BACKWASH The Square has installed protective glass screens at the backwash and in-between stations and will be observing social
distancing by blocking off some backwash stations, and each backwash station will be cleaned and disinfected after every appointment. CLIENT SERVICES We are expecting there to be an increased demand for services such as colour correction and we will be allowing additional time in-between services to cater to this need and time for cleaning in-between appointments. RETAIL The salon will use signage in retail areas and around the salon asking clients not to touch products. We will ask that if a client wishes to purchase a product, they should ask their Stylist, who will wipe products down before placing in a bag for the client to take home at the end of the appointment. CHECK-OUT The Square will be accepting contactless card payments and no cash. Contactless payments will be taken at styling stations and at the reception desk to help streamline appointments. The salon is also looking into online pre-paid appointments. All touchpoints of each client appointment and all tools used will be cleaned and disinfected after each appointment
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ON ARRIVAL Hand sanitisers will be placed throughout the client journey, with a sanitisation zone at the entry to the salon. Door handles, credit card machines, salon chairs and sections will be thoroughly sanitised between each client.
HOB SALONS Clive Collins, Director of HOB Salons “No one truly knows what the ‘new normal’ is going to be like for salons when we reopen for our clients. But we have worked hard throughout lockdown to ensure clients and team members are safe when we open and clients continue to enjoy their visit to the salon and leave feeling absolutely amazing.”
RECEPTION AND CHECKING IN We will be tweaking our appointment times to stagger when clients arrive, so each client will have at least one hour for an appointment. We are allowing time between each client for our new sanitising routine and will be asking all our clients to arrive on time. If they are late we may not be able to accommodate them. CONSULTATION Safety is our number one priority, but so is making sure clients leave the salon looking and feeling great. We will listen to what they want but also what they need. We will consider their new lifestyle and how frequently they can return to the salon. We will be offering Olaplex to every
client over the phone when they book in their appointment. We will also be holding appointments via Zoom and House Party. BACKWASH We will be using every other basin due to social distancing. The client will remain in their styling chair until they are called to the backwash when it is free. We won’t be offering treatments due to timings. SERVICE All our team members will be wearing visors and the apprentices will be wearing disposable masks or visors. Clients have a responsibility to bring in their own masks. We will have kits that clients can purchase if they don’t have a mask. Disposable gowns and towels will be used and social distancing guidelines will be adhered to. RETAIL If you are investing in your client’s hair, make sure they are investing too, by using the current homecare products such as colour saving shampoo and conditioner. Many will have highlights that have turned brassy, or their hair lacks shine or volume, so recommending the right haircare regime is essential.
CHECKING OUT We are encouraging our clients to rebook their next appointment straight away as it will be more important than ever before. We want to make sure their cut and colour is always looking fantastic and don’t want them missing appointments or going too long before they visit us again. We will be offering all our clients 10% off their next appointment if they book it there and then before leaving the salon.
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BACK TO BUSINESS
HARE & BONE Sam Burnett, owner of HARE & BONE salon talks us through his new client journey.
ON ARRIVAL ● For the foreseeable future we will only be accepting pre booked appointments, no walk-ins. ● We will still give our clients a big friendly welcome just with no contact. ● Our Team will be wearing appropriate PPE including a face mask and visor for safety. ● We will ask clients in advance to please arrive on time for appointments and to wait outside where they will be promptly greeted. ● Each client will be required to have their temperature taken and provided with a face mask before being invited inside by a member of our team. ● We have kindly asked clients to attend appointments alone, as unfortunately we cannot currently accommodate friends, children or pets. ● We have provided sanitiser stations at the entrance and will require clients to sanitise hands before entry. RECEPTION AND CHECKING IN ● Clients will be guided directly to their designated workstation for their sole use and where personal belongings will be safely stored during the salon visit. ● Clients will be gowned up and provided with all the appropriate PPE. ● We have asked clients to add us to their phone contacts just in case we need to update them regarding arrival times. CONSULTATION ● We will still offer the full Hare & Bone consultation, carried out at the designated workstation. ● Stylists will confirm the core services that have been prepaid and agree any additional services required. ● Protective screens have been fitted between workstations for safety and peace of mind. ● Clients who request a restyle, colour change or have used home hair colour may be required to have a virtual consultation prior to booking, that will be carried out in advance of their salon appointment. ● We have added in time between appointments to allow for thorough cleaning so waiting times may be longer than usual.
BACKWASH EXPERIENCE Protective screens have been fitted between Backwash loungers for safety and peace of mind. ● The Backwash basin and lounger will be fully sanitised between uses. ● Where possible stylists will carry out the backwash experience. ● On occasions an assistant is carrying out the backwash experience they will be wearing fresh PPE with sanitised hands. ● We will continue to use environmentally friendly biodegradable single use towels. ●
RETAIL ● Our Front of House Team will be wearing appropriate PPE including gloves during the entire visit. ● We politely ask our guests not to touch the retail displays. ● Stylists will offer retail advice during service that will be prepared by our Front of House Team. ● All retail purchases will be sanitised before they are handed over. CHECKING OUT, PAYMENT AND GOODBYE ● When possible, we will complete checkout at designated workstation to avoid waiting and congregation at the desk. ● We are accepting card and contactless payments only. No cash. ● We will ask clients to have diaries to hand for a smooth rebooking and departure. ● If preferred, we will happily follow up with a curtesy call or email at a time of convivence to rebook future appointments. ● Once we are completely satisfied our new service times and team shift patterns are operating safely and effectively, we will re-open Online Booking. ● When exiting the salon, we ask clients to sanitise their hands at the sanitiser stations provided.
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HELP WITH
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL Products Division has produced the L’Oréal Professionnel Purifying Cleansing Gel in a 400ml size and will supply over 100,000 of this alcohol-based purifying hand gel and more than a million protective masks, which hairdressing salons can order along with technical and retail products via L’Oréal’s customer service team or online via the L’Oréal Partner Shop. www.rdr.link/HQ001
PPE
ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS HAND HYGIENE Available to Pre-order now at https://www.organiccoloursystem s.com/contact/ Herb UK has launched its own Hand Sanitiser Range in a Spray and Gel format to support salons and equip them with a new hygiene procedure. To match their company ethos, the products were formulated using naturally derived ingredients to decrease bacteria that can cause diseases. Together with this, there are branded standing and wall mounted sanitation stations that are available for the Salon, designed to fit the 900ml Hand Sanitising Gel Bottle perfectly. The 900ml Hand Sanitising Gel contains 70% alcohol for fast acting and drying, as well as Vitamin E for moisturising and conditioning properties for those hard working hands. The 150ml Hand Sanitising Spray holds 80% alcohol for faster acting and drying, with no waste sprays. It also consists of 99% naturally derived ingredients for an organic moisturising feel. www.rdr.link/HQ002
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ECO TO GO FOOD PACKS has developed a disposable and recyclable cardboard face visor. The Eco Staysafe Shield, which is suitable for the hair industry, is adjustable to accommodate most head sizes. It also features a two position forehead band to allow additional room for eyewear. The frame is made from solid biodegradable cardboard whilst the visor window is of an anti-mist treated recyclable polyester material. For environmentally friendly disposal, the film window needs to be removed from the cardboard frame and recycled separately. For more information on the Eco Staysafe Shield or Eco To Go Food Packs call Eco To Go on 0330 058 2927 or visit: www.ecotogofoodpacks.co.uk/product/eco-staysafe-shield/ www.rdr.link/HQ003
Providing antibacterial hand sanitiser will be just one of many measures that will be required by salons to help stop the spread of Covid-19 and other known viruses. For £59.99 the SHAVEDOCTOR Back To Work Business Bundle includes 1 x 5 Litre Bottle with Pump, 2 x 500ml Bottles with Pump, 5 x 75ml Bottles with Fliptop Cap and 1 x 250ml Multi Surface Sanitiser Spray. The new Shavedoctor Antibacterial Multi Surface Sanitiser Spray created for hard and soft surfaces and developed with 80% alcohol is now available to order on the website and ready to ship from Monday 22nd June: www.shavedoctor.co.uk www.rdr.link/HQ004
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BACK TO BUSINESS
BREATHE + PROTECT FACEMASKS have been created with a minimal design boasting style and safety that has been carefully considered to allow us all to adapt to a new way of living. Created for fashion-conscious consumers and brands looking for a design-led aesthetic with efficacy at its heart, facemasks are adjustable to fit every face shape, made from organic cotton, come in a 5 colourways and incorporate an optional five-layer carbon filter for an added layer of protection. FEATURES: ● Minimal design aesthetic boasting a pleated shape for a structured fit ● Internal (optional) filter pouch to house the PM2.5 filter ● Fluid and cough particle resistant ● Reduces CO2 ● Eliminates heat and moisture ● Adjustable toggle to fit every face ● Outer fabric in organic cotton / breathable organic cotton liner
FILTER SYSTEM: Each mask comes with 2 replaceable PM2.5 filters (these are 95% effective, fluid and cough particle resistant and eliminate bacteria, dust, pollen, vehicle emissions, industrial pollution and pet dander). Each facemask boasts a five-layer filter system that should be changed every 16-24 hours, comprising of: Smooth non-woven layer dust filtration system Fine filter cloth High-grade activated carbon Fine particle filtration layer Final non-woven layer deep filtration system
effective communication while greatly reducing the risk of passing or contracting the corona virus. A key item of personal protective equipment (PPE), the HeroShield can be worn on its own or in conjunction with other protective items such as masks, head coverings and protective gowns. As the virus can be contracted through the eyes and nose as well as the mouth, the HeroShield The HeroShield comes differs from masks in that it flat-packed in packs of 5 for £25.00. The easy to assemble protects the entire face while at HeroShield offers you instant, the same time, not impeding cost-effective and speech. *Easily cleaned, the trustworthy protection re-usable HeroShield can be to you, your staff and disinfected and re-used, even Developed for use in your clients. between clients. the NHS, DENMAN’s Plus, as part of the Denman HeroShield is a medical Group’s commitment to support health grade protective faceguard now and frontline workers, 5% of all sales available for hairdressers and barbers. generated by the Hero Shield are Visibility and being able to talk with donated to the Hero Shield’s charity clients are crucially important to which will supply free shields and other hairdressers, but the close contact PPE to the most vulnerable frontline needed to deliver services can possibly workers. put operators and clients at risk of See more information here: contamination during the COVID-19 https://heroshield.net/ For Further pandemic. information visit denmanbrush.com Comfortable to wear, the **EU Or contact: sales@denmanbrush.com certified HeroShield is designed to www.rdr.link/HQ006 enable clear unobstructed vision and *HeroShield visor can be washed in hot soapy water and disinfected with alcohol wipes or isopropyl alcohol. The headband component can also be washed hot soapy water and disinfected using suitable soaks or sprays. **HeroShield is CE marked. EU declaration of conformity to REGULATION (EU) 2016/425 Personal Protective Equipment (Classification: PPE Class I) will be provided with product
BESPOKE CORPORATE BRANDING: All Breathe + Protect Facemasks can be designed with bespoke company logos (instead of the Breathe logo) ensuring brands can remain true to their own brand aesthetic. For wholesale/bespoke brading pricing and enquiries:ashley@37studios.co.uk / 07800 880795 Visit breatheandprotect.com Facebook: @Breathe-and-Protect Instagram: @breatheandprotect www.rdr.link/HQ005
In response to the ongoing COVID–19 crisis, garden screen and accessories brand SCREEN WITH ENVY will be launching its first ever range of protective partitions. This specialist range has been created in response to the Coronavirus crisis to help businesses opening their doors post lockdown. Famous for its range of modern, outdoor screening and garden accessories, the brand has now ventured into new territory in response to the global pandemic, putting its expertise in quality screening to help businesses run safely in a post-lockdown society. Available from the end of July, the partitions have been expertly designed to create a safe area in a salon, allowing both clients and staff to operate safely. The brand will also be offering Perspex panels to slot into its range of outdoor screens. Measuring 20000 mm x 1200 mm, the partitions are made of Perspex, which can be wiped cleaned and disinfected with ease. The panels also come with an aluminium frame and feet, providing the upmost quality, strength, and durability. Available in four versatile and stylish designs, the partition can be used at any angle, fitting effortlessly within any space and aesthetic. Screen With Envy Covid Screen – available from £450.00 – screenwithenvy.co.uk www.rdr.link/HQ007
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PPE SPOTLIGHT
SAFE SUPPLIES If you’re still looking for PPE, read this...
PPE for Salons is a one stop shop for all the PPE a salon needs, providing essential items to make the ‘new norm’ salon life that little bit safer. Its offerings include plastic gowns, plastic aprons, disposable and washable masks, social distancing floor tape, and different types of sanitiser. All its products have been road tested to offer a practical salon-friendly option, that will provide the protection that’s needed against viruses, so you can do what you do best, and make the nation look and feel fabulous again. DISPOSABLE MASKS Its 3 ply disposable non-woven face masks are perfect for clients and the team. Elastic ear loops ensure they won’t budge, and each mask has 3 layers of breathable material to ensure you can work comfortably whilst protecting yourself. Masks have the CE mark and are FDA certified. RRP £39.99 for 50 REUSABLE WASHABLE MASKS – BLACK If you’re after a mask that you can use multiple times and just keep washing, then its Washable Masks are ideal. Masks are made from a comfortable polyurethane material and have a built in breathing valve and a duel layer filter system for ventilation. These masks are one size and have stretch ear loops to easily fit all face shapes. Masks can be hand or machine washed repeatedly, without losing their shape. Simply air dry and you’re ready to hit the salon. Masks are CE and FDA certified. RRP £5.99 for 10
PLASTIC DISPOSABLE APRONS Protect your clothes whilst working in the salon and eliminate any risk of viruses lingering on fabric, with a simple disposable apron. Each apron measures 92cm (W) by 130cm. RRP £29.95 for 100 PLASTIC DISPOSABLE GOWNS A simple disposable solution for protecting your client whilst in the salon. Each gown measures120cm (W) by 160cm (L) and will offer a protective layer whilst you’re cutting and colouring, without the worry of any virus’s living on fabric. RRP £29.95 for 100 SALON ESSENTIALS SANITISER GEL 70% alcohol sanitiser gel in a handy pump bottle. Formulated with Rosemary, Sage & Cypress essential oils. This hydro-alcohol cleansing gel is for use without water. Formulated with Rosemary, Sage & Cypress essential oils to soothe the senses and prevent skin from drying. 70% alcohol content which can help to reduce bacteria on the skin. RRP: £9.99 (300ml)
CONNECT WITH PPE FOR SALONS ● WEB: WWW.PPEFORSALONS.COM ● EMAIL: HELLO@PPEFORSALONS.COM INSTAGRAM: @PPEFORSALONSUK ● FACEBOOK: PPE FOR SALONS Find out more at www.rdr.link/HQ008 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23
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SPOTLIGHT
GREEN CLEAN It’s time to switch to vegan and environmentally conscious disinfection products. The new DISICIDE® brand available from Hair Tools through your wholesaler is the only disinfectant brand on the market to meet the tough criteria to be able to offer disinfection products that are Vegan and have the Green Salon certification. These disinfection products are uniquely manufactured with an environmental focus, using a water base with no solvents, are free from animal ingredients, never tested on animals, and contain no harmful substances. Disicide® products also contain no substances that are problematic to humans or to the environment allowing your salon to keep to the high hygiene standards we must all adhere to post lockdown as well as maintaining a positive environmental impact.
A DISINFECTING DREAM The Disicide® range consists of:
New Starter Kit White which contains Large Glass Jar 1100 ml, Disicide Concentrate, 1500 ml, Disicide Spray 1000 ml, and Disicide Wipes 100 pcs within a neat storage box.
New Starter kit Blue which contains Medium Glass Jar 750 ml, Small Glass Jar 160 ml, Disicide Concentrate 1500 ml, Disicide Spray 300 ml, and Makeup Brush cleaner 150 ml within a neat storage box.
The New Disicide® Skin Disinfectant is an antiseptic treatment and disinfection of the hands, body, feet before the start of salon procedures and after their completion and proven effective against bacteria and virus. Prevention of fungal and staphylococcal infections, etc. Cleans and disinfects the skin without causing damage.
Disicide® concentrate is a hospital grade disinfectant that is vegan and environmentally friendly. It is water based, solvent free and alcohol free. The unique, extensively researched and tested formula replaces alcohol to effectively kill bacteria and virus in accordance with EU regulations EN 1500, EN 13727 and EN 13624. Proven effective against bacteria and virus. Disinfectant, fungicide and virucide.
Disicide® wipes are ready-to-use, soft paper wipes to disinfect and clean surfaces in the salon. The wipes are saturated with water-based, alcohol free and solvent free disinfectant proven effective against bacteria and virus. Works effectively after two minutes. 100 wipes per container.
Disicide® spray is a ready-to-use disinfectant spray with trigger head for all salons. Proven effective against bacterias and virus, it works quickly and evaporates without leaving traces on the treated surface or on the metal object. The water-based, solvent free product has a mild odour.
● ●
100% Vegan Certified Kills 99.9% of germs in just 30 minutes. Proven effective against virus and bacteria. ● Alcohol and Solvent Free - No harsh chemical smells, Non-Hazardous, Non-Flammable, Safer overall
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Environmentally Friendly: Safe Hair Salon certified – no substances that are problematic to humans or the environment. Water based rather than ethanol based ● Cost Effective: Double concentrate. 30ml concentrate to 1000ml water.
All Disicide® products are available now to purchase from your wholesaler, or www.rdr.link/HQ009
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SPOTLIGHT
colour COUNTING
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Take control of your colour business
reated by leading colourists, Vish is a complete colour management system designed to maximise profits, ensure consistent colour and pricing, track and order stock, and eliminate waste. Salon businesses typically rely on manual systems to manage colour formulas, professional product stock, and the amount of colour dispensed per service. This leads to a high level of waste, lost revenue and reduced profits. By automatically updating the client’s profile and formulas, and ensuring they are billed correctly for all services performed, Vish allows colourists to focus on consistently creating the perfect colour – every time. Vish is comprised of a Bluetooth-enabled weighing scale at the dispensary connected to its Colour Bar on a tablet, cloud based dashboard, and Front Desk application. Without changing the way colour is mixed, it is able to track, manage and analyse everything about your colour business. Vish’s colour bar app at your dispensary captures all of the detailed colour information when anyone mixes colour. This includes the weight, ingredients used, and waste. All of the detailed colour formulas are recorded in the app so they can be recreated exactly the same later, whilst refining the formula to eliminate waste. The insight into each employee’s use of colour is displayed on the Vish Dashboard, allowing you to see which stylists are most efficient when it comes to waste and cost per service, giving you the data to help coach your team and continue to reduce your waste and become more profitable.
“Data tells the complete story, and with Vish software managing their colour business, salons have found they can gather all the information they need to run their colour businesses efficiently, sustainably, and profitably.”
For more information on Vish visit www.rdr.link/HQ010
One major contributor to lost profit is forgetting to charge your clients for the services they actually had – rather than what they booked. Vish creates a digital ticket that gives an accurate price breakdown of the services provided and amount of product used, then automatically updates to Vish Front Desk, ensuring you never undercharge your clients or miss out on revenue again. Many salons use the typical hair colour pricing structure of combining the average colour cost across all customers with employee costs to provide pricing for each service. But thanks to colour usage data gathered via Vish, salons are now able to see exactly how much product is being used for each service, what it costs, and charge clients accordingly.
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A New Colour Canvas COLOURING APPOINTMENTS ARE SET TO BE VASTLY DIFFERENT IN A POST LOCKDOWN SALON. COLOUR SERVICES HAVE HAD TO BE RE-EVALUATED DUE TO THE LENGTH OF TIME AND CLOSE CONTACT THAT IS INVOLVED. CHECK OUT HOW THIS GROUP OF EXPERIENCED COLOURISTS SEE THINGS PANNING OUT OVER THE WEEKS AND MONTHS TO COME…
Clayde Baumann, Global Colour Director at D&J Ambrose, Pinner Firstly, have you got all your new colour procedures in place for re-opening? Yes. Our primary focus is keeping the client and the colourist safe and healthy so we are implementing stricter health and safety procedures and mandatory Personal Protective equipment (which has already been purchased). Hand washing is mandatory for both colourist and client before and during each process. We are also focussing on correction packages for those clients who have ‘taken matters into their own hands’ to get their hair back into mint condition. Can you run us through a time-line for what a new typical colour service will look like from start to finish. As always a detailed consultation is pivotal. We are going to focus on customer service excellence to encourage the spend in the salon and offer a comprehensive list of services and products. We are also going to be making in-salon conditioning treatments and home care vital in our recommendation process. We are not offering refreshment in the initial weeks to safeguard both client and colourist. We’ve implemented procedures to ensure towels are sterile and for the interim we are using disposable gowns until government regulation stipulates that there is little to no risk anymore. Subject to guidelines we may implement a rota that allows for the 2 metre social distancing so in anticipation we are forming teams that can rotate on the week. What are the time restrictions and are you allowing more time than before for each service and therefore, will you be charging more? We are allowing 15 minutes extra on either side of an
appointment but don’t feel this is fair to charge the client more in a potentially financial crisis.
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Do you think you’ll see a rise in shorter services that cut processing time? If so, what will you be using? This is very likely so we will be reviewing and highlighting express services like temporary colour and semi-permanent glossing services. We are however anticipating a high number of major makeovers as a result of the lockdown
What do you think the most requested colour service will be for the first few weeks of re-opening? Root Maintenance Applications for grey coverage and highlight regrowth. Do you think the new restrictions will hamper your creativity? Nothing can hamper my creativity - a new challenge can actually stimulate you to think of creative ways to apply your colour and make more money after such a long time away from work. In such strange times do you see a colour trend emerging for the rest of the summer or will it be a case of just getting clients back to feeling good about their hair? I can’t be sure. One can never say with absolute certainty - but I have a feeling that, budget-allowing, clients will want the works to make themselves feel good - I am predicting a rise in fashion applications and total makeovers. Capitalising on this can save our industry from the heavy losses we’ve sustained from this terrible disease. I am eternally optimistic!
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COLOUR
Tim Scott-Wright, Owner of The Hair Surgery in Stourbridge Firstly, have you got all your new colour procedures in place for re-opening? With reopening after lockdown obviously a lot of procedures, certainly colour procedures, will be slightly different. We have got all these new colour procedures in place and obviously this will be more limited by time rather by than restrictive measures on what we can do.
I definitely think that the most requested service when we reopen will be covering up client greys. People have gone a long time in between visits so we will be using a lot more colour than before, so I do believe that this needs to be reflected in the price that we’re charging as well for these services. I’m hopeful that the restrictions that we’ll have in place won’t affect our creativity.
Can you run us through a time-line Click here H C for what a new typical colour Do you think the new restrictions TO WAT EO! will hamper your creativity? service will look like from start to THIS VID finish. We’re a very creative bunch of When a client comes in for a typical colour service, I do people, so I hope that we can keep this in mind as well think that it’s going to be a slightly different service in as just doing the service that clients have been terms of how we are able to do consultations. The client desperate for whilst we’ve been in lockdown. So I do will have to be gowned up straight away and in full PPE, hope that we can still be as creative as we were before. I we would normally do this after a consultation but this think in such uncertain times it will be a case of getting will need to be done straight away. We’re not sure yet of people back in the salon to get the essentials done, cuts whether we’re going to have to wash the hair first before and colours and get their hair looking fabulous again. a colour service, this would of course have a big impact on the whole processing time, especially if you’re In such strange times do you see a colour trend applying scalp bleaches as we don’t normally do this on emerging for the rest of the summer or will it be a case freshly washed hair. of just getting clients back to feeling good about their hair? What are the time restrictions and are you allowing I’m not sure if new trends that are emerging will filter more time than before for each service and therefore, through in the first few weeks, but I’m hoping that when will you be charging more? we get back to some sort of normality, that we can I do think that there will be certain time restrictions on maybe start to think about putting those trends in place how long a client can be in the salon for, especially if we as well for clients that are desperate to look different. I are providing a colour correction. They can sometimes do think to begin with that it’s going to be a lot of colour be in the salon all day, meaning that this may not be a corrections and I think that we need to make sure that service that is available straight away, resulting in this we’re allowing for this, offering maybe online having to potentially be two separate appointments. consultations with your clients first or in my case, I’m However if they are booked in for the whole day, we of getting all of my stylists to call their clients beforehand course need to ensure that they are looked after all day. and have a little chat over the phone so that we can book the correct time in for them when they come back What do you think the most requested colour service into the salon. will be for the first few weeks of re-opening?
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Sam Ashcroft, Brooks & Brooks, London Have you got all your new colour blondes: re-introducing the money procedures in place for re-opening? piece and toning the ends to create The salon looks very different to a beautiful pop of lightness round the what we are used to; we have a face, making the client feel blonder. one-way system, we’ve removed It’s a super modern blonde at the stations for social distancing, we’ve moment, and refreshing the ends got a Perspex screen around the with a toner will take away the reception desk and backwashes, brassiness which the sun will have we’ve got an outside space in the created. For our darker clients there front of the salon to use as a colour is always the option for T section and development area so when the for our balayage clients we can be weather is nice, clients can sit clever with our placement to create outside and wait for their colour to maximum blonde where needed but re e h Click develop. Two of our assistants will be not having to do a full head. H C TO WAT based in our dispensary room who ! O E ID V THIS will mix our colour for us. We will have What do you think the most two smaller teams working two days requested colour service will be for on, two days off, and we have doubled all our equipment the first few weeks of reopening? which we can use in rotation while the other set if being Every colourist attracts their tribe. So you will know what sterilised. your clients are after and why your new clients come and see you. My clients love being blonde across the whole Can you run us through a time-line for what a new spectrum. From soft and sandy to bright and icy. I think in typical colour service will look like from start to finish? the beginning I will be using foil for a lot of my Our colour clients will be contacted two days before applications to ensure I get the lift I will need. I think the their appointment so we understand what they want; do trend will be whatever makes that client feel incredible, they want a private space, do they want an assistant to this is a rare occasion in our industry where the typical shampoo their hair, do they want a blow dry? We want to trends are on pause for the time being and it’s more make sure they feel comfortable and safe while they are what is going to make that client feel amazing. in the salon. Each client will receive their own pack which includes a disposable gown, towel and mask. An Do you think the new restrictions will hamper your online consultation will give us an idea of time we need creativity? for them. I don’t think the new restrictions will hamper my creativity, now is a time to adapt and evolve and become What are the time restrictions and are you allowing a colourist for the post-corona era. We have had so more time than before for each service and therefore, much time to educate ourselves, find inspiration and will you be charging more? make sure we are at the top of our game - and our We will be adding longer times for our colour clients are expecting us to deliver. These times are appointments, but we won’t charge them for that extra strange but they are not permanent, we will look back on time as they have waited for us and we appreciate that. this time and the time coming and see how much we The most important thing is to make them feel safe and grew. It will be weird at first, but we will get used to it, leave feeling fabulous. If they have coloured their hair and we might prefer this way of working...who knows. and it needs extra work to fix it, then we may charge accordingly. We want to say ‘thank you’ for waiting for us In such strange times do you see a colour trend and coming back to the salon, everything we took for emerging for the rest of the summer or will it be a case granted we are now saying ‘thank you for coming to us of just getting clients back to feeling good about their and waiting for us’. hair? Echoing what I already said I think the trend for this year Do you think you’ll see a rise in shorter services that is making your clients feel incredible in their own skin. cut processing time? If so, what will you be using? That is our industry’s fundamental basic ethos, and There will be a percentage of clients looking for a when things get a bit different and weird it’s best to shorter service and we can accommodate this by cutting always go back to your basics. I’m making sure I’m back on the shampoo and blow dry and having a educating myself, keeping myself inspired and touching consultation before they arrive. I think it will be more base with my clients so when I see them again I’m ready longer appointments for our clients we see every 5-6 to deliver whatever it is they are after: Which is a brilliant weeks. Shorter services we can offer would be for trend in itself.
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COLOUR
Adam Reed, UK Editorial Ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel Firstly, have you got all your new colour procedures in place for re-opening? In terms of our new colour procedures, like a lot of salons we are doing online virtual consultation pre appointment and have taken the time to re-educate ourselves as a team on extended regrowth following the L’Oréal Professionnel guidelines. Every client will have an extra 15minutes which allows us to be able to apply the colour and get the perfect application from the first visit, this is really important with the length of regrowth we are expecting to see. We are really looking at hair health, looking after your colour and achieving the best colour for our clients.
services and we are not encouraging this to begin with as we know a lot of the services are going to take a lot longer and from an express perfective it is really important for us to have the time and we have been super clear about that. As always it is a case by case basis and after the virtual consultation we will make sure that we have booked in enough time. To begin with we will be having no clients in between colour services to keep the number of people in the salon down so we are going to the full develop times and not doing express or using heat unless they ask. That’s what we are working towards but of course it is sort of entering the world of the unknown at the moment.
Can you run us through a time-line for what a new typical colour service will look like from start to finish. We treat all our clients on a case by case basis with a super personal service so it is hard to talk about the typical colour service. We are waiting to see how clients hair has changed and if it is as dramatic as we think. The consultation will take place virtually, then when the clients come in we will do a reassessment and are looking at allergy test procedures to make sure everyone is patch tested accordingly, there will also be extra time for all clients. The colourist will do the full appointment themselves to keep numbers in the salon down to a minimal and we will move forward from there. As I said, all clients will be treated case by case and we will look at each client individually. We are expecting to see a lot more glosses, colour refresh, regrowth touch up, balayage and highlights. We will be assessing after the first week as a team, seeing what has worked well and updating from there.
Do you think the new restrictions will hamper your creativity? Absolutely not, I don’t see this limiting our creativity, clients are super keen to come in and really excited. I think we are going to see an influx of people wanting to try something slightly different and a little more creative.
Do you think you’ll see a rise in shorter services that cut processing time? If so, what will you be using? That’s one thing we are not being asked for is sped up
In such strange times do you see a colour trend emerging for the rest of the summer or will it be a case of just getting clients back to feeling good about their hair? The biggest trend I envisage coming through is beautiful, glossy, shiny, healthy, nourished hair – hair that looks its absolute best. Of course we have seen this before but with lock down I think people will appreciate their hair health a lot more seeing as they have been continuously having to look after it for themselves. There will be other trends of course but I think we might see this in cutting, as so many people will need a lot more hair cut off and then colours to go with these shorter looks, tonal depth in colour that look seamless and incredibly beautiful. We are really excited to see!
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AT THE HEART OF YOUR SALON KAO SALON DIVISION HAS BEEN COMMITTED IN SUPPORTING ITS SALON PARTNERS DURING THESE UNPRECEDENTED TIMES AND ITS COMPREHENSIVE RECOVERY GUIDE IS DESIGNED TO HELP YOU NOT JUST RESTORE YOUR BUSINESS, BUT TO ENABLE IT TO THRIVE.
As part of our Salon Industry Recovery Initiative, The Salon Recovery Guide is designed to help yourself, your salon, your team and your clients as you prepare to reopen and go through the stages of recovery until we see our working lives return to normality. We know that we will be guided by the rules and conditions laid out by the Government, but there are things that you can do to ensure that you have set your business up with the very best chance of being successful no matter what comes. We want to help you focus on what needs to be done and the benefits that can be realised once carried out. To help guide you through what you need to consider as you navigate the recovery period we have identified FIVE core areas to address. Within each module there are a number of individual topics that will help ensure that you are fully prepared. All of us at Kao Salon Division are dedicated to our Salon Family partners and continue to be there to offer you our support, guidance and partnership.
MODULE1
YOUR SALON ENVIRONMENT >
Re-designing the Salon Environment It is likely that government regulations linked to social distancing will mean you need to re-design the environment within your salon to ensure that you are operating in a safe space. BENEFIT: Your clients will feel safe and comfortable within their surroundings, and be able to relax and enjoy their service. It will also help give your stylists confidence in how they need to operate in this new environment. The client experience is so important to ensure re-bookings are made, retail is purchased and the whole feel good factor is created during the appointment time.
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ADVERTORIAL
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The Client Experience Your clients come to you because they trust your expertise and value the experience they have whilst with your team in your salon. With the introduction of new guidelines their experience will change, with health and well-being being top of your client’s considerations, but you can still create an environment of relaxation that they seek. BENEFIT: Making these changes will help your clients enjoy their experience and support future re-bookings, by choosing to invest in their visit with you. Being selective with how you use products and consultation materials will enable you to give a full service but with the client’s health and well-being at the centre of everything you do. Using your salon window to reaffirm the safety standards you are putting in place will also help attract new clients as this becomes a key consideration in the future.
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The Waiting Area This is the area in your salon that could be the most difficult to manage when following any government guidelines on social distancing. It is important to use this space most efficiently so your clients have the best first experience back in your salon.
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BENEFIT: To support the safety of the salon, it is important to ensure there is a clear structure for people to follow. Space may be an issue in smaller salons, so managing your space and time is key to a safe and productive working environment.
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BENEFIT: Profit is the biggest focus for salon owners, so with the increase of costs due to hygiene measures, protective equipment and disposable items, it is vital that you are staying on top of these extras and not losing money. Now is the perfect time to press the reset button and make changes, as the new environment we all face allows for change to create success and new ways of working.
Your Stock Levels You will serve more clients in less time than ever before so plan carefully what you need to fulfil their demands. BENEFIT: Ensure you are managing your cash flow effectively through placing smaller, more regular orders, whilst making sure there is enough stock to cover the extra use of product due to the time clients have been away from the salon.
Your Price List Although looking at your price list may sound like a strange thing to be doing at this time you need to consider that you have to invest in hygienic articles as well as protective items which will take your costs up.
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Your Clients As you have been keeping in contact with your clients whilst your salon has been closed, it is vitally important to do so as you reopen. They will be desperate to return and it is important that they are clear and confident in how to do so. BENEFIT: Staying in touch with your clients is the best way for you to keep them up to date with how the salon is changing and what new things will be introduced when they return. One to one interactions to ask how the client is coping and what they are looking forward to once they return helps to further strengthen the relationship you have with them. This shows compassion that will be welcomed and appreciated, continuing the client loyalty from both sides.
Maximising Your Occupancy Time is money – now more than ever. Dependent on the government guidelines it is likely that you are not going to be able to operate your salon as before so you need to look at new ways of working to maximise the number of clients you can service during a working week. BENEFIT: Ultimately the more flexible you can be the better it is going to be financially for your business. These kind of changes are going to be key in being able to fit as many appointments as possible in a working week and in turn generate the optimum amount of cash.
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Reservations & Bookings Managing bookings has to be done carefully with having most important things in mind. The section on Filling Your Columns (on page 33) will help give further ideas on how to optimise this part of your business. BENEFIT: Managing your reservations will be important in filling your columns with the right appointments at the right time. Creating personal connections through phone bookings will help to strengthen your relationships with your clients and keep them coming back regularly.
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MODULE 2
YOUR TEAM >
Ensuring They Are Prepared If you are closed make sure to check in with your team ongoing, having regular calls through video apps both individually and as a collective. With the salon reopened it is essential that the team are confident in how they need to operate and prioritise the care of themselves and their clients. BENEFIT: The better your team is trained the fewer questions will arise during reopening when you need all the time exclusively for your clients. This will create a positive mentality within the salon and will ensure stylists feel safe and that will flow through to their clients.
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Your Stylists’ Safety It is likely that a number of your stylists will be nervous about working in this new environment. You need to ensure that they feel safe and secure and know that their health and well-being are your number one priority. BENEFIT: Your team is your most important asset so maintaining and tracking their health will ensure your salon business. Providing them the correct safety equipment will help protect them whilst working. Stylists and clients will appreciate that they are being looked after and this will enable your salon to run as normal knowing all your team feel protected and able to work.
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Your Clients’ Safety Along with their hair needs, your clients’ number one concern will be their health and safety. Although, clients are asked to bring their own protection (masks & gloves) make sure to have a sufficient amount of those available so you are able to carry out every appointment.
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BENEFIT: Another area to think about when clients return to the salon. Focusing on their well-being you are making sure you protect them, just in case they have used products in between their last visit that could potentially cause a reaction.
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BENEFIT: A safe salon will encourage clients to return and also help in them advocating you to friends and family to grow your client base.
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Sharpen Your Skills Help your team be confident in the services they are likely to see high demand for as clients come into the salon. Identifying new skills and enabling your stylists to practice them will ensure you are set up to be able to meet the needs of every client that sits in your chair. BENEFIT: As you will need to serve numerous clients in a very short time, every second counts. Making sure your team have their skills sharpened before and during your reopening will help keep clients to their appointment times.
Allergy Alert Testing The Allergy Alert Test is an essential part of a client’s colour journey and with some clients potentially trying box colours at home, plus the gap between a client’s last colour application due to salon closure, we would recommend to revisit this process with your clients once the salon reopens.
Your services With an expected high demand of services but less capacity (working stations to be occupied) across the first weeks of your reopening, you need to consider how you can adjust your service offer to optimise the time you have. BENEFIT: Increase your productivity with these ideas and create additional revenue for your salon with new service and package concepts.
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Your Retail After months of trying to keep their hair looking good at home, your clients will want to be advised and guided on retail. BENEFIT: With retail products, you can generate incremental profit, demonstrate your professionalism and achieve client loyalty.
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MODULE 3
FILLING YOUR COLUMNS >
Prioritise Appointments – Focus on Profit You need to be driving the most profitable services as possible, whilst ensuring columns are running at maximum capacity with the new ways of working. BENEFIT: Being on top of your appointments and prioritising them will be invaluable in making you as profitable as possible across this period of recovery. Evaluate your colour services versus your cut and style to find a way that fits your stylists’ rotas and brings the greatest value to you.
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Virtual Consultations Save time and reach out to clients before they visit the salon. This will also enable you to anticipate their needs and order in your products to service them. BENEFIT: Taking this approach will help saving time in the appointment. For example if you save 5 to 10 minutes per client, you can do one more appointment per a day. It also shows a high level of client care, offering advice at a time where they are probably insecure about their hair and its condition.
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Contact Your ‘Regulars’ Give priority to those that support your business the most; they will be eager to return. BENEFIT: Showing how important your regular clients are to you helps to reinforce their loyalty to you and your salon as well as making them feel valued and part of your family.
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MODULE 4
MAXIMISING APPOINTMENT PROFITABILITY >
5 Minute Colour Services Time will be a premium for you in the salon, so it is a great opportunity to look at areas to earn quick profits. The Goldwell portfolio gives you many opportunities to offer quick 5-minute colour services to your clients that will meet their needs and free up valuable time in your columns. BENEFIT: Time will be a premium once clients come back to the salon, so look at offering these services to clients that may be nervous about spending 2-3 hours in the salon. These are perfect to offer between full services, and they can be an add-on for a client has booked in for just a haircut.
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Added Value ‘Consultations’ Increase your average service price by offering value in the consultation, to remind clients of the add-on services available. Your clients will be concerned about the condition of their hair so ensure that you are in a position to offer them the instant care they need. BENEFIT: Give clients all the options available to improve the condition of the hair within their appointment. Focus on ‘hair health’ and bringing it back to optimum condition using the Goldwell portfolio to do so.
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Create an Upgrade List Make it clear to your stylists all the additional services that are available to clients that they can upgrade to in their appointment. It is likely that you will not be able to create additional physical materials to promote them so your team will be your key form of communication. BENEFIT: You can use these to help increase the client bill, and use them as part of any promotions where you want to deliver added value to the service. Clients will be open to all products and services that will make them feel glamorous again, and those returning with their hair in poor condition, will be willing to invest in them and bring the hair back to its optimum condition.
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MODULE 5
SUPPORTING YOUR CLIENTS >
BENEFIT: Ensure you keep your clients and promote a smooth reopening of your salon. Create positivity with all your communication, make clients feel safe with the precautions you have taken to make them safe, but still ensure an amazing client experience that is long overdue.
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current clients to tell others about your salon. Sometimes the best way to beat your competition is to provide better customer service than they do. If you take the time to connect with your clients, they might feel like your salon is relatable and will re-book.
Tell Clients’ You’re Opening Up Keep the engagement with your clients so you can both plan for the reopening – A time to celebrate!
Encouraging Them to Return Now is the time to go that extra mile, really offer support and show that caring nature to get clients back in to the salon. You can target lost clients, and use your salon windows to attract new customers and make people aware that you are back open and safe to have your hair done! BENEFIT: Following up with clients helps improve the whole experience, and can help solve any problems before they become an issue. If you let your clients know you care about them, they are more likely to feel a connection to your salon, and purchase from you again. You could increase your chances of getting good client feedback if you follow-up with your clients to make sure they are satisfied with your services. Keep in mind that a good experience might also inspire your
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Rebooking Rewards Look to offer rewards to increase client frequency. A small reward for them will be a bigger and more profitable reward for the salon. BENEFIT: Retaining clients and getting them to come back quicker will help support cash flow, and go a long way to recovering any losses whilst your salon has been shut. Keeping clients engaged via social media channels, email and newsletters will go a long way to getting them to return quickly.
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Retail Sales Look at simple offers you can support clients with, to ensure they purchase retail and increase the client bill. Retention levels will also go up upon purchasing retail from your stylists’ recommendation. BENEFIT: Many salons will be desperate to increase their cash flow, so now is a great time to sell through your retail and include them as part of the service. Keep promotions simple, offer the benefits during the service and support with sell through offers depending on your range of products in the salon.
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT KAO SALON DIVISION, AND REQUEST A COPY OF ITS SALON RECOVERY GUIDE? CALL 03301 239 530 OR EMAIL KAOSALONDIVISIONUK@KAO.COM #STRONGERTOGETHER
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S U S T A i N A B L E
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S U S T A i N A B L E
Our resident environmental campaigner KARINE JACKSON has been championing her mission to go single use plastic-free, even post lockdown.
Hi everyone So, another issue with Green Queen Karine and we’re still in lockdown, but finally we have light at the end of the tunnel… I hope you’ve all been staying safe and well? Who would have thought Pro Hair Live would be one of the last times we would gather as an industry, alongside the Hair and Beauty Charity Ball in London. I know how much time and stress is going into reopening, like a lot of you I’ve been repainting and planning, but post lockdown the most important part of reopening is keeping our teams and clients safe at all times, which means a huge amount of PPE we need to purchase. I’ve done a VT to give you a few tips on sourcing sustainable PPE as we’re in danger of reversing all the good work we’ve done towards becoming sustainable because of the pandemic. Yes we need to be safe in the immediate future, but this can’t be at the expense of environmental damage further down the line thanks to millions of single use products. The last thing we need is this amount of plastic heading into the environment.
Karine x
GREEN QUEEN
KARINE I CAN’T WAIT TO GET BACK TO WORK AND TO INDUSTRY EVENTS WHERE WE CAN ALL SHARE OUR EXPERIENCES. HERE’S A LIST OF COMPANIES I HAVE BEEN TALKING WITH TO HELP YOU ON YOUR WAY. https://www.getvish.com/home https://www.organiccoloursystems.com https://www.easydry.com https://tribeandfable.com/products/sarsk-the-facemask-scarf?variant=33569811136571
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SPOTLIGHT
Towel Hygiene Experts There is a huge preoccupation with hygiene currently around the globe and rightly so. Salons and spas are at the frontline and are dealing with a lot of concern from clients and staff regarding hygiene. So, how can we help? Easydry disposable towels are made from medical-grade fibre. As they are single-use, they are more hygienic than multi-user cotton towels and traditional laundry. Using Easydry disposable towels is a great way to reassure your clients and your team that your business offers the highest hygiene standards. The team at Easydry has created a hygiene sticker for Easydry customers. This hygiene sticker states that the salon uses Easydry disposable towels and can offer a clean, fresh towel – every client, every time! If you are using Easydry towels and have not yet received your Easydry Hygiene Sticker,
email info@easydry.com
Knowing that salons love to educate and inform their teams and their clients, Easydry has put together a short animation explaining how Easydry is the hygienic alternative to outdated cotton towels. Click here to view: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZoiqhkSO3Y EASYDRY IS DELIGHTED TO ANNOUNCE THE LAUNCH OF ITS LATEST INNOVATION – THE EASYDRY LONG, BLACK, 100% COMPOSTABLE, DISPOSABLE GOWN. Easydry 100% Compostable Long Black Gown – features and benefits:
Full-length black gown, providing protection for the guest and the stylist. For any service – all that is needed 1 Easydry gown and 1 towel!
The gown is 100% compostable and OK Compost certified. The gowns are packed in bags of 30 with 10 bags per carton = 300 gowns per outer carton.
The material is very soft and sits well on the client – giving them a comfortable and hygienic salon experience.
For further information please call. T: +353 42 938 1963 or email - info@easydry.com, Or order via our website @ - https://www.easydry.com/gb/product/compostable-long-gown-black-300/ Find out more at www.rdr.link/HQ024 40 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER
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H O O K E R A ND YO U N G
Cos Sakkas, Head of Education and Artistic Director at TONI&GUY H&Y: So, let’s start at the beginning. How did you get into hairdressing? Was it something you always wanted to do? Cos: Not really – it was a bit of an accident. I was studying business at college, but I found it boring. I got my degree, but I still wasn’t convinced it was right for me. A mate of mine was working at TONI&GUY in Covent Garden and asked if I’d thought about hairdressing. At first, I thought ‘no way’! H&Y: One thing we’ve found in all of these interviews is that nobody set out to be a hairdresser originally; most people started on a journey to do something else. Cos: Although I felt a bit old to be doing an apprenticeship, I went along to the TONI&GUY Academy to have a look. My first thought was ‘wow’ – everyone was having fun and it seemed like an amazing place to be. I joined on Thursday and started training the following Monday. H&Y: So, you’ve been with TONI&GUY your whole career? How long is that? Cos: 27 years!
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H&Y: That’s amazing. You don’t hear that very often, do you? Cos: There’s a proper career path at TONI&GUY. I’ve done lots of things and there are always new opportunities. They’ve looked after me like family – and I’ve always thought if I love it, why change? H&Y: You must have been exposed to all sorts of amazing things – the shows, the shoots, the awards… Cos: Absolutely, and I’d go to everything. I did whatever needed to be done; it was amazing just to be there experiencing it. H&Y: It must have been quite a competitive environment – there must be lots of people at TONI&GUY that want to do the same thing. Cos: You either go and get it or you don’t. It’s how I got into teaching as well. H&Y: It seems as though you had your sights set on education from an early stage. Cos: Absolutely! As soon as I started, I knew I wanted to teach. Even though I’d only just
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started hairdressing, it really excited me. My teachers were Adam Ryan, Malcom Edwards, Ben Cook, Antony and Sasha Mascolo. H&Y: Great teachers! What were you teaching at this point? Cos: My first real job role was heading up our classic course. I was always a geek about cutting – I really enjoyed the perfect elevation and distribution and the cleanness of sections. To be asked to head up classes was a dream, because it was a thing I knew I could do really well and pass on. H&Y: Were you only doing work in the academy or were you still doing clients? Cos: I’d do three days in the Academy and two in the salon seeing clients. I think it’s impossible to educate if you don’t work in the salon as well; it needs reality. There’s no point teaching a three-hour cut that can’t be reproduced in 45 minutes. H&Y: Did you ever think about getting your own salon? Cos: At one point I thought it would be the next
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step for me. Being Greek, my dad was all about having your own business and being your own boss. He always said, go and get your own salon, stop working for other people; it’s bad enough you became a hairdresser, now at least go and do it properly! H&Y: How did your parents feel about you being a hairdresser? Cos: Oh, my dad wasn’t having it all. He was old school, and, in his eyes, I had to be a doctor or a lawyer. H&Y: I wonder how many people out there wanted to be a hairdresser but didn’t because of their parents? I bet there’s loads, especially in that generation. Most people we’ve interviewed have said they dreaded telling their parents they wanted to be a hairdresser. Anyway – you got into shoots from doing education – do you remember the first shoot of your own?
H&Y: You’ve been with TONI&GUY for 27 years now; have you noticed a change in getting good team members? Cos: There are so many more avenues for people to go down and opportunities to work freelance, doing session work and clients too. Staff is definitely an issue for the industry at the moment. H&Y: It has to change – and it’s not just hairdressing, it’s apprenticeships in general. I think families are encouraging kids to stay on and do further education and there’s not enough young people going into trades. Do you think there’s anything we can do to try and make it a more appealing industry? Cos: I think that the length of training is too long, because in an era when youngsters have whatever they want at their fingertips, why would they want to wait three and a half years for this? H&Y: We live in an instant world now. Nobody wants to wait for anything. Cos: And when they do, where are they? Their mates have already been working for three years, they’ve stepped up three pay grades and don’t work at the weekend – and you’re still earing minimum and having to work on Saturdays. The current scheme is out-dated. Apprentices need to get their NVQ because it’s a qualification, but we need to guide them after that and make it more exciting. H&Y: Has there ever been a point where you’ve thought hairdressing isn’t for you? Cos: Never. I’ve enjoyed every day. I think the biggest challenge for me was when I got nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year – that scared me. For the first time ever, I felt out of my comfort zone.
Cos: My first proper shoot was actually for the British Hairdressing Awards, for Newcomer of the Year. H&Y: Did you have to fund your own shoots in those days?
H&Y: It’s a really different kind of pressure. Cos: I had writers block; my head was just empty for two weeks!
Cos: Everything was in house. We had our own studio and photographer and most of the models were in-house too, so we’d just give them £50. For that first shoot, we went to John Lewis and bought some material and made our own little tops. We did headshots with a white background and I got into the final of the British Hairdressing Awards. I didn’t really know anything – not like the kids today. The level of newcomers today is completely different.
H&Y: So, the future. Any plans to change or do anything different?
H&Y: They’re exposed to a lot more today and much more switched on. Social media makes it much easier. We used to go to Selfridge’s and sit there for hours with magazines and spend £100 at a time on them. Do you think it’s a good or bad thing that it’s easier now?
H&Y: I think TONI&GUY have a strong voice that kids will look at and want to be a part of, but we have to deal with the new reality. Change is beyond our control but as more experienced hairdressers, we need to take responsibility to see how things are changing.
Cos: You can’t say it’s not amazing. To have that power is incredible, but it has dumbed things down a bit. I think making a physical moodboard is a job in itself, that really helps your creativity. We still do them with our apprentices – I’ll get a big bundle of magazines and the apprentices sit around with scissors and glue and we ask them to physically make a board. They’re looking at us like, ‘can I just do it on my phone?’ And we say ‘no this is the whole point!’
Everybody’s story is different, sometimes taking different turns which can lead to the unexpected. From day one Cos found his passion in education and hasn’t faltered from that earning him the title of ‘Head of Education and Artistic Director’ for TONI&GUY. He has continued to gravitate towards the things that he loves, to motivate and inspire young hairdressers to achieve their personal goals. Focused, determined and a really nice bloke!
Cos: I’ve probably got about eight job roles that happen depending on the season. My work is always varied and there’s always a new team to develop. The big thing for us now is apprenticeships and how to adapt them to make them relevant for youngsters now.
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Jonathan Andrew
BENEFITS
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FRINGES
BBC’s Normal People has been binge watched by millions and is one of the viewing saviours of lockdown and aside from Connell’s chain (which actually has its own Instagram account), it’s Marianne’s fringe that has caused quite the furore with women up and down the country wanting to achieve this look. Rarely does such an understated on-screen haircut capture viewers’ attention like this, especially when there’s such a heart-wrenching plot unfolding, but it has provided some serious hair inspo and along with all the DIY fringe disasters coming through the door, it will be great for client conversations when you reopen.
So what might you expect on the fringe front when your clients come back through the door? Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional Global Brand Ambassador says “It is inevitable there will be some horrendous and hilarious fringes coming back into your chair very soon and this is definitely an opportunity to push the boundaries. There are two types of clients I predict to come back to the salon, one who has had a fringe for so long and taken this opportunity to grow it out who never had the time before to do so and the client who has tried to trim it themselves and doesn’t understand the difficulty to cut a fringe and produced varying results. If your clients have used this time to grow out their fringe this is the perfect time to get that soft summer separation. I expect to see a lot more 70s style fringes with a lot more movement away from the face and this is a trend I am fully on board with. Longer fringes cut right will give so much more versatility to the wearer and I think now is the time to focus on providing your client with versatility and information on how to manage it themselves. I think this will be a fun time for more creative adaptions. For those in the home cut camp, it is literally going to be trial and error unfortunately and giving your clients honesty is the key here and trying to adapt whatever they have done into a wearable solution is key. This may be an opportunity to try shorter hair or more creative things with their fringe they may not have previously been able too. I expect work regulations of certain hair and haircuts to be relaxed in the immediate aftermath so this could be the chance to have some fun with your clients.”
But not every client can carry off a Marianne fringe so what is the best thing to advise when talking to them about their fringe fancies? Neil Smith, Creative Director at Barrie Stephen Hair suggests “When it comes to fringes, there’s one to suit every face shape. From heart shape, square and even the round face can have a fringe – it’s all in the detail. You should tailor the most suitable fringe for each client based on:
face shape hair texture lifestyle
hair type hair density on trend
Inline Precision cut super straight or architectural shaped with blunt edge for a graphical silhouette with mirror like shine. This fringe is great on thicker density types of hair, straight and curly hair. It will require maintenance to refine the line every three weeks to keep it super sharp.
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“The main point to remember is to fit the fringe to the face shape and jawline as it will act as a frame for the face. Whether it’s a long fringe that sits on and accentuates your cheekbones or a brow skimming fringe that opens up your eyes, with fringes it’s all about where it ends.” Neil Smith
Curl line Movement in hair doesn’t mean no fringe. The same principals for cutting curly hair apply here, remembering the natural spring in the hair. Lean more on the strong graphical statement than the softer.
Broken line Worn at varying lengths from super micro to lived-in, a broken line gives a soft feel and suits all hair types, density and straight to curly hair. This fringe is low maintenance and will need trimming about every 6 weeks.
Sweeping line This is a barely-there fringe, a shorter layer around the face and dressed into a side sweeping fringe. This suits straight or wavy hair and all hair density. Maintenance as of when you get your hair cut.
A lot of clients do like to follow celebrity trends and after lockdown will be looking to update their look – will the fringe be at the forefront of this? Akin Konizi, Creative Director of HOB Salons believes in the power of the fringe. “A fringe can make or break a haircut – and when celebrities want a new look it’s the first thing they change. Sienna Miller, Emma Watson and Jennifer Lawrence have all updated their styles with a simple fringe. It’s important to get the fringe right, because it’s the most visible part of the haircut. It’s right at the front and will make the biggest difference to your clients’ overall look. More than any other area on a cut, the fringe will set the character of a person, so it’s vital to ensure the length and shape suits that person. A tiny alteration to the shape of a fringe can turn you from a suburban housewife into a dominatrix – it really is that powerful!”
“Before lockdown, one of the key trends we were seeing is a fringe that sits just below the brows, with a soft curved line. It’s a look inspired by 1960s and 1970s fashion, although modern interpretations will play with the length more, offering longer and shorter versions depending on the personality and lifestyle of the client. In general, fringes are moving away from the hard geometric or asymmetric styles that were popular last year. Now it’s more about worn-in, slightly grown-out shapes. Fringes are not cut as far back at the sides as they used to be, although this shape may make a comeback soon as part of the 1980’s resurgence that we are currently experiencing.”
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FRINGES
So between Normal People’s Marianne and lockdown cuts, the fringe has been in the media spotlight over the last couple of months and will probably be a talking point in salon as clients get back in the chair and there’s a lot to think about …. Karen Thomson, Owner and Director of KAM Hair and Body Spa advises, “When it comes to fringes there are a lot of things to think about. Take into consideration your client’s natural texture and length. Those with thicker, longer hair will be well suited for a blunt fringe, whereas those with thinner hair should consider the wispy or side swept fringe, as they will be a lot easier to manage. If the client doesn’t want to go for a dramatic hair change, a fringe is a great way to update their look. However, it’s so important to inform clients that fringes require a lot of maintenance and they will need to get into the habit of using a flat oval brush to blow-dry their hair at home to ensure the fringe looks its best. A fringe can also become frizzy, so it’s important to discuss with your client’s styling their fringe at home and using appropriate styling products such as a smoothing cream or serum to prep the hair before styling and to use after styling to ensure the hair looks its best and is smooth and shiny.
Neil Barton, Goldwell Ambassador and Owner of Neil Barton agrees, “Getting a fringe is an instant style statement and can easily update a client’s look - it’s a way to accessorise but for hair. When a client is thinking of getting a fringe cut, it’s important that as a stylist you discuss with them the best length and style to suit them, their personality, lifestyle and also their face shape, as certain fringe styles work best on specific face shapes. For example, fringes can make a circular face appear fuller, so the right cut is key. For a circular face I always recommend a graphic, curved shaped fringe that is quite thick, which will flatter the bone structure. However, oval faces suit most fringe shapes but on-trend pin-straight fringes accentuate the prettiest parts of the face without feeling too heavy or thick. Oval faces can also get away with wearing side-swept fringes, whereas I always avoid recommending these fringes to heart-shapes faces as they have a balancing effect and draw attention towards the eyes and heart-shapes faces can be slightly top heavy.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 49
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Mark Leeson Hair Mark Leeson for Revlon Professional Make-up Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling M&R Photography Richard Miles
“Nothing more I love than getting prepped for a collection. First things first – it’s the mood board – not essentially the mood of cuts, and styles – it’s about what textures I am aspiring the models’ hair to take on and what colours will enhance it. At the same time I’m roaming the catwalks – latterly it’s been hard to beat top end designers – I just love how I can literally brand their brand. The last three collections have been in partnership with D&G – its perfection and eye to detail in shape and form – have so honestly complimented the hair I’ve created. For Baroque the fashion styling was sleek, sharp and sexy – for the hair I wanted to achieve anything but – I wanted texture, rawness and boho chic.”
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H TO WATC ! O E ID V THIS
Sometimes pastels just don’t sit well with strong vibrant fashion – but this pastel blue/dove grey does – in fact it feels so wrong, it’s got to be right! Just love, love how the model’s hair is so acutely straight – and just perfect for this bi-level haircut that so enhanced her elfin-esque face shape.
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Mid length hair is generally hard to shoot and make interesting but I always love to shoot it – because the length challenges you to create a believable texture and movement. For me – against the strength of the wardrobe – it had to be free-form, it’s pure summer, it’s beautiful boho, it’s crazily chic.
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Got to be one of my all-time favourite models – Misty! The ultimate platinum blonde enhances the beautiful natural texture of her hair. We used dried paste to tease and pinch the afro-texture into a spiky effect. Simply amazing result.
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Just love working with this model’s hair. She’s blessed with naturally wavy hair – and we cut it using a free-form technique which we’ve called in the salon, ‘new wave romance’, in order to engage the natural movement of her hair.
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This is one of my most favourite shots in the collection – when we talked about the colour placement and when it was suggested we would use yellow we felt that because the wardrobe was themed black/yellow if the colour placement wasn’t in the right place – it could look totally wrong. Fortunately we got it right!
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Those familiar with Mark Leeson campaign collections know that I always include a signature red head – and I’ve often had to cast far and wide in order to find not just a fiery red head, but a red head whose hair exudes shine, gloss and personality. What’s more her skin tone has to be peachy – Elena was that girl.
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Its important in any collection to show your versatility as a hairdresser – and therefore you need to introduce new shapes in cutting. This is, generally a tall order as there is such a dearth of extreme hair-cutting models but to find a commercial face combined with shorter hair – is truly a challenge. Florentina has always worked so well for us – and she’s a great model, she ticks my box too when it comes to experimental hair colour and cut. When a model says ‘it’s only hair’ – you could literally kiss her! Here we used a pastel palette to enhance her new shape – and at once we had a fashion story.
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Both boys are great – absolutely great hair to work with – again it’s hard to find the right length and texture when working with male models. I was desperate to get a platinum blonde – this tone in Revlon’s portfolio is so clean – it’s a pure joy to work with. Both boys sport flat tops – one structured, the other not – the dark haired model is no stranger to our portfolio – he’s just got a great head of hair and the mocha brown lends itself so handsomely to the golden brown highlights that we wove through.
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Click here
H TO WATC ! EO ID V IS H T
Always is my first collection, I wanted to create something timeless with an editorial feel to it. Designers such as Celine and YSL were my inspiration for the aesthetic of the shoot, mixing gender-neutral fashion and the choice of classic techniques with an elevated editorial finish.Â
Amelia Evans Hair Amelia Evans @ Hare & Bone Make-up Coco Hirani Styling Craig Alexander Steel Photography Phillip Veitch
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Hooker & Young Hair Sophie Gibson & Jonathan Turner Make-up Kirsten Baillie Styling Clare Frith Photography Michael Young
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H TO WATC ! EO ID V IS H T
Our collection is called School Yearbook and is based on a 1970s yearbook. It was important to us that we made sure each image had its own individuality. We achieved this by giving each model their own character and really thought about how they would wear their hair, how they might dress and how they might feel as a woman. We then brought the collection together by giving each model a pair of wide and chunky glasses. The collection is all about having fun, creating a feeling of joy and, most importantly, celebrating individuality.
t ot into ho ect o r g in r e A smould gives a flame eff ds blonde en ort textured cut. sh to Anna’s
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light ckets of o p d e t a e hnique cr h soft movement. c e t d e t wit pain wn. This hand rfect for long hair ’s a new girl in to e e r p e & shade, harlies Angels, th C r e Move ov
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se ovie Grea m e h t m y’ fro g ‘French school vibe. in ll e n n a h h c We were ly brought that hig e it and defin
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! Cool, sn’t care e o d e h s and oo. Pink hair d we’re loving it t n ta confiden
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eshell w, tortois e 70’s. o d a h s e ck th en ey look! Gre aves, bringing ba is h t e v lo w killer We just mes and a r f d e iz over-s
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to the ’re back e w d n a y de ab Ice, ice b is super cool blon h t h 80’s wit ut, looking sharp. hc and boyis
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Thomas Hills, Director, TH1 Hair talks us through how to achieve this delux curl creation.
Thomas Hills
HERE’S HOW IT WAS ACHIEVED: 1) I pre-loaded hair with Revlon Professional Amplifier Mousse for volume, which I dried in slightly, before reapplying. I wanted the hair to grow and ‘pop’ with movement. 2) I then blow-dried the hair with a large round bristle brush to help encourage additional volume. 3) Blow-dried locks were then prepped with American Crew Boost Powder (a weightless powder to help me create dramatic, gravity-defying texture) for guts and hold. This product also helps retain the natural moisture of the hair, while softening it, too, which allowed me to work the movement throughout.
4) This look is all about defined, deep, old-school waves, so to help me create these I used both the BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Deep Waver and Medium Barelled Tong – essential to help me nail the glamorous vibe I wanted. It also allowed me to create supersized waves with gloss and volume, while allowing the hair to fall loosely, with no real uniform. I started from eye level, working the movement by reversing each section and pinning the curls until they were cool for maximum hold. 5) Once waves were cool and released, I used a glossing spray to finish, focusing on the mid-lengths to ends.
The texture within this image was dictated by my model’s own natural texture, and the movement and shape already present within the hair. When adding curls, and particularly when creating a look that is so intricately full of texture, it’s important to work with, rather than against, the models’ own hair. Prep work was crucial – with so much dimension and structure within this look, I couldn’t simply add texture, it was essential that I embraced it, created it and layered it into the style from scratch. To make sure the look was modern, I kept the waves straight at the top, breaking up the very ends of the curls, so they lost a little of their pristineness. The end result combines contemporary polish with old-fashioned retro glamour for a look that’s incredibly high-end.
“This style has an undone appearance yet manages to look ‘finished’ – which differentiates it from naturally occurring waves. I also wanted to create a dichotomy and contrast of texture (while there is gloss to the curls there is also a matte finish to the ends) the perfect juxtaposition to the polished yet free style I was looking to create – resulting in curls with an unexpected texture and finish.” Thomas Hills, Director, TH1 Hair
Bruno Marc
CURL POWER
When it comes to curls, these are, without doubt, super-polished deluxe waves. This was my model’s own hair, no extensions required – which provided the perfect blank canvas for me to create what I call a ‘non-uniform’ texture. I’ve been playing around with different textures within an individual style for a while now, and I love how simple textural changes can completely transform a look, updating it and giving it a truly modern edge with a definite touch of luxe. I like to call it curl power!
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CURLS
Bruno Marc
This style was created to show a real glamorous blowdry, to show how easily volume and big curls can be created using a barrel brush and a hair dryer. Blow drying a style like this is an art and something that can take years to perfect. It’s all about creating volume at the roots to really lift the hair, whilst maintaining a salon shine and of course the large curls. Must have products to recreate: Large barrel brush, hair dryer, JOICO Dream Blowout Thermal Protection Crème. Bruno Marc, Joico Ambassador for Europe, UK & Ireland
Bruno Marc
This is one of my favourite images from my Kaleidescope collection, just look at those voluminous curls. This look has always been a favourite with clients, but will be a bigger hit with those looking to make a statement as we ease out of lockdown. Big, bold and beautiful! Must have products to recreate: JOICO Body Shake, JOICO Hair Shake Bruno Marc, Joico Ambassador for Europe, UK & Ireland
WORKING CURLS
KILLER.CURLS from KEVIN.MURPHY is an anti-frizz curl definer that will put the spring back into sad, straggly curls. This antioxidant rich, leave-in anti-frizz defining crème, helps to activate curls while adding essential moisture to throw out the frizz. Curls look and feel natural and soft, as it delivers the ideal balance of strong hold and elasticity to the hair. KEVIN.MURPHY’s EASY.RIDER will de-frizz any unruly hair whilst activating curls. Providing the nourishment of a treatment, it delivers smoother, sleeker styling with flexible hold. Both products are sulphate-free, paraben-free and cruelty-free.
Embracing and celebrating natural curls.
Curls and texture are hot right now and clients who are blessed with naturally curly or textured hair are looking to stop straightening it to within an inch of its life and instead are turning to products and techniques that nourish, bolster and boost their natural curls
www.rdr.link/HQ012
Bounce curls back to life and discover the natural magic of Tea Tree Lavender Mint. Paul Mitchell’s range for all types of curls offers seven products that tend and care for textured hair. Infused with monoi, pequi and jojoba oils to nourish hair and help fight frizz, this hydrating collection provides essential moisture to help tame waves, curls and coils, and leaves textured hair shiny, healthy and conditioned. www.rdr.link/HQ013
Paul Mitchell
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We’re seeing a resurgence in curly hairstyles on the red carpet and Instagram. One reason for this is that natural, effortless hairstyles that are full of texture are super on trend this year and they have been showcased on many runway shows, on social media and many celebrities have been seen sporting the trend. I think people are starting to care more for their hair and not wanting to cause further damage to their hair with heated styling tools. Instead, they are experimenting with loose, effortless updos and leaving their hair natural, embracing their texture and also enhancing their natural texture with hair products like texturising sprays. Kevin Paul Finnell, Creative Director, F&M Hairdressing
Kevin Finnell F&M Hairdressing
Kevin Finnell F&M Hairdressing
Styleformers® is a versatile range of four styling products from HairFlair specifically designed for curls. The formulations can be used alone or cocktailed for every possible curl care and styling. Nourish Replenishing Serum: Nourish oil is specially formulated to nourish, restore moisture and add shine to hair. Whether you’re looking to create volume at the root of beach waves or add dimension to spiralled curls, Neäl & Wølf’s styling and finishing products can help and all are cruelty free and free of sulfate, paraben, DEA and TEA.”
Hold Extra Hold Styling Cream: Hold is the go-to product to hold and manage unruly curls. Use when setting with Curlformers® or rollers for a good hold factor with touchable finish.
SHAPE Pliable Paste: this specially formulated texturing paste gives an outstanding strong hold that improves definition.
Define Defining Cream: Define smooths hair, giving it a lightweight finish and ultimate shine. Work it through the hair to the ends for a smooth weightless result with definition.
CONTROL Flexible Styling Hairspray is perfect for creating light texture in styled waves or curls to achieve an effortless, dimensional look that lasts all day. It is suitable for vegans. AMPLIFY Volumising Shampoo is the perfect pre-styling product for achieving texture – it uses a unique blend of panthenol, silk, milk and wheat proteins and significantly enhances volume without creating build-up, for a gorgeous, glossy lift.
Shine Silk Styling Lotion: Lightweight curl control with an amazing technology to transform from a cream to an oil consistency. Its velvety feel wraps hair giving it a luxurious soft touch.
www.rdr.link/HQ014
www.rdr.link/HQ015
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Schwarzkopf Professional’s Mad About Curls & Waves range is infused with cutting-edge Aquarine Complex – a combination of product-specific care ingredients that:
Especially in self-isolation people have stepped away from their typical hair routines from their normal day to day lives. This period has produced a lot of experimentation with hair and people are really are keen to know more about their curls. From this I see the trends becoming about big, bouncy, natural curls and naturally this will lead into summer beach waves and slightly softer texture looks that fundamentally are based on curly hair. The great thing that is coming out of this is people have lots more time to condition and treat their hair properly and also use appropriate products and understand them more. My key go-to product for this is the Fudge Professional Curl Revolution Mist because it is lightweight and gives a no crunch feel allowing you to naturally air dry or diffuse your hair, for a natural finish that is frizz free. Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional Brand Ambassador
- Strengthen the hair - Intensively moisturise - Provide heat protection** - Ensure up to 96% less breakage** - Ensure up to 94% less split ends** - Wraps every strand in a ‘care shield’ for touchable definition
Jonathan Andrew Fudge Professional
I have noticed a big boost in natural curls, people are really starting to embrace their natural hair and work with it as it is.
To boost the full benefits of the Aquarine Complex, it’s recommended to use the assortment as a holistic care and styling regime for gorgeous, lasting curls and waves. To cater for the different hair textures and patterns, Mad About Curls & Waves contains two specific ranges, one for curls and one for waves. Each assortment follows four steps: Cleanse, Care, Protect & Style and Refresh.
Create defined, bouncy curls with Fudge Curl Revolution Mist - a soft touch balm to smooth hair and protect against frizz for a natural-looking finish without a sticky or crunchy feel. Formulated with a blend of repairing aloe vera and nourishing coconut oil plus royal jelly and mallow root to strengthen and add elasticity, this nourishing balm moisturises the hair, while protecting from heat and styling damage. www.rdr.link/HQ016
*source: www.hairboutique.com **when used as a holistic care & style regime
www.rdr.link/HQ017
Creating strong powerful curls: This look was created by traditionally doing a pin curl set whilst twisting the hair, and then pinning up and leaving to cool. Once cool, it is unpinned and each curl separated into seven strands. Finished using Schwarzkopf Osis Textured Craft and Silhouette hairspray. Brooke Evans
The JOICO Zero Heat air-dry styling crème is a no-heat, no-hassle styler that comes in two personalised formulas for fine/medium and thick hair - to define and enhance the hair’s natural texture. Providing 24-hour humidity control, it helps retain a natural, air-dry look and boosts shine. www.rdr.link/HQ018
Brooke Evans
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Embrace curls by treating them well with the new SACHAJUAN Curl range – including a shampoo, conditioner and intensive treatment – for smooth, nourished, controlled and manageable curls. Unique to the Curl range is the new Ocean Silk Curl Complex with its signature Ocean Silk Technology – a blend of two cold water sea algae naturally harvested from the ocean that work together to boost elasticity, moisture and shine – with smooth working styling polymers to combat frizz for soft curls with natural bounce. The range includes: SACHAJUAN CURL SHAMPOO has been specifically created for curls with a very gentle cleansing action, without compromising on professional performance; SACHAJUAN CURL CONDITIONER designed to nourish and define curls, whilst boosting strength and shine and SACHAJUAN CURL TREATMENT giving intensive nourishment to rehydrate and repair. www.rdr.link/HQ019
Revlon’s Eksperience™ Wave Remedy range is formulated to help control hair that is difficult to manage providing hydration, anti-frizz effect and anti-humidity protection. The Anti Frizz Hair Cleanser offers softening cleansing, frizz control, shine, and staic reduction and the Anti Frizz Hair Mask hydrates and disciplines curly and frizzy hair.
Karen Thomson KAM Hair
This look was all about texture. Hair was curled using a curling tong and then brushed out to break the hair up and give it a softer finish. Volumising products were then used to provide the hair with added texture and to create dimension and movement. Karen Thomson, KAM Hair and Body Spa
I scrunch dried model’s hair before applying a mix of Keune’s Blow Out Gelee with their Curl Define Crème to isolate each curl before defusing. Once the hair was dry, I re-defined each curl using the Revamp Progloss Tight Curl Stick TO-1100. Joseph Koniak
www.rdr.link/HQ020
www.rdr.link/HQ021
Joseph Koniak
The STYLING RANGE, by Wella Professionals EIMI, seals in nourishment and locks out humidity. EIMI NUTRICURLS provides curl benefits for up to 72 hours (anti-frizz effect or curl definition) that maintain beautiful bouncy long-lasting waves and curls. The range includes: SOFT TWIRL, 72 hour anti-frizz styling foam for waves ; CURL SHAPER, 72 hour curl defining gel-cream for curls; BOOST BOUNCE, 72 hour curl enhancing mousse for waves and curls and FRESH UP, 72 hour anti-frizz spray for waves and curls.
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CURLS
GOING TEXTURE NEUTRAL
By Thomas Hills, Director, TH1 Hair At salons across the country there has been a texture-bias for years. For clients that fall into the category of having naturally smooth, straight to wavy, Caucasian hair, they probably won’t have noticed it, but it’s undeniable that at many high street salons and even across many large salon groups, clients of certain hair textures will be denied hairdressing opportunities, on the basis of their texture. Afro-Caribbean hair, and hair that is very coarse, very curly and very unruly, quite often face a type of discrimination. This can range from indiscreet – such as being given sub-standard treatment by stylists that are simply inexperienced and untrained in cutting or styling their particular hair type – to more subtle (for example, many of the styles found in blow-dry menu’s and blow-dry bars aren’t suitable unless you fit a certain hair texture category). It’s the reason why Afro-Caribbean salons and even curly hair ‘clinics’ have become so popular, and it’s incredibly sad that even in this day and age hairdressing can be regarded as an exclusive industry in this way. In the same way that salons are becoming increasingly neutral in terms of gender bias, they should also take a more modern and inclusive approach and become texture-neutral, too. Education is essential in overcoming this current bias. Stylists and colourists must become trained and qualified in working with every type of hair texture. While basic NVQ level training will cover all elements of looking after different textures, this is actually only a very recent
requirement – it’s only since 2015 that students are required to have knowledge of working within four hair classifications: from heavy, straight hair through to extremely curly hair, including afro hair. If you have staff that qualified before this date, and who didn’t train in these different textures as part of a higher education program, you should consider investing in specialist courses to cement their knowledge and improve their experience. Investing in your staff’s ongoing and higher education, and sending stylists to train in niche areas, will set your salon apart, eventually allowing you to reap the financial benefits of offering extra services that other salons don’t yet offer. However, education is only part of the equation, as experience plays a massive role in determining the skill and confidence of a stylist when working with certain textures. Exposing your stylists to as many different hair textures as possible is therefore crucial in setting the standard of hairdressing within your salon, which will then in turn encourage more clients of varying hair textures to choose your salon over a more specialist one. Remember, as more salons become texture-neutral, it will no longer be a case of setting your salon above and ahead
of other salons – it will be about playing catch-up – so get a head start now. As well as thinking about your staff and how they are trained, consider the equipment and products you use in salon. Make sure your shampoos, conditioners, treatments and retail products are broad and prescriptive for all hair textures, and consider adding to your repertoire of styling tools, to include tools designed to enhance curls and Afro hair. Think about the services you offer in salon too. Offering services that can alter the texture of clients’ hair will be appealing to many clients – a smoothing service is a good start, but at TH1 we also offer a range of other options,that add curl and body to hair, such as a permanent wave treatment, partial wave treatment, as well as a spiral wave treatment. Our team is experienced in the cutting and styling aftercare that follows these treatments too, so we are then able to offer styling solutions for curly hair of varying types. Of course, embracing clients of all textures shouldn’t just be about giving them the option to alter their hair texture and type – it’s more important that your team are able to encourage clients to embrace their natural texture and give your clients cutting, styling and colouring advice that plays on the strengths of their natural hair texture, rather than giving them a solution that simply masks it. After all, that’s essentially the key to embracing texture neutrality.
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JOSEPH FERRARO Click here
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CURLILOX I WANTED TO CREATE A VERY NATURAL LOOKING CURL WITH A ROUNDED SHAPE. THIS LOOK IS WHAT A LOT OF LADIES WITH CURLY HAIR WOULD LOVE TO ACHIEVE WITH THE FINISH AND SHAPE. IT WORKS SO WELL WITH THE NATURE OF THE MODEL I WAS WORKING WITH. I USED A SMALL WAND ALL OVER TO GIVE EACH CURL A SMOOTH FINISH AND DEFINITION.
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MISFRIZ THIS FRIZZ LIKE TEXTURE IS SO STRIKING AND IT SHOWS THAT CURLS DON’T ALWAYS HAVE TO BE SMOOTH AND SHINY THEY ALSO WORK IN SO MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF TEXTURE. THIS LOOK WAS CREATED BY WRAPPING EACH SECTION WITH A TAIL COMB AND THEN HEATED WITH A PAIR OF IRONS IT WILL LEAVE YOU WITH THIS AMAZING FINISH WHERE YOU CAN SHAPE INTO WHAT PLEASES YOUR EYE. I LEFT THIS TO BE AS BIG AS POSSIBLE AS I BELIEVE THE BIGGER THE BETTER.
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 81
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GO WITH THE FRO THIS BEAUTIFUL AFRO TEXTURE IS VERY FUN AND BOLD. I PLAYED WITH HER NATURAL HAIR BUT I BRUSHED THE CURL OUT AS MUCH AS I COULD TO CREATE THIS ROUNDED SHAPE, I THEN USED A BLOCK COLOUR TECHNIQUE TO GIVE ME HIGHS AND LOWS WITHIN HER HAIR. SUCH A POWERFUL SHAPE ON A BEAUTIFUL MODEL.
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KURLREBELLION THIS LOOK AGAIN I WANTED TO CREATE A SMOOTH CURL TO BRING OUT THE SHINE AND THEN I USED MY HANDS AND WAND TO CREATE THIS BEAUTIFUL ANTI HEAD SHAPE THAT WORKS REALLY WELL WITH THE HAIRCUT. I LOVE THIS LOOK AS IT DRAWS YOUR EYES TO THE LONE OF THE CUT.
HAIR Joseph Ferraro @ Joseph Ferraro MAKE-UP Maddie Austin STYLING Desiree Lederer PHOTOGRAPHY Jamie Blanshard
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STEP BY STEP
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STEP TWO
When hair is 80% dry, stretch out sections and direct ghd helios at the hair on high heat to stretch, then cool shot.
STEP ONE
Prep using ghd smooth & finish serum.
STEP THREE
Using the ghd helios and helios comb nozzle, stretch out the roots up to 2 inches away from the scalp, using high heat, then cool shot to set.
STEP FOUR
Continue this stretching and cool shot technique to stretch and direct the shape as desired.
CURL CRUSH
STEP FIVE
Detail the side of the hair by folding and securing with this season’s mint green and cobalt blue hued hair combs.
ghd’s Summer Punch collection of four summer blow-dry looks is inspired by the freedom, creativity and positive power of music. As always with ghd, it’s about beautiful, luxurious finishes – now with a focus on texture in all its forms, accessory detailing and aspirational touches that celebrate the craft of hairdressing. Presenting The Side Cinch, a full-bodied Afro look, with stretched-out curls and detailing added using the ghd helios comb nozzle (available this summer) to create volume and shape. Colourful combs add extra interest.
Find out more at www.rdr.link/HQ022
PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 85
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SPOTLIGHT
Bettertons have over seventy years experience in the scissor industry and understand the importance of having equipment you can rely on. With this in mind, and with the return to work approaching fast, now is the perfect time to make sure your equipment is ready. Bettertons offers support to all stylists in the form of a professional sharpening and honing service. This service costs ÂŁ16.00, and is available for all makes of scissors and thinners. Details of this service can be found in the sharpening section on our website at http://gebetterton.co.uk/G_E_Betterton/Pages/Sharpe
We are also receiving many enquiries about how to disinfect your scissors. For this we find that ethanol is effective (ethanol used for disinfecting hands is ok). Follow these simply steps: (1) Remove dirt with chamois/cleaning cloth. (2) Moisten gauze/cloth with ethanol and wipe scissor surface. (3) Wait for a while until the ethanol dries, then wipe to remove any remaining moisture. (4) Apply oil to pivot point. (5) When storing, apply thin layer of oil to blade. (6) When using again, wipe blade oil off. For any further information on scissor care, or any scissor related query, do not hesitate to contact us via our website www.gebetterton.com or telephone 013672 360701.
For more information on Bettertons visit www.rdr.link/HQ023
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SEVEN TEEN
HAIRDRESSERS REVEAL THEIR FAVOURITE IMAGES.
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Marcello Moccia There is something very evocative with this shot, I think it’s the perfect eye to lens image. She draws you in. It’s powerful but feminine, original and timeless.
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Robert Eaton I love the strength of this shot, the combination of texture, shape and colour but also the bold statement each model creates with such strong shapes and empowering cuts.
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Karine Jackson I love to show that you can use organic, sustainable colour to create beautiful images and client friendly colours and I love this image for that.
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Guy Kremer Love this picture. She was such a cute model – and suited this short hair style so well! Everything harked back for me to the 60’s – but it worked so well.
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Akin Konizi This image is definitely one of my favourites from my 2014 British Hairdresser of the Year Collection. It has everything that I aspire to – geometry, softness, aggression. Pushing the boundaries of fashion and tribalism, yet still wearable. Timeless.
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Clayde Baumann @ D&J Ambrose I love this image because of how visual the texture is in the colour. I love creating contrasting pops of colour which can be accentuated by the styling using different products.
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Errol Douglas MBE I love, love, love this shot! I try and always make my collections pertinent to the year to which they are created. This was the same year as the Queen celebrated her Jubilee.
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Jamie Stevens This image holds such special memories. It was from my personal best ever collection called ‘One’. This image is just everything to me. So strong yet so beautiful.
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Sally Brooks This image is from my 2017 British Hairdresser of the Year collection, which saw me win the title for the first time. I love it because for me, the models are timeless beauties who capture a moment in time.
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Jamie Hill Think this is my most favourite hair pic ever! Model was insane – her hair worked incredibly well. Make up was minimal – it just felt like we hit on a total connection.
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Joseph Koniak I think I love this shot because it captures the hair in motion – light, energy and a clean feel with timeless styling.
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Sharon Malcolm This is from my latest collection, Desire and is by far one of my favourite images from my career. It’s a strong image combining beauty and elegance with a creative edge showcasing skills I have learnt throughout my career. I love it!
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Danilo Giangreco, Danilo Hair Boutique I wanted to create a 60’s bob and mix it with some Italian glamour – I find the shape and the volume on the fringe very unusual but somehow the lines in this image work perfectly.
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Sam Burnett @ HARE & BONE I love this image, at first glance, it’s a clean effortless ponytail, but when you take a closer look it is defying gravity; no pins, no grips, no elastic or photographic trickery – just the hair held in place with product.
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Kerry Mather, KJM Salons I still absolutely love this image because of the blend between structure and movement – it is from my ADDICTION collection and it represents the mood and essence of this collection perfectly.
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Darren Ambrose It’s hard to pick just one shot as I’m always evolving – however this is one of my favourite shots: The vibe instantly exuded 50’s housewife – model totally unposed – LOVED IT
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Shaun Hall @ Mark Leeson I just adore the simplicity and strength of this image and I love shooting in black and white. I think it is absolutely timeless.
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