19 minute read
MILLET 100 YEARS
BY MARTA MANZONI
A family story, a mountain story
Millet's story is first of all a family story. In 1921 Marc and Hermance Millet began producing bags and small shoulder bags for the customers of their grocery store in Saint-Fons, near Lyon. The story started here, but soon moved to the foot of the mountains, in Annecy, where the Millets moved due to Marc's precarious health. After his death, the company continued in the hands of his wife: the family had no other means of subsistence and Hermance rolled up her sleeves to carry on her work and give her children a future. In fact, were René and Raymond, her children, who in 1945 took over Millet and turned their gaze to the peaks, beginning to design backpacks for high mountains: Louis Lachenal, a young but promising mountaineer, accompanied them in this challenge. In 1950, together with Maurice Herzog, he was the first to climb Annapurna, the first 8000m peak ever climbed by mankind, on his shoulders, faithful companion of every adventure, there was backpack designed together with the Millet brothers. The success of the company offered great visibility to the brand, and laid the foundations of Millet's far-sighted vision: to invest more in technical innovation and involve other mountaineers in the design of equipment suitable for new expeditions. A working method made up of great goals and collaborations with extraordinary men was then consolidated. Alongside the Millet brothers, there were René Desmaison, who invented the first harness in 1956, and Walter Bonatti.
Despite the international rise of the brand, Millet remains a family story, halfway between craftsmanship and industry. As René's daughter, Françoise Millet, recalls, speaking of her childhood: “I used to work with my brother on refinements during the holidays, we made holes all day long”. Then, in 1962, an accident caused the roof of the company to collapse: there was no question of stopping, the Millet family couldn’t sit idle, and so the sewing machines were brought into the families' apartment in order to keep working. In the 1960s the market opened up to enthusiasts who turned to Millet products for leisure. Marcel Brion, who has worked in the company since the 1950s, recalls: "We produced throughout the year. The biggest client was the Vieux Campeur. Sometimes they would call to ask for two hundred backpacks to be delivered within two days!”. Those were also the years of an important constructive innovation: the heavy canvas that initially made up the backpacks, was replaced by a new material, nylon. The revolution began with suspenders, padded with foam, without seams and also in nylon. The emblem of this innovation was the 1964 Sherpa 50 backpack, with removable yellow pockets. The innovations continued, and since 1977 Millet decided to diversify its offer and ventured into the clothing sector, creating the first parka that used a Gore-Tex membrane and other iconic garments, such as the Colorado gilet, in cotton padded with goose down, or the Blizzard and Glacier models, made of jacket and overalls.
The following year, Reinhold Messner joined the team of the French company and achieved the first ascent in history to Everest without oxygen, wearing Millet products. An exceptional new success for the brand, which had never stopped accompanying great athletes like Reinhold Messner in their adventures, on Messner’s shoulders there was the iconic yellow backpack with the triangular tricolor flag. "Perhaps this is precisely the engine of mountaineering: like fish in water, birds in the air, chamois on rocks, only the symbiosis with the environment makes a man a good mountaineer" Messner said.
Millet was fundamental to reach this goal, helping the mountaineer to move in his habitat, with freedom, awareness of his own means and confidence in his own possibilities. The 1980s were also characterized by continuous growth and research, with the launch of a clothing line for climbing. In this period the company achieved another important result, conquering the north faces of what will become Alps great classics, Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses, thanks to Christophe Profit and Eric Escoffier, both equipped with Millet products.
At sixty, René sold the company to devote himself to trekking and to the mountains, followed a year later by his brother. René, however, remained fond of the family business and passionate about products for mountaineering, as Françoise recalls: "he was interested in the new models I brought him, he touched the products and commented them showing extreme attention to detail, testing the seams to see if they held well. He had not lost his ritual gestures at all, his boundless love for the product". In the 2000s, the attention to quality led the company to obtain some important awards, which testify to the commitment to the innovation of materials. At the same time, the collaboration with great mountaineers who join the Millet team also continued, as in the case of Marco Siffredi, who in 2001 completed the descent of Everest on a snowboard, and Yannick Graziani, who in 2013 climbed the south face of Annapurna in alpine style. Even prestigious mountain guides chose the reliability of the brand, in particular, in 2009, the Chamonix Guides, the oldest society of guides in the world, the Guides of Hakuba, Japan, those of Grindelwald, Switzerland, and the Cervino Mountain Guides Society, Italy. In this period, technology advanced, but Millet's spirit did not change. On this basis, Rise Up is developed, the philosophy that underlies the Millet project of our days: the goal is to show the essence of the brand, its raison d'etre, its values and technical skills, always at the service of mountaineering and an all-round production for the outdoors, in all its forms. Rise Up wants to be a universal message, to encourage each of us to overcome our limits: an invitation to aim high and never give up. A global vision, which focuses on environmental sustainability, solidarity and the search for a wider space for women. Rise Up is the culmination of a centuries-old history, the Base Camp for new adventures, for increasingly ambitious climbs, with the awareness of the experience that has brought Millet to this day. "One hundred years of life are very important for a company, there are not many brands that remain on the market for that long. This milestone also represents a lot for the family. It was my great-grandparents who gave rise to this wonderful story, in 1921” concludes Romain Millet, General Manager Millet Mountain Group, at the helm of the centuries-old company.
Rising Change
For Millet Mountain Group, the love for the mountains has always meant committing to its protection: protecting nature is part of its DNA. A story that began in 1992, with the first partnership between Lafuma and the France Nature Environnement association. The first Lafuma backpack made of recycled cotton came in 1993 and the first eco-designed hiking footwear was launched in 2004. Millet Mountain Group also supports the “Responsible Mountain” project in Chamonix, in collaboration with the French Alpine Club. An event created to clean up waste from glaciers, in particular, for now, on the Mer de Glace. Other activities that have already started successfully are the expeditions to clean the base camps of the Himalayans eight-thousanders, and the collection and recycling of climbing ropes: 780,000 meters have already been destined to a new use. Upcycling consists precisely in the use of waste materials, intended to be thrown away, to create new objects. Other news came in 2019, with recycled plastic bottles (Re-preve) and recycled feathers (Re-down) for the production of Millet and Lafuma down.
Millet Mountain Group believes that the textile and outdoor industry must constantly question itself, to cope with the climate urgency, respecting the needs of future generations and available resources. The next step concerns a change in production relating to plastics and water. Another goal is to create collections that can remain on the market for at least three years, in order to pollute and consume less. Creating quality products that last over time, as it once did: this is the philosophy of Millet Mountain Group, which also offers the opportunity to use a service for repairing its products. Millet Mountain Group is also involved in the social sector and offers some products to charity, supporting the project of the 82-4,000 Solidaires Association, which brings to the mountains people who otherwise would not have this opportunity.
Since 2014, an internal eco-design standard has been adopted, it is called Low Impact, a certification that enhances products that respect the environment more, issued on the basis of various criteria: the use of materials with low environmental impact, certified materials, durable and high quality garments, absence of harmful chemicals and PFC-free collections. This year, on the occasion of the centenary of Millet, the commitment to sustainability has been strengthened through the Rising Change strategy, which sets new and ambitious goals, such as how to achieve Carbon Neutrality by 2025. By the same year the company aims to obtain a BCorporation certification, while materials used for products aims to be made eighty percent with Bluesign or Oeko-Tex certified materials with PFC free treatment, or, up to the forty percent with eco-friendly materials. By 2030, all chemicals such as PFCs will be eliminated. For Millet Mountain Group, the mountain is a summit to be climbed together, with a single vision, in an interdependent rope team between people and the company.
This year, on the occasion of the centenary, Millet sets new and ambitious goals, such as how to achieve Carbon Neutrality by 2025.
Walter Bonatti, evolution and revolution
Thanks to his simple and brilliant intuitions, Walter Bonatti contributed to writing the history of Millet. A relationship that has made possible the creation of iconic products, which have crossed the ages, without ever going out of fashion, conquering entire generations of climbers, who still today would never give up on the quality and functionality of backpacks that have become legends. Walter Bonatti was a free man who went through life "lightly, with a positive, never snooty self-confidence". Accustomed from an early age to solitude, around the age of eighteen he turned his gaze upwards, starting to climb close to home, from the Orobie to the Grigne. He soon moved onto much more demanding climbs, achieving great successes, including the Cassin route at the Grandes Jorasses and the West Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. In 1951 he opened the first route bearing his name, on the east face of the Gran Capucin. At the age of twenty-four, he participated in the Italian expedition that conquered, for the first time in history, the summit of K2. In August 1955 he climbed alone the South-West face of Petit-Dru, in the Mont Blanc massif, and in that same year he joined the Courmayeur Alpine Guides. At the same time he achieved important international expeditions, such as the climb of Gasherbrum IV. In 1959 Bonatti became Millet's technical consultant: at a time when mountaineering equipment weighed a lot, it was essential to have more practical and comfortable methods of transport, in order to achieve better performance. The mountaineer took part with enthusiasm in the development of the brand's most modern mountain backpacks, a collaboration that was based on a relationship of trust and mutual esteem, and would contribute to exceptional innovations in Millet products. At the age of 35, in 1965, the mountaineer successfully ended a spectacular career by climbing alone the north face of the Matterhorn. The beginning of a new life, always in the name of freedom.
Great mountains have the value of the men who climb them, otherwise they would be nothing more than a pile of rocks.
Passion across borders
In 1987, Grandes Jorasses, Eiger and Matterhorn were the scene of a great adventure, the greatest exploit in the history of mountaineering at the end of the twentieth century: the lonely concatenation of the mythical trilogy of the north faces of the Alps, achieved by Christophe Profit, equipped with Millet products. Today the company ideally proposes this trilogy, thanks to the support of three important Alpine Guide societies of these mountains: the Cervino Mountain Guides Society, the Grindelwald Mountain Guides and the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix.
The Cervino Mountain Guides Society was born in 1865, the year in which the summit of the iconic mountain was reached by a Swiss team, followed, a couple of days later, by an Italian one. Millet equipped the Cervino Mountain Guides providing them official clothing for mountain expeditions, both in summer and in the winter season. "I am proud that the Cervino Mountain Guides Society, one of the most internationally renowned society, has accepted our proposal to be equipped with our products also for the next three years, celebrating with us 100 years of mountaineering history and of Millet” said Romain Millet, CEO of Millet Mountain Group.
The Grindelwald Mountain Guides, equipped with Millet products since 2015, were born in 1889 and achieved extraordinary climbs. But the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix is the most important and numerous society in the world: founded in 1821, it has more than 270 members. Millet has a special relationship with the Chamonix Guides: it provides them with daily equipment and, above all, develops new products from a technological point of view, using Mont Blanc as a sort of laboratory in which to test the latest innovations in the field. Millet strengthens the historical trait d'union with the mythical trilogy of the Alps and continues to write the history of mountaineering by equipping the three guiding societies: a natural consequence of shared values, which strengthens the brand's vocation, its technical positioning and its credibility in the mountain world. Millet strengthens the historical trait d'union with the mythical trilogy of the Alps and continues to write the history of mountaineering by equipping the three guiding societies.
Marco Camandona
Marco Camandona is able to convey his passion for the mountains in an instant. Alpine Guide and ski instructor, federal ski mountaineering coach, he is Technical Director of the "Millet Tour du Rutor Extrême”, a ski mountaineering competition sponsored by the French brand. Ski mountaineering and ultra trail athlete, he is also a judge of the International Ski Mountaineering Federation and a member of the Valle d'Aosta Alpine Rescue. He has climbed the most challenging walls of the Alps and opened new routes in the Himalayas, climbing the five highest mountains on each continent and setting foot on nine eight-thousanders, always without oxygen. Since 2015 he has dedicated himself to a humanitarian project for children in Nepal with the Sanonani Onlus. Marco Camandona says he is proud to be part of the Millet team because he shares the same values of professionalism, versatility and quality. For him, Rise Up is like framing an instant: when you reach the top and raise your hands as if you could embrace the sky.
Nils Favre
Nils Favre is a force of nature. Equipped with a multifaceted and extraordinary talent, the climber raises the bar every time. Able to combine magnetism and curiosity for new challenges, he has always lived to the fullest. Nils Favre loves climbing in all its forms, especially the hardest ones. Trad, World Cup circuit, boulders, long routes, but above all unforgettable expeditions to the other side of the world. In everyday life, the Swiss mountaineer spends his free time with friends and above all playing golf! He’s been part of the Millet family for over eight years, because the company has always believed in him, accompanying him on his growth path as a climber. For him, the meaning of Rise Up is to reach the top, but above all to be able to get up after every failure.
Sophie Lavaud
Among the expeditions that will reach the Himalayas this spring, there will be two all female teams. One of them will reach Dhaulagiri, in Nepal, and will be led by Sophie Lavaud, who has already climbed eleven eight-thousanders. In her mountaineer's palmares there are the ascent of Kyungya Ri II and Ama Dablam. After a career in Geneva in the field of hospitality, luxury and cosmetics, Sophie now heads an events organization company, she works in the social sector and she’s active in humanitarian projects with the Terre des Hommes Foundation, and above all in the pursuit of an ambitious goal: to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders of the Earth.
She says she feels part of the Millet family because, on international expeditions, people's eyes sparkle when she mentions the brand. Rise up for her means finding the energy to climb her own personal Everest, every day.
Naile Meignan
Naile Meignan grows up on bread and chalk. Talented by nature, the French climber combines technical ability with mental strength, qualities that guide her in every new challenge. Very young, she soon found out her passion and reason for living, and cultivated it with perseverance and determination. She loves climbing because it makes her feel free: crag, bouldering, trad, indoor competitions. She is a slackline enthusiast, she says she feels part of the Millet family because it is made up of true mountain enthusiasts, with so many incredible experiences and common values to share.
Nahia Quincoces
International top runner, for her ski mountaineering means running on ridges at the edge of the sky without ever sparing herself the effort, and flying down on technical trails. Nahia Quincoces has written the history of this sport, from the ISMF World Cup to the extreme challenges of the Grande Course. Persevering and tenacious, she manages to make her dreams come true thanks to willpower and a deep commitment. When she's not working as a firefighter, she travels around the world with her bike, skis or van. She says she feels part of the Millet family because it is a complete brand, with products for all mountain activities. For her, Rise Up means constantly improving to achieve your goals, continuing to work hard, and looking further and further away. Her next project is Lenin Peak, in Kyrgyzstan.
Francesco Ratti
A memorable passing of the baton: on the occasion of Millet's 100th anniversary, Francesco Ratti paid homage to Walter Bonatti by repeating the climb of the north wall of Matterhorn, the historic route opened by the famous mountaineer and which bears his name, even if not alone as Bonatti had done. An exceptional ascent for Francesco Ratti, a mountaineer who says he loves, first of all, to get out of his comfort zone: it doesn't matter if this means jumping with a parachute, climbing a rock face or learning a new language. Alpine Guide, Ratti is part of the historic Cervino Mountain Guides Society. For him, mountaineering is a kind of addiction: passionate and tenacious, he finds satisfaction in simple things, but at the same time he always needs to raise the bar towards new experiences. He feels part of the Millet family because it is a company that truly believes in the profession of Mountain Guides and of Cervino Mountain Guides Society, supporting them concretely. Rise Up for him means constantly improving yourself in order to achieve new goals, without ever giving up.
Symon Welfringer
Out of nowhere he won the Piolet d’or. Symon Welfringer’s name has been written this year in the big list of contenders for the most prestigious international mountaineering award, after the opening of a new route on Tengi Ragi Tau, in Nepal, together with Silvan Schüpbach. Dry-tooling, international expeditions, indoor competitions, trail running. Eclectic and determined, if Symon Welfringer does one thing, he does it with art. Twenty-five years old, the young Frenchman has very clear ideas. After completing his studies in Earth Sciences at the School of Meteorology Engineering, he devoted himself full time to the mountains, from ice climbing to long routes, but adventures in pristine places at the edge of the world are what he prefers. He says he feels part of the Millet family because he shares their passions and values:
#MilletRiseUp
Rise Up is about encouraging everyone to overcome themselves, without ever giving up. In Millet's DNA there has always been a commitment to accompany all vertical world enthusiasts: the elites at the top of their challenges, mountain guides and professionals, amateurs and new promises, such as Sébastien and Fabien Guichardaz. The two guys from Valle d’Aosta were born and raised in 1999 in Cogne, the twins started with cross-country skis but, at fifteen, thanks to the meeting with Marco Camandona, they approached ski mountaineering. Sébastien's first race was in 2014, and it was not just any competition but the legendary and super tough Pierra Menta. The dream, for Sébastien, is that the discipline will become Olympic in order to take parte in the Milan-Cortina 2026 Olympics Games. Alongside the Guichardaz twins, to accompany them in their career, there has always been Millet, who deeply believes in the value of training and in young people. “Marco Camandona and the Millet team are our second family, they work hard to make young athletes grow” tell the Guichardaz twins. Millet enthusiastically supports the guys, giving them help that goes beyond the interest in the mere competitive performance. As Sébastien says: