Magazine
Ultralight Water Treatment
Increase your Dive Time
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atching Largemouth Bass on ait & Lures
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Magazine
Vol. 1- Issue 3
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Brandon Greenhill 205-733-4343 brandon@goneoutdoorsmag.com
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Danny Thompson danny@goneoutdoorsmag.com
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Annie McGilvray annie@goneoutdoorsmag.com
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The Escape
The Gam
P8
P14 Catching Large Bass
Ultralight Backpacking Water Treatment
P18 Florida Dove H
emouth
Hunter
The Rush
The Roar
The Usual
P24 Increase Your Dive Time- Fiji
P28 Truck & Jeep WheelsWhat’s right for you?
P4
The Editors Post
P6
Trade Show Finds
P34 New Product Spotlight P36 Ad Index
Contents
me
The Escape The Game The Rush The Roar Ad Index
The Editor’s Post:
It’s August. Summer is drawing to a close (theroetically... you can never be sure here in the deep south). It’s time to start trading in long road trips with the family for quick weekend getaways and short scouts into the woods and fields to see where the game is. It’s also a good time to put a little thought into gear selection and maintenance. As the seasons transition, so too will your loadout, whether it fits in a backpack, a trunk or a tackle box. And it’s a great time to start planning ahead for where fall is going to take you this year. Maybe it’s a lake across town; maybe it’s a reef halfway around the world. Either way, when the bug hits for an exciting outdoor adventure, it’s just not going to let up until your get GONE. So go on. Get out there an enjoy it. Danny Thompson Editor
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Photographer: Garry Tucker, USFWS. https://www.flickr.com/photos/usfwssoutheast/5687576458/in/photostream/
Innovation in Archery T By Annie McGilvray
Walk-On Pr
Walk-On Products has been manufacturing carpet padding since 2002. As successful as this business is for owner Jeff Moose, when the housing market began slowing down, he started brainstorming for other ideas to help fill the financial gap. The idea to create Walk-On Archery Targets and Backstops was born. In December of 2013, the first prototypes were made and sent out to various shops and individuals for testing. After much testing and highly positive feedback, a provisional patent was issued for the core of the product in May, 2014. Walk-On backstops differ from other backstops on the market. Walk-On backstops are more durable. These backstops contribute much of their durability to the High Density Solid Bonded Core Technology used in the making of each one. This advanced technology allows a longer life for each WalkOn backstop. These backstops also have an easy arrow pull. Certain backstops also have a Target Management System (TMS) which helps manage highly shot areas and is just another step Walk-On takes to ensure the life of their backstops. Two of Walk-On’s home targets, “The Robin Cube” and “The Moose”, have six true shooting sides. During testing, “The Moose” has been able to withstand 152 (and counting) broadhead shots in a 4” area without a pass through. Walk-On will continue to test it until a broadhead passes through.
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Walk-On paper target faces are printed on heavyweight paper and can be easily used on all Walk-On backstops. These target faces are long-lasting and will help in increasing accuracy. Walk-On offers target faces for all archery enthusiasts, bow hunters, amateur competitors and professional archers. Not only does Walk-On offer durable, easy-to-use and essential products for bow hunters and archery enthusiasts, all products are made with 100 percent recycled materials. The feedback for these products have been positive wherever they are tested. Walk-On held a shooting event at DropTine Archery in Advance, NC., where these products were introduced and tested beyond measure. These products stood the test and received extremely good reviews. Walk-On has attended the Dixie Deer Classic in Raleigh, NC., and the World Deer Expo in Birmingham, AL. During both of these shows, the products were tested by anyone who wanted to try them out and again, Walk-On products were given endorsing evaluations by the public. People will be able to buy Walk-On backstops sometime between October 1st and October 15th, 2014. Products will be available for immediate purchase on the Walk-On website, www.walkonarchery.com, and also available through distributors and dealers as orders are filled. Target faces are already available for consumers to acquire on the Walk-On website.
Targets & Backstops
roducts
World Deer Expo Birmingham, AL
Listed below is a brief description of each backstop: Robin Cube- Retail $109.99
Lil John Pro - $699.99
• 6 shooting sides • Polypropylene cover • 19”x19”x19” Cube • High Density Solid Foam Core Technology • Easy arrow pull • Built in carry handles • Weight 38lb
• 2 shooting sides • High Density Solid Foam Core Technology • Designed for home or commercial range use • TMS Grid system (Target Management System) • 19”x48”x62” • Weight 315-320lb
The Moose- Retail $179.99 • Rubberized Self-healing coating • High Density Solid Foam Core Technology • Vinyl Graphics • 6 shooting sides • Tested over 150 broadhead shots in a 4” concentrated area • Includes detachable carry handles • 19”x19”x19” • Weight 48lb
Lil John Tower- Retail $220.00 • 4 shooting sides • Polypropylene cover • High Density Solid Foam Core Technology • 4 built in carry handles • Stand up or lay on its side • Stackable to build a large backstop using multiple towers • Designed for home or commercial range use • TMS (target management system • 19”x19”x48” • Weight 100lb
Lil John- $499.99
• 2 shooting sides • High Density Solid Foam Core Technology • Designed for home or commercial range use • TMS Grid system (Target Management System) • 19”x48”x40” • Weight 205lb
2 Sided Bag -Retail $59.99 • 2 shooting sides • High visible blue, white and black graphics • Infused High Density Solid Foam Technology • 2 grommets for hanging the target • Easy carry handle • 20”x20” shooting area • Weight approximately 30lb
Ultrali
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If you can avoid carrying too much water, you’ll enjoy a far lighter pack. Your ability to find safe water and know how and when to treat it is a valuable skill. Pathogens can sometimes be found in water that seems safe. Much of the water we find outdoors is safe, especially at high elevations and when you’re near the original source. Always consider what is upstream, and err on the side of caution if you don’t know what is above you. Does the water look clear? Don’t worry too much about small animal life in the water. Worry more if there isn’t any life in the water, and ask why.
The article is so good and informative, that its first seven paragraphs are quoted below:
Ask the average outdoors person about Giardia lamblia or giardiasis, and they have certainly heard about it. Almost always, however, they are considerably misinformed about both the organism’s prevalence in wilderness water, and the seriousness of the disease if contracted.
This paper is the result of a critical distillation of relevant articles, retaining only those from scholarly, peer-reviewed, or otherwise professional and trustworthy sources.
Ad Index
With the advent of the Internet, the amount of information one can easily find on the subject is voluminous. Unfortunately, most of it is flawed in important aspects, being unsubstantiated, anecdotal, or merely quoting other unsubstantiated and anecdotal articles. Official sources, such as many informational publications put out by the US government, are not immune to this criticism.
The Roar
Much of the response to the threat of Giardia is overkill. A favorite scholarly article on Giardia was written by Robert L. Rockwell, PhD. It’s titled, Giardia Lamblia and Giardiasis, With Particular Attention to the Sierra Nevada. Bob Rockwell is an active mountaineer who made his first trip into the Sierra Nevada in 1952 to climb Mt. Whitney, and he repeats this climb several times annually. He has a bachelor’s degree in Physics from UC-Berkeley, and a PhD in Aeronautical and Astronautical Engineering (Biomechanics) from Stanford.
The Rush
Some experts talk about running water being safer than still water, but studies have found lake water to be among the cleanest because the ultraviolet rays of the sun kill bacteria near the surface. When taking water from a lake or pond, take water under the surface, but near the surface. Check the rate of water that is flowing into and out of the lake. Are there any stock animals or other animals that could make the water impure?
The Game
Water is one of the most important items in your pack, and one of the heaviest. You need it to sustain energy. You need it to avoid body aches, headaches, and becoming so uncomfortable that you don’t enjoy your hiking experience.
The Escape
By Steve K Green
Contents
ight Backpacking Water Treatment
One conclusion of this paper is that you can indeed contract giardiasis on visits to the Sierra Nevada, but it won’t be from the water. So drink freely and confidently: Proper personal hygiene is far more important in avoiding giardiasis than treating the water.
First, an excerpt written by a highly regarded wilderness physician:
“In recent years, frantic alarms about the perils of giardiasis have aroused exaggerated concern about this infestation. Government agencies, particularly the United States Park Service and the National Forest Service, have filtered hundreds of gallons of water from wilderness streams, found one or two organisms (far less than enough to be infective), and erected garish signs proclaiming the water ‘hazardous.”
And another, by researchers who surveyed the health departments in all 50 states and scanned the medical literature looking for evidence that giardiasis is a significant threat to outdoor folk:
Neither health department surveillance nor the medical literature supports the widely held perception that giardiasis is a significant risk to backpackers in the United States. In some respects, this situation resembles (the threat to beachgoers of a) shark attack: an extraordinarily rare event to which the public and press have seemingly devoted inappropriate attention. The entire article can be found at the web address listed at the beginning of the quote. Water-borne pathogens are disease-causing bacteria,
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viruses, and protozoa you can get from impure water. Protozoa are hard-shelled, single-cell parasites, or cysts, that range from 2 to 15 microns in size. The giardia lamblia cyst is one of the most common water-borne parasites in the United States. Cryptosporidium is also a protozoa, and cryptosporidiosis exhibits symptoms similar to giardiasis, including diarrhea, fatigue, fever, weight loss, nausea, and vomiting. Bacteria are smaller than protozoa, and range in size from .2 to 10 microns. They include E. coli and salmonella. Viruses are even smaller at .004 to .1 microns, and carry diseases like hepatitis. When hiking at lower elevations, you need to be cautious of manmade contamination from agriculture and industry, including herbicides, pesticides, and fertilizers. No matter what water treatment system you use, be sure your hands are clean, especially after bathroom breaks. This is one of the most important points of this article. Impure hands can often transfer microorganisms to food or water, and the water gets blamed for the result. Six main methods of purifying your water are available, and there are lightweight options for each.
1. Boiling
Boiling is the oldest and most basic way to purify water. A rolling boil will destroy any pathogens. You can kill microorganisms at sustained heat that is less than a boil, but it’s difficult to measure in the field. Make sure the water is actually boiling. A rolling boil is big bubbles that shake the pan, not a few tiny bubbles on the bottom of the pan. To be safe, bring the water to a rolling boil for 3 to 5 minutes.
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As a general rule, add one minute of boiling time for each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level. If you’re using the water for cooking, there’s no extra time, fuel weight, or cost involved. But boiling water for drinking is slow and tedious, and adds to the weight of the fuel in your pack. The real weight of boiling water is the weight of the extra fuel you need to carry.
2. Iodine
This has been the simplest, most compact, and most cost-effective system for many years. It kills bacteria and many viruses, but not cryptosporidium. Fortunately, cryptosporidium is still quite rare in North American natural water sources. Two tablets are used for each liter or quart of water (32 ounces). A quart is 95% of a liter. If you believe the water to be heavily contaminated, double the dose or contact time. In general, if you are in a hurry, double the chemical dose and halve the contact time. If you want better flavor, halve the dose and double the contact time. For cold water, the tablets take longer to work, so wait for the full recommended time. After adding the tablets to your water, you need to wait up to 30 minutes before you drink. If you rush the waiting time and drink the water, the iodine won’t work to deactivate the pathogens in your stomach. The most common brand of iodine tablets in the United States is “Potable Aqua.” The bottle has 50 tablets that can treat up to 25 quarts of water. The suggested cost is $6.95. The packaging says “No unpleasant taste,” but most people would strongly disagree, although the taste may bring back pleasant memories of camping as a youth. Even the Potable Aqua brand sells a version of the tablets that come with
a second tablet to neutralize the taste. The suggested cost of the combination of iodine tablets and neutralizer is $10.95. This second “PA Plus” tablet that neutralizes the taste, iodine odor, and brown color of the water is simply vitamin C. You need to wait until the iodine has done its work before adding the ascorbic acid tablet. You can crush your own vitamin C and add it to the treated water. Remember to add only enough to make the water clear. Your body can handle extra vitamin C, but too much can lead to diarrhea. After the iodine has done its work, you can also add powdered drinks instead of vitamin C to mask the iodine flavor. Experts argue over how much iodine is too much for the body. Iodine is essential to thyroid function. It is often added to salt because water and foods are sometimes deficient in iodine. With that said, the Potable Aqua packaging information says, “Not to be used on a continuous basis. For short term or limited emergency use only.” Some literature suggests using iodine tablets for six weeks or less. Although iodine is rapidly metabolized and cleared from the body, you should not use iodine tablets if you have an allergy to iodine, an active thyroid disease, or are pregnant.
Iodine tablets come in a brown bottle to help protect them from large temperature changes. Keeping the tablets dry helps them remain more stable. The tablets will last for up to four years unopened, and seem to work more quickly if they are fresh. They degrade with air, water, or light exposure, but since they are inexpensive, they can easily be replaced every year. The manufacturer of the tablets suggests against switching to a smaller bottle. So, with that warning, if you
make the switch, be sure to use a tight, brown bottle that keeps the tablets dry. Even the original cotton in the bottle is meant to absorb any moisture that may be present. If you re-package the tablets to a smaller bottle, try to keep a little of the cotton. When you treat water in a container with a lid, be sure to let some of the treated water clean the threads of the cap.
Of course, you won’t remove particulate by boiling water, using iodine or chlorine dioxide-based tablets, or ultraviolet light systems. So, if the water looks murky, you may want to start with a pre-filter that’s as simple as a coffee filter or cloth. The weight of a bottle of iodine tablets is 1.1 ounces. If you purchase the PA Plus that neutralizes the taste and odor, you’ll double the weight. If you re-package the tablets into a one-dram (1/8 oz.) brown bottle, the weight of the bottle is just .2 ounces and will hold 40 tablets, for a total weight of only .3 ounces. If you want to add your own vitamin C and keep the weight down, remember that powders in small ziplock bags can get in the re-sealable closures of the bags and make them difficult to use. You may want to use the smallest, lightest plastic container you can find.
Another iodine treatment is iodine crystals. This product is marketed in the United States under the brand name “Polar Pure.” About 30 small crystals of crystalline iodine come in a 3.2 ounce brown glass bottle. When the bottle is full of water the weight is 4.9 ounces. The suggested retail price is $12.95. You add water to the original small bottle for one hour before putting it in the water that needs to be treated. Of course, this pre-treating can be done as you hike. When you pour from the bottle, the crystals of iodine remain in the bottle. You can treat from 2 to 6 quarts of water at a time. After adding the solution to the water to be treated, wait 20 minutes before drinking. Water to be treated that is colder
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than 68 degrees F will take longer. A warmer solution of the original mixture from the bottle will have a higher concentration of iodine. So, fewer capfuls will be required, and more water can be treated before refilling the Polar Pure bottle. You can warm the bottle in your pocket or in sunlight. Dosage instructions, as well as thermal reactive paint on the bottle, tell you how much liquid to pour from the bottle into the water that is to be disinfected.
Pure iodine crystals are stable and slightly soluble in water but evaporate easily. The Polar Pure bottle should be kept filled with water and tightly capped. Water that has been treated should be tightly sealed, too. After the necessary disinfection time, powdered drinks or vitamin C can be added to make the taste more pleasant. Polar Pure has an indefinite shelf life. One bottle treats up to 2,000 quarts of water, so it’s very cost-effective. Some long-distance hikers have used the same bottle for their entire trip.
3. Chlorine dioxide
Another chemical treatment for water is chlorine dioxide. The most common brand is “Aqua Mira.” The lightest version is a package with two one-ounce bottles that have a total weight of 3.1 ounces, including a mixing cap. The suggested retail price is $13.95. This kit will treat up to 30 gallons (120 quarts) of water. The advantages of Aqua Mira are its light weight, low cost, compactness, and good taste, as well as its ability to kill pathogens including cryptosporidium. Chlorine dioxide is used worldwide to treat municipal water supplies, and is known to be an eradicator of bacteria (E-coli, salmonella, legionella), viruses (rolio, rotovirus, hepatitis), and protozoa (giardia and cryptosporidium). The oxidation kills pathogens by breaking down their cell walls. There is no chlorine in Aqua Mira. Even though chlorine dioxide has the word chlorine in its name, the two chemicals have completely different chemical structures. Part A of the kit contains 2% stabilized chlorine dioxide in an aqueous solution, and Part B contains phosphoric acid
activator.
To treat a quart of water, you place 7 drops of Part A and 7 drops of Part B in the mixing cap. If the water is cloudy or tinted, use 15 drops of each. You let the mixture react for 5 minutes, and then add it to the quart of water. Shake to mix. Let stand for 15 minutes. If the water is very cold, cloudy, or tinted, let stand for 30 minutes. Some people report a chlorine-like odor. The promotional literature, and some testers, report that the treatment improves the taste of the water. Chlorine dioxide does not discolor water. The kit has a four-year shelf life even after it is opened. Chlorine dioxide is available in tablet form in the Aqua Mira brand as well as some other brands, but takes much longer to use.
4. Filtration
Filters can give you treated water quickly, without any chemical taste. They work by trapping pathogens in a microporous screen. Some viruses are too small to trap. Only filters with an iodine matrix are capable of killing all viruses. All filters eventually need cleaning, sometimes in the field. Filter lifetime is determined by the quantity and size of particles in the water. Filters may also clog from the growth of organisms in the filter medium. Some filters can be back flushed. Some can be chemically cleaned. Some need a replacement filter. Ceramic filters can be cleaned and can last a long time, but care must be taken so they don’t break,
Backpackers like gravity-fed filters because of their obvious advantage of getting filtered water without the pumping. The Katadyn Base Camp weighs 12.1 ounces and has a suggested retail price of $65.
5. Ultraviolet light devices
especially when it’s cold. To qualify as a water purifier, a device has to meet the Environmental Protection Agency standard of removing 99.99 % of all identifiable bacteria, protozoa, and viruses. Finer filters generally mean slower and more difficult pumping.
Filters can be as small and simple as the “McNett/Aqua Mira Emergency Frontier” filter that uses activated carbon to filter up to 20 gallons of water. It is used like a straw, weighs less than an ounce, and retails for around $10. Lightweight “bottle filters” from such companies as “Bota of Boulder,” “H2O On Demand,” and the “Katadyn Exstream” are light at about five to eight ounces, and inexpensive at around $20 to $50. Some list incredibly high microorganism and contaminant removal, including 99.99% removal of giardia and cryptosporidium. Of course, these filters aren’t free flowing. You have to suck to get the water through. Pump filters include well-known brands like “Timberline,” “Katadyn,” “First Need,” and “MSR/Sweetwater.” They can be as light and inexpensive as the Timberline Eagle at 5.6 ounces and $25. This filter is one of the fastest and works well in water that is not heavy in particulate. The Katadyn Hiker is not the lightest at 11 ounces, but is a favorite because it is so user-friendly. It retails for $60. The Katadyn Mini Ceramic Microfilter is among the lightest at 8 ounces and is known for its quality. The price is $90.
Ultraviolet light is becoming popular because it’s effective in quickly killing all microorganisms. The ultraviolet light destroys their DNA which prevents them from reproducing. Early models were expensive and didn’t work with a wide variety of water containers, but that’s all changing. The “SteriPEN Adventurer” weighs 3.6 ounces and ships with two CR123 batteries. Rechargeable batteries are also available. Nickel metal hydride batteries are recommended for cold weather use. This style or lithium disposable batteries will give you about 200 treatments. The Adventurer can purify a quart of water in 48 seconds. The cost is $129.95.
“Disinfection of Drinking Water (Potable)
When boiling of water for 1 minute is not practical, water can be made potable by using this product. Prior to addition of this product, remove all suspended material by filtration or by allowing it to settle to the bottom. Decant the clarified contaminated water to a clean container and add 8 drops of this product to 1 gallon of water (2 drops to 1 quart). Allow the treated water to stand for 30 minutes. Properly treated water should have a slight chlorine odor. If not, repeat dosage and allow the water to stand an additional 15 minutes. The treated water can then be made palatable by pouring it between clean containers several times. For cloudy water, use 16 drops of this product per gallon of water (4 drops to one quart). If no chlorine odor is apparent after 30 minutes, repeat dosage and wait an additional 15 minutes.”
The “mUV water purifier,” or “AquaBobber,” from Meridian Design, Inc. weighs 2.4 ounces and costs $49.99. It operates with an internal battery that can be recharged by attaching its magnetically connectable leads to almost any external battery including AAA, AA, C, and D sizes. The device floats and can be inserted into almost any container, including a standard water bottle opening. A quart of water can be treated in 90 seconds. You can perform 20 treatments per charge.
The dosage listed is for treated city water, so lake and stream water will likely need the higher amounts. Use only liquid bleach that contains 5.25% to 6% sodium hypochlorite and doesn’t have any perfumes, dyes, or other additives. Be sure to read the label. Treating with bleach should be thought of as an emergency method. Although countless websites list this method of treatment, they do not show data for effectiveness against giardia, cryptosporidium, and other pathogens. And these sources do not list the effects of long-term use on the body.
6. Sodium hypochlorite (Household bleach)
Now you’re equipped with a wide variety of water treatment options. Your region and style of camping will tell you what water treatment is right for you. Hike light. Have fun.
Agitate the water gently, until the light tells you it’s done. UV purifiers don’t work in murky water, so if that’s the only water you have, you’ll have to pre-filter it until it’s not cloudy. You also need to make sure you don’t drop a UV device.
A large number of agencies, including the Red Cross, tell you that ordinary bleach, such as Clorox or Purex can treat water in emergencies. The Clorox website lists these instructions:
There is an abundance of information about water treatment from the Environmental Protection Agency and the Centers for Disease Control.
Steve Green of http://www.hikelight. com is an avid hiker who has enjoyed trimming his backpack weight for over 40 years.
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atching Largemouth Bass on ait & Lures
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What can I say about the Largemouth Bass that has not already been said? Probably nothing. Largemouth Bass are the most popular gamefish in North America and are the only fish I can think of that is found in all 50 US states. They are the subject of countless fishing shows, magazine articles, books, etc. US and Japanese tackle companies probably pour more money into equipment for these fish than any other.
Largemouth Bass are an aggressive fish that can be targeted using a huge variety of techniques, so no matter what kind of fishing you like to do you can probably catch a bass with it. In fact, I cannot think of a single category of artificial lure that will not catch a bass. Poppers, Soft Plastics, Spoons, Spinners, Jerkbaits, Crankbaits, Spinnerbaits, Stickbaits, etc all will work under the right conditions. Bass are ambush feeders that pounce on prey that comes by them. Even when they are not feeding, they will often pounce on lures out of sheer aggressiveness. Every bass fisherman probably has a story about catching a tiny bass on a lure that was bigger than it. There is no way it was planning to eat it; the fish just wanted to smack it and show it who was boss. Largemouth Bass are found in lakes and rivers throughout the
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US and also in a number of other countries including Japan where they are very popular. They are a hardy fish and easily transplanted. Largemouth relate very strongly to cover and structure, so if you find that you can usually find the fish. I release all fish I catch as I have never found them to be very tasty. They are easy to release by grabbing them firmly by their lower jaw, which immobilizes them (more or less). Largemouth Bass can attain weights of over 20 lb but very, very few fish get anywhere near that size. The world record of 22 lb, 4 oz stood for 77 years until it was tied in 2011 in Japan. Any bass over 6 lb is generally a female. The average bass caught is probably only around 2 lb. The biggest one I ever saw in person was over 16 lb and was caught in Arizona on a live salamander (not sure if that was legal). I’m still searching for my double-digit fish; I lost one over 10 lb at the boat that still makes me want to cry. I have caught hundreds of Largemouth Bass but there are many people who know more about catching them than I do. However, I hope some people will find the information below useful.
Contents The Escape
The Game
Tackle for Largemouth Bass varies tremendously depending on the technique you use. You could be using a heavy baitcasting rod with 50lb braid with a 30lb leader to fish heavy trout imitation swimbaits or a light spinning rod with 4lb test to fish small drop shot plastics. For most of the techniques we use here in heavily-pressured California (other than large swimbaits) we fish with 6lb test. When we have fished in Mexico we have used 30lb braid with 20lb leader as the fish are not shy there and they seem to fight harder. Also there is a higher chance of a bigger fish down there. The best setup would be a Daiwa Steez baitcasting rod paired with a Daiwa Steez baitcasting reel spooled with Daiwa Samurai braided line. For spinning gear, a Daiwa Certate reel with a Daiwa Steez spinning rod.
Drop Shotting - Drop shotting involves suspending a small plastic lure above a small weight using the drop-shot knot which can be found online. This is then either cast out or dropped down and then jiggled up and down and then allowed to rest. You should keep the line somewhat taught throughout so that you can feel the bite. Slowly reel the lure back a foot or so at a time pausing to jiggle it frequently and then stopping.
Techniques
Ad Index
There is no way we can cover all techniques for Largemouth Bass. we will touch on the ones we use the most which are: drop shotting, plastic worms/lizards, senkos, and swimbaits. The first three techniques seem to work for them everywhere we have fished for them, from Wisconsin to Mexico.
Personally I have always liked using the Roboworm 4” Sculpin for drop shotting. These work so well that I have never felt the need to seriously give anything else a try. The Purple Blue Neon color seems to always generate strikes for me if there is not some other hot color that I know of that is working on the particular lake I’m fishing. If the bass are feeding on shad I like the Natural Shad color. Most of my drop-shot fish have come on one of those two colors and I usually only switch when I run out of them. I use the Baby Bass color too if there are a lot of Bass fry swimming around. When the bite is on you can go through a lot of these lures as they are pretty soft and you usually don’t catch more than a bass or two on each. You don’t usually get huge bass while drop shotting (although you never
The Roar
Lures
The Rush
Tackle
know) but it is a good technique for numbers. If I can’t buy a bite on a well presented drop shotted plastic then I assume it is shaping up to be a tough day. The second you feel a bite you should set the hook.
Plastic Worms and Lizards - The plastic worm is one of the oldest bass lures and it still works very well. we have grouped plastic lizards in here as well because we tend to fish them the same way. Personally I like Berkeley 7” Original Power Worms or Power Lizards as my basic worm lure. We like the ribbontail design. Purple, Watermelon, Green Pumpkin and Black with Chartreuse tail are the colors we use most often. It’s not a very natural looking color, but for whatever reason bass seem to really like purple. We usually fish them Texas rigged (see pic). We use the lightest weight possible to get them to the bottom because a lot of times you get a bite while it is sinking so it shouldn’t sink too fast. Once they hit the bottom you let them sit there for a bit, then slither them forward on the bottom a foot or two and let them sit again. If there is a rock or something there, inch it over the edge and have the worm fall vertically down the side, as this will often generate strikes. When the lure is sitting on the bottom you can often feel a “tick-tick-tick” as the bass inhales the lure and chomps on it. When you feel that, reel in the slack and set the hook. You also have to watch your line and if it starts to move then a fish has grabbed the lure and is swimming away. Reel tight and set the hook. The good thing about plastic worms is that they feel natural and bass will often hold on to them for quite a while compared to hard lures that they spit out instantly. Sometimes fish like a worm fished on a straight retrieve so we will mix it up with that as well. Sometimes when you are reeling the worm in fast after crawling it along the bottom you will see a fish chase it. That can be an indication that the fish are more aggressive and may respond to a faster retrieve. Normally I like to fish worms very slowly though. Senkos - In the world of lures these have to be one of the easiest things to fish. You can rig them either Texas or wacky, cast them out (unweighted if fishing shallower, and with a small weight if fishing deeper) and just let them sink. Sometimes you will see the line move off in which case a fish has taken it and you should reel up the slack and set the hook. If not, just let it sink to the bottom and wait a bit. Lift the rod slowly and if you feel weight, set the hook. If not, lift it up a few feet, reel in a bit, and let it sink again. I usually do this 2-3 times before reeling in. The main temptation with Senkos is to try to do too much with them. For whatever reason bass just love eating them if they just sink and sit.
I have a small bass in a little pond in my backyard. Once in a while I throw a lure in there to see if he will hit it. He is wise to everything but the Senko. Bites that thing every time. Swimbaits - I am far, far from an expert on these but being in Southern California I felt they were worth a mention. This technique is used primarily in California to target big bass in lakes that are stocked with trout. The swimbaits are generally between 6”-12” and designed to resemble stocked trout. There are a wide variety of them, some of which float, others of which suspend, and others of which sink fast. Retrieves used vary widely as well from reeling quickly to barely moving the lure. You will have to do some research on what swimbaits work in your local lake and then focus on how to fish those particular ones. You generally will not get a lot of fish with these, but most of the biggest fish caught in California come on these (and sadly quite a few come
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from illegally using live trout for bait as well). You have to really commit to throwing these baits for a long period of time, because after a couple hours of chucking these heavy baits with no results it can be very tempting to go back to the drop shot or some other high percentage technique. When you mention swimbaits in relation to bass most people think of large trout imitation swimbaits. However, I have caught quite a few bass with small shad paddletail swimbaits, and I like to use these when trying to cover a lot of water in an area where bass are eating shad. Baits
Largemouth Bass readily eat a variety of baits, although many fishermen (including myself) choose to pursue them primarily or exclusively with artificial lures. Some good baits include large nightcrawlers, crayfish, and shad. I would fish them with as little weight as possible and set the hook as soon as you feel the bite to lessen the chance you will hook the fish in the throat or stomach. If you plan to release fish you should pinch down the barbs on hooks when using bait. That way, if the fish gets hooked in the stomach you can still easily get the hook out with less (although some) damage to the fish. Spawn
If you have never caught a Largemouth Bass you should go in the Spring when they are spawning. Depending on what part of the country you are in this could be sometime between March and May. During this time small male bass flood the shallows and can often be easy to spot. The big females come in for a much shorter time but are more vulnerable to being caught than they usually are. The small male bass can often be caught one after another on drop shotting and other similar techniques. Anyone can feel like a pro bass fisherman during the spawn, even if they don’t have a boat. If you can catch them like that every other time of year then you really are a pro. Where to get the big ones
The biggest bass in the country are consistently caught in California, Texas, and Florida. However, the big ones are tough to catch as almost all trophy waters in this country receive heavy pressure. The best places to target the trophies and have a good chance of landing one (even if you aren’t a pro) are all in Mexico. Lake Baccarac and El Salto kick out a lot of trophies each year. Agua Milpa is awesome for numbers of smaller fish with the occasional bigger one thrown in and Huites has a lot of mid-size bass with an occasional double-digit fish. I have fished Agua Milpa and Huites but not the other two. Security concerns unfortunately cloud these fisheries at the moment, but hopefully that will not continue. People still fish them frequently in spite of that. Check out great tips on catching over 70 other species of gamefish, as well as unbiased tackle recommendations and high quality fishing photos at my website: http://www.howtocatchanyfish.com
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Vol. 1- Issue 3
The Rush
First of all just what is a dove? According to the dictionary it’s either a stocky seed or fruit eating bird of the pigeon family, with a small head, short legs and cooing voice, or a person who advocates peaceful or conciliatory policies... with a small head, short legs and cooing voice.
The Game
It doesn’t sound manly; Dove Hunter. Somehow it doesn’t seem to conjure up the same rough and tumble images of a deer hunter or hog hunter or duck hunter. Dove Hunter. More like images of tea time and fancy little sweets in the afternoon under an umbrella in a white suit while holding a quaint side by side double barrel shotgun. Dove Hunter, they say doves are the most hunted bird in America. I’ve questioned that before and someone suggested I shut the hell up or try it before I write it off as a pastime not worth the effort. That sounded like a challenge to me.
The Escape
By Tim Forge
Contents
Dove Florida Hunter
hmmm. Tell me more.
I could go to a private hunting preserve but I didn’t want to spend a lot of money. Further research revealed state wildlife managed dove fields of about fifteen were scattered about Florida, the closest to me being the DuPuis dove fields just east of Lake Okeechobee.
Ad Index
The next thing I had to find out was exactly where these doves hang out in large enough numbers that would justify trying to hunt them. If I lived in Texas I would have millions to shoot at. It’s considered the dove hunting Mecca of the United States. Florida is not.
The Roar
OK, doves are often seen in rural settings or farm areas or simply open areas around town where they like to feed on seeds of many types of plants. Doves are very productive breeders often producing up to six broods a year. In the fall there is a general migration south and in the spring they head north. But a lot of them simply stay in the same area all year especially in the southern states.
But what the heck is a dove field? Apparently it’s a large plot of land with special seed crops being grown that will draw these birds’ attention. These particular fields at DuPuis are two fields side by side about sixteen acres apiece. In the afternoon towards the evening, the birds begin to fly out to the fields for a bite to eat. One Sunday afternoon a week during the season, hunters are allowed to shoot on the perimeter of the fields. The gun of choice, of course, is the twelve gauge pump that will hold three shells of number 7 ½ or 8 lead shot. Two or three boxes per hunter are recommended.
There’s a permit application period where you submit your application and a drawing for the season’s spots then takes place. My son and I had drawn three permits for the season at two different fields. Beginner’s luck I guess. These are single use permits and non transferable which kind of sucks because if you want to bring a guest they have to come in as a walk-in. At three o-clock you have to be at the attendant’s shack to see if you can get in which you usually do from what the attendant told me. But if you check in at 11:00 with your permit because it’s first come first pick on the available spots, you have to drive a mile up the road from the fields back to the shack for your guest to get a permit. You have to be in a relaxed mood to hunt dove. We arrived at ten thirty to see at least a dozen hunters dressed in full camo standing around waiting. X-man’s white t-shirt wasn’t going to cut it. We had brought Dakota, our dashing Golden Retriever, and he was happy just to get out of the truck and take a leak. I thought I would impress the other hunters with his retrieving abilities, so I tossed a stick
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out into the freshly mowed grass. Dakota just looked at it and proceeded to take a dump. Don’t even think I was about to pick that up. Laid is played. Not having hunted here before we didn’t have a clue what the best spots were but I knew I didn’t’ want to face into the setting sun. I picked a spot in the center west edge of one of the fields so we would be facing east.
I had read through the WMA regulations and realized that I could technically accompany my son without waiting to go in as a walk-in because he has a mentor license which means I would have to supervise him as the permit was in his name. We would, however have to share the bag limit of 15. Somehow I didn’t think that would be a problem. The shooting would start at noon but the birds wouldn’t be flying until after four. This is the part where you have to have a little patience and think of something to do for three hours. That’s why dove hunting can involve fishing poles. I knew that Lake Okeechobee was only a few miles down the road so we drove out there and fished from one of the access areas on the levee road. Nothing was biting for us though but a little kid caught a decent size bass.
Our next quest was to run down the road a bit to find a convenient store for some snacks. How far could it be I asked, but ended up eight miles away at a tiny rundown migrant community called Canal Point. Note to self, if you want to get anything to eat or drink before coming out to this area, stop in Indiantown on your way in first which is the last place you can get anything better than stale potato chips anywhere
near the fields. This is sugar cane country. There isn’t much else out here.
At about three o clock we were back at the fields getting our gear together; guns, shells, lawn chairs, small ice cooler and, of course, snack bag. Dakota was ecstatic to get out and start sniffing and peeing, he’s like a camel in reverse. There’s just no end to the amount of pee that comes out of that dog. We walked a couple hundred yards down the dirt path to find our number. Each space was separated by about eighty yards, and I could see the various hunters in the distance going to their spots. On the opposite side I could see that someone had a couple of dove mojos set out in the field, and, what was that? A camouflaged umbrella? It was rather warm in the afternoon sun. I had given my tan hunting vest to X-man so he could be camouflaged a little bit at least. As it turns out, doves have pretty good vision and will flare away if you stand out like a white man at a P. Diddy concert. We settled into our chairs after I mashed down the weeds for Dakota to sit and blend in. He’s already the color of dried grass so I wasn’t too worried. I sat back, popped a soda and waited. Now this was relaxing. “What does a dove look like again?” X-man asked.
“Ah, it’s those little fluttery grey looking birds that fly kind of funny.” I replied, the eminent wildlife biologist, as I opened another bag of stale chips and started munching. “There, right there to your left, that was one!” I exclaimed, spitting potato chips all over my shirt, watching it fly away. “Didn’t see it.” X-man replied.
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We heard some shots to the right of us. I couldn’t see if they hit anything or not. Then on the far side of the field I heard more shooting and could see everyone shooting at the same small flock of birds.
“Right over your head.” I said, watching three more doves fly away. “Didn’t see them either.” X-man replied.
“There’s some coming in to your left.” I said.
“I see them dad.” X-man said, like I was nagging. He took two shots and missed. Then some more came in from behind us over his shoulder. “On your side again I said.” This time he hit one and it fell in the short grass. “Was that a dove?” He asked.
“ Uh, duh. OK, Dakota now, fetch.” I instructed, pointing my hand. Dakota jumped up and just wagged his tail like I was going to give him something to eat. “Go show him where it is.” I told X-man, “I swear to god that dog needs glasses.”
“He’s cross eyed, dad.” He got up and went after the bird with Dakota following. When they were close, Dakota finally saw the bird and bolted after it for the retrieve. Then he brought it all the way back to where I was sitting. “Good boy.” I said, taking the dove from his mouth. Once he sees it, he goes right after it.
Some more flew over from behind, I shot and one sailed out into the field. I hustled out to where I thought it was with Dakota following right behind. The bird flew up suddenly, I shot
and missed. Dakota looked at me like he was saying “What the hell? You suck.” “Yeah? Well you’re blind. And you smell.” “That was low.” “Own it”
“Shut up and give me some of those potato chips you’re hoarding in that bag.”
I took the walk of shame back to my spot and cursed myself until another flock flew towards my right. I fired a couple of shots and one fell down towards the canal that marked the end of our field. I went over to find it, and could see it floating in the middle of the canal. I pointed Dakota’s head towards the dove until he saw it and plunged into the canal to retrieve the bird. I looked around paranoid of alligators.
I heard X-man shoot as I was turning around and could hear him say, “Got it.” We were using number 7 ½ game loads and I felt that they should have enough knock down power if we didn’t shoot too far out. But, there’s the rub.
Small groups and pairs, were flying right across the guys on the opposite side of the field. We heard a lot of shooting. Some continued flying close enough for us to take some shots. Flying doves with their erratic flight made us miss a lot, but we managed to bring a couple more down. During this shooting we could see a couple of FWC officers on the other side stopping at each hunting group to check
out their licenses, I presumed. Shit, ours were in the truck, oh well. It took them about forty five minutes to reach us, and they asked to see our weapons to check the magazine capacity of my Remington pump. Your shotgun isn’t supposed be able to hold more than two shells in the magazine. They insert a little gauge up in there to measure it.
X-man was using the twelve gauge over- and- under so there was nothing to check. I explained that our licenses were back at the truck. Then the officer quizzed me on what licenses we had. I must have rattled off the correct answer because we were let off with a warning. Before they left, a small flock of doves flew right over us as the officers stood in front. I figured it would be bad form to take some shots, and watched the birds fly away. Soon after they left some more doves flew close enough for a shot. X-man connected with one and it fell into the field. Dakota was beginning to get the hang of this thing and ran out ahead of my son and sniffed this bird out.
The sun had set over the horizon and the birds stopped flying. “I guess that’s it then.” I said, “Let’s wrap it up and go get something to eat.” Dakota may not understand the subtleties of the English language but he knows what “eat” means and jumped up, excited about the possibilities. The only thing better than chasing after birds is scarfing down on a dollar hamburger.
The doves would be saved for another day. They don’t really taste like chicken, more like pigeon, but that’s another story.
For other bird hunting articles go to http://www.duckquester. com
Increase your Dive Time on Fiji’s Stunning Reefs - A Discussion On Diving And Air Consumption
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Yes, of course, Fiji has abyssal walls and drop offs and pelagic action to suit anyone’s taste but the fact of the matter is the most abundant life on coral reefs is at less than 20 metres. This is great news for those wishing to spend their time under water rather than sitting on the dive boat. We do not have the extreme physiological impact of cold water and rarely are dives limited by no-decompression times but rather by air consumption. Therefore there is a real opportunity to max out on your underwater time.
It is well documented that there are physiological differences between men and women! In terms of diving, women statistically fare better than men with regards to air consumption. Lung capacity is generally smaller as is muscle mass - both are air consumption relevant. It’s not a golden rule, but you can assume that someone 5 ft tall and 110 lbs will consume less air at rest than someone 6 foot 4 inches and weighing 200 lbs.
Comfort / skills
Positive buoyancy at the surface
A good way to overcome this is to hang about on the surface. Let the dive boat pick someone else up first after a dive whilst you float around. Have enough air in your BCD to lie back and stop kicking completely. If there is a short swim to the dive site, it is often easier to do this a
Ad Index
This is a huge issue and should have been stressed time and again on your initial dive course. In my experience, over 30% of all qualified (and experienced) divers we take diving are slightly out of breath before they start their first dive, especially when they have not dived recently! Think what this will do for air consumption on the dive. Why is this the case? They are paddling, don’t have enough air in their BCD’s, are uncomfortable with the surface conditions etc. Basically, they forgot to trust and use their equipment. It’s not only air consumption at stake here. A large percentage of all diving incidents occur on the surface, mostly through over exertion.
The Roar
This is a fairly obvious place to start. Unless you are comfortable in the water and confident of your diving skills can you ever be relaxed enough to achieve optimum air consumption? Being relaxed (or able to be relaxed) is the key to everything I discuss below - the more relaxed and natural you are underwater the easier diving will become - it is a self fulfilling prophesy. Do a deal with yourself - practice 1 thing you are uncomfortable with on every dive (yes, even mask clearing or removal!) until it becomes second nature. After that, don’t stop do it because you enjoy it!
The Rush
So, can we do something about our own air consumption underwater or do we have to put up with what we are given by nature? As a dive resort owner who has completed over 1500 dives in the last 5 years in Fiji (mostly as a guide or instructor) I have some personal opinions and observations on this subject. Some you may agree with - others not - let me know. Before I continue, let me state the obvious. All of us learned on our first ever dive course (whichever agency sanctioned) that it is essential we breathe continuously underwater. That is not to say that we might not pause now and again however breath holding, withholding breathing, skip breathing or whatever you want to call it can lead to serious problems. See what you think of my suggestions , try them out and then see if your breathing is even the real issue at stake.
The Game
For many, however, short dives are the reality and there is the frustration of having to do your safety stop and end the dive whilst other divers are still enjoying being underwater with plenty of air still in the tank. Inevitably, when those other divers return to the boat they are asked ‘how do you do that - what is your secret’. This always prompts the macho ‘how much air do you have left’ discussion between everyone on the dive boat - (there obviously has to be some competitiveness to diving!) - But what are the underlying reasons for the disparities.
The Escape
Fiji’s reefs are known worldwide as being some of the richest in the world teeming with life and colour. For the purposes of this discussion, the key elements of this ‘life and colour’ are that they occur in tropical waters - generally warm and clear - and also at relatively shallow depths.
Contents
By Richard Akhtar
couple of metres under the water than at the surface - especially in choppy conditions. Believe me; if you can avoid getting even slightly out of breath you will save masses of air.
Depth
As already mentioned, it is not essential to go deep or stay deep on Fiji’s reefs. You might want to go and look at something specific at depth but if you find you use more air than your fellow divers, try reducing the average depth of your dive. With clear water, you can happily be a few metres above the other divers and still stay in touch. Assuming a conservative air consumption of 20 litres per minute at the surface and also assuming you breathe a tank from 200 bar at the start to 50 bar back on the surface (total 1800 litres) - at an average depth of 15 metres you will have enough air for a 36 minute dive. At an average depth of 10 metres you will have enough air for a 45 minute dive. This is a massive 25% increase in time. Why not spend time exploring the shallows during the latter part of the dive. This is perfect in the tropics as you will see a huge amount of life in great natural bright light. It is also great for your dive profile and repetitive dive no decompression limits.
Equipment
Again, as you learned in your dive course, equipment causes drag through the water, drag means extra effort which means higher air consumption. You learned therefore that the gear you carry should be streamlined. What I am about to say may not be popular as many divers are very attached to their ‘gear’. Consider streamlining your gear by not taking it in the water in the first place or better still, leaving it at home! I can virtually put money on the guy who has been diving for years and is carrying half a dive shop underwater with him will be the first up.
weight you carry, the more inertia you have (think about a truck braking as opposed to a car) meaning it takes more effort to change direction and as we know effort equals air - is there such a thing as a triple whammy? Under weighting will have similar impact on your air consumption as you struggle to kick down towards the end of a dive whilst your tank is trying to pull you up.
Remember you will breathe 1.5kg plus of air during your dive so always adjust your weight for the air you expect to have at the end. If you are correctly weighted for 1 dive are you necessarily correctly weighted for another (assuming no changes in wetsuit etc)? Not necessarily! If diving in current, which is frequently in Fiji, I find it easier to be slightly over weighted. You can use less energy if having to swim into a current by ‘falling’ into it using your extra weight. Also if there are up currents you can use the weight to your advantage without having to swim down. At any rate, think about the dive you are doing and weight accordingly.
Buoyancy
Mastering your buoyancy is a key skill relevant to all aspects of your diving. If you have complete buoyancy control you can eliminate extraneous movements underwater. As water is so dense, all movements use much more energy than the same movement on land and hence use more air. Correct buoyancy also allows you to perfect the fin kick of your choice to propel you most efficiently through the water. There are many fun exercises you can do to hone your buoyancy but something you should do all the time on every dive is use fixed visual references to give you a continual picture of where you are relative to everything else. If you catch buoyancy lapses quickly, you spend less energy correcting them thus conserving more air.
Trim
It’s always a matter of personal choice, but when diving in tropical waters you really can pare down to the bare essentials. Why not take off your dry suit inflator hose you won’t need it. It feels so much better when you’re not laden down with all the latest gadgets and it does wonders for your air consumption (and excess baggage charges!). If you don’t have the ideal tropical setup, consider hiring you gear - your dive resort should have plenty of high quality equipment available for rental.
If you get yourself neutrally buoyant but find that you fall forwards, backwards or to one side or another then your trim needs adjusting (imagine everyone on a small plane suddenly standing up and all moving to one side!). You can correct yourself in the water, (using movement, energy and therefore more air) as many times as you wish however you will always fall back unless you correct the cause. The solution is normally as simple as shifting a weight slightly. It won’t fix itself - don’t put up with it!
Correct weighting is essential for efficient air consumption. Weighting is a key component in buoyancy control (discussed below) but also has a tremendous impact on your efficiency in the water. Overweighting tends to drag the lower part of the body down so even if neutrally buoyant, divers need to kick continuously to remain horizontal in the water. All that kicking requires energy which requires air. To make matters worse, if you are over weighted, you will need to add more air to your jacket to remain neutrally buoyant at depth - your jacket will therefore have more volume causing more drag through the water. A double whammy on your air consumption! Additionally, the more
If you’ve ever done an aerobics class, there’s a reason the instructor makes you do all those arm movements until you feel that they are going to drop off. It’s exactly the same reasoning that made your diving instructor want to tie you arms to your side during your first dive course. The introduction of upper body movement can increase your metabolism by up to 30%. Great if you want to burn calories in an aerobics class, disastrous for air consumption on a dive - enough said!
Weighting
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Arm movement
Pace / kick style / movement
Divers often show their personalities in the way they dive - there are those who are very busy buzzing about the reef and those who are laid back and going with the flow. Guess who normally lucks out on air consumption? During training, I often get my students to see if they can increase their dive speed by just 50%. Sounds easy however the effort required leaves them and me gasping for breath after about 30 seconds. That particular dive doesn’t tend to last very long!
Obviously all movement cannot be cut out on a dive else you would never go anywhere. It is very important therefore that movements should be as energy efficient as possible. Because of the density of water, slow steady movements are most efficient - there is no use fighting water, it will win every time and rob you of your air to boot. Pace your dive and try to develop an efficient fin kick which allows you to kick and glide, kick and gliiide, kick and gliiiiiiiide - you get the idea.
Photography
‘Well what about it?’ I hear you ask. And my answer may be unpopular with a lot of people. In my opinion most divers take cameras into the water before they have sufficiently honed their diving skills. Destruction of the reefs aside (as out of control diver/photographers crash into it) this is a discussion on air consumption. A camera is another piece of gear to cope with. It causes drag, is a distraction and can task load someone who still has skills such as buoyancy to master. All of these factors will cause an increase in air consumption. With the revolution in digital cameras and housings, underwater photography is within reach of many divers and of course it is great fun. If you are concerned about your air consumption and dive with a camera, do an experiment. Leave the camera on the boat for 1 dive and see if it makes a significant difference. If so (and I believe even the most experienced photographers use more air when taking photos than diving without a camera) you have a simple decision to make - enjoy the fun of photography or enjoy extra dive time. In time you will be able to do both but maybe leave the camera behind sometimes so you can hone your diving skills. Of course that’s going to be the dive when you bump into a school of hammerheads, 20 mantas...........
Physical Fitness
It would seem to make intuitive sense that good cardiovascular fitness would lead to better air consumption. It is however a difficult one to prove as there are so many variables at play. I can’t find any strong studies on this subject and think that it would be fascinating to conduct one. On one hand you have fitter people being able to make better use of air relating to exercise but on another you have increased muscle ratio and higher metabolism burning more calories at rest. Yoga has certainly shown many benefits in diving; it helps stress management, improves mental alertness, teaches you how to relax, improved use of senses, increases flexibility and concentration on breathing techniques. Overall it would seem to make sense that as in any sport, a diver should maintain some degree of physical fitness.
Breathing techniques Note how far down the list I have put breathing techniques and this is the one people feel holds the magic answer. I firmly believe that if you address all the previously discussed headings, relax and get the basics right, you will see an improvement in your air consumption. Again, yoga teaches breathing techniques as part of relaxation and there are some things you can try underwater. It is widely accepted that in diving, breathing should be slow and deliberate (as in yoga) using the full normal range of the lungs. I and others have found that reversing your normal pattern of breathing can really help you use air more efficiently hence conserving it. At rest, your normal breathing pattern will be; breathe in, breath straight out, pause with empty lungs for second or 2 and then repeat. Try reversing this by breathing in slowly, pausing at the top of the breath, breathing out slowly then immediately in slowly again with no pause at the bottom of the breath. I find I adopt this pattern automatically when diving - try it and see if it works for you.
Final Thoughts
I have discussed 12 aspects of our sport where I believe you can make a difference in your air consumption. Some may only yield tiny results, some larger or none at all. I am convinced however that if you are concerned about high air usage and address all of these areas you will see a continued and significant improvement. I hope that divers reading this will have their own views and other suggestions that I have missed - it would be great to hear your comments. This is where we come full circle in the discussion on improving your air consumption underwater. Diving is like many sports, the more you do, the better you get at it and the easier it all becomes. As things become second nature you can relax your body and mind allowing you to take full advantage of the air that you take underwater with you in your tank. Richard was born in England & gravitated to water based activities from an early age starting with fishing & adding windsurfing, sailing & rowing before eventually discovering diving in 1996. Becoming an immediate dive addict, he has been lucky enough to dive many hotspots around the world & spent considerable time & energy planning how to leave his previous career for a new one where he could combine his diving passion & working life. Richard fulfilled this in May 2002 by buying Matava Resort next to the Great Astrolabe Reef on the island of Kadavu in the Fiji Islands. He particularly enjoys the remoteness of this unspoilt location as much of the diving is exploratory. He has also thoroughly enjoyed working with experts attracted to the diversity of the fish & coral life & has recently started collecting ID data on the many Mantas in the area. Richard is a PADI Instructor & through active environmental programmes has achieved the Project AWARE Go Eco status for Matava. http://www.matava.com http://divingfiji.blogspot.com
Truck & Jeep Wheels
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Factors to be Wary of When Choosing Truck Wheels and Jeep Wheels:
Ideally, when it comes to having polished, shiny Jeep and truck wheels, it is very important to keep them that way as much as possible. Wheel corrosion should be taken seriously, not only because of the effects on appearance, but for harmful and potentially unsafe consequences as well.
Sizing:
Essentially, the job of the wheels on your vehicle are to work with the suspension system to keep as much of the tires in contact with the road, particularly during turns and braking. A set of quality truck wheels can mean the difference between a tire catching the road on a rainy day, or spinning out of control on a patch of pebbles on the highway. In order to ensure optimum tire contact, it is important to take truck wheel sizing into major consideration. There are three aspects to wheel sizing that work together with the suspension design: wheel offset, aspect ratio, and tire width. Offset refers to the distance from the very center of the wheel to the mounting surface of the wheel disc at the hub. Wheel offset can be positive, negative or zero. A “0” offset means that the
Ad Index
There are numerous types of corrosion that can damage or otherwise deteriorate Jeep and truck wheels. Rust can eat away at some wheel metals, causing disfiguration and stability breakage. Corroding brakes can also leak onto the wheel itself, leading to further corrosion. Additionally, brake dust that accumulates on wheels can permanently stain or tarnish certain wheel metals when combined with heat buildup during everyday driving. Finally, for the off-road enthusiasts, rocks, dirt, and sand can scratch sparkling chromes, and sometimes even become entrenched in wheels made of more
Bending and breakage are irregular occurrences provided that you exercise caution when driving, but this is not to suggest that they are factors to be taken lightly. Especially for off-road enthusiasts who tackle some of the toughest terrains using low air pressure crawling, wheel bending or breakage can ruin any off-road outing, as driving on one frayed truck wheel or dented Jeep wheel can damage an entire suspension system. Rough driving on bumpy roads or extended driving over potholes or speed bumps can also lead to wheel damage, particularly if air pressure is low, or if the suspension system is not sufficient.
The Roar
Corrosion:
Bending/Breakage:
The Rush
When choosing a set of truck or Jeep wheels, the first recognition that one needs to make is just how vital they are to a vehicle. The type of wheels chosen can have a direct, significant impact upon ride quality, handling, and safety, and oftentimes prove to be just as crucial as many other essential truck and Jeep parts. Moreover, picking the right wheels and taking proper care of them are crucial factors in maintaining optimum performance, and of course, keeping up that slick look. It is important to remember that wheels are providing stability for an entire vehicle. They are directly connected to the axle, brakes, and suspension system. Should a single wheel falter, this could be disastrous for other components in your vehicle.
Granted, significant corrosion that results in considerable wheel damage is a rarity; however, this is not to suggest that regular upkeep and cleaning of your wheels can be outright neglected.
The Game
Contrary to what you might believe, while they may be the most stylized of all truck and Jeep parts, wheels aren’t all about adding glitz and shine. In fact, choosing wheels deserves lengthy consideration, as the right set of wheels can provide additional performance benefits that make buying them not just a stylistic decision, but a smart one as well. Particularly with regard to off-road oriented Jeeps, choosing the optimum set of Jeep wheels can be as important an item to consider as many other Jeep parts.
porous metals, leading to further corrosion.
The Escape
By Billy Han
Contents
Which Ones are Right for You?
mounting surface of the wheel is in the center of the wheel. This measurement is very important in positioning the tire. This also allows for adequate dual spacing.
Aspect ratio is the ratio between the width of the tire and the height of its side wall. A tire specified as “205/60/15,” for example, has a width of 205mm and 60% aspect ratio. The “15” refers to the size of the tire to which the wheel is fitted. Typically, tires with lower aspect ratio than what is required will wear them out easily, and ride quality will deteriorate; although, this could also result to more precision in turning. Some people consider using wider wheels to give a vehicle a racer look, but while is it true that wider wheels and tires can give a vehicle a sportier appearance, they can also ruin your driving satisfaction. This is because the weight of the vehicle would not be evenly spread over the wheel and tire width. Resistance is also increased, thus you wheels and tires could wear out fast, and gas mileage could be significantly reduced. Wider wheels are sometimes required to adequately support larger and wider tires. This provides increased traction in a variety of different terrains such as sand and mud. Vehicles with larger wheels and tires also make less of an impact in the terrain opposed to a vehicle with narrow wheels that cuts into the terrain creating ruts and erosion. Types of Custom Truck Wheels and Jeep Wheels:
Custom truck wheels are available in three compositions and a seemingly endless number of styles. Each composition has its advantages and disadvantages, and it’s a good idea to take each into consideration to help determine which type of wheel is right for you. Steel Truck Wheels and Jeep Wheels:
Steel wheels employ solid construction and heavy-duty materials to reap certain benefits. The stamped construction of steel truck wheels provides a more consistent composition that you can’t get out of cast and machined alloys. The end result is that steel wheels are typically more uniform, and therefore, less prone to warping or wobbling. There are not as many styles of steel wheels to choose from, but they are typically less expensive in comparison to cast wheels. This makes steel wheels an excellent option for off-road enthusiasts who are looking for a set of truck or Jeep wheels that are durable enough to handle off-road terrain, yet inexpensive enough to easily replace in the event of wheel damage. On the downside, steel wheels are heavier than alloys, which may slightly reduce performance and decrease gas mileage. In Brief - Advantages of Steel Wheels: Heavy Duty Durability While slightly heavier than alloy wheels,
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steel wheels are also more durable. Additionally, steel is more malleable than aluminum, preventing chipping or breakage due to impact.
Lightweight
The stamped construction of steel wheels helps them to be more uniform and symmetrical, increasing structural integrity and reducing the likelihood of wobbling
In general, forged alloy wheels tend to be slightly more expensive than their cast aluminum counterparts; however, in terms of durability, weight, performance, design, and overall quality, forged alloy wheels are the best overall value, giving you the most bang for your buck.
Consistent Composition
Longevity
Steel wheels are less porous than aluminum wheels, allowing better resistance against dirt, sand, and brake depletion. Value
Steel wheels are a great, inexpensive option that can take a beating when going off-road. Forged Alloy Truck Wheels and Jeep Wheels:
Aluminum forging utilizes heat and extreme pressure to create dense and strong wheels that are durable, yet still remain lightweight. Although forged aluminum wheels are slightly more expensive than other wheels, this is because no expense is spared with regard to tooling, development, equipment, and manufacturing, and the results show in the quality of these truck wheels. Aluminum alloys make the perfect culmination of lightweight composition, creative spoke design, and protection against the elements for a lasting shine. For maximum durability and reliability in an alloy wheel, forged aluminum wheels have no equal. In Brief - Advantages of Forged Alloy Wheels:
Extreme Heat Forgery Forged alloy wheels are subjected to extreme heat during the construction process, allowing the aluminum compounds to meld, creating dense and durable wheels.
Advanced aluminum alloy compounds are lighter than steel wheels. Excellent Value
Cast Alloy Wheels:
Cast-molded alloy wheels are a reliable option that provides many performance benefits for on and off road drivers. Using aluminum compounds combined with low-pressure casting, the end result is Jeep wheels and truck wheels that are lightweight and durable. The porous metal compound of cast alloy wheels helps to dissipate heat during excessive brake application, and also provides a rust-resistant, easy-to-clean shine. The malleable nature of cast alloy Jeep and truck wheels also allows more creative freedom to craft some of the most vicious designs available. On the downside, cast alloy aluminum tends to be more porous, which may lead to various forms of corrosion, but this can typically be avoided with regular cleaning and care. In Brief - Advantages of Cast Alloy Wheels:
Low-Pressure Casting Cast alloy wheels employ low-pressure casting techniques for increased malleability. This allows alloys to be more flexible, therefore granting manufacturers a certain level of metallurgic creativity. Porous Metal Compound
The aluminum alloy of cast wheels is more porous, which allows better airflow through the wheels to help cool down heated brakes. Rust-Resistant Shine
Cast aluminum alloy wheels are rust-resistant, easy to clean, and produce a consistent, long-lasting shine. Don’t Forget the Lug Nuts:
They may be small, but lug nuts are crucial truck and Jeep parts that many people overlook when upgrading to custom wheels. The impact of lug nuts on wheel safety, security and durability just may surprise you. Here are some reasons why when upgrading to custom wheels, new lug nuts are near-essential truck and Jeep parts that ensure the utmost performance: Style:
Lug nuts are the essential cherry-on-top that style enthusiasts are quick to overlook.
Attention to detail is important when it comes to the appearance of your vehicle, and nothing complements a new set of wheels and tires like custom lug nuts. OEM lug nuts are bland, and can appear glaringly dull in contrast to the polished shine of new wheels. Particularly on aging stock wheels, the lug nuts may be significantly worn or warped, or the grooves may be stripped. Chrome and alloy lug nuts are quite commonplace and many styles are available to go with any wheels and tires. General Maintenance:
Whether you’re the weekend off-road enthusiast who alternates tires frequently, or even the everyday driver who’s prompt with tire rotations, lug nuts can corrode and wear out over time. Loose, frayed lugs can result in instability, or rusted lugs might be irremovable in case of a flat. Lug nuts are in close association with the brakes and wheels, and corroding lug nuts may aversely affect your brake system, or damage chrome wheels. Security:
Unfortunately, theft of your wheels and tires is as easy for thieves as changing a few spares. For this reason, lockable lug nuts can provide just enough added security to prevent you from becoming a victim. Heavy duty locking mechanisms make lug nuts difficult to remove, which can be the difference between a thief disregarding your vehicle and instead going after a far less painstaking vehicle without wheel locks. Spline drive lug nuts are also beneficial for added security, as they require a special tool to remove them (typically included in a set
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of spline drive lug nuts). Lughole Sizing:
Lughole sizing can be a tricky endeavor if you’re not sure how to do it properly. All tire and wheel shops have a special tool that they can place over the rim holes that tell them the pattern. Since this tool costs over $20 and you won’t use it very often, you can check you own hole pattern if you have a simple tape measure.
Most lug holes are 1/2”, 9/16” or 5/8”. Most trucks and SUVs of 1/2 ton size or less will come with the half-inch size. If you’re upgrading to a slightly larger tire size, chances are that the stock lug studs will handle the job nicely. However, if you’re going to some really big tires, you might have to upgrade the stud size to handle the increased loads. Check with the after market wheel and tire manufacturer for their recommendations.
When measuring, be sure that your tape is located dead center on the hole (or on one edge with the five-hole pattern) for accuracy. It’s very hard to tell small differences, but 1/4 inch can make a big difference. For example, the largest rim size you can get with a 5-on-4 and 1/4” wheel pattern is a 14 inch rim. But there are numerous 15 inch rims available in 5-on-4 and 1/2” patterns, so you can see how critical an accurate measurement is. If the rim is still on the vehicle, it’s often hard to get that accurate measurement. One simple trick is to take a sheet of paper and press it down firmly on the studs you need to measure then measure the marks on the
paper.
Another trick is to take some stiff wire - a coat hanger will do fine - and bend the wire into a wide “U” shape, using the ends of them to act like calipers.
The very best method is to actually take the wheels off the vehicle, lay them flat on the ground, and measure the holes carefully, while looking straight down. In Summation:
While the stylistic aspect of purchasing new Jeep or truck wheels is often the primary consideration, it’s important to not overlook factors pertaining to performance. One should be wary of paying proper attention to upkeep and selection before choosing a set of wheels, as the wrong decision can significantly affect your vehicle as well as your safety. Knowing the differences between steel, forged, and cast wheels, as well as correct procedures for sizing, maintenance, and mounting are all crucial factors in getting the most out of your truck and Jeep wheels.
Billy Han currently resides in La Palma, CA, and works as a Copywriter for Transamerican Auto Parts. Transamerican Auto Parts is a leading aftermarket supplier for of truck parts and jeep accessories, including truck and jeep wheels, lift kits, suspension, winches, tires, bumpers, performance parts, and more.
My excitement was steadily increasing with each wrong turn we made. We obtained the Pittman Outdoors River Drifter and had talked about taking it to the river for about a week. Little did we know how hard it would be to find the starting location for where we would be launching. After wondering aimlessly for about 45 minutes, we happened upon where we needed to be.
I have never seen anything like this float tube before in my life. The River Drifter is a two-seater float with a cooler assembled in the middle of it. The cooler has a lid for the top that helps in keeping the river water from getting into it. It has built-in back rests which greatly increases the comfort factor. There are cup holders for each seat which is another plus when floating down the river. The heavy duty handles on each side help keep you steady when you are going down the small rapids. My favorite feature for this product was easily the mesh bottom on each side of the tube. Being deathly afraid of snakes, this was the biggest selling point for me.
As many details as this floating device had, I thought it would take a good while to blow up. We brought our small, portable air pump and it only took about 5 minutes to get everything inflated. We placed our River Drifter in the water and slowly started floating down the river. Our drinks stayed cool the entire time we used it which was a huge plus seeing as how the temperature outside was around 90 degrees. Using this float tube was, hands-down, the most comfortable time I have had floating down the river. The built-in back rests made it easy to lean back and completely relax.
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The mesh bottom also turned the comfort factor way up. I didn’t feel like I was falling out of the bottom of the tube and that helped in the relaxation process.
We floated down the river with ease. There were three or four small rapids we went over and the River Drifter was able to hold up well. We never flipped over once while using it. Just in case something would have happened to puncture the tube, it came with a patch kit and glue.
The River Drifter is undeniably a product that I recommend. I love being in the outdoors and I also love being comfortable (who doesn’t, right?). This product does a fantastic job of making both of these a reality. It would be great to use on the river, at the beach or even just floating around in the pool. You certainly want to obtain this device for your next family vacation.
-Annie McGilvray
NEW PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
Contents The Escape The Game
Pg.
Crew Bed
1
Dee Zee
IFC
www.deezee.com
Freedom Hunters
21
www.freedomhunters.org
Hallmark Cutlery
32
www.hallmarkcutlery.com
Kahr Firearms
BC
www.kahr.com
Kenzie’s Optics
20
www.kenziesoptics.com
Larson Electronics
31
www.larsonelectronics.com
Ram Mount
33
www.ram-mount.com
Safety Seal
IBC
www.safetyseal.com
Truck Air Bedz
36
www.truckairbedz.com
Ad Index
The Roar
The Rush
Company
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Website www.crewbed.com
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