Portfolio by
Hanna Hanhela
Final Collection 2012
I
was
influenced
by
protective
clothing,
where I have been looking at armour, both European and Japanese samurai. I have also taken
inspiration
from
child
labourers
protective wear.
There
is
as
few
style
lines
as
possible,
reflecting the sheets of fabric workers had to wrap themselves in for protection.
The
ritual
behind
and
the
purpose
of
the
ritual; to get dressed for being protected, was something the samurai warriors engaged in, and has had an impact on the way I approached the design process of my collection.
Complexity straps
and
that
constructions
simplicity
wrap meet
and silhouettes.
around with
and the
in
form
armour clean
of like
shapes
Main dress made out of heavy matte jersey panels sewn together and bound with an organza binding. Shoulder detail made out of pieces cut from a perspex sheet, sprayed black and crocheted together with black fishing acrylic fishing line. Main dress and shoulder detail hand stitched together by strong fishing line. Fasteng is at the back of the dress using lobster clasps mainly used in jewellery.
Black heavy matte jersey dress with a shoulder detail made out of crocheted perspex-pieces.
A-lined silk coat with wool blend ongrown raglan sleeves bound with silver silk ‘sharkskin’ binding. The top facing has a ‘sharkskin’ bias trimming, running along the facing edge, creating an interesting detail. The pocket facing is also made from the same ‘sharkskin’ constructing a hint ofsilver in the pocket opening. Canvas, fusing and stay flex tape were used for constructing the garment, making sure there fabric did not stretch and the weights of the fabrics matched. All main body pieces are bagged out. The facing is the whole top bodice, which makes it unnecessary for a lining.
Black silk jacket with wool blend sleeves and contrast slit pockets, with two zips functioning as fastenings at the front
Silver grey jacket with a ‘sharkskin’ grown on raglan sleeve without fastening.Rounded neckline and cut outs exposing the mid-section of the body. The front of the jacket is fully canvased of a medium weight, and the lapels are further fused in a heavy weight interfacing to create more structure. The bottom lapels swings out when the jacket is worn, which causes great strain to the corners. It was necessary to reinforce them with a piece of organza to make sure no damage would be caused over time. The inner edge of the facing creates a perfect circle. A thin trimming of ‘sharkskin’ is running along the facing edge towhich the lining is hand felled.
Silver grey wool silk coat with kimono sleeve with an on-grown raglan. Sleeve panel in silk ‘sharkskin’.
Tailoring
My
inspiration
for
the
tailoring
project came from a comic book I found at a fleemarket in my hometown about the Moomins. ‘The Moomins’ are sympathetic creatures and as a child I used to adore them and their ways of life. They symbolized a type of childlike roundness
and
translated sleeves
and
into
awkwardness, cropped
hems,
which
lengths
rounded
in
shoulders
and silhouettes with few interruptions in pattern and lines. I was also intrigued by how children are portrayed in photos from the 19th century. looking
They
usually
uncomfortable
come and
across dressed
in illfitted clothes they might have grown out of or have not yet grown into.
Constructed tailoring
using
traditional
techniques,
front body
like
the
canvas with a hand
felled edge tape. Cross
stitched
salicia
in
the
hems for turning and attaching facings. The
sleeve
was
basted
into
place to make sure it is eased in evenly. To create a defined roll on the sleevecap,
a
folded
strip
of
bias cut canvas was attached to the seam.
-fully lined, hand felled in -hidden buttonstand, lined -slight funnel collar -front edge and neckline edge stitched by hand
The basting holds the inside canvas to the main body, until it has been secured by occasional sync stitching through seams and the lining is felled in.
The rounded shoulder gets its structire from a self constructed shoulder pad made from two layers of different types of canvas cut out in opposite grains, and one layer of thin felt cloth. The layers are then pad stitched and moulded to a round shape. A stiff collar canvas is used for pad stitching the collar. The padding allows for the collar to get its rounded shape. There is a pair of single jet pockets at the front, of which the sides are stab stitched close by hand.
-small rounded canvassed collar -exposed gunmetal zip fastening -two piece, grown on, cropped set-in sleeve, with three short darts -rounded shoulder -short double vents at back -fully lined
hanna-LoTTa hanheLa I was influenced by samurai armour and child labourer protective wear. The ritual behind, and the purpose of, the ritual of getting dressed for being protected, was something the samurai warriors also engaged in, and has had an impact on the way I approached the design process of my collection. The weaknesses in construction and the strengths in structure of these garments were used as main inspirational sources. I wanted the construction for my garments to be as minimal in style lines as possible, reflecting the sheets the fabric workers used to wrap themselves in for protection. The picture is a detailed shot of my tailored silver kimono coat made from wool silk with a raglan silk ‘sharkskin’ sleeve. The lining of the coat is in the shape of a circle and is hand sewn in the trimming of the sharkskin running along the facing edge.
41
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGNtEitWAt4 You can see the full video of my collection showcased at Graduate Fashion Week, in the link above.
Pattern Cutting by Hanna Hanhela for Designers
Examples of designs cut by Hanna Hanhela for Autumn/Winter 2013
Spring/Summer 2012 Solmu- raffia shorts cut by Hanna Hanhela Clutch bag - waterproof cotton cut & made by Hanna Hanhela
Majakka - mac coat
Tilda - cape coat
Waterproof reversible cotton
Wool melton with silk lining
Ada - trouser
Hymy - leather shorts
Vilma - biker jacket
Silk satin with suede tie
Lamb nappa leather with suede tie
Metallic lamb nappa leather
Examples of designs cut by Hanna Hanhela for Autumn/Winter 2013
Leather coat - nappa leather, cow hide & fur Leather gloves - lamp nappa with synthetic trim
Dress - Lace and cow hide
Wrap around lace jacket - Cotton lace mounted on top of see through plastic with crepe frame and belt
Leather Jacket and Blazer cut by Hanna Hanhela for fleur b. S/S 14.
Luca Michele commissioned patterns from Autumn/Winter 2014 collection through Studio.
me for their The Sampling
Leather Jacket and Blazer cut by Hanna Hanhela for Luca Michele’s A/W 14 collection.
Bespoke dresses for clients A few examples of dresses made for private clients. Pattern cutting through to fitting and final pattern with specifications made by me. Final dress and embroydery made in India.
Curriculum Vitae
Hanna Hanhela hannalhanhela@gmail.com
Employment
+44 (0)7792441261
2013 June -
A competent, committed and creative fashion professional with experience working in dynamic high end design and pattern cutting studios in London. Proficient technical knowledge in both garment construction and CAD. Highly adaptable to new inspirational environments and approach every task with great preciseness and enthusiasm.
The
Sampling Studio - A London based boutique sampling unit offering a pattern cutting, making and design service for made-to-measure and RTW garments. Freelance Creative Pattern Cutter (Project based) Pattern
cutting
for
multiple
different
clients
from
full
collections to one-off pieces, ranging from wedding and evening
Education
dresses to tailored jackets and t-shirts. Giving technical advice to studio manager and machinists
2009–2012 BA (Hons) Fashion Atelier
Sewing toiles and occasional sample garments to high standard
University for the Creative Arts, UK
Amending and checking patterns produced outside studio
Prepping pattern packs to be made in-house and factory in India
2008-2009 Västra Nylands Folkhögskola
2013 April Fleur B.
Start up High End RTW Womenswear brand based in London. Collection designed by Teija Eilola for Fleur B.
Finland, Art Programme
Freelance Pattern Cutter (Project)
2008 Diploma Work in Fashion Design
Pattern cutting and sewing toiles for collection samples
Lasten ja Nuorten Taidekoulu, Finland
Alteration of patterns after fittings Preparation of production packages sent to London factory
2005-2008 Matriculation Examination
2012 October -2013 April
Borgå Gymnasium, Finland, Upper Secondary
Teija
-
High
End
RTW
Womenswear
brand
based
in
London.
Structured
outerwear is combined with feminine garments to go underneath.
Freelance Pattern cutter/Design Assistant Creating patterns from illustrations and specs by the designer Assisting design regarding fabrics and trims Visits to and communication with manufacturers in London Manually grading production patterns Managing a small group of interns and machinists in the studio
Skills Technical
Extra 2012 July - September Teija -
Finalist in design competition Fashion Fringe 2012
Studio Intern (Full-time,
led to frequent freelance position)
Pattern cutting from sketches and specs
Attend fitting sessions and alter fit of multiple garments
Draping and toiling for s/s 13
2013 February
Attend fitting sessions and alter fit of garments
Sarah Baadarani -
Main dresser back stage for the show at LFW
High End RTW Womenswear brand based in London.
Designing and making of clutch bag and rucksack
Romantic lace gain drama through sharp tailoring and leather
Freelance Pattern cutter (Project) Manually pattern cutting garments and gloves Cutting out and hand finishing sample garments
Extensive knowledge in Adobe Indesign Excellent skills in Adobe Illustrator Adequate skills in Photoshop
One of 17 selected to represent UCA Rochester
Good knowledge in Microsoft Word Competent in Powerpoint
2011 May - June
Introduction to Gerber
Graeme Armour -
Margo Selby -
London. Androgynous structured tailored pieces with black as
Computer
2012 July Graduate Fashion Week - Catwalk show
2012 September - December Margo Selby is mainly an interior textile brand, but has also a range of soft jackets and scarves.
Traditional Bespoke Tailoring Creative cutting Flat Pattern Cutting Draping Corset Making Flou (fabric manipulation, bias cut) Working Drawings (by hand and CAD)
High End RTW Womenswear brand based in a dominant colour.
Production Assistant (Temp.)
Studio Intern (Placement)
Sewing and hand-finishing soft jackets and scarves
Pattern cutting, Toiling, Draping for new season
Cutting out pieces for jackets and scarves in-house
Manually hand grading patterns for production
Sufficient in Excel
Language Native: Fluent: Basics:
Finnish, Swedish English French
References available upon request.