Diamond Knowledge
How Do Diamonds Form? The formation of diamonds began billions of years ago in the depths of the earth when carbon began to crystallize under tremendous heat and pressure. The diamond-bearing magma rose to the surface as a result of volcanic eruptions.
How Are Diamonds Mined? Over the centuries, erosion carried diamonds first by rain water down the sides of mountains and then into rivers to form secondary alluvial deposits, sometimes hundreds of miles from their primary source.
What is a Kimberley Certificate? The Kimberly Process started in May of 2000 when diamond-producing states met in Kimberley, South Africa to discuss ways to stop the trade in ‘conflict diamonds’ and ensure that diamond purchases were not financing violence by rebel movements and their allies seeking to undermine legitimate governments. The Kimberley Process sets out the requirements for controlling rough diamond production and trade with certified shipments of rough. International shipments of rough diamond must be accompanied by a KP certificate guaranteeing that they are conflict free. Matching import and export KP certificates must be verified before rough enters the country.
Geo-Politically Free Diamonds: What Are They? Canadian Born from the ground in Canada, in the northwest territories. Mined and cut by union workers. Certified by the government of Canada and the environmental department. Clean water discharge must be 100% monitored. Every diamond comes laser inscribed with a Canadian hallmark.
De Beers (DTC – Diamond Trading Company): The Mining Experts
Began in 1888
Began in 1948
For decades De Beers controlled 90% of diamonds and mining throughout the world. Currently, they have less than 50% of the diamond market. Today De Beers (DTC) has become partners with countries of origin. They’ve partnered with the following countries: Botswana, Namibia, Canada, & South Africa. 30% of all revenue comes back to the country to help build schools, roads, hospitals, and other infrastructures. De Beers put 550 million dollars into Botswana before they even got to mine one diamond. De Beers’ activeness in creating new jobs, better economies, and nature conservation is unlike what any other diamond company has ever done before.
What Are the Four C’s? There Are Three C’s and One Q:
1. Cut
2. Color
3. Clarity
4. Quantity/Carat
The new world grading system was established by the GIA in 1953. The first grading report was issued in 1954. As technology improved their ability to determine the differences between grades became even better.
What is a Carat? Getting a true understanding of weight A carat is a measurement of weight only used in the jewelry industry. 1 point = ½ a grain of sand in volume 100 points = 1.00 carat 5.00 cttw = 1.0 gram
Common diamond weights
0.50 Carat 0.75 Carat 1.00 Carat 1.25 Carat 1.50 Carat
Why don't we choose these weights?
3/8 Carat 5/8 Carat 7/8 Carat 1 1/8 Carat 1 3/8 Carat
Colorless to Near Colorless Scale
Colorless to Near Colorless Scale D
Less than 1% of all diamonds in the world
E
Less than 2.5% of all diamonds in the world
F
Top 5%
G
Top 10%
H
Top 15%
I
Top 20%
J
Average sold in stores today
K
Average sold in stores today
L
Average sold in stores today
M...Z Colorless to near colorless yellow, brown, and gray are graded on this scale. 95% of all diamonds have saturation/body color.
Clarity Grading Scale Flawless Internally Flawless
No Flaws at 10X – Collector’s Stone Only external blemishes visible at 10X
VVS1
Inclusions difficult to see at 10X
VVS2
Inclusions difficult to see at 10X
VS1
Minor Inclusions – ranging from difficult to easy to see under 10X magnification
VS2
Minor Inclusions – ranging from difficult to easy to see under 10X magnification
SI1
Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader under 10x magnification
SI2
Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader under 10x magnification
SI3
Not recognized by GIA, AGS, GCAL, etc – Added by EGL (added in the 90’s)
I1
Inclusions are obvious under 10X and may affect transparency and brilliance
I2
Inclusions are obvious under 10X magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance
I3
Inclusions are obvious without magnification and will affect transparency and brilliance
What Determines Grade? • • • •
The size of the inclusions The location of inclusions The quantity of the inclusions The type of inclusions - (11 white & 1 type of black)
Diamond Clarity
Diamond Inclusion Images
Cloud
Crystal
Feather
Indented Natural
Grain Center
Internal Graining
Knot
Needle
Pinpoint
Twinning Wisp
Bruise
Cavity
Rough Diamonds Every diamond cutter knows how to cut diamonds, but how do they cut them? Save weight. Make money.
Octahedron
Misaligned Octahedron
Cube
Flat
Macle
Cleavage
Two Round Diamonds
Two Princess Two Cushions
Asscher Cut
Emerald Cut
Heart Trillion
Pear Shape
Standard Diamond Cuts & Shapes
100%
70-80%
70-80%
80%
40%
80%
40%
40%
50%
50%
90%
75%
Specialty Branded Diamond Cuts
FireMark
FireCushion
Ideal2
Returns 98% of light that enters back to the eye
The most brilliant cushion in the world. Returns 95% of light
65 facets Has a double crown
68 facets & a pavilion facet pattern like round brilliant
Canadian born, geopolitically free diamonds from the northwest territories.
Laser inscribed with the FireMark brand & GIA logo & report number
It’s always square; ratio is 1.1 to 1
At least 95% light return.
Laser inscribed with the FireCushion logo & GIA logo & report number
Only clipped cornered square stone that is Hearts & Arrows.
Excellent polish & excellent symmetry
Excellent polish & excellent symmetry
Each Ideal2 is perfectly square and has 68 facets.
Mined & cut by union workers.
Terminology & Proportions TERMINOLOGY DIAMOND
Table 54%
TABLE CROWN Crown o Angle 34
Depth 61%
GIRDLE THICKNESS 3.0-3.5%
PAVILION
CULET
Pavilion o Angle 40.5
Brightness SHALLOW CUT
DEEP CUT
IDEAL CUT
With a shallow crown and pavilion, light striking the bezel leaks out the pavilion (red line), or leaves the crown in a direction where it will not be seen. Light striking the table leaks out the pavilion.
If the stone is too deep, light reflects from the pavilion facet, but leaks out when it strikes the other side of the pavilion.
With an optically efficient crown and pavilion, light reflects from one side of the pavilion to the other and back to the crown.
What is the perimeter from the GIA for ideal proportions?
How is it possible that a diamond can have an excellent grade for cutting with a table of 60% and that you can also have that grade for a 54% table?
Fluorescence: What is it? Fluorescence is the emission of visible light by a material when it is stimulated by long wave ultraviolet rays. Fluorescence can vary in both intensity and color. No fluorescence costs more. Why?
Majority of diamonds that have a grade of strong or more have a higher probability of giving the stone a milky appearance in outdoor sunlight.
Possible Colors
25%-30% of diamonds exhibit some degree of fluorescence.
Blue Yellow White Orange Green Red
10% of those diamonds show strengths that can impact appearance. A diamond with fluorescence has the same structural integrity as a diamond with no fluorescence.
(Most Common to Least Common):
Grades: None Faint Medium Strong Very Strong
(Fluorescence color is listed only when intensity is Medium or stronger.)
Gemological Laboratories & Their Grading Differences Reputable Gemological Laboratories
Non-Reputable Gemological Laboratories (Listed from Most to Least Reputable)
GIA – Gemological Institute of America AGS – American Gem Society GCAL - Gem Certification and Assurance Lab IGI – International Gemological Institute EGL USA EGL ISR EGL Others
How does this affect the quality and value of your diamond? Knowing about the gemological laboratories that have graded the diamond is a key indicator of the true value of your diamond. Example: Sending the same diamond to be graded by a nonreputable lab will absolutely be different grades when graded also by a reputable laboratory.
Gemprint
Gemprint is an essential tool because not all diamonds have laser inscriptions. In the market, roughly 8% of all diamonds available have inscriptions. Gemprint offers a more secure way to always identify your diamond.
What is it? Gemprint captures the optical finger print of a diamond while leaving no marks on the diamond in the process. The diamond can be verified loose or in the mounting. Gemprint gives peace of mind knowing you can positively identify your diamond anywhere in the world where Gemprint is available.
Insurance Discounts
Investment Protection
Over 84 insurance companies give up to 10% off your annual insurance premium for having your diamond Gemprinted.
Court accepted means of irrefutable evidence proving ownership and protecting your financial and emotional investment.
How Does This All Come Together? Color
Find Your Balance: Quality
Dollars
Cut
Clarity
Quantity/Carat
• • • • •
Cut Color Clarity Carat Weight/Quantity Dollar Amount
Synthetic Lab Grown Diamonds Synthetic does not mean plastic, glass or any imitation. Synthetic diamonds are real gem quality diamonds grown in a laboratory under two different kinds of processes.
Chemical Vapor Deposition, CVD (early 2000s)
High Pressure High Temperature, HPHT (since mid 1950s)
CVD is a process that involves introducing a gas into a vacuum chamber, then activating and breaking down the gas molecules with microwaves. Doing this causes the carbon atoms to accumulate on a substrate (small platform). The molecules accumulate on an existing crystal.
HPHT mimics the natural process of diamond formation. This process is very expensive due to the energy and equipment required. It produces diamonds with mainly yellowish or brownish yellow colors.
Where is the value in a synthetic diamond? There is little to no aftermarket value. The value of synthetic diamonds will continue to drop with more synthetics being created. Given that there is no rarity to these diamonds, there is no real intrinsic value.
Treated Diamonds in the Market Common Treatments: Drilling, Filling (Yehuda), Color Enhancement, & Coating
Laser Drilling
Fracture Filling
Irradiation & Annealing
Coatings
Having a treated diamond causes limitations to overall workmanship for the diamond and also the ring. Certain treatments make standard repairs, sizing, and heat needed work impossible without removing the center diamond. As a consumer it is your responsibility to disclose the treatments to the goldsmith who will be working on your ring in the future.
Gold & Platinum Differences Yellow Gold
Rose Gold
White Gold
Platinum
No rhodium
Rose rhodium plate
Rhodium plate
Rhodium
Not hypoallergenic
Not hypoallergenic
Not hypoallergenic
Hypoallergenic
Polish to refurb
Rhodium & polish to refurb
Polish to refurb
Polish to refurb
Soft/Scratches
Soft/Scratches
Durable/Can Scratch
Soft/Scratches
No sizing line
No sizing line
No sizing line
Sizing line
Offered in nickel free option
Denser than gold Rarer than gold More expensive
Alloyed with nickel, silver, zinc, manganese
Alloyed with ruthium or iridium. We use 10% iridium & 90% platinum
Alloyed with silver and copper
Alloyed with copper
What is Rhodium? Rhodium is an electroplating process on jewelry items. Rhodium enhances the brightness or appearance of the item and also, helps make the surface scratch resistance and more resistance to tarnishing. Rhodium is what gives white gold a strong white appearance & rose gold and intense pink hue. Rhodium in its final stage on jewelry helps make the ring’s surface more hypoallergenic. Rhodium does not last forever. It is recommended to have it touched up every couple of years depending on how much you wear off.