Fashion Culture Essay - Flashdance by Hanna Olsson

Hanna LinnÃ©a Olsson - BA Fashion marketing & communication - 6FAMK003C Visual Arts / CWK1 / Level 6, 2019-2020 - Teacher: Maya McCarthy - Word count: 12291

ASHION ULTURE ESSAY

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TABLE OF CONTENT

1. ESSAY ‘A powerful Woman or just a man’s wet dream?’

s. 6-9

2. RESEARCH BOOK

s. 10-113

Concept research

s. 12-103

Concept Development

s. 104-113

3. LIST OF REFERENCES

s. 114-119

4. ANNEX

s. 120-129

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Flashdance became a true pioneer of its time, whereas its content was a controversial response of the values and social issues appearing in the late 70s and beginning of the 80s. This paper presents an in-depth research of the film in context. In order to further investigate the topic, the first category of this work will present an essay concentrated on the area of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A powerful woman or just a manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wet dream?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The aim here is to work as inspiration for the fashion editorial, later developed in CW2. The second category will examine a research book, divided into concept research and concept development. The overall purpose of this study is to investigate and outline what makes Flashdance unique, and to understand for what reason it is a cult classic.

SSAY

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Flashdance, 1983

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A powerful woman or just a man’s wet dream? Flashdance, the box-office success and pioneer of its time, became a complete emblematic of the eighties. Fighting sexual stereotypes and questioning the patriarchy was rising, which resulted in a time of change for women all over the globe. The social structure was rapidly changing, intending to construct a world of sexual equality. As women became more socially accepted as successful, the era’s power suit mirrored the changes in attitude and became a rousing success. Notably, dressing for success meant borrowing from the guys. Women were still dependent on men, once again a symbol of the patriarchy they were fighting to beat. Following paper aims to understand if Flashdance, starring Alexandra Owens, reflects a story of female empowerment or just her, pleasing a man’s sexual desire.

First, Flashdance is the complete symbol of the male gaze, which means the sexual way of empowering men and objectifying women (Loreck, 2016). Throughout significant scenes in the film, women are visually positioned to be looked at by men as a way to frame heterosexual desire. To take one geographical dance number as an example, Alex begins by entering the scene dressed in an empowering man’s suit that she later takes off to loads of applause from her male-dominated viewers. The way in how she is portrayed as a strong, liberated woman in the beginning shifts to the objectification of a male gaze when she has to get undressed to receive success. Another example is the way all female characters in Flashdance have total tolerance for sexualisation. During Alex’s work shift, after her lunch break at the steel mill, she tells her manly coworkers that they will see each other later, in which they replies laughing, “Do not get dirty”. Alex laughs back like if it was the most normal thing she ever heard and the film moves on. In what way is this sequences something else than a reflection of a woman as an object for heterosexual desire.

Also, Alex is nothing else than her physical appearance. Flashdance was controversial, not only in the way it portrayed the working-class but also for the persona Alex is. The directors of the film attempt to show Alex’s feelings through sadness or anger. Although, it falls flat due to the lack of emotional connection. It is like she is playing a role in the role she is already starring. Significantly, Flashdance is both written and directed by men. With this in mind, now think of how a man would ever be the best suitable to create a strong female character. With that also comes that men will never completely understand the emotions of a woman and where they come from and vice versa.

Fact is, there are repeating opportunities for Alex to

talk with her friends about how she is feeling, which is what women often do. Instead, they focus on talking about guys, or they do not talk at all. Few discussions refer to the pursuit of a dream, ultimately so empty.

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dream? Alex’s feelings stay as a physical act rather than a moment in which the viewer feel a sort of connection. The most compelling argument is that her feelings and thoughts appear to be less important than her physical presence as a desire for men.

However, Alex is appearing to be that strong eighties woman too. She takes herself to work every day in order to finance the dreams of becoming a professional ballerina dancer. Alex seems to take no shit from men, indeed nor accepting her friends to do it either. When her friend Jeanie falls out of track after an unsuccessful show at a skating competition, Alex is there to give her an awakening. Dressed as a boy, Alex do fight some sexual stereotypes. Nevertheless, the fact that she always has to wear something red as a way of showcasing her femininity or that she surprisingly wears heels and tight lycra whenever being in contact with men does not make her the ultimate 80s feminist. Despite this, Alex knows where she wants to be, and nothing will stop her from getting there. Weather permitting, Alex amplifies the slogan of the film “Take your passion and make it happen!”. Although, it might not be the precise way it naturally happens. Without a doubt, Alex became a true icon for the teenage girls of its time and her way of facing obstacles was controversial and in line to what perceives as feminism.

In conclusion, It is hard to say whether Flashdance is a story about a powerful woman or just a man’s wet dream. It seems reasonable to believe that Alex character was considered to be a strong woman for its time. Although, the close-ups on wet thighs, sexualised scenarios, whereas the female body is there to frame a heterosexual desire proves that the male gaze is a consistent latent theme throughout the film as a whole. Nonetheless, this essay shows that further exploration of the topic in context has to be made, to understand what is behind the twisted view of Flashdance entirely.

Word Count: 847

Reference: Loreck, J. (2016). Explainer: what does the ‘male gaze’ mean, and what about a female gaze?. The Conversation. Available from:

https://theconversation.com/explainer-what-does-the-male-gaze-mean-and-what-about-a-female-gaze-52486 (Accessed 23 Nov 2019).

ESEARCH OOK

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Flashdance, 1983

CONCEPT RESEARCH

1. DECADE ANALYSIS History of 1975-80 History of 1980-85

s. 14-71

s. 16-55 s. 56-71

2. THE FILM

s. 72-79

3. FILM COMMUNICATION

s. 80-93

4. FASHION COMMUNICATION s. 94-103

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This part of the research book will construct an in-depth understanding of Flashdance as an innovative, conservative and breathtaking piece of work. Following section will take a closer look into the film innovation of Flashdance, as well as analysing its general and fashion communication.

DECADE ANALYSIS

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Flashdance was a cultural document of its time, with values originate from the past. The decade analysis

focuses

exploring

vital

elements

that are significant for the overall understanding of innovation in Flashdance. This chapter will be divided into two main parts, starting with the research of the period between 19751980 and finishing with the period of 1980-1985.

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POLITICAL 1975-80

THE WATERGATE SCANDAL The Watergate scandal is known for being one of the most potent happenings of the 70s in terms of

New York Times, no date

scepticism towards the American government. It all began in early 1972 when the police arrested several burglars, breaking into the Democratic National Committee. Investigation clarified that the robbery was everything but ordinary and revealed multiple cases of power abuse by former president Richard Nixonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s administration and reelection campaign (History.com, 2009). As a result of the scandal, in 1974, Nixon resigned from office. Nevertheless, the Watergate scandal affected American politics and society long after Nixonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s resignation (NCC,2017). The American population was disappointed, which formed an atmosphere

Click Americana, no date

of distrust towards its government. America had already been through long years of populistic disappointment during the Vietnam War. Therefore, Watergate was just another reason for concern towards an already soured national climate (History.com, 2009).

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...interesting fact The as

Vietnam the

duced

first in

War

came

‘television

Vietnam

was

known

war’.

Film

sent

proTokyo

for agile development so that American television could show it to the population.

THE END OF A LONG WAR The Vietnam War was an extremely long conflict, lasting

ca’s entire history (Farelly, 2017). This war caused

from 1955 to 1975. This war became one of the decades

a broad division between the American population,

most significant traumas due to its worldwide partici-

whereas there were Americans who supported the

pation. The battle was initially a conflict between North

war and those who opposed it completely (History,

and South Vietnam, first started as an anti-colo-

2019). When the New York Times leaked informa-

nial war against France. It evolved into a war be-

tion that the American government had lied about

tween

North

their involvement in the war, the anti-war movement

Vietnam was a communist state led by the Soviet

had its groundbreaking moment and spread globally.

communism

and

free

democracy.

Union with allies, whereas South Vietnam had support from their principal partner U.S (History, 2009).

In 1973, America and North Vietnam signed a peace

The Vietnam War is often discussed as the American

agreement, also known as the Paris Peace Accords.

war or The Resistance War against America (Vietnam-

The war officially ended in 1975, which resulted in

Embassy, 2019). The United States involvement in

a victory for the North Vietnamese (Kelly, 2019).

Vietnam first started in trying to defeat the communists by helping with financial aid and military advisor and escalated under President Lyndon Johnson’s power. Over time, American involvement increased as a fact of the war continued (Kelly, 2019). The war came to be the most prolonged conflict of Ameri

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WAR ON DRUGS In the mid to late 70s, drugs come to be a natural part of the club experience. Ingesting drugs became

thriving

subculture,

with

catastroph-

ic costs. Drug abuse came to be a public enemy. Moreover, it had its consequences and resulted in the ‘War on Drugs’. The act refers to the movement of global governmental initiatives aiming to stop illegal drug use. As part of the progress, the American market could see an increased amount of federal drug-control agencies with strict measures. Until 1977, eleven states of America decriminalized possession of marijuana. As quaaludes grew in popularity, countries such as Britain was keeping the use under tight regulations (Drugpolicy, no date). The ‘War on drugs’ movement is still evolving to this day but saw its breakthrough as a result of the increasing drug scene in the 70s.

Three drug adverts from the 70s Jackson-Edwards, 2015

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WHAT HAPPENED IN EUROPE? Franco in 1964

In the United Kingdom, year 1975, Margaret Thatcher becomes the first woman leader for the conservative party.

Wikipedia, 2019

Later this decade, as the par-

ty regain the majority of votes, Thatcher come to be the first female Prime Minister of the UK. In Spain a new constitution is established after the deatch of the dictator Francisco Franco in 1975. The country held its first democratic elections since Francoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death in 1977. Highly important due to the fact that the latest elections were held before the Civil War began in 1936. The new constitution was ratified by the population in 1978, which transitioned Spain into a functioning democracy. Thatcher in 1975

Holt, 2016

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SOCIAL 1975-80

...interesting fact One

the

most

significant

elements

of the 70s is liberation. As a result of the

political

divisions

America

during

1960, people lost hope and turned against the common interest to support their subgroups to where the individual belonged. Identity politics were rising as a movement intended to further the benefits of a particular group, based

ethnicity,

sex,

gender,

religion,

culture and race (KhanAcademy, no date). America tion,

and

appeared

inspired the were

the

world

different all

take

movements

concerned

about

ac-

which cre-

ating a fair and modern society to live.

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the womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rights movement. The campaign became

Marchers parade in Florida for the ERA Times, 1975

FEMINISM MAKES WAVES It was not until the 1970â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that the second-wave

huge worldwide, whereas ordinary women, many of

feminism strides took a role within society. This de-

whom had never been politically active before, hosted

cade, among its fast-changing climate, come to have

house meetings, door-to-door canvassing to fight for

huge importance when discussing the female rightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

their rights (Eisenberg, B a.all., 1998). Moreover, Amer-

movement in general. It all started in America, where

ica kept on being on the cutting edge of liberating

female organizations protested for changes within the

woman in many situations. In the mid-70s, housing

legalization of the female sex in different aspects.

and credit discrimination against women became pro-

The action in which the aim was to increase equal-

hibited, employment discrimination against pregnant

ity for women spread across the western world and

women was banned, and the supreme court could no

campaigns for female justice got support worldwide.

longer exclude women from juries (Milligan, 2017). In

A great example is the revival of the Equal Rights

1976, the first law protecting women from being raped

Amendment, which kept languished in congress for

was enacted in Nebraska, meaning that no more hus-

a long time. A modification sent to the states of

band can rape his wife. Although these changes seem

America for ratification gave women worldwide an

very obvious today, to be a woman during the 70s

opportunity to push the decision and be involved in

was all about fighting for your equal rights to men.

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Women demonstrating for equality Fetters, 2019

WOMEN AND WORK Thanks to the women’s movement, the 1970s became a transformative and vital time regarding women in work. As feminism was growing worldwide, it helped in altering the role of women in society. A significant number of women became the ‘first’ of its gender in various positions. Especially within politics, whereas Thatcher is an excellent example of the subject in context (see page 17). Women began to feel successful in areas earlier dominated by men, and the right to work was one of them. In the late 1970s, female participation in the labour force progressively increased. Although less than 44 percent of women with the right requirements to work was working. Meaning that more than half of the population in developed countries were still home. Women in the workforce was a struggle due to social behaviours and gender differences in access to higher education (Abs.gov, 2017).

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Gay Freedom Day, San Fransisco Maggiora, 1977

GAY RIGHTS The gay rights movement took start earlier than the 1970s, in the form of organizational work. Yet, being an LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender) person was anything but comfortable during the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s. In America, the American psychiatric association had categorized homosexuality as a mental illness or a sexual orientation disturbance. Howsoever, a woman named Kathy Kozachenko was the first lesbian openly voted into office in Ann Arbor. Additionally, Californiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first openly gay man, Harvey Milk, became the first elected to public office (KhanAcademy, no date). Particularly in America and Europe, groups fought for their human rights and the international lesbian and gay association was founded first in 1978. It was not until 1980 when gay activists won support from the democratic party that sexual orientation became part of the nondiscrimination clause (Levy, no date).

CULTURAL 1975-80

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...interesting fact Any given decade in history has its different references of sounds and genres. Although the music scene of the 1970s has a remarkable place whenever discussing the subject. It was a Golden Era in musicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s timeline, vinyl

records

were

affordable

everyone,

and people went out dancing all night long.

David Bowie with friends at Studio 54 Studio 54, 1976

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A DIVERSED MUSIC SCENE The music scene of the 70s had a particular impact by a wave of events and cultural shifts in society. The 60s Civil Rights Movement and the protests against the Vietnam War was all affecting music of the 70s. As a result, new ideologies were blooming, and to questioning and redefining traditional culture became a natural part of everyday life.

By mid 70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the hippie movement had waned (Augustyn, no date). Yet, their ideologies aimed to find equality between all people and deconstruct social rules, where manifested into the 70s music scene.

The modern diversity in music was a reflection of a change in a social context. Aside from Disco and Rock and Roll, subgenres dominated the music scene. What the 70s brought to music was a shift in diversity, the music industry became a place for all genres, of different races in a wide variety of topics. Some might even say that the 70s was a determining predecessor of all music created after its decade (Yip, 2018)

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DISCO The genre Disco became one of the most influential musical and cultural movements of the decade. Some might say it even saved dancing from dying out (Stokes, no date). As social dancing was fading out in the late 60s, Disco repopularised dancing as a social activity internationally. Dancing, as a social activity, involved a duo of a man and a woman, dancing together. However, what Disco did to history was to break this rule, and for the first time, people could go onto the dance floor individually. Might sound like nothing essential. Fact is, in America until 1971 for two men dancing with one another, was utterly illegal. Therefore, Disco was yet another form of the 70s social liberation movement.

Moreover, Disco inspired to the rise of our contemporary clubbing DJs. Being a DJ became a new form of musician and the techniques used still exists to this

day (Stokes,

no Date). Dis-

co was the thing and drugs came aligned, as a way to enhance the experience on the dancefloor.

As a result of changing the dynamic on the dancefloor,

...interesting fact

different groups in society found a safe zone in Disco. The genre was for all, despite ethnicity or gender. It

One of the most significant current discussions

enabled gay, female, people of colour and Latin artists

of the topic in context is whether the backlash

to define their identities in very modern ways. Disco

of Disco in the late 70s was an anti-female/

changed everything and influenced all parts of society.

gay/people of colour movement (Haider, 2018).

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Tumblr, no date

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DISCO DIVAS As a result of Disco influencing society among social dancing rules, the primary voice of 70s Disco was female. The genre proclaimed womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s independence from sexual conventions (Inness, 2003). The performance scene had not previously been prior for female artists, not at least of colour. Top disco divas from the 70s were Anita Ward, Diana Ross, Donna Summer as well as the female duo in ABBA.

All figures: Thpix, no date

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STUDIO 54 The glamourous club Studio 54, placed in New York City, was opening its doors for the first time in 1977. Sadly, the club closed down at the end of the decade, only 33 months old, due to tax evasion caused by the owner Rubell and co. However, the nightclub had and still has a legendary reputation. Some of the world’s most famous people were meeting at the dancefloor on 54th Street in NYC, because of the club’s exclusivity. The club amplified everything that a dreamy party scene in the late 70s stood for, wild nights and disco beats. Studio 54 is not essential to the history because of its physical appearance, but as an effect

“The key to a good with guests more

of what 70s was all about - Glam, Glam and Glam. Pinterest, 2019

Dolly Parton and a horse inside of the club, 1978

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party is filling a room e interesting than youâ&#x20AC;? Grace Jones, 1979 All figures: Valenti, 2018

Rod Stewart and Alana Hamilton, 1978

All figures: Valenti, 2018

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SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER Before the release of Saturday Night Fever in 1977, musicals were on a low point (KrĂ¤mer, 2014). This film was not only inspiring for the comeback of musicalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and came to be a historical symbol for Disco. Thanks to the director John Badham and the choreographer Bob Fosse, Saturday Night Fever is 120 minutes of complete emblematic of the 70s music scene (Mudede, 2014). The film is starring John Travolta as Tony, a handsome young guy who hates his job. It presents a conflict between his work that he expected to appreciate and his passion for dancing. In the nightclub, he can be his fulfilling self. The film was a complete success. Travolta received his first Oscar nomination ever and its soundtrack, mainly created by Bee Gees, remains to be one of the best selling soundtracks of all times (Thompson, 2018).

Fathom events, 2017

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GREASE John Travolta was a blooming actor. One year after Saturday night fever, in 1978, he was starring Danny together with Olivia Newton-John in musical Grease. The film was grounded in 50â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rock, and main parts are inspiration from a musical with the same name, in 1971. In this version, Danny falls in love with the beautiful girl Sandy over summer, and as they unexpectedly realise that they are in the same high school, a love drama appears. the late 70s symbol for love Grease

the

second

highest-grossing

musical

of all time, and its costumes changed not only the era but also influenced the fashion world.

Movie Poster Shop, no date

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Paramount Pictures, 1978

The stars in Grease - Olivia Newton John and John Travolta

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Olivia and John at the Premiere of ‘Grease’, 1978 Paramount Pictures, 1978

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the iconic Sandy

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FASHION 1975-80

If music was a parallel movement in a social context, fashion became the visual representation of it. Fashion had ever been so stretched and individual as it became in the 70s, which is known for being the most stylish decade in history. Skirts were shorter, boots taller, and some of the history’s most recognized style icons was born (Algoo and Saunders, 2019). Vogue declared “There are no rules of the fashion game now. You’re playing it, and you make up the game as you go”.

The 70s gave way to a softer style. Jersey and body-skimming knits were appearing and what we today know as sportswear was vogue. As the mid70s took the start, the mini skirt was out of fashion and replaced with a longer, straight or pleated A-line. Over time, the knee-length skirts became longer and the mid-length dress, earlier reserved for the hippies and ‘grannys’, became mainstream. Overall, as an obvious answer to a changing decade. The style was more effortless and casual.

By the late 70s, a darker wash and skin-tight jeans

were

fashion.

Designer

jeans

became

trendy and most popular brand names were Calvin Klein, Pierre Cardin and Gloria Vanderbilt. Wearing pants was never wrong; the piece was for day and night. Wearing jeans with a logo on its back pocket was the rage, and designer jeans caused the beginning of high price tags (Session, 2019).

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THE PROFESSIONAL WOMAN As a result of women entering the workforce increased, their fashion also changed. In the professional workspace women started dressing in clothing inspired by men. The female pantsuit had a boom along the side of man-tailored blazers, matching suit vests, wide trousers and flat shoes. The style of the working woman of the late 70s was mostly inspired by menswear yet very trendy. Wearing a skirt or a dress was an alternative to pants, although if being perceived as pro-

Click Americana, no date

fessional, it had to be below the knee (Session, 2018).

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“LE SMOKING” Yves Saint Laurent became the first fashion house to present the suit as an alternative of evening wear for women in the 60s, under the sophisticated name ‘Le smoking’ (Bannerman, 2018). Nevertheless, it was not until the mid 70 were when the photographer Helmut Newton captured the look that it becomes iconic. The editorial was shooted for French Vogue in 1975, featuring an androgynous woman with slicked-back hair, next to a model, totally naked, dressed only in a pair of black heels. What Newton did was to mark the shift of gender differentiation in fashion, by being the first one to capturing the persona of power dressing. Newtons controversial statement of femininity for YSL, featured in French Vogue, is to this day one of the most well-known series of photographs ever created (Wringley, 2012).

Newton, Le Smoking, 1975

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Vigue ES, no date

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THE STORY OF OHH As society was changing, magazines of the decade come to be leaders of the motion. The Story of Ohh, created in 1975 by Helmut Newton, was a series of photos in American Vogue. The work was featuring the famous Lisa Taylor together with a man and another woman. The series is most famous for its photograph, later called “Woman Examining Man, St. Tropez, 1975”, where Taylor is placed in a sofa, lustfully looking at the shirtless man in front of her with her legs wide open. The editorial was controversial for its time and facts states that many readers cancelled their Vogue subscription after seeing the suggestive ménege covering the pages of the magazine (Mower, 2003). Although, as the women’s rights movement was highly accelerating, Vogue states that it, therefore, became their norm to be a role model. In 1970, the magazine described its reader as a ‘modern liberated woman’ A young Helmot Newton

and photographers such as Newton was showcasing it

Getty Images, no date

rial

with was

confidence an

(Vogue,

enlightening

2019). and

This

enriching

editopor-

tion of the changes that come to pass its era.

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Vogue US - May Issue, 1975

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Taylor as she is lustfully looking at the shirtless man infront of her Vogue US - May Issue, 1975

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All figures: Vogue US - May Issue, 1975

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70S FASHION MUSE Lisa Taylor, the 70s supermodel, come to be an Albert Watson, Vogue - October, 1977

icon in fashion. Besides starring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the story of ohhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; shoo, Taylor was present in a significant number of other shoots for the magazine and being the cover girl four times. She is known for being fearless and going for poses others would not. As seen in the previous page, where she pulls off a dog biting her wrist like nothing was more reasonable. Taylor became a symbol of American luxury (Okwodu, 2017).

Arthur Elgot, Vogue - March, 1977

Arthur Elgot, Vogue - March, 1974

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KEY INNOVATION 1975-80

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...interesting fact The 70s became a milestone for many technical

innovations

and

the

time

which

the mainframe became mainstream. Call it computer history, media revolution or the wave

television

innovation.

Technolo-

gy advancements were changing the world. The invention grew products, and the market was booming with electronics. Most of the technology used in today’s society has its roots in the era of 70s (Tech, 2016).

THE FIRST SATELLITE CABLE TV NETWORK As the Vietnam War became the first ‘media war’, being able to report to the living room of the American population, the country was moving closer to a fully televised future. HBO (home box office) come to be the first pay television channel ever. In 1975, the company became the first to use satellites for regular transmission of programs. Its enormous success changed the era, and cable-TV increased in popularity. As a result, Hollywood increased its profit by advertising its upcoming film releases on TV. The movie Jaws is known for having the major national TV spot campaign in history and took the record in places booked for its release (Dirks, no date).

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Bill Gates in 1975 Pinterest, no date

A CREATIVE HIGH POINT

MICROSOFT AND APPLE

Because of new ideologies, innovation and diversity,

These

the 70s film industry alongside with everything else

was found in late 70s (microsoft 1975 and apple

that happened throughout this decade, had a tumul-

1976) and led way for the future of computers.

tuous time. The changes were neither good nor bad,

The company Microsoft, founded by Bill Gates and

although they play a significant part in how we see

Paul Allen, was specialized in software. Apple on the

film today. Restrictions on language, sexuality and vi-

other hand, founded by Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak

olence were all part of the US film industry in the 70s.

created the first PC, as we now know call the MacBook.

In the 1970s, production companies were focusing on box-office receipts, and some of the most successful ones were Jaws in 1975 and Star Wars in 1977.

two

enourmosly

successull

companiesm

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POLITICAL

...interesting fact!

1980-85

For America, the beginning of 1980 was a time of uncertainty and lack of confidence for both citizens and government. The country had been through radical changes since the 1970s empowering movements, the Watergate scandal and not at least their loss in the Vietnam War.

RISE OF THE NEW RIGHT The New Right was a populist conservative movement,

caused

the

characteristics

Ronald

Reagonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s politics. It took off as a response to the inflation, rising crimes and foreign policy turmoil caused by the presidency of Jimmy Carter. A diverse group of Americans were promoting were starting to embrace a new sort of conservatism in a social and economic sense. Reagon, who won the 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s presidential election with a 51 percent of the vote, is mostly known for his pro-materialism and consumerism politics. His promises were lower taxes and smaller governments, which he did well to keep. His politics was allowing Americans with money to keep more of it to encourage them for consumerism and investment in the business. This movement changed everything and reflected all aspects of American society.

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Reagan campaigning in L.A before the Republican National Convetion that brought people to tears Rose, 1976

SOCIAL 1980-85

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...interesting fact In 1983, the astronaut Sally Ride became the first American woman in space. Throughout her life, Ride was working for ensuring that more women could do the same. She became a true symbol for the achivements of the women’s rights movement (Anderson, A).

THE YUPPIES As a result of a waned hippie movement, on-going fight for equality and conservative politics, society was giving way for a new generation, and they saw the world from a thoroughly modern perspective. The yuppie is a collective term for ‘young urban professionals’ and is referring to a college-educated adult, living in or close to a big city and is employed at a well-payed work. The group became a symbol of the rising American economy the stereotypical 80s affluent professional, obsessed with materialism and financial success (Halton, 2019). Rowing Blazers, 2019

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AIDS CRISIS One of the most tromendous happenings of the early 80s was the AIDS epidemic. In the behginning of the decade the virus was very little or not at all understood. As a result of homofobia and not the right information AIDS was first reffered as the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Gay Plagueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, as gay people got very sick without reason. As a cause of a wild club scene, globalization and sexual ignorance the epidemic spread rapidly worldwide. Nevertheless, in 1983, scientists discovered the virus for AIDS. Reports supporting the recognizion of AIDS first came from Los Angeles, later from California, Europe and Africa (Gander, 2017). Unknown, 2018

CULTURAL

Pinterest, 2019

1980-85

FITNESS FONDA AND THE 80s OBSESSION Having a toned body and looking fresh, was more

Smithey. The 80s aerobics explosion included sexy

prized than anything else. This decade was a period

outfits, beautiful women and often a hot male in-

of fitness obsession and women were more into it

structor. Heading to a fitness centre was this decades

than men. Fact is, for the first time in history, women

version of the 70s discotheque (LowBrow, 2014).

went to the gym and aerobics classes to get muscles (Siclait, 2019). Although a more self-conscious

The holistic “losing weight” hype, lead to a market

mindset first appeared in the late 70s, it was during

full of appetite suppressants, diet pills and other

the early 80s that fitness and wellness went from

quick fitness fixes. Slim-fast and Dexatrim were both

being one’s hobby to the mainstream (Harris, 2017).

some of the most thriving brands on the market (Lacsamana, 2019). Being toned and losing those

In 1982, Jane Fonda released her first aerobic tape.

extra pounds was influencing everyone and every-

The VHS, called Jane Fondas Workout, came to be

thing. Fitness magazines were out of control and

a total hit, selling more than 17 million copies world-

advertisement for your next quick-fix was seen ev-

wide (Garcia, 2018). The at-home workout tapes was

erywhere. To summarize, the obsession for drugs

a notable trend of this decade, and beside Fonda,

in the 70s became replaced by fitness in the 80s.

other fitness icons were Richard Simmons and Greg

Lowbrow, 2014

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Piximus, 2016

Harperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bazaar, 2018

Fitness Fonda

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Tanya, 2016

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MUSIC AS A RELIGION Thanks to MTV, music in the 80s reached a new dimension. Music was more of a religion and all about the image. The artists started using their music to communicate about the problems in society, many times, political. The beginning of the decade reflected a period of income disparity and the music was reflecting affluent society. Disco faded as the 80 takes off and America paved the way for the appearance of new music genres such as Pop, Hip Hop, Rap, Hair Metal and New Wave.

Alongside MTV an entirely new breed of pop stars emerged. The channel helped starts to create an image and become iconic in its genre. Stars such as Madonna, Michael Jackson, Prince and Whitney Houston were all experiencing a level of fame that had not been appearing since the king of rock and roll in the mid-50s. The artists did not only influence the music scene, though they also changed fashion. As a result of the video format, the fans were closer to emerging trends like ever before. Record companies saw their artists as living brands rather than just a talented singer (Thepeoplehistory, no date)

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Leaper, 2017

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FASHION 1980-85

The 80s were about flaunting it, dressing for power a day and sin by night” explains Sarah Jessica Parcer in her narration of Vogue by decade (Vogue, 2017). As wealth was reflected in the music, fashion became the medium to portray it visually. Dressing in breed was a must for the high society in cities such as New York, London, Milan and Paris and the idea of more is more, evolved. The new trend was reflected into wide shoulders, big hair, satured colours and pearls. Also, the fashion shows were just as fancy and as ‘more is more’ as the clothes themselves.

As seen in late 70s, dressing for success meant getting dressed as boys. Fashion mirrored politics and as women strove to

become as powerfull as men,

the power suit was born. As the traditional role of gender was reconstructed, there was nothing you could not wear. Women in men’s clothing or the other way around, noone really cared. The fashion scene of the 80s was way more splittred than in the 70s. Fisher, 2019

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...interesting fact The society of 1980s was a time of refreshment in many ways. As the decade began, Disco music fell out of style and the last traces

1970s

fashion

dissapeared.

The

fashion industry bloomed as a result of a self-conscious behavious among consumers.

More is more

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YOHIJI YAMAMOTO Known for being one of the most well-known modern designers, Yohji Yamamoto is prized for successfully finding the collaboration between commodity and art. The designer presented his first ready-to-wear collection year 1981, in Paris. Over the second two years that come, he and his partner Yamamoto was the pioneers among deconstructed fashion. Their aesthetics shocked the audience, and the silhouettes became

Bannerman, 2018

the trend among urban society (mears, no date).

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I think perfection is uglyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - Yamamoto Model wearing Yamamotos design in 1981

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REI KAWAKUBO The self-taught Japanese designer and her label Comme des Garcons had her international breakthrough in 1981. The designer had a successful debut on the Paris

Karmali, 2012

runway and her style is known for her spectacular vision.

Sweater by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garรงons, 1982.

KEY INNOVATION

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1980-85

MUSIC TELEVISION In 1981, MTV (Music Television) started a music rev-

Started off focusing on the rock and roll market, MTV

olution and changed it all. The TV channel was cre-

expanded to include rhythm and blues artist and final-

ated to show music videos and immediately became

ly, the channel saw its glory days. The collaboration

the number one source for any music lover (Berlin

between Michael Jackson‘s Thriller album in 1982 and

Time, 2016). The purpose of MTV was to devote a

the channel showcased the power of the music video

whole channel solely to music. The first video ever

format. As Michael Jackson hit records, it also proved

shown was the Buggles “Video Killed the Radio Star”.

that exposing a video on MTV was highly efficient. The most famous artist of the ’80s, such as Madonna,

In its early years, MTV was struggling due to a shal-

Tina Turner and Peter Gabriel were all succeeding to

low production of music videos. Before MTV, mar-

stand out and pick in popularity thanks to the broad ro-

keting a song through video had never happened.

tation of their videos on the channel (Britannica, 2019).

Besides that, the Beatles filmed clips for TV in the

MTV is to thank for the way we consume music to this day.

late 60s and punks recognized the media use to drive sales, creating a video exclusively for a song was something thoroughly modern. The robust first years also depended on cable television as a luxury system.

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COMPUTER DISC In 1982, Sony introduced the absolute first CD audio player on the market. By this time, CDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were only manufactured by two companies (Philips and Sony) which caused a certain chaos. As the first CD players entered the market they was mopst popular in Europe and Japan. Later, in 1983, the CD-rom â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s was introduced on the American market (LEM, 2014).

THE FILM

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Today, Flashdance is considered to be an 80s classic and the absolute emblematic of its time. The movie became a commercial success and was one of top three most successful movies of its year (Ossola, 2019). Flashdance first received an significant amount of critizism for having a loose plot and bad acting. Nevertheless, it is honored for its fantastic soundtrack and is a strong reference in music, dance and fashion.

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A BRIEF SUMMARY OF FLASHDANCE

FILM LOCATION / SETTING

Flashdance portrays Alex, a beautiful young woman

The film location for Flashdance is the industrial city

working in a steel mill at day and dances in a bar

of Pittsburgh. Nonetheless, many of the much of the

at night. Alex is living in a man’s world. Her job is

filmings took place in the close-by town of Los An-

a typical man’s job, she dresses more boy-ish and

geles.

last but not least, she has an ideal man’s dog. Her

cated in the city, close to the Santa Monica Freeway.

biggest dream is to become a ballet dancer, even

The final scene of the movie was caught in the Bob

though she has never taken a professional class

Hope Patriotic Hall, even though most views of Flash-

in dancing or ballet. Nothing is for Alex impossi-

dance are all filmed in Pittsburgh (Newirth, 2019).

Alex’s apartment was a company building lo-

ble, she is typical of an 80s independent woman who has one big dream, and she is going to make

LOCATIONS | Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania;

it, regardless of whatsoever. Nick is Alex’s hand-

| Los Angeles, California

some boss, and he does not just seem to like her;

DIRECTOR

| Adrian Lyne

also, he fully supports her dreams. Flashdance is

CAST

| Jennifer Beals, Michael

a symbol of freedom, a teenagers dream and in-

| Nouri, Lilia Skala, Kyle T

credibly fantastic for anyone interested in fashion.

| Heffner, Sunny Johnson

Discogs, 2019

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SOUNDTRACK

The soundtrack of Flashdance plays a significant role

cerning its popularity, it is of importance to under-

when understanding the films massive success. The

stand the vital connection to MTV. As the soundtrack

film had, in comparison with other smashing hits, a

of Flashdance immediately became one of the U.S

significantly low budget. Also,

no major actors in-

best-sellers, the music production team was fast to

volved. With that said, Flashdance would never be the

produce material for MTV with segments of the mov-

gross-success it became if it was not for the music

ie in it. Flashdance was the first movie in history to

it provided. The soundtrack to this 80s classic sold

create music videos for its soundtrack. Meaning that

over 20 million copies worldwide, 6 million in the

it was the first film, which songs, went distributed on

United States whereas 200.000 of them sold in the

MTV. The music videos saw popularity among young

first two weeks after release. All singles represented

viewers, who directly bought tickets to see the movie.

in the soundtrack were peaking as nr. 1 on the U.S

It resulted in a sustained audience for a notable time,

billboard hot 100 and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Flashdance... What a feelingâ&#x20AC;?

way beyond expected. The collaboration was a win-win,

won an Oscar for best original song (IMDb, 2019).

as they both grew in parallel to each others success.

To understand what role the soundtrack plays con-

Main film poster for Flashdance

Paramount - flashdance poster, 1983

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Main film poster for Flashdance

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WHO IS THE MAN BEHIND THE MOVIE? ADRIAN LYNE Adrian Lyne is an English producer, writer and one of Hollywood’s A-listed directors. He is known for some of the most discussed movies of our time (Imbd, no date). Lyne first started his career as a commercial producer for television where he became admired for his visual and technical skills. Before his

...key films

debut as a filmmaker, Lyne directed two short movies as entries in the mid 70’s London Film Festival.

Foxes

1980

9 1/2 weeks

1986

Fatal Attraction

1987

Jacob’s Ladder

1990

Lolita

1997

Unfaithful

2002

His first real movie was Foxes in 1980, followed by Flashdance three years later.

Few directors are as

recognized as Lyne when it comes to presenting social issues on screen. The directors signature style is sharp, provocative with a sexual twist and his films have received considerable attention due to its controversy and promtness. In an interview with the Washington post in the early 90’s, the director explains “Oh, I’m bad at all that - what’s a trend, what’s not. I don’t know nor do I care,” (Vries, 2003).

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Lyne has a consistent theme, throughout allhis collection of produced films, which is sex. Nakedness and close up shots on more private areas have all been of discussion among critics. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Look, I live this kind of schizophrenic life. I spend half my time in France, where television {shows} acres of flesh and you never give it a thought. Well, you do for a day and then you forget all about it. But here and in England there is this kind of hang-up about it; people find it very tough to just enjoy sex.â&#x20AC;? explains the director in an Interview with Movie Maker (Moviemaker, no date). Lyne has an innovative mind and strong passion for little details. In the interview with Movie Maker, Lyneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant explains that Adrian always insisted on shooting his insert shots. He wanted to ensure that he captured the abrasive moments, which people would remember (Moviemaker, no date). Moreover, in an other interview with the American film institute, Jennifer Beals explains that she has never been working with someone as passionate visually as Lyne (Beals, 2012). Fact is, aside from all critics Flashdance has received, no one has ever criticized his visual sharpness. Some might say that the directors background in advertising is visible throughout his scripts. The director himself states that when working as a commercial producer, he always treated his product as if they were small films. With that said, his former career might have worked as an influence for his contemporary one. As commercials are created to cause certain strong A young Adrian Lyne at the premiere of Foxes in 1980 Getty Images, 2010

emotions among the viewers, his skills in advertising could be the reason for his provocative themes in film.

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TION The following chapter will analyse the film language and elements of style. It will also present a personal collection of key photographic images applying sign and meaning. This pictures will justify what makes Flashdance unique.

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AN ANALYSIS Flashdance started as a win or loose project. The

was everything but reality. The way Alex’s actions

film-maker Lyne among his co-producers has admit-

communicates that “you better treat me right” was

ted that they were recommended to end the produc-

taken out of a dream scenario. Every young girl of

tion to prevent complete failure. It makes us won-

the 80s dreamt of independence and freedom, never

der, what was so wrong about Flashdance that no

really about something related to one who is working

one seemed to believe in it? On the other hand,

as a welder in a steel mill. Flashdance and the story

what was the reasons behind its enormous success,

about Alex completely paused the reality of the work-

what is the recipe for causing box-office records

ing class. Since it communicates the American dream

and taking the world by storm? When Flashdance

with a modern twist, it told every single young girl of

chocked the public, nothing like it had existed.

the 80s to “take their passion and make it happen”. Fact is, women in the workforce earning wages or

In general, the notion behind it is rather visual than

salary are part of a modern phenom. Therefore, a bit

focusing on a narrative. Common themes in the movie

odd how men are treating her at work. Also, the way

are love, sex and dreams come through. Although,

Alex acts and the way she looks is very different from

an underlying subject of the 70s female empower-

the 80s yuppies, who went to college and had a well-

ment movement is consistent. In the way, Alex acts

payed job, dressed in fancy clothes from top to toe.

regard men and her way of taking her passion and make it happen. As Flashdance lacks when it comes

Nothing is wrong dressing like a boy. Although, in

to natural emotions,

the theme of female empow-

comparison to the 80s ‘dreamers’, it was controver-

erment and independence provides all situations

sial. Taking us back to the workforce, to be accepted

with valuable knowledge to, by ourself, feel for Alex.

as a woman at work during the early 80s required a certain level of professionality, both personally and

As already stated throughout this research paper,

fashion-wise. Alex though dresses as she wants and

Flashdance uniqueness follows with the historical peri-

her actions come joined. Could be because she works

od in which it arose. Back in the early 80s, the work-

in a steel mill. Still, her outfits are often very different

force was majorly male-represented. This fact could

from the 80s traditional. Also, somehow, in the way

at first seem well addressed in the movie, as Alex

Alex act, it seems like she does not understand the sex

is the only representative of her sex at work. Nev-

appeal she has. It is like she acts sexually, without re-

ertheless, being an 18-year-old girl, representing the

alizing it herself. Ask yourself, does that ever happen?

alienating working-class and still have it all together,

Have you ever removed a bra in front of a guy, with

a ‘cute’ girl kind off the face, like if it was the most normal thing ever?

A situation like this explains the

movie as a whole. Many of Alex’s circumstances are hard to understand because there is no way we know her. She never tells what she is thinking; neither does she talk about anything else than sex, boys or dance. Yet, Flashdance is all about Alex. Few sequences shows us the story of the rest. With that said, if Alex character feels empty of narrative,

the others are

just some bi-roles acting to add value for her part.

With all that said, Flashdance expresses a wide range of attitudes, yet far from the ones happening in the 80s American culture.

Alex came to be

a new brand of an 80s girl, one who lived in the space of a romcom, yet determined and fierce, while completely embracing her sexuality on her terms.

‘take your passion and make it happen’

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Flashdance, 1983

KEY PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGES

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SHOTS AND ANGLES Regarding shots, most sequences are close-ups focusing on feet (shoes), faces or most commonly, the female thighs area. Out of that, the camera range is a medium-long shot or full shot. The Camera angles in Flashdance is equal throughout the whole filming. The film has a generally straight-on angle, with the object focused in the middle of the photograph. The point of view, on the other hand, has a broad variation in position. Nonetheless, it seems like Lyne liked the result of reaction shots. Flashdance is a movie based on dance and with that comes an audience, which clarifies the choice of continuous reaction shots. Another example of this type of shot is the legendary bra-removal scene.

Like the second, you think â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;what will

Nick do?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the camera switch angle and you get the answer by his facial expression. The widely use of these type of shots could be a way to showcase feelings without verbally putting them into manus of the characters. Besides that, Flashdance consists of everything from inserting shots to point-of-view, reverse-angle, establishing and over the shoulder shots.

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Over the shoulder shot

Straight on angle

The famous bra-removal reaction shot Flashdance, 1983

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Flashdance, 1983

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Personally, there is no more iconic photographic im-

was controversial. As her thighs are wholly naked, the

age of Flashdance as this one. Alongside other con-

choice of colour serves as a sign of empowerment as

troversial pictures in the movie, this one showcases

the scene otherwise is quite erotic. All in all, what if

her naked thighs in the middle of the shot. Her hip is

her outfit was all red instead of black? Correctly, it

moving up and down before changing leg. The scene

would serve as a completely different meaning to it.

in which Alex is stretching and running around serves no particular purpose and is 4 minutes long. However, black bikini bottoms, leg warmers and a crop top will forever have a life-long reference to Flashdance. In a time of the 80s colour bombing, wearing black

Dressing for success in the ’80s often meant dress-

ed by coming up on stage wearing that red dress,

ing like the men. Tailoring was the sexy mainstream,

the situation would be completely different. The suit,

for women to break the ceiling to equality. In this

in this case, is a symbol for her feminine power.

photographic picture, Alex is on stage dressed in an overdressed suit. Not very long after this shot captures, the suit takes off and underneath she wears a red, very tight, feminine dress. The scene is shown early in the movie, which could be a symbolic statement of power. The costume itself makes a huge statement, and nothing else matters. If Alex start-

This photograph portrays Alex reading French Vogue

in her first Vogue cover,

the magazine comes to

during her lunch break at work. It is also the first time

be for the others than high class. Interesting by this

in which she interacts with her boss Nick, as he inter-

photograph is that we do not know why Lyne focused

rupts her by asking “do you speak french?” And Alex

so badly on using Vogue as a statement in this in-

answers “ No, I just like the pictures?”. It all makes

teraction between Alex and Nick. Nor do we know

us wonder, why Vogue? And why french Vogue? Also,

why it was a French issue and not American. The

which 18 years old girl working as a welder, reads

Fashion magazine could be an extension of Alex often

Vogue during her lunch break or, at all. In 1980, Vogue

hidden femininity since she “lives in a man’s world”.

was still reserved for high-class society and first in

Lyne and his connection to France might also have

1988 when Anna Wintour was mirroring the ‘real life’

played an significant role in the chosen French issue.

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Flashdance, 1983

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In this geographical dance number, Alex is first sit-

might be a symbol for the changes in television and

ting in front of a television to freak out as the light

how it influenced people. As if the way Alex reacts

starts changing completely. As television transformed

symbolizes how the American population responded

in the 1980s, the American government lost its mo-

to what they now could see on American TV. More-

nopoly on what the population viewed in their living

over, Alex’s face makeup could be a political sign in

rooms. Alex, in her egg-white costume and white-

which she refuses to be told what to do as respond

faced makeup, starts to repeatedly throw herself

to the liberation caused by television and media.

against the wall as if she was receiving a beating. A show quite modern for an audience filled with welders. How Alex freaks out and jumps against the wall

The pair of shoes one’s wear has been a consis-

the left wears heels or ballet shoes. Even the po-

tent way through history, to tell a story behind the

sition stands very different in comparison to Alex’s.

person of consideration. In Flashdance, many shots

The importance of these continuous shots is that

are focusing on feet and shoes. In this particular

it is the only clear proof that Alex is working-class.

one, Alex has arrived at the ballet academy for her application. As she is meeting the other girls in the doorway, the scene changes. Forthcoming is a closeup shot on the differences of their shoes, starting with hers and moves slowly to the left. Alex has a pair of well-used truck boots while as the girls to

The only family member Alex has seems to be her pitbull Grunt, that stays well-tempered in all situations. The bread has through history had a frightening image due to causes of abusements of their strength. Fact is that in 1980 dogfighting saw a resurgence in the U.S. So, why does Alex have a pitbull and not a labrador. Once again, an extension of her personality. Grunt is not placed in the storyline to play a significant role, but to be a symbol of Alex life. The boy-ish, independent and strong character she is.

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Flashdance, 1983

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The iconic water scene was all an original idea of the director Adrian Lyne. The image captures Alex burlesque number, also called the wet dance, where she douses herself in water. The choreographic has become as iconic as the movie itself, receiving

recognition

from

several

modern

films

and shows. Nevertheless, what is more, sexy and controversial than dancing all wet on a scene in front of only men. As with everything else that Alex does, she does not seem to think it is that absurd.

The legendary bra-removal scene is a continuous discussion throughout this whole paper. Fact is this scene and what it includes came to be one of the most interesting ones, as Nick is sitting in front of her utterly moved of what is going on. The scene moves on with the Oscar-winning original song “Flashdance… What a Feeling,” in the background. Not only does this scene portray Alex boldness, but it also showed the young viewers in the 80s that women take control too!

The most typical scene related to Jane Fonda and aerobics must be this one as the girls hit the gym in their colourfull lycra outfits. Interesting though, is that the thights that completes all aerobics related pictures of the time is gone. No distrust Flashdance was called erotic, when the camera takes a close up look on the very private part of a woman and adding up by choosing to skip the only ‘covering’ part of the outfit.

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Flashdance, 1983

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As discussed in the fashion communication part, Alex dresses very often in black. In opposite, her only competitor dresses in white. Coincidence, I do not think so. Nick’s ex-wife has an angel kind of look that not mainly adds up to her character, as we do not know anything about her. Although, it serves as a sign to Alex character, as she is her complete opposite

In this sequence of the film, Nicks ex-wife asks how they are doing, and Alex answers, ‘yeah I fucked his brains out’.

Quite provocative in general, not at

least for an 80s movie coming from an 18-year-old girl in a particular costume. If this does not add up to the character Alex is, I do not know what does.

Alex on her way, meeting the love of her life and her dog Grunt, after her successful application for the ballet academy. This photographic image is the symbolic American dream. The rose on Grunt back, Nick next to his beautiful car and the green lawn, all add up to the final message of ‘take your passion and make it happen’. This cheesy, at least perfect, last shot is communication that you can do it if you wants to.

FASHION COMMUNICAT research book

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TION

Following mening

chapter and

in Flashdance.

aioms

observation

to on

apply the

sign

and

costumes

In order to understand how

style contructs character, an analysis is made.

WHO IS THE MAN BEHIND THE COSTUMES?

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MICHAEL KAPLAN n 1983, Michael Kaplan had just started his career in Hollywood. Fact is, Flashdance was his second long-film. Although, the costume designer won the British Academy of Film and Television Arts Award for Best Costume Design for his futuristic work in Blade Runner, his first theatrically released film ever.

Ever since his start in the film industry in 1981, Kaplan has been part of some of the most wellknown

collective

films,

such

Pearl

Har-

bour, Star Wars and Fight Club. All very diverse in the sense of style, yet all part of the main-

Main film poster for Flashdance

Tallis - Michael Kaplan, no date

stream knowledge in film history (Moore, 2019).

Sheehan - Sketch by Michael Kaplan, 2017

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Cott - Blade Runner, 2012

Sketch made by Michael Kaplan for the costumes in Blade Runner, 1982

Final Costumes Morris - Blade Runner, 2014

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AN ANALYSIS Kaplan is known for his spectacular and diverse pieces of work. His innovative costumes have not only in-

for many high fashion brands worldwide (Stoppard, 2017). Although, the mainstream mostly adapted the costumes seen in Flashdance. In an interview with The Institute of Film, Lyne explains that in a week after the film release, a friend of him called to tell that every girl out there was wearing an off-shoulder grey sweatshirt (Beals, 2012). The simple piece became one of the most innovative and fashionable outfits of the 80s. Before Flashdance, no one was wearing a sweatshirt with a DIY cut-off collar. Nonetheless, many think this was a costume idea by Kaplan. Fact is, the grey sweatshirt was belonging to Beals herself. The innovative design was a result by accidentally shrinking the garment and to be able to use it again, Beals cut the collar off. Later on in the interview with The Institute of Film, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Beals explains that most of the more casual outfits consisted of her garments. Yes, Kaplan was the costume designer for the spectacular dancewear pieces as well as some of the innovative formal wear. Although, what was influencing the era in which the film took place - was the casual pieces. And why so? Might be for the reason that Beals own garments as part of the costumes, was more natural to adapt to which resulted in an epidemic of grey off-the-shoulder jersey and leg warmers..

The all time grey sweater

fluenced the mainstream, yet also taken as inspiration

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In the famous scene in which Alex enjoys a fancy dinner with Nick. It seems like she wears an over-sized suit until she takes off her blazer and underneath is just a construction of a shirt (not a real one). The way a bib, cuff and wing collar constructed a very modern shirt look-a-like was undoubtedly a way for Lyne and Kaplan to shock the audience. It was an exploitation of Alexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latent femininity and a very innovative piece of work.

Flashdance, 1983

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...MORE Flashdance, as a movie, has received an excellent re-

provoke certain feelings among the viewers. Kaplan,

sponse for its visuals, thereby the costumes. While the

the talented costume designer he is, was probably

more boyish clothing amplifies the persona Alex is, the

thinking of the fact he was adding a touch of red

fancy costumes she wears on the scene could be a

to all outfits Alex wear. Notwithstanding, the use of

metaphor for her dream. It is also fascinating how Ka-

colours throughout all costumes only strengthen Alex

plan decided to dress Alex in an all-black outfit, during

as a character. The dark colours and all-black outfits

both the first and last dance sequence of the movie.

is a symbol of her independence and strength while

It is like the outfit, somehow, makes the story coher-

the colour red symbolises her, many times uncon-

ent. Alex’s black outfit screams ‘I am different!’. There

scious, sex appeal. Precisely in the way Bardot came

is no doubt it was a strategic decision to dress her in

to be associated with the colour red in the 60s.

that particular outfit during her final performance in the ballet academy. As the main costume for a ballet

Besides innovative pieces and use of colour, Flash-

dancer is light and bright, Alex went for the opposite.

dance also shows us outfits directly inspired by its

Fact is, all outfits Alex wears tells us a lot about her

time. Activewear, such as jeans, branded sneakers

character and identify her by amplifying her actions.

and tight lycra were all trendy pieces during the beginning of the 80s. In comparison to Alex, her

If talking about colours, it is one that is significant-

boyfriend Nick, is dressed very differently. His style is

ly important to analyse.

Alex wears or is associ-

not very surprising, and it stays consistent through-

ated with the colour red throughout the whole of

out the whole movie. Fact is, that is the case for

the 90-minute long film. If it is not a red suit, it

all characters except Alex. The way Kaplan chose to

is red heels, accessories, socks, red lighting or a

style Nick, has strong references from Italy. Under-

package of red Malboro cigarettes. As a psycho-

standable, as Nick was a wealthy mill owner, with a

logic reference of colour in film, the meaning of

luxurious house and a nice car. Tweed jackets and

red symbolises the colour of love, passion, seduc-

finely knitted sweatshirts were both Armani staples,

tion, strength, danger, anger and adventure (Fusco,

portraying his richness (Laverty, 2009). The way Nick

2016). The colour red takes us back to the french

and Alex dress differently completes the story in

actress Brigitte Bardot, who became associated with

many ways. It is the perfect sign of unpredictable

the colour in context. When it comes to the choice

love and female independency, as Alex does not care

of colours, it is decisive to use the colour red to

of what Nick has to say about her way dressing.

100

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The colour red

101

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...AND MORE When it comes to hair and makeup, Alex is not the typical

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the bigger the hair, the betterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Her, along

with the other women in the movie, has a quite modern look. Influences from the 70s disco scene appear as soon as the girls glitter up for a show. Other wise, the look is very natural in comparison to the outgoing, big and colourful time it was emerging in.

With all said, Flashdance is very much divided into two categories, casual wear and dance wear. Even thoughKaplan was a main influence to the style thoughout the whole movie, there is a significant difference in the pieces that was mainly contructed by him and partly influenced by Beals. If comparing to his earlier award winning work for Blade Runners, there is a consistency thoughout all costumes, where as in Flashdance the costumes are all very unpredictable. All in all, flashdance migh have had some unconsistency fashion wise. Nevertheless, all pieces are to thank for the outcome of being a complete epitome of 80s style.

102

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Flashdance, 1983

103

CONCEPT DEVELOPMEN research book

1. CONTEMPORARY EVIDENCE

s. 106-109

2. KEY PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGES

s. 110-113

104

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The concept development part will present contemporary evidence of Flashdance as well as work as an undergone research to visually communicate the concepts that will be in CWK2.

105

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CONTEMPORARY EVIDENCE

Flashdance has had a significant influence on contemporary culture. A countless number of tributes of the film can be found in different contexts, from iconic

off-shoulder

sweater,

the

promoting

mov-

ie poster for Deadpool 2 to Flashdance the musical worldwide. The movie has also served as an important help to develop new dance flicks, which can be seen in a numerous of film

such

as Footloose and Dirty Dancing (Coomer, 2018).

Barbie, 2019

106

107

Deadpool 2, 2018

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Kudacki - ELLE, 2016

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IMBd, 2016

108

Max Azria, 2016

IMBd, 2003

Calvin Klein, 2017

Rosenthal, 2017

109

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In spite off everything, Flashdance has served an important role as core inspiration for fashion. ON the catwalks, the iconic elements of the films costumes has been taken as inspiration for the designers modern looks, such as off-shoulder cuts, jeans on jeans and glitter. Flashdance has also played an important role in many of our contemporary celebrities and their own projects. One of the most clear evidences for channeling the film and its style, is Jennifer Lopez’s music video for her song ‘I’m Glad’ in 2003. The idea was to recreate scenes from the movie, which later resulted in a lawsuit based on copyright infringement claims (IMBd, 2003). Moreover, In 2016, Kanye Wests popular FADE music video came to be one of the

A Simple Favor, 2018

Band of Gypsies, 2017

most recent visuals channeling Alex in Flashdance.

research book

KEY PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGES

‘What if a woman w objectify a man,the w man objectifies a wom just by the fact she is wearing his suit?’ Lipchanskaia, no date

I want my editorial to be serious with a touch of

fun

elements. The theme will be use the sex art of fruit, to demonstrate the given theme around ‘What if a woman would objectify a man, the way a man objectifies a woman, just by the fact she is wearing his suit?. The shots will

be right on, changing from

110

close-

ups on body-parts and face to full body images. The angles will focus on showcasing femininity and power, but in a fun way. This will be an artistic editorial playing around the theme making something non-sexual related to the manly sex.

research book

would way a man, s Krau, 2019

The Portland Studio, no date

Fotovramke, no date

Xu, no date

Demkova, no date

111

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IMG Models, 2019

Sperlich, no date

Jota, no date

112

research book

Rigaud, no date

Gylling, 2018

IV-Skaya, no date

113

IST OF EFERENCES

research book

114

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Flashdance, 1983

115

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120

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Flashdance, 1983

121

WORKSHOP Together with the others in my class, which hadalso chosen Flashdance, we had a workshop session. The purpose was to identify the core themes and explore them further.

The following pages will give an

overview of the

different parts of the workshops, finishing with 7 key Images that are inspired by the 7 key themes found.

research book

122

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123

LouLouVonGlup, 2019

Viviane Sassen - Dazed and Confused, 2018

Christian Houge - Lion, 2019

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124

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FEMINISM This strong picture, of a female lion on fire, is a visual presentation of what feminism is and has always been like. The way the lion is still rawring while knowing that the end is to come, could be a symbol of never quiting. Feminism is about standaĂng upon rampards for female rights, fitghing even though it seems like nothing will ever change - and rawring for your right, in all situations possible!

FASHION Fashion, such a broad and complex subject. How is it possible to put the meaning of fashion in words, when fashion is a manner of doing very much, in completely different ways. The picture above, portrays excactly this. Everything can be fashion, if put in the right situation.

SEX Sex is a word reffers to the

with two very specific meanings. It gender of a person or

a physical

activity between organs. Even though, much and often not the organ itself, can be a symbol for sex. The fruit below, is a red grape without its shall. However, a human mind tends to reffer it to something else?

125

Bettina Rheims - Le Lait miraculeux de la Vierge 1997

Scarlett Hooft Graafland - Resolution 30h, 2019

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Viviane Sassen, Vesuvio, 2017

126

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DREAMS COME TRUE The longing for having something so much it hurst. This picture showcase a guy, gently holding in his ship. We do not know if he is suppose to let it go or if he is just a bit scared for the moment of the fact that the ship might not work as he hoped for. This is dreaming for me, being in a consistent thinking of what is - but still moving forward.

WORKING CLASS When thinking of the working class, it seems like in general, we have already decided how it looks like. The picture I have chosen, is capturing a family sitting in their car. Their facial expressions sad, they seem tired

are quite

and the car seat is destroyed.

Nevertheless, who says this is a working class family?

CONTROVERSAL

ART

Women as gender, is often very provocative them-

Common for arts is that it creates something visual.

selves.

seems

This photograph has an emotinal power. As you look

like nothing is as controversal. This image is in-

at it, you see something, you feel something but you

cluding many different aspects of what is seen

might not being able to put it in place. That is art.

When

exposing

their

bodies,

as controversal , yet only controversal in cntrast to your own thought of what is wrong and right.

127

LIST OF REFERENCES research book

128

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PICTURES Page 118-119: Houge,

(2019).

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(Image).

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from:

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Oct

Available

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2019).

from:

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2019)

Sassen, V. (2018) . Dazed & Confused (Image). Available from: https://the-dots.com/projects/dazed-and-confused-photographed-by-viviane-sassen-223708 (Accessed 27 Oct 2019)

Page 119-120 Graafland,

SH.

Resolution

30h

(Image).

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Rheims,

(1997).

Lait

miraculeux

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Sassen,

(2017).

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(Image)

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(Accessed

from:

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AVailable

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Oct

Available 26

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2019).

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com/2017/04/27/viviane-sassen-at-stevenson-johannesburg/ (Accessed 21 Oct 2019).

129

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130

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131