Go Large

Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses sewing with large print fabrics

I love large print fabrics as they’re stunning to look at and empowering to wear but these can be a little challenging to sew with, as they can need more planning before cutting and constructing of the garment.

Fabric types

Large print designs can be found on lots of different fabrics these days including cotton, rayon, silk, linen and knit jersey.

Choosing a pattern

A pattern with simple design lines work well, such as dresses, blouses, skirts and trousers with larger pattern pieces.

Darts, pleats and any other tucks of fabric used for shaping can interfere with larger prints so it is best to limit these. Princess seams and tiers can also be lost in the print.

Pattern layout and positioning prints

The thought of mismatched patterns on your final garment may send you into a blind panic but spending more time at the layout stage will avoid this from happening.

Half-drop directional shown on Wind Song Eight, from Path of Discovery, a forthcoming collection from AGF

Wind Song Eight, from Path of Discovery by AGF

What is a repeat pattern?

The interval at which a decorative motif or pattern is duplicated along the width is either horizontal or vertical and known as the repeat patterns. In general, large print fabrics are usually categorised with a design that repeats every 15cm (6in).

Straight directional repeat shown on Gleaming Sun Copper Rayon from AGF’s Gloria Collection

Gleaming Sun Copper Rayon from Gloria by AGF

There are different types of repeat patterns such as straight in directional and non-directional.

Non-directional means the pattern is the same which ever way up you view it. With a straight directional repeat, some of the motifs may be upside down in one direction. Half-drop repeat patterns that are non-directional are where the motifs are off-set. Half-drop directional repeat patterns need more fabric and can be more challenging to pattern match.

Fringe from Chalk & Notch

First steps

Start by spending some time draping the fabric over your body to try different placements for the larger motifs. Try to avoid them falling directly on the bust, stomach or bottom. Having said that placing large prints in certain places can add to the drama like the cap of a sleeve or on a hem. Large floral prints and one-way designs do require more fabric, so always work with the ‘with nap’ layout in the pattern instructions sheet.

Prepare your pattern pieces

Draw in the seam allowances on the paper pattern pieces and press them under to create a good crease. Because you’ll need to arrange motifs for each pattern piece, I would recommend cutting every pattern piece on a single layer of fabric rather than on the fold.

Try this foolproof method:

1. Whether you are making a dress, top or skirt, centrefront and centre back seams need to be perfect as this area will show the most if there are any mismatched motifs.

2. Cut out one side of the pattern first. Place the pattern piece, right side up, onto the fabric and move the pattern piece around until you’re satisfied with the motif positioning. When happy pin and cut out using a rotary cutter so you don’t lift the fabric.

3. You can now use this piece to align and cut out your second side. Remember to fold under the seam allowance on your paper pattern piece and flip it over.

4. Lay it down on the fabric so that the folded edge lines up with the folded edge of your cut fabric pattern piece. Once you are sure that the pattern design lines up, remove the cut pattern piece and fold back the seam allowance and re-pin in place and cut the second side out with the rotary cutter.

Sewing

Re-press the seam allowance on the fabric pieces making sure that the pattern lines up perfectly. Now sew seams together on the pre-creased line. Fork pins are very useful at this stage to keep every thing together.

Extra Tips for Success

• Always pick simple closures for large print fabrics.

• Use a walking foot so both layers of your seam feed underneath the foot at the same speed and your fabric stays aligned!

• Be brave – Different size prints can look great together but don’t mix too many patterns. Use a common colour, same weight and drape to keep it all together.