SUSTAINABILITY AND TEXTILE NATHALIE NORMANN HANYU LU YELIM LEE JAY SEO HYONI WOO
What is Sustainability? Sustainability refers to fabrics derived from eco - friendly resources, such as sustainably grown fiber crops or recycled materials. It also refers to how these fabrics are made.
Also could be defined as Ability or capacity of something to be maintained or to sustain itself. If an activity is said to be sustainable, it should be able to continue forever.
What is Eco-fashion? ○ Buying natural materials like cotton and wool ○ Raise the awareness of the consumers ○ Create a system which can be supported indefinitely in terms of human impact on the environment and social responsibility. https://www.pinterest.com/libraire_/reci clado-de-mezclilla/
The most sustainable fibers/fabrics Cotton Hemp Bamboo Jute
Natural fibers: Cotton ○ We consume 45% of the world’s cotton product. ○ Cotton cultivation uses vast quantities of water and agrochemicals. ○ A single pair of jeans, requires between 7000 to 29000 liters of water. http://www.interloom.org/fabrics/han dwoven-100-organic-cotton-fabric-1 30gm2-121cm-unbleached/
The Aral Sea is rapidly diminishing as a result.
http://www.doncronerblog.com/2015/08/threw-my-airbook-kindle-and-came ra-into.html
Organic Cotton
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
Continued. ● ●
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Grown without chemicals Requires less water than conventional cotton farming Easily recycled Biodegradable
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
Natural fibers: Hemp ○ The use of hemp fiber dates back at least 6000 years. ○ Grow more quickly and easily than trees ○ Cost effective ○ High - yield crop ○ Can be grown on marginal soils ○ Harvested for their seed and oils increasing food security ○ Low maintenance plant
http://www.hempyreum.org/en/75455
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
Manmade fibers: Bamboo ○ A valuable fiber within the sustainable fashion market. ○ It is less expensive to cultivate than cotton, and requires very little pesticides or fertilizers. ○ Easy to extract ○ Remains a highly regenerative fiber. https://www.pinterest.com/nancybla nton/bamboo-simple-beauty/
○ Increased demand of bamboo has led to deforestation in China.
Continued. ● ● ● ●
● ●
Fastest growing grass Grown organically Little environmental impact Relies on rainwater
Labor intensive Expensive
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2 016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
Jute
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
Jute ● ● ● ● ● ●
Vegetable fibers Environment friendly Can be grown on marginal soils Less water No chemical pesticides Grow fast
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider/
Designers revolutioning sustainable fashion
Katie Jones SS 16 Central Saint Martins 2013 ● Waste Not ● Using unwanted materials ● hand dyeing, crochet, embroidery.
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/five-designers-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion
Faustine Steinmetz Central Saint Martins ● Hand crafted denim ● Unique production ● Reworked edition of modern classics ● Hand dyeing, embroidery
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/five-designers-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion
Hiut Denim ● Known as champion of organic ● Hard - wearing denim ● Revive the denim industry ● Employing local citizens to create organic jeans
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/five-designers-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion
Auria London ● Swimwear label ● Creating futuristic styles from recycled fabrics ● Using abandoned fishnets
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/five-designers-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion
Unmade ● Design with customers ● Bespoke knitwear ● Merino wool, cashmere ● Computer programmed knitting
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/five-designers-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion
Why do we need to talk about sustainability in textile industry?
http://www.fastfashion-dieausstellung.de/en/
Fast Fashion cheaper apparel and faster trend cycles coupled with low quality and planned obsolescence.
Environmental impacts ○ Energy use
○ Use of toxic chemicals
Energy use
http://www.himane.com/single-post/2015/08/04/Potentially-toxic-chemicals-are-ubiquitous-in-the-textile-industry-and-children-maybe-most-at-risk
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Cultivation of 1kg of cotton, the most popular natural textile fibre, requires 8000-10000 liters of water.
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The most common synthetic fibre – polyester doesn’t require any or little water to be produced, but needs twice as much energy as cotton production, and uses non-renewable resources.
Use of toxic chemicals
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/gallery/2012/dec/06/toxic-threads-greenpeace-fashion-pollution-in-pictures
Hazardous chemicals particularly in cotton production, wet pre-treatment, dyeing, finishing and making up.
Step 1. YARN Oils to reduce friction during spinning. Step 2. FABRIC PRODUCTION Sizing chemicals, lubricants, solvents such as benzene, adhesives, and binders. Step 3. PRE-TREATMENT Surfactants such as alkylphenol ethoxylates, solvents, bases for cleaning fabric, bleaches to prepare for dyeing. Step 4. DYEING AND PRINTING Heavy metal fixing agents and dyestuffs, polymers and plasticizers for printing, detergents. Step 5. FINISHING Softening using ammonium compounds, silicones, polyurethanes; crease resistance using a formaldehyde-based resin; water and stain resistance using fluorocaarbons.
Exploitation of labor ○ The majority of the world’s 40 million garment laborers work in dangerous conditions. ○ Most of workers are doing their job in inadequate and inhumane conditions. ○ They are paid (if paid) “minimal”wages.
http://blog.besunny.com/?p=13967&ckattempt=2
Rana Plaza collapse in 2013, happened one of the deadliest accidents in the fashion industry, when over 1100 people died and several thousands more were injured at the manufacturing factory Rana Plaza in Bangladesh.
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/jul/18/rana-plaza-collapse-murder-charges-garment-factory
https://kr.pinterest.com/source/drlopezheras.com
The process of manufacturing clothing ethically, taking into consideration the workers and environment.
https://www.customink.com/products/categories/short-sleeve -t-shirts/16/styles
https://kr.pinterest.com/source/esturirafi.com
Fast Fashion
Slow Fashion
Cost : $10 Duration : a few months
Cost : $30 Duration : a few years
The production of natural fiber, manmade fiber, and synthetic fiber Wool, Rayon, Lyocell, Nylon, Polyester
Natural fibers: Wool ○ Naturally occurring and renewable, fully biodegradable ○ The use of organic Wool is very limited. ○ In 2009, less than 0.1 percent of the UK 1.1 million tons of wool produced globally was organic.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wool
https://wovember.wordpress.com/2013/11/26/j uliet-morris-on-working-with-organic-wool/
Manmade fibers: Rayon ○ Cheaper than silk ○ Many inexpensive, mass-produced clothes began to be made. ○ Rayon production is highly energy intensive, and far from eco-friendly. https://www.pinterest.com/textilesymas/fibras-te xtiles/
Continued. â—‹ Viscose is a process for making rayon and other fibers. â—‹ It causes air and water pollution from emissions, and it has been the subject of legislation
Manmade fibers: Lyocell ○ Lyocell utilizes a closed-loop manufacturing process. ○ It is as comfortable and absorbent as cotton, and it is fully biodegradable. ○ Lyocell is specially designed to reduce environmental impact.
http://www.crystalace.com.my/guide/
Synthetic fibers: Nylon ○ Nylon fiber proved to be versatile—it could be made to resemble anything from silk satin to wool.
○ Shipments of nylon fabric increased from 25.4 million to 134.1 million pounds.
○ Nylon relies to petroleum oil, a limited resource.
○ Nylon production generated nitrous oxide.
http://fibre.fibre2fashion.com/nylon-fibre_su ppliers_p260.html
Synthetic fibers: Polyester ○ Polyester is made from petroleum. ○ The processing of petrochemicals also results in hazardous waste, the emission of which can be damaging to air, soil and water. ○ Uses less water than the manufacture of cotton ○ Accounted for more than 50 percent of total fiber production in 2011. https://www.viesso.com/blog/choosing-downversus-no-down-in-your-sofa.html
Environmental Issues relating to dyeing, printing, and finishing processes History, present, future
Background ○ 26 million people are involved in production of textiles and clothing. ○ Man made fibers account for nearly 60% of all textiles. ○ In 2009, 1.3 million tons of fabric was recovered for recycling in the US.
https://2.imimg.com/data2/MU/DW/MY-525236 1/textile-waste-250x250.jpg
○ All aspects of fashion production uses a range of chemicals at some stage in the production cycle.
Development of Dyeing ○ Dyeing was done using organic materials during the mid 19th century. ○ Dye stuffs and waste was localized, produced on a far smaller scale. ○ Aniline fabric dye, Mauveine was invented by William Henry Perkin in 1856.
http://www.crafthubs. com/diy-fabric-dyein g/39190
Continued. ○ Dyes began to be synthesized from chemical sources. ○ Chemical “coal tar colors” dominated fashion, and displacing many traditional plant or insect dyes. ○ Fastness- ability to withstand fading.
Problems with Dyeing ○ Impact the health of textiles workers and wearers, as well as their chemical pollution of waterways.
○ Color in water creates problems with photosynthesis or aquatic plant life
○ Components that contribute to water quality problems include: color, salts, acids, and heavy metals http://hubpak.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Textile-D yeing-Grade2.jpg
Continued. ○ The new dye was cost-effective. ○ Proper filtration and disposal can be an added expense for textile producers. ○ Dye effluent, liquid waste generated during the dyeing process.
http://www.telecinco.es/blogs/lavieenro sa/Ropa-Sucia-realidad-industria-textil _6_1716315001.html
Methods to reduce the pollution ○ Ultrasonic applicators ○ Alternatives or treating color in water systems ○ Computer monitoring decreases the environmental impact
○ The United States Environmental Protection Agency established standards for waste disposal
○ Biodegradable dyes ○ “Closing the loop”
http://media.oregonlive.com/playbooks-profits/photo/10533581-la rge.jpg
Finishing Process ○ Finishing transforms the fabric ○ Uses significant quantities of water and energy as well as potential hazardous chemicals ○ 40 years ago, it was not unusual for large finishing facilities to use millions of gallons of water daily
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/81/Textile_finishing_machinery,_Red_Bridge_Mills,_Ain sworth_-_geograph.org.uk_-_1584753.jpg/200px-Textile_finishing_machinery,_Red_Bridge_Mills,_Ainsworth_-_g eograph.org.uk_-_1584753.jpg
Incorporate systems to control pollution Membrane technology and reverse osmosis Foam finishing and other less water intensive processes Better and more efficient means of extracting water from fabrics prior to drying and heat-recovery ○ Hazardous, toxic, and carcinogenic finishing chemicals are being replaced ○ Chemicals being phased out ○ ○ ○ ○
http://www.voltas.com/textilemach/images/4.jpg
Future ○ gaining interest in the textile complex ○ pollution prevention ○ pollution reduction ○ closed-loop systems ○ plasma treatment
https://johnathonjones.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/nat ure-highway_00376687.jpg?w=2400&h=1600&crop=1
Problems with printing ○ Emissions of VOC’s ○ Contaminated water ○ Gaseous emissions
http://www.johnhembree.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Problems-Ahead.jpg
Greenpeace: The Detox Campaign
How is it being addressed in the industry? ○ Consumer awareness ○ Recycled textile/fibers ○ New companies ○ Various of groups forming for consumer education
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d5/0e/e 6/d50ee6b39fd1e8673850ec38f71797d4.jpg
New companies â—‹ Fox fibre cotton- first launched in 1980 and grown to the US to produce naturally tinted shades of pink and green cotton without the need for bleaching and dyeing. â—‹ EnviroTextiles - offers sustainable textiles, they specialize in Hemp and organic fibers.
http://media.treehugger.com/asse ts/images/2011/10/wweblogo.gif
http://technologytimes.pk/wp-content/ images/Farmers-.jpg
https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_imag es/1645693097/logo_07_ET1.jpg
Organizations ○ Greenpeace ○ Environmental Justice Foundation
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ e3/Environmental_Justice_Foundation_logo.png
http://www.greenpeace.org/usa/wp-content/uploads/2015/ 07/Greenpeace-logo.png
What can you do? ○ Repair and reuse ○ Use fewer dyed and printed textiles ○ Recycle carpets ○ Eco Labelling ○ Be willing to pay
https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/695 9702_f248.jpg
How can textile designers and fashion designers make a difference?
1.Design for Recycling/Upcycling 2.Design to Reduce Chemical impacts 3. Design to minimize waste 4. Design to Reduce Energy and Water Use 5. Design to Reduce the Need to Consume 6. Develop Systems & Services 7.Design Activism
1.Design for Recycling/Upcycling
http://kakidiy.com/content/recycle-upcycle/
http://kakidiy.com/content/recycle-upcycle/
Recycling example
Gary Harvey
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/41/6b/a1/416ba1c3b257afa 9ea75bb0667e916a3.jpg
http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/gary-harvey-couture-fashion-with-a-conscien ce.html
Floor length dress41 pairs of Levi’s 501.
http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/gary-harvey -couture-fashion-with-a-conscience.html
Livia Firth’s silk dress in 2016 Golden Globe Awards
https://kr.pinterest.com/pin/460774605597114609/
upcycling example
REBECCA EARLY ● A British Fashion and textile designer ● Takes garments with stains or damage and re-invents them, normally overprinting, into high end fashion pieces. ● By personalizing items with craft, a garment is more valuable to the owner as it is unique- and therefore a garment is more likely not to be thrown away. It is a reaction against FAST FASHION and movement towards well made unique pieces of SLOW FASHION http://www.beckyearley.com/about-ba/
Upcycled blouse
http://davidreport.com/200802/textile-design-by-becky-earley/
2. Design to Reduce Chemical impacts.
This strategy is about appropriate material selection and processes for any product to minimize environmental impacts.
Growing raw materials
Harsh chemicals
Finishing&dyeing fabrics
All the production process in the industry involve harsh chemicals from growing raw materials to finishing and dyeing fabrics http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/
Understand whole life cycle of textile and garment we work with.
designer can make decisions about chemical impacts of material and process of whole supply chains.
Seek organically produced materials
https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/organic-cotton-label-round-type-design-56110804.jpg
example • Handmade yoga clothes in England • Make yoga clothes one piece at a time • Using only organic natural materials
http://www.gossypium.co.uk/
Use mechanical technology to create non-chemical decorative surface pattern
https://www.iconfinder.com/icons/240847/cog_element_gear_mechanical_technology_icon
Employing current innovation in ozone technology that replaced use of bleach and consider natural or low impact dyes.
http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/
3.Design to minimize waste
5 ways to minimize waste 1.
Maintaining Aesthetic(That means design with enhanced aesthetic value.)
2. 3.
Design for long-life Avoid producing stuffs that don’t work, that people don’t want
4. 5.
Zero Waste cutting Eliminate the need for almost all of the garment sewing processes(3-D knitting, laser cutting)
Zero waste cutting
Designer minimize production waste. In the process of cutting pattern, factory waste 15% of fabric on the floor in the stage of cutting pattern.
http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/
Zero Waste Cutting
http://www.thestylecatcher.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Zero-Fabric-Waste-Fashion.jpg
Zero waste example
http://www.ecouterre.com/mark-lius-zero-waste-designs-use-every-last-scrap/
Issey Miyake
https://agnautacouture.com/2015/06/22 /issey-miyake-pleats-please-a-poc/
He make clothes using A-POC which is manufacturing methods that uses computer technology to create clothing from a single piece of thread in a single process. A-POC” is an acronym for “A Piece of • Cloth”. https://agnautacouture.com/2015/06/22/issey-miyake-pleats-please-a-poc/
Issey Miyake • In the A-POC process, garments need minimal sewing and finishing. • The A-POC process eliminates the need to use sample fabrics and garments can be made on demand; reducing the need for stockholding.
https://jennylantz.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0078.jpg
4.Design to Reduce Energy and Water Use
As take a huge amount of energy and water to convert raw material into a fiber and then into a fabric, designer reduce energy use.
http://www.freeiconspng.com/free-i mages/electricity-icon-png-4563
https://www.iconfinder.com/icons/171311/cle an_drop_environment_environmental_green_ energy_pipe_pipes_plumbing_running_water_s upply_water_water_delivery_water_drop_wat er_saving_water_supply_icon
At first, designers need to consider all stages of garment to make appropriate material choices.
https://thenounproject.com/term/process/66520/
29,000L/KG of
Choose alternative fibers such as Bamboo ,Hemp(less thirsty crops)
https://thenounproject.com/term/cotton/7449/
Example The Hemp Trading Company(THTC) • UK’s most ethical menswear brand • Produce eco-friendly & politically conscious t-shirts • 100% hemp, carbon-neutral organic cotton, and recycled salvage plastic fibers.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Hk6EmA8kXo/VCCUS8enWZI/AAAAAAAAA30/ilfhfvHr0gE/s250/THTC%2Blo gogreen.jpg
https://shop.thtc.co.uk/
Use nano technology textile treatment that control orders reducing the need for frequent laundering.
http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/
Denim finishing Ozone Technology Designers can consider employing innovations in ozone technology for denim finishing that reduce water use by up to 90%.
http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/
5.Design to Reduce the Need to Consume
This strategy is about making garment last.
The rise of fast fashion has pushed people to buy more and discard more
How could designers use their design skills to reduce consumption?
Examples • Emotionally durable design • Slow design(Rebecca Early) • Consumer participation in co-design and collaborative consumption.
What is Emotionally durable design? reduce consumption and waste by increasing the durability of relationships established between users and products.
example This clothes can be transformed by the user to create a new piece of clothing or interior accessories. Each piece can be put together in a variety of ways allowing the user freedom of design with playful experimentation, different outfits that are emotionally durable and multifunctional." http://www.sweetfancytreat.com/2009/11/nomadic-way.html
6. Develop Systems & Services
Design systems and services which provide environmental benefit by meeting consumers needs with systems & services design.
Examples • Rental & leasing products(designing services to replace products ownership) • Share • Repair services • User-centered methods to design services • Collaborative online
Example of rental service(“Rent The Runway”)
● They offer rental system of unlimited designer looks. ● Consumer can get access a wide variety of outfits and accessories if they pay a monthly subscription fee(139$ a month).
https://www.renttherunway.com/unlimited?nav_location=mainmenu&action=click_unlimit ed&object_type=top_nav
https://www.renttherunway.com/unlimited?nav_location=mainmenu&action=click_unlimit ed&object_type=top_nav
Rules • Browse thousands of designer pieces • Choose 3 pieces to start, and keep them for as long as you want • When you’re ready, exchange 1, 2 or 3 of the items for something new • Free shipping both ways, all items are insured and we handle the dry cleaning • Billing is monthly but you can cancel anytime
Example of repair service • Men’s outdoor clothing business Patagonia • Guarantees its clothes for life • Offers repairs "at a reasonable charge" for normal wear and tear.
https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/725446734726336513/AwZNaoVG.jpg
6.Design Activism
Designers work creatively with the consumers and society. • It is about designing events and communication strategies beyond product design to increase consumer and designer knowledge about the environmental and social impacts of fashion and textiles.
There are many ways designers can active
Write the manifesto
Put it out there with creative and innovative way and gather people who join with you http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/
Organize an event such as DIY workshop to encourage more sustainable fashion consumption.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/1b/80/de/1b80ded46ac309b70212308188d10655.jpg
Invites people to share stories of their favorite old items on its blog, and helps customers swap or recycle clothing.
http://clipart-library.com/clipart/5cRKyd9Ei.htm
â—? They asking people to buy only what they need with explaining the environmental costs of manufacturing the item. â—? It makes people to think twice before they bought one and increase consumer knowledge about the environmental and social impacts of fashion and textiles.
http://www.infopresse.com/article/2014/9/22/patagonia-notre-audace-a-rapporte-d es-dividendes
The others... • Publications • Blogs • Open-source networks • Exhibitions • Conferences • Festivals • Social media
Designers has potential to be change agent to create more sustainable future.
Bibliography "The Green Website for Eco-living, Holidays, Energy, Lifestyles." Green Choices. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb. 2017. Spector, Kaye. "7 Eco-Friendly Fabrics That Will Green Your Wardrobe." EcoWatch. N.p., 27 June 2016. Web. 18 Feb. 2017. Kadolph, Sara J. textiles. Pearson, Boston, 2010. Collier, Billie J., Martin J. Bide, and Phyllis G. Tortora. Understanding Textiles.Pearson/Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, N.J, 2009.
Gordon, Jennifer F., and Colleen Hill. Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present, and Future, Bloomsbury Academic, New York;London;, 2015. Black, Sandy. Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox, Black Dog, London, 2008. Gwilt, Alison, and Timo Rissanen. Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way we make and use Clothes, Earthscan, Washington, DC;London;, 2011. March 4, 2009 | Gail Nickel-Kailing. "Environmental issues in print." Graphic Arts Magazine. N.p., 22 Jan. 2013. Web. 02 Mar. 2017. "Textile printing and the environment." O ECOTEXTILES. N.p., 26 Jan. 2012. Web. 02 Mar. 2017. "Will digital textile printing reduce the environmental impact of fashion?" FESPA. N.p., n.d. Web. 02 Mar. 2017. Johnson, Lam. "Recycle vs Upcycle." Kaki DIY - Article Pages. KakiDIY.com, 12 Oct. 2015. Web. 03 Mar. 2017.
Bibliography Payal Chelani. "What is the difference between Upcycling and Recycling?" What is the difference between Upcycling and Recycling? - Quora. N.p., 12 Feb. 2016. Web. 03 Mar. 2017. Abu Sayed. "Textile Bleaching." Textile Bleaching ~. Textileapex.com, n.d. Web. 03 Mar. 2017. Bloomsbury Visual Arts. "Eco-Chic Design Award 2014 – meet the finalists." An online presence for Bloomsbury Visual Arts. Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 21 Dec. 2015. Web. 01 Mar. 2017. TED. "The TEN." The TEN « Textiles Environment Design. Tedresearch, n.d. Web. 01 Mar. 2017. Hope, Katie. "The clothing firms designing clothes that last forever." BBC News. BBC, 17 Dec. 2015. Web. 04 Mar. 2017. Scanlon, Jessie. "Seamless." Wired. Conde Nast, 01 Apr. 2004. Web. 04 Mar. 2017. Images Global Cellulosic Manmade Fibers http://www.strategyr.com/MarketResearch/Infograhics_Images/MCP-6407/6407.jpg Recycling textiles http://www.martexfiber.com/cms-wfc/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/360-recycling-cropped-490x490.jpg