Helen Goh CHAR KWAY TEOW

Mum was the real chef in our family. Not only did she cook multiple delectable courses for dinner every night, but each dish would be selected carefully according to the season, how each of us was feeling and the particular energetic properties (yin and yang) of the foods. For the hyperactive Goh clan, Char Kway Teow was deemed “too heaty” or yang. But we loved it so much that Dad defiantly took it upon himself to master the dish. He would cook it every fortnight or so, announcing his intention daringly in front of Mum (who would look on disapprovingly). On the day, he would spend the morning shopping for bouncy fishcake and prawns, pungent garlic chives and fresh rice noodles, then slicing and chopping them meticulously and laying them out on the bench while we drooled with anticipation. It was pure theatre, Dad duelling with the wok hei or breath of the wok – taming it just enough to leave the noodles with the dish’s distinctively charred taste. Scooping up the slippery wide ribbons onto a large serving plate, he’d bring out seven pairs of chopsticks. Even Mum could not resist.

2 tbsp lard or vegetable oil

2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

10 large prawns, peeled

100g Chinese fishcake, thinly sliced

400g fresh rice-flour noodles

(kway teow)

½ tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

60ml dark soy sauce

30ml light soy sauce

50ml chicken stock

2 large eggs

¼ tsp ground white pepper

150g beansprouts

40g Chinese chives (also known as flat chives, garlic chives or flowering chives), cut into 5cm lengths

Heat lard or oil in a wok over medium-high heat. When the fat starts to shimmer, add the garlic and fry for about 10 seconds, or until it just begins to take on some colour. Add the prawns and fishcake and cook for 30 seconds, then add the noodles, sugar and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Toss gently with a spatula until the noodles soften – about 2 minutes.

Add the dark soy, light soy and chicken stock, and continue to stir-fry for a minute more. Make a well in the centre by pushing all the noodles to the edges of the wok, then crack the eggs into the well. Break the yolks lightly with the spatula, then sprinkle with the remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt and the pepper. Fold the noodles over the eggs, covering them entirely, then scatter the bean sprouts and chives on top.

Cook, undisturbed for 15 seconds, then, using a folding action to avoid breaking up the noodles too much, gently stir-fry for a couple of minutes until the sprouts and chives just wilt. A distinct character of this dish is a slightly charred taste, so don’t be afraid to crank the heat up so the noodles really get the ‘breath’ of the wok. Serve onto two plates, with sambal oelek on the side.