Quovadis brochure by Harpreet Singh

Personal Learning Adventures in the Indian Subcontinent

Cover photography: Clare Arni Photography: Clare Arni, Manoj Vasudevan. S Anwar, Ashikur Rahman, Harpreet Singh, santosh Wadghule Design: S M BrandMuni Consulting Private Limited

Personal Learning Adventures in the Indian Subcontinent

"Before any more time passes we both want to thank you for your exceptional service - having traveled quite a bit, you stand out as the best travel agent with whom we have ever worked. We will be recommending you to anyone interested in planning a trip to India and hopefully we will be able to see more of your fascinating country in the near future. Again, thank you for your personal kindness and sensitivity to our needs. We would be glad to give our highest recommendation to anyone who is considering planning a trip to India. All our best"

- Mark and Jana Tuschman

Contents

Quo vadis Itineraries

12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40

Introduction to the North Journey to the Golden temple

Quo vadis EXCLUSIVEs

Deep in the Dragon Kingdom

44 46 48 50

Ladakh - Indus Valley and Nubra Valley Cultures of the Ancient Western Himalayas Tale of Two Rivers Desert Citadels of Northern Rajasthan Kebabs and Curries Treasures of the Deep South The Sacred River and The Grand Trunk Road Southern Discovery

Wildlife and Birds of Gujarat Forests of Central India

Ajanta, Ellora and Gujarat The Deccan

Secrets of Rajasthan Temples of Southern Karnataka and Tamil Nadu

The Ganges Valley from Ashoka to the British Raj Lands of the River Ganges

The Palace Life Wild and Beautiful India 06 Welcome Letter Discovering Gujarat: Land of the Rainbow

08 Travelling with Quo Vadis

The Trinity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Nepal, India and Sri Lanka

14 Indian History 18 Indian Culture 22 Indian Art and Architecture 26 The Food Trail in India 30 Textile Traditions of India 34 Living Religion 38 Seeds of Tranquility 52 Hotels 53 Armchair Travel

54 Fact File 5

Travel excites us. It is an opportunity for adventure and

Above all, we believe that every traveller and every journey is

discovery. People, nature, places, sights, colours and food

unique, and that service is the ultimate luxury.

make the experience. The Indian subcontinent has a richness of culture and

Welcome to your personal learning adventures in the Indian subcontinent.

history, the traditional and the unusual, the quotidian and the extraordinary that is unmatched in terms of scale, depth and contrasts. Our unique itineraries have enabled discerning travellers to experience both the familiar and the uncharted. With this in mind, we have created an innumerable variety of custom-designed tours, though they will never be quite enough. Quo Vadis Travel was established in 2008. As new as we

Reet Hazarika

are, our antecedents are well established. The team that

Managing Director

drives Quo Vadis has more than a century of collective experience. They are representative of the land, well versed with every aspect of it and know the expressways and the back roads. The sample itineraries presented in this brochure are just a few ideas of the limitless possibilities. Our program of ‘Quo Vadis Exclusives’ are specialised group tours, anchored by some of the world’s best known scholars whose life’s work was based in most of the areas visited on these tours.

Why visit the subcontinent? The Indian subcontinent offers a panorama ranging from the ancient to the modern, vistas that range from the grand to the simple. India has immense geographical diversity. The Himalayan mountain range in the north forms an imposing natural barrier, the Sunderbans fed by both river and sea in the east, a potpourri of dry and wet regions in the south, desert country in the west and forests, plump rivers and fertile land in the central plains - not

“

to mention the ecological hotspots of the northeast and an attractive coastline. This vast geographical spread also means a wide variety of climate conditions making India a year-round destination. Added to this, centuries of multicultural influence and creative assimilation; and the reasons to visit the subcontinent become quite endless. They include – adventure, archaeology, bird watching, botany, culinary, culture, festivals, folklore, history, honeymoons, markets, nature, people, performing arts, rivers, textiles, trains, treks, villages, wellness and wildlife. To add to the stellar list of reasons to visit is the fact that the subcontinent is actually five countries: India, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka and the Maldives. Multi-country, multi-destination and multi-dimensional itineraries is certainly an alluring prospect for the avid traveller.

Why travel with Quo Vadis

Thank you once again for a wonderful – and wonderfully arranged – tour of India. It is hard not to just make a list of superlatives and I am struggling for alternatives to ‘magical’. It is hard to pick out one thing from another as the best that we saw because it was all so varied in terms of sights, people, history and landscapes...... so I shall return for another helping as soon as possible. Meanwhile, thank you to the Quo Vadis team for all your thoughtful care. -Shervie Price

It could take a lifetime of travel to unravel the unbounded scale and mystique of India. Our experience enables us to plan unusual and focused travel in consultation with our clients, many of whom are repeat travellers and have shared most valuable insights. Venturing beyond the well known, our tours encounter the deep and remote realms of the Indian subcontinent. We at Quo Vadis constantly endeavor to bring you itineraries that bring alive the various compelling facets of the subcontinent. Bespoke itineraries across the entire subcontinent Our itineraries are tailor-made for you. We consider every traveller and every journey unique. We pride ourselves in our ability to listen and to understand travellers’ needs; to then plan a customized journey accordingly. Our knowledge is comprehensive and up-

to-date, enabling you to enjoy places and experiences which are often not provided by other tour companies. The itineraries are created by special interest, geographical areas, seasons or duration, all aimed at fulfilling and exceeding all your expectations. We can plan your travel in India, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka and the Maldives. Devotion to detail Quo Vadis has a reputation for meticulous planning, flexibility and attention to detail. The team at Quo Vadis has over a century of collective expertise, exercised with responsibility, reliability and transparency. You will enjoy unobtrusive attention and caring from the conception of a tour till its completion while our constantly updated, tried and tested processes and checklists ensure the smooth progress of your holiday. Also, you will receive substantial pre-departure information that will 9

prepare you fully for the tour. On the road Our drivers and guides are people who share our commitment to a good travel experience. The handpicked guides are passionate, well informed and sincere in sharing their insight with you. The drivers are efficient and safety is supreme. We use classic high calibre tour vehicles offering visitors relaxed and anxietyfree journeys. Moreover, vehicles are fitted with ice-boxes with complimentary water and soft drinks while travellers are on the road. All this ensures unmatched quality of service and a seamless travel experience throughout. Accommodation India today has a range of hotels, lodges and camps - from luxury to classics, to the simple and delightful Apart from the large hotel chains like the Taj and Oberoi groups there are smaller groups with distinctive hotels and characterful stand-alone ones. The hotels are thoughtfully chosen to enhance your travel experience. At Quo Vadis special attention is given to food and stay and we work only with trusted international standard service providers at every step of the itinerary. Flight and train reservations The subcontinent is well connected by air and train services. Quo Vadis offers commercial flight and train reservations as a part of its package of services. 24 hours contact You will be provided with a 24 hours contact during your holiday with us to attend to any of your needs, all as part of our effort to provide prompt and personal service. Travel insurance Quo Vadis provides comprehensive travel insurance. Private charters There is nothing like the luxury of private air travel. You can set your own timetable, save time on the road and land at places not usually serviced by commercial flights. Quo Vadis regularly handles charter flights for our time-pressed VIP clients. The aircrafts include

the Challenger 604, Gulfstream 1V, Gulfstream 200 and Citation XLS. The Quo Vadis touch Quo Vadis has an excellent rapport with historians, artists, writers, musicians and cultural activists from various fields such as indology, anthropology, wildlife conservation, birding, cuisine, arts, architecture and folklore. We frequently bring them in to share their insights with you. We secure private appointments; you are welcomed into homes and private museums and enjoy exclusive site visits. From time to time our experts also lead small, intimate group tours that our travellers cherish for years to come. www.quovadis.in Do contact us for any of your requirements. We are at hand to provide you any information that you need for your travel to the subcontinent. We let you focus on ‘having new eyes’ to soak in the marvelous sights and stories by taking care of the minutest details of your travel needs.

“

Carol and I would like to thank you both so much, we have had a fantastic holiday, it all worked so well, everybody was so warm, welcoming, and helpful. We have enjoyed every minute, have no criticism at all, can’t think how it could possibly be improved, and we will be very happy to recommend you and your company to others. Do please make sure your whole team know how much we both enjoyed it, and how much we appreciated everything they did – you have a great team, every single person seemed focused on helping us towards a great holiday – perhaps your enthusiasm is very infectious! -Ross & Carol

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

Introduction to the North A tour that is generally considered suitable for the first time traveller to India reveals her ancient and medieval faces and encounters the modern in a medley of contrasts and colours. Begin in Mumbai, the financial capital and home to Bollywood, rising from the shores of the Arabian Sea before studying the ethereal caves of Ajanta and Ellora, the latter bejewelled by the unbelievable Kailasanatha temple. Udaipur and Jaipur, with their emblematic fortresses and palaces epitomize the spirit of Rajasthan. View the Taj Mahal before ending in Delhi, the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital which retains the aura of the times gone by.

Taragarh Shimla

AmriTsar

Chandigarh Delhi Agra

Jaipur

Udaipur

Aurangabad

Mumbai

Journey to the Golden temple

Introduction to the North Journey to the Golden Temple

An unusual side of northern India - away from the typical routes and well-known sights - are the states of Himachal Pradesh and Punjab. Much of this tour covers the lower reaches of the Western Himalayas and over the rivers of the Punjab. From Chandigarh, Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first contemporary-looking city after Independence, travel by narrow gauge mountain railway to Shimla, erstwhile summer capital of the British Raj, then into the beautiful Kangra valley with its lush fields of wheat and rice and bounteous orchards (also, Dharamsala can easily be visited from Taragarh). The finale: the sacred frontier town of Amritsar, the spiritual capital of the Sikh community, crowned by the sublime Golden Temple. Day 1: Arrive in Chandigarh | Day 2: Train to Shimla | Days 3 & 4: Explore Shimla | Day 5: Drive to Taragarh | Days 6 & 7: Explore Taragarh | Day 8: Drive to Amritsar | Day 9: Explore Amritsar | Day 10: Depart from Amritsar

INDIAN HISTORY The sheer size of India precludes a single history, a single classical age or a single ruling power. What we have instead are multiple histories, several classical ages, kings and kingdoms, and diverse foreign influences that came by both land and sea.

The Guptas, of the fourth century AD represented another milestone, particularly in Indian culture, when the country presented the world with ‘zero’ and the game of chess among others. Fa – Hsien, a Chinese pilgrim, extols the virtues of their rule.

The recorded history of the subcontinent begins with the 5000-year old Indus Valley civilization. The evidence of this ancient urban civilization, with perhaps the world’s first planned cities – impressive, grid-like street plans and two storey homes complete with kitchens and a drainage system lies primarily in today’s Afghanistan and Pakistan, with some sites in the modern nation-state of India.

The ebb and fall of history in south India was different. Iron Age Megalithic burial sites excavated in the southern state of Tamilnadu authenticate that Tamils are one of the last surviving classical civilizations in the world.

The first foreign influx was the Aryan invasion of nomadic tribes from Central Asia, which began in about 1800 BC. They brought with them Sanskrit, the language of classical learning and the priestly class, the Vedas, sacrificial ritual and reverence for the cow. The Vedic Age that followed left a huge corpus of sacred oral traditions passed on by mnemonic techniques, forming the core sources of the literary epics of India, the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. The Aryans evolved a new type of social organization called varnasrama dharma or the caste system constituted by - the Brahman (priest), Kshatriya (warrior), Vaishya (merchant) and Sudra (cultivator)- that prevails even today. At the dawn of the Christian era, close on the heels of Persian and Greek invasions of northwest India, emerged the first large empire, built by the illustrious Mauryan kings - of whom Ashoka the Great (268 BC - 232 BC) was indeed the greatest. A great moral and righteous figure, the turning point in his life was the Pyrrhic victory over a region called Kalinga whereupon he turned to Buddhism and propounded a more humane governance.

What makes Tamil unique is its uniterrupted, two millennia old literary heritage starting with the Tamil poems of the Sangam period composed in the third century BC. The ancient Tamil kingdoms of Chera, Chola and Pandya created a unique style of architecture which can be witnessed even today. The Pallavas joined this trinity in the seventh century to create the magnificence of Mamallapuram and Kanchipuram. The ninth century saw the revival of the Chola dynasty often referred to as the classical period in the south due to the impressive political, economic, cultural and artistic development of the region at this time. The Cholas were great ship builders and they are known for their naval expeditions into Sri Lanka and southeast Asia. Thanjavur served as the principal capital and later Gangaikondacholapuram. Magnificent temples at both these sites testify to their might and resources and contribution to Tamil culture. Meanwhile one of the most profound impacts on the emerging Indian nation came with the arrival of Islam. The first Muslims to reach India were Arab traders, who landed on the west coast as early as the seventh century. The political influence of Islam in India was, however, consolidated only later in 1206 when Qutb al-Din Aibak established the Slave dynasty and inaugurated a Muslim ascendancy that was to last, through

a succession of sultanates, for over six hundred years. Babur, a descendant of Timur and Genghis Khan occupied power in Delhi in 1526 signaling the beginning of the Mughal Empire that saw six key rulers before it petered out in the mid-18th century. The Mughals introduced Persian influences in art, poetry, music and architecture. The greatest of the Mughal rulers was Akbar, whose contribution was the expansion and consolidation of the Mughal empire, a great administrative structure combined with an idealistic and inspiring pursuit of harmony and tolerance. Meanwhile, the Europeans already had a presence in India prior to the establishment of the Mughal Empire. Vasco da Gama had landed on India’s southwestern coast in 1498 and the Portuguese had begun to establish modern settlements in Goa soon after. Vasco da Gama’s pioneering voyage acted as a catalyst and The East India company was formed in Britain in 1600 and granted the right to trade in India by Emperor Jahangir in 1619. The gradual dissolution and end of the Mughal Empire and its successor states and its replacement by British domination began in the mid-18th century. Subsequently, the Indian nationalist movement was sparked off by the great uprising of 1857 and took definite direction from Mahatma Gandhi, who led the first satyagraha against the British in 1919. The freedom struggle saw several vicissitudes before India gained full independence from British colonial powers in 1947. Independent India’s six decade journey to emerge as the largest multi-party democracy in the world and an economic powerhouse is the latest chapter in its long history.

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Bhutan Itineraries

Deep in the Dragon Kingdom The ultimate in Himalayan high country, the Kingdom of Bhutan is a remote and landlocked mountain realm. Towering, snowcapped peaks, magnificent prime forests, breathtaking river valleys, exquisite flora and fauna, indelible Buddhist traditions and a people whose wellbeing is equated with Gross National Happiness make Bhutan a favourite destination for today’s traveller. We make our way there in the wake of adventurers, scholars and mystics who explored the ‘abode of the gods’ in distant times. From the gateway at Paro, crucible of Bhutan’s early history to the cultural heartland of Bumthang at the junction of three valleys, Bhutan captivates. Day 1: Arrive in Paro and drive to Thimphu | Day 2: Explore Thimphu | Day 3: Drive to Gangtey | Day 4: Explore Gangtey | Day 5: Drive to Bumthang (en route Trongsa) | Days 6 & 7: Explore Bumthang | Day 8: Drive to Punakha | Day 9: Explore Punakha & Wangdiphodrang | Day 10: Drive to Paro | Day 11: Explore Paro | Day 12: Excursion to Ha | Day 13: Depart from Paro

Deep in the Dragon Kingdom

Punakha

ThimpHu PARO

bumthang Gangtey

INDIAN CULTURE Indian culture represents both continuity and change simultaneously. While its core and potency remains the same for nearly 5000 years, its practices and traditions have undergone many a metamorphosis; every 500 years it takes on a distinctly new avatar. A version that was in consonance with the spirit of the times, while at the same time retaining the wellspring of its organic roots. Being one of the oldest living civilizations of the world, India realised the virtue of inclusiveness very early. Assimilating and accumulating from every influence that came her way, Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture emerged as an eclectic polyphonous music. A fine example of this constantly mutating and reconfiguring in order to keep pace with time is Hinduism itself. Hinduism was neither created by a single person nor was it the creation of a single century. Modern Hinduism is the product of nearly 1000 years of assimilating the beliefs of migrant Aryans and the folk practices of the locals, of soaking up the three major faiths, Shaivism, Vaishnavism and Shakthism, and adopting myriad rituals. All forms of creative expression gained luminescence in this process of continuity with constantly shifting discrete change. Artisans created an impressive array of utensils, objects of daily use and ornamentation, jewellery, icons and decorative objects that were embedded with the specific region and time. Literature and performing arts drew patronage not just from the rulers, but also from a vast section of the population, as the dividing line between a performer and the audience was thin and often breeched and interchanged with ease. A fascinating feature of Indian culture is the fine dividing line between the home and

the world; the interior and the exterior; the personal and the political. This line makes a distinction between crafts and arts, where the former is certainly a domestic domain and the latter a public one. The central elements of both arts and crafts are of course skill and expertise. Their distinguishing feature lies in modes of production; while crafts were created to multiply the same objects, arts try to explore the multiple variations of the expressions. The ways to enter these myriad forms are through a system of classifications, segmentations and organization of narratives based on their geographical locations. For instance, the first broad category in music is: Hindustani for north Indian musical tradition and Carnatic for south Indian music. The further differentiation in music as classical, folk, popular and fusion is to create a fluid dividing line that can be creatively transgressed by any gifted artist to create one more idiom of expression. An interesting element of these cultural practices is that every ancient and historical form has now a modern variant retaining the cardinal value of exploration and erudition. The Jaipur Literary festival is a modern day Sangam; the December music festival in Chennai is a contemporary variation of the famed Indira Vizha, celebrated in the Tamil epic Silappathikaram, the Delhi International Art Festival and Mumbaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kala Ghoda are the new forms of Carnival. The plurality of these impressive expressions draws ones heart towards the inner resonances of mankind, cutting through the barriers created by innumerable languages of the subcontinent and its varied geographical terrains.

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

Ladakh - Indus Valley and Nubra Valley A spectacular high altitude desert in the shadow of the Karakoram Himalaya and major repository of Tibetan Buddhism, Ladakhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s compelling allure lies in its remoteness and mysticism, its starkly beautiful and forbidding terrain, its remarkable people and its place on the legendary Silk Route. Away from everywhere else, it is a land in which Buddhist legacies are preserved: in its sentinel-like monasteries, unfaltering traditions and a people accustomed to staunch self sufficiency and transhumance. For an adventure in Ladakh, fitness is prime in order to unravel the natural and cultural treasures stored amidst its rarefied heights.

LEH

Nubra Valley

Manali Tabo Sarahan nako kalpa Shimla Sangla Chandigarh

Cultures of the Ancient Western Himalayas Little known to travellers in general, the eastern bounds of the state of Himachal Pradesh conceal the geographical areas of scenic Kinnaur, Spiti and Lahaul where forests give way to stark deserts and deep river valleys are complemented by windsculpted rock formations. These are wondrous lands with epic mountain vistas and a cultural intensity bequeathed by waves of Tibetan migration over the centuries. Names like Sangla, Kalpa, Nako and Tabo invite mystery and adventure. Easily isolated by rain and occasional landslides, these rural beauties are sparsely populated. Distant monasteries, precipitously perched on mountainsides, ancient art treasures and remote villages all add to make these hidden lands wonderfully distinctive from their better known Himalayan neighbours.

Ladakh - Indus Valley and Nubra Valley Cultures of the Ancient Western Himalayas

Indian Art and Architecture The organic relationship between Indian art and its architecture calls for an eye that sees, both, in harmony with each other as well as individually. Indian art and architecture traverse a wide domain of space and time, of creation and engineering, of urban town planning and interior organisation of space to accentuate the aesthetic realms of daily living. It covers a time span from the Stone Age to the present. Its sizes range from the colossal to the miniature. Its purposes oscillate between material comfort and spiritual quest. Its materials vary from humble mud and limestone to glittering gold and finely handcrafted marble. The technology deployed in creating these visual splendours, moreover, are a marker of the socio-cultural registry of the subcontinent. The earliest works of art and artefacts which survived the ravages of time, nature and man are the seals from Harappa dating back to the Indus Valley civilization (3300-1300 BC). It is fortunate for historians as well as connoisseurs that at least one major representational work of art of every successive regime and era are available today. The Barhut Yakshi (second century BC), the Asokan Lion Capital (second century BC) and the Gandhara Buddha (the first manifestation of East-West dialogue technically referred to as the Indo-Greek style) are some of the finest artefacts intact in their original form even today. Every faith and regime contributed to the architectural forms and artistic expressions, each bringing in its wake a new nuance, a new inflection, a new meaning and above all a new material to work on. The pre-Hinduism Harappan works highlight the use of terracotta; the Mauryan period is the glorious beginning for working with hard granite; the Ajanta caves stand out for their pigmented frescoes and Mamallapuram for its rock-cut sculptures. Architecturally, south Indian creations have best withstood the test of the time. South Indian architecture was originally conceived of by the early Cholas, and further embellished by the Pandyas, Pallavas and later Cholas and has a distinct feature called the Dravidian style. The Kailasanatha Temple of Kanchipuram, the ‘Big Temple’ at Thanjavur, the magnificent temple at Gangaikondacholapuram and the entire tableau including the rock-cut sculptures and shore temples of Mamallapuram are the finest examples of this tradition. The advent of Islam as the faith of the rulers of the land,

brought in an eclectic look to Indian architecture. Many elements of Turkish, Arabic and Persian styles were amalgamated to create a wonderful genre called IndoIslamic Architecture. The mosque at Ajmer, the Qutb-minar in Delhi built by the Slave Kings, and Allaudin Khilji’s Alai – Darwaza are the some of the gems of pre-Mughal Islamic Architecture. With the establishment of Mughal rule, architecture again shifted direction; where for the first time imported materials and experts were judicially mixed with indigenous materials and local craftsmanship, to create mammoth structures which reflected an empire rather than a meek kingdom. While the Taj Mahal has acquired an iconic status as a symbol of love, the majestic red sandstone forts at Delhi and Agra stand testimony to the engineering expertise and the eye for detail of its designers. The vernacular architecture of India, be it the havelis in Ahmedabad or Rajasthan, the painted mud houses of tribals in Bihar and Orissa or the Chettinad merchant mansions, all have an appeal of their own. Even the colonial structures which followed had to create a new style to ‘fit in’. The Indo-Saracenic buildings which still stand as army embankments, at hill stations, ports, railway stations, churches, educational institutions and government offices are an exemplar proof of the ‘assimilate and internalise’ spirit of the subcontinent. The unifying element of Indian art and its architecture is the signature of a given spatio-temporal reality. Looking at the Somnath Temple will reveal its location in Gujarat; a glimpse of any palace in Jaipur or Jodhpur reveals the indelible imprint of the Rajputs and even a village temple in Tamil Nadu will reveal the powerful influence of the Cholas and Pallavas. This distinctiveness spreads to all art forms. The astonishingly rich variety of painting traditions, broadly categorised into four — the miniature and the portraits created with royal patronage, the works of monks and theologians to further their spiritual quests, the geographically specific folk and tribal arts which seek a local idiom and, finally, the contemporary, which itself is a century old tradition now. From storytelling panels to highly sophisticated abstractions, Indian art straddles every form of articulation and expression.

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

Tale of Two Rivers India’s riverine civilsations have been a source of myths, faith and a way of life. This eclectic tour takes you to Varanasi and Maheshwar on the banks of the River Ganges and River Narmada respectively, introducing you to the rich cultural tapestry of India. Varanasi, also known as Banaras or Kashi, is Hinduism’s most holy city. Elaborate religious ceremonies, full of pomp and splendour and the ebb and flow of life are seen on the ghats, infused with a particular intensity. As one moves inland other facets of this city open up: the weavers patronized by the Mughals and Sarnath, where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. Elegant Maheshwar, where the Narmada is said to ‘cascade, flow and bless’, is famous for its eponymous woven saris. Excursions to Mandu, redolent with an air of melancholic romanticism, complete the central Indian journey. Day 1: Arrive in Varanasi | Days 2 & 3: Explore Varanasi | Day 4: Fly to Indore and drive to Maheshwar | Days 5 & 6: Explore Maheshwar & Mandu | Day 7: Depart from Maheshwar

Desert Citadels of Northern Rajasthan Rajasthan’s predominant natural feature is the Thar Desert, its sheer presence and scale influencing everything within and around it: the environment, life, customs, traditions, folklore and trade from ancient times through to the present. From these desert sands rose the imperial kingdoms of Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur and their fortified strongholds and settlements, regal, romantic and compelling in their aura. Legends, architecture, bazaars and living colour, these towns are the historic heart of the Thar Desert. Mandawa, in the region of Shekhawati on the periphery of the Thar, is a prosperous trading centre since medieval times, the walls of its dwellings enlivened by vivid paintings. The desert experience comes through with a night under the stars and canvas at Manvar and camelback explorations.

Bikaner jaisalmer Manavar

Shekhawati Samode/jaipur

Jodhpur Varanasi

indore Maheshwar

Tale of Two Rivers Desert Citadels of Northern Rajasthan

THE FOOD TRAIL IN INDIA India is a country of diverse religions, crafts and social structures, and food is an essential aspect of its culture. It is formed through continuous tradition, regional ingredients, response to climatic conditions, influences from various cultures and most importantly a balance of ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ elements with reference to the body – similar to yin and yang – contrary to the belief that Indian food is all about heat. Kitchens here are sacred spaces and in some households they also encompass a small worship space for deities. Over the centuries food has gained a symbolic place in life cycle rituals and festivals and ‘aham annam’ is a much quoted line from the ancient Vedas, which simply means ‘I am food’; indicating the profound relationship between life and food. Eating with the fingers (right hand) is Indian etiquette and it helps to bond with the food intimately, to feel its texture and temperature. Starting with vegetables, it is a profusion of riches. The vegetable markets have an overflow of red onions, shiny plump brinjals, ladies’ fingers, drumsticks, string beans and gourds while the smell of green coriander and curry leaves assault your senses daily. Garlic, ginger and turmeric powder infuse Indian curries and stir-fries, as tasty as they are useful, with their medicinal properties. Starting from the north, the Indian flatbread cannot be matched, hot, melt-in-the-mouth parathas, phulkas and tandoori rotis. Soft, right out of the oven, all to be eaten with heavy sauces and curries; butter chicken masala, spicy channa, palak paneer, tadka dal, dal makhani and so on. The opulence of the Mughal era was reflected in their rich cuisine. The traditional repast included biriyani and kebab platters, food decorated with gold and silver leaves, dried fruits, pistachios, almonds and saffron; particular attention is paid to colour and garnishing. The aesthetics of food reached its height in the Mughal kitchens.

From Gujarat you have savoury snacks like dhoklas, khandvis or teplas teamed with a choice of chutneys. In Karnataka you experience ragi and jowar, both forms of highly nutritious millet. In Kolkata, go for hilsa or river fish and expect mustard in your curry. Lightly spiced with panch phoren (five spices) Bengali food is light on the stomach and very tasty. Additionally, Bengal’s confectionery, many of them milkbased sweets like mishti doi, rasagolla and shrikand are not to be missed. Once in the south, that veritable rice bowl, innumerable rice dishes abound. There is the famous kaccha biriyani from Hyderabad, a legacy from the royal households, and good old curd rice, often consumed as a fitting end to a spicy meal. India is a great place for vegetarians, and at the very least, there is always the appeal of creamy, unflavoured made- at- home yoghurt. Idlis, dosais and sambars are staple breakfast dishes here. Spicy rasams, transformed by the British into an Anglo-Indian “mulligatawny”, have to be experienced, as well. Choose from lentil, tomato, lime and just plain rasam without the frills; spectacular, fiery soup-drinks which burn your throat with their peppery heat. Down them nevertheless, as rasam is good for digestion, so the experts say. And if you really like the heat, go to Chettinad or leave the state to go to Andhra, to fully savour the bite of the ubiquitous red chilli. Lastly, street food is so popular in India as to have found a place in its cuisine. Snack off the street at Chowpatty, sitting on the beach with the wind in your hair, savouring every bit of the chaat, and we have tasted yet another aspect of India. Indians have even tried adapting world cuisine - McDonalds in India serves the McAloo Burger. Indian cuisine is a inventive juggernaut that still powers on and on. 27

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

Kebabs and Curries For the gourmet traveller, kebabs epitomise northern India, and curries the south. Thus, to journey from north to south India is to experience a myriad flavours coming alive. Historically distinctive, this tour is a panorama of Indian civilizations, some of whose origins are ancient and others, medieval. This legacy of contrasts is superbly evident; from Delhi to Chennai, we are taken through the northern heartlands, the northwestern spaces, the western and eastern littorals and the hinterlands within, spanning the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal. It is sometimes said that India defies description – ‘Kebabs & Curries’ is testimony to this. Day 1: Arrive in Delhi | Day 2: Explore Delhi | Day 3: Train to Agra | Day 4: Explore Agra | Day 5: Drive to Jaipur | Day 6: Explore Jaipur | Day 7: Fly to Udaipur | Day 8: Explore Udaipur | Day 9: Fly to Mumbai | Day 10: Explore Mumbai | Day 11: Fly to Cochin | Day 12: Explore Cochin | Day13: Drive to Kumarakom | Day 14: Drive to Idukki | Day 15: Explore Idukki | Day 16: Drive to Madurai | Day 17: Explore Madurai | Day18: Fly to Chennai | Day19: Explore Chennai | Day 20: Depart from Chennai

Delhi Agra jaipur

udaipur

Mumbai

Treasures of the Deep South India’s far south is reputed to be the most ‘Indian’ part of the country. Though it shares the rest of the subcontinent’s most general cultural features, it has been the least touched by invaders from Central Asia and neither Islam nor the great empires of the north have had a preponderant influence on the region-which produced its own powerful monarchs. This has resulted in over 2000 years of continuous cultural history, producing some of the oldest literary languages as well as distinctive music, dance, cuisine and, above all, sublime temples which have been spared the iconoclasm of the north. A tour of Tamil Nadu must, in fact, be a journey focused on temples as symbols of architectural style and royal power. Many of these temples are functioning entities and the traveller can participate in their atmosphere of reverence witnessed in crowds of pilgrims.

Tirupati Vellore

Cochin Kumarakom

Chennai Pondicherry

Tranquebar Tanjore Madurai Idukki

Kanyakumari

Kebabs and Curries Treasures of the Deep South

TEXTILE TRADITIONS OF INDIA

India has one of the finest and most ancient textile traditions in the world. The Rig Veda and the Upanishads, ancient Indian texts envisioned the universe as a fabric woven by the gods. Thread and weaving held a hallowed place, linking traditional Indian textiles with divinity. As early as 5000 years ago, the Indus valley inhabitants knew the art of growing cotton and excavations at Harappan sites, revealed a scrap of coarse madder-dyed cloth, which confirmed that the art of dyeing existed centuries ago. The master weavers of India form a rich artisanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guild. Weavers from the different regions of India express themselves variously, specialising in their own, individual art forms. The shaping of Indian textiles has been governed by the climate, the contours of the countryside, the geographical conditions and the minerals and salts present in the waters

running through the land. Blossoming of this art was dependent on royal patronage, religious practices and migratory artisans. The Mughals were one of the biggest patrons of Indian textiles. India is unmatched in her range of textiles even today. Resist dyeing led to ikkats, from Andhra Pradesh and Orissa, patolas from Gujarat, and bandini created by the artisans of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Banaras brocades and Kancheepuram saris, jewels in the crown of Indian textiles are must-haves for weddings and formal occasions. Just as coveted are the marvellous tissue saris of Banaras, with more zari showing than their silk.The heavy brocades are called kinkhabs, and are worth a fortune. Patronage by the Mughal courts encouraged the weavers of Paithan, a village near

Aurangabad, to create masterpieces called Paithani saris. The Kodali Karuppur sari, prized by the royal house in Thanjavur, was crafted for special occasions in the palace. It is a finely woven textile, with a richness of design in weaving and painting. Today the Karuppur sari has become a museum piece due to languished skills.

from the British days ,when large quantities of printed Indian calico was exported. The main printing centres are Sanganer, Bagru, Jaipur, and Barmer. Sophisticated designs have been copied from Persian and Mughal motifs. Chennai, Tirupati and Machilipatnam in south India specialise in vegetable dye Kalamkari prints.

Tribal textiles have a rugged beauty of their own; prominent among these are textiles from the northeast; Nagaland, Manipur and Arunachal Pradesh. Additionally, there is a wide range of embroidered textiles, chikankari from Uttar Pradesh, kasuti from Karnataka, kantha from West Bengal, Toda embroidery from the Nilgiris, phulkari from Punjab and zardozi from Lucknow, Bhopal and some parts of south India like Hyderabad and Chennai.

The delicate fabrics of India moved men to poetry. In the words of the poet, Amir Khusro, who describes the muslins of Daulatabad, â&#x20AC;&#x153;the skin of the moon removed by the executioner star could not be so fine. It is so transparent and light that it looks as if there is no dress at all, but that the wearer has merely smeared the body with pure water.â&#x20AC;?

Exquisite block prints have been in existence

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

The Sacred River and The Grand Trunk Road This is a culturally rich tour with amazing archeological sites, temples, superb museums, sacred spaces and ancient travel routes of the Ganga river overlaid by the newer ones of the British Raj. Amristar

Kolkata and Nalanda were centres of Indian intellectual pursuit separated by a span of 1600 years. Bodhgaya is where Prince Siddartha attained enlightenment and transformed to The Buddha. Reconnect with the Ganga at Varanasi and Allahabad, while at Lucknow, the city of nawabs, explore the syncretic Islamic culture.

haridwar Delhi Lucknow

The Ganga, returns to tantalize our imagination at Haridwar, one of India’s holy cities and at Amritsar you visit the spectacular Golden Temple. Delhi, India’s capital is a remarkable mosaic of the various empires that have ruled India. This incredible journey vividly illuminates the different facets that lead to the creation of the complex Indian identity. Day 1: Arrive in Kolkata | Days 2 & 3: Explore Kolkata | Day 4: Fly to Patna | Day 5: Drive to Nalanda & Rajgir | Day 6: Drive to Bodhgaya | Day 7: Explore Bodhgaya | Day 8: Drive to Varanasi | Day 9: Explore Varanasi | Day 10: Drive to Allahabad | Day 11: Drive to Lucknow | Day 12: Explore Lucknow | Day 13: Fly to Delhi; train to Haridwar | Day 14: Explore Haridwar | Day 15: Train to Amritsar | Day 16: Explore Amritsar | Day 17: Fly to Delhi | Day 18: Explore Delhi | Day 19: Depart from Delhi

Varanasi bodh gaya

KOlkata Ja

Southern Discovery India’s southern peninsula is distinctly different from the better known lands of north India. This in-depth exploration of south India takes you through the Dravidian heartland of Tamil Nadu on the Bay of Bengal to Kerala on the Arabian Sea.

Nalanda-rajgir

Chennai

The Sacred River and The Grand Trunk Road Cochin

Madurai

Southern Discovery

thekkady

Chennai, the first metropolis to be created by the British Empire, with its tradition of famed classical music and dance performances remains the citadel for performing arts in India. Next, explore the striking sculptural achievements at Mamallapuram, a proto-type the Pallava Kings of the seventh - ninth century AD took with them to the far east, as far as Angkor Wat. Madurai was an important cultural and commercial centre famed for its trade with Rome and Greece since 6th century BC. At Madurai’s heart is the magnificent Meenakshi temple with its soaring temple towers that can be seen for miles. Next, climb the Western Ghats to Thekkady, a wildlife reserve in Kerala. What could be better afterwards than driving to the backwaters to relax and cruise. This tour captures the south’s culture as well as nature. Day 1: Arrive in Chennai | Days 2 and 3: Explore Chennai | Day 4: Fly to Madurai | Day 5: Explore Madurai | Day 6: Drive to Thekkady | Day 7: Drive to backwaters | Day 8: Drive to Cochin | Day 9: Depart from Cochin 33

Living Religion India is the birthplace of four major religions of the world – Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism and Sikhism while the religions of Islam and Christianity are also moored in Indian antiquity. Hinduism is India’s most predominant religion, practiced by around 80 per cent of the population. Hinduism differs from other major world religions in many important respects; in that it has no single founder and no fixed canon which embodies its major beliefs and practices. Hinduism evolved in a complex, assimilatory process of the Vedic brahmanism of the Aryans with the multifarious beliefs, practices and folk traditions of the indigenous people. Today, the broad strands of Hinduism are those of Shaivism, Vaishnavism and Shaktism. Most Hindus revere the Vedic texts and some common beliefs are that of reincarnation, karma and salvation that gives freedom from the cycle of repeated birth and death. The most well known and recognized of the Hindu pantheon of gods are Ganesha (elephant headed god), Shiva, Vishnu, Krishna, Rama, Hanuman (the monkey god), Lakshmi and Durga – the last two are female deities. The fourth and fifth centuries BC were a time of worldwide intellectual ferment. It was an age of great thinkers such as Socrates, Plato and Confucius and in India, Buddha and Mahavira, founders of Buddhism and Jainism respectively. These religions are similar in their rejection of ritualistic and caste-based Vedic religion and their emphasis on renunciation and human effort towards achieving salvation. Buddha advocated the middle path rejecting luxury as well as asceticism. He considered desire to be the root cause of all suffering and propounded the eightfold path, steps in righteous living, as a path to salvation. Buddhism later spread and took root in other parts of Asia while it declined in India. Jainism traces its roots to a succession of 24 Jinas. 34

Jinas are ‘those who overcome’ and the last Jina was Mahavira (the great Hero). Jainism advocates deep asceticism and renunciation as the path to salvation. Ahimsa or nonviolence towards humans, animals, insects and even plants is at the core of this faith, a precept that greatly influenced Mahatma Gandhi. The ancient spice route brought Islam to Indian shores soon after prophet Muhammed founded the religion. Arab traders brought it to India’s west coast and it was Islam’s first contact with India. The spread of Islam, however, came with the establishment of Muslim rule in the 13th century followed by the period of the Mughals from 16th century. Adding to the rich tapestry of India’s religious traditions is Sufism, an offshoot of Islam. The Sufi saints advocated a path of love and sacrifice to reach god. The appeal of Sufism cuts across all religions and people

of all persuasions in India throng the dargahs (tombs of Sufi saints). Some say that these borderlines of interaction and the mingling of religious traditions are the most important aspects of India’s unique cultural and religious experience. Guru Nanak founded Sikhism in the 15th century in the northern state of Punjab. Fuelled by a desire to reform society Guru Nanak propounded a religion whose quintessence is equality. The Amrit Sanchar ceremony, akin to baptism, initiates a person into the brotherhood of Sikhism and Sikhs are bound to wear the five k’s or ‘panj kakke’ of faith at all times. These are uncut hair, a small comb, a circular iron bracelet, a special dagger and a special undergarment. In Sikh temples there are no idols, altars or symbols, only the presiding presence of the sacred text. Zoroastrianism was the pre-Islamic religion of Persia. Due to Islamic conquests and

persecution, Zoroastrians fled to other parts of the world and the largest numbers of its followers, known as Parsis, found a home in India. Their faith is considered one of the first monotheistic religions in the world and its concepts of one god, heaven and hell are likely to have influenced the major religions of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Christianity too came to India through the sea. St. Thomas, the apostle of Christ, is said to have landed at Kodungallur, at the southwestern tip of India, in 52 AD and established seven churches. The proselytizing Portuguese and British added to the numbers of Christians, later. Indian philosophical thought has encouraged dialogue, seeking and inclusiveness and this is reflected even today as the pursuit of the truth and god continues in myriad forms in India.

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

The Palace Life India is sometimes referred to as the ‘Land of the Maharajas’. The word inspires images of what is at once fantasy and incredible reality – kings and princes, magnificent palaces, lavish lifestyles, luxury cars, custom made jewellery, hunting and polo. A clutch of India’s renowned palaces have been converted into breathtaking guest residences, recalling the luxury and atmosphere of another era, today. This tour is centered around four palace hotels – Nadesar Palace in Varanasi, Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur and Lake Palace in Udaipur - each of them utterly unique and integral to their locations. Portraits of history, royalty and culture emerge larger than life.

Delhi Jaipur Agra Jodhpur Udaipur

Varanasi Khajuraho Bandhavgarh

Wild and Beautiful India This journey is an interesting blend of historical cities, temples, wildlife, royal Rajasthan and India’s treasure, the Taj Mahal.

The Palace Life Wild and Beautiful India

After exploring India’s capital Delhi, fly to Varanasi. Though Varanasi is well known as Hinduism’s most important city, within its layers are syncretic cultures and musical traditions that have deeply influenced India. Madhya Pradesh is geographically considered the heart of India. It is home to the temples of Khajuraho, whose beauty is undiminished by the ravages of time and the wildlife parks of Panna and Bandhavgarh which preserve the elusive Indian tiger, apart from a wealth of other wildlife, flora and fauna. Forts, palaces, excellent crafts, jewellery and textiles: it is raining riches in Jaipur after which you visit Agra to reflect on the eternal beauty of the Taj. Day 1: Arrive in Delhi | Day 2: Explore Delhi | Day 3: Fly to Varanasi | Day 4: Fly to Khajuraho (Panna) | Day 5: Drive to Bandhavgarh | Days 6 and 7: Explore Bandhavgarh | Day 8: Fly to Jaipur | Day 9: Explore Jaipur | Day 10: Drive to Agra | Day 11: Drive to Delhi and depart from Delhi

Seeds of Tranquility In India the approach to health has always been holistic; ancient wisdom, the power of nature, spiritual insights and self-realisation all lead to an understanding of the human body and its interactions with the environment. Indian medicine was administered and studied by sage, physician and surgeon all rolled into one – and they have left behind codified systems of healing that seek to govern the balance of mind, body and soul. Ayurveda, yoga, siddha, kalari and many other forms of traditional Indian methodologies are now undergoing a resurgence of interest and attention due to two major aspects of their practice; their approach of treating the body as a whole and, importantly, they do not induce any of the unfavourable ‘side effects’ endemic to modern medicine. India has a number of high quality treatment and wellness centres and spas which offer a fabulous combination of ancient healing practices with 21st century comforts and luxury. Ayurveda Ayurveda, meaning ‘knowledge for longevity’, is a comprehensive healing system which helps people live long, healthy and wellbalanced lives. According to ayurveda, each individual has a distinct combination of three energy types called doshas – vata, pitta and kapha which need to be in balance. Treatments include regimes that are designed for an individual based on their body type and medical history. A combination of factors such as lifestyle changes, specialized diet, meditation, toxin elimination, special massages and intake of herbal medicines is used. Since they encompass a thorough process of healing – treatments are not short and hasty. Yoga Yoga integrates the body, the mind and the spirit by balancing emotion, action and intelligence. This is achieved through exercise and postures (yogasannas), controlled breathing (pranayama), meditation, complete relaxation, chanting, diet, lifestyle changes, herbal treatments and other such methods. There are many streams of yoga in practice namely hatha yoga, bhakthi yoga, ashtanga yoga, karma yoga, jnana yoga and more. The overall goal is of achieving a healthy mind and body through particular focus on postures, devotion, body, deeds and knowledge. As with ayurveda, yoga is a way of life and should be done consistently for maximum benefits.

Quo Vadisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; India Itineraries

Discovering Gujarat: Land of the Rainbow From time immemorial Gujarat has seen a succession of foreign influences, through trade, conquest and immigration: the Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, Mughals and British as well as the Parsis. In this in-depth tour of Gujarat we explore its superbly executed Jain, Hindu and Islamic architecture, spread over the state. Ancient archeological sites harking back to the Indus Valley period; the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi; less visited wildlife parks and the ever-enduring tapestry of myths, legends and beliefs that exemplify India - we find all this and more in this special tour. Gujarat also has an enviable crafts tradition, best seen up close, in its villages. Day 1: Arrive in Vadodara | Day 2: Explore Vadodara | Day 3: Drive to Ahmedabad (en route Champaner) | Day 4: Explore Ahmedabad | Day 5: Drive to Dasada | Day 6: Explore Patan & Dasada | Day 7: Drive to Bhuj | Day 8: Explore Bhuj | Day 9: Drive to Jamnagar (en route Dholavira) | Day 10: Drive to Porbandar (en route Dwaraka) | Day 11: Explore Porbandar | Day 12: Drive to Gir (en route Somnath) | Day 13: Explore Gir | Day 14: Drive to Palitana | Day 15: Explore Palitana | Day 16: Depart from Palitana

Pokhara delhi

kathmandu

Agra jaipur

Bhuj

JAMnagar Porbandar Gir

Varanasi

udaipur

Dasada

Ahmedabad Vadodara

Palitana Mumbai

The Trinity – Nepal, India and Sri Lanka Here is a grand and seamless journey that takes you from Nepal in the far north to the isle of Sri Lanka, deep south in the Indian Ocean. Cradled in the Himalayas, Nepal’s culture contains the three religious strands of Hinduism, Buddhism and Shamanism, revealed as you explore Kathmandu and Pokhara. India presents a rich multi-dimensional journey ranging from pious Varanasi and Delhi’s landmark architecture to Agra’s Taj Mahal and Rajasthan’s royal heritage in north India. As you travel south you visit Mumbai, city of incredible contrasts. The lure of spices brought several visitors to the famed Malabar Coast and Cochin reflects these multiple influences while in Chennai the focus is on the apogee of Dravidian sculpture at Mamallapuram.

chennai

Discovering Gujarat: Land of the Rainbow The Trinity – Nepal, India and Sri Lanka

Cochin

colombo

kandy Nuwara Eliya

Galle

Q u o

V a d is

E x cl u sives Erudite Excursions

PAST

Wildlife and Birds of Gujarat with Dr. Divyabhanusinh Chavda This is a unique opportunity to visit the wildlife reserves in the state of Gujarat. The sites visited include the Little Rann of Kutch, the fringes of the Great Rann of Kutch, Marine National Park, Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary, the new birding hotspot at Gosabara Dam in the vicinity of Porbandar and, finally, Gir National Park.

Dr Divyabhanusinh Chavda Dr. Chavda is the President of World Wide Fund for Nature-India, a member of the Cat Specialist Group, Species Survival Commission, World Conservation Union (IUCN) and a member of the National Board for Wildlife, the highest advisory body of the Government of India for conservation of Fauna and Flora. He is also a former Vice-President of Bombay Natural History Society. Divyabhanusinh took his M.Sc. (Econ.) from the University of London and the post doctoral degree of D.Litt. from the University of Pune for his research on the Cheetah in India which is the only work on the cheetahs of Asia. His work on the history of the lions of Asia has been acclaimed internationally. He had a successful career in the Tata Administration Service spanning 33 years with the House of Tatas and was the COO of the Leisure Hotels Division of the Taj Group. He is a resource person for Harvard Museum of Natural History, World Monuments Fund among others, and he travels with their groups when they visit India.

Gujaratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desert and semi-desert habitats, its long coastline and seasonal wetlands stand out in contrast to much of the rest of India. Gir National Park is the redoubt of the Asiatic lion and the endemic Indian wild ass thrives in the Little Rann of Kutch. Antelope and deer populate the scrub jungles and sparse grasslands. Highlighting the refreshing wildlife experience in Gujarat is its birdlife, the mild winters bringing in the multitudes of resident and migratory species into view, particularly raptors, waders and waterfowl. Day 1: Arrive in Mumbai | Day 2: Fly to Ahmedabad, transfer to the Little Rann of Kutch wildlife reserve | Day 3 & 4: Little Rann of Kutch - game viewing and bird watching | Day 5: Drive to the Great Rann of Kutch and Nakhatrana | Day 6 & 7: Great Rann of Kutch - bird watching | Day 8: Drive to Jamnagar | Day 9: Jamnagar - visit Marine National Park, Pirotan Island, Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary | Day 10: Drive to Porbandar; afternoon at Gosabara Dam and surrounds | Day 11: Morning at Gosabara Dam and surrounds; in the afternoon, drive to Gir | Day 12: Gir National Park | Day 13: Gir National Park | Day 14: Drive to Diu; fly to Mumbai | Day 15: Depart from Mumbai

Forests of Central India with Dr. Divyabhanusinh Chavda This tour of Madhya Pradesh, formerly the Central Provinces, explores its fabled forests - that became the stuff of lore in the writings of Kipling, Brander and Champion. The deep woods and grasslands are home to the ultimate predator, the tiger, and several prey species. We visit the iconic Bandhavgarh National Park, the highlands of Satpura National Park and the marvelously scenic Panna National Park, each offering the exciting prospect of sighting tigers, leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, several species of deer and antelope and close to 250 species of resident and migratory birds. Set against the backdrop of conservation and controversies, this tour takes us close to Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s increasingly endangered wildlife. With seasons in transition from spring to summer, the forest undergrowth withering and waterholes turning dry, the conditions for wildlife viewing activities are generally at their best between March and April. Day 1: Arrive in Delhi | Day 2: Fly to Khajuraho; drive to Panna National Park | Days 3 & 4: Panna National Park | Day 5: Drive to Bandhavgarh National Park | Days 6, 7 & 8: Bandhavgarh National Park | Day 9: Drive to Satpura National Park | Days 10, 11 & 12: Satpura National Park | Day 13: Drive to Bhopal; fly to Delhi | Day 14: Depart from Delhi

PAST

Ajanta, Ellora and Gujarat with George Michell We begin at the magnificent caves in Ajanta and Ellora, before travelling onwards to the city of Ahmedabad. Here we visit the old city, famous for its 15th century Islamic buildings and mosques, the Calico Museum and the stepwell at Adalaj. We will travel on to Patan and to Modhera, before visiting Vadodara and Champaner. The trip, which includes three of India’s world heritage sites, ends with a visit to the sacred Jain temples at Palitana.

George Michell George Michell trained originally as an architect in Melbourne, Australia. He went on to study Indian archaeology at the SOAS at the University of London. Dr. Michell has headed various survey projects of historical monuments in India, notably Vijayanagara in southern India of which he is universally acknowledged to be one of the greatest experts. Among his many publications are: The Penguin Guide to the Monuments of India, Vol. One: Buddhist, Hindu, Jain; Royal Palaces of India; Blue Guide Southern India, and Hindu Art and Architecture as well as several books on Hampi. George Michell lives in Goa and visits the Deccan as well as other parts of India very frequently.

The Deccan with George Michell The heart of South India is an elevated plateau known as the Deccan, a hotly contested terrain and the site of several epic battles for power in the Indian subcontinent. The journey traverses the Deccan starting at the elegant town of Maheshwar and concluding at the kingdom of Hampi, the majestic citadel of the Vijayanagara Empire. Maheshwar is an important centre for weaving. Hyderabad is an eclectic mixture of history and culture, swirling with fantastic stories of nawabs whose wealth fuelled a decadent lifestyle. The Chowmahalla Palace in the old city of Hyderabad represents one of the best examples of restoration in India today. Next, at Gulbarga, Bidar and Bijapur we discover long forgotten and beautiful monuments of the Islamic sultanates. A visit to the rock cut caves of Badami; magical in the early morning light is followed by a drive to Aihole and Pattadakal, cradles of Indian temple architecture. Lastly, Hampi meaning ‘city of victory’ was a royal capital of monumental scale and its ruins evoke strong images of its glorious past even today. Day 1: Arrive in Mumbai | Day 2: Fly to Indore; drive to Maheshwar | Day 3: Explore Maheshwar | Day 4: Excursion to Mandu | Day 5: Drive to Indore; fly to Hyderabad | Days 6, 7 and 8: Explore Hyderabad | Day 9: Drive to Gulbarga. (en route Bidar) | Day 10: Explore Gulbarga; drive to Bijapur | Day 11: Explore Bijapur | Day 12: Drive to Badami | Day 13: Excursion to Aihole and Pattadakal | Day 14: Drive to Hospet. Explore Hampi | Day 15: Explore Hampi | Day 16: Drive to Hubli; fly to Mumbai | Day 17: Depart from Mumbai

PAST

Giles Tillotson Giles Tillotson was educated at Trinity College Cambridge and on completing his PhD, was elected a Research Fellow at Peterhouse, Cambridge (1986-90). He taught at SOAS, University of London, where he became Reader in History of Art, and Chair of Art & Archaeology. He is also a Fellow of the Royal Asiatic Society, London. His areas of special expertise include: the history and architecture of the Rajput courts of Rajasthan, and of the Mughal cities of Delhi and Agra; Indian architecture in the period of British rule; and landscape painting in India. He has lectured widely, is the author of numerous books on architecture, history and landscape and lives in India.

Hilary Smith Hilary Smith, a cultural historian, studied in London at the Warburg Institute where she gained her MPhil. She first went to India in the early 80s as a tour manager with Swan Hellenic. A period of study at the SOAS at the University of London, led to her developing an interest in the ancient culture of Central and South Asia. She has been designing and leading off the beaten track tours in South Asia for many years. She has recently brought out a revised edition of Patricia Bakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acclaimed Bradt Guide to Iran. She lives in London.

Secrets of Rajasthan with Giles Tillotson On this journey, we visit some of the lesser-known but fascinating kingdoms of Rajasthan. We see the city palaces of Kota and Bundi, before travelling to Ajmer, famous in India for its sacred shrines and mosque. Drive into the Shekhawati region of northern Rajasthan with its beautiful decorated havelis (merchants homes), before arriving in Bikaner, dominated by a magnificent fort and palace. After staying in the royal tents at Nagaur, where the fort has been restored to its former glory, the tour ends in the city of Jodhpur. Day 1: Arrive in Delhi | Day 2: Train to Kota | Day 3: Explore Kota | Day 4: Drive to Ajmer (en route Bundi) | Day 5: Explore Ajmer and Kishangarh | Day 6: Drive to Nawalgarh | Day 7: Explore Nawalgarh | Day 8: Drive to Bikaner (en route Fatehpur & Ramgarh) | Day 9: Explore Bikaner and Gajner | Day 10: Drive to Nagaur | Day 11: Drive to Jodhpur | Day 12: Explore Jodhpur | Day 13: Return to Delhi | Day 14: Depart from Delhi

Temples of Southern Karnataka And Tamil Nadu with Hilary Smith Hindu temples are the perfect settings to explore the link between divinity, art and architecture. This tour takes us to some of the great temples of southern India. From Bangalore we travel to visit the Hoysala temples at Halebid and Belur. We spend two nights in the city of Mysore, visiting the small and beautiful temple at Somnathpur and Tipu Sultanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fort at Srirangapatanam as well as the royal palace. Proceed to Chennai, where we admire the magnificent Chola bronzes before setting off to Kanchipuram, famous for its silk weaving and its temples. For the last leg of the journey we drive to the rock cut temples at Mamallapuram, the fort at Gingee, the former French colony that is Pondicherry and the temples of Chidambaram, Thanjavur and Madurai. Day 1: Arrive in Bangalore | Day 2: Explore Bangalore | Day 3: Drive to Hassan | Day 4: Explore Halebid, Belur and drive to Mysore | Day 5: Explore Somnathpur | Day 6: Explore Srirangapatanam and Mysore | Day 7: Train to Chennai | Day 8: Explore Chennai - City visit and Chola bronzes | Day 9: Excursion to Kanchipuram - Temples and silk weavers | Day 10: Excursion to Mamallapuram | Day 11: Drive to Pondicherry | Day 12: Drive to Gingee Fort | Day 13: Drive to Chidambaram, Gangaikondacholapuram, Darasuram | Day 14: Drive to Thanjavur | Day 15: Excursion to Tiruchirappalli | Day 16: Drive to Madurai | Day 17: Fly to Bangalore | Day 18: Depart from Bangalore

CURRENT

The Ganges Valley from Ashoka to the British Raj, the 1857 Mutiny and more with Hilary Smith A tour exploring some of the lesser-known sites along the mighty river from where it is first known as Ganges to its holiest reach at Varanasi. October 24th - November 8th 2012

John Fritz John M Fritz trained as an archaeologist at the University of Chicago and has taught at the University of California, Santa Cruz, and State University of New York, Binghamton. He is Adjunct Associate Professor of Anthropology at the University of Pennsylvania and is also a Research Associate at the National Museum of History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. Since 1981 John has co-directed an international team of researchers at Hampi, the ruined medieval Hindu imperial capital in Karnataka. Among his publications is the illustrated guidebook ‘Hampi’ (IBH, Bombay, 2003) and ‘New Light on Hampi’ (Marg, Bombay, 2004).

Lands of the River Ganges with John Fritz & George Michell The Ganges is revered as the life-giving river of the Indian plains and the goddess who resides in Lord Shiva’s matted locks. We trace the path of the Ganges from Lucknow, to lesser known towns deep in West Bengal, culminating at Eastern India’s most important city, Kolkata. At Lucknow explore both the Islamic heritage captured in the grand Imambaras and its poignant British past before driving to Allahabad to witness the grand confluence of rivers Yamuna and the Ganga. Next, Varanasi is an intense experience of spirituality and the deep pragmatism that accompanies Indian religiosity. At Malda and Murshidabad we visit long forgotten mosques and mausoleums redolent with history before exploring Kolkata, finally. February 19th - March 5th 2012 Day 1: Arrive in Delhi | Day 2: Fly to Lucknow | Day 3: Explore Lucknow | Day 4: Train to Allahabad. Explore Allahabad | Day 5: Explore Allahabad. Drive to Varanasi | Day 6: Explore Varanasi | Day 7: Excursion to Zafarabad and Jaunpur | Day 8: Fly to Kolkata. Overnight train to Malda | Day 9: Arrive in Malda. Explore Malda | Day 10: Excursion to Gaur | Day 11: Drive to Murshidabad | Day 12: Explore Murshidabad | Day 13: Train to Kolkata | Days 14 and 15: Explore Kolkata | Day 16: Depart from Kolkata

HOTELS Classics Rambagh Palace. Jaipur Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad

Country Retreats Amanbagh, Ajabgarh

Eclectics

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar

The Imperial, New Delhi

Ashyana Lakhanpal, Goa

The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata

Flameback Lodge, Mudigere in the Western Ghats

Amangalle, Galle

The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai

Glenburn Tea Estate, Darjeeling

Ayisha Manzil, Tellicherry

Wildflower Hall, Mashobra

Kandy House, Kandy

Taj West End, Bangalore

Chambal Safari, Chambal National Park Chhatra Sagar, Nimaj

Neeleshwar Hermitage, Neeleshwar

Miihir Garh, Rohet

House of Mangaldas Girdhardas , Ahmedabad

Ramathra Fort, Ramathra Sarai at Toria, Panna

Raas, Jodhpur

Tea Trails, Nuwara Eliya

Samode Haveli, Jaipur Siolim House, Goa

Tiger Mountain, Pokhara

The Bangala, Karaikudi

Safari Style

Tintagel, Colombo

Aman-I-Khas, Ranthambore National Park

Trident, Gurgaon

Camp Forktail Creek, Corbett National Park Forsythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge, Satpura National Park Samode Safari Lodge, Bandhavgarh National Park Shergarh, Kanha National Park

Earth Brunton Boatyard, Cochin

The High Life

Coconut Lagoon, Kumarakom Kalari Kovilakom, Kollengode

Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra

Maison Perumal, Pondicherry

Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambore National Park The Leela Palace Kempinski, New Delhi The Leela Palace Kempinski, Udaipur 52

Homestays

Marari Beach, Mararikulam

Quality, family managed homestays are now available in several locations.

Swaswara, Gokarna

Spice Village, Periyar National Park

Visalam, Karaikudi

ArmChair Travel Reet Hazarika’s recommended reading list for India

Ancient history, people and places have been brought alive to me by books. Some of the master storytellers like Rabindranath Tagore, Mulk Raj Anand, R K Narayanan, Salman Rushdie, Amitav Ghosh and a host of other voices,provide insight into life in the subcontinent. It gives me immense pleasure to share some of my favourite books with you.

HISTORY India: A History by John Keay (Harper Collins) A wonderful and precise narrative from the days of prehistory to the 1990s Raj: The Making and Unmaking of British India by Lawrence James (St Martin’s Press) Arguably the best book on the days of the Empire India after Gandhi by Ramachandra Guha (HarperCollins) A superb though voluminous commentary on India since Independence in 1947 The Idea of India by Sunil Khilnani (New York: Farrar Strauss Giroux) An original from this writer about what India’s founding fathers envisaged, and what actually happened In Spite of The Gods by Edward Luce (Abacus) A telling commentary about India in the 21st century Curry by Lizzie Collingham (Oxford University Press) Wonderfully written tome on the evolution of cuisine in India, tied in with rich historical anecdotes

Nine Lives: In Search of the Sacred in Modern India by William Dalrymple (Bloomsbury Publishing) Nine people, nine lives. Each one taking a different religious path, each one an unforgettable story. Chasing the Monsoon by Alexander Frater (Picador) A first hand narration of following the Indian monsoon from the beaches of Kerala, through India and across to Bangladesh Travels on my Elephant by Mark Shand (Penguin Books) A story of Shand’s travels through India with his elephant, Tara Abdul’s taxi to Kalighat by Joe Roberts (Profile Books Ltd.) A celebration of Calcutta A Journey in Ladakh: Encounters with Buddhism by Andrew Harvey (Picador) A vivid account of a journey by a young English poet in search of ancient Buddhist traditions in Ladakh. A Mountain in Tibet by Charles Allen (Abacus) The story of Charles Allen’s search for the legendary mountain at the centre of the world culminating in his discovery of the West Tibetan mountain, Kailash.

The Rediscovery of India by Meghnad Desai. (Penguin Books India) A provocative book that looks at India’s East West encounter over the past 500 years and ponders over the eternal question of what holds india together as the world’s largest democracy

Empires of the Indus by Alice Albinia (John Muray)

TRAVELOGUES

NATURAL HISTORY

City Of Djinns by William Dalrymple (Flamingo) A fascinating travelogue on Delhi, the historic capital of India

Birds of India by Kris Kazmierczak (Om Books) The best field guide of its genre, with magnificent plates and species distribution maps

The Age of Kali: Travels and Encounters in India by William Dalrymple (Flamingo) The White Mughal by William Dalrymple The Last Mughal by William Dalrymple

The Hall of a Thousand Columns: Hindustan to Malabar with Ibn Battuta by Tim Mackintosh--Smith (JohnMuray) Almond Eyes Lotus Feet by Sharada Dwivedi and Shalini Devi Holkar (HarperCollins)

Mammals of India by Vivek Menon (Princeton University Press) The author’s very latest

FACT FILE INDIA India is a union of 28 states and seven union territories. It is the second most populated country in the world after China and has 22 officially recognized languages. Visa information Every foreign national must have a visa for entry into India. We recommend that you apply for a six month, multiple entry tourist visa. Please note that your passport must be valid for six months from the date of your return from India. New regulations for tourist visas have recently been put into place by the Indian government. The new regulation applies to tourist visa holders, who will now require a re-entry permit if they are travelling to India within two months after last having left India. This permit is granted only if the need is urgent, and not for business activities, employment etc. and the application should be made to the Indian High Commission/ Embassy/Consulate in your country of residence. Exception: If the visa holder is travelling to multiple countries on the same itinerary, then no permit is required. The visa holder must carry a copy of the itinerary to show to the immigration officer. The itinerary should be followed in the sequence, which is detailed. If re-entry permission is granted, travellers must register at the Foreigners Regional Registration Office (FRRO) within 14 days of arrival in India. For further guidance please consult the website of the Indian High Commission/Embassy in your country of residence. When to travel The climate can broadly be described as tropical, with the exception of the Himalayas. India has four seasons: Winter - from December to February Summer - from March to May Monsoon - from June to August 54

Autumn - September to November Health information Vaccinations are not required when you travel in India. However, anti-malaria medication is strongly recommended. If you have visited or transited a yellow fever area ten days prior to your scheduled trip, a yellow fever inoculation certificate is mandatory. Should you need to consult a doctor, most hotels have doctors on call. We would be happy to assist you in visiting specialists, although appointments are likely to be limited to a certain time of the day. In the unlikely event of hospitalisation, primary and secondary metros offer very high standards of health care. Should you be using prescription medicines, please carry an adequate supply - what you use may not be locally available and substitutes may not be suitable. As a precaution, always drink bottled water. Also, ensure your liquid intake is consistent throughout the day. Lastly, we always recommend that you consult your personal physician prior to any travel. Domestic Airlines Indian cities and towns are now well connected by an extensive network of flights, including budget airlines. The list includes: Air India – www.airindia.in

facilities, at rates generally on par with those quoted by banks. Also, ATM machines are widely available in all cities. Credit cards American Express, MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted. It is sometimes necessary to have cash (rupees) on hand for smaller hotels, lodges and camps. When making a credit card transaction, ensure slips are completed and validated in your presence. Time difference India is five and a half hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Electricity The standard is 220/240 volts. Bring 50 hz. adaptors for electrical gadgets and laptops to protect equipment from voltage fluctuations. Triple and double round pin plugs are very useful, though high-end hotels provide these. If you are travelling off the beaten track a small torch is often useful. Power cuts in India are still frequent and though luxury hotels have backup generators, home stays and budget hotels may not.

SRI LANKA Visa information

Jet Airways – www.jetairways.com

A visa is available on arrival in Sri Lanka, with some exeptions, valid for 30 days from the date of entry. This is free. The application form can be downloaded here: http://www.immigration. gov.lk/html/visa/visit.html

Kingfisher – www.flykingfisher.com

When to travel

Spicejet – www.spicejet.com

Sri Lanka is tropical, with distinct dry and wet seasons. There are two monsoons as follows: the Yala monsoon brings rain to the southwest from May to August, and the Maha monsoon brings rain to the north and east from October to January.

Go Air – www.goair.in Indigo – www.goindigo.in

Currency The units of Indian currency are the rupee and the paisa. (100 paisa=1 rupee) Visitors may bring up to $10,000 US dollars into India. Visitors may not bring or take away any Indian currency. Money should leave only as travellers’ cheques. At all international airports, a bureau de change is available as you leave customs. You can change money here or at the many hotels, which offer foreign exchange

The driest and best seasons in Sri Lanka are from December to March for the west coast, the south coast and the hill country, and from April to September for the ancient cities region and the east coast.

Health information You are strongly advised to contact your own GP or vaccination centre in respect of required vaccinations for Sri Lanka. Check on recommended inoculations as least a month before travel. Malaria tablets, plus inoculations for tetanus, typhoid, hepatitis A and polio are all recommended. Top hotels can advise on reputable local doctors, or private hospitals in the event of serious illness. Pack body-salt replenishment powder in case of diarrhrea and malaria tablets are advised if visiting areas in the east or far north. Currency The unit of Sri Lankan currency is the rupee. (100 Sri Lankan cents = 1 rupee) Time difference Sri Lanka is five and a half hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Electricity As for India.

BHUTAN Visa information All visitors must have an approved visa prior to arrival. We recommend that your visa application be forwarded to us at least three weeks before you arrive. Please note that your passport must be valid for six months from the date of your return. For further information refer website: http://www.kingdomofbhutan.com

The spring season (mid March to mid June) offers warmer temperatures rising to 27 to 29 degrees Celsius. The monsoon arrives in mid June, and at the end of September, autumn suddenly arrives and, is a great time for trekking till November. Health information No vaccinations are currently required for traveling to Bhutan. However it is advisable to have tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A shots. Avoid drinking unboiled water or ice cubes, amoebae and giardiae are quite common. People prone to car sickness should bring appropriate medicine as the winding roads on the mountains have plenty of curves and turns. Anti-malarial medication is also recommended. Time difference Bhutan is six hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Currency The ngultrum is on par with the Indian rupee. 100 Chetrum=1 Ngultrum. Tourists are advised to carry travellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheques, preferably in US dollars. Credit cards are accepted at some high-end venues but there are no ATM machines in Bhutan, so do keep cash reserves on hand. There are, however banks in all major cities. Electricity As for India.

Nepal

Nepal also has monsoon rains in the summer but winter rains are common too. Health information All injections are recommended but none are compulsory with the exception of yellow fever if you have transited through a yellow fever zone. Hepatitis A, typhoid, tetanus and polio inoculations are all recommended and should be up to date. Malaria is present and you should take sprays with you. Time difference Nepal is five hours 45 minutes hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Currency The Nepalese rupee is tied to the Indian rupee. Electricity As for India.

THE MALDIVES Visa information A visa is available upon arrival in The Maldives, valid for 30 days from the date of entry. It is free of charge. When to travel The climate is tropical. The Maldives has two monsoons but temperatures of around 28 degrees Celsius are fairly constant throughout the year. The best time to travel is between November and April.

When to travel

Visa information

Health information

The southern part of Bhutan is tropical and in general the eastern part of the country is warmer than the central valleys. The higher the altitude, the cooler the weather, and with winds blowing off the mountains the valleys can become chilly. The valleys of Punakha, Wangeduephodrang, Mongar, Trashigang and Lhuentse enjoy a semi tropical climate with cool winters, while Paro, Thimpu, Trongsa and Bumthang have a much harsher climate, with summer monsoon rains and winter snowfall.

A tourist visa is available upon arrival at Kathmandu airport. Please bring two passport size photographs with you.

Visitors arriving from yellow fever and cholera infected countries require an international certificate of inoculation against yellow fever and cholera.

Winter in Bhutan (mid November to mid March) is dry and sunny for the most part with temperatures of 16 to 18 degrees Celsius.

When to travel Nepal enjoys a temperate climate, which is highly changeable. The country is divided into three regions. The southerly plains enjoy a sub-tropical climate, where the summers are warm and the winters chilly. Further north in the Mahabharata range of mountains, the climate is still temperate but the winters are cold. In the north in the Himalayas, the climate is alpine with cool summers and extremely cold winters.

Currency The unit of currency is the rufiyaa. Time difference The Maldives is five hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Electricity As for India. 55

India Office Quo Vadis Travel Private Limited 603 Shrikriti, CCGHS, Sector 55, Gurgaon - 122002 Tel: +91 124 428 6943 Fax: +91 124 427 7195 mail@quovadis.in North America Travel Industry Sales Ken Hermer The Crest at Del Mar, 12527 El Camino Real, Suite B San Diego, CA 92130 Tel: +1 858 350 1354 Mob: +1 858 775 5503 Fax: +1 858 259 9903 email: ken@kenhermer.com Unites Kingdom Travel Industry Sales Sarah Mahaffy 173 Fulham Road, London SW3 6JW Tel: +44 020 7581 0769 Mob: +44 7770 385675 email: sarah.mahaffy@quovadis.in 56