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Jordan
Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Jordan
Jordan Map
Jordan’s Top Experiences
Need to Know
What’s New
Month by Month
Itineraries
Red Sea Diving & Snorkelling
Outdoor Activities
Travel with Children
Regions at a Glance
ON THE ROAD
AMMAN Around Amman
Wadi As Seer & Iraq Al Amir
Cave of the Seven Sleepers
JERASH, IRBID & THE JORDAN VALLEY
Jerash & Around
Jerash
Dibeen Forest Reserve
Ajloun
Ajloun Forest Reserve
Irbid & Around
Irbid
Abila (Quwayliba)
Yarmouk Battleground
The Jordan Valley
Mukheiba
Umm Qais (Gadara)
Pella (Taqabat Fahl)
Salt
DEAD SEA HIGHWAY
Dead Sea
Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan
Dead Sea Panoramic Complex
Wadi Zarqa Ma’in
Mujib Biosphere Reserve
Lisan Peninsula
MADABA & THE KING’S HIGHWAY
Central Jordan
Madaba
Mt Nebo
Around Mt Nebo
Mukawir (Machaerus)
Umm Ar Rasas
Wadi Mujib
Ar Rabba
Karak
Khirbet Tannour
Dana
Shobak
PETRA
The Ancient City
Wadi Musa
Siq Al Barid (Little Petra)
AQABA, WADI RUM & THE DESERT HIGHWAY
Aqaba & Around
Aqaba
Red Sea Coast
Wadi Rum & Around
Wadi Rum
Diseh
The Desert Highway
Humaiyma
Ma’an
Qatrana
AZRAQ & THE EASTERN DESERT HIGHWAY
Azraq & Around
Zarqa
Hallabat
Azraq
Qusayr Amra
Qasr Kharana
Eastern Desert Hwy
Umm Al Jimal
Qasr Deir Al Kahf
Safawi
Burqu
UNDERSTAND
History
Amateur Archaeology
Biblical Sites of Jordan
People & Society
Islam
Traditional Crafts
Flavours of Jordan
The Natural Environment
Green Jordan & Ecotourism
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Safe Travel
Women Travellers
Directory A–Z
Accessible Travel
Accommodation
Climate
Customs Regulations
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
Food Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Maps
Money
Opening Hours
Photography
Post
Public Holidays
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Visas
Volunteering
Work
Transport
Getting There & Away
Entering the Country
Air
Land
Getting to/from Jordan’s Borders
Sea
Getting Around
Air
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Hitching
Taxis Tours
Health
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
COVID-19
We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.
Welcome to Jordan
From the first ‘ahlan wa sahlan’ said in welcome, I knew that Jordan was to become a lifelong friend. After going in search of TE Lawrence as a student, I have returned many times to the low-slung tents of the Bedouin, sipped tea with rug-makers and walked in the wake of shepherds. Beautiful though it is, and blessed with a disproportionate number of wonders, Jordan inspires this loyalty primarily because of its spirit of generous optimism – opening its arms to strangers and sharing its wealth with neighbours in need.
Hiking guide, Jordan Trail | JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
By Dr Jenny Walker, Writer
For more, see our writers
1 Jordan’s Top 7
HIKING HIGHLIGHTS
Exciting hikes across sand dunes, through forests and via the lush gorges of seasonally dry riverbeds (wadis) are highlights of a trip to Jordan. The best of these hikes thread through Jordan’s uplands; scattered with wild flowers in spring and scented with herbs after the hot summer, they follow the country’s ancient shepherd trails and lead between Jordan’s principal sites of interest.
Petra
The magic of this intriguing ancient wonder (pictured right) is best sensed not at ground level but by hiking to the site’s mystical ‘high places’.
KONONCHUK ALLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Accessed via ancient stairways, these once-sacred plateaus offer an eagleeye’s view of magnificent desert landscapes.
FOXHALLFILMS/BUDGET TRAVEL ©
Jordan Trail
Tracing the length of the country, this rugged trail (pictured above) is Jordan’s defining trek. It is around 40 days and 650km of hiking and features hilltop vistas along its length.
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
Dana Biosphere Reserve
Dana (pictured above and far left) is remarkable for diversity of landscape. To see how fertile uplands bleed into the desert below, follow Wadi Dana Trail (16km, six hours); descending steeply through Bedouin grazing grounds, it ends at Feynan Ecolodge.
CASE60/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
2 Top Experiences
FRIENDS, ROMANS & COUNTRYMEN
At the crossroads of ancient trade routes, Jordan’s landscape is a history book for those who care to read it. Pillars, pediments and pavements from ancient Rome, Crusader castles crowning remote hilltops, and the pleasure domes of Umayyad structures collectively misnamed as desert ‘castles’ form wistful reminders of the ruins of empire. Follow the dramatic King’s Highway from Madaba to Petra and this rich history unfolds.
Crusader Castles
Located along the King’s Highway, the Crusader strongholds of Karak and Shobak were built by zealous Crusaders in the 12th century.
Karak Castle | LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Eastern Pleasure Domes
Scattered across the rocky plains of eastern Jordan are the so-called ‘desert castles’. Trips from Amman thread between these early Umayyad pleasure palaces, set incongruously against stark desert landscape.
Romans in Amman & Jerash
Centurions once clashed swords in the well-preserved amphitheatres of Amman and Jerash. Listen for their ghosts among the ruins or visit during the annual Jerash Festival for the more modern sounds of Jordan.
‘Desert castle’ of Qasr Al Azraq | JOE WINDSOR-WILLIAMS/LONELY PLANET ©
Roman ruins, Jerash | LKPRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
3 Top Experiences
LEAVING ONLY FOOTPRINTS
The desert may look dead, but it is home to the greatest survivors – both animal and vegetable. The desert comes alive in spring, from early April to late May when a profusion of flowers is flung across Jordan’s northern hills. Lucky visitors may spot the national flower, the black iris, which blooms with deep purple petals in and around Dana Biosphere Reserve.
Azraq Wetland Reserve
Hundreds of bird species use this green oasis (pictured above) during their winter migration. A visit to the bird hides here helps towards the preservation and restoration of the tragically shrinking wetland.
BAIBARS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Shaumari Wildlife Reserve
Brought back from near extinction, oryx (pictured top right) thrive in this fascinating desert reserve. Highlights of a visit include an oryx safari and the opportunity to see other rare breeds, such as goitered gazelles and Persian onagers.
The Feynan Experience
Candlelit suppers, bread-making classes, shepherd-for-a-day opportunities, roof-top stargazing and locally guided bike rides are part of the magic of overnighting at this unique desert ecolodge (pictured above).
TARASIKJO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
4 Top Experiences
VIEWS OF PROMISED LAND
For many, Jordan is more than just a traveller’s destination: it’s a place of Christian pilgrimage. It was at Mt Nebo that Moses supposedly surveyed the Promised Land before dying. Here, and on the east bank of the Jordan River, latter-day pilgrims can follow in the footsteps of former prophets. More than 100 sites in Jordan are mentioned in the Bible and most are accessible as day trips from Madaba.
Baptism at Bethany
The most important biblical site in Jordan, Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (pictured below) is the suggested location of Jesus’ baptism by John. Pilgrims still seek solace in the diminishing waters here.