Harry Edward Tate The Manchester School of Architecture Atelier Common Ground 2019 ‘The Cottonopolis House of Fashion’
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Locating the Site An Industrial Setting The site is located in Manchester’s Northern Quarter on Dale Street. This places it North East of Piccadilly Gardens and East of the Arndale Centre. It is well situated as a place of learning and culture, sitting amongst the increasingly popular venues and shops of the Northern Quarter.
1:500 Site Model Plaster cast massing and base, with jelutong frame and insert. The wooden insert highlights the immediate context of the site by contrasting with the stark white plaster.
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Built on Cotton
The Brief Manchester has a long history within the textiles industry, itself being at the centre of the Industrial Revolution. Therefore it follows that Manchester is an ideal location to host the development of a new museum dedicated to textiles and British fashion in the industrial Northern Quarter, more suitably known as Cottonopolis. The museum will serve primarily to showcase British talent within the world of fashion. On the global stage Britain is a considerable contributor to fashion design, but within the country itself this is largely London centric. As such the museum will create a Northern outpost to make this design more accessible. Whilst hosting talent from across Britain, the museum provides a key opportunity to exhibit and highlight work of local designers in Manchester, be it artisans or new graduates. In this sense the museum should celebrate both British and local design in fashion and textiles, educating the public in the process. Just as important as contemporary design and innovations, the museum will also educate about the past, highlighting the history of Manchester and the role it has played within the textiles world.
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Housing the Collection 5. Printed Media To complement the garments and textiles, the museum will also include examples of fashion photography, illustrative work and magazines. 1. Workshop The museum will host a workshop in which local creative can work, design and make. In turn, the act of making itself becomes a point of interest and education. The workshop is supported by a corresponding gallery space which displays the work created in house as a means of championing local talent. 4. Historical Artefacts In an effort to highlight the importance of Manchester’s history, the museum will include a permanent collection featuring artefacts and relics from the industrial era. Such items may include looms and other weaving equipment. 2. Garments and Articles of Clothing
3. Textiles
The primary objects of the collection, the museum will house and exhibit garments. Contemporary work will seek to demonstrate current British talent from both established and emerging designers. Alongside this, historical pieces will provide a narrative of British heritage through the lens of fashion design.
Alongside clothing, the museum will exhibit textiles highlighting print work, weaves, tapestries and materials. The textiles call for a purpose designed gallery which can accommodate long lengths of fabric. As such the museum will include a vertical hanging gallery to house textiles of up to 10m in length.
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Finding Form
1:500 Massing Models Hand cut and finished jelutong and mahogany.
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These models serve as an initial exploration of form. At 1:500 they don’t allow for much detail, and are instead suited towards large bold moves. With this in mind, this set of models explore ideas relating to pairings, scaled elements, extrusions, geometry and silhouette. Collectively they attempt to bring something new to the Dale Street elevation, be it a development or complete abstraction of the warehouse typology.
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Applying Programme
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1. Entrance 2. Reception 3. Cafeteria 4. Kitchen 5. Loading Bay 6. Storage 7. Escape Stairs 8. Service Riser
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9. Office 10. Workshop 11. Historic Gallery 12. Gallery 1 13. Hanging Gallery
1. Entrance 2. Historic Gallery 3. Cafeteria 4. Kitchen 5. Loading Bay 6. Service Riser 7. Escape Stairs 8. Lift
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9. Portrait Gallery 10. Gallery 1 11. Gallery 2 12. Hanging Gallery
1. Entrance 2. Cafeteria 3. Kitchen 4. Storage 5. Service Riser 6. Loading Bay 7. Escape Stairs 8. Lifts
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9. Hanging Gallery 10. Historic Gallery 11. Workshop 12. Gallery 1 13. Gallery 2
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Massing Iteration
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1. Entrance 2. Cafeteria 3. Kitchen 4. Loading Bay 5. Escape Stairs 6. Lift 7. Service Riser 8. Hanging Gallery
9. Historic Gallery 10. Gallery 1 11. Office 12. Workshop
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1. Entrance 2. Cafeteria 3. Kitchen 4. Office 5. Loading Bay 6. Service Riser 7. Escape Stairs 8. Lift
9. Gallery 1 10. Hanging Gallery 11. Gallery 2 12. Workshop 13. Balcony
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Clothing and Architecture
The Space Between This model explores the idea of the pockets of space that form underneath the surface of clothing, in between the body. Historical dresses are exaggerated examples of this, with elaborate structuring giving way to voluminous silhouettes. This idea is expressed within the model as a series of voids encapsulated beneath an exterior membrane.
Body Membrane Void
1:200 Concept Model Hand cut mahogany with laser cut acrylic inserts.
Under Tension This concept applies tension to the membrane. Within the model, a fabric element is stretched around a massing, where the two interact, creating points of protrusion and tension. This concept mirrors a sculptural body constrained and wrapped within a sheet. 1:200 Concept Model Hand cut mahogany, steel lengths, fabric, with plaster cast and jelutong base.
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Tight and Loose
Traversing the Void Clothes are at times restraining and loose. Buttons, pleats, elastic, zips all tighten garments around the body, pinching it in places. In the case of a shirt, the collar and cuffs may appear tight whilst the rest of the garment remains loose and baggy. This principle is expressed architecturally as a fluctuating void. This sees spaces which soar dramatically high, then immediately fall and constrict around the user before opening back up again. The above section presents this idea as a continuous journey through a void which is ever changing, creating a series of spaces that sit in contrast to one another.
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Sculpting the Interior 1:200 Internal Massing Model Mixed wood scraps with plaster cast and jelutong base. This model experiments with internal divisions, laying out the building programme as series of stacked blocks. The blocks, and thus programme, were shaped and arranged during the construction of the model forcing quick decision making to produce an initial draft of space. 1. Historic Gallery 2. Core 3. Storage 4. Entrance 5. Kitchen 6. Cafeteria 7. Workshop
8. Maker’s Gallery 9. Toilets 10. Offices 11. Education Study 12. Large Gallery 13. Medium Gallery 14. Small Gallery
1:50 Internal Massing Model Hand cut mahogany and jelutong with frosted acrylic.
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Adding Detail Using the 1:200 internal massing model as a guide, detail can be added to begin developing the simple block masses. The pair of models to the left capture a portion of the basement and ground floor. They have been scaled up and detailed using steps, balustrades and doorways. In doing so the space becomes richer, suggesting atmosphere, circulation, occupation and the sense of a greater building.
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Space in Focus
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1:100 Internal Model Laser cut stained plywood and acrylic, with jelutong base.
1. Main Entrance 2. Lift 3. Historic Gallery 4. Cafeteria 5. Services Room 6. Fire Escape 7. Workshop 8. Maker’s Gallery
Refined Spaces This model builds upon the block massing of the 1:200 interior model, adding smaller details throughout. Arches, columns and steps give a greater impression of the building and the spatial sequences contained within it. To further demonstrate this detail, key spaces within the model are removable and highlighted in a contrasting material.
9. Toilets 10. Education Study 11. Large Gallery 12. Medium Gallery 13. Small Gallery 14. Storage 15. Kitchen 16. Office
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Sequences and Connections 1. Maker’s Gallery and Circulating Space.
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Plotting a Journey Circulation and space are carefully woven together within the building. Key spaces are intersected and linked by a singular path, forming a sequence. Defined by dramatic spatial changes and a route that twists both horizontally and vertically, the building seeks to build anticipation, and heighten the user experience, likening the circulation to a journey. 1:50 Interior Model Hand cut jelutong. The above model shots capture a sequence of spaces encountered during the journey through the building. They demonstrate changing volume, mass, lighting and atmosphere.
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Dressing and Structuring
A Matter of Contrasts The facade is decorated with a mixture of brickwork and terracotta tiling. The two sit in contrast to highlight the interior space behind. In the case of the tiling, the corresponding interior exists as a loose void. Or rather the space between clothing (facade) and body (internal massing).
Loaded Arches An ode to many industrial landmarks throughout the city, the lower portion of the building utilises arches. Whilst mediating changes in volume and creating spatial richness, these arches also serve as primary structure.
1:500 Facade Concept Model Hand cut mahogany with jelutong inlay. Building on the facade concept, this model displays the idea of contrasting materials across the facade. This takes the form of a band which wraps around the building, mirroring the void space that sits behind inside. Pre Cast Slabs Light frame works can be used to create large open gallery spaces. Pre cast concrete slabs can then be inserted into this structure to combine floor and ceiling finishes. On the underside, shaped recesses can allow for services and lighting, or simply be decorative elements.
1:50 Sectional and Facade Model Hand cut jelutong and mahogany, wooden dowels, laser etched plywood, with plaster cast elements.
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Approaching Structure
1:100 Structural Model Laser cut acrylic, MDF and plywood, with jelutong base. This model is constructed in three parts. These consist of a lower base, upper floor plates and the outer framework. Contrasting materials serve to highlight these different parts, each indicative of a different part of the structure.
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Two Approaches The structure is conceived as two systems. The lower portion of the building utilises load bearing concrete. Cast in situ, this allows for the creation of the many archways and monolithic stairways. Above this, the upper portion of the building utilises a steel frame structure which is more appropriate for the flat planar floor plates and the regular geometry. This follows traditional warehouse construction with the building becoming increasingly lighter towards the top.
Pattern, Texture and Perforation
1:100 Facade Model, in Context Laser cut MDF and cork inserted into structural model.
1:100 Facade Model, in Context Laser cut MDF and cork inserted into structural model.
1:100 Facade Model, in Context Laser cut cork inserted into structural model.
Applying materials to the facade concept, this first iteration contrasts concrete with perforated brick and weathered steel. This material palette was chosen for density, texture, context and weathering to build an industrial surface.
The placement of brick and steel are switched in this iteration in order. In doing so the perforated screen becomes irregular, taking advantage of steel as a sheet material. In this instance the perforations are no longer restricted by the geometry of brickwork so the pattern become free.
The material palette is streamlined by removing steel. In doing so the importance of pattern and texture becomes greater with these elements allowing contrast within a single material. As such the brickwork becomes recessed, raised and perforated to create a varied surface.
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Tapestry of Brick
1:20 Materiality Study Models Plaster elements, collaged, with jelutong framing. This set of models serve as further exploration into pattern, texture and perforation through closer examination of brick bonds. Increasing the scale of these models allowed for the required detail. When arranged together they begin to suggest the richness of space that can be achieved through brickwork. Changes in openings, pattern and relief allow for varied finishes which can be applied to interior and exterior to achieve contrasts and individual character of space.
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Embellished Facade
Perforate The upper portion of the building utilises a perforated brick screen. Appropriately this limits light entrance into the gallery spaces that sit behind, protecting potentially valuable and sensitive artefacts on display.
Arched The central portion of the facade sits in contrast to the dense perforated screen above and the cold concrete base below. Intricate brick bonds including herringbone patterning and large arched windows give the facade a unique character amongst the buildings of Dale Street. The larger windows are reflective of the ‘loose’ open space behind and allow light to filter into the atrium. 1:100 Facade Model, in Context Laser cut and engraved MDF, laser cut acrylic, with tracing paper. Proposed facade design testing approach to pattern, relief, texture and opening. The ever changing patterns within the brickwork, punctuated by openings and divided by piers, can be seen to reflect a piece of fabric, woven, pleated and embellished with embroidery. In turn the materiality of the brick, alongside arch and pier motifs also serve to root the building within the industrial context of the site and greater city.
Base The lower concrete portion of the building exists as a large solid base for the brickwork above. A series of arched windows penetrate this block and allow a relationship with the street that hints at the inner workings of the museum.
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An Identity
Museum Logo The museum logo presents a distinct shape which mirrors the internal void and corresponding band of windows on the primary elevation.
In Context Advertising on City Wide Buses
Ticket Stubs
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Public Wayfaring
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Axonometric in Context
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Plan in Context
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1. Main Entrance 2. Information Desk 3. Lift 4. Escape Stairs 5. Service Riser 6. Fire Escape Exit 7. Loading Bay 8. Kitchen 9. Cafeteria
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Plans
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1. Lift 2. Escape Stairs 3. Service Riser 4. Services Room 5. Storage 6. Historic Gallery
7. Workshop 8. Open Gallery 9. Meeting Room 10. Office 11. Cubicle 12. Disabled Access Cubicle
13. Study Room 14. Hanging Gallery 15. Large Gallery 16. Medium Gallery 17. Small Gallery
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Primary Elevation in Context
1:200 South West Elevation in Context 1m
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Secondary Elevation in Context
1:200 South East Elevation in Context 1m
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Secondary Section in Context
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1. Historic Gallery 2. Storage 3. Main Entrance 4. Information Desk 5. Kitchen 6. Workshop 7. Open Gallery 8. Cubicle 9. Study Room 10. Large Gallery 11. Medium Gallery 12. Small Gallery 13. Hanging Gallery
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1. Terracotta Tiling 2. Primary Steel Beam 3. Secondary Steel Beam 4. Double Glazing 5. Pulley Winch 6. Perforated Brick Screen 7. ANCON Masonry Support Rail 8. Hanging Textile Artefact 9. Installation Scaffolding 10. Pre-cast Concrete Floor Slab
1:20 Floor to Wall Junction Detail 100mm
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1. Terracotta Tiling 2. Primary Steel Beam 4. Double Glazing 6. Perforated Brick Screen 7. ANCON Masonry Support Rail 10. Pre-cast Concrete Floor Slab 11. Damp Proof Membrane 12. Cavity 13. Brick Veneer with Screed 14. Steel Tile Bracket 15. Rigid Insulation
Surface Detail
Facade Surface: Brick Bonding, Reflief, Opening and Perforation
Gallery Surface: Brick Bonding, Pattern, Geometry, Material Contrasts
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Approach, Interior and Atmosphere
Building Approach from Dale Street
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Relics of the Industrial Revolution on Display in the Historic Gallery
Garment by Craig Green on display in the Open Gallery
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