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The Artisanal Table
A Renaissance at Picholine
drawing back the curtain
Reigning in Spain
a culinary expedition
An Entertaining Match
Cheese & Beer
Happy Goats
make great cheese
Plus: A bouquet of perfect pairings from the wine cellar
®
We insist on Trinitario cocoa beans. And they must be grown organically, ensuring absolutely nothing gets in the way of their intense flavor. As for our almonds, they are only to be roasted whole with their skins on, adding extra richness and depth. Nuts? Maybe a little. greenandblacks.com
All trademarks are owned by Green & Black’s Chocolate Limited. ©2008 Green & Black’s Chocolate Limited.
contents
The Artisanal Table
in this issue
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Setting a new tone with a menu that returns to its Mediterranean roots.
“Mr. Spain,” Gerry Dawes, takes Terrance Brennan on a “Maniac’s Eating Trip.”
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Picholine: Renovations and Revisions
In Season: Spring Recipes Mouthwatering dishes inspired by the season’s finest ingredients.
Travel: A Culinary Tour Through Spain
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Pairings: Outdoor Weather Calls for Beer and Cheese Six beers and six cheeses. Terrance Brennan recommends a selection of unique flavor combinations.
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wine: Complementing Spring Dishes Wine Director Jason Miller picks his favorite wines to match Chef Brennan’s dishes.
Purveyor Profile: Vermont Butter and Cheese Up Close Caring for animals the right way results in happy goats and spectacular cheese.
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N e w s & N ot e s
c h e f ta l k s
Except for the place
D ear F riends ,
settings, every facet
As we approach spring, the season of growth and
The menu at Artisanal also was enhanced this
of Picholine’s interior
renewal, I’ve been reflecting on how those two ideas
year, with a new section devoted entirely to steak.
have been so important to our restaurants in the
My vision for the restaurant continues to develop,
design has been altered.
last year. We’ve seen growth and renewal in both
and in the coming months we will look to expand
From the moment
Picholine and Artisanal, and the process has helped
into other cities. Each Artisanal will feature its own
guests enter through
us visualize the future of these restaurants while
cheese cave, and cheeses we serve will be governed by
grounding each firmly in our original intentions for
what is locally available. Like the New York flagship,
them.
which serves over 160 wines by the glass, flights of
wood doors, the
wine will continue to be a key element of Artisanal
restaurant’s revitalized
Picholine’s interior was completely renovated into a setting that feels lighter and more modern. The renewal of the dining room then informed the revamping of the menu, which had evolved from
menus, as well as the seasonality of ingredients. It is also my wish to continue to support sustainability by working with local farms, growers, and fisheries.
modern décor is evident. Highlights of
its French-Mediterranean roots, 15 years ago, to a
Spring also brings bountiful green markets and new
formal haute cuisine. I felt strongly about returning
season plantings. Leaving the wild game and truffles
to our roots and so, without losing any familiarity,
behind, I relish the prospect of shopping these
new furnishings,
the menu has returned to the Mediterranean. The
markets and seeking out the local farmers whose
wallpaper, fabrics, color
menu has become more flexible and less structured.
products inspire me. Preparing food that is of the
Dishes are divided into sections titled Preludes, Day
highest quality and raised with passion and integrity
Boats, and The Land, and diners are invited to create
is the greatest gift I can give my guests.
meals according to their appetite and whim. It was
Best regards,
than ever, and I continue to strive for excellence every day. All of that hard work has earned us a coveted two-star Michelin rating, and we still have more goals to achieve. I hope our loyal friends (and new ones as well) will enjoy the restaurant for years to come.
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scheme, artwork, wall sconces, and flooring, schematic and menu.
Picholine with new eyes. Fifteen years after opening our doors, I am more energized and impassioned
the changes include
as well as a new seating
invigorating for me as a creative person to look upon
44
the new hand-carved
Chef Terrance Brennan
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travel
s pa i n
Photography by Gerry Dawes
Reigning in Spain
Blazing through a culinary tour
As with most culinary adventures, for Terrance Brennan it began as an occasional whisper. Then it became a persistent drone. And, finally, a repetitive shout: Spain! Go to Spain! Experience foam, molecular gastronomy, innovation, and invention! Spain is the new France! It was hard to ignore, so when his longtime friend Gerry Dawes suggested a “Maniac’s Eating Trip,” Terrance leapt at the idea. Dawes, often referred to as “Mr. Spain,” is an expert on that country’s food, wine, and culture, and was the ideal person with whom to make the pilgrimage.
In early September, the two arrived in Madrid and began a thrilling nine-day, nonstop food and wine tour that even the most seasoned culinary travelers might find daunting. The first lunch, and one of the most memorable, was at Kaia, located in the small fishing village of Getaria along the Basque coast. The pair ate fresh turbot, grilled over coals in the open air, served with nothing more than olive oil and lemon. For Terrance, the combination of perfectly fresh fish, grilled and brought to the table whole, was one of the finest meals he had during a week of exemplary dining.
“The turbot was plucked out of the water just hours before and then grilled on the bone. For a dish like that, it’s all about quality and simplicity. It was perfect.” Still full, but raring to go the next morning, the two visited the Ordizia market outside of San Sebastián where, fortuitously, they were able to watch an Idiazabal cheese contest judged by chefs whose cumulative Michelin stars Gerry estimates at about 15. A lunch of grilled red peppers and steak with the chef judges preceded a second lunch at Casa Cámara in Pasajes de San Juan, where the two dined on beans with clams and the restaurant’s renowned apple dessert. After a brief respite, they were up and out for dinner, this time at Arzak, where Terrance spoke at length with Juan Mari Arzak, the “father of Spanish culinary invention,” and toured the restaurant’s research laboratory. “The test kitchen was remarkable to me,” said Terrance, “less so for what they were researching than for the absolute luxury that enabled them to do it. Imagine the space, time, and staff that it requires to run a lab—we barely have time to cook in New York!” The following day yielded more culinary highlights.
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First, on the drive from San Sebastián to Madrid, Gerry and Terrance stopped in the Ribera del Duero for a lunch of baby lamb chops grilled over grapevine cuttings accompanied by the wines of Viña Pedrosa. And, while tapas hopping in Madrid that evening, the two made a stop for huevos estrellados (fried eggs broken over fried potatoes) at Lucio, where this dish is a specialty of the house; incidentally, it is featured on the brunch menu at Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro & Wine Bar. Once again, it was the elegant simplicity of these minimally worked ingredients—lamb chops, eggs, and potatoes—that made the dishes shine.
On the plane home, curiosity and appetite sated, Terrance reflected on his journey...
More stops—Córdoba, Sevilla, Ronda, Grazalema, Valencia, Barcelona, Madrid—generated more meals along with more local wines and regional specialties. From the fresh, steamed shellfish in El Puerto de Santa Maria, to the wild chanterelles in Barcelona, the paella in Valencia, and the roast suckling pig in Madrid (eaten at, reputedly, the oldest Spanish restaurant in continual operation), each dish was served with pride by its creator.
Where to Eat: Restaurante Kaia Calle General Arnao, 4 20808 Getaria Tel +34 943 140 500 Restaurante Casa Cámara San Juan, 79 Pasajes de San Juan Tel +34 943 523 699 Los Huevos de Lucio Cava Baja, 30 28005 Madrid Tel +34 913 662 984
Arzak Avenida Alcalde José Elosegui, 273 20015 Donostia San Sebastián Tel +34 943 278 465 www.arzak.es Casa Botín (world’s oldest restaurant) Cuchilleros, 17 Madrid Tel +34 913 664 217 Bar Modesto (Tapas, Sevilla) Cano y Cueto, 5 Sevilla Tel +34 954 416 811
Where to stay:
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Hotel Londres Zubieta, 2 20007 San Sebastián
Hotel Wellington C/ Velázquez, 8 28001 Madrid
Tel +34 943 440 770 www.hlondres.com
Tel +34 915 754 400 www.hotel-wellington.com
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“The whole experience of being in Spain, where cooks take pride not just in their work, but in the provenance of the ingredients they use, was so striking to me. This is how I feel at my own restaurants.”
IO B ED
R FD www.kobricks.com © 2008 Kobricks Coffee Company Inc. All Rights Reserved
800-562-7491
e n t e r ta i n i n g
Beer & Cheese
A Crafty Match ARTISAN BREWS AND CHEESES The warmth of spring is a call for Terrance Brennan to head outdoors and enjoy meals with his family and friends on his patio or a picnic table on the grass. “I’m not yet ready to grill, but I’m ready to enjoy the weather.” Celebrate the flavors of the season, indoors or out, in a unique way by pairing these selected cheeses from Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro & Wine Bar with beer.
Cabecou Feuille with Blanche de Chambly
Tomme D’Alsace with Pinkus Munster Alt
Hoch Ybrig with Chimay Blue
Cabecou Feuille is a French goat’s milk cheese ripened in chestnut leaves and studded with black peppercorns. The Blanche de Chambly is brewed by Unibroue in Quebec and is a Belgian-style Witbier. Witbiers are traditionally brewed with mostly wheat (sometimes some oat) in the grain bill, with spices added (the traditional spices are orange peel and coriander). The fruit and spice notes in both the beer and the cheese complement each other.
Tomme D’Alsace is a cow’s milk cheese from Alsace Lorraine washed in pinot gris. It is meaty and fruity. The Pinkus Munster Alt comes from Munster, Germany, north of Dusseldorf. Alt means old and is thought to refer to the longer aging time of this ale. It is yeasty, malty, and slightly fruity. The Pinkus Alt is also organic. The beer and cheese each complement each other’s fruit notes, and the crispness of the brew refreshes the palate.
Hoch Ybrig is a Swiss cow’s milk cheese from Schwyz, 50 miles east of Zurich. It is nutty and has a sweetness reminiscent of bananas. The Chimay Blue is made by a Trappist monastery in southwestern Belgium. The Blue is the monastery’s Grande Reserve, and is a strong dark ale. It is very fruity, with pronounced fig and raisin notes. Together with the cheese, the beer’s fruitiness is highlighted and the nuttiness of the cheese is brought forward.
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T ah r te i s aa rn t iasla n t aabl l t eable
Hooligan with St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout Hooligan is a washedrind cow’s milk from Connecticut with meaty, buttermilky, and subtle raw cocoa notes. It complements the St. Ambroise, which is a drier stout with coffee and roasted-malt notes.
Doddington with Dogfish Head’s Raison D’Etre
Rogue River Blue with Tripel Karmeliet
Doddington is a British cow’s milk, and a kind of cheddar and gouda mix. It is flaky like a cheddar but has some of the caramel notes of an aged gouda. It is savory with a touch of salt. Raison D’Etre is brewed by Dogfish Head brewery in Milton, Delaware, with green raisins and Belgian yeast. It is quite malty and sweet with a pronounced green raisin note. The sweet maltiness of the beer helps to refresh after the salty strength of the Doddington.
Rogue River Blue is a cow’s milk blue from Oregon, aged in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon leaves that have been soaked in pear brandy. Wonderfully complex and decadent, it is woody, boozy, rich, and fruity, with a well-balanced strength. The Belgian brew Tripel Karmeliet—named Tripels because they use three times the malts of average beers—is very complex, with green raisin, vanilla bean, and pear notes. Karmeliet is strong enough to stand up to the Rogue River, and together the beer and cheese bring out each other’s similar fruit notes.
In Season
Chef and Sommelier Spring Pairings
e n t e r ta i n i n g
wine
Jason Miller, General Manager and Wine Director of Picholine, suggests the following wines to accompany Chef Terrance Brennan’s spring recipes. Each wine, chosen by Jason from Picholine’s impressive 650-label cellar, represents the best in its category. The producers listed are “old school, purists who have a profound understanding of the wine process and manipulate their product as little as possible.”
One of my favorite springtime wines:
Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Morels and Asparagus Gruner Veltliner Sighardt Donabaum “Zornberg” Smaragd Wachau A medium- to full-bodied wine with notes of pineapple and white pepper and a gripping acidity that matches perfectly with asparagus.
Slow-Baked Wild Salmon with Artichokes Barigoule and Parsley Pistou Condrieu “La Petite Cote” Yves Cuilleron A full-bodied wine with intense floral, peach, honeysuckle, and exotic spice flavors.
Grilled Lamb Chop with Rhubarb Compote “Torbido” Cascina Ebreo A powerful and complex wine, this 100 percent nebbiolo delivers a bouquet of ripe fruit on the nose followed by flavors of cinnamon and licorice on the palate. Pairs well with suckling pig, game, and fowl.
Pavlova with Wild Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rosé Reims An elegant Champagne with hints of delicate cherry blossom and red berries.
Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Armand Rousseau 1er Cru “Clos St. Jacques” This is my favorite region on the planet and one of my choice producers. It is the picture of finesse and elegance: silky and velvety, with flavors of black cherry and star anise.
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Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Morels and Asparagus
Slow-Baked Wild Salmon with Artichokes Barigoule and Parsley Pistou
Grilled Lamb Chop with Rhubarb Compote
Pavlova with Wild Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar the artisanal table
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Slow-Baked Wild Salmon with Artichokes Barigoule and Parsley Pistou Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 4 salmon fillets 1 c + 4 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1/2 c peeled, thinly sliced carrot 1/3 c thinly sliced fennel 1/2 c thinly sliced onion 4 whole artichoke hearts, quartered 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed coarse sea salt 1 1/2 c dry white wine 1 1/2 c white chicken stock 4 sprigs thyme 3 bay leaves 1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed 1 tbs fresh lemon juice 2 tbs garlic confit (optional) white pepper in a mill parsley pistou (see recipe)
Method Preheat the oven to 250˚F. Place salmon fillets in a baking dish without crowding. Pour 1/2 cup of olive oil over the top.Transfer to oven for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven, add salt to taste, set aside, and keep warm. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Pour 1/4 cup olive oil into a heavy-bottomed, 4-quart pot and heat over medium heat. Add carrots, fennel, onion, artichokes, crushed garlic, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned. Pour in wine, bring to boil over high, then lower to simmer until reduced by three quarters. Pour in stock and add thyme, bay leaves, and lemon. Bring to boil over high. Cover pot and transfer to oven. Cook until a knife pierces easily into center of an artichoke. Remove pot from oven; leave oven on. Use a ladle to skim off one cup of cooking liquid; pour into bowl. Use tongs to pick out and discard lemon slices, bay leaf, and thyme sprigs. Set aside vegetables in their liquid and keep warm. Pour the skimmed cup of cooking liquid into a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan. Add garlic confit (if using) and bring to boil over medium heat. Lower heat and let simmer until reduced by one quarter. Remove from heat. Use an immersion blender while gradually adding the remaining olive oil to the sauce to form a creamy, thick emulsion. (This can also be done in a standing blender.) Add lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the reserved vegetables to an 8-inch saucepan over low heat and cook until hot. Toss vegetables with reserved sauce and gently warm over low heat. To serve, divide the dressed vegetables and sauce among 4 shallow bowls. Place a salmon fillet on top of the vegetables in each bowl. Drizzle parsley pistou (see recipe) over and around the fish. Serve immediately.
Parsley Pistou Makes about 3/4 cup Method: Put the parsley, oil, garlic, and salt in a blender. Pulse and blend for approximately 1 minute until smooth. This pistou can be kept covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
INGREDIENTS 1 c flat-leaf parsley cleaned and picked 2/3 c olive oil 3/4 tsp chopped garlic 1 tsp kosher salt
Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Morels and Asparagus Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 1 c sheep’s milk ricotta 2 tbs finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/2 c + 3 tbs allpurpose flour, plus more for dusting a work surface 1 egg yolk kosher salt pinch ground nutmeg pinch cayenne 8 quarts water 1/4 pound medium asparagus, bottom stems trimmed, peeled from 1 inch below the tip, and cut diagonally into 1 1/2 inch pieces 1 1/2 tbs olive oil (if making the gnocchi recipe in advance) Morel Sauce: 1 cup fresh morels (2 to 2 1/2 ounces) larger ones cut in half 4 cups warm water 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 tablespoons finely diced shallots kosher salt 1/2 cup white chicken stock 1 1/4cups heavy cream
Pavlova with Wild Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar Serves 4
Method Put the ricotta in a cheesecloth-lined colander and use a rubber spatula to push as much liquid as possible out of the cheese.Then gather up the ends of the cloth and turn them over and over again (as though wringing a towel), tightening its hold on the cheese and squeezing any lingering liquid out of it. Put the ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, flour, egg yolk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, nutmeg and cayenne in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until the mixture comes together into a smooth ball of dough, taking care not to overmix. If the dough feels sticky, work in some more flour. Transfer the dough to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Dust a rimmed baking sheet or cookie sheet lightly with flour. Lightly flour a work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions. Roll 1 portion at a time into a rope-like cylinder, 3/4-inch in diameter, and cut the cylinder into 1-inch pieces. Gently make an indentation with your thumb in 1 side of each piece and gather the pieces in a single layer on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining cylinders, adding more flour to the surface as needed. Cover the gnocchi with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.This will firm them up and help them hold their shape when cooked. Put the morels in a bowl and cover with the warm water. Soak, agitating the mushrooms in the water to release any dirt or grit. Use your hands to lift the mushrooms out of the water, then discard the water. Do this 2 or 3 times, or more if necessary. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat. Add the
shallots and a pinch of salt, and cook until softened by not browned, approximately 2 minutes. Add the morels and cook, stirring, approximately 5 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until reduced by threequarters, approximately 3 minutes. Lower the heat, stir in the cream, and let simmer until reduced by half, approximately 12 minutes.The mixture should have reduced to about 1 1/4 cups and be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Season with salt. Cover and set aside, keeping warm at room temperature. Pour 2 quarts of water into a 3-quart stockpot, add 2 tablespoons of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until al dente, approximately 2 minutes. Drain and transfer the asparagus to the ice water to stop the cooking and preserve the color. Once chilled, drain again. Pour 6 quarts of water into an 8-quart stockpot, add 1 tablespoon of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Add the gnocchi to the boiling water and cook them until they float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the gnocchi to the ice water, and then to a clean, dry bowl. If not serving the gnocchi immediately, toss with the olive oil, cover, and set aside for up to 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. When ready to serve, reheat in boiling water until they rise to the surface. Heat the morel sauce in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the gnocchi and asparagus, and toss to heat and combine the components of the dish. Divide among 4 dinner plates or bowls and serve.
Grilled Lamb Chop with Rhubarb Compote Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
Method
INGREDIENTS
Method
2 c wild strawberries, stems removed
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw four circles, 3-1/2 inches in diameter, on the paper, leaving about 2 inches of space all around each circle.
1/4 c + 1 tbs olive oil
Put 1/4 cup oil, rosemary, lemon slices, and garlic in a large plastic bag. Add the lamb, seal the bag, and shake to coat the chops on both sides with the marinade. Place in refrigerator for up to 6 hours, shaking the bag every hour or so to mix thoroughly. Allow lamb to sit out for 1 hour before cooking.
balsamic vinegar 2 large egg whites, at room temperature 1/2 tsp white vinegar
Put 1 cup of strawberries in a blender and purée until smooth. Sugar may be added to taste.Transfer strawberries to a container and set aside. Preheat the oven to 300˚F. Make the pavlovas: Put egg whites, vinegar, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk on high speed until soft peaks just begin to form. Gently and gradually sprinkle in superfine sugar, and continue to beat on high just until the whites hold their shape.
1/8 tsp fine sea salt 6 tsp superfine sugar 1/2 tsp cornstarch
2 tbs rosemary leaves 1 large lemon, thinly sliced 6 cloves garlic, crushed 12 domestic or Australian lamb chops, 2 – 3 ounces each, trimmed of excess fat
Sift the cornstarch into the egg-white mixture, folding gently with a rubber spatula until all is incorporated and being careful not to deflate the whites by overmixing.
crème Chantilly (see recipe)
Transfer the egg-white mixture into a pastry bag fitted with the plain tip and pipe four rounds, 3-1/2 inches (diameter) by approximately 2-1/2 inches (height), onto the lined cookie sheet, using the drawn circles as your guide, in a spiral with increasingly narrow circles that taper toward the top. Bake for 25 minutes; turn off oven and leave the meringues in oven for another 25 minutes. Remove the sheet from the oven and let meringues, or pavlovas, cool to room temperature. To serve, use a small paring knife to remove a tablespoon-size hole from the top of each pavlova. Spoon some strawberries into the hole, top with crème Chantilly, drizzle aged balsamic vinegar on top, and serve.
Transfer 3 chops to each of 4 plates. Serve with rhubarb compote.
Rhubarb Compote Makes about 3/4 cup INGREDIENTS
Method
1/2 tsp ground allspice, preferably fresh ground
In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the allspice, cardamom, ginger, lemon juice, water, rhubarb, vanilla, sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer until the mixture is dry, approximately 20 minutes.
1/2 tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp grated fresh ginger 1 tsp lemon juice 1/2 c water
Crème Chantilly Makes about 2 cups INGREDIENTS
Method
1 c cold heavy cream
Pour the cream into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Put everything in the bowl and whisk at high speed until soft peaks form. Serve.
2 tsp superfine sugar 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract pinch 14 of salt
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1 c rhubarb, 2-inch dice (from 6 ounces rhubarb, 1 to 2 peeled stalks) 1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seed scraped 1/4 c sugar 1 tsp kosher salt
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In a heavy-bottomed sauté pan, over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil. Remove the chops from the marinade, letting any excess liquid run off. Put the lamb on a plate and season well with salt and pepper. Place the chops in the sauté pan and allow them to cook for about 2 minutes per side to medium rare (a meat thermometer will read 120˚F to 125˚F). Just before serving, give the chops a final turn to briefly reheat.
Cover and refrigerate the marmalade for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.
Happy Goats Make Great Cheese
As a pioneer in the industry, an early proponent of the artisanal process, and an advocate of sustainable,
p r i z e d p u rv e yo r
cheese
responsible farming and organic production, Allison Hooper of Vermont Butter & Cheese is what one might call America’s founding mother of artisanal cheesemaking. On a whim, and with no farming experience, Allison started writing letters to organic farmers in the late ‘70s seeking a hands-on education in working the land. Eventually, her journey took her to the countryside of France, where her love for the European tradition of small-batch artisanal cheesemaking gathered momentum. In 1984 she launched Vermont Butter & Cheese with Bob Reese, a former marketing director of the Vermont Department of Agriculture. Soon after, people who had never experienced the taste of fresh chèvre were immediately awed by her handiwork. “Quality originates at the source,” says Allison, and the source of her goat’s milk cheeses is a herd of intelligent, gentle dairy goats that are never tethered but are free to forage for hay, brush, and pasture plants around the farm. Additional milk is supplied by local farms, where the average herd size is 150 goats and whose farming method aligns
with Vermont Butter & Cheese’s philosophy: A healthy herd, low stress, and good hygiene are an invaluable part of producing high-quality milk. Along with both fresh and aged varieties of goat’s milk cheeses, Allison and Bob use cow’s milk to make crème fraîche, fromage blanc, mascarpone, and quark. All are fashioned in the same spirit of artisanal production in which hands and nature take the place of machines. For their crème fraîche, fresh cream is set aside after milking to let the lactic bacteria take over, enriching and thickening it to delicious results. Their cultured butter is one of the finest in the country, with true cream flavor and only the lightest touch of salt. It would easily hold its own against the best of European butters. Allison Hooper’s and Bob Reese’s dedication to forming their cheese and butter from the grass up, as well as their commitment to hands-on farming practices, makes them true artisans. www.butterandcheese.net
While he loves many of the products from Vermont Butter & Cheese, Terrance Brennan’s current favorite is Bonne Bouche, an aged, ash-ripened cheese with lemony flavors. “Bonne Bouche is a superb example of a great goat cheese in the French style, perfectly balanced without any chalkiness,” says Terrance.
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Vignaioli Selections Proudly Served at Picholine
THE CULT WINES
www.vignaioliamerica.com phone 212.686.3095 fax 212.686.3097
Woodford Reserve: T he Art of Cl a s sic Coc k tail s Classic cocktails are making a big comeback, largely because bartenders – now known as mixologists – have found delicious new ways to serve up old favorites. Take the historic Manhattan for instance. In addition to its widely-debated origin -- some believe it was created for a grand party in New York hosted by descendants of royalty -- its definition is often debated as well. No matter, because it has evolved into an array of full flavored, creative drinks being discovered by a whole new generation.
There is one truth that stands above the fray; the best ingredients make the best cocktails. Full flavored drinks demand a balanced and complex bourbon – and Woodford Reserve fits the bill. Now the experts may write about its “faint aromas of apricot and brown sugar” or its “hints of woody vanilla-tinged spice,” which is all well and good. But what’s most important is that you simply enjoy your Manhattan, or your classic cocktail, or your own unique take on mixology!
Please enjoy Woodford Reserve responsibly. www.woodfordreserve.com Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY © 2008.
Timeless cocktails made modern with Woodford Reserve, gold medal winner of the world’s three most prestigious tasting competitions. The Woodford Manhattan 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1 dash Angostura® bitters 1 dash Peychaud’s® bitters Splash of cherry juice Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a bourbon-infused cherry. The Woodford Mediterranean Manhattan A drink this flavorful calls for a complex bourbon - Woodford Reserve. 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. Tuaca® liqueur 1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup* Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon. * Simple syrup: boil equal parts water and sugar until sugar dissolves. The Woodford French Manhattan Woodford Reserve adds balance to this delicious, refreshing concoction. 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. Chambord® Dash of bitters Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or cherry.
H au t e N ot e s
From the publisher, Haute Notes is about the
discovery of all things innovative and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel.
HAUTEMIXOLOGY
A Woodford Sunset 3 parts lemon/lime soda 1 part Woodford Reserve 1/2 part pure cherry juice In a rocks glass, add ice, Woodford, cherry juice, and top off with lemon/lime soda. It will look just like a beautiful sunset. Enjoy!
HAUTENOTEWORTHY
HAUTEPhoto Michael Harlan Turkell is a freelance photographer and free-time chef who used to cook in restaurants and now photographs the inner workings of kitchens, for his award-winning “Back of the House” project, documenting an unseen version of the lives of chefs and the restaurant world. Michael has been selected for the upcoming 25 Under 25: Up-and-Coming American Photographers, to be published by powerHouse Books in spring 2008. He has received a Photo District News Photo Annual Award and has had work published in an array of magazines and shown in galleries. He currently resides in Brooklyn, New York. His work can be seen at harlanturk.com and at his photo blog, harlanturk.blogspot.com.
HAUTETASTE
Publisher Michael Goldman
Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Managing Editor Christian Kappner Assistant Editor Stephane Henrion Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Contributing Editor Alison Bowers Photo Director Charles Harris Advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com Marketing Director Katherine Payne Photography Michael Harlan Turkell Gerry Dawes
Made to taste.com
Cutting Edge
Launching in summer 2008, MadeToTaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products. Imagine shopping in a chef ’s pantry for food products, kitchen tools and accessories, and cookbooks! MadeToTaste.com also features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and cocktail pairings.
Joel Bukiewicz, aspiring novelist turned artisan, handcrafts professional-grade kitchen cutlery that has sliced its way to cult-level status. His showcase knife is the Prospect 8, which is close to kitchen-accessory perfection: a knife that cuts smoothly and effortlessly on the cutting board, is agile enough to be a versatile kitchen tool, and offers heft and balance at the bolster as well as a fast tip and lightness in the hand. This knife is just begging you to cook with it! cutbrooklyn.com
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Picholine 35 West 64th Street New York, NY 10023 Tel 212.724.8585 picholinenyc.com
Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro & Wine Bar 2 Park Avenue New York, NY 10016 Tel 212.725.8585 artisanalbistro.com
The menu at Picholine showcases “the ferocious commitment to quality and the restless inventiveness of its chef-owner, Terrance Brennan,” stated William Grimes in The New York Times. Featuring the highest quality seasonal ingredients, his French-Mediterranean dishes are original interpretations of classic flavors from France, Spain and Italy.
Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro and Wine Bar showcases the formidable creativity and passion of Chef-Proprietor Terrance Brennan who adds playful twists to classic French bistro dishes.
2008
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The artisanal table
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