CONVI VIO
Fa l l 2 0 0 7
chef michael white : creating taste memories roaming campania chef-style From the vine : discovering a noble grape recipes and cocktails
Dear Friends, As we turned into the gravel driveway of Caseificio Vanullo outside Paestum in the Campania region of Italy, I looked over and noted the expression on Michael White’s face. It was the same as that of my three-year old whenever she walks into the local ice-cream store in New Jersey. He was positively beaming. Immediately, he began a master’s dissertation on the technique of hand-pulling buffalo milk curd to make the mozzarella, how the “azienda,” or producer, uses only milk from its own “buffalo,” and how we now had the fortuitous task of tasting fantastic yoghurts, butters and ice-creams that were also made on the premises and served in their café. Michael and I had already spent a week together in a car, seeking out the best food and wine that Campania had to offer. I was sure that Michael would be a great fit in the kitchens of L’Impero and Alto. His encyclopedic knowledge of the restaurants and cuisines of Italy was staggering and inexhaustible. A typical day traveling the Italian countryside encompassed a visit with a noted winemaker, followed by a seven-course luncheon, then some perusing of the local markets, topped off with a grand eight-course meal. Throughout the trip, Michael would be at the wheel of our rental car, talking a mile a minute about what we had just experienced and attacking the road like Michael Schumacher in the Grand Prix at Imola. Speaking of Imola, Michael worked for years at the stoves of San Domenico under Chef Valentino Marcattilii. It was there that he developed his intense passion for the flavors and culinary sensibilities of Italy. In fact, he even met his wife Giovanna during those years and became, for all intents and purposes, an Italian. I feel very fortunate that Michael has joined us at L’Impero and Alto as Executive Chef and Partner. His contagious exuberance and joyful “Italian” nature are sure to enrich all of our experiences at both restaurants. I hope that you enjoy this issue of Convivio, as it introduces Michael and his vision of L’Impero as a venue to showcase the bright flavors of the South, and Alto as a kitchen that features “Alta Cucina,” or in Michael’s words, “elegant, low-energy cooking,” that captures the philosophy of the noble cuisines of the North.
Good Eating.
Chris Cannon
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Michael White firmly feels the only way to be a true Italian chef is to experience the culture and offerings of the country firsthand. “Taste memory: that is the biggest thing I bring back from my years in Italy, the ability to taste something and know whether or not it’s really supposed to taste that way.”
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the heart of a chef
Michael White: c re at i n g taste m em o rie s
Chef Michael White, the new Executive Chef at L’Impero and Alto, possesses the confidence of a man skilled in his trade and happy in his surroundings. Walking into L’Impero, he throws his arms out and calls the dining room his “living room.” When he announces he really loves what he does, you believe him. After he says his kitchen has soul, you admire him. And as you watch him interact with his waitstaff, addressing them in their respective languages, you appreciate his deference for heritage and beginnings. their own–they just came out of the ground, don’t ruin
“Knowing where you come from is so
small antipasta, then pasta, followed by an
important. Italian chefs are blessed with
entrée. And at dinnertime it’s often much
them!” Of course, “without good technique it doesn’t
the most unbelievable ‘materia prima,’ an
more simple—a portion of meat and a salad,
come together,” White admits. The real magic lies in
innate ability to cook.” White himself has
perhaps.” He fell in love with the products:
the nuances that make each ingredient shine.
always been tremendously respectful of his
“Food is so important to Europeans in
Norwegian heritage, even while growing up
general, and to work with great products like
in a small town in Wisconsin.
fresh fish straight out of the Mediterranean
“My grandparents came from Norway. We
speaks volumes about the culture.”
ate fish balls and rice at holiday times and
Today, Michael White exudes Italian in
started off each day with a typical Norwegian
everything he does. He speaks the language
breakfast, which consists of having a
fluently. He spends as much time as he
toaster on the table and some combination
can there with his family—his wife is from
of sausages. I was lucky enough to grow
Southern Italy.
up eating great food: salmon before it was
are very through and through Italian,” he
popular, and no frozen foods or canned
exclaims. And of course, he cooks like an
vegetables.” Now White alternates between
Italian.
two homes: New York and Italy.
Even in New York, “we
“Thinking like an Italian chef is very difficult
He first headed to Europe when he was barely
to do if you’ve never been there,” White
20, to work with Chef Valentino Marcattilii on
offers candidly. “You need taste memories
and off for seven years at Ristorante San
that come from Italy. Since we don’t work
Domenico in Imola. He also honed his skills
with recipes at Alto and L’Impero, it comes
in the South of France.
down to taste and really getting people to
In Italy, he gained not only culinary insight but
think about the food.”
Sourcing product is fundamental. Every region has those unique little ingredients that make the dishes special, and White is always in search of these. “Take Colatura di alici, from Cetara on the Amalfi coast. Colatura means ‘drippings’—like what drains from a colander. It’s basically an Italian fish sauce made up of clarified
cultural instruction through self-immersion.
At its best, Italian cooking is very simple:
blood and juices from salt anchovies. It’s a salting
He learned how Italians ate: “Pasta portions
80% ingredients, 20% technique. “A dish
agent used to flavor pasta. Years ago, when salt was
aren’t big like in America. Everyone eats a
should allow 3 or 4 ingredients to stand on
expensive, people would use Colatura as a substitute to
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Favorite European city?
flavor dishes. And this is ultimately how you make your
freshly churned butter in their food, sheep’s
food ‘taste’: add a few drops to a spaghetti with olives
milk ricotta and Caciocavallo cheese; and
and chilies and it brings out an amazing roundness.”
as you get to the lower plains towards the
Well-traveled and well-intentioned, White has a clear perspective on the task at hand: the artful direction of
fish.”
L’Impero and Alto’s cuisine. He’s excited. It would be
At Alto, White plans his dishes around the
easy to fall back on his legacy of recipes but White is
notion of using the finest ingredients Italy
continually thinking ahead: “I want to be different. You
and America can provide to achieve ‘alta
can walk into a restaurant in Singapore, Dubai, L.A. or
cucina’ (highly refined cuisine). “This is the
New York and order tuna tartare. I call that ‘you can
kind of food the kings and queens of Italy have
be anywhere food.’ But you won’t find that here. The
eaten and I’ve done this type of cooking for
kitchen is always evolving; we are constantly tasting
years, so it’s a real natural for me.” At Alto,
new things. It makes for a very unique menu at both
he stresses keeping the food very simple
restaurants.”
to make sexy Italian food, like really briny,
He describes L’Impero as “rustic but refined,” implementing full-flavored, bold food in a restrained fashion. “In-your-face-food is very much what Southern Italian cuisine is all about, but rather than overwhelm you with flavors like garlic and chilies, at L’Impero we’re all about balance and doing these flavors upfront.” It’s an ingredient-driven restaurant using old techniques: braising eggplant with anchovies and tomatoes, handmaking macaroni on a wire, crafting orecchiette from
up clams and seasons them with a little olive
finally, dessert. “This is how Italians eat; they hit all categories.” It’s also about keeping an open mind: there are real misconceptions that southern cuisine is all about red sauce. “Our menu pulls not just from Sicily and Calabria but Southern Tuscany down. If you went to the Isle of Ponza, just off the coast between Rome and Naples, braised lentils are very popular. In Campania you get Minestra maritata—braised greens with ham hock and beans. In the mountains they use a lot of
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A German shepherd called Kelly. What’s the one thing you refuse to eat? That’s a hard question—I don’t care for cranberries.
poached with barlocci beans and shavings
Subway.
of a gray mullet Bortaga; or roast guinea hen with cabbage, porcini mushrooms and pancetta scented with rosemary oil. “These dishes hold very light, impact flavors that we treat very simply.”
for chefs worldwide, he practices what
and then le secondo (entrée of fish or meat) before
Any pets growing up?
Moped or subway as preferred mode of transport?
If sticking to your roots is White’s motto
choosing an antipasta (before the pasta), pasta
Squab.
oil, sea salt and lemon juice; Dover sole,
to be the real deal you have to go that extra step.”
experience. Many customers prefer the ‘menu’:
Favorite game bird on a fall menu?
warm seafood salads where he just opens
scratch. “We go to great pains to do this right—because
Dining at L’Impero is to embrace the whole Italian
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sea, they use a lot of olive oil to accompany
Rome, with Paris a close second. To me, Rome is just not as uptight as Paris is—you get what you get. In Rome they don’t put on any airs, it’s just cool.
he preaches. Italian at heart and hearth, nothing’s lost in translation in Chef Michael White’s passionate pursuit of creating simply the best Italian cuisine—simply because what he does comes from within.
Who are crazier drivers: the Italians or New Yorkers? Italians by far! Soccer or football? A tough choice! I would have to say football—the Green Bay Packers— I’m from Wisconsin! Favorite kitchen gadget? The Microplane—one of the great new inventions of the kitchen!
not Lost in Translation
Cultural differences between Europeans and Americans extend deep into their kitchens, encompassing everything from recipe preparation and dining rituals to food presentation. Michael White pays careful consideration to his New York clientele by attentively adopting and adapting Italian-style dishes to the American palate and plate. “We get Italian purveyors here in America to
“It’s actually easier to get a variety of
As dishes tend to be heavier in Italy than Americans
source specific Italian products. This is so
real Italian ingredients in New York than
are used to in their dietary regimens, White adjusts
important because you can’t mimic what’s
in a small town in Italy. If you need a
recipes accordingly.
done in Italy without the right ingredients.”
Caciocavallo from Campania or a Tolecha
But living in New York is definitely a bonus
from Lombardia, it’s simpler to walk down
in terms of getting your hands on just about
to Murray’s Cheese than to source it when
anything.
you’re living in say, Bologna.”
White credits superstar chefs and the
However, applying the same techniques
broth for the eggs, and buzzes Parmesan cheese and
evolution of the Food Network with
he learned in France and America to great
extra virgin oil together with an immersion blender,
the heightened appreciation for food
ingredients allows White to sometimes
instead of heavy cream. “We make lighter fondutas,
stateside.
“New Yorkers go out to dinner regularly, some even nightly. If I served a real Fontina cheese fonduta from Valdosta, I’d literally ‘whack’ my customers with too much richness.” Instead White substitutes hot chicken
“People are really keyed up
work with produce that isn’t always
lighter tomato sauces, because if you always cooked
on food; just look at the proliferation of
inherently Italian. “Take corn for example,
stick-to-your-ribs food, you’d lose the lightness and
television shows and food magazines, and
I incorporate it into our dishes because if
sexiness of Italian cuisine.”
Slow Food organizations like Terra Madre.”
Italians had corn they would definitely put
With the explosion of greenmarkets, White
it into the mix, perhaps sautéing it with a
feels fortunate to have the likes of heirloom
‘Soffritto’ of pancetta, onions and garlic.”
fruits and vegetables at his fingertips right in the city.
Fortress walls in the medieval town of Sant’Agata dè Goti
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travel
G ood company i n
Campania
Kevin Sippel, Michael White and Craig Wallen
Earlier this year, Chef Michael White invited owner Chris Cannon and chefs de cuisine Kevin Sippel (Alto) and Craig Wallen (L’Impero) to Campania in Italy. During the course of their intense stay there, White set up tours of artisanal producers and vineyards with the intention of creating taste memories.
to focus on one region and delve into it. I wanted to
Restaurant pick: Nonna Sceppa
show the guys the hot spots in Campania, have them
“This is break-your-legs food, absolutely delicious! We were eating real fusilli made with tomato
eat ricotta and mozzarella direct from the dairy so they
sauce and ricotta, fried zucchini blossoms filled with buffalo mozzarella with anchovy and basil.
could really taste it.” Taste memories created from real
All these things were amazing.”
“People try to pour too much into trips to Europe. I like
experiences with Italian ingredients: seeing the actual ground they grow in, the hands that pick them, the places that lovingly package them. Vanullo, one of the finest buffalo milk producers, is located in Paestum, where the Greek ruins in Southern Italy are found. “To eat fresh mozzarella there, to tear into it and have milk dripping down your arms, it’s like falling in love for the first time,” Michael reminisces affectionately. And how could you be affected so deeply by the food and not translate that firsthand into those in-between spaces in a recipe? “My guys all know how to cook, they know technique, but ingredients and memories are what I really wanted to instill in them. So many times people put ingredients on a plate with no real knowledge of them. For a kitchen to have soul, you have to eat, sleep, live and die this.” Chef White is particularly excited about Italian wineries that he feels are really going back to basics. “Years ago, Italians started making wines that were palatable to the Americans to break into that market: aging them in wood and trying to make them taste like a California Chardonnay. Enough with those big oaky wines; now they’re going back to more traditional techniques.” Muzzo, a local delicacy, veal muzzle boiled and served sliced with Sorennto lemon
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Mozzarella di B u fa l a One of the highlights of our trip to Campania this past summer was our visit to the Agriturismo Seliano, a working buffalo farm in the province of Paestum just south of Amalfi. The owner, Ettore Belleli, provided us with excellent accommodations, a wonderful tour of the farm and lessons in buffalo husbandry. We also sampled numerous local specialties, including buffalo steaks. The main purpose of our stay, however, was to explore the history and the production of one of the glories of the South of Italy, mozzarella di bufala. “Real” mozzarella is produced from the
the word “mozzare,” which means ‘to
Buying Tips:
milk of the Asian water buffalo, which was
lop off or cut’, and refers to the method of
Mozzarella di bufala is sold in a variety of shapes,
introduced to the Italian Peninsula by the
production by hand. It is only produced in
which include small balls (bocconcini), plump
Goths in the 7th Century. In medieval times,
seven provinces in the center and south of
spheres, and larger braids (treccia). We discovered
the buffalo was primarily used as a draught
Italy: Caserta, Salerno, Benevento, Frosinone,
that the larger the piece of mozzarella, the longer
animal as it was superior to local oxen in
Napoli, Latina and Roma. We observed the
you can expect it to keep, with a maximum shelf-
plowing the compact and watery terrain
process firsthand at the finest producer of
life of one week. It should always appear milky-
found south of Napoli and Roma. However,
mozzarella in all of Italy, Caseificio Vanullo in
white in color with a lightly elastic shell, and should
mozzarella did not gain wide acceptance
Paestum.
ooze pearls of milky whey when cut. Of course,
Vanullo produces only 600 kg. of mozzarella
on the package as it is a product that is strictly
until the late 18th century.
“Mozzarella di bufala campana” should be printed
Real mozzarella di bufala is considered one
per day, all of which is exclusively sold at the
controlled by the DOC Laws of Italy and the EEC.
of the world’s greatest “fresh” cheeses. It
azienda. They also have an excellent café
When serving mozzarella, as with all cheeses, make
is meant to be consumed within 3-5 days
where one can sample ice cream, yoghurt
sure to bring it up to room temperature in order to
of production. The name is derived from
and butter, all made from buffalo milk.
make the most of all its flavors.
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© 2006 Nestlé Waters North America Inc.
At finer restaurants in Paris, London, New York and of course, Milan.
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Stay, Eat and Drink in
Cam pa nia Hotels
Vineyards
Restaurants
In Sant’Agata dè Goti, a wonderful Medieval town inland in Benevento:
Feudi di San Gregorio Aziende Agricole
Modern: Ristorante Papacarbone
Azienda Agricola Mustilli Via Dei Fiori 20 82019 Sant’Agata dè Goti Tel. 39 0823 718142 Email: info@mustilli.com
On the Amalfi Coast in the town of Furore: Hotel Bacco Via G.B. Lama, 9 Furore Amalfi Tel. 39 089 83 03 60 Email: info@baccofurore.it
In Paestum on the Buffalo farm: Azienda Agrituristica Seliano
Località Cerza Grossa 83050 Sorbo Serpico Avellino Tel. 39 0825 986611
Mastroberardino Atripalda Italia 83042 Tel. 39 0825 614111 Email: mastro@mastroberardino.com
Via Rosario Senatore 30, Cava dei Tirreni Tel. 39 089 466441
Traditional: Nonna Sceppa Via Laura 53, Cappacio - Paestum Tel. 39 0828 851064 Email: nsceppa@paestum.com
Viticoltori De Conciliis Località Querce, 1 84060 Prignano, Cilento Email: info@viticoltorideconciliis.it
Marisa Cuomo Via G.B. Lama 14, Furore Tel. 39 089 830348 Email: info@granfuror.com
Via Seliano, Paestum (Salerno) Tel. 39 0828 724544 Email: seliano@agriturismoseliano.it
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recipes
Garganelli con Prosciutto, piselli e Crema
Pa s ta Q u i l l s w i t h S a n D a n i e l e P r o s c i u t t o , p e a s a n d c r e a m Serves 4
In this savory dish, tubular quills, or garganelli, are bathed in a luxurious prosciutto-scented, truffled cream sauce and tossed with peas and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. It’s the perfect pasta for this kind of dish because the ridges capture every last drop of flavor and the short shape complements the creamy sauce. Garganelli originated in the Romagna region of Italy. The name comes from the Latin word “gargala,” meaning trachea or windpipe. While the elongated tubes are similar to penne, the ridges in garganelli are horizontal, not vertical.
I n g r ed i e n t s
1 pound fresh garganelli pasta
1 1/2 c heavy cream 8 oz San Daniele prosciutto, julienned 8 tbs truffle butter 1 c fresh peas 1 tbs white truffle oil, optional kosher salt 1/4 c freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Imported San Daniele prosciutto is lower in salt than most products made in America, so the dishes don’t taste overly salty.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in the pasta, cook until almost al dente, 3 to 4 minutes, then drain. (If using dried pasta, cook for 10 to 11 minutes.) Meanwhile, combine the cream and prosciutto in a heavy saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the peas, truffle butter, if using, and reserved pasta; turn the heat to high and cook until the sauce coats the pasta, shaking the pan vigorously to prevent sticking. Season to taste with salt, add the grated cheese and toss. Serve immediately.
Cooking Pasta If you can’t buy fresh garganelli, substitute with a high-
Many people read on a box of pasta that they
will be overcooked and won’t combine
quality purchased pasta, such as those from Barilla,
should cook it for 11 to 12 minutes to be al
correctly with the sauce.
available at most supermarkets. If garganelli is not
dente. Little do they realize that if pasta is
available, use penne rigate or your favorite short pasta.
drained at that point and put into the sauce, it will easily sit in there for up to 15 minutes before hitting the table. By then, the pasta
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I like to remove pasta 2 to 3 minutes before it’s done, then toss it in the sauce to allow the sauce to soak into the pasta.
Branzino i n A c q u a Pa z z a
S e a B a s s i n “ C r a z y W at e r ” Serves 4
Some Neapolitan fishermen throw their first catch of the day into a little brazier on board their boats, and cook the fish in “crazy water,” or sea water with pepper and spices in it. In my version of this simple summertime fisherman’s stew, I obviously take the dish to the next level by poaching the fish in broth and serving it on garlic-rubbed croutons. I suggest you use fresh tomatoes here, since you want a light, drinkable broth for the fish. Canned tomatoes will make the liquid pulpy. Ask your seafood store to save the bones of non-oily white fish for the stock.
I n g r ed i e n t s
4 tbs extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 cloves garlic, bruised, divided 1 or 2 lbs non-oily fish bones, rinsed or 4 cups shrimp shells
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
4 c peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes
2 tbs tomato paste
1/4 tsp chili pepper flakes kosher salt water
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large deep casserole over medium heat. Add 4 cloves of garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir in the fish bones, onion, and 2 cups of the tomatoes. Reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the bones are very soft. Stir in the tomato paste, chili flakes, and a pinch of salt. Cover with water and simmer for 1 hour longer, then pass through a fine strainer.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 cloves of garlic and cook gently for 2 minutes. Pour the fish broth into the pan, stirring up any browned cooking bits. Then add the remaining tomatoes and sea bass. Poach the fillets for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the shrimp and continue cooking until the fillets are just opaque and the shrimp cooked through, about 6 to 7 minutes total cooking time. Put the crostini in 4 warmed flat soup bowls. Place a fillet on each crostini, divide the shrimp evenly, spoon the shrimp broth over the fish, and serve.
4 7-ounce sea bass fillets
12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 garlic crostini
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The Appellation Of An Oyster These days, the methods for growing and harvesting oysters come close to that of making a great wine, so to speak. The recipe for producing great shellfish has become part art, part science, with a good salt-water splash of Mother Nature. The comparisons to wine only begin with cultivation. To the pleasure and delight of our palates, oysters have become a more refined and defined commodity. There’s even use of a new word: “merroir” (of the sea), a pollution forced Northwest farmers to start raising their until they are 1/2 inch to an inch in size. Then they are derivative from the French term “terroir,” which denotes the own oysters. The Taylors experimented with species from
seeded high in tidelands where they can fatten up without
geographical (of the earth) location of a vine. Each oyster’s other parts of the country, the world even, cultivating them fear of predators. One summer later, when the shells have unique flavor profile is a combination of genetics (species until they started to propagate. By replenishing the once-
hardened, the muscles are strong, and the oysters have
and size) and location. Even more, the same species of
depleted oyster beds, Taylor Shellfish Farms was not only a
some size, they are finally transferred to the beds that they
oyster can vary dramatically in flavor from bay to bay, much
precursor to sustainable farming but expandable farming will grow out on. The result is an oyster that has weathered
like wine that comes from the same grape in two different
too.
vineyards. They all look slightly different with respect to fluting, shape, shell and color, and each picks up specific essences from the estuaries it was grown in. Variables include temperature and salinity of the water, and the
Today, Taylor Shellfish Farms grows more species of oysters commercially from hatchery-produced seed than any other
2-3 growing seasons in peak conditions–and you can really taste sublime nuances of its watery residence. “Having our own hatcheries and tidelands give us better control of
company in the country. They own close to 10,000 acres of the product we choose to grow as well as the quality and tidelands dotted up and down the Washington state coast volume we can maintain.”
abundance and type of flora and minerals they ingest.
line, concentrated heavily in the Puget Sound–where they What’s most important to Jeff Pearson is that the So if there is a Château Pétrus of the shellfish industry, some cultivate half the production for that area. consumer gets a consistent, fresh and delectable product. would say it is Taylor Shellfish Farms, based in Washington. Like any great cellar master, a shellfish farmer leaves little Harvesting heritage counts and that puts Taylor Shellfish to chance. That’s the case with Taylor Shellfish Farms’
So the next time you feast on oysters, take a moment to digest the unique watery path that brought it to you.
Farms a good century ahead of most, with over 100 years’ president, Jeff Pearson, who has it down to a science, from For more information please contact: worth of experience cultivating and collecting oysters. At “seed” (oyster larvae) to full fledged triploid (sexless oyster). Nellie@wtseafoodusa.com the turn of the 20th century, founder J. Y. Waldrip traded In their hi-tech hatcheries, they simulate the optimal searching for gold in the Great Northwest for farming jewels growing environment for the larvae, graduating them to or visit www.taylorshellfish.com of the sea: shellfish. In the 1920s, over-harvesting and floating nurseries where they feast on organic micro-algae
Oyster myths and misconceptions: Why oysters are viewed as an aphrodisiac: Oysters spend 60% of their body fat and energy reproducing during their lifetime. Considering how high that percentage is, it initiated the theory that eating them would increase a person’s sexual desire. Eating oysters only in ‘R” months: This dates back to Roman times when oysters were first being cultivated. The Mediterranean waters in the summer are warm, which encourages oysters to spawn and lose the firmness in their meat. During their reproduction periods, an oyster’s meat becomes milky and soft. However, the water temperature even in May and June in the Northwest and Northeast of the United States is definitely cooler. And with the advent of triploid sterilized oysters, eating them year round is now completely appropriate.
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from the vine
A Agl i a n i c o noble grape Italy is home to two indigenous “noble” red grapes. Nebbiolo is considered by many to be the finest grape in Italy while Aglianico is often overlooked. While it is not my intention to make a case for Aglianico as Italy’s greatest red grape, it is important to gain an appreciation for what it has to offer. In wine-speak, a “noble” wine refers to one that is potentially superior in quality with respect to age-worthiness and structure. Its global colleagues include Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. complex aromatics. In both regions, the Aglianico grape displays high levels of acidity, spiciness, and elevated levels of soft tannins. And wines produced from both areas are obligated to have a garnet “granato” color. In the case of Taurasi, it must be fine garnet, or “granato fino,” and in the case of Aglianico Del Vulture, it must be lively garnet, or “granato vivace.”
Aglianico is steeped in history.
Although found throughout southern Italy,
Pope Paul III’s personal physician (16th
Aglianico thrives in two very distinct areas:
century) noted its “perfume,” describing
Taurasi, a small village in Avellino, Campania
it as “pleasant” and praising its “elevated
(where DOCG wine is produced), and in
nourishing power.” It was at this time that
northern Basilicata, near Venosa (where
Aglianico got its name. Before the 16th
Aglianico Del Vulture DOC is produced).
century, it was referred to as “Ellenico”
Until recently, Taurasi was the only DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in southern Italy. To qualify for this top-tier wine classification, the wine must follow a strict set of rules that include how and where the grapes can be raised, aging (three years with at least one in cask), and a minimum level of alcohol (12%). Samples must be tasted and approved by the Ministry of Agriculture. To put “Riserva” on the label, the wine must be aged for a minimum of four years (18 months in cask) and have 12.5% alcohol.
Aglianico from Taurasi has intense aromatics of dark fruits, soft tannins and crisp acidity. Producers are only obliged to put 85%
However, in 2000, Attilio Scienza, a professor
harvested each year in Italy. This is partly due
of horticulture at the University of Milan,
to the fact that these vineyards are in cool,
found no genetic relationship between
high-altitude areas. This extended time on the
Aglianico into Taurasi, the remainder being approved non-aromatic local grapes. In practice, however, most producers use 100%. Among the best traditional producers in the area, you’ll find Mastroberardino, Terredora and Caggiano. Mastroberardino’s Taurasi
Aglianico and all known Greek grapes.
vine allows the grapes to develop balanced,
Riserva 1968 is one of the greatest red wines ever
or “Ellenica,” suggesting a Greek origin.
Aglianico is one of the last red grapes to be
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producer, whose style involves riper fruit and more oak,
Closer to the coast of Campania in Cilento, Bruno De Conciliis is producing wines that are worthy of mention. These wines are produced
is Feudi di San Gregorio. Feudi di San Gregorio’s Taurasi
outside the areas that define Taurasi and
Montevergine 1999 is a ripe fruit-expressive wine with
Aglianico Del Vulture, but are some of the
approachable tannins that is enjoyable now and will last
best Aglianico-based wines made in Italy.
for decades.
Warm weather, somewhat mitigated by
produced in Italy. The fruit and earth are totally integrated, leaving a crumpled silk impression on the palate with a hint of smoked meat and spicy plum. Another great
In contrast, Aglianico Del Vulture is the only DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) in Basilicata. This region is located in the northern corner of Basilicata, where it converges with Campania and Puglia. The vineyards are primarily located in and around the extinct volcano, Mount Vulture. Wines from this DOC must be 100% Aglianico and have a natural potential alcohol of 11.5%. At 200 to 700 meters, these are some of the coolest vineyards in Italy. In addition to the altitude, the vineyards are shaded, to some degree, by surrounding mountains. This and the volcanic soil not only guarantee crisp acidity, but allow the wines to develop a delicacy and a brighter fruit profile not found in Taurasi. These wines generally don’t age quite as long, but drink well earlier. Some of the better known producers are D’Angelo (rustic and satisfying), Paternoster, Terre degli Sevi/Re Manfredi and Tenuta le Querce (sometimes oaky, but always well made).
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vineyard altitude, and aggressive vineyard management allow for riper, more robust wines than are found inland. “Naima” is the standard-bearer of De Conciliis production. French oak barrel aging allows for sublime integration of tannins and the rich, smoky fruit. Most of the quality-obsessed Aglianico producers now use French oak barrels as opposed to the chestnut barrels used in the past. If you want to try one of the most expressive, palate-pounding Aglianicos, the “Zero” is a memorable experience.
PAIRINGS Given the potential weight, tannins and high acidity of Aglianicos, there are a couple of guidelines to follow when pairing these wines with food. The most basic pairing rule applies: what is the traditional fare of the region? Lamb, pork and fowl are all abundant in southern Italy. Around the time Aglianico got its name, tomatoes were introduced to Italy (but it wasn’t until much later that they were adopted as a staple). Chef Michael White, of Alto and L’Impero, suggests braised meats with tomatoes as an ideal dish with Aglianico. The intensity of the dish should reflect the intensity of the wine (i.e. lighter preparations for the Aglianico Del Vulture). The herbaceousness of Aglianico complements eggplant, peppers and herbs common to Campania. If you’re adventurous, try a preparation that involves fig or chocolate!
behind the bar
Alto Mojito By Amy Minty
Alto’s bartender, Amy Minty, has developed a cocktail that puts an Italian twist on a modern classic. It’s quick, easy and delicious. Great for any time of the year! Put the following in a cocktail shaker:
1 tbs simple syrup
1 tbs lime juice
small hand full of mint
2 oz Veloce Liqueur
Cover and shake vigorously. Pour into an old fashioned glass filled with ice. Add
1 oz Prosecco
1 oz club soda
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haute notes From the publisher, Haute Notes is about the discovery of all things innovative and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel.
Publisher Michael Goldman
Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Managing Editor Christian Kappner Assistant Editor Stephane Henrion Senior Copy Editor Jennifer Murphy Assistant Copy Editor Miriam fried Contributing Writers pamela jouan Gabriel Asher
10 Cane Rum
Smeg
La Tourangelle Roasted Walnut Oil
Ingredients:
It’s not hard to fall for
1 1/2 oz 10 Cane Rum
these sleekly designed,
3/4 oz Luxardo maraschino liqueur
50s-style “retro”
3/4 oz Berentzen apple liqueur
refrigerators with dreamy
1/2 oz fresh squeezed lime juice
curved corners and a
palate of colors that
La Tourangelle brings its products–and a new mill– stateside. The 150-year old French artisan oil-mill that continues to produce uniquely flavored nut oils in time-honored tradition, now has a sister-mill based in California, complete with custom fabricating century-old equipment and a French oil roasting master to train the staff. The result: new offerings from nuts picked from neighboring orchards, sundried and hand-roasted before cold-pressed and light-filtered. For fall, we love the roasted walnut oil. This highly versatile oil pairs with just about everything—from salads to grilled meats—or just on its own with bread! www.latourangelle.com
Ginger Smash
2 matchbox sized pieces
of fresh pineapple
add just the right splash
to any kitchen (pastel
2 long, thin slices of
fresh ginger root
blue or lime green,
anyone?) Finally this
1 tsp bar sugar
garnish: pineapple leaf
Italian company (name formed from the initials
Directions:
of their metal-enameling
Muddle pineapple, ginger and sugar in
factory in Reggio Emilia,
the bottom of a mixing glass until they
Italy) is stateside. We’ve
turn into a consistent paste. Add the rest
been waiting on these
of the ingredients and fill the mixing
after spotting them in
glass halfway with ice. Shake briefly and
European magazines over
pour unstrained into a rocks or old-
the past few years…
fashioned glass. Garnish with a pineapple leaf.
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Fall 2007
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www.smegusa.com
Photo Director Charles Harris Advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com Marketing Director Katherine Payne
Haute Life Press a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. 321 Dean Street Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217 www.hautelifepress.com info@hautelifepress.com Subscription Inquiries 718.858.1187 subscriptions@hautelifepress.com or visit www.hautelifepress.com
HauteLifePress makes every effort to insure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Printed and bound in the U.S.A © 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.
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