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davidburke magazine
THE CALL OF THE OCEAN! GET SCHOOLED ON FISH CHANGING THE SUPPLY CHAIN FOR SEAFOOD CANVASSING THE SEA FOR ART
Richard Sandoval likes Trinitario White. David Burke chooses Grand Lait.
Nobu Matsuhisa uses Guayaquil Bittersweet.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten prefers Dark Caraibe.
The one thing chefs agree on is the water.
The finest cacao grows in the verdant latitudes between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. It’s also where the finest water comes from, which is why so many chefs serve FIJI. With its refreshing taste and soft feel on the palate, it’s the ideal accompaniment to their exquisite cuisine. Choose well. Drink FIJI. © 2009 FIJI Water Company LLC. All rights reserved. FW1718
www.fijiwater.com
Contents dear friends Running a business always presents new and interesting challenges, especially in the restaurant sector. I take sustainability very much to heart, and in the same way I have always looked for like-minded partners who pay attention to land-based agricultural traceability, I made sustainability the key common ingredient in all my dishes at my latest seafood venture, Fishtail by David Burke. In the following pages, you’ll learn about not just the design and the dishes, but also the concept I adopted that I hope will make an impression beyond the walls of the restaurant—that if we don’t start making changes in the name of the environment, future generations will suffer the consequences.
5 Making Waves Jump on board the Singularis with Fishtail partner Jeff Citron.
11 A Tale in Sustainability Fishtail focuses on traceability and accountability.
7 Farmed from the Sea Litchfield Farms is helping to change the supply chain of fish.
12 Canvassing the Sea J. Vincent Scarpace has a passion for painting fish.
8 Getting Schooled Learn to make the right choices in selecting fish.
15 Setting the Standards Honig Vineyard & Winery is a leader in green farming practices.
9 Get to Know Your Fish Chef Burke’s tips and tricks on buying and cooking fish.
16 chef’s notebook Traveling and shopping with David Burke.
David Burke Townhouse will get a makeover this summer to celebrate the new name: a revised menu with a more organic and natural approach, a new presentation, and a few more signature décor touches. We welcome Chef John Tesar to Fishtail, which is currently open nightly for dinner service. And you can now enjoy prix fixe meals at many of our locations at the recessionbusting price of $20.09: Sunday nights at David Burke Townhouse, Fromagerie, and Fishtail, as well as nightly at David Burke at Bloomingdale’s. With cookbooks to write, a new line of pots and pans to debut, and an eye to new locations, I only hope I can find time to enjoy a little fishing of my own this summer!
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Š2009 Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
Burgundy and nothing but Burgundy
Making Waves
Jeff Citron
After first transforming Wall Street by introducing electronic trading while CEO of Datek Online, and then revamping telecommunications with Internet telephone services through his own company, Vonage Holdings, Jeff Citron is making waves again . . . this time onshore and off with Chef David Burke in their latest venture together: Fishtail. longtime patron of Burke’s Park Avenue Café in the 1990s, Jeff
American restaurant. That is just how much they invest in quality fish that
Citron developed a friendship with the chef that, years later,
the Japanese market demands.”
flourished into a full-time partnership. “We are both passionate about people and giving them a wonderful experience—David through food, and I through an understanding about consumer behavior and translating those needs and wants into strong value propositions,” says Citron. Citron is excited about their latest venture: “Diners want a great atmosphere to eat healthy, to enjoy fish in a more traditional style, and to rest assured that the fish is not only fresh but also responsibly caught and sustainable.” Citron knows a thing or two about fresh fish. An avid fisherman from a young age, he recently developed his skills from near- and offshore fishing to big game. His 50-foot Hatteras, Singularis, has a full-time crew that fishes year-round from the Atlantic coast down to the Caribbean. Citron is on the boat about a third of the time it’s in the water, its agenda including
Citron has very definite opinions about fishing as both a sport and an industry. He feels local environmental protections are working well to improve marine ecology. “It was rare in the last decade or two to see the kind of marine life we now find in the rivers and nearshore areas, like dolphins, sea lions, and even whales—a testament to the water getting cleaner, faster,” he says. But his main concerns lie with the fishing restrictions that seem to favor commercial fishing boats over recreational fishermen. “There is no way that sport or recreational fishing will ever decimate a stock,” says Citron. “The culprits are on the commercial side, the ones who use gillnetting, or dragging nets for fish.” While Citron concedes that the government has raised the allowable size limit of fish to be caught, he is quick to point out that in the case of nets, throwing back smaller fish caught as a by-product is a moot point, as the fish are usually already dead.
procuring and harvesting particular fish for the restaurant as well as catch-
Furthermore, netting kills a lot of baitfish—like whiting, herring, bunker,
and-release programs in anticipation of tournament season. “We use circle
and mackerel—that larger fish like tuna and marlin rely on for food,
hooks to ensure the healthy state of the fish when we release them,” he
keeping those stock levels healthy. “What hurts a fish stock most is when
explains, “and take great care to catch the right fish of an appropriate size
you decimate their food supply. To ensure sustainable fishing, let people fish
for Fishtail.”
on tackle. The United States does a pretty good job patrolling for netting in
During last year’s tournament season, the Singularis crew pulled in a 285-
shore waters, but further out, and in international waters, it’s terrible.”
pound bluefin tuna two days in a row. One was flown directly to Fishtail
In the end, Citron emphasizes that it’s not about the number of fish you
for restaurant patrons to enjoy, and the other made its way to Japan after
catch in a day, but about going out and hooking that one perfect fish:
buyers back at the docks were impressed by the quality of the fish. “In fact,”
“While in the Dominican Republic recently, that fish was a 200-pound
he adds, “the buyers were actually upset that we sent one of the fish to an
blue marlin. We caught it and released it, and it was perfect.”
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Hook, Line, and Sinker
litchfield farms is Falling for Fish
A few years back, Litchfield Farms made a decisive move away from land-based agriculture products and into the seafood market. General Manager Andrea Angera’s grandfather had started the business 75 years ago, at a time when there weren’t “unnatural” products. t really wasn’t until after World War II that we saw the impact of industrial fertilizers on the products we were consuming,” says Angera, “and now we are finally back full circle to a time that emphasizes a natural profile. There was a big social context to the original organic movement, which was to support farmers and eat food that came from people we knew, that was harvested using techniques we approved of, including being good to the animals and the environment.” As a recreational fisherman, Angera had decided to take a closer look at the seafood sector and recognized it was at the same place that agriculture had been many years ago: in need of refocusing. “The consumption of fish is increasing, as it should. It is an ideal protein source: low in fat and rich in omega-3 and -6. But the general concerns about mercury and pollutants, as well as sustainability and affordability, are genuine.” Litchfield Farms strives to bring its customers—both chefs and individual consumers alike—fresh fish that is completely traceable, by forging relationships with like-minded fisheries the world over. They start with a defined standard for every fish they distribute. “One hundred percent of wild fisheries are either at capacity or have collapsed today,” Angera states, “so we only support limited wild fisheries that have a cultural connection, not factory fishing. After all, it would be wrong to tell an Ecuadorian fisherman that he can’t go out and catch fish to feed his family or local community, or someone on Long Island who has been oystering there for 300 years to stop. It’s about maintaining a connection to the sea and a cultural connection to tradition.” Case in point: his Brazilian producer that supplies cobia, a wild fish that is often a bycatch. Everyone who works on this particular farm was a local fisherman put out of business when large companies came in with factory boats. “Not only is it a greattasting product, but you are helping create cultural reinvigoration in the area, so everyone wins.” A recent study released by the United Nations supports aquaculture farms as the best source of fresh fish for human consumption, and Angera
couldn’t agree more, although he carefully selects only farms that meet the company’s high standards. Litchfield prides itself on its hands-on connection with every facility they work with: each one has been visited and verified by a staff member. “We hold everyone we do business with accountable—we ask for their feed analysis, and we are told of every change or health issue that occurs.” He offers as example the Norwegian company Codfarmers, who have a fully integrated program for cod, currently on the list of endangered species, where they take eggs and sperm together with the local genetics of the Norwegian wild cod and raise them in what Angera considers one of the best-managed environments in the world. Another example of exemplary farmed fish is the Kindai tuna, a completely cultured bluefin tuna 30 years in the making, courtesy of Japan’s Kinki University. “The fish we represent have to be indigenous,” Angera explains. “Here, wild fish are brought in for the genetic expression, and any excess that can’t be raised are released into the wild. This is a case of cultivating a fish to maintain a cultural connection by preserving a cultural icon, not raising fish to feed the planet because bluefin are so high up on the food chain. Feed the world with cobia, not tuna!” Litchfield Farms is also committed to education. “Training involves an academic element—a full history of the relationship of all parties in the seafood industry, as well as a demonstration using the fish. In the case of the Kindai tuna, the idea is to show how every piece is usable, right down to the bones used for fish stock after every scrap of meat is removed for tuna tartar. In Japan, even the tendons are cured and made into pastrami.” “When I walk into a restaurant, I’m not just selling fish—I’m bringing a story with a connection to a person with an exceptional product, and that’s how I get business,” explains Angera. “I connect with the chefs because we share a commitment to the same thing.” And with a little effort on our part, eating the right fish for the right reasons will make all the difference in the world—starting with the oceans.
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Fish A New School of
As with agriculture, aquaculture is becoming more transparent in terms of traceability. NGOs, or nongovernmental organizations, post their own fish advisory lists. The status of fish species changes regularly based on new research. Here’s a sample of the good, the bad, and the endangered.
Best choices for healthy, sustainable fish
Currently endangered fish
what to know about mercury and pollutant levels
These species have a combination of problems, such as overfishing, high bycatch, and poor management, or farming methods that have serious environmental impact. Some aquacultured farms around the world have made great strides to provide these species in a nonthreatening environment and, furthermore, add to the populations in surrounding waters.
Mercury is a naturally occurring metal that exists at low levels throughout the environment—and because it is an element, it never breaks down or disappears. Mercury is also released into the air primarily from industrial sources, falling to the ground in rain or snow and entering streams, rivers, lakes, and oceans through water runoff, where it is converted into a highly toxic form of mercury called methylmercury. Methylmercury can build up in the tissues of fish, and in high concentrations can pose serious health risks to people who frequently eat contaminated fish.
American plaice
PCBs, or polychlorinated biphenyls, are highly toxic industrial compounds. Although banned from manufacture in the United States in 1977, PCBs are slow to break down and can persist in the environment at dangerous levels. PCBs accumulate in sediments at the bottom of streams, rivers, lakes, and coastal areas. Like mercury, these chemicals can build up in the fatty tissues of fish and other animals and pose serious health risks if consumed in high concentrations.
seabass These species are currently considered relatively abundant, with fishing or farming methods causing little damage to their habitats and other wildlife. Abalone (farmed) Alaska salmon Albacore tuna Atlantic char (farmed) Atlantic herring Atlantic mackerel
marlin
Barramundi (U.S. farmed)
Atlantic flounder
Catfish (farmed)
Atlantic halibut
Haddock (hook and line only)
Atlantic salmon
Mahimahi (U.S. Atlantic)
Atlantic sole
Pacific cod
Bigeye tuna
Pacific halibut
Bluefin tuna
Pacific sole
Blue marlin
Rainbow trout (farmed) Striped bass Striped mullet
Corvina
catfish
Orange roughy
Tuna (Atlantic only)
Shark (imported)
Walleye pollack
Yellowtail (Japanese farmed)
Yellowtail (U.S. only)
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Chilean sea bass Grouper
Tilapia
8
Atlantic cod
salmon
Fish is generally healthy to eat, but you should eat some types infrequently, if at all. Blue Ocean Institute, at blueocean.org, works to inspire a closer relationship with the sea through science, art, and literature. One of their efforts resulted in the creation of a phone “text” application. Next time you are at a restaurant or shopping for fish, text “FISH” and the species name to 30644 for instant sustainability information. Cell phone and PDA users can visit fishphone.org to download a cell phone–friendly seafood guide. For more information on unhealthy fish, also visit greenpeace.org or montereybayaquarium.org.
in the hsfitac
Chef David Burke can’t say enough about the virtues of a nice piece of fish. “I was initially shocked at the success of Fishtail, but it just shows how many people of all ages love fish and its healthy aspects!” he says. “Fish has less fat, plenty of nutritional value, and after you eat it, you feel good that you ate well, aren’t bloated, and did something positive for the environment at the same time!” On Buying Fresh Fish
Essential Cooking Tools
“I can tell if a fish is truly fresh by its shine, eyes, and gills, even the skin
s on. I find that “We hot-grill fish in the restaurants. I like tono domitla skin
itself. A good fish still has a little slime or natural juice on the outside—
those nonstick wire fish baskets you use to flip over fish on the BBQ are
it looks happy, as if it thinks it’s still swimming! Eyes should always be
great for home use. Not only doesn’t the fish stick to the grill, but you can
plump and clear, not sunken, like a clown; the gills, bright red, not brown
easily pull it away from the flame without having to worry about putting
or bleeding or staining the collar. And the tail should look like fresh hair,
hands that are not used to the heat over a hot BBQ.”
not tangled or matted.”
No Bones About It
Grill Favorites “Lobster on a grill, shrimp on a grill—both delicious, along with the
“The biggest problem most people have with whole fish is that it’s usually
typical meaty fishes like salmon, swordfish, or tuna. I personally think
too bony. While we avoid that with clever butchery, the best tip I can give
scallops are too delicate for a grill. As far as crabs, if you don’t mind the
the home cook is to ask a fish guy to clean your fish: simply clean out the
work, throw a hard-shell crab on the grill, toss it in a nice vinaigrette,
cavity and butterfly it, taking out some of the bones, except for the head
crack it, and enjoy! Soft-shell crab works well on a grill as well.”
and tail.”
When It’s a Wash “Honestly, we try not to wash our fish. Rinsing a fish usually means you are trying to hide something. If it has a lot of scales, you can hose it off a little, but with the skin intact. We typically wash the outside of shellfish, but we never rinse an oyster if they are open, for example—once again, if you do, it just means there is something wrong with it. If you thaw frozen shrimp, you don’t need to wash them before cooking.”
Keeping Fish Simple
doc citnalta
“I like fish sautéed, steamed, or roasted; and in the summer, nothing beats a nice piece of grilled fish with a little glaze on it. Since I am classically trained in the French style—and they don’t grill fish as much over there—I often would rather put a piece of fish in a wood oven and get it blistered, versus grill marks. I also like fish treated as meat, like a fish steak with sauce, or perhaps pairing swordfish with an egg to make an eggs Benedict of sorts.”
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2009 • davidburke
Fishtail
Catch of the Day
Chef David Burke is working to make Fishtail the first all-sustainable seafood restaurant in New York, and he approaches this lofty goal with real motivation. “It’s the right thing to do,” he explains. “My children should be able to eat the same fish during their lifetime that I have in mine. If we don’t make changes now, before long they won’t know what swordfish tastes like, and that would be a real shame.”
aving excelled in the past by working with partners who focus on
in the stairwell a red glass sculpture, handblown by my good friend and
animal traceability and accountability, Chef Burke is now making
Brooklyn-based chef Michael Ayoub, to give an effect of buoys.” Upstairs,
those same promises to his guests at Fishtail, his latest New York venture.
the coral fishnet-wallpapered space, replete in sunshine, takes on a more
“It’s challenging, it’s interesting, and it’s time to take a stand,” he adds,
demure feel. There is even an Andy Warhol—Fish—from Burke’s private
noting that connecting with the right purveyors, such as the Connecticut
collection on display. “Honestly, a lot of what we did was practical design,”
seafood distributor Litchfield Farms, has made the job a little easier.
admits Chef Burke. “There is definitely a sense of fancy and design, but
He says that while 80 percent of the current menu is sustainable, the
it’s simple and beautiful in a timeless, sexy fashion, not overdone. We left
goal is to get that percentage even higher. “We are constantly making
plenty of room to add or subtract if we want to.”
adjustments to the menu. Cod is popular but not sustainable, so I took it off the menu.” Other items, such as soft-shell crab, are harder to dismiss. “We have to balance what our customers want with what is right. It’s impossible to find sustainable soft-shell crab, but people love them. It doesn’t mean I stop searching for a sustainable source though.”
To complement the juxtaposition of rooms, the menu presents a bounty of balance: simple fare and more intricate dishes both vie for a spot on the table. The menu looks expansive, but on closer inspection, the choices are pared down to different treatments of a few key varieties of fish and seafood. For example, mussels, albeit angry ones à la Burke, appear in
Known for his custom touches, both on the plate and on the walls, Chef
both the raw-bar section as well as in a hot dish. To reflect both time and
Burke did not allow Fishtail to be immune to his treatment. “I’m by no
tide, the menu changes seasonally and is constantly fine-tuned.
means a designer,” he chuckles, “but I had fun decorating the space.” And it shows, from the graffiti-laced lamp shades that hang over the downstairs raw bar to the upstairs collection of playful fish paintings that he commissioned—whimsy mixes well with a serious approach in the kitchen.
Creating a sustainable-focused restaurant presents another huge hurdle in addition to sourcing: price. “The fish is more expensive, but we are willing to absorb those costs,” Burke explains. “It’s called ‘investing in what we are doing.’ ” He hopes the success of his latest venture will allow him to spread the word on sustainable seafood to his other restaurants. Early
Although there is a definite nautical theme to the décor, Burke throws
favorable reviews of Fishtail and its initial success in the neighborhood
typical design a curveball by using deep purple for the banquets that line
points to this goal as attainable, and necessary for all the right reasons. In
the downstairs bar. “I kept the wood-plank floor to resemble a boat; found
the meantime, Chef Burke stays relentlessly committed to providing the
a sculpture adorned with mermaids, that looks like driftwood; and placed
freshest fish possible for his guests, even if it means catching it himself!
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Canvassing the Sea
J. vincent scarpace’s passion for painting fish
Based in Texas, J. Vincent Scarpace creates original works of art in acrylic, watercolor, oils, and pastels, and almost always with a fish theme. Chef David Burke commissioned Scarpace to create a series of nine paintings that hang on the wall of the top floor of Fishtail, all very much in keeping with the Burke hallmark of whimsy and color.
What is your fascination with fish in art, and what do they represent to you? The simple answer is, I love fish. The more complex one is that, over time, fish have become an accurate, outward record of my own discovery process as an artist. I have also discovered that my fish represent many different things to my clients: some see them as spiritual, others as a visual representation of wealth and prosperity. I love that my works are open to diverse interpretations! How did you prepare for the David Burke commission? First and foremost, by listening to my client. Through our conversations, I was able to gain a very real feel for the space, the work requested, and Chef Burke’s vision for Fishtail. My wife and I are both huge fans of the Food Network, and we were very excited when Chef David Burke contacted us about artwork since we knew all about him and his food. He is a creative, forward thinker, and those are my favorite kind of clients. The pieces you completed are a perfect complement to Chef Burke’s culinary style—studied and serious, but also colorful and whimsical. Did you consult his menu or read up on his style of cooking for inspiration? I definitely think knowing about his food and his style of cooking prior to speaking with him helped me understand his vision. Since Chef Burke had seen my website and was familiar with the type of fish art I create, I deduced that he wanted a more colorful, whimsical feel to the pieces for his restaurant. Once he explained to me the specific mood he wanted to create, I knew exactly what art would fuse perfectly with the atmosphere.
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How do you choose the fish for your subjects and come up with their names? While they do have some characteristics of actual species, my fish mostly come from my imagination. I do have clients that contact me wanting picture-perfect recreations of species-specific fish, but more often than not, I am asked to create quirky, romantic types of fish. The names of my works are actually part of the process of creating them: while I paint, I wait for some particular aspect of their character to shine through, and I give them a title that suits them. Maybe it’s all the paint and turpentine fumes I have been exposed to over the years, but naming them is a big part of the fun of creating them! Do you paint any other sea creatures besides fish? I did paint a vintage lure once, but mostly its fish. I just accepted a client commission for a very large crawfish, so I am excited to see how that creation unfolds. I am always open to the evolution of my artwork. Do you enjoy fishing? I wish I could say I go as often as I would like to. My father-in-law is an avid fisherman, and it’s been far too long since we’ve been out on a boat together. What seafood do you enjoy eating? I love all types of fish. Since this is Texas, I like to try catfish locally and crawfish seasonally. Since we live near the coast, I get to enjoy a lot of fresh seafood, in particular tuna, crabs, scallops, and lobster.
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Lobster Carbonara with Caviar Yields 2 servings Ingredients 2 1-lb lobsters (You can also substitute with 8 shrimp, cooked)
1 cup chicken stock
1/3 cup cooked bacon, chopped
1 package imported hand-rolled penne
4 tbsp onion, finely chopped 1/4 tsp garlic, finely chopped 2 tbsp thyme, chopped 8 cherry tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup fresh peas 3 egg yolks 2 oz caviar 2 tbsp parmesan cheese
Method Cook lobster for approximately 8 minutes in boiling water, and remove shell. Sweat bacon in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, and thyme, and sautĂŠ until the onions are translucent and slightly browned. Add tomatoes and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add peas and pasta. Stir in egg yolks. Remove from heat and place on plate. Top with lobster and then caviar, then garnish with parmesan cheese.
Tuna Tacos Yields 3 mini tacos Tuna filling
Pineapple salsa
6 oz bigeye tuna or sashimi-grade tuna, chopped
1 cup pineapple, diced
2 tbsp shallots, minced
2 tbsp cilantro
2 tbsp white soy
1 tbsp Tabasco
2 tbsp cilantro, minced
juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup macadamia nuts, roasted and chopped
salt and pepper
1/4 cup red onion, diced
3 mini taco shells Method In a medium bowl, mix together ingredients for tuna filling. In another medium bowl, mix together ingredients for pineapple salsa. Place approximately 2 ounces of the tuna filling in each taco shell. Top with 1 tablespoon of the pineapple salsa.
Hamachi Tacos Yields 3 mini tacos Hamachi filling 1/4 lb hamachi, finely chopped
3 tbsp Masago caviar
1/4 medium red onion, finely minced
2 ripe Haas avocados, diced Salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp cilantro, finely chopped 1/2 tsp lemon juice
3 mini taco shells
Method In a medium bowl, mix together all ingredients for filling. Place approximately 2 ounces of hamachi filling into each mini taco shell. Serve with kabayaki sauce (an eel sauce that can be purchased at Asian gourmet stores).
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2009 • davidburke
By Michael Shef Certified Court of Master Sommelier
Honig Vineyard & Winery SETTING THE STANDARDS Michael Honig
IN GREEN FARMING PRACTICES
Honig Vineyard & Winery is a family-owned winery located in the Rutherford AVA (American Viticultural Area) of California’s Napa Valley, producing exceptional sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon. I recently had the opportunity to speak with Michael Honig, the grandson of Louis Honig, who established the winery in 1964. onig has long been a leader in sustainable farming. In fact, Michael
efforts do contribute to the overall quality of the wines. “We don’t grow
chaired the first California initiative to develop a “Code of Sustainable
bottles of wine on our vines; we are farmers, and protecting the land and
Winegrowing Practices,” a voluntary program establishing statewide
being caretakers allow us to produce more flavorful, more intense wines.”
guidelines for sustainable farming and winemaking. He is also involved in an innovative pilot program that trains yellow lab puppies to detect vine mealybugs in the vineyard. In addition, Honig recently installed a solar panel system in the vineyard, which generates electricity for all of their energy needs and sends the surplus energy into the grid. Honig is committed to the unique ecosystem on their property. Starting with the name Honig, the German word for honey, the family maintains beehives to help ensure pollination of the various plants on the property.
About Honig wines: Honig’s range of wines consists of only two varietals: sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon. I asked Michael why, after all this time, they haven’t added chardonnay or pinot noir, or other noble grape varieties, to their portfolio. “It allows us to stay focused on producing the best sauvignon blanc and cabernet that we can. Instead of trying to be everything to everyone, we just keep working on what we have.”
Careful attention is given to the varieties of plants as
All of their efforts are definitely paying dividends.
they attract butterflies and other insects that are vital to
The Honig sauvignon blanc has received high scores
maintaining the balance of the ecosystem. Honig also
and is currently on the wine lists at both David Burke
scatters birdhouses and bat boxes throughout the property.
Townhouse and Fishtail. There are two different bottlings
The birds, a mix of hawks and owls, are natural predators
of the sauvignon blanc: the Napa, which has some
to gophers and other rodents that can cause so much damage at the winery.
sémillon in the blend, and is crisp with vibrant, tropical flavors that linger;
The bats, especially important, work at night to help keep the insect
and the Reserve, which comes from the sustainably farmed family estate in
population in balance.
Rutherford, and has some muscat and sémillon in the blend. This wine is
I asked Michael why they go through all of this effort and expense for non-winemaking practices:
rounder and fuller than the Napa Sauvignon Blanc, with a more intense melon, creamy flavor. There is also a Late-Harvest Sauvignon Blanc that comes from a plot on the
“Winemaking is a generational business. If we don’t value what we have
family estate right next to the Napa River, which helps create the climate
and protect it for the next generation, there won’t be a family business. If
necessary to make great sweet wines. This wine has an amazing balance of
you destroy how you make your living, well, obviously you aren’t going to
acidity, white-stone fruit flavors, and the taste of honey. Try this with the
be able to continue making that living.” And according to Michael, their
Cheesecake Lollipops or the Apple Tart on the menu.
2009 • davidburke
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Burke Heads to the Hills . . .
Big Beer Meets Big Cuisine
Come and meet Chef David Burke at this year’s Food & Wine
To celebrate Samuel Adam’s recent launch of a more intense, big-beer series, Chef David Burke created a special pairing menu for an event held at Fishtail. The three courses were designed to highlight the flavors of each beer by offering dishes that not only complemented but often used the brew as a component of the meal itself.
Classic in Aspen, Colorado, June 19th through June 21st.
Nothing Fishy About These Destinations . . . While in Paris last year sourcing items for Fishtail, Chef Burke made a few additions to his itinerary: “Fauchon for pastry, and the fish market for—what else?” Next on his travel list: “Hawaii
As Jim Koch and his brewers continue to push the envelope and turn the craft-beer world on its head, they intended this Imperial Series to be savored and appreciated much like a fine wine. Each beer contains almost twice the alcohol by volume of an average beer and more robust, heightened flavor profiles.
If you’ve had a chance to sample the Can
“You are starting to see beer on a lot of tasting menus these days,” says Chef Burke, who appreciates the strides Samuel Adams continues to make to match beers with big-cuisine tastes. He is drawn back, time and again, to the unique and vigorous flavors of these beers in particular, and to the pride and quality that goes into the recipe. “Sure it’s satisfying, but it’s more than just that: it’s the same kind of appreciation you have for a great sandwich that you want to savor—it’s a feeling of celebration.”
o’ Cake at Fishtail, you know what all the
Sam Adams Imperial White
fuss is about. And now you can experience
Tasting notes: A seasonal white ale with a fruity finish that opens as it warms up. Dry fruit, exotic spices, and floral blossoms.
this summer—now that’s the spot to see some amazing-looking tuna!”
Cutting It Close . . . With a line of pots, pans, and chefs’ steak knives about to debut on QVC, Chef Burke has plenty going on in the kitchen. Stay tuned!
Sweet Endings . . .
this show-stopping Burke original at home: simply call in an order, and pick it up at Fishtail. For the recipe and method, go to today.msnbc.msn.com/id/29758361 to check
Paired with at tasting: Sea Urchin Risotto with Laughing Bird Shrimp
When Chef Burke isn’t busy in the David Burke at Bloomingdale’s kitchen, revamping the counter section
Other Burke suggestions: “From lobster with lemon or lemongrass and any type of Asian stir fry (that isn’t too heavy on the Szechuan) to dishes with fruit in it: pork with applesauce or a chicken with mango salsa.”
and coordinating wine, tequila, and dinner nights, he spends a little time shopping. “It’s convenient,
Sam Adams Imperial Stout
and I have everything I need literally at my fingertips! Here’s a selection of the last items I purchased
Tasting notes: A clean, earthy aroma with pleasant bitterness. Coffee, smoky chocolate, and licorice.
out Chef Burke making this on a recent NBC Today show.
Busy at Bloomingdale’s . . .
there: Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme, my signature scent; a Louis Vuitton messenger bag; black Ferragamo shoes; and Armani sunglasses. I’m always in the housewares department, picking out everything from placemats and towels to toasters for the kitchens. And I’m due to hit the Polo section to buy up some summer shirts in anticipation of my Hawaiian vacation. Aloha!”
Paired with at tasting: Peppered Black Sea Bass; Braised Pheasant with Red Cabbage and Chestnut Spaetzle Other Burke suggestions: “From casual fare, like a Bacon Cheese Burker, to a meaty beef Wellington or a BBQ pork with chocolate in the sauce. We also make a cowboy chili with coffee beans that would work well.” Sam Adams Double Bock
Welcome Aboard! Chef Burke welcomes new crew members to The Burke Group: Sylvain Delpique, Executive Chef, David Burke Townhouse; John Tesar, Executive Chef, Fishtail by David Burke; Brad Gardiner, Director of Operations, The Burke Group; Michael Shef, Beverage Director, David Burke Townhouse; Branden McRill, Beverage Director, Fishtail by David Burke; Teddy Suric, General Manager, Fishtail by David Burke.
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2009 • davidburke
Tasting notes: Intense, rich lager. Malty character balanced with a subtle, piney, citrus note. Paired with at tasting: Coconut Panna Cotta and Beer Gelée Other Burke suggestions: “From rich meats to sweet flavors, like cheesecakes and crème brûlées.”
CELEBRATE WITH THE MOST CELEBRATED BEST NEW WORLD WINERY 2008 #1 WINE OF 2008 CLOS APALTA 2005
WWW.LAPOSTOLLE.COM FROM THE HOUSE OF GRAND MARNIER ©2009 IMPORTED BY MARNIER-LAPOSTOLLE CO., NY, NY, SOLE U.S. DISTRIBUTOR, MOËT HENNESSY U.S.A. NY, NY
HauteNotes
From the publisher, Haute Notes is about the discovery of all things innovative
and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.
Publisher Michael Goldman Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan
HAUTETRAVEL
HAUTETaste
Caneel Bay Caneel Bay is a special place—a truly unique experience in restrained yet fine living. There are no televisions, telephones, or otherwise digital distractions at this low-key luxury property, located within the protected grounds of the Virgin Islands National Park on the island of St. John. What you’ll find is 170 acres of lush landscape, including seven secluded white-sand beaches. Wildlife in the sea is abundant (turtles, stingrays, and tropical fish abound), as well as on land (wild donkeys have free range of the property!). The simply furnished and elegant accommodations casually blend in at this serene hideaway that Laurence Rockefeller founded more than 50 years ago. Visit caneelbay.com.
American Tuna American Tuna was started by six fishing families in and around San Diego, California, with the idea of providing high-quality canned tuna to America. San Diego, once the tuna capital of the world, is home to these fishermen—some third-generation— who are still living and breathing this hundred-year-old tradition of pole-and-line-caught albacore. Taking a stand to protect their fishery and way of fishing for generations to come, they helped form the American Albacore Fishing Association. The taste and quality, high levels of omega-3, and low mercury levels, with no fillers, broth, or water added, result in a product that is “leagues” better than the rest. Visit americantuna.com.
HAUTENOTEWORTHY
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HAUTEART The James Turrell Museum Colomé, Argentina With the new James Turrell Museum of the Hess Art Collection in Colomé, Argentina, Donald Hess combines his two passions: top-quality art and wine. Located in the Hess Family Estates, with sweeping views of the Andean foothills, the museum is dedicated entirely to James Turrell’s vast light installations. Turrell ranks among the most influential light and space artists of our time and has been analyzing the various manifestations of natural and artificial light for over 50 years. Visit hesscollection.com.
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Made to taste.com MadeToTaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products. Imagine shopping in a chef’s pantry for food products, kitchen tools and accessories, and cookbooks! MadeToTaste.com also features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and cocktail pairings.
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david burke locations
133 East 61st Street New York, NY 10021 tel 212.813.2121 davidburketownhouse.com
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2009 • davidburke
135 E 62nd Street New York, NY 10065 tel 212.754.1300 fishtaildb.com
Bloomingdale’s New York Foxwoods Resort & Casino Connecticut McCarran Airport, Terminal D Las Vegas burkeinthebox.com
26 Ridge Road Rumson, NJ 07760 tel 732.842.8088 fromagerierestaurant.com
Foxwoods Resort & Casino Route 2 Mashantucket, CT 06338 tel 860.312.8753 davidburkeprime.com
The Venetian 3355 Las Vegas Blvd S. Las Vegas, NV 89109 tel 702.414.7111 davidburkelasvegas.net
616 North Rush at Ontario Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312.660.6000 davidburke.com/primehouse
Taste the Washington difference.
Columbia Winery was founded in 1962 by ten friends united in the belief that classic European vines could survive the harsh Washington winters and that fine wine could be made in Washington State. Columbia Winery produces award winning Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as exceptional Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. We also offer highly-acclaimed vineyard designated wines from long-established vineyards including Otis, Wyckoff and the renowned Red Willow Vineyard.
“Masterful wines from Washington State” 2008 Distributed by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Harrison NY 10604 wjdeutsch.com
www.columbiawinery.com
fall 2007 • davidburke
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HOTSPOT:HOME
bloomingdales.com
Movie nights. Breakfast in bed. Yoga in the living room. Now’s the perfect time to turn your home into your favorite hang-out spot. Adorn your space with our well-curated collections from all the best designers, and make walking through your front door feel like a thrill, each and every time.
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