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COVER STORY

COVER STORY

PHOTO COURTESY OF LILAS LE QUELLEC FOR RICHARD MILLE WATCHESHaute

Pastel POWER

Richard Mille adds elegant new limited editions to Richard Mille adds elegant new limited editions to the RM 07-01 collection. the RM 07-01 collection.

BY MARTIN GREEN

WITH THE RM 07-01, RICHARD MILLE HAS A LADIES’ watch in its collection that combines timeless appeal with a hightech nature. It’s the perfect watch for modern, successful women, and not least because Mille continues to innovate with it. This legacy now gets another chapter with three new RM 07-01 models. What sets them apart from their predecessors is their case, which is crafted from ceramic in pastel colors.

Getting these colors in ceramic is extremely challenging, as pigments tend to burn up when exposed to the high temperatures needed to make the material. Mille not only overcame these difficulties but was able to make the ceramic in three stunning pastel colors: blue, pink and lavender. They all have a matte finish that gives the watches a unique appeal, further accentuated by a charismatic dial. Mille combined rubber, ceramic and guilloche to create contrasting colors and textures. The result is not only refreshing but also highly artistic. The mixture of a centuries-old craft like guilloche with high-tech materials is what sets these limited editions of the RM 07-01 apart.

The dashing colors continue in the crown, as well as with the strap, of which each side has a color of its own. It adds a fun quality to what is otherwise a very serious piece of haute horlogerie. The RM 07-01 is powered by caliber CRMA2, made in-house by Mille. It comes with a stunning variable-geometry oscillating weight in red gold, which can be admired through the sapphire caseback. There, the rest of the movement also can be seen, with its skeletonized bridges and main plate.

While Mille may be running one of the most progressive brands in the industry, he has a deep respect for the history of watchmaking, utilizing the same decorating techniques as those who have come before him, yet in a far more avant-garde way. These new RM 07-01s are the perfect testimony to this, showing the philosophy inside and out.

The Beauty of the Night Sky

The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 celebrates Seiko’s 140th anniversary.

BY MARTIN GREEN

THE WATCHMAKERS OF GRAND SEIKO’S MICRO Artist Studio in Shiojiri, Japan, have created yet another masterpiece to celebrate Seiko’s 140th anniversary. Named SBGZ007, it is reminiscent of the SBGZ001, mainly thanks to its textured platinum case. The texture itself is, however, quite different. The artisans took inspiration from the night sky over their manufacture and decorated the Zaratsu polished case with a starlike pattern. This further highlights the slim and elegant profile of the case, which has a diameter of 38.5mm and is only 9.8mm thick.

A deep blue dial is customary when a brand wants to bring to life the beauty of the night sky. Most opt for aventurine, a type of glass with gold flecks in it representing the stars. Grand Seiko took a different approach. They combined stamping, plating and painting to recreate the sky and all its stars. The result is mesmerizing, and the longer you look at the dial, the more stars you see. The rest of the dial of the SBGZ007 has been kept rather sober. The hour markers are made from white gold to ensure that they will retain their brilliance for decades to come. The sword hands clearly indicate the time and make a powerful impression, giving the watch even more character.

Such a great watch deserves a great movement, and caliber 9R02 is nothing less. Fitted with a spring drive, it was initially launched in 2019 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of this proprietary technology. Thanks to this, the SBGZ007’s deviate is just 15 seconds a month, an unprecedented accuracy. The movement is fitted with two main springs in a single barrel that, thanks to an ingenious torque return system, offers a generous 84-hour power reserve. As can be expected of Grand Seiko, the finishing of the movement is superb. It can be admired in all its glory at the back of the watch, with its anglage and blue tempered screws. There we also find a small gold plaque that can be engraved with a text of choice.

The SBGZ007 is limited to 50 pieces and available at the Grand Seiko boutiques.

Customize in Customize in a Single Click a Single Click

Roger Dubuis partners again with Pirelli to create the latest Excalibur Spider.

BY MARTIN GREEN

IN THE WORLD OF RACING, COLORS ARE OF GREAT importance, not only to recognize your opponent or signals from the stewards at the side of the track but also when it comes to your tires. Brands like Pirelli use color codes for each compound, making it easy to see the difference. With a race car, switching between the various types of tires is normal during the different stages of a race. While a super-soft tire might be great to set a fast lap time, a harder compound is needed to drive a longer stint.

As Pirelli is a partner of Roger Dubuis, the two brands thought that if this is possible with high-performance race cars, why not with watches?

From this idea, the new Excalibur Spider Pirelli was born. Thanks to an innovative system, the strap, bezel and even the crown can be changed in just a single click. This allows you to play with the iconic color codes Pirelli uses for its racing tires. Available in red, white or blue, these “racing kits” take the need for speed to the next level, and changing them feels like a pitstop (and takes the same amount of time). The inner parts of the strap and bezel are based on the famous Pirelli Cinturato Intermediate tire. This texture gives the Excalibur Spider Pirelli a lot of character while adding dynamic contrast to the colored details.

While a (race) car is nothing without its engine, a watch can’t do without a movement. The Excalibur Spider Pirelli is fitted with caliber RD820SQ. This movement is skeletonized in the brand’s signature star shape and features a refined finish that allows it to carry the prestigious Geneva Seal. The power comes from a micro-rotor, which can be admired at the front of the watch. The total power reserve is 60 hours, more than enough for an endurance race, during which you can now swap your watch to match the color of your tires.

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