THE REFRACTION.
SPORTS LUXE HAYLEY REBECCA MUIR CAPTUAL COLLECTION PROCESS ANALYSIS DOCUMENT FASHION DESIGN YEAR 3
P.A.D
CONCEPT 4-5 EXHIBITION 6-11 COLOUR 12-13 ARTIST / DESIGNER 14-17 TARGET MARKET 18-21 HOLLAND AND SHERRY 22-23 VOGUE ARCHIVE 24-25 TREND 26-27 SILHOUETTE 28-29 FABRIC MANIPULATION 30-31 FABRIC 32-33 COSTING 34-35 WORKING DRAWINGS 36-37 RANGE PLAN 38-39 FINAL COLLECTION 40-53 EVALUATION 54-57 BIBLIOGRAPHY
CONCEPT
Refraction is the bending of a wave when it enters a medium where its speed is different. The refraction of light when it passes from a fast medium to a slow medium bends the light ray toward the normal to the boundary between media. The purpose of this collection is to come up with new silhouettes by experimenting with different fabrics overlaying the body and experimenting with traditional and contemporary fabric. The shape is cut into fragments adding speed and flow to the collection giving it its sports luxe ascetic inspiring from the gradient of light. Though this collection it will portray commercial considerations in the development of a fashion design for a
R.S.A Instillation ‘Acquifer’ by juliana Capes at the royal scottish academy exhibition (rsa) in edinbrugh this evocted inspiration of a circular theme and the motion of pastel and colour gardient into this collection with the use of mix media using latex, liquid, inks and plastic. The following work explored the smooth surface and minimal space in which is exhibited although creates an outer exhibition in itself with 3D form and flat two dimensional giving a multi vision created by the silhouette and its shadows with the use of light in which developed the silhouette, the use of cut outs and chosen fabric. The clean pallete inspired and motivated a clear minimial surface which is carried through this collection.
Another Minimalism The second exhibition in which I explored and helped creat depth to my collection is another minimalism from the fruit market gallery in which I took the first concept of making my collection very minimal and space aware. light and space was a huge part of the 60’s in calafionia and at the same time minimalism this exhibition combated both these themes, Another Minimalism traces the often-overlooked legacy of Light and Space art, with it’s site-specific installation, colour, immateriality and participation, mathematical abstraction that the term more usually comes to mind. The main instillation that caught my eye were Spencer Finch, Shadows (After Atget), 2007 in which he looks at the gardient of light soft rainbow strip lights lean out of a dark space giving a 3d instilation giving off shadow toine and light emphasising atmosphere and feeling getting you to engage with the instilation. The instillation itself is Dimensions Variable. Fluorescent lights, Fixtures, and Filters. Each of the fluorescent lights re-creates a different shadow visible on Eugène Atget’s photographs of “vieux Paris”. Covered with filters in the colors proposed by Isaac Newton in his color spectrum, the fluorescent lights work as reversed prisms. They emit the polychrome grey light of the shadows photographed by Atget almost 100 years ago and revisited in 2007.
COLOUR Pause offers a luxiourios calming palette which fit perfectly with my tranquil theme keeping it sleek and sporty with a sophisticated wellbeing. The pallete offered a breathing space not to in your face with cool whites, greys and muted greens with warmer tones of green ad duck egg blue. The added rich depd of silver foil enhances the sports active feeling to coinside with the man v machine performance. The colour is stripped back keeping it sophisticated with the muted tones of green, blue and white enhancing the pure and luxurious feel.
DESIGNER Xiao Li SS15 is a winner of fashion scouts Merit Award her spring summer 15 collection inspired me with her playful silhouettes, pastel shades and an athletic aesthetic coming together create a sporty look capsulating mesh and laser-cut leather stitch detail.Bright coral overtook a palette of fresh white, baby blue, peach, lemon and grey, where gently structured garments showed exaggerated rounded shoulders and smooth lines fitting in with diffining lines and pause trend from ss 16/17. The silhouette of angular shapes Cropped backs matched with slightly longer hemlines in shorts and skirts to make for looks that could be worn straight from the catwalk to everyday use. This collection is Clean, minimal and fresh with the use of mesh and neoprene and skillfull laser-cut leather peter pan collars, apron style layers and extended epaulettes. Laser-cut belts were loosely folded around the body exsensuating the silhouette and the form underneath. Leather was also used to create circular bags engraved with Li’s logo and elegant cut-out patterns; a statement replicated on a smaller scale in accent pockets.Skirts were either presented in leather, mesh overlay or tennis style knits, the gentle pleats adding movement to the strong silhouettes of the collection. Gently folded collars and jackets also softened the shapes of Xiao Li’s SS15 looks, a continuation of Li’s experimentation with knitwear and use of high technology fabrics. The white mesh trench coat finished with baby blue shoulders and sleeves was a standout piece. This new sportswear style is for a unisex wear and is light, bright and modern.
X I A O L I
S I M O N A P R I E S
ARTIST Simona Pries’s Subtle Colour German sculptor and installation artist Simona Pries uses different materials to build up colour within her pieces by layering translucent surfaces over coloured fragments with subtle balance between the fragility of glass and the durability of concrete by using paints in soft pastel hues.The artist’s subtle use of colour and awareness of material properties leads to an intriguing portfolio that has developed. The basis of Simona Pries work is architecture, and her materials are taken from the architectural context: cut, sandblasted, painted and partially glued glass; brick or concrete that is broken, drilled, or left as raw industrial material and piled up. In her objects, materials with their contrary qualities encounter each other.
TARGET MARKET the brand and target market is a brand in which has minimal designs characterisez by its details and brung to life by the occupier in the garmenbts bringing the garment to life with movement and touch. key components are the fabric and quality,which make long lasting garments, valuble assets for a trendy customer. i created a womenswear collection for a target audience aged between 29-40, they had a strong interest in fashion and art with a sporty outlook on life. high spending power was the reason for selecting an older consumer and higher age range and muted colour palette, i feel that it can appeal to a wide bracket of young and older women. this was targeted to a consumer who wanted to buy one off piece with an appreciation of statement garments in which can be paired with other key pieces. my brand embassader, iggy azalea is a musician with a high income, with an outgoing creative personality who has a strong interest in the merging of different forms and an avad urban dresser. aged 25 she has the confidence and due to her prefesion she has the income and assertiveness to carry off key items of this collection she would make an artistic statement and wants to be comfortable but push the boundaries of wearability when performing.
New classic, yet forward thinking,modern, functional, ready to wear designs for high brands, reinvented classics of time and wardrobe essentials, pieces that are made to last beyond seasons and trends. Signature style of sharp oversized tailoring and silhouette, natural confidence to embrace the bold style.
Name: janett Tringham Gender: Female Age: 62 years (Libra) Occupation: VM, Office and fashion blogger Interests: Travelling, Cocktails, Blogging Shops: All Saints, Stella McCartney, Boris bidjan, Other Stories, Zara, Jill Sander
HOLLAND AND SHERRY Holland & Sherry a prestigious tailors and luxury brands with some of the finest cloths in the world. Today in our 180th anniversary year we are constantly engaged in research for ever finer and more luxurious fibres and fabric qualities; I wanted to take this and make it contemporary urban push the boundaries taking inspiration from a recent visit to there factory I found sample colour of previous collections, traditional stripes and checks making them contemporary. Many of these were muted colours of blues greens and whites, the main tjhing I noticed was the soft touch and finishes so this was incorporated to my final fabrics, all fabrics would feel fresh and soft to the skin as if it was a second skin and a pleasure to wear, although modern fabrics were used I wanted to incorporate high end luxuary wool and make them up to date and inspiring.
VOGUE ARCHIVE Vogue archice is a great resource looking at the past helping to develop the future taking examples of the past re working and creating new contemporary fashion the decade I was looking at was the 1980’s big silhouette flowing, exentuated shoulders emphasised collars with sinched waists. With the play on proportion this hekped bring forward the flow in my collection. The main influence was the sports luxe of bomber jackets,high neck collars,emphasis on proportion and the volumnicity in sleeves creating a new silhouette in which would create volume its own structure and shadow.
Trend
Pause spring summer 2017 was perfect fot this collection as it focouses on tailored garments with a contradiction to sports luxe and garment quality. the main key points to this trend is the minimal design which fits to the design of garments creating simple atiloring with a sharp crisp look.the quality in design and make is a key componinent as it’s a futureistic look for a new contemporary colledction, withy clean smooth surface that is well presented, pressed and perfectly balanced, creating a high quality finished modern silhouette.
SILHOUETTE The silhouette was stripped back to perfect the existing body shape helping to emphasise parts of the body creating an outer shadow very like the rsa wexhibition as if the gar,ments shadows themselves also create an atmosphere and art. The form and fuction are aligned with designs that are simple yet aided by the use of fabric and manipulations to create a sophisticasted yet luxurious and fuctional collection. Layering is used creating comfortable bases with pops of colour.The cone is a key silhouette trying to stick with this in an overall shape for sleeves trouserlegs, top shapes this was key due to it creating both movement and structure. Fitted crops were added to give more of a contemporary young feel with high waisted coordinates playing with scale, proportions and having a relaxed form inspired by the 1980’s combining sports classics.
FABRIC MANIPULATION fabric manipulation is a key componinet in this collection as tjhis gives it an outstanding limit compaire to the samplistic silhouette this gives it a moore contemporary feel with the use of foiling and embossing. the foiled edges and seams came from the inspiration of reflection and shadow from the exhibitions that i had visited in edinbrugh, with this the stripe foil idea came from the silver signed fabric from holland and sherry tryi ng to take prestigous fabric and make it new and modern taking elemnts from there well known pinstripe and check fabrics. the embossing circular shapes came from the three dimensional sculpture at the rsa where instead of making it 3d i though why not indent and take you into the garment giving you depth and shadow in a new way. embossing is the process most often employed to attract attention or convey a high quality textural contrast in relation to the surrounding area leaving an impression in the fabric and also in your mind. in the laser cutting development sevral pieces were developed in the making of my own jacket lining to try make my own mesh however due to the lack of time and appointments this could not be fully done. laser cutting gave a great effect leaving fresh cut shapes more intracate than hand this shows the man verses machine and the bionical approach to the collection.
FABRIC Luxuary has been looked over time and time again but when it comes to sportswear it has been reavaluated making every garment a must have and a desire metallic finishes heighten garments such as quilted and scuba fabrics with hardware trims with metal trims to emphasise the luxe craft. As materials react and interact with the body, this sports luxe collection had to be a sensory haptic and engage with the body be soft gentle flowing from the rsa exhibition. As pause is part of machine meeting man I explored the boundaries between organic and manmade harnessing artificial and natural fabrics in which will offer calming expierence. Due to the engaging of material I wanted to use materials that would heighten the elite performance and wellbeing using soft, stretch, cushioning, breathable and cool touch fabrics. With the soft supple materials it flows with the outer skin with top functionality with fine breathable mesh and light jerseys which appear weightless. focousing on comfort luxuaryblend fabrics where used to help make the garments feel pure sensual against the skin.Embossing the fabric gave a guxtaposition of haptic and tach fitting in with the pause trend. With the minimal designs this gives the designs added dimension and added exterior focousing your attention to detail and pattern for a new sport tactility aiding with the engaging of materials. Detailing has went from soft polished silver hardware and translucent plastic zips giving a stripped back feel with minimising features and sharpening edges to create functional garments.
COSTING FABRIC PRICE BY METER: neopryne type- 5M - £28 Space mesh - 8M - £15 Stretch twill- 2M - £11.95 Mason wool- 2M - £32.96 Panama wool - 2M - £24 Coated cotton/poly -2m -£15 Jersey -4m - £14 Quilted polyester -5m - £17 Fusible 10m £1 TRIMS / Sundries: Hemline zip 20’’ £ 4 Chunky hemline transparent zip x2 40’’ £7 Nylon hemline transparent zip 16’’ £3 Clips x3 £ 4 Mesh eyelets £9 Foil silver- x2 £8m Foil clear-x2 £8m Foil peral-x1 £8m Bondaweb x 4 £3m
TOILS / EXPERIMENTATION The toil process is quick and easy to solve any problems or issues that had to be resolved this helps to explore the creation process and experiment with different and similar fabrics. Many of the garments had to be re-toiled due to scaling issues placements and length creating new and different silhouettes exploring the theme of refraction. each garment was minipulated different each time excentuating the sleeves or length, deepening the neckline or shortining the length to help create the final silhouette.
THE REFREACTIONCOLLECTION SPRING / SUMMER 2017
EVALUATION The collection works well as a whole and looks well presented from illustration to final with thefinal touches of fabric manipulation to the final fabric. The chosen manipulation would be re looked at and use sevral different ways of communicating my idea if there had been more time and epointments for the lasercutting as the concept would have been to large and time consuming. This would have encountered a well finished garment in which could have looked better with more accuracy. This brief showed the understanding of research and appreciation of new and contemporary fabrics. new silhouettes by experimenting with different fabrics overlaying the body and ex-perimenting with traditional and contemporary fabric. The shape is cut into fragments adding speed and flow to the collection giving it its sports luxe ascetic inspiring from the gradient of light. Though this collection it will portray commercial considerations in the development of a fashion design for a high end market with appropriate production methods to realise with the industry, this will combine, remaster, reinvent, customise luxury with a sense of urban wear to create a collection that is fresh, forward thinking and innovative for a young urban consumer.
This has introduce the principles of commercial considerations in the devel-opment of a fashion design for a high end market with appropriate production meth-ods to realise with the industry, this will combine, remaster, reinvent, customise luxury with a sense of urban wear to create a collection that is fresh, forward thinking and innovative for a young urban consumer. Looking back at the final collection more time and consideration could have been taken into account with adding more fabric and more laser cutting to help manipulate my overall astetic this would have enhanced the collection to its fullest potential. Due to time the quality i felt was effcted and not to a high a standard as i would have wanted.Although this could have been managed through better time management the final collection still stands on its own showing a bold statement of political and strong high end urban luxe brand. Within this brief learning outcomes have been developed from the ability to respond to development of a fashion design for a high end market with appropriate production methods to realise with the industry and individual practise to demonstrate an awareness of the impact of fashion, remaster, reinvent, customise luxury with a sense of urban wear.
DESIGNED WITH THE INNOVATOR IN MIND. ‘REFRACTION’ IS A MODEN AND THOUGHT PROVOKING COLLECTION FOR PROUD URBANWEARABILITY STEROTYPE. SUITED FOR ANY FREE MINDED THINKER THAT WANTS TO PUSH BOUNDRIES WITH THERE FASHON. NOT ONLY WEARING CLOTHES THAT LOOK GOOD BT FEEL GOOD, BUT HAVE TAKEN ON AN ART FORM WITH MEANING AND DEPTH BEHND THEM.
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