Fall 2009 - Winter 2010 Illustrated Books

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Simon’s Cat by Simon Tofield

JUST Added!

The feline Internet phenomenon makes his way onto the page in this first-ever book based on the popular animated series. Based on Simon Tofield’s animations that have taken YouTube by storm, SIMON’S CAT depicts and exaggerates the hilarious relationship between a man and his cat. The daily escapades of this adorable pet, which always involve demanding more food, and his exasperated but doting owner, come to life through simple black-and-white line drawings. With a huge fan following that is growing even larger by the day, SIMON’S CAT is set to become a major new comic creation.

• Simon Tofield’s three short Simon’s Cat animations have received 21.9 million hits on YouTube in less than a year! • As seen by the success of the # 1 New York Times bestseller Dewey (GCP 2008), books about cats and their relationships with their owners are hugely popular with readers. • SIMON’S CAT will appeal to fans of I Can Has Cheezburger?, a feline-focused Web site that became a New York Times bestselling book (Gotham, 2008). • Simon’s Cat has won a number of awards, including YouTube’s Blockbuster Award and Best Comedy at the British Animation Awards.

SEPTEMBER 2009 TRADE PAPERBACK 978-0-446-56066-1 • $12.99 / NCR 240 pages • 8 1/2 x 6 • 200 b/w images and cartoon strips • Humor/Pets • Rights: U.S., Philippines, Nonexclusive Open Market



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Artists included in Surrealist Paintersby Sarane Alexandrian Jean Arp Enrico Baj Balthus Maurice Baskine Hans Bellmer Jean Benoît Victor Brauner André Breton Alexander Calder Jorge Camacho Leonora Carrington Giorgio de Chirico Joseph Cornell Artur do Cruzeiro Seixas Salvador Dali Frédéric Delanglade Paul Delvaux Robert Desnos Oscar Dominguez Enrico Donati Marcel Duchamp Aube Elleouët Paul Eluard Max Ernst Leonor Fini Wilhelm Freddie Alberto Giacometti Arshile Gorky George Grosz Stanley H. Hayter Jindrich Heisler Maurice Henry Jacques Hérold Georges Hugnet Valentine Hugo Marcel Jean Edgar Jené Frida Kahlo Konrad Klapheck Paul Klee Félix Labisse Yves Laloy Wifredo Lam Jacqueline Lamba Jacques Le Maréchal Stanislao Lepri

Popovich Ljuba Gherasim Luca Dora Maar René Magritte Man Ray Georges Malkine André Masson Roberto Matta Mayo E.L.T. Mesens Joan Miro Pierre Molinier Richard Oelze Meret Oppenheim Wolfgang Paalen Mimi Parent Roland Penrose Jules Perahim Francis Picabia Pablo Picasso Remedios Georges Ribemont-Dessaignes Hans Richter Pierre Roy Endre Rozsda Kay Sage Alberto Savinio Kurt Seligmann Jean-Claude Silbermann Joseph Sima Jindrich Styrsky Walter Svanberg Rufino Tamayo Yves Tanguy Dorothea Tanning Hervé Télémaque Toyen Clovis Trouille Raoul Ubac Gérard Vulliamy Franz Wols Unica Zürn


Sarane Alexandrian

Peintres


LES PEINTRES

SURRÉALISTES

Maurice BASKINE Né en 1901 à Kharkov Russie), mort en 1968 à Paris.

Successivement employé de banque, comptable,

représentant de commerce, il découvrit l’alchimie en 1937 dans la Lettre du Cosmopolite d’Alexandre Séthon, et commença à chercher la pierre philosophale dans la villa de Fontenay-sous-Bois qu’il habitait avec sa femme. En s’inspirant du symbolisme des alchimistes, il fabriqua aussi des images peintes et des objets en plâtre coloré de façon à imiter la matière du Grand Œuvre. En 1945, il exposa à la galerie Katia Granoff Le Temple du Mas, qui attira l’attention de Jean Dubuffet. Lors de l’Exposition Internationale du Surréalisme de 1947, il présenta chez Maeght Le Mas goth, figurant à la fois une double tête de Janus et une mandragore. André Breton lui demanda d’illustrer de trois eaux-fortes l’édition de luxe d’Arcane 17 (édition de 1947). Maurice Baskine inventa la « fantasophie », système de pensée comparable à une philosophie de la fantaisie (ou du fantasme). Se qualifiant de « dernier des Alchimistes, premier Fantasophe », Maurice Baskine était effarouché par le public : il demeura sans voix au début d’une conférence contre les prophéties de Nostradamus que ses amis surréalistes lui avaient demandé de faire à l’Hôtel Lutétia. Sa femme s’étant séparée de lui, il s’installa en 1951 dans la mansarde d’un immeuble du boulevard Edgar Quinet. Simone Collinet le soutint en lui organisant deux expositions à la galerie Furstenberg (en 1952 et en 1957), et une présentation d’un seul jour (le 6 octobre 1954) de son retable La Mère folle (Paris, Musée d’Art moderne). En 1964, Baskine exposa son triptyque Fantasophopolis (2 x 5m) à la rétrospective du Surréalisme de la galerie Charpentier, et en 1968, Le Conquérant de l’espace au Salon de Mai. Il a peint en technique mixte des séries : Androgynes, Les Travaux, Personnages aux sceaux, Ogives, Prophètes. Son principal collectionneur, Jean Saucet, montra en 1990 tout ce qu’il possédait de lui au Grenier du Chapitre de Cahors. Depuis lors, la plupart des œuvres de Mau-

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LES PEINTRES

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rice Basquine – y compris son album d’encres Bacchanales, ses suites Les Treize Heures de ma Mère l’Oye (36 planches), Cris de lumière captés dans l’Un-fini (33 planches) – sont conservées par le musée d’Art moderne de Cordes-sur-Ciel, dans le Tarn. Cette petite cité médiévale du temps des Cathares possède une Maison des Surréalistes où l’on peut se renseigner sur la fantasophie et voir le film Maurice Baskine de Jean Desvilles, commenté par Paul Sanda.

Hans BELLMER Né en 1902 à Katowice, Silésie, mort en 1975 à Paris.

Pour obéir à la volonté de son père qui était ingé-

nieur et voulait lui imposer ce métier, Bellmer dut travailler dans une mine de charbon, puis dans une aciérie, avant de s’inscrire en 1923 à la Technische Hochschule de Berlin. Il ne tarda pas à abandonner ses études, afin de se livrer tout entier à sa passion du dessin. Il s’initia à cet art auprès de George Grosz, et travailla comme typographe aux éditions Malik, réalisant aussi des illustrations et des couvertures de livres. En 1927, devenu dessinateur en publicité industrielle, il se maria et ouvrit une agence à Berlin-Karlshorst. Diverses circonstances – la découverte d’une caisse contenant ses jouets d’enfant, une représentation des Contes d’Hoffmann mis en scène par Max Reinhardt – l’incitèrent à inventer une « fille artificielle ». En 1933, décidant d’interrompre toute activité utile à l’État pour protester contre le nazisme, il entreprit la construction de cette poupée, avec l’aide de sa femme, de son frère et d’une petite cousine ; quelques manches à balais assemblés et articulés composèrent son squelette. Il la photographia en différentes positions, développa à son sujet une mythologie qu’il exprima dans un livre publié à compte d’auteur. Ces photos enthousiasmèrent les surréalistes, qui présentèrent sa Poupée en 1935 dans Minotaure. Bellmer poursuivit ses recherches, dans le but de recréer l’anatomie de la femme, fabriqua en 1937 une seconde Poupée com-

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LES PEINTRES

SURRÉALISTES

27 août 1938, en voulant séparer deux camarades prêts à en venir aux mains, Brauner perdit un œil en recevant une bouteille lancée par Dominguez. On s’aperçut alors qu’il avait prédit cet accident dans sa peinture : sept ans plus tôt, il avait fait son autoportrait avec un œil énucléé, et depuis, il avait peint toutes sortes de tableaux évoquant des scènes d’éborgnement. Le Dr Pierre Mabille, qui le soigna, a donné une interprétation psychanalytique de ces prémonitions dans L’Œil du peintre, article paru en 1939 dans Minotaure. Dès que Brauner put se remettre à peindre, il changea radicalement de manière ; il entra dans ce qu’on appelle sa « période des Chimères » ou « période des crépuscules », comportant des apparitions de créatures hallucinantes dans des lieux envahis par la pénombre. Pendant la guerre, réfugié dans un village des Basses-Alpes, il évolua vers une période magique, avec des scènes hiératiques, construites selon le symbolisme des hermètes (Stable Instable, 1942, Paris, Musée d’Art moderne), faisant des tableaux à la cire sur carton (Strigoï la somnambule, 1946 ; Progression pantaculaire, 1948, New York, Museum of Modern Art). Après avoir joué un rôle actif dans l’organisation de l’Exposition internationale du Surréalisme de 1947 chez Maeght, il rompit en 1948 avec le groupe surréaliste, et fit une importante rétrospective à la galerie Drouin. Il se lança dans un cycle de peintures autobiographiques, exprimant une mythologie égocentrique, débutant par son grand tableau La Rencontre avec moi-même. En 1951, il commença la série des Rétractés, visions d’angoisse extrêmement puissantes, puis son esprit se rassérénant, il aborda la période des Outils spirituels. Dans ses deux dernières expositions à la galerie Iolas à Paris, en 1964 et 1966, il avait réussi à renouveler complètement la technique et le contenu de son inspiration. Sa rétrospective itinérante, organisée en 1965 par le Museum des 20. Jahrhunderts de Vienne, accrut son prestige européen. Entre son atelier de Montmartre et sa propriété de Varengeville, il se livra à des

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LES PEINTRES

SURRÉALISTES

spéculations philosophico-lyriques sur la nature et l’homme qui allèrent souvent plus loin que le surréalisme proprement dit. L’État français étant devenu l’héritier de la plupart des œuvres de Victor Brauner grâce à la donation de sa veuve Jacqueline, le centre Georges-Pompidou a réalisé en 1996 l’exposition « Victor Brauner dans les collections du MNAM-CCI (accompagné d’un catalogue dirigé par Didier Semin), et a publié en 2005 l’énorme livre Victor Brauner, Écrits et correspondances 1938-1948, révélant une partie des archives de l’artiste qui y sont conservées.

André BRETON Né en 1896 à Tinchebray, mort en 1966 à Paris.

En 1913, il commença à Paris ses études de médecine qu’il continua pendant la guerre, où il fut affecté à un centre neurologique de Nantes, puis au service psychiatrique de la IIe Armée à Saint-Dizier. En relation avec Apollinaire et de jeunes poètes, il voulut d’emblée dégager les formes d’une poésie nouvelle, qui ne serait plus soumise au contrôle de la raison, mais se présenterait comme un message de l’inconscient. Il fonda en 1919 la revue Littérature avec Louis Aragon et Philippe Soupault, et en fit son premier organe de combat. Accueillant à Paris Tzara, le responsable du dadaïsme, il prit la tête du mouvement Dada parisien de 1920 à 1922, contribuant à lui donner toute sa violence polémique. Il condamna ensuite Dada, qu’il jugeait insuffisant en regard des nécessités modernes, et se lança avec ses amis dans l’aventure surréaliste. En 1924, il publia le Manifeste du surréalisme et fonda la Révolution surréaliste ; une suite de manifestations, de scandales, de tracts, appuya les revendications de tous ces créateurs. Dans le Surréalisme et la Peinture (1929), livre annonciateur d’un autre art de vision, il demanda aux peintres de ne plus chercher leur modèle audehors, mais exclusivement au-dedans d’eux-mêmes. Affirmant ses conceptions par des conférences à Bruxelles, à Prague et à Mexico, par des ouvrages de

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LES PEINTRES

SURRÉALISTES

LES PEINTRES

lui dicta ses tableaux, comme Six apparition de Lénine sur un piano (1931, Paris, Musée d’Art moderne), ses livres, comme La Femme visible (1931) et La Conquête de l’Irrationnel (1935), et même tous ses actes. C’est au nom de la « paranoïa critique » que Dalí apparaîtra dans un scaphandre, tenant en laisse deux lévriers blancs, à l’Exposition surréaliste de Londres en 1936, ou qu’il débarquera à New York en brandissant un pain de 2,50 m fabriqué pour la circonstance. De 1940 à 1945, réfugié aux Etats-Unis et vivant près de Hollywood, il poursuivit son entreprise frénétique : c’est là qu’il reçut l’anathème d’André Breton le surnommant « Avida Dollars » et le rejetant du surréalisme à cause de sa vénalité. À son retour en Europe, Dalí appliqua l’activité « paranoïaque-critique » à l’exaltation de thèmes monarchistes et religieux. Sa « période mystique » débuta avec La Madone de Port Lligat (1950), où il représenta Gala en Madone, et avec la publication en latin de son Manifeste mystique (1951). Elle fut doublée d’une « période nucléaire » qui s’amorça avec Tête raphaélesque éclatée (1951). Ensuite, il n’a cessé de faire succéder des manifestations diverses – conférence en décembre 1955 à la Sorbonne sur l’analogie entre le rhinocéros et le chou-fleur, organisation à l’hôtel Meurice, en 1967, d’une exposition de « peintres-pompiers », etc. –, des œuvres originales – illustration de Don Quichotte en se servant d’une arquebuse aux balles remplies d’encre –, et des autobiographies du genre de Journal d’un génie. Ses créations ultérieures, comme les quarante-deux gravures de son Hommage à Dürer (1971) ou son livre de cuisine illustré de collage Les Dîners de Gala (1971), témoignent encore d’un curieux alliage de tradition académique et de sens inné de l’avant-garde. Sa virtuosité se déploya également dans une huile sur toile, Dalí de dos peignant Gala de dos éternisée par six cornées virtuelles provisoirement réfléchies par six miroirs (1972-1973, Figueras, fondation GalaSalvador Dalí), œuvre stéréoscopique en deux panneaux, l’un pour l’œil droit, l’autre pour l’œil gauche.

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SURRÉALISTES

Nommé marquis de Pubol par le roi Juan Carlos, Dalí prépara son musée de Figueras en résidant dans sa maison de Port Lligat. Le 10 juin 1982, la mort de Gala, âgée de quatre-vingt-huit ans, lui provoqua un choc terrible. Il n’arriva plus à peindre et, après avoir été gravement brûlé dans l’incendie de sa chambre le 30 avril 1984, termina sa vie en se claustrant dans la Tour Galatea de son musée.

Frédéric DELANGLADE Né en 1907 à Bordeaux, mort en 1970 à Montfavet.

Fils du chansonnier Jean Marsac, directeur du cabaret La Lune rousse, il se consacra à la peinture dès 1928 à Paris. Sa première exposition à la galerie Esperanza, en 1932, fit dire de lui : "Il peint comme il rêve". Il suivit pendant quatre ans l’enseignement psychiatrique de l’hôpital Sainte-Anne, où il exécuta en 1936 une fresque pour les murs de la salle de garde. En présentant au Salon des Surindépendants son Appareil à liquider les complexes, il intéressa André Breton qui l’accueillit aussitôt dans le groupe surréaliste. En 1939, Delanglade fut l’organisateur de l’exposition Le Rêve dans l’art et la littérature, à la Galerie contemporaine, 36 rue de Seine, où il montra beaucoup de dessins d’aliénés. Pendant la guerre, fait prisonnier par les Allemands, il se servit d’une bougie allumée pour dessiner au noir de fumée, en déclarant : « Ni les tortures, ni les prisons ne contraindront la marche irrésistible de mes rêves. » Il s’évada du camp de Bar-le-Duc, résida en 1941 à Marseille et y participa à la réalisation du jeu de cartes des surréalistes. Ce fut d’ailleurs lui, quand André Dimanche les édita, qui unifia le trait de tous les dessins afin d’harmoniser l’ensemble. En 1942, il se cacha dans l’asile de Rodez dirigé par son ami le docteur Gaston Ferdière, et eut une bonne influence sur Antonin Artaud, qu’il incita à dessiner : « Je l’entraînai dans l’atelier où je peignais en dehors de toute contrainte, pour “l’amuser” avec des couleurs. C’est là qu’il esquissa avec un grand soin mon portrait au fusain, qu’il effaça et recommença plusieurs fois. »

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Ansel Adams IN COLOR Ansel Adams

The revised and expanded edition of the only book of Ansel Adams’s color photography, beautifully redesigned and including previously unpublished images.

!NSELĂ&#x;!DAMSĂ&#x;INĂ&#x;#OLOR =joah =`]io( =j`na] C* Opehhi]j $a`epkn%( Fkdj L* O_d]aban $a`epkn% 0./$'$*(-$',-+($' *,%'' +*%'' `e :XeX[X › G_fkf^iXg_p › (' o / › (-/ gX^\j .) +&Z g_fkfj › I`^_kj1 Nfic[ › <[`kfi1 D`Z_X\c JXe[

MARKETING

Renowned as America’s pre-eminent black-and-white landscape photographer, Ansel Adams began to photograph in color soon after Kodachrome ďŹ lm was invented in the mid 1930s. He made nearly 3,500 color photographs, a small fraction of which were published for the ďŹ rst time in the 1993 edition of ANSEL ADAMS IN COLOR. In this newly revised and expanded edition, 20 unpublished photographs have been added. New digital scanning and printing technologies also mean that the book now offers a more faithful representation of Adams’s color photography.

s 4HE ORIGINAL EDITION OF ANSEL ADAMS IN COLOR (978-0-821-21980-5, LB, 1993), sold over 100,000 copies and was called “an instant collectibleâ€? by the Chicago Tribune. s &OLLOWING THE FORMAT OF THE New York Times bestselling Ansel Adams: 400 Photographs (978-0-316-11772-2, LB, 2007), this edition features a modern design by Lance Hidy and a signiďŹ cantly lower price point than the original. s *OHN 0 3CHAEFER PRESIDENT EMERITUS OF THE 5NIVERSITY OF !RIZONA HAS BEEN A 4RUSTEE OF THE !NSEL !DAMS 4RUST FOR 30 years. Andrea G. Stillman, who worked with Adams in the 1970s, is the foremost expert on his work.

Publicity National print and online media campaign

Ansel Adams (1902–1984) was the most celebrated American photographer of the 20th century.

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Id iV`Z [jaa VYkVciV\Z d[ i]Z hjcg^hZ Xdadgh dc i]Z YjcZh > ldg`ZY Çghi l^i] ) * @dYVX]gdbZ#### I]Zc! l^i]dji bdk" ^c\ i]Z XVbZgV! > bVYZ hZkZgVa ZmedhjgZh l^i] WaVX`"VcY" l]^iZ Çab#### L^i]^c Ç[iZZc b^cjiZh i]Z a^\]i ÈViiZcZY dji dc i]Z YjcZh VcY > bdkZY WVX` id bn XVg i]gdj\] .% ; VcY bdgZ d[ i]Z 9ZVi] KVaaZn ]ZVi#### 9ZhXg^ei^dc d[ iV`^c\ HVcY 9jcZh! Hjcg^hZ! 9ZVi] KVaaZn CVi^dc" Va BdcjbZci! 8Va^[dgc^V ^c &.)-0 [gdb :mVbeaZh/ I]Z BV`^c\ d[ )% E]did\gVe]h 7dhidc/ A^iiaZ! 7gdlc VcY 8dbeVcn! &.-( ! ee# *,·*7Za^ZkZ ^i dg cdi»Vcdi]Zg Wdd` >YZV [dg &.*& I]Z egded" h^i^dc lVh Çghi Y^hXjhhZY i]^h bdgc^c\! VcY Vi ) EB > lVh Vh`ZY id lg^iZ ndj VWdji ^i# 7g^ZÈn! ^i ^h i]^h/ GdaVcY BZnZg! l]d ]Vh egdYjXZY i]Z HiVcYVgY D^a HXZc^X K^Zlh d[ i]Z LZhi hZg^Zh l]^X] lVh dcZ d[ i]Z bdhi edejaVg VYkZgi^h^c\ XVbeV^\ch ^c gZXZci nZVgh iZaah bZ i]Vi HiVc" YVgY D^a ^h Vcm^djh id iV`Z je i]Z hZg^Zh V\V^c# I]Z hZeVgViZ k^Zlh VgZ dcZ i]^c\! Wji i]Z ^YZV d[ V Wdd` dc i]Z CVi^dcVa EVg`h»X]^ZÈn ^c Xdadg»VcY l^i] YZÇc^i^kZ iZmi Wn V lZaa" `cdlc lg^iZg hi^bjaViZY i]Z^g ViiZci^dc# I]Z egdedh^i^dc Y^hXjhhZY [daadlh/ &# > ]VkZ ]jcYgZYh d[ [VXijVa e^XijgZh d[ i]Z EVg`h»Wdi] WaVX`"VcY"l]^iZ VcY ^c Xdadg»l]^X] l^aa cdi WZ jhZY ^c BN 86B:G6 >C I=: C6I>DC6A E6G@H#### '# Cdl!###i]Z HiVcYVgY D^a 8dbeVcn d[ 8Va^[dgc^V ZciZgiV^ch 142

i]Z ^YZV d[ Yd^c\ hjX] V Wdd` l^i] Zbe]Vh^h dc Xdadg # I]Z i^iaZ eV\Z ldjaY WZ hdbZi]^c\ a^`Z i]^h/ I=: C6I>DC6A E6G@H»DJG C6I>DC6A =:G>I6<: IZmi Wn 7ZgcVgY 9Z Kdid E]did\gVe]h Wn 6chZa 6YVbh#### )# L^i]dji Xdbb^ibZci dc ndjg eVgi! l^aa ndj iZaa bZ ^[ ndj i]^c` i]^h ^YZV ]Vh bZg^i# >[ hd! ^i l^aa \^kZ bZ hdbZi]^c\ id ldg` dc# > ]VkZ bdhi d[ i]Z e^XijgZh0 cdi]^c\ cZZY WZ YdcZ dc i]Z e]did\gVe]h jci^a i]Z egZhZci Wdd`h VgZ Çc" ^h]ZY# >[ i]Z ^YZV ^ciZgZhih ndj! lZ l^aa \d V[iZg 9Z Kdid VcY ldg` dji hdbZ WVh^X eaVc# >i l^aa WZ V edejaVg Wdd` VcY ^c cd lVn XdcÈ^Xi l^i] i]Z BN 86B:G6 hZg^Zh# AZiiZg id EVja 7gdd`h! :Y^idg! =dj\]idc B^[Å^c 8dbeVcn! ?VcjVgn &-! &.*% > ]VkZ YdcZ i]Z Edeen 8dadgVbV PhZZ eV\Z '%R0 i]Vi ^h! > ]VkZ bVYZ i]Z e^XijgZh»VcY > ]deZ id <VlY i]Zn a^`Z i]Zb I]Z XdcY^i^dch lZgZ VWhdajiZan VciV\dc^hi^X i]gdj\]dji# Bn Eg^bZkVa LdgaY ^h aZii^c\ bZ Ydlc I]Z eZdeaZ lZgZ D@! Wji i]Z lZVi]Zg VcY i]Z YZVgi] d[ edde^Zh > hi^aa ]VkZ i]Z cVi^dcVa VY id Yd! Wji > Vb hXVgZY id YZVi] d[ ^i Vh ^i ^h kZgn ]VgY id ÇcY Vcni]^c\ ajh] ]ZgZVWdjih# > lZci lZaa dkZg (%%% b^aZh add`^c\ [dg hj^iVWaZ VgZVh# > b^hhZY dcZ dg ild i]Vi lZgZ h]dgi"a^kZY VcY Yd^c\ i]Z^g hij[[ l]^aZ > lVh add`" ^c\ ZahZl]ZgZ# 7ji ^i ^h V W^\ hiViZ VcY edee^Zh VgZ hXVgXZ# ;gdb V aZiiZg id CVcXn CZl]Vaa! 6eg^a &-! &.*&! VWdji @dYV` VYkZgi^hZbZcih 4I J Q X S F DL P G U I F " S L BU 4 B MU $I V DL , n e a r J u n e au, " M B TL B , 194 8

143


A

landmark publication that sheds new light on the work and working methods of Norman Rockwell, America’s most celebrated illustrator. NORMAN ROCKWELL: BEHIND THE CAMERA is the first book to explore the meticulously composed and richly detailed photographs that Norman Rockwell used to create his famous artworks. Working alongside skilled photographers, Rockwell acted as director, carefully orchestrating models, selecting props, and choosing locations for the photographs—works of art in their own right—that served as the basis of his iconic images. In this groundbreaking book, author and historian Ron Schick delves into the archive of nearly 20,000 photographs housed at the Norman Rockwell Museum. Featuring reproductions of Rockwell’s black-and-white photographs and related full-color artworks, along with an incisive narrative and quotes from Rockwell models and family members, this book will intrigue anyone interested in photography, art, and Americana. • A tie-in touring exhibition opens at the Norman Rockwell Museum in Stockbridge, Massachusetts, in November 2009. • Rockwell’s study photographs have never been examined or collected for publication or exhibition. • The introduction is by Stephanie Plunkett, chief curator of the Norman Rockwell Museum. The foreword is by John Rockwell, Norman Rockwell’s grandson and president of the Norman Rockwell Family Agency.

Norman Rockwell: Behind the Camera Ron Schick Foreword by John Rockwell 978-0-316-00693-4

$40.00 ($49.99 in Canada) • Art • 9 x 11 • 224 pages 150 b/w photos, 60 4/c illustrations • Rights: World Editor: Michael Sand

Advance praise for NORMAN ROCKWELL: BEHIND THE CAMERA: “What a wonderful book this is—and what a rare behindthe-scenes look at the artistic process it provides. So many of the moments we see as impossibly idealized versions of us, are in fact us. Rockwell’s genius improves with this ‘backstage’ glance.”

M ARKETING Advertising Holiday Gift Book Catalogs

Publicity

ACADEMY AWARDWINNING DOCUMENTARY FILMMAKER KEN BURNS

National media campaign including print and online interviews

Web Marketing MADELINE VAN HAAFTEN-SCHICK

e-newsletters, giveaways, social networks

OCTOBER HARDCOVER

24 |

L I T T L E , B R OW N A N D CO M PA N Y

Ron Schick is a writer, designer, editor, and independent curator specializing in the visual arts. He lives in New York. | 24



NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA


NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA RON SCHICK FOREWORD BY JOHN ROCKWELL INTRODUCTION BY STEPHANIE HABOUSH PLUNKETT

LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY NEW YORK ™ BOSTON ™ LONDON


Contents

;DG BN ;6B>AN

&OREWORD COPYRIGHT ˆ BY THE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL &AMILY !GENCY 4EXT EXCEPT AS OTHERWISE SPECI½ED COPYRIGHT ˆ BY 2ON 3CHICK

&OREWORD BY *OHN 2OCKWELL

) NTRODUCTION 4HE )LLUSTRATOR AND THE #AMERA BY 3TEPHANIE (ABOUSH 0LUNKETT

.ORMAN 2OCKWELL "EHIND THE #AMERA

CHAPTER )LLUSTRATIONS AND &EATURES

CHAPTER 7ORLD 7AR ))

CHAPTER 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST #OVERS 4HE !RLINGTON 9EARS

CREATING AUTHENTICITY

THE ARTIST AS DIRECTOR

CHAPTER !DVERTISEMENTS AND #OMMERCIAL #OMMISSIONS

CHAPTER 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST #OVERS 4HE 3TOCKBRIDGE 9EARS

ROCKWELL THE LITERALIST

CHAPTER ,//+ -AGAZINE

!FTERWORD !CKNOWLEDGMENTS .OTES .OTES TO THE #APTIONS 3ELECTED "IBLIOGRAPHY #REDITS )NDEX

%SSAY ON PAGES ¯ COPYRIGHT ˆ BY .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 3TOCKBRIDGE -ASSACHUSETTS 0AINTINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY .ORMAN 2OCKWELL PRINTED BY PERMISSION OF AND COPYRIGHT ˆ BY THE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL &AMILY !GENCY 1UOTATIONS FROM THE WRITINGS OF .ORMAN 2OCKWELL OTHER THAN THOSE EXCERPTED FROM 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL ARE PRINTED BY PERMISSION OF THE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL &AMILY !GENCY AND ARE COPYRIGHT ˆ BY THE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL &AMILY !GENCY 0ERMISSION GRANTED TO USE EXCERPTS FROM 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL (OW ) -AKE A 0ICTURE BY .ORMAN 2OCKWELL ˆ &AMOUS !RTISTS 3CHOOL DIVISION OF #ORTINA ,EARNING )NTERNATIONAL )NC 4HESE EXCERPTS ARE LISTED IN THE 4EXT #REDITS ON PAGE !LL RIGHTS RESERVED %XCEPT AS PERMITTED UNDER THE 5 3 #OPYRIGHT !CT OF NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED DISTRIBUTED OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS OR STORED IN A DATABASE OR RETRIEVAL SYSTEM WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER ,ITTLE "ROWN AND #OMPANY (ACHETTE "OOK 'ROUP 0ARK !VENUE .EW 9ORK .9 6ISIT OUR 7EB SITE AT WWW (ACHETTE"OOK'ROUP COM &IRST %DITION /CTOBER ,ITTLE "ROWN AND #OMPANY IS A DIVISION OF (ACHETTE "OOK 'ROUP )NC 4HE ,ITTLE "ROWN NAME AND LOGO ARE TRADEMARKS OF (ACHETTE "OOK 'ROUP )NC ,IBRARY OF #ONGRESS #ATALOGING IN 0UBLICATION $ATA 3CHICK 2ON

.ORMAN 2OCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA 2ON 3CHICK ° ST ED

)NCLUDES BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES AND INDEX

)3".

P CM

2OCKWELL .ORMAN ¯ ° #RITICISM AND INTERPRETATION 0AINTING FROM PHOTOGRAPHS ) 4ITLE

.$ 2 3

° DC

FRONTISPIECE -ATHEW "RADY 0HOTOGRAPHING ,INCOLN 5NPUBLISHED CONTENTS PAGE 4HE #OMMON #OLD SEE P

$ESIGN BY -C#ALL !SSOCIATES 0RINTED IN 3INGAPORE


WAR NEWS, 1944 )NTENDED FOR 4HE 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST UNPUBLISHED .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA

WORLD WAR II


FIXING A FLAT, 1946

FRAMED, 1946

3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST COVER !UGUST 0RIVATE COLLECTION

3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST COVER -ARCH 4AUBMAN -USEUM OF !RT

.ORMAN 2OCKWELL TOOK 'ENE 0ELHAM ON LOCATION TO SHOOT DOZENS OF PHOTO GRAPHS FOR THE SETTING OF &IXING A &LAT BUT PHOTOGRAPHED THE MODELS IN HIS STUDIO 0ATTY 3CHAEFFER IN THIS IMAGE WAS THE DAUGHTER OF 2OCKWELL´S FRIEND AND FELLOW 0OST ARTIST -EAD 3CHAEFFER P

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA

7HEN 2OCKWELL WANTED TO PORTRAY A WALKING OR RUNNING ½GURE IT WAS UNREASONABLE TO EXPECT A MODEL PARTICULARLY AN AMATEUR TO HOLD SO AWKWARD AND UNSTABLE A POSE SO HE DEVISED A REPERTOIRE OF TRICKS TO MIMIC THE APPEARANCE OF MOTION (E OFTEN USED BOOKS PULLED FROM STUDIO SHELVES AS BLOCKS TO OBTAIN THE PRECISE ANGLE OF A WALKING FOOT WHILE RELIEVING STRESS ON THE MODEL "OOKS SCATTERED AT THE FEET OF THE MUSEUM GUARD SUGGEST 2OCKWELL HAD EXPERIMENTED WITH VARYING THICKNESSES TO PRODUCE THE RIGHT EFFECT

SATURDAY EVENING POST COVERS THE ARLINGTON YEARS


SOLITAIRE, 1950 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST COVER !UGUST #OPYRIGHT ˆ 3%03

2OCKWELL AND HIS PHOTOGRAPHER 'ENE 0ELHAM TRAVELED TO 7OODSTOCK .EW 9ORK TO PHOTOGRAPH HIS MODEL 4HE ARTIST´S VALISE STAMPED . 2 STANDS IN AS THE TRAVELING SALESMAN´S IMPROVISED CARD TABLE

SATURDAY EVENING POST COVERS THE ARLINGTON YEARS


BREAKFAST TABLE POLITICAL ARGUMENT, 1948 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST COVER /CTOBER (ARRY 3 4RUMAN ,IBRARY

$OMESTIC POLITICAL DISCORD IS ONE OF MANY THEMES 2OCKWELL REPRISED OVER THE YEARS (E HAD INTERPRETED IT TWICE BEFORE IN AND AGAIN IN /VER COPIES OF THE .EW 9ORK (ERALD 4RIBUNE AND THE "RATTLEBORO 2EFORMER THE COUPLE ARGUE ABOUT THEIR PREFERENCES IN THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION HE´S ½LIBUSTERING FOR $EWEY WHILE SHE SUPPORTS 4RUMAN 2OCKWELL LATER DECIDED THAT THE MALE SUBJECT IN THIS PHOTOGRAPH WAS THE WRONG TYPE FOR THE WIFE 7HEN FRIENDS CON½DED THAT A ±GIRL AS CUTE AS SHE IS WOULD NOT HAVE A HUSBAND LIKE HIM ² HE FOUND A NEW MALE MODEL

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA

SATURDAY EVENING POST COVERS THE ARLINGTON YEARS


AFTER THE PROM, 1957 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST COVER -AY 0RIVATE COLLECTION

2OCKWELL AGAIN SUCCUMBED TO THE URGE TO CARICATURE WITH !FTER THE 0ROM ±) CALL THIS MY CHINLESS PICTURE ² HE SAID 4HIS APPROACH WHICH HE LATER REGRETTED WAS PART OF THE ARTIST´S INTENTION FROM ITS EARLIEST STAGES (E ACHIEVED MUCH OF THE EFFECT OF CARICATURE BY RECRUITING MODELS WITH ½TTING PRO½LES WHO WERE PHOTOGRAPHED IN A SET BUILT IN 2OCKWELL´S -AIN 3TREET STUDIO 4WO AUTHENTIC DINER STOOLS WERE BORROWED TO COMPLETE THE SCENE

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA


THE FINAL IMPOSSIBILITY: MAN’S TRACKS ON THE MOON, 1969 ,//+ FEATURE ILLUSTRATION $ECEMBER .ATIONAL !IR AND 3PACE -USEUM 3MITHSONIAN )NSTITUTION

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA

LOOK MAGAZINE


APOLLO AND BEYOND, 1969 ,//+ ARTICLE ILLUSTRATION FOR ±!POLLO AND "EYOND ² BY !RTHUR # #LARKE *ULY

$URING HIS EIGHT YEARS WITH ,//+ 2OCKWELL EMBRACED THE PROGRAMS AND CONCERNS OF *OHN & +ENNEDY´S .EW &RONTIER AND ,YNDON *OHNSON´S 'REAT 3OCIETY )NTOLERANCE THE SPACE RACE AND THE 0EACE #ORPS WERE THEMES CLOSE TO THE ARTIST´S HEART 2OCKWELL´S MANY ILLUSTRATIONS FOR ,//+ DURING THE YEARS OF THE !POLLO PROGRAM REQUIRED PARTICULARLY ELABO RATE PLANNING AND .!3! WAS OBLIGING IN ITS SUPPORT OF THE

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA

ARTIST´S WORK (E BORROWED AUTHENTIC EQUIPMENT INCLUDING HELMETS AND SPACE SUITS TO ENSURE ACCURACY OF DETAIL !ND HE OBTAINED ACCESS TO AN !POLLO ,UNAR ,ANDER WHERE HE POSED HIS SPACE SUITED MODELS ! TARP HUNG IN THE BACK GROUND SUBSTITUTED FOR WHAT THE !POLLO ASTRONAUTS OFTEN REFERRED TO AS ±THE BLACK VELVET OF SPACE ²

LOOK MAGAZINE


Afterword

PP ¹.ORMAN 2OCKWELL 3AYS ³0AN !MERICAN 7AS -Y -AGIC #ARPET AROUND THE 7ORLD ´² !DVERTISEMENT P &IRST 3IGNS OF 3PRING 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST COVER -ARCH P 9OUNG "OY 9OUNG ,OVE #ALENDAR ILLUSTRATION

The Museum Reference Center at the Norman Rockwell Museum, custodian of the Rockwell family’s papers and ephemera, houses the artist’s collection of photographs and negatives. Many work prints survive, bearing telltale wear and tear from their use as daily tools in the hands of the artist and his assistants. More than eighteen thousand of Rockwell’s acetate-based negatives exist, albeit in deteriorating condition. With lead funding in from the federal Save America’s Treasures program, the museum has digitized the negative collection, an effort that has not only preserved this precious resource but has, for the ďŹ rst time, made these images accessible. I am grateful to have been among the ďŹ rst to explore this digital archive, making possible this book, whose realization I have imagined for a decade. The digital archive includes scans of negatives in formats ranging from ďŹ ve by seven inches to thirty-ďŹ ve millimeters. For selection and presentation in this volume, I have established protocols that respect both the integrity of the photographs and their function as working tools. Many of the images are reproduced full frame. In cases where the subject was photographed against a backdrop, commonly a folding screen, I have often framed the image at the edge of the backdrop, editing out extraneous information at the sides of the frame that the artist himself clearly intended to eliminate. The compositions of some images are so close to the ďŹ nished work that I have adjusted their framing to allow the photograph and painting to align. And, ďŹ nally, in several instances I have montaged details of separate photographs to illustrate how Rockwell combined images into a uniďŹ ed composition. Norman Rockwell did not log the dates his photographs were created; dates given are publication dates of the ďŹ nal work. Except where such information is relevant to the story of a particular image, I have not attempted to identify Rockwell’s many models. However, the memories many have shared with me in interviews conducted for this book have added detail and insight to my understanding of Norman Rockwell’s working method.

AFTERWORD


Acknowledgments

Notes

The contributions of many people have made this book possible. John Rockwell, representing the Norman Rockwell Family Agency, has been unfailingly supportive from the beginning, and I thank him for his enthusiastic participation at every stage. At Little, Brown and Company, my editor and friend, Michael Sand, deserves great credit and my gratitude for seeing the possibilities from the ďŹ rst and for steering this book to a happy conclusion. The contributions of Barbara Nelson, Zinzi Clemmons, and Peggy Freudenthal at Little, Brown have been invaluable. At the Norman Rockwell Museum, I thank Stephanie Haboush Plunkett, deputy director and chief curator, for her skillful shepherding of this endeavor through to publication and its parallel traveling exhibition, sponsored by the Norman Rockwell Museum. In the Museum Reference Center, Linda Szekely Pero’s knowledge of all facets of Rockwell’s work is limitless. I am grateful to Linda and Corry Kanzenberg for their collegial support, as well as to Rob Doane and Ellen Mazzer. I appreciate the generosity of the Rockwell models who have shared their time with me in interviews for this book. Ardis Edgerton Clark, Dick Clemens, Wray Gunn, Maurice Leavitt, Ed Locke, Betsy Campbell Manning, Smitty Pignatelli, Edward Schreiber, and Charlotte Ripley Sorenson brought a personal dimension to my understanding of Rockwell’s methods. I am grateful to Mary Whalen Leonard, who made me feel as though I were in the room as she posed in Rockwell’s studio. Particular thanks go to Norman Rockwell’s three sons, Tom, Peter, and Jarvis, for sharing their thoughts and recollections. Doug Munson and Oleg Baburin of Chicago Albumen Works, creators of the Rockwell negative scans, generously provided technical guidance. Jennifer Brown at Sotheby’s, David Blackmer of Curtis Publishing, Mary Seitz-Pagano at the Norman Rockwell Estate Licensing Company, Robert E. Livesey of Cortina Learning International, William N. Elam, III, Image Photos, Rosemary Schneyer and Barbara Allen of the Stockbridge Library, Kim von Tempsky and Ron Muromoto at Lahaina Galleries, Ronald Garmey of Nixon Peabody LLP, and M. Stephen Doherty of American Artist magazine each provided key elements for this publication. David Kassnoff

-EYER .ORMAN 2OCKWELL´S 0EOPLE

-EYER .ORMAN 2OCKWELL´S 0EOPLE

'UPTILL .ORMAN 2OCKWELL )LLUSTRATOR

3COVILL INTERVIEW BY 7OOD

" UECHNER .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !RTIST AND )LLUSTRATOR

0ETER 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW

2 OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

4OM 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW

¹ THE BEST LITTLE GIRL MODEL² 2OCKWELL 4HE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !LBUM

*ARVIS 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹AND WITH THAT² ,EONARD INTERVIEW

)BID

NOTES TO THE CAPTIONS

2 OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

¹ RELATIVELY EASY² 2OCKWELL 4HE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !LBUM

¹ ½FTY CENTS² 3TOLTZ .ORMAN 2OCKWELL AND ¹ 4HE 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST² 4HE ,ATER 9EARS

! RDIS %DGERTON #LARK INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹BETTER ILLUSTRATIONS² )BID

¹)RONICALLY² ,EONARD INTERVIEW

¹ 7HEN ) DO² 'UPTILL .ORMAN 2OCKWELL )LLUSTRATOR

¹) DID NOT UNDERSTAND² )BID

NORMAN ROCKWELL BEHIND THE CAMERA

)BID

3COVILL INTERVIEW BY 7OOD

'UPTILL .ORMAN 2OCKWELL )LLUSTRATOR

2 OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR )BID #OKE 4HE 0AINTER AND THE 0HOTOGRAPH 2 OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

at Eastman Kodak made Norman Rockwell’s Colorama photograph available, and Rachel Stuhlman, Kathy Connor, and Alison NordstrĂśm at George Eastman House helped unravel its history. Henry Sweets, curator of the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum, and Michael Hendricks of MBI/Easton Press made possible the inclusion of Rockwell’s Tom Sawyer illustration in my text. My thanks to Aileen Bastos at the Wadsworth Atheneum, Rebecca Davis at the Butler Institute of American Art, Leanne Hayden of the Berkshire Museum, Kate Igoe at the National Air and Space Museum, Ruth Janson of the Brooklyn Museum, Mary LaGue at the Taubman Museum of Art, Susan Nurse at the Memorial Art Gallery of the University of Rochester, Pauline Testerman at the Harry S. Truman Library, and Jenny Wilkinson and Amy Kesting at the Columbus Museum of Art for their assistance. I truly appreciate the skillful book design by Michelle W. Nix and Mark Nelson at Anthony McCall Associates; their sensitivity to the visual challenges of this material shines through in the ďŹ nal result. My personal thanks go to John Charles Thomas for his sound counsel and to Ken Werner for his advice and sharp red pencil. Finally, the greatest thanks go to my wife, Julia Van Haaften, and daughters, Madeline and Lauren.

¹ DISCARD ALL² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL ¹ $URING THE S² 2OCKWELL 4HE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !LBUM

2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

"ATTEN "ARTON (ALSEY )LLUSTRATING FOR THE 3ATURDAY %VENING 0OST

0 ETER 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹ DIDN´T ATTEMPT² 2OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

¹THE SECRET SERVICE² )BID

)BID

¹ 4HE SETTING² 'UPTILL .ORMAN 2OCKWELL )LLUSTRATOR

, AMONE SELF NARRATIVE C .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 2EFERENCE #ENTER 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

¹ ) PAINTED HIM² 2OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

)BID

¹ 4HE COVER ARTIST² 'UPTILL .ORMAN 2OCKWELL )LLUSTRATOR

3 COVILL INTERVIEW BY 0ETTEGREW .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 2EFERENCE #ENTER

¹ SOME OBJECTED² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

, AMONE INTERVIEW BY 7OOD .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 2EFERENCE #ENTER 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL 3 COVILL INTERVIEW BY 7OOD .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 2EFERENCE #ENTER 4 OM 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK 2 OCKWELL ADDRESS .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 2EFERENCE #ENTER ,AMONE INTERVIEW BY 7OOD 2 OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR ,AMONE SELF NARRATIVE )BID 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL )BID )BID )BID

¹ HE DID IT FOUR TIMES² 0ETER 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW ¹ 4HIS IS THE STORY² -ARY 7HALEN ,EONARD INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹ BECAUSE A LITTLE BOY² 2OCKWELL 4HE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !LBUM

¹ /BTAINING GOOD PHOTOGRAPHS² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL ¹ 'ENE 0ELHAM² 0ETER 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK ¹ A PRIM AND PROPER² "ETSY #AMPBELL -ANNING INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK ¹ (E HAD² %DWARD 3CHREIBER INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK ¹ IT WAS THE COVER² 3COVILL INTERVIEW BY 0ETTEGREW .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM 2EFERENCE #ENTER ¹ IN THEME² 2OCKWELL 4HE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !LBUM ¹ EMBARRASSED² -EYER .ORMAN 2OCKWELL´S 0EOPLE ¹) CALL THIS MY² )BID

¹ ) LIKE TO DO² 2OCKWELL 4HE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL !LBUM

¹ (E WOULD SELECT KIDS² %D ,OCKE INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK AND PANEL DISCUSSION MODEL REUNION AT .ORMAN 2OCKWELL -USEUM *ULY

¹ 'EORGE :IMMER² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

¹ SIT AT THE COUNTER² $ICK #LEMENS INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹ 4HERE WERE DETAILS² 2OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

¹ SIT IN THE CRUISER² %D ,OCKE INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹ ALMOST HUMOROUS MARRIAGE² (ENNESSEY AND +NUTSON

¹ 9OU´LL DO² !ADLAND ¹4O *IM &ROM .ORMAN 2OCKWELL ²

¹ THE HOTTEST DAY² 0ETER 2OCKWELL INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹ "EFORE A MODEL² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

¹ ) DO NOT WORK² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

HE DID RELUCTANTLY #LARIDGE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL

¹ GIRL AS CUTE² 2OCKWELL 2OCKWELL ON 2OCKWELL

¹ PAINT THE ")' PICTURE² 2OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

¹ ) USED MY NEIGHBORS² 2OCKWELL -Y !DVENTURES AS AN )LLUSTRATOR

¹ HUMAN BLOOD² 0ERO !MERICAN #HRONICLES

WORKING PHOTOGRAPHS -EYER .ORMAN 2OCKWELL´S 0EOPLE

¹ -R 2OCKWELL² 7RAY 'UNN INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹ ) INHERITED A LOT² !RDIS %DGERTON #LARK INTERVIEW BY 2ON 3CHICK

¹PATRONIZING² #LARIDGE .ORMAN 2OCKWELL

¹HE USED ME AS A MODEL² 7ES 3MITH ¹2AZZING THE #AMERA ²

NOTES


OCTOBER

the best short game instruction book ever! BY THE EDITORS OF GOLF MAGAZINE Most golfers make the short game—pitching, chipping, putting, and bunker shots—much more difficult than it has to be. The game becomes easy when players know the tricks to getting the ball close from 100 yards and in. These shortcuts are in every good player’s bag, and now the Top 100 Teachers open them up to readers in GOLF Magazine’s latest instruction manual: The Best Short Game Instruction Book Ever! The Top 100 teachers demonstrate: • 101 different ways to pitch with precision, drop bunker shots close, and chip from the rough and the fringe • The secrets pros use to turn tough putts into tap-ins. These methods are backed by the latest research by the brightest minds in the golf instruction business. The techniques are presented in an easy-tofollow format that makes the often-complicated short-game swing easier for recreational players to master, allowing them to execute quality shots without a second thought. The Best Short Game Instruction Book Ever! includes cutting-edge methods for saving strokes and classic instruction that has stood the test of time—bundled together for the first time. It’s the ultimate short-shot primer, and is guaranteed to get the ball in the hole every time. BONUS: 30-minute DVD! 34

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OCTOBER

remembering jackie BY THE EDITORS OF LIFE The life of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis was filled with drama, beauty, grace, and style. On the arm of the dashing young senator from Massachusetts—the man who would be President—she captured the nation’s imagination, and then its heart. LIFE magazine was there for every chapter in her thrilling journey; she made the magazine’s cover years before she made it to the White House. Here, in a pictorial biography featuring the work of several of LIFE’s most famous shooters, we re-visit not only the glorious years of Camelot in Washington, but also Jackie’s later life as a dedicated and proud mother to John Jr. and Caroline in New York City.

CATEGORY: Photography/Biography PUB MONTH: October PRICE: $17.95 US/ $21.95 CAN FORMAT: Hardcover PAGES: 128 SIZE: 6 ¼” x 8” ISBN 10: 1-60320-078-9 ISBN 13: 978-1-60320-078-3

MARKETING PLANS: ADVERTISING IN TIME INC. MAGAZINES

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OCTOBER

the classic collection: wonders of the world BY THE EDITORS OF LIFE In the new LIFE book, Wonders of the World, the editors return to the sites of the original Seven Wonders and then keep right on traveling around the globe—eventually visiting in words and pictures seven-times-seven Wonders, plus one more. With over 100 photographs, there are old wonders here and a new list offered by the New7Wonders Foundation, a Switzerland-based organization that conducted an online poll that saw more than a million votes cast for the world’s greatest Wonders. There are man-made Wonders and natural Wonders. There are obscure Wonders and famous Wonders.

includes 7 o rem vable prints

Finally, there are LIFE’s Seven Wonders, a classic collection if ever there was one. These vintage images from the famous LIFE magazine photography archive are presented as removable, collectible prints that are more than suitable for framing. When readers remove any print from the book, the picture still appears in place on the page beneath, so the elegant volume remains intact. This book, with its bonus prints, is something of a Wonder in and of itself. Fifty Wonders in all, each more wondrous than the last. A reader cannot help being amazed and inspired by what man’s industry has built through time, and what sublime Wonders nature has graced us with.

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CATEGORY: Photography/Travel PUB MONTH: October PRICE: $29.95 US/ $34.95 CAN FORMAT: Hardcover + 7 removable prints PAGES: 144 SIZE: 10” x 13 ½” ISBN 10: 1-60320-087-8 ISBN 13: 978-1-60320-087-5

MARKETING PLANS: NATIONAL PR CAMPAIGN • ADVERTISING IN TIME INC. MAGAZINES

n LIFE The Classic Collection Hardcover + Removable prints • 144 pages 10” x 13 ½” • $29.95 US/ $32.95 CAN ISBN 10: 1-60320-030-4; ISBN 13: 978-1-60320-030-1

TIME INC. HOME ENTERTAINMENT FRONTLIST

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ALSO AVAILABLE

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OCTOBER

angels and miracles heavenly messengers and extraordinary signs from God BY AMERICAN BIBLE SOCIETY Richly illustrated, Angels and Miracles presents brief excerpts from the Holy Scriptures depicting the many awesome ways God breaks into the natural world to make the His divine presence felt. Each excerpt is accompanied by helpful commentary that sheds light on how God uses angels (God’s messengers) and seemingly impossible events to communicate timeless truths to the faithful, the down-trodden, the lost—and even to God’s most stubborn enemies. Discover through these compelling stories how the ancients took courage from the heavenly beings they encountered and the miraculous events they witnessed. Were these the primitive beliefs of a bygone era? Or are they perhaps glimpses into another dimension, one that clashes with a modern Western worldview? Revisit these familiar stories and decide for yourself.

CATEGORY: Religion PUB MONTH: October PRICE: $25.95 US/ $30.95 CAN FORMAT: Hardcover PAGES: 128 SIZE: 8” x 10 7/8” ISBN 10: 1-60320-086-X ISBN 13: 978-1-60320-086-8

MARKETING PLANS: NATIONAL PRINT MEDIA CAMPAIGN • FEATURING ON BIBLES.COM • EMAIL TO 400M CHRISTIAN CONSTITUENTS OF AMERICAN BIBLE SOCIETY • FEATURING IN BIBLES.COM CATALOG (MAILED TO 50M CHURCHES, AND MISSION ORGANIZATIONS)

n AMERICAN BIBLE SOCIETY Bible Prophecies Hardcover • 128 Pages • 8” x 10 7/8” ISBN 10: 1-60320-068-1; ISBN 13: 978-1-60320-068-4 $24.95 US/ $27.95 CAN

TIME INC. HOME ENTERTAINMENT FRONTLIST

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ANGELS

I N T R O D U C T I O N T O T H E S U P E R N AT U R A L

Supernatural

INTRODUCTION TO THE SUPERNATURAL

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ANGELS

I N T R O D U C T I O N T O T H E S U P E R N AT U R A L

Miracles miracles why

An entire world spoken into existence, A sea parted, leaving a path of dry land in its wake, The dead brought back to life, The sick restored to health . . . These kinds of extraordinary events appear throughout the Bible. For those who witnessed them, these events, often referred to as miracles, were signs that pointed to a larger meaning. When Moses, for example, stumbled across something like a bush that burned but was not consumed, it not only got his attention—it gave credence to the message he received at the site.

THE BIBLE SPEAKS FOR ITSELF DEUTERONOMY 29:2–6

Moses called the nation of Israel together and told them: When you were in Egypt, you saw the LORD perform great miracles that caused trouble for the king, his officials, and everyone else in the country. He has even told you, “For 40 years I, the LORD, led you through the desert, but your clothes and your sandals didn’t wear out, and I gave you special food. I did these things so you would realize that I am your God.” But the LORD must give you a change of heart before you truly understand what you have seen and heard.

Likewise, for Judeans living in the first century, Jesus’ miracles drew attention to his ministry and revealed an authority and power the likes of which they had never seen before. The miracles of Jesus demonstrated God’s love for the people (Luke 4.18-21) and announced the presence of the Kingdom of God. JOB 37:4–7

In the ancient world, the extraordinary acts we refer to as miracles today were often unexplainable by the expectations, common at the time, of how nature works. Because of their extraordinary nature, these miracles got people’s attention, motivating them to consider the source. The events themselves did not create faith, but often were performed for those who already had faith, giving evidence of the hand of God at work on behalf of humanity. As we read about these miracles today, they invite us, as well, to consider a power beyond ourselves. EXODUS 34:10

A Reading from Deuteronomy 4:35–36 The LORD wants you to know he is the only true God, and he wants you to obey him. That’s why he let you see his mighty miracles and his fierce fire on earth, and why you heard his voice from that fire and from the sky.

The LORD said: I promise to perform miracles for you that have never been seen anywhere on earth. Neighboring nations will stand in fear and know that I was the one who did these marvelous things.

“God’s majestic voice thunders his commands, creating miracles too marvelous for us to understand. Snow and heavy rainstorms make us stop and think about God’s power.”

1 CHRONICLES 16:11–12

photo above: John Everett Millais Moses at the top of Mt. Horeb holding up his arms during the battle, assisted by Aaron and Hur.

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Trust the LORD and his mighty power. Worship him always. Remember his miracles and all his wonders and his fair decisions. 11


ANGELS

I N T R O D U C T I O N T O T H E S U P E R N AT U R A L

Supernatural supernatural fascination with the

Why are people fascinated with all things supernatural?

In all likelihood, because when we marvel or experience awe, we are intrigued by the thought of a world beyond the one we can experience.

Jesus worked many other miracles for his disciples, and not all of them are written in this book. But these are written so that you will put your faith in Jesus as the Messiah and the Son of God. If you have faith in him, you will have true life. – John 20:30–31

The thrill we feel at the possibility of the supernatural is somewhat like the thrill a child experiences when listening to a scary story— We feel the suspense of not knowing what will happen next, of considering a world where someone or something is not obliged to obey the laws we are bound to, and to know there might be something beyond what we experience with our five senses. The Bible is a book that offers questions as well as answers about the supernatural world. While the people who experienced the extraordinary events described throughout this book held a different perspective on them than the perspective of the modern world, their stories still speak to us. In this modern world where we have so many answers at our fingertips, these events remind us of the mystery that is a part of life and faith. A Reading from Mark 9:14-24 When Jesus and his three disciples came back down, they saw a large crowd around the other disciples.The teachers of the Law of Moses were arguing with them. The crowd was really surprised to see Jesus, and everyone hurried over to greet him. Jesus asked,“What are you arguing about?” Someone from the crowd answered,“Teacher, I brought my son to you. A demon keeps him from talking.Whenever the demon attacks my son, it throws him to the ground and makes him foam at the mouth and grit his teeth in pain.Then he becomes stiff. I asked your disciples to force out the demon, but they couldn’t do it.” Jesus said,“You people don’t have any faith! How much longer must I be with you?Why do I have to put up with you? Bring the boy to me.” They brought the boy, and as soon as the demon saw Jesus, it made the boy shake all over. He fell down and began rolling on the ground and foaming at the mouth. Jesus asked the boy’s father,“How long has he been like this?” The man answered,“Ever since he was a child.The demon has often tried to kill him by throwing him into a fire or into water. Please have pity and help us if you can!” Jesus replied,“Why do you say `if you can’? Anything is possible for someone who has faith!” Right away the boy’s father shouted,“I do have faith! Please help me to have even more.”

THE BIBLE SPEAKS FOR ITSELF MARK 16:20

Then the disciples left and preached everywhere. The Lord was with them, and the miracles they worked proved that their message was true. ACTS 14:3

Paul and Barnabas stayed there for a while, having faith in the Lord and bravely speaking his message. The Lord gave them the power to work miracles and wonders, and he showed that their message about his gift of undeserved grace was true.

photo above: Meister des Hitda-Evangeliars Evangeliar der Äbtissin Hitda von Meschede, Szene: Jesus und die Schwiegermutter Petri

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ANGELS

1

CHAPTER 1

MIRACLES

miracles Miracles C

H

A

P

T

E

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The word miracle usually brings to mind that which is thought impossible—that which defies the laws of nature. But the reason for a miracle is just as important as its occurrence.

Many Old Testament miracles were understood to be signs of God’s judgment—a catastrophic flood, the destruction of wicked cities, or the plagues of Egypt, for example. Others were viewed as God’s protection—the sun stopped in its tracks to help an army win or an enemy army struck blind. There were also miracles of deliverance and salvation. After leaving Egypt, the Israelites crossed the dry bed of a parted sea; they ate a steady diet of miraculously supplied quail and manna in the desert; and they experienced a deliverance from venomous snake bites. There were also great escapes, like Daniel’s deliverance from the lion’s den and the protection of his companions in the fiery furnace. The New Testament records many healing miracles, both during and after the ministry of Jesus. Those who were paralyzed walked again. The dead came back to life. Jesus also performed miracles to provide for people’s most basic needs—multiplying food and calming storms. All these miracles served to suggest a spiritual realm that exists beyond the world as we know it.

photo right: Marc Chagall The Crossing of the Red Sea 10

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Creation creation

ANGELS

When considering what many consider to be the miracles of the Bible, perhaps no account engenders more debate than the creation narrative of Genesis 1. Some view the account as an either/or kind of proposition—a scientific process or a God-induced process. For those ancients who first heard and interacted with this account, however, no such schism existed. These ancients viewed the world far more synthetically, more like a stage which both humanity and deity interacted with each other. However the modern world chooses to define the process used, according to Genesis, God spoke the world into existence. The first chapter of the Bible describes a six-day structure with God resting from his creative work on the seventh day. A Reading from Genesis 1:1–2:2

In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth . . . God said,“I command light to shine!” And light started shining. God . . . named the light “Day” and the darkness “Night” . . . —that was the first day. God said,“I command a dome to separate the water above it from the water below it.” And that’s what happened. God . . . named it “Sky” . . . —that was the second day. God said,“I command the water under the sky to come together in one place, so there will be dry ground” . . .“I command the earth to produce all kinds of plants, including fruit trees and grain.” And that’s what happened . . . —that was the third day. God said,“I command lights to appear in the sky and to separate day from night and to show the time for seasons, special days, and years . . .” God made two powerful lights, the brighter one to rule the day and the other to rule the night. He also made the stars . .. —that was the fourth day. God said,“I command the ocean to be full of living creatures, and I command birds to fly above the earth.” So God made the giant sea monsters and all the living creatures that swim in the ocean. He also made every kind of bird . . . —that was the fifth day. God said,“I command the earth to give life to all kinds of tame animals, wild animals, and reptiles” . . . God said,“Now we will make humans, and they will be like us.We will let them rule the fish, the birds, and all other living creatures” . . . God looked at what he had done. All of it was very good. . . . —that was the sixth day.

CHAPTER 1

MIRACLES

Miracle in the Mirror In the Genesis account, God made human beings on the sixth day of creation. Just as nature reveals a variety of designs working together to sustain life, the human body is like a curtain that, when pulled back, reveals one intricate system after another. We need look no further than our own reflection to see the mystery of God’s design. A drop of our blood contains about 250 million cells. There are 1,300 nerve endings in just one square inch of our hand. For the duration of our lives, our hearts never rest for more than a second.

Creation Described from a Different Point of View The Bible teaches that God created the world by his wisdom. Proverbs 8 is written from the first person perspective of Wisdom personified. In this account, Wisdom describes the world before it took the form that we recognize— oceans, springs, clouds, fields, dust—and describes her own role in the process.

PROVERBS 22:8-31 “ From the beginning, I was with the LORD. I was there before he began to create the earth. At the very first, the LORD gave life to me. When I was born, there were no oceans or springs of water. My birth was before mountains were formed or hills were put in place. It happened long before God had made the earth or any of its fields or even the dust. I was there when the LORD put the heavens in place and stretched the sky over the surface of the sea. I was with him when he placed the clouds in the sky and created the springs that fill the ocean. I was there when he set boundaries for the sea to make it obey him, and when he laid foundations to support the earth. I was right beside the LORD, helping him plan and build. I made him happy each day, and I was happy at his side. I was pleased with his world and pleased with its people.”

God said...

The typical adult human is an example of the miraculous. Made up of 206 bones, covered by twice as many muscles, the body has a system for breathing, blood circulation, digestion, health-preservation, and selfhealing. We wear our largest organ of all on the outside—our skin. The average adult has at least twenty square feet of it. Our skin is waterproof, self-repairing, and constantly shedding and renewing itself. The human body is yet another miracle in an already marvelous creation. Human blood cells in vein

So the heavens and the earth and everything else were created. By the seventh day God had finished his work, and so he rested.

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This book contains full-color illustrative photos, sidebars, and original, full-color sketches by Siriano.

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In 9/08 and 2/09, Sirano showed his Spring 2009 and Fall 2009 collections respectively, with sponsorship from LG, Sprint, Victoria’s Secret Beauty, and Cibu International. Currently, he is designing a couture collection to appear in the upcoming ďŹ lm Eloise in Paris, which stars Uma Thurman and is slated to begin ďŹ lming this year. In 9/09, Siriano will debut his exclusive makeup collection for Victoria’s Secret and will launch his ďŹ rst shoe collection for Payless.

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Christian Siriano’s trademark self-conďŹ dence and â€œďŹ‚air for the dramaâ€? has won him guest appearances on Ellen, Live with Regis & Kelly, Access Hollywood, Extra, E!, Late Night with Craig Ferguson, The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, and feature coverage in national publications, including Entertainment Weekly, People, US Weekly, TV Guide, Page Six Magazine, New York, OK!, New York Post, Washington Post, USA TODAY, and many others. He was also the subject of an episode of Ugly Betty, on which he made a guest appearance.

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FIERCE STYLE includes a foreword by Tim Gunn, as well as fashion tips from Victoria Beckham, Nina Garcia, Heidi Klum, Vanessa Williams, and other industry icons.

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GRAND CENTRAL PUBLISHING HARDCOVER

OCTOBER

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TO W O H YOUR BE ST MO ULOUS FABF SEL

N A I T S I R H C IRIANO S

UNN ALSH G WITH M W TI IE D BY BY BRAD RENN R L O L W PHY DYBA FORE GRA OTO H P L INA ORIG

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(FABULOUS!) FOREWORD BY TIM GUNN INTRODUCTION

viii 1

PART ONE:

PART THREE:

Every Day Is a Runway . . . Work It

129

Lady, You Look Fabulous!!!!

5

10 TAKE CHANCES

130

1 FINDING YOUR PERSONAL STYLE

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11 FINDING YOUR PATH

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2 THE DOS AND DON’TS

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12 BRINGING THE FIERCENESS TO THE REAL WORLD

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3 PICK A SIGNATURE

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13 CONCLUSION: TURNING IT OFF

172

4 SHOP, SHOP, SHOP!

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PART FOUR:

5 LEARN FROM THE PROS

74

Inspire Me!!!!

6 CONCLUSION: DON’T BE BORING

82

PART TWO:

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CONTENTS

Finding Your Inner Ferocia

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7 BE TRUE TO YOURSELF

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175

14 MY INSPIRATIONS

176

15 FROM INSPIRATION TO GARMENT

206

16 CONCLUSION: FINDING YOUR OWN INSPIRATION

222

THE OFFICIAL CHRISTIAN SIRIANO GLOSSARY

227

8 FEEL GOOD ABOUT YOURSELF

104

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

236

9 CONCLUSION: THINKING BIG

126

PHOTO CREDITS

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PART ONE

Lady, You Look Fabulous!!!!

Looking fierce* is the obvious place to start.

After all, people notice how you look before they notice much else. And finding your

own look is more than just aesthetics—your clothes and your personal style make a statement to the world. Don’t you want to control whether the world sees you as

ferosh* or a hot tranny mess?* I thought so! 4 / INTRODUCTION

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If you were a theater-loving kid with a flair for the dramatic, you might be drawn to unexpected, high-impact looks like oversized collars or striking jewelry. Urban Outfitters has fun, inexpensive accessories, like big earrings and long beaded necklaces. A top from Urban with a pattern print and bold color is another good bet, or a pair of jeans in an unusual color, like purple or red, could be fun as well (though I still love classic black skinny jeans to offset a dramatic top). Maybe you’ve always been a real girlie-girl—the type of kid who would never go anywhere unless she was in a party dress. Today, your options for dressing in really feminine looks are endless! Romantic styles, like florals, lace, and ruffles are always girly and flirty. You can find ruffled dresses pretty much anywhere, but some good brands to start with include bebe, Rebecca Taylor, and Milly. And you can always go über-feminine in your accessories. If you want to step it up a notch on the sophistication scale, there is nothing more ladylike than a strand of pearls or two. And finally, for you former tomboys out there, you might embrace a menswear-inspired look today. A wide-leg trouser pant (available in tons of places—check out H&M or department stores like Nordstrom, and Christian Siriano Spring 2009, of course) paired with a white button-down shirt can be a fun way to dress 8 / LADY, YOU LOOK FABULOUS!!!!

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Finding Your Personal Style

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my fashion horizons in a big way. I spent my days surrounded by

2 THE DOS AND DON’TS

crazy, fun people in the salon who would wear the wackiest things, These are the golden rules of looking

and I wanted to look just like them. At one point, I was wearing

fierce. Follow them and you’ll have an easier

mesh shirts from Hot Topic and sequined pants with zippers all

time shopping and putting together a fabulous

over them. (Oh my God, I was so gay!)

outfit every morning!

Looking back, when I worked at Bubbles I actually had a terrible sense of fashion. I thought I was totally cool, working at a really trendy salon and wearing the

Do: Take Chances!

craziest things I could get my hands on.

FEARLESS TIP:

Not so cute! But when you take chances,

Whether you consider

When you’re figuring out where you fit on the

you learn what works and what looks good

yourself preppy or

fashion spectrum, try to experiment. And do

on you, and you get to try on different

punky, conservative or

play around with fashion at any age. Any mom

personas.

or dad, grandma or grandpa, out there who wants to mix it up is fabulous.*

crazy, don’t put yourself

Bubbles was nothing like the outside

in one fashion box.

world. The people were so inspiring to me.

My own experimentation with fashion

They were fashionable and fabulous, and one of the main reasons

began in my sophomore year of high school,

I became interested in clothes. I’d always ask them what they were

when I started working at Bubbles salon in

wearing and where they bought their clothes because they looked

Annapolis, Maryland. So much of who I am

so different from most people in my prepster town. I was obsessed

today comes from my time at Bubbles. I went

with everything I saw, and even though I didn’t always get it right,

from dressing like most of the people in my

I tried things on, in every sense of the word, and continued build-

preppy town (can you imagine?!) to expanding

ing my look.

The Dos and Don’ts

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Don’t: Wear Fakes

You just have to work your way up. If you want to wear designers, start with smaller pieces—buy a wallet for $300 by an amaz-

Simply put, fakes are cheesy. They’re just not worth it. If you have

ing designer like Prada. (Their wallets are so chic and the leather

the money to buy a fabulous designer item, that’s great. If not,

is stunning—it’s a great piece to

there are infinite ways to look fabulous without breaking the bank.

start a collection.) Or tell Mom and

So there’s really no need to wear a phony designer piece. (Still, I

Dad that all you want for Christmas

It’s better to have one

used to be guilty of this fashion no-no: I once went to a flea mar-

is that one fabulous bag by Marc

amazing real piece that will

ket and bought dozens of fake designer pieces! What’s worse, I

Jacobs, Gucci, or YSL. Start small

last forever than a thousand

totally pretended they were real!)

and get that one thing that you can’t

fakes, no matter how

live without. If you have an authen-

authentic they may look.

FEARLESS TIP:

tic, classic Louis Vuitton bag, that’s something you can use all your life. (And when it’s older, it’s vintage and worth the same amount of money—maybe even more!) So if you do have a classic designer piece, keep it in good condition and hang on to it, lady! But don’t waste your time or money unless it’s the real thing.

26 / LADY, YOU LOOK FABULOUS!!!!

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The Dos and Don’ts

/ 27

5/27/09 12:50:06 PM


4 SHOP, SHOP, SHOP!

Have an idea for your look yet? Know what

to do and what not to do? Then you, my dear, are ready to hit the stores—as a fierce* shopper, that is.

Build Your Basics (IMP O RTA N T

NOT E:

The stores I’ll be nam-

ing here aren’t the be-all and end-all of shopping. I picked them because they’re all over the country, so no matter where you live you can build your own fierce style. But don’t forget to hit up the cool smaller stores in different cities for extraspecial finds. I love stores like Intermix and Opening Ceremony— located in New York City and L.A.—where you can find cool European lines. Always be on the lookout for fun, unusual boutiques in your travels!)

Shop, Shop, Shop!

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Stock Up

Keep in mind that your basics will change over time. When

Figure out what basics regularly go into your look (whether it’s

I lived in London, my basics were pointy-toed boots, weird pants,

jeans, cardigans, hoop earrings, or tailored jackets) and which

and black turtleneck sweaters. All the time! So remember that

ones you feel good wearing. Then stock up on them. This way, you

fashion is an evolution, and your basics can (and usually, they

won’t be agonizing in front of your closet every morning about

should) change from time to time.

what to wear! Your own personal basics will depend on what you’ve dis-

Accessory Basics

covered at this point. If you’ve done your homework (Ha! Listen

Don’t forget about your accessories

Fearless (Celebrity!) Tip

to me, I’m like a professor of fabulous!*) and you’ve been think-

when it comes to the basics. I love when

“I have three fashion tips. Your first

ing about what you love and what pieces you’re already wearing

a woman has an oversized bag for day-

instinct is often right. Don’t buy

regularly, reading fashion magazines, talking to people about their

time. Stock up on a few of those: one in

clothes, and checking out what’s in the stores, then you should

black, since it goes with everything; a

have a good idea of what your basics should be. Try to identify a

second in chocolate brown; and maybe

certain kind of top, bottom, shoe, and accessory, and stock up. (See

a third in a bright, fun color like royal blue to spice up an other-

pages 65–70 for where to buy ’em!)

wise ordinary outfit. You can have jewelry basics, too, like a certain

them if they are too high to wear. And always buy the correct size.” —WHOOPI GOLDBERG

My basics include T-shirts from American Apparel or Uniqlo,

style of earring or bracelet that you love. I’d recommend snapping

skinny jeans, and funky sneakers in gold or patent leather. That’s

up simple gold and silver necklaces with a single stone, bangles,

pretty much my uniform, so I’ve got several of each. If you love

and a chunky ring in any material. If you’ve got the basic cloth-

pencil skirts and button-down tops, buy a few of each. The more

ing pieces and the accessories, then you’re all set for the day, with

you have, the easier your morning routine will be—and you’ll still

minimal planning. Once I’ve gotten dressed, I add cool sneakers

look fabulous and put together.

like my black-and-gold patent pair, a black patent-leather belt, a big, crazy watch, and a fabulous bag, and I’m out the door!

52 / LADY, YOU LOOK FABULOUS!!!!

FS_2P_all.indd 52-53

Shop, Shop, Shop!

/ 53

5/27/09 12:50:16 PM


5 LEARN FROM THE PROS

Watch the Best Now that you’ve built a look and you’re shop-

ping your little heart out, you may want to look to

Here are some of Hollywood’s most fierce in

the stars for guidance. No, not the ones in the sky,

fashion—watch them and learn . . .

trannies,* the ones in Hollywood! The celebrities who have built fabulous* looks of their own can

Anna Wintour (the mysterious icon)

be some of the best people to learn from when it

Vogue editor Anna Wintour truly has an endless

comes to looking fierce.* Like anything else you

closet. She could wear anything by any designer

want to learn, it helps to look at the people who do

in the entire world! But even with infinite choices,

it really well. Like in sports—if you’re learning

she picks the trends best suited to her, and she

to ski, then why not watch the Winter Olympics

always wears the most fabulous sunglasses. They

on TV? You may be substi-

work for her because they’re signature Anna. FEARLESS TIP:

(Remember my tip on page 42: Have a wardrobe

To look your

signature!) It’s probably a bit of strategy, too,

the people at the top can only

fiercest, check out

since no one can tell what she’s thinking about

make you better.

the people who

a fashion show. Is it fabulous? Is it a hot mess?*

do it well, and

Who can tell behind those glasses?! Not only is

tuting bunny slopes for the giant slalom, but watching

emulate them.

she fierce, she’s mysterious. It’s her look and she rocks it constantly.

Learn From the Pros

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5/27/09 12:50:30 PM


Vivienne Westwood (the individual) Now her look is crazy! Vivienne Anne Hathaway (the quirky chameleon) Anne is superelegant for her age, and she’s totally old Hollywood. She reminds me of Jackie O. Totally gorg,* right? She could go to the Preakness in a giant hat, sunglasses, and pearls. But then the next day you could see her in a leather minidress! She’s very classy, so she can pull off all sorts of different looks and it’s never a trashy situation. I just love her—she’s quirky in a way. Quirky elegant!

wears all her own clothes: big muumuu-style, drapey, printed dresses and funky, high-heeled buckled boots, and her hair is dyed red-and-orange. So how does she manage to keep it fabulous when the same outfit would look a hot tranny mess* on someone else? Because (this is an important one, trannies, so take note) all fashion depends on who’s wearing it. Some clothes wear the person and some people wear the clothes. Vivienne’s been dressing this way since it was okay to wear crazy weird outfits back in the ’60s and ’70s (unlike today, when it’s cool to hate on what people wear). I totally admire her.

76 / LADY, YOU LOOK FABULOUS!!!!

FS_2P_all.indd 76-77

Learn From the Pros

/ 77

5/27/09 12:50:31 PM


Department Store Delights

Alright, divas, we need a quick time-out from all the talk of

If you’ve got the time and you want

makeup and high heels. We need to butch this book up a bit here.

an extraspecial conďŹ dence booster,

Even the manliest men deserve to feel ďŹ erce! So here are some

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(according to yours truly, anyway), and where to ďŹ nd ’em.

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artist’s job to create a fantasy for you,

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want to. So sit back and be pampered!

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how easy it can be to feel ďŹ erce. But don’t be cheap, lady—you’ve got to buy something. The tickity tack* women who sit at the counter and get a full face but don’t buy anything? That’s not cute!

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124 / FINDING YOUR INNER FEROCIA

FS_2P_all.indd 124-125

Feel Good About Yourself

/ 125

5/27/09 12:50:59 PM


I like to look at the big picture because I have big dreams.

9 CONCLUSION: THINKING BIG

And because I have big dreams—like wanting to become a famous Every once in a while, I don’t feel fierce* at all,

fashion designer who everyone wears—why would I listen to that

and there’s no easy fix to turn it around. There are

person who makes fun of me for having spiky hair? Or why would

always times when you’re not feeling confident or

I get depressed over a difficult week? I wouldn’t, because I’m look-

accomplished. It just depends on what’s happen-

ing at a big picture. Sometimes you just have to ride out the funk,

ing in your life. Personally, if I’m not making any

trannies,* and keep your eye on the prize. The fierce feeling will

clothes in a given week or I’m not doing a good

return! Trust.*

job on a piece that I’m working on, it can be completely frustrating. But you have to think about it like this: There are so many hours in a day, so many

Fearless (Celebrity!) Tip “Surround yourself with positive people. Negativity breeds negativity.

days in a week, so many weeks in a month, and so

Focus on what you want and where you want to be, not what you

many months in a year. I like to think about what’s

don’t want. This is a waste of time. You’d be surprised at how you

going to be, not necessarily what is at the moment.

will attract more confident people when you become confident

If I’m feeling really bad about something but it’s

yourself. I always tell people if you don’t believe in yourself, how

not going to be the same situation in a month or a year, then I just make the decision not to feel that

do you expect anyone else to believe in you?”.” —KIMBERLEY LOCKE

way. Why should I stress my day away about this one thing that’s bumming me out?

Conclusion: Thinking Big

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5/27/09 12:50:59 PM


Say them out loud if that helps you—remember, no paparazzi following you! Who. Cares. Even if you’re not Madonna, if you’ve got something to lose, it’s just a matter of considering the big picture. For my second collection at New York Fashion Week, I wasn’t going to throw caution to the wind and take a giant “Who cares?” risk, because as a new designer I can’t risk a giant mistake. So I took chances within my collection, just not in the same way that I would in a nothing-to-lose

Fearless (Celebrity!) Tips “I hear so many women say, ‘This isn’t

situation. I had three crazy ruf-

something I would normally wear,’ like

fled dresses in there—not thir-

that’s a bad thing. If you wear it, it is

teen. When I’ve had a few more

therefore something you would wear! So

collections behind me, I may take

the more you wear and do new things,

an edge-of-the-cliff risk and go

the more you can get away with.”

for some big, crazy theme and tell

—BECKI NEWTON

myself (and the critics), “Who

“Being comfortable in whatever you’re

cares?” But for my second collec-

wearing is the key in presenting yourself

tion and my third—Egyptianinspired—collection, I took risks where I could.

to others. I have fun on the red carpet and embrace whatever character I’m channeling. Could be a chanteuse, an opera diva, a flapper, or a flower child. But once you decide, commit to it!” —VANESSA WILLIAMS

136 / EVERY DAY IS A RUNWAY . . . WORK IT

FS_2P_all.indd 136-137

Take Chances

/ 137

5/27/09 12:51:04 PM


Then from that I decided, oh, I like bride! Bridal gowns are fun! I ended up making several more for friends, and a new opportunity was born. It came from networking and keeping my eye out for new opportunities.

164 / EVERY DAY IS A RUNWAY . . . WORK IT

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Bringing the Fierceness to the Real World

/ 165

5/27/09 12:51:19 PM


PART FOUR

Inspire Me!!!!

Well, my divas, by now you should be looking, feeling, and acting totally fierce.* But before you unleash all that fabulousness* out in the world, I want to share with you some fearless final reasons that I’ve become the person I am today—my inspirations. Inspirations are so important when it comes to being fierce. In determining the way that you look, feel, and act, you always need to be inspired. Inspirations are like your material for being a fierce diva! I’m sure you’ll be able to see how my inspirations influenced my style, personality, and designs, and I hope that it will get you thinking about what inspires you.

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Ferosh 1. The state of being when something is totally fabulous

Hot Mess When someone looks like a hot mess, he or she is kind

but not necessarily fierce. It’s often something you do, such as styl-

of hot . . . but not. (For example, “Lady, you are kind of cute and

ing your hair a certain way. This can make you extra ferosh. 2. The

you could be hot, but you’re wearing flats and cutoff jeans, so

doing or making of something to enhance one’s fabulousness, not

you’re a hot mess.”) Note: Being a hot mess is better than being

exceeding a fierce point. (For example, “Girl, your hair is looking

a flat-out mess. I mean, at least you could be fabulous. It’s such

ferosh today!”). 3. An abbreviation for “Ferocia Coutura.” See also:

a waste! But there is always potential in a hot mess. See also: Hot

Ferocia Coutura

Tranny Mess

Fierce 1. I always say that fierce is not a definable word. It’s just a

Hot Tranny Mess When you’re a hot mess you don’t deserve to be

state of being. 2. The high point of being flawless and fabulous. 3.

a hot tranny mess, because if you’re a hot tranny mess, that means

Victoria Beckham. See also: Fabulous, Flawless

you’re extrafabulous. Because you’re diva’d out. (See my definition for “tranny.”) So when you’re a hot mess, you’re just a mess

Flawless Often refers to an article of clothing or Christian

with potential. But when you’re a hot tranny mess, you’re kinda

Louboutin heels. Complete perfection, like a seven-inch stiletto.

fabulous! And a mess. All at the same time. See also: Hot Mess,

People can look flawless, as well. Everyone aspires to be flawless,

Tranny

because it’s the highest level of perfection. Lady Pronounced “La-dy!” There is no gender to “lady.” No genGorg 1. Abbreviation for “gorgeous.” When you’re being fierce

der affiliation at all. You can be the manliest man in the world, but I

and fabulous, you probably don’t have time to say all the words in

call everyone “lady,” because everyone has that inner lady who needs

the English language, like “gorgeous”—that’s multiple syllables.

to wear full-length gloves and a bird hat. And even the manliest men

So I say “gorg!” Total time saver. And it’s cuter, too, right? 2. A

can be called “lady” because manly men know how to complain.

term of endearment; nickname. Alternate: Gorgey Gorg

If a big, burly man is out to dinner with his girlfriend and their

230 / The Official Christian Siriano Glossary

FS_2P_all.indd 230-231

The Official Christian Siriano Glossary

/ 231

5/27/09 12:51:55 PM


OCTOBER

the new secrets of style BY THE EDITORS OF INSTYLE Have you ever stood in front of a full closet and proclaimed, without irony, “I have nothing to wear!”? Have you wondered if women who always manage to look chic are simply born with great taste? The New Secrets of Style: The Complete Guide to Dressing Your Best Every Day takes the mystery out of fashion with straight-forward, simple strategies, and gives you the best tips and tricks from the experts who have made InStyle magazine today’s most popular style publication. The New Secrets of Style—revised and updated with hundreds of new photos and ideas—shows you how to develop true personal style that is always uncomplicated and figure out which looks work best for you. A clear and convenient reference of 20 fully illustrated chapters, The New Secrets of Style covers everything you need to know to dress well with piece-by-piece wardrobe analysis, and easy-to-read “flattery” charts. Plus shopping secrets, no-fail shoe rules, and tailoring, storage and care tips to make your stylish life even simpler. Inspirational celebrity images, how-to illustrations and photos of gorgeous, trend-proof clothes are presented within the fun and fact-filled pages.

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frontlistWIN09v3b.indd 29

n

29

3/5/09 7:30:15 PM



dresstk dresses

chapter 2 00

There is no easier and quicker way to look polished and pulled-together than to slip on aon slip dress. a dress. Wearing Wearing oneone requires requires littlelittle thought thought (no (no separates separates to coordinate) to coordinate) and owing and owing to itstoinnate its innate femininity, femininity, can be cananbeinstant an instant mood-lifter. mood-lifter. While While theythey generally cost morecost generally thanmore separates, than separates, dresses are dresses a worthy arewardrobe a worthy wardrobe investment investment due to their surprising due to theirversatility. surprisingA versatility. dress in a simple A dresscutis in a simple a greatcutis canvas a great that lets canvas youthat show lets off yourshow you personal off your style.personal Paired with style. a blazer, Paired itwith becomes a blazer, professional; it becomes professional; a leather jacket a telegraphs leather jacket fun;telegraphs and with afun; belted andcardigan, with a belted yourcardigan, look conveys yourpure look feminine conveys pure appeal. Bestappeal. feminine of all, a Best dressofisall, comfortable—airy a dress is comfortable—airy and light—making and light—making it an easy option it an for thoseoption easy days when for those you’re days looking whentoyou’re add alooking bit of spring to add toayour bit ofstep. spring to your step.

Bright shoes go a long way when paired with a classic little black dress. Ginnifer goodwin’s bold necklace adds yet another layer, and works well with her strapless neckline.

KEira knightley is effortless and cool in an elegant blue pattern. The simple, straight jacket contrasts beautifully with the soft, feminine lines of the dress.

The sleeveless day dress is a favorite of CAMILLA BELLE’s. It’s young, sophisticated and works everywhere. Pair an eyecatching print with a simple, classic belt and strappy shoes .

Eva Mendes shines in this stunning white gown. The turquoise necklace complements it perfectly. By keeping everything else simple, she lets the dress do all of the work. 2


Shift

chapter 2 | D r e s s e s

dress style primer

Dresses come in almost every shape imaginable. Below are core styles you should know to help you navigate through the options.

Full

A shape that took hold in the sixties (think Jackie O.), the shift is a slightly loose, straight dress with an un defined waist. Its hem hits just above or below the knee.

This full dress has a fitted torso paired with a pleated, ample skirt. Some skirts have layers underneath to give them a bell shape.

Wrap

Taking a cue from the traditional Japanese kimono, the wrap dress crisscrosses the front of the body and ties at the waist. It is a fitted style that highlights curves.

A-line

An A-line is essentially a shift with side seams that gently flare from the armhole down to the hemline, giving the dress a tent, or A, shape.

Shirtdress

Based on the silhouette of a man’s button-front shirt, a shirtdress can be collared or not, features front buttons and is often belted.

Empire Sheath Halter

Halter dresses are backless and tie at the nape of the neck. Beyond that, they can be long, short, fitted or loose.

3

A clean-cut, usually sleeveless dress— similar to a shift but cut closer to the body—with a nippedin waist and a kneelength hemline.

Strapless

A strapless dress may be full or fitted and short or long in length, but it will always have a bare, no-strap top that shows off the shoulders and décolleté.

An Empire dress has a high waistline that starts just below the bosom. Often if there are sleeves, they are narrow in shape for balance. Front gathers soften the silhouette.

4


chapter 2 | D r e s s e s

how to wear it

Belt it up

Add a Necklace

Work with Layers

A good dress can be worn many ways, giving it character and versatility. Depending upon your accessories, it can look dressed up or dressed down.

Accessorize it.

Flats, boots, sandals, colored tights with heels—your choice of shoe can take a simple tunic and make it look casual, gamine, tough or elegant. A bold, bright bag can transform an otherwise ordinary outfit. A dress with a clean neckline is a great way to show off a fun necklace, and a loose shape can be cinched in with an eye-catching belt. If your dress comes with a self-belt, try switching it for something that stands out. Opaque tights can make a dressy style more day-appropriate, while bold, colored tights add an element of fun.

Layer it.

What you put over or under a dress can transform it. A dark, slim knee-length coat can anchor a delicate chiffon shape; a pale-colored cardigan (belted or not) can soften up a deephued shift. Also consider layers under your dress. In colder weather, a slim turtleneck not only keeps you warm, but gives a shirtdress or tunic a classic twist, while in the summer, tank dresses that show a lot of skin can benefit from the coverage of a tank top layered underneath. Mix layers on top of and underneath your dress—have fun with it!

how to wear floral

matronly, To ensure that floral doesn’t come off too ssories. A take stock of the print, silhouette and acce sculptural skirt, fitted dress with a low-cut neckline and d than a floaty, for instance, will be far more sophisticate dowdy. multicolored number, which can seem fun, especially the • Be sure to keep accessories young and l is best. As for hee shoes. An ankle-strap platform or other bags, solid, neutral colors are ideal.

7

A solid green dress turns into an entirely different outfit with the addition of a bejeweled belt and a shimmery clutch—the perfect way to take an outfit from day to night.

Don’t be afraid to mix bright accessories with an already colorful dress. The contrast can be quite striking. A bold necklace makes for the perfect statement piece.

A white blouse is just one of many layering options to wear under a sleeveless dress; a black turtleneck is equally classic. For a flash of color, try red under a gray dress like this one. 8


chapter 2 | D RE s s e s

little black dress essentials

Since the twenties, women have relied on the allure of the little black dress for everything from work to dinner dates to red carpet moments. While simple options are usually best for everyday wear, donning an LBD after 5 o’clock calls for a little more.

Romantic

Chiffon, lace, tulle or feathers, soft silhouettes and accents including bows and ruffles are the components that make up highly feminine LBDs. Nothing says romance like rachel bilson’s ruffled, girly dress and strappy shoes. 9

Sophisticated

These dresses have architectural seam details and strong lines. They are best for the true minimalist (but can be punched up with playful accessories). Lucy Liu is chic in a classic, perfectly fitted dress paired with an elegant updo.

Sexy

This style often uses straps, plunging necklines and body-hugging cuts to accentuate everything. Keep it tasteful— a little goes a long way. charlize theron sizzles in a slew of straps. Simple, classic shoes balance the look.

Edgy

Asymmetrical necklines, short hemlines, strap details, grommets, jet beading and hints of leather can give LBDs a slightly tough stance. Heidi KLUM makes leather look elegant (and shows off her toned upper body , too). 10


/&8

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Stunningly elegant, warmly traditional, or coolly minimal, all living rooms have a major element in common—comfort. They are, obviously, rooms for living, for relaxing at the end of the day by reading, watching television, or enjoying a conversation with family and friends. So when it comes to furnishing this important space, focus on reality rather than fantasy. “Your living room should grow out of the needs of your daily life,â€? pioneering interior decorator Elsie de Wolfe wrote in her 1913 book The House in Good Taste. That advice from one of the design industry’s early doyennes holds true nearly a century later. If smart parties, memorable hors d’oeuvres, and the perfect little black dress are deďŹ ning aspects of your world, then a living room outďŹ tted with soignĂŠ antiques and luxu-

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Contents Style & substance: the best of elle decor

n

offers a unique, closer look at hundreds of dazzling

helpful trade secrets and essential inside information

rooms the magazine has published during its first

n

two decades. The book provides an intimate view

to advice and inspiring decorating ideas for every room

inside breathtaking homes from around the world

n

with 240 pages of striking images culled from the

list of the magazine’s favorite shops and websites for ev-

archives of ELLE DECOR —America’s most elegant

erything you need to furnish your home—from elegant

interiors magazine.

sofas and rugs to top-notch bath fixtures, lighting, and

A lush compendium of inspiring spaces, Style &

A-list designers, architects, and tastemakers reveal

User-friendly Style Guide boxes deliver experts’ how-

ELLE DECOR’s Sourcebook provides a comprehensive

paint—all in a wide range of price points

Substance is your room-by-room guide to living well.

ELLE DECOR is a chic, sophisticated guide to the best the

Showcasing points of view that range from classic to

design world has to offer. With a fresh international point

cutting-edge, the book focuses on inviting, personali-

of view, it has presented a wide spectrum of stylemakers,

ty-packed decorating and how to do it yourself. With

trendsetting interiors, and must-have home furnishings

ravishing photos and smart how-to advice from the

for the past 20 years. Reaching two million readers, the

magazine’s coterie of tastemakers and design experts,

magazine is the leading edition in a worldwide network of

it features page after page of fabulous yet functional

25 ELLE DECO publications, with an influence that extends

interiors that prove luxury needn’t be pricey and af-

to 26 countries on five continents. ELLE DECOR is pub-

fordable design can surely be chic.

lished by Hachette Filipacchi Media, U.S.

Foreword

7

Living Rooms

10

Family Rooms

50

Libraries and Home Offices

70

Dining Rooms

86

Kitchens

110

Bedrooms

140

Dressing Areas and Closets

170

Bathrooms

180

Children’s Rooms

210

Terraces, Gardens, and Pools

218

ELLE DECOR’s sourcebook 234 Credits AND Acknowledgments

238


Living Rooms Stunningly elegant, warmly traditional, or coolly minimal, all living rooms have a major element in common—comfort. They are, obviously, rooms for living, for relaxing at the end of the day by reading, watching television, or enjoying a conversation with family and friends. So when it comes to furnishing this important space, focus on reality rather than fantasy. “Your living room should grow out of the needs of your daily life,” pioneering interior decorator Elsie de Wolfe wrote in her 1913 book The House in Good Taste. That advice from one of the design industry’s early doyennes holds true nearly a century later. If smart parties, memorable hors d’oeuvres, and the perfect little black dress are defining aspects of your world, then a living room outfitted with soigné antiques and luxurious silk damasks could be the perfect setting. For homeowners whose lifestyles are easygoing and enlivened by children or pets, casual materials designed to age well and hold up to daily wear and tear might be more appropriate, among them crisp linen and cotton, hard-wearing wool-mohair, tough but sophisticated leather, even sturdy corduroy. Whether the desired atmosphere is practical or posh, though, certain common-sense rules apply. A variety of silhouettes and materials contributes energy and interest. Chairs and sofas should range from leanly tailored to invitingly plump, and a combination of wood, metal, and painted surfaces adds visual and tactile animation. Remember lighting is as much about task as it is about illumination, from casting the right amount of light to read a book to showcasing a work of art or a photo collection. Seek out occasional tables with character and place them within easy reach to offer guests somewhere to set a cup of coffee or a flute of Champagne. And personal treasures are always the essential finishing touch. n


OPPOSITE

The kitchen of jewelry designer Temple St. Clair Carr’s Manhattan townhouse features a custom-made stainless-steel hood and storage unit, Cararra-marble countertops, and a Wolf range. RIGHT

A vintage worktable and collection of French porcelain grace the kitchen of furniture designer Todd Hase’s Normandy château. BOTTOM RIGHT

The Millbrook, New York, kitchen of television director Jim Burrows is furnished with custom-made barstools and pot rack by Ann-Morris Antiques, sink fittings by Michael S. Smith for Kallista, and a range by Wolf. BELOW

Vintage metal stools and a print from Moss in the kitchen of actress Sarah Jessica Parker’s Bridgehampton, New York, weekend house; the range, hood, and dishwasher are by Viking. BOTTOM LEFT

Whitewashed pine cabinetry and bold Talavera tiles add warmth to a kitchen in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, decorated by Anne-Marie Midy and Jorge Almada.

“Kitchens should be designed around what’s truly important— fun, food, and life” – Chef Daniel Boulud


! le`hl\# `ek`dXk\ Z\c\YiXk`fe f]

Zfek\dgfiXip >i\\b Zl`j`e\ ]ifd Z_\] D`Z_X\c Gj`cXb`j# Ăˆk_\ >i\\b$8d\i`ZXe DXi`f 9XkXc`%É! J^[ D[m Oeha[h Bon AppĂŠtit named Greek the “Cuisine of the Yearâ€? in January 2008, and Psilakis is the leader of the movement. He is an owner of a growing empire of Mediterranean restaurants, including the only Michelin-star-rated Greek restaurant in America, New York City’s Anthos. In his much-anticipated ďŹ rst cookbook, the brilliant self-taught chef oers recipes from his restaurants and his home. Filled with heartfelt stories from Psilakis’s childhood and of his growth as a chef, HOW TO ROAST A LAMB provides a personal and irresistible introduction to the vibrant cooking of one of today’s hottest culinary stars and showcases the fresh, naturally healthful foods of the Mediterranean. Home cooks who gravitate to Italian cookbooks for the simple, user-friendly dishes, satisfying avors, and family-oriented meals will feel comfortable with Psilakis’s approach to Greek food, which uses familiar techniques and ingredients to create satisfying meals for any night of the week.

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t Psilakis was named a Food and Wine Best New Chef in 2008 and Chef of the Year by both Esquire and Bon AppĂŠtit magazines. t Bon AppĂŠtit named Greek the “Cuisine of the Yearâ€? in January 2008, writing: “Today’s Greek food is fresh and modern—just the thing for a great dinner party.â€?

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“Psilakis is surely the Thomas Keller of Greek cuisine.â€? ďšźTIME OUT NEW YORK

“Psilakis is in a class by himself.�

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Raised on Long Island, New York, by ďŹ rst generation Greek immigrants, Michael Psilakis co-owns four restaurants in Manhattan. He lives in New York City.



How to Roast a Lamb new greek classic cooking

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CONTENTS FOREWORD

viii x

ABOUT THE BOOK

xi

ABOUT THE RECIPES

xii

ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS 1

INTRODUCTION

15

MY FATHER’S GARDEN

Wild Bitter Greens, Roasted Peppers, Grilled Onion, Oil-marinated Dried Tomato & Kefalotiri 20 Sweet-&-Sour Eggplant & Onion Stew 22 Cucumber Salad, Celery, Leek & Tsakistes Olives with Lemon-Dill Vinaigrette 24 Shaved Fennel, Cabbage, Olive, Onion & Graviera Salad with Red Wine–Black Pepper Vinaigrette 25 Stewed English Peas & Mushrooms 27 Stewed String Beans, Zucchini & Potato 28 Grilled Summer Squash, Feta & Mint Salad 29 Grilled Watermelon & Grilled Manouri 30 Four Cheese–Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms 32 Bulgur Salad with Roasted Peppers, Capers, Raisins, Celery & Onion 34 Artichokes & Potato 36

OPEN WATER

39

Octopus, Salami & Apples with Anchovy Vinaigrette 44 Roasted Skate with Walnut Baklava, Yogurt & Candied Quince 46 Grilled Sardines with Chopped Salad & Skordalia Soup 47 Grilled Cuttlefish Stuffed with Rice & Spinach 49 Fried Red Mullet with Lentils, Lemon & Oil 50 Ouzo & Orange-Braised Snails 51 Grilled Swordfish with TomatoBraised Cauliflower 52 Cretan Spiced Tuna with Bulgur Salad 54 Roasted Scallops with Cauliflower, Tart Dried Cherries & Capers in Brown Butter Sauce 55 Roasted John Dory with Crab-Yogurt-Orzo Salad & Butternut Soup 56 Halibut, Fennel, Clams & Sausage with Fennel Broth 58

61

DINNER, FAMILY STYLE

Steak with Bone Marrow Htipiti 66 Beef Stew with Leeks 70 Pork Soffrito with Spicy Peppers & Cabbage 72 Souvlaki: Chicken & Pork Shish-Kebab 74 Manti: Ravioli of Four Cheeses with Crispy Shallots, Brown Butter & Sage 76 Shellfish Yiouvetsi 79 Dumplings with Sausage, Dandelion Greens, Sun-Dried Tomato & Pine Nuts 80

MY FIRST RECIPES

83

Whole Chicken Soup with Avgolemono & Orzo 88 Lentil Soup 90 White Bean Soup 92 Pasta with Kima 93 Whole Grilled Loup de Mer 96 Cod Skordalia with Pickled Beets 98 Hanger Steak with Braised Dandelion, Lemon & Oil 100 Sausage, Peppers, Onion & Tomato 102 Potato, Egg, Tomato & Peppers 103 Tomato & String Bean Salad 104 Dried Fruit Salad with Thyme-Honey Vinaigrette 107 Yogurt with Candied Quince & Crushed Jordan Almonds 108

THE HUNTING TRIP

111

Grilled Rabbit Confit 116 Rustic Braised Rabbit with Hilopites Pasta 118 Pheasant with Spaghetti 122 Roasted Pheasant with Candied Orange Peel & Leek Confit 123 Grilled Quails with Sweet-&-Sour Charred Onion & Red Wine Glaze 124 Braised Quail

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with Fennel & Apricots 128 Venison Stew 129 Venison Sausage 130 Rack of Venison with Leek Confit & Candied Cherries 133

A LAMB AND A GOAT

135

Roasted Leg of Lamb 142 Sun-Dried Tomato Crusted Loin of Lamb with Wilted Arugula & Tsatziki 145 Grilled Lamb Heart with Crispy & Shaved Fennel Salad 146 Braised Lamb Tongue with White Beans & Mushrooms 147 Grilled Lamb Chops 148 Kefi Lamb Gyro 150 Lamb Burger 152 French Fries 154 Poached Goat Avgolemono 155 Braised Goat 157 Open Goat Moussaka 158

161

PSILAKIS BIRTHDAY DINNERS

Lamb Shanks with Orzo 166 Spinach Rice 167 Pan-Roasted Chicken with Lemon Potatoes 170 Beef & Rice Meatballs in Egg-Lemon Soup 172 Stuffed Peppers with Beef & Rice 173 Stuffed Baby Eggplants 174 Grilled Porgies 175 Shrimp with Orzo & Tomato 176

KEFI — A TIME TO DANCE

179

Fried Pork & Beef Meatballs 184 Little Sausages 186 Eggplant Spread 188 Tsatziki 189 Fava Spread 190 Taramosalata 191 Chickpea Spread 194 Roasted Pepper & Feta Spread 195 Warm Feta with Tomato, Olive & Pepper Salad 196 Figs Stuffed with Feta Wrapped with Pasthourma 197 Fried Calamari & Whitebait with Crispy Chickpeas & Lemon 200 Sweetbreads with Caperberries, Artichokes & White Wine 201

BIG PARTY COOKING

203

Whole Spit-Roasted Lamb 208 Artichoke Fricassee 209 Pastitsio 212 Greek Salad 213 Spanakopita 214 Twice-Cooked Gigante Beans 215 Potatoes, Olives & Capers with Anchovy Vinaigrette 217 Octopus with Chickpea Salad 218 Striped Bass Plakin 219 Mussels with Gigante Beans & Feta 221

ANTHOS — THE NEW WORLD

223

Poached Halibut with Cypriot Shellfish Salad, Cucumber-Yogurt Broth & Caviar 228 Skordalia Potato-Garlic Soup with Crispy Bacaliero Confit & Beet Tartare 233 Raw Meze Platter: Tuna, Taylor Bay Scallops, Sardines, Hamachi & Botan Shrimp 236 Psarokorizo: Sea Urchin Tsatziki with Crab and Lobster Risotto with Yogurt & Caviar 246 Smoked Octopus with Fennel Purée, Lemon Confit & Pickled Vegetables 249 Anthos Shellfish Yiouvetsi 254 Braised Lamb Pastitsio 258

THE AGEAN PANTRY

263

Garlic Confit 264 Chickpea Confit 266 Fennel Confit 266 Artichoke Confit 267 Leek Confit 268 Ladolemono 270 Dried Lemon Zest 270 Cretan Spice Mix 270 Grilled Onions 270 Roasted Bell Peppers 270 Red Wine & Feta Vinaigrette 271 Lemon-Dill Vinaigrette 271 White Anchovy Vinaigrette 273 Red Wine–Black Pepper Vinaigrette 273 Greek Béchamel Sauce 274 Béchamel Sauce Without Eggs 276 Candied Cherries 276 Candied Quince 277 Candied Orange Peel 279

RECIPES BY TYPE OF DISH ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX

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280

282

283

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Foreword Barbara Kafka

I

t is a rare experience to find a brilliant new chef. Usually, they do not remain a secret. Instead, they become famous. I had this experience a few years ago when a friend told me that I

must try a new restaurant, Kefi. I did, and the friend was correct. Michael Psilakis, whose book you have in front of you, was the chef, and he had all the attributes of a great chef. The acclaim has come along with two more restaurants and the growth of Kefi from a small establishment to a larger one in a new location. The new restaurants are Anthos and Mia Dona. Go and enjoy. What are the attributes that make a great chef? First, there is a sound grasp of the many techniques that make a cooked food what it is; but technique is not enough. As with any major creative talent, great intelligence and passion are necessary. Michael has these and a love for his family and for what food means to him and them. It is creative. Based on the flavors he loves, he constantly creates variations and new dishes. The first recipe section of the book, crammed with delightful salads and vegetable dishes, illustrates the outcome of these talents. Many of these recipes are inspired by his dearly loved father’s ardent gardening. These foods are joyous with loving memories.

viii FOREWORD

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Psilakis family, 1979

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WILD BITTER GREENS, ROASTED PEPPERS, GRILLED ONION, OIL-MARINATED DRIED TOMATO & KEFALOTIRI HORTA ME PSITA PIPPERIA, KREMIDI STIN SXARA, LIASTES TOMATES, KAI KEFALOTIRI =----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------= SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A SIDE DISH, OR MORE FAMILY-STYLE, AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

Very, very simple. This is one of the most versatile salads I make. It goes well with any protein, and it functions like a vegetable and salad all in one. If you are doubling or tripling this dish—or any of my salads—for a large party, serve the dressing on the side, so that if there are any leftovers you can keep the greens fresh and bright. Once a salad is dressed, the vinegar begins to break down the greens and they’ll wilt if not used in a very short time. If you know you’ll eat all the salad right away, go ahead and toss with the dressing. If you use artisanal-quality oil-marinated roasted red peppers and artichokes from a jar, this recipe takes you almost no time at all and the result will be almost as good as if you made your own from scratch. Just be sure to buy premium European brands, and get the best greens possible. This is a fantastic side salad for grilled souvlaki. And by the way, souvlaki—shish kebab—doesn’t have to be pork or chicken; it can be beef, or lamb, or swordfish, or scallops, or shrimp.

1 small head frisée 2 cups baby arugula leaves 1 recipe Grilled Onions (page 270) 1 large fire-roasted red bell pepper (page 270) home-roasted or storebought, cut into strips 6 large sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thick strips 4 cloves Garlic Confit (page 264), optional

3 pieces Artichoke Confit (page 267), halved, or 6 halves oil-marinated artichokes from a jar, halved again 2 tablespoons small, picked sprigs parsley 2 tablespoons small, picked sprigs dill 6 leaves fresh mint ½ to ⅔ cup Red Wine–Black Pepper Vinaigrette (page 273) 2 ounces kefalotiri cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler into large shards

Wash the frisée and arugula, spin dry, and wrap in clean towels. Chill. Just before serving: In a large bowl, combine the grilled onions with all the ingredients, except the vinaigrette and half the kefalotiri, and toss gently with clean hands. Drizzle with about ½ cup of the vinaigrette, toss again gently but thoroughly, and taste. Season with salt and pepper, scatter with the remaining cheese, and serve immediately.

20

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SHAVED FENNEL, CABBAGE, OLIVE, ONION & GRAVIERA SALAD WITH RED WINE–BLACK PEPPER VINAIGRETTE MARATHO, LACHANO, ELIES, KREMMYDI, KAI GRAVIERA SALATA, MAVRO PIPEROKOKKO LADOKSIDO =----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------= SERVES 4, OR MORE FAMILY-STYLE, AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

I think of this as a sort of Greek coleslaw, only much brighter in flavors and far more exciting.

1 bulb fennel, trimmed 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ¼ head savoy cabbage, cored ⅔ cup cracked, brined green olives, such as tsakistes, pitted ⅔ cup oil-cured Thássos olives, pitted 4 ounces graviera cheese, coarsely grated

¼ cup small, picked sprigs dill 8 leaves fresh mint ¼ cup small, picked sprigs parsley ¼ cup small, picked sprigs thyme ½ to ⅔ cup Red Wine–Black Pepper Vinaigrette (page 273) Sea salt and cracked black pepper

With a mandoline or a very sharp knife, shave the whole bulb of fennel crosswise as thinly as possible (no need to remove the core). Transfer to a large bowl and drizzle with the lemon juice. Shave the cabbage lengthwise, and add. Pull the olives into rough pieces, and add them along with about two thirds of the cheese, dill, mint, parsley, and thyme. Drizzle with about ½ cup of the vinaigrette and toss aggressively with clean hands until all the ingredients are nicely coated. Season generously with sea salt and pepper, taste, and add a little more vinaigrette if you like (never so much that it pools in the bottom of the bowl). Transfer to a platter and top with the remaining cheese and fresh herbs.

ACIDITY IN GREEK FOOD One of the flavors that distinguishes Greek food and makes it bright and fresh is acidity, and often—but not always—it comes from lemon juice. You can serve things that are rich and slightly fatty—like one of the many wonderful confits—but in order to keep everyone’s taste buds alive and interested, you’ve got to cut that fattiness with acidity.

25

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STEWED ENGLISH PEAS & MUSHROOMS STIFADO APO ARAKAS KAI MANITARIA =----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------= SERVES 4, OR MORE FAMILY-STYLE, AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

To keep the fresh summer peas really green, you need to blanch and shock them in ice water. If you have a pasta strainer insert, it’s perfect for the peas because you can get them quickly into the ice water and keep that beautiful bright color and flavor and prevent them from becoming mushy. I prefer a light and fruity olive oil for this dish, rather than the full-bodied Greek olive oil I normally use. If you make this dish in the winter, you can use it with frozen petits pois and even add a little tomato paste and cinnamon—a very different dish but perfect for cool weather.

8 ounces small button mushrooms 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 large shallot, chopped 8 ounces whole pearl onions, peeled, or thawed frozen pearl onions ½ cup white wine 2 cups water (1 cup only if using frozen pearl onions) 1 large sprig thyme

10 ounces shelled English peas, blanched for 1 minute in boiling water, then shocked in an ice water bath, and drained 20 leaves fresh mint ¼ cup small, picked sprigs dill 2 whole scallions, thinly sliced Kosher salt and cracked black pepper Juice of 1 lemon

Rinse the mushrooms in a bowl of cold water, swishing them around. Immediately drain and spread on a towel. (If they’re larger than bite-size, halve or quarter them.) In a braising pan or large, heavy skillet, warm the olive oil. Add and sauté the shallot until just softened, then add the mushrooms and pan-roast until slightly golden, shaking the pan. Add the pearl onions and cook for a minute, then deglaze the pan with the white wine. Add the appropriate amount of water and the thyme, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer gently over low heat until the onions are soft, 15 to 20 minutes (5 to 10 minutes if using frozen pearl onions). Check occasionally and add a little more water if it’s all evaporated. Season with kosher salt and pepper. In a bowl, fold the peas and mushroom–pearl onion mixture together. Add the mint, dill, and scallions, and drizzle liberally with extra-virgin olive oil. Toss, season generously with sea salt and cracked pepper, and squeeze the lemon juice over the top. Toss again.

27

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dinner, family style

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BEEF STEW WITH LEEKS BODINO STIFADO ME PRASO =----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------= SERVES 4 TO 6 FAMILY-STYLE, WITH POTATOES, RICE, OR ORZO

Braises like this are perfect for meat with tough muscle tissue and tendons (which come from the part of the animal that works hard), a great example of poverty cooking. This less expensive cut of meat develops its own natural and luscious sauce as it cooks. You want a little marbling in the meat, because it melts down as you cook and adds a lot of flavor to the sauce. You can use brisket, shanks, shoulder—all fairly tough meats—but save the filet mignon for the grill or a pan. It takes a little time to cook and become tender, but it’s a relatively easy setup, and once you get it onto the stove you don’t have to worry about it for about an hour. So you can do your laundry, or walk the dog, or make a salad. A couple of days later, if you have any leftovers, you can shred the meat, then return the meat to the sauce and add your favorite pasta. The resulting dish is a Greek version of beef Stroganoff. The herbs are very important to the flavor develo pment here, since I’m using water instead of stock, so use fresh herbs if possible.

3 tablespoons blended oil (90 percent canola, 10 percent extra-virgin olive) 2 pounds beef stew meat, cut into 1½-inch chunks Kosher salt and cracked black pepper ½ large Spanish or sweet onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 stalk celery, finely chopped 1 large leek, cut into thick rounds, washed well in cold water, drained 2 tablespoons tomato paste

½ cup red wine 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 3 to 5 cups water 1 fresh bay leaf or 2 dried leaves 1 large sprig rosemary 1 sprig thyme 1 sprig sage 2 cinnamon sticks Extra-virgin olive oil Grated orange zest 1 tablespoon roughly chopped parsley

Place a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the blended oil. Season the beef aggressively with kosher salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the beef and sear on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Add all the chopped vegetables to the pan with the beef and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir for 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and red wine vinegar, and let them reduce completely away.

70 DINNER, FAMILY STYLE

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Add 3 cups of the water, 2 teaspoons salt and a generous grinding of pepper, the bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, sage, and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and partially cover the pan. Simmer gently for about an hour. Check and, if the mixture is dry, add another cup or two of water. Keep simmering for 15 to 40 minutes more, until the meat is tender and the braising liquid has reduced to a saucy consistency. Remove the bay leaves and cinnamon sticks. Transfer to a platter and drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil, and scatter with a little orange zest and the parsley.

Photos: page 68, Creamed Spinach; page 69, Beef Stew; above, browned beef and aromatics

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TOMATO & STRING BEAN SALAD SALATA APO TOMATES KAI AMPELOFASOLIA =----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------= SERVES 4, OR MORE AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

This is my version of a Greek steak house salad—it’s fantastic with a steak or any kind of protein. Add toasted bread and it’s a Greek version of the Italian dish panzanella. I recommend going a step further by adding a grilled onion: the char flavor works perfectly with the ripe fruit and vegetables.

¼ pound green beans, ends trimmed ¼ pound yellow wax beans, ends trimmed ⅓ to ½ cup Red Wine and Feta Vinaigrette (page 271) 2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese 4 vine-ripe tomatoes, preferably heirloom, cut into rough wedges

1 teaspoon dry Greek oregano ½ small red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings 6 small, picked sprigs parsley, torn 6 small, picked sprigs dill, torn 16 leaves fresh mint, torn Kosher salt and coarsely cracked black pepper

Prepare an ice water bath and bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the beans until tender but still snappy, about 3 minutes, then shock them in the ice water bath and swish around. Drain well and dry on a clean towel. In a bowl, combine the beans, vinaigrette, feta, tomatoes, oregano, red onion, and torn herbs. Toss well with clean hands. Taste and adjust the seasoning with kosher salt and pepper. 4 If you wish, add toasted chunks of day-old bread, brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and seasoned with sea salt and pepper. 4 Or try adding half a grilled Spanish or sweet onion, separated into rings (page 270).

104 MY FIRST RECIPES

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4 If you have any leftover lamb, you can make a fantastic lamb ragout to toss with the Hilopites Pasta from page 76. Pull the meat off the bone and shred, then warm it in a skillet with some of the leftover braising liquid. Reduce the liquid to concentrate the flavors and create a textural sauce to coat the pasta. If you have any Garlic Purée, throw a spoonful into the pan, along with a few tiny picked sprigs of thyme and a pinch of minced rosemary. Cook the Hilopites Pasta in the usual way, drain well, and toss with the lamb mixture. 4 Instead of serving orzo on the side, throw some cooked orzo into the liquid toward the end of the reducing time. The starch from the orzo will thicken the juices.

SPINACH RICE SPANAKORIZO =----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------= SERVES 4 TO 6 FAMILY-STYLE AS A SIDE DISH, OR MORE AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

My mom made spanakorizo, or spinach rice, all the time, always with water. But if you have chicken stock, the flavor will be richer. If you use vegetable stock, you’ll still have a vegan dish. This is another example of the type of food we would eat during Lent.

1 cup uncooked long-grain rice, well rinsed 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 shallots, finely chopped 6 whole scallions, thickly sliced

5 cups baby spinach leaves Kosher salt and cracked black pepper 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter

In a large pot, cook the rice according to the package instructions (or the way you like to cook rice). While the rice is cooking: in a large skillet, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Wilt the shallots and scallions for 2 to 3 minutes without browning. Add the spinach, turning it over with tongs to help it wilt evenly. Stir in 1 tablespoon of kosher salt, a generous grinding of pepper, and the lemon juice. When the rice is done, add it to the spinach mixture. Stir in the butter, and season with salt and pepper. 4 Spanakorizo is typically a side dish, but you can easily add shrimp, scallops, or mussels to make it into a main course. A scatter of crumbled feta or manouri cheese would add another layer of flavor.

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T

here is a single word in Greek, kefi, that explains a philosophy of life. Kefi is the culmination of a celebration when music, dance, food, liquor, and the company you share intersect.

The effect is so ethereal and the feeling so euphoric that you realize this is what life is about. It isn’t material possessions—the size of your house or the kind of car you drive—that are important. It’s the joy you derive from celebrating life with the people you love. When I was five years old, my parents sent me to Greek school at our local Greek Orthodox church on Long Island. We learned not only how to read and write Greek, but also about Greek culture and the country our parents had left behind. The religious component of the program wasn’t dominant (because the church also had Sunday school, which of course I had to attend) but the culture is tied into the religion and vice versa, so religion was a unifying aspect of all of the other elements of our program. I found my time at the church for Greek school to be very peaceful. It wasn’t because of any deep-seated religious beliefs, but rather because of the friendships that I made there. I found a support system I desperately needed among the other children of Greek immigrants. They understood me in a way that only children growing up in the same cultural bubble could comprehend. As part of the curriculum, we learned traditional Greek folk dancing. Initially, the forty-five minutes of dance instruction every Saturday was relatively casual. Mrs. Benes was a good recreational folk dancer, but she was not a professional. It was when Mrs. Sopasis, a retired professional dancer, came to Greek school to teach us that I really became interested in Greek, especially Cretan, dancing. As Mrs. Sopasis and her daughter, Debbie (later my dance partner), whipped us

180 KEFI — A TIME TO DANCE

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A

highly imaginative, visually arresting, totally mouth-watering chocolate desserts cookbook from the impresario of chocolate, Max Brenner! With gigantic vats of churning chocolate, desserts like their famous chocolate pizza, and 12 varieties of hot chocolate served in custom mugs, Max Brenner, Chocolate by the Bald Man, has turned their line of hip, colorful restaurants into an international sensation. CHOCOLATE: A LOVE STORY is a vibrant new cookbook that includes 65 original recipes narrated in the quirky, captivating voice of Brenner himself, the restaurant’s visionary founder and the “bald man.” Bold original illustrations inspired by Art Deco poster graphics, full-color photographs, easy-to-follow delicious recipes, and a serving of Brenner’s unique vision for spreading “chocolate culture” around the world make this book a must for every chocolate lover.

• The franchise has 22 locations around the world, and will be opening new restaurants in Philadelphia and other cities starting in summer 2009. • The restaurant’s two New York City locations are celebrity magnets and tabloid staples, and the Union Square location alone attracts more than 400,000 customers each year. • Brenner is a frequent guest on major television programs like The Martha Stewart Show and Paula’s Home Cooking. • Yonatan Factor is a leading designer and branding expert in Israel. He has worked with Max Brenner since 1999.

Chocolate: A Love Story

65 Chocolate Dessert Recipes from Max Brenner’s Private Collection Max Brenner, Artwork by Yonatan Factor 978-0-316-05662-5 $29.99 ($35.99 in Canada) • Cookbook • 9 x 12 • 128 pages 50 4/c illustrations, 15 4/c photos • Rights: World Editor: Zinzi Clemmons

M ARKETING Advertising Holiday Gift Book Catalogs

Publicity National media campaign including television, print, radio, and online interviews

Advance praise for CHOCOLATE:A LOVE STORY: “Max Brenner’s desserts are so amazing and so creative! With this delightful book, y’all can re-create the magic of his chocolate restaurants in your own home.”

Web Marketing e-newsletters, giveaways, social networks

PAULA DEEN, HOST OF PAULA’S HOME COOKING

Praise for Max Brenner:

TESS STEINKOLK

“Attention, citizens! A sweet revolution is taking place at Max Brenner, Chocolate by the Bald Man—Union DAILY CANDY Square’s 5,000-square-foot cocoa utopia.”

NOVEMBER HARDCOVER

32 |

L I T T L E , B R OW N A N D CO M PA N Y

Max

Brenner started Max Brenner, Chocolate by the Bald Man in his homeland of Israel in 1996. He lives in New York.



Chocolate: A Love Story 65 Chocolate Dessert Recipes from Max Brenner’s Private Collection


Contents Max \ 6 Yonatan \ 8 Chocolate \ 10 Optimistic Musings: Morning Chocolate Variations Dependable banana cupcakes \ 12 Bohemian French toast chocolate sandwiches \ 14 Dreamy warm Danish \ 16 The American dream pancake \ 18 The Belgian street waffle \ 20 Intimate Hungarian crĂŞpes \ 22 My one and only cocoa CrĂŞpe Suzette \ 24 Veg-out chocolate cornflake TV wraps \ 26 Chocolate Therapy: Comforting Pastries Control freak chocolate spread \ 28 Intimate scones \ 30 Plain Jane sweet chocolate rolls \ 32 Chocolate yeast cake \ 34 Modest carrot cake \ 36 Lipstick banana chocolate cake bonbons \ 38

Texture Experiments: Chocolate Mousses, Custards, Creams, and More Max and Moritz profiteroles \ 74 Forever young white chocolate custard \ 76 Alternative milk chocolate mousse \ 78 A mannered white chocolate crème brÝlÊe \ 80 Eco-Friendly chocolate bread pudding \ 82 Revolutionary rice pudding \ 84 Military porridge \ 86 Pretentious white chocolate panna cotta \ 88 Kinky Pavlova \ 90 Controversial cherry soup \ 92 Tacky double chocolate fondue \ 94 All-in-one crackling coconut sugar tortilla chips \ 96 Overwhelming Oriental white chocolate malabi \ 98

Soft Decadence: Chocolate Cream Cake Creations Nostalgic dark chocolate cheese crumb cake \ 40 Handsome tiramisu \ 42 Soap opera chocolate cappuccino roulade \ 44 Politically correct Sacher torte \ 46 Spy-thriller chocolate Black Forest cake \ 48

Serious Stuff: Some Fun Chocolate Games A forever toffee apple \ 100 All-the-way confiture of figs \ 102 Unfulfilled candied orange peel \ 104 Bad boy chocolate pizza \ 106 The adult and child chocolate burger joint venture \ 108 Unforgettable punch banana ice cream \ 110 Banana split \ 112 Innocent meringue kisses \ 114 Meaningless sweet spaghetti \ 116 Home industry chocolate cheese pockets \ 118

Cozy Option: Chocolate Pies My very own honey pie manifest \ 50 Mon chĂŠri chocolate cherry pie \ 52 Heaven-on-earth cocoa tarte tatin \ 54 A therapeutic chocolate pot pie \ 56

A Nostalgic Homage: The Chocolate Cookie Jar Jealous almond and pistachio marzipan balls \ 120 Pink Floyd ladyfingers \ 122 Once-upon-a-time small almond cookies \ 124 Contentious chocolate chip cookies \ 126

Happy Addiction: Concentrated Chocolate My lost childhood birthday cake \ 58 A philosophical highly concentrated fudge brownie \ 60 Such a beautiful chocolate soufflÊ \ 62 A high school bonfire chocolate melting heart cake \ 64

A Sugar Rush: Straightforward Chocolate Drinks Wannabe French hot chocolate \ 128 Shanti white chocolate chai image \ 130 Colorful milkshake \ 132 The eternal chocolate bliss Indian lhasi \ 134 Consensus American chocolate cookie shake \ 136 Frozen very hot Margaritas \ 138 Anonymous white chocolate cosmopolitans \ 140

Simple Luxury: Street Food and Gourmet Chocolate in Harmony Enticing sugar churros \ 66 Love and hate doughnuts \ 68 Guilt-free fried chocolate truffles \ 70 Painful white chocolate truffles \ 72

Recipe 66 Recipe 66 \ 142

Chocolate: A Love Story, 4


Max Almost always, when meeting someone for the first time, I’m asked how I actually started out making chocolate. I usually tell them that when I was ten years old, I read Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, by Roald Dahl, and I swore that, one day, I would find a river of chocolate and sail in it. I also tell them about Anna, who was my first love, and who could not fall asleep without eating a piece of milk chocolate before going to bed, because otherwise she would have bad dreams. But the truth is that I wanted to be a writer. One that gets up at noon, sits in cafĂŠs, writes until the following morning and devotes a book to an impossible, eternal love. At the age of twenty, I thought that in order to find inspiration for my first novel I needed to be alone. I needed to walk in narrow streets, sit in a dark room with a candle, feel the longing, and write. I went to live and work in the seventh arrondissement in Paris with a French chef who looked like Geppetto. I was an apprentice for six years. He taught me how to make toffee, marzipan, and nougat. He told me stories that are only passed on from teacher to pupil. I was lonely and did not write. Later I started searching for romance as a source of inspiration. I wanted to live in a small house, ride my bicycle to work, make colorful sweets in big jars, and write. I opened a chocolate workshop. People fell in love with the movie that was my life. I was living the magic of romance, yet was making so many sweets that I had no time left to write. Then I wanted to experience decadence to get a sense of real, raging inspiration—like the one described in the biographies of great writers. I wanted to wear Versace suits with tight pants, drink lots of wine, fall in love with the prettiest women, and write. I designed and created a lifestyle of chocolate with its own saying. I dived into decadence, but most of the time, I was drunk and did not write. More than ten years have passed since I started looking for inspiration for my writing. I have yet to start writing. Recently, I bought a special feather pen and a thick leathercovered notebook. I am starting to write a novel soon. I’ve been making chocolate for more than ten years. Almost without noticing it, I find myself telling its story. Maybe through the telling of its story, I can also tell something about myself, something about the longings, the romance—the decadence. I invite you to watch, smell, taste, and feel my love story.

Chocolate: A Love Story, 6



Yonatan “Yonatan is not a man of words. You have to meet him in order to get to know him.� These are the words the friend who introduced us many years ago used, to tell me what I now know for myself—that Yonatan Factor is a man of drawings. Today, however, as Yonatan and I are publishing an album of our work together, I want to switch places with him. For the first and perhaps only time, I wish to draw him in my own way, which is of course with words. We planned to meet for the first time in South Tel Aviv, where Yonatan was born and still lives and is always just about to desert, to split from, because that’s the way it is with stormy, sensuous love; like the kind he feels for the city that fills him with inspiration. This is what he looked like at that first meeting: heavy brown hiking boots, a huge tattoo running up his leg that had been covered with a tattoo of a blue rectangle, because he was sick of what he’d loved the day before. Khaki shorts that reached his knees, a red kid’s T-shirt. The body of the most muscular Irish boxer you can imagine, topped with a round head whose contours were hidden behind a pair of thick, black glasses that looked like they should be worn by a physics professor who never stopped reading. The spiky blond hair of a newborn chick. And even though you couldn’t see it, stuffed inside was the romantic soul of a starving Russian poet. He took me to eat at his favorite restaurant, a dive where the locals eat, and when I walked in I was convinced he’d actually taken me to see a play. “This is what food should be like,� he told me then. “Like a stage actor. Bathed in the bright light, in colors and sounds, with a strong text so it can express itself and bring out the magical personality hidden inside.� I didn’t say a word. But late that night, when we left a dark bar together, I started talking and I’ve been talking ever since, and ever since then he’s been drawing the most perfect scenery for our play that we’ve written together—our big chocolate stage play.

Chocolate: A Love Story, 8



Chocolate Chocolate is not just about taste. It is not just about mixing exotic spices or creating delicate mousses. It is absolutely not just an excellent gourmet product. Chocolate, much more than other food, is associated with different aspects of life. It is a symbol of contradictory emotions and sensations. On one hand, it is the most romantic gift; on the other, a commodity that is traded in the bourse. It is sold like precious jewelry that is picked carefully from a crystal glass, but also is an addictive snack in every corner kiosk. It is tasted like a ďŹ ne wine and licked straight from the bowl. It is sexy. It is nostalgic and it’s a fantasy object for children and grown-up children. These diverse aspects of chocolate and of life are the inspiration for our book.

Chocolate: A Love Story, 10


One: Two 11


The Belgian street wafe with butterscotch chips, roasted pineapple and a white chocolate orange maple trap

Dough 3 ½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup milk, plus more if needed ½ cup heavy cream Scant ½ cup sugar 2 large eggs 1 envelope dry yeast 1 stick plus 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup butterscotch candies, chopped, plus more for topping White Chocolate and Orange Maple Sauce ž cup heavy cream 8 ounces white chocolate, chopped Zest of 1 orange 3 tablespoons orange juice 6 tablespoons maple syrup Roasted Pineapple 1 stick plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup brown sugar 5 (½-inch-thick) pineapple slices

1. Make the dough. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, milk, cream, sugar, eggs and yeast. Mix on low to form a smooth dough, about 10 minutes. If dough is too dry or tough, add a little more milk 1 tablespoon at a time. Add the butter and salt and continue kneading until the dough becomes elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 10 to 15 minutes. It should not be sticky to the touch. 2. Let the dough rest in a lightly greased bowl at room temperature for about 1 hour. Turn the dough once and put in the fridge to rest for another hour. Turn it again and refrigerate for a minimum of 5 hours. 3. Add the butterscotch to the dough and mix well. Scoop the dough in heaping teaspoonfuls and roll into balls. Place the balls on a baking sheet lined with parchment and let rise in a warm place for about 90 minutes. 4. Heat a waffle machine to 320ÂşF. Add a ball of dough to each section on the iron. Bake until golden brown, about 3 minutes each. Repeat with the remaining dough. 5. Prepare the sauce. Bring the cream to a simmer. Pour over the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and let sit until the chocolate begins to melt, about 1 minute. Add the orange zest and juice and stir until smooth. Let cool, then stir in the maple syrup. 6. Make the roasted pineapple. Melt the butter over high heat in a nonstick pan. Add the sugar and pineapple slices. Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. 7. Place a waffle on each of 10 plates, add half a slice of roasted pineapple, and top with white chocolate and orange maple sauce. Sprinkle butterscotch pieces over the tops and serve hot. Yield: 10 wafes

Chocolate: A Love Story, 20


Optimistic Musings: Morning Chocolate Variations, 21


Intimate Hungarian crĂŞpes with sweet white chocolate cheese, raisins and dried fig hidden secrets Shortly after it grows dark, I enter our secret place and sit in the corner, the spot that moves only us. Everyone comes to taste the famed crĂŞpes of the Hungarian cafĂŠ that was once known only to us and is now full to capacity. I smile a tiny, pensive smile to myself: not one of these countless people will ever experience its true taste, the intimate taste created by you and me.

Filling Âź cup dried figs, chopped ½ cup raisins, chopped ½ cup rum 1 cup cream cheese or farmer cheese 4 ounces milk chocolate chips 3 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon CrĂŞpes 3 large eggs 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt ž cup milk 2 tablespoons brandy 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more to grease the pan Confectioners’ sugar and ground cinnamon, for dusting

1. Make the filling. Soak the figs and raisins in the rum for at least 1 hour. Drain the fruit and discard the rum. 2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the cheese until soft and smooth. Mix in the figs and raisins and chocolate chips. Add the honey and cinnamon and keep beating until the mixture is combined and the cheese is soft and smooth, about 3 minutes. Set aside.

3. Make the crĂŞpes. Whisk together the eggs and granulated sugar until they become a light lemony yellow. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour and salt. Whisk the dry ingredients into the egg mixture, whisking until smooth. Whisk in the milk and brandy. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes before making the crĂŞpes. 4. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Warm 1 tablespoon butter in a nonstick crĂŞpe or omelet pan until it foams and subsides. Pour just enough batter into the pan to create a thin, even layer with a ladle or by rotating the pan. Pour any excess batter back into the bowl. When the bottom of the crĂŞpe is slightly brown, flip and cook for a few more seconds. 5. Transfer the cooked crĂŞpe to an ovenproof plate and cover with wax paper. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding butter to the pan when necessary and separating each cooked crĂŞpe with a layer of wax paper. To keep crĂŞpes warm while cooking the remainder, cover the top crĂŞpe with aluminum foil and keep the stack in the warm oven. CrĂŞpes are best eaten immediately but can be kept covered in the refrigerator for up to one day. 6. Spread the cheese mixture on the hot crĂŞpes and roll as you would an omelet. Place on serving plates and dust the crĂŞpes and plates with confectioners’ sugar and cinnamon and serve immediately. Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Chocolate: A Love Story, 22


Optimistic Musings: Morning Chocolate Variations, 23


Intimate scones with tender milk chocolate chips and romantic winter’s strawberry confiture Through the window of our cafÊ, I watch as you heap butter and jam and fresh cream onto a golden pastry just the way we liked it. You serve it to his mouth and prove to me once again that romanticism is the mass market product of intimacy.

2 Ÿ cups all-purpose flour Ÿ cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/8 teaspoon salt 2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces Ÿ cup finely chopped candied ginger 3 ounces milk chocolate chips Ÿ cup heavy cream 1 large egg, lightly beaten, plus 1 for egg wash 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or bakers’ Silpat. 2. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt. Using your fingers or two knives, cut in the cold butter pieces until you achieve a sandy texture. Stir in the candied ginger and chocolate. Add the cream, egg, and vanilla, mixing until just combined. 3. Place the dough on a cutting board and shape into a circle about ½ inch thick. Cut the dough into 8 triangles. Place the triangles on the prepared baking sheet. 4. Beat the remaining egg with 1 teaspoon water and brush the top of each scone with the egg wash. Bake the scones until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. 5. Remove the scones from the oven and set the oven to broil. Sift confectioners’ sugar over the scones. Set the scones briefly under the broiler to brown, being careful not to let the sugar burn. Serve warm with clotted cream and strawberry jam. Yield: 8 servings

Chocolate: A Love Story, 30


Chocolate Therapy: Comforting Pastries, 31


Handsome tiramisu of white chocolate, Irish Cream, and chic Italian espresso Limoncello in a frozen glass. Paolo Conte is playing in the background while on the screen Sophia Loren and Marcello Mastroianni drive their white Porsche convertible into the distance along the winding lanes of Tuscany and into the screen that shrinks to a single point of focus, the sweet and true flavor of life: longing and dreams.

1 cup heavy cream 9 ounces white chocolate, chopped 1 ž cups strong coffee or espresso, cooled to room temperature Ÿ cup Irish Cream liqueur 3 large eggs, separated 1/8 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons sugar 1 ½ cups mascarpone cheese 18 large (4-inch-long) or about 40 small (2-inch-long) ladyfingers Cocoa powder, for dusting

1. Bring ½ cup cream to a boil, then pour over the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Set aside until the chocolate begins to melt, about 1 minute, then stir the ganache until smooth. Set aside to cool. 2. Combine the coffee and Irish Cream in a shallow bowl. Set aside. 3. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whisk the egg whites until frothy. Add the salt and continue mixing on medium until the eggs hold soft peaks. Gradually add 3 tablespoons sugar and continue beating until the whites are glossy and hold firm peaks. 4. In a separate large bowl, whisk together the yolks and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar until thick and pale yellow, about 3 minutes. In another bowl, stir the white chocolate ganache into the mascarpone. Gently fold the mascarpone mixture into the egg yolks until just combined. 5. In a clean bowl, whip the remaining ½ cup cream until it holds soft peaks. Gently fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone mixture. Finish by folding the egg whites into the mascarpone mixture until just combined. 6. Briefly dip the ladyfingers one by one into the coffee mixture. Use half the ladyfingers to line the bottom of an 8 by 8-inch glass dish. Spoon half the mascarpone mixture over the ladyfingers, then follow with a second layer of coffee-soaked fingers. Cover with the remaining mascarpone mixture. Cover and chill overnight. Dust with cocoa powder just before serving. Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Chocolate: A Love Story, 42


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Previously, LET IT BLEED was only available from Rhino in extremely limited and deluxe editions for $650 and $950, respectively. Demand is so great that some copies are currently being sold for nearly $2,000. This reasonably-priced edition will prove irresistible to the Rolling Stones’s many fans.

L

2009 will be the 40th anniversary of the Stones’s Let It Bleed tour, and the media will devote considerable attention to the events that transpired at Altamont.

L

Ethan A. Russell is a multi-Grammy Award-nominated producer, director, and photographer. He is the only photographer to have shot album covers for three of the deďŹ ning bands of the 1960s: The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and The Who.

L

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame plans to have an exhibit of photographs from LET IT BLEED at the time of publication.

PRAISE FOR ETHAN RUSSELL: MARKETING ADVERTISING

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LET IT

BLEED


LET IT

BLEED The Rolling Stones, Altamont and the End of the Sixties ETHAN R U SSE LL WITH G E RAR D VAN DE R LE U N

N EW YOR K

BOSTON


CONTENTS

Cast of Characters 00 Introduction 00 Part I: Looking Back An Accidental Photographer 00 The House at Pooh Corner 00 Honey, It Ain’t No Rock and Roll Show 00 Part II: The Tour Oriole House: The Rolling Stones’ La Dormitory 00 Under the Cover of Night 00 Start Me Up 00 Got Live If You Want It 00 Stoning the Coliseum 00 Tumblin’ Dice: What Happens on the Road, Stays on the Road 00 You Can’t Always Get What You Want 00 Coming Down 00 No Problem, We’ve Done This Hundreds of Times 00 Altamont: “We All Need Someone We Can Bleed On...” 00 Part III: Aftermath Gimme Shelter 00 Epilogue: Not Fade Away Not Fade Away 00


TOUR DATES

November 7, 1969 Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO November 8, 1969 Inglewood Forum, Los Angeles, CA November 9, 1969 Alameda County Coliseum, Oakland, CA November 10, 1969 Sports Arena, San Diego, CA November 11, 1969 Coliseum, Phoenix, AZ November 13, 1969 Moody Coliseum, Dallas, TX November 14, 1969 University of Alabama Coliseum, Auburn, AL November 15, 1969 Assembly Hall, University of Illinois, Champaign, IL November 16, 1969 Internatonal Amphitheater, Chicago, IL November 24, 1969 Olympia Stadium, Detroit, MI November 25, 1969 Spectrum Sports Arena, Philadelphia, PA November 26, 1969 Baltimore Civic Center, Baltimore, MD November 27, 1969 Madison Square Garden, New York City, NY November 28, 1969 Madison Square Garden, New York City, NY November 29 Boston Garden, Boston, MA November 30, 1969 International Raceway, West Palm Beach, FL December 6, 1969 Altamont Speedway, Livermore, CA


Cast of Characters Mick Jagger Singer/Performer (English) The son of a physical education instructor, Mick Jagger was born on July 26, 1943, in Dartford, Kent, England. The 1969 US tour was his-and the Stones’-first in three years. A Rolling Stone since 1962, Jagger and the Stones played Rio de Janeiro in 2006 before a million and a half people.

Keith Richards Guitarist (English) Keith Richards, an only child, was born in Dartford, Kent, December 18, 1943. Keith-with Mick Jagger-joined Ian Stewart and Brian Jones to form the Rolling Stones. Ronnie Schneider: “I could give you a million stories about Keith being a man’s man. I remember a guy comes up and bothers Charlie’s wife and Keith smashes him over the head with a beer bottle, while holding a baby, as he pushes the guy down the stairs.”

Bill Wyman Bass Guitar. (English) Born in 1936, Bill Wyman joined the original Rolling Stones in 1962. He played with them until 1993. He is fa-mous for his expressionless immobility on stage. (“I’ve never met anyone who moved less than Bill, but he added to the act tremendously,” says Chip Monck. Bill demurs, “I used to sweat a little bit under me arms.”) Since his departure in 1993, Bill has published several books and still performs and records. He has three young daughters and a fully grown son, Stephen.

Charlie Watts Drummer (English) The thing about Charlie Watts, a remarkable legacy, is how everyone feels motivated to offer such kind observa-tions about him: “The only one, a staunch friend over the years.” “There’s such a serene, calm goodness about Charlie.” “Charlie was very down-to-earth.” He was not playing “I am a great Rolling Stone, rock star.” I once heard somebody say, “You’re on the road the whole time. God, it must be hard.” Charlie replied, “Jesus, musi’cians have been doing this since the dawn of time. We’ve got it easy.” Charlie Watts was born in Islington on June 2, 1941.

Viii

CAST OF CHARACTERS

Mick Taylor Guitarist (English) Born January 17, 1949, in Welwyn Garden City, Hertfordshire, England. In 1969 Mick Taylor was recruited to replace Brian Jones, and his addition allowed the Stones to tour again. Bill Wyman: “Mick Taylor became the most musical person in the band, more technically clever than all the rest of us. We were just musicians, basically, and he was way above us in his technique. But he fitted very well.” Mick Taylor left the Stones in 1974. He lives in England, still performs and records..

Ian Stewart Pianist. (Scots) Brian Jones placed the ad, and Ian Stewart answered it. That was the beginning of the Rolling Stones. Born in Pittenweem in the East Neuk, Scotland, in 1938, Stu was asked to leave the band by their then manager, Andrew Loog Oldham. He did not look the part, though that was not the reason given. But Stu stayed with them for the rest of his life. He died in England in 1985. On the 1969 tour Stu did what he always did: helped get the band on the stage, performed with them, and was, as Stanley Booth puts it, “the only grown-up.” When I saw Stu on stage at Altamont, it was the first time I had ever seen him worried. I knew then we were in trouble.

Ronnie Schneider Tour Manager (American) Born in New Jersey in 1943, Ronnie Schneider grew up in Miami. (“With that ‘let’s party’ mentality. You have good weather. You go to the beach. You get a suntan. You pick up girls. I loved it.”) He was on the road with the Stones in 1966. In 1969 Mick Jagger called and asked him to do the tour without involving Ronnie’s uncle, Allen Klein.

Sam Cutler Personal Tour Manager (English) Born in London’s East End, Sam’s parents were killed in the Second World War. He was placed in an orphanage but later adopted. “At fifteen I left home, school, and England, having already suffered three mothers and four fa’thers.” As much as any individual, Sam took the fall for Altamont, about which he’s still angry. Ronnie Schneider: “Sam had to disappear–he went into hiding for quite a long time. He was the most hardworking guy that I’ve ever met. He was definitely driven-I think he was absolutely fantastic at what he did.” The interviews with Sam began in 2000 and were completed in 2006. He’s a central figure, with interesting facets to his story. Sam is married with two children and lives in Australia.

Georgia “Jo” Bergman Assistant/Office Manager. (American) Born in Oakland in 1945, Jo Bergman ran the Rolling Stones office in London and went on the road with them on multiple tours from 1968 through 1972. During those years little that had anything to do with the Rolling Stones was outside her purview. She left to go to Warner Bros. Records, becoming its only female vice president by the time she retired. She lives in Altadena, California.

Astrid Lundstrom (Swedish) Born in a small village in northern Sweden in 1947, Astrid traveled by boat to England in 1966. Within her first month there she was to meet George Harrison, Paul McCartney, Jimi Hendrix, and Bill Wyman. She and Bill were together for seventeen years, and she accompanied him on every tour. “Other than them [the Rolling Stones] I was the only one who was there the whole time.” Today Astrid lives in Tucson, Arizona.

Stanley Booth Writer. (American) In 1969 Stanley Booth received from the Rolling Stones “their exclusive cooperation in putting together a book about the Rolling Stones.” He devoted fifteen years of his life to writing it. The True Adventures of the Rolling Stones has been called by Peter Guralnick “the one authentic masterpiece of rock ‘n’ roll writing.” About it Keith Richards says, “Stanley’s book is the only one I can read and say, yeah, that’s how it was.” Born in Georgia in 1942, Stanley first met the Rolling Stones in 1968. Still writing, Stanley lives in Brunswick, Georgia, with his wife, Diann.

Ethan Russell Photographer. (American) Born in New York in 1945, Ethan grew up in San Francisco. He went to London in 1968 as part of a European summer vacation. He stayed, working initially as a volunteer with autistic children while trying to be a writer. He had taken a few photos in college. Seen by a young journalist writing for a new magazine called Rolling Stone, he was asked if he wanted to photograph Mick Jagger. He photographed the Rolling Stones during the years 1968-1972. He also photographed the Beatles, the Who, and many others. Today he lives in Marin County with his wife, stepson, and five-year-old son.

Michael Lydon Writer. (American) Michael Lydon was the second writer on the tour. Michael’’s physical appearance and lifestyle (over-the-shoulder hair, jeans, living in Mendocino) all said “hippie.” His demeanor was so unassuming that it totally obscured the fact, which I found out during our interview, that he was a reporter for the New York Times, for Newsweek, for Esquire–and was a graduate of Yale. Michael was delightful then and is now. He is a working musician and music teacher in New York City.

Chip Monck Stage and Lighting Design (American) Chip Monck had a certain degree of personal notoriety before he joined the 1969 tour; among other things, he was the “voice of Woodstock” due to his multiple appearances in the movie Woodstock speaking to the crowd, warning them, among other things, of “bad acid.” His interview reveals that lighting and staging were, more or less, everything to him before and after the Stones ‘69 tour. He now lives in Australia.

Tony Funches “Security” (American) A Vietnam vet and the son of two religious parents, Tony was the president of the West Los Angeles College when someone asked him if he wanted to help look out for the Rolling Stones while they were in LA. “My job was to sit in my Volkswagen down by the gate.” It didn’t last. Once they got to know Tony, the Stones asked him to come on the tour. At Altamont he broke two bones in his hand knocking out Hells Angels. “That I lived is still a surprise to me.” I interviewed Tony in Hendersonville, Nevada, in 2006.

Jon Jaymes “Transportation” (American) Jon Jaymes, aka John Ellsworth, materialized at the beginning of the tour claiming to be from the Chrysler Corporation. To Chrysler he said he was working with the Stones. Newspaper accounts described him as a promoter of allegedly bogus businesses from eucalyptus plantations to European hamburger joints. His exploits were extraor’dinary, including appearing at the Carter White House as Santa Claus while attempting to defraud a children’s charity.

CAST OF CHARACTERS

ix


PART I: LOOKING BACK


The House at Pooh Crossing The first time I remember seeing Brian Jones, I was an art student at the University of California. Brian was staring at me from a Rolling Stones album cover. Like the rest of the Stones, Jones seemed somber to the point of sullen, even as his blond pageboy haircut made him stand out. At the beginning of the band’s rise to stardom it was Brian who grabbed all the attention. I discovered the Stones in the 1960s when those years had not yet become “the sixties,” even as the Stones were one of the main forces driving youth toward that moment. It was a defining moment

It was as if Brian had chosen to become the crowned prince of stoned.

for me when-in a sweltering darkroom on a hot summer’s night-the voice of Bob Dylan came cascading out of the little radio, backed by drums and electric guitar, singing, “How does it feeeeeeel?” Though I couldn’t have articulated it at the time, it was more than the music. The rise of the singersongwriter was driving the massive change that was going on all around me. These songs weren’t the words of a lyricist put to the melody of a musician. These were the words of the artists, spoken to us. Suddenly-no one knows exactly when-it seemed that everyone was getting high, that these musicians were talking not only to us but to each other, and that we were all somehow in this together. The impression became an undeniable fact. Like the rest of my generation, I was sucked in. It was, indisputably, the best thing going. The writer Michael Lydon, who would join us on the 1969 tour, said decades later, “What I remember most dis-tinctly about that time were the number of ideas and insights moving rapidly and brilliantly in the music until they became part of an international conversation about life, art, music, and politics. Jerry Garcia was as smart as any-body, as smart as a guy from Yale, who was a clerk for a

He talked quietly, telling me about his new house. He showed me around the downstairs, proud

Supreme Court judge. No, Garcia was smarter, more hap-pening. That’s really what created the

of its Winnie-the-Pooh provenance and the views from the mullioned windows of the English gar-

Above: Playing with his dog. Opposite: Kicking

opportunity for Rolling Stone magazine. I knew Jann Wenner among the young journalists in San

dens.

the statue of Christopher Robin.

Francisco, and he asked me to be Rolling Stone’s first managing editor. The magazine caught on very fast because Jann had grasped the new vibration just when the old vibration was fading.”

Brian, more than any of his contemporaries, seemed to have invented the rock-and-roll lifestyle. It was as if he had chosen to become the Crown Prince of Stonedness. This role required that Jones

When I was eleven years old and tried to imitate them. I sported a shiny pompadour so slick that

remain constantly high. Few would have disputed his position, even in California in the 1960s, where

while slathered with butch wax I dove into a swimming pool and emerged out the other side with

people were now setting daily records of higher and higher, just trying to catch up. It was Brian’s face,

barely a hair out of place.

after all, squinting back at you from the cover of Big Hits (High Tide and Green Grass). It was his face peering out of the mist on the cover of Between the Buttons, announcing with his wicked leer that

NOW, IN THE EARLY SPRING OF 1969, the pompadour was gone and the hair was much longer.

he was so high it was a miracle the camera could capture him at all.

I drove between tall Eng-lish hedgerows flanked by forests, in a scene of perfect tranquility. I turned

A musical wunderkind-friends said he could learn any musical instrument in half an hour-it was Brian

into a drive and saw a three-story brick house. I went in, stooping slightly under the low door, and

who de-cided, in June 1967, to attend the seminal Monterey Pop Festival (though he would not per-

saw Brian shambling sleepily downstairs. It was the early afternoon.

form there). He arrived as the self-selected ambassador from the English Court of Rock to excitement

10

LOOKING BACK

T H E H O U S E AT P O O H C R O S S I N G

11


and deference. Pictures of him at the festival show him wearing a long cape, its edges lined with fur, and festooned with a collection of pendants and Moroccan jewelry draped around his neck, his long, blond Prince Valiant hair framing his pale face. There, too, Jones had that Cheshire Cat look on his face, smiling as if he were about to fade away. But up close on that afternoon in his home, apart from his golden hairdo, Brian looked surprisingly old. He had bags below his eyes, and his face was swollen. He said he’d been up all night, some

“At the center of it all were the drug arrests. It was persecution, really.” GEORGIA BERGMAN

party. Brian talked rapidly, though in a quiet voice. There was a charm to it; an uncensored stream of stoned conscious-ness like you might have expected from Jack Kerouac’s On the Road character Dean Moriarty. As we moved about his house, I started taking pictures in a vague sort of “Stone at Home” manner. I had him sit by the window in the afternoon light. I clicked away, but I could tell the pictures had no punch to them, so I was at a bit of a loss. Perhaps sensing my disappointment, Brian said, “Wait here. I’ll be right back.” Then he disappeared upstairs. About ten minutes later he clattered back down, dressed in a shirt fashioned from an American flag. We headed out across his lawn toward the swimming pool, Jones striding in the lead. He began to move through a series of poses that he made up as he went along. He strutted and preened. He grimaced and grinned. He snuck up on the statue of Christopher Robin and grabbed it by the neck,

Opposite: Strangling Christopher Robin

strangling the icon of British childhood. I was tak-ing pictures and reloading the camera as fast as I could. Then he ducked inside a shed for a moment and reemerged holding a gun. (This was not, I hasten to add, some Clint Eastwood, Dirty Harry, .357 Magnum shit-kicker. It was a pellet gun, a rifle used by the landed gentry to kill the occasional trespassing squirrel.) Jones pointed it at the Christopher Robin statue and pulled the trigger. Then reversed it and started thrusting it butt-first at me behind the camera. I gamely clicked away. Next he lay down on the ground, put the stock to his shoulder, and aimed the rifle directly at me. I was confused about how this quiet fellow, who had a few minutes ago been speaking in hushed and reverent tones about the history of his house and the wonder of Winnie-the-Pooh, came to be writhing in the dirt in his gar-den attacking everything around him with a gun. Still, I thought, This is great! Here’s a Rolling Stone doing, well, Rolling Stone things! The images I was getting were stoned and rebellious, with a slight edge of violence. This was the stuff.

When we were done with the session Brian, polite and quiet again, saw me off. As I pulled out of the drive I caught a glimpse of him in the rearview mirror. Brian stood, framed by his green lawns and his quaint brick cottage, decked out in his American-flag shirt with his rifle tucked under his arm, waving farewell. 12

LOOKING BACK


ACT I HYDE PARK London, Colorado November 7, 1969

Assorted English “bikers” at Hyde Park.


The crowd at Hyde Park. The “Concerts in the Park” series was organized by Blackhill Enterprises, inspired in part by the free concerts that were happening in America. The Stones’ appearance-actually the sixth in the series-would be the biggest up until that point, and would hold that record briefly until it was swept away by Woodstock in just over a month.

“I think it was Mick’s idea to do it. He’d seen Cream there. I can’t remember the timing, at what point Brian was out and Mick Taylor was in. It didn’t start as a memorial. It became one.”GEORGIA BERGMAN 16

LOOKING BACK

H O N E Y, I T A I N ’ T N O R O C K - A N D - R O L L S H O W

17


It seems I’m to wear a white tuxedo. It’s going to cost them a bloody fortune to have me play with them, and even more if I have to wear a tux. Cash every night. One thousand dollars. Two thousand with the tux. IAN STEWART


Klein was telling him there must be no uniforms near the stage while the Stones were playing. The fat man nodded in disbelief. ‘What happens if twenty thousand kids rush the stage?’ ‘We’ll cross that bridge when we come to it,’ said Klein. And the fat man said ‘Oh, I see, great.

STANLEY BOOTH

Below: Sam Cutler points at someone trying to climb on stage. Right: Mick being escorted to stage by Pete Bennett (“I’m the best guy in the world to have pushin’ records for ya’”) and unknown security.


“I wonder what these kids are like now. I mean, do they watch TV, or are they turning on in the basement?” KEITH RICHARDS


ACT II SAN FRANCISCO Oakland Coliseum, CA November 9, 1969


“The ‘69 tour was the best tour until then,which gets completely overshadowed by what happened at Altamont. We had Chuck Berry, BB King, Tina Turner, and Terry Reid, a young, upcoming British star. It was a fantastic tour.” BILL WYMAN



At the end of the show, Mick would take a basket of rose petals and, twirling, throw it out over the crowd, the petals drifting down like a blessing. Twenty minutes earlier he had been singing ‘I’m going to stick this knife right down your throat ‘til it hurts!’ You couldn’t blame people for being a little confused.


Ed Sullivan indicates he is ready. All right and taping, says the floor manager. With polished enthusiasm, Ed Sullivan faces the camera and begins one of his famous introductions. “And tonight, from England, we have with us the Rolling Stones!” He turns toward Mick, who has been waiting patiently. “Hello, Mike,” Ed Sullivan says.

124

THE TOUR


You Can’t Always Get What You Want Chicago, IL, November 15, 1969 New York, NY, November 27 & 28, 1969

“Your thing’s sex, mine’s violence,” and they both crack up

No matter where we performed, the politics of America dogged us. When we arrived at the Chicago concert, Abbie Hoffman, one of the leading political hippies in America at the time, was there. He didn’t have a ticket, but an usher who recognized his face and curly hair let him into the $7.50 section right up front. Hoffman had been trying to get through to the Stones for days. He’d even called the Ambassador West Hotel pretending to be Elvis. (“Yassuh, I jes’ wanted to see how Mick an’ the boys were doin’.”) He didn’t get through. Hoffman sent a note to the Stones from his seat. It did get through and Mick wanted to see him, too. They got to-gether in the dressing room a few minutes before show time. Mick was dressing and brushing his hair. Both were a little awkward. They complimented each other on what they’d been doing. “Your thing is sex, mine’s violence,” says Abbie, and they both cracked up. Abbie asked if Mick knew they were playing at the site of the 1968 Democratic convention. “Sure I know,” said Mick. “Anita and I just came from the Washington Moratorium,” said Abbie. “Great. There was Mitch Miller, or maybe it was Pete Seeger, leading the crowd in ‘Give Peace a Chance.’ ” “Why not?” said Mick. “I’ll give peace a chance,” said Abbie, laughing, “one more chance.” A joint came by and they took a few tokes. Abbie wandered over to Ronnie, who was reading contracts. “Hey, man, you the cat to see about the money?” Ronnie looked up guardedly at this freak in the inner sanctum. “See, we could use some bread for our trial, you know, the Chicago 8. I promise I’ll pay you back right after it’s over.” “No,” said Ronnie with utter unconcern. Abbie went back to Jagger. “Could you lend us some money for our trial? It’s expensive making the revolution.” “We’ve got our own trials,” said Mick. He slipped on his deerskin moccasins. Abbie was left hanging. None of the other Stones seemed to know or care who he was. Mick Taylor asked him for a match. “Bunch of cultural nationalists,” Hoffman said, good-humoredly, as he left. Starting in Chicago, the feel of America changed. Real cities, with tall buildings and older architecture replaced the flat sprawl and unceasing growth of Los Angeles and Phoenix, and the flat, endless landscapes of the Midwest. Arriving in New York, the casual, bell-bottom feel of California and the “Hello again, Holiday Inn”

126

THE TOUR


maze of tunnels that snakes beneath the Garden. The Stones’ security, reinforced by the torpedoes, was pushed to its limits inside the Garden. The pressure to get backstage was unrelenting. By the time the Stones arrived in New York, their presence was felt everywhere. They were praised in the papers and criticized on television. The hard-rock radio stations had their over-amped deejays frothing at the mouth: “The Rolling Stones are in town! Get down! Get down!” The Rolling Stones fans were hyped into a Frenzy. At the edge of the Garden stage, by the barricade where the uniformed security guards stood, was where all that promotional energy that said “You’ve got to have it” slammed into “You can’t go back there.” The labyrinthine tales concocted by the fans, heightened by the general street rap in New York-where truth is never an obstaclewere spilled before the impassive guards: “I’m from Mr. Jagger’s doctor. I have an emergency prescription . . .” “These are urgent legal documents. The show cannot start without . . .” “Listen, you, my father is the attorney general of New York, and when he hears . . .” The mood could turn ugly when worship collided with force. “All you’re gonna get of the Rolling Stones, buddy, is to look at ‘em on the stage. Now back to your seat or you won’t get that.” “Fucking pig.” “I’m warning you.” “Pigfucker!” The Rolling Stones never saw this. Back in the dressing rooms, they were tuning up and holding court, entertaining friends. In New York, there was a smattering of stars. Janis Joplin was in the audience. Jimi Hendrix was in the dressing room. “Mick Taylor and I sat on a bench with Jimi Hendrix, who seemed subdued but pleasant,” remembers Stanley. “I told him about seeing Little Richard in Los Angeles, and he said, smiling as if it cheered him up to think about it, that once when he was with Richard, he and the bass player bought ruffled shirts to wear onstage, and Richard made them change: ‘I am the beauty! Nobody s’poze to wear ruffles but Richard!’ ” Mick Taylor handed his guitar to Hendrix and asked him to play. “Oh, I can’t,” he said. “I have to string it dif-ferent.” Hendrix was left-handed, but he went ahead and played the guitar upside down, wizard that he was. As Hendrix played, I went into the bathroom to talk to Jagger, who was putting mascara on his lashes. Hendrix had tried to take Marianne Faithfull away from Mick, and he wasn’t about to stand around and listen to him play, up-side down or sideways. Jagger seemed distracted, but I figured it was because he was about to go onstage. I didn’t know that elsewhere in his life a black girl was telling him she was going to have his baby, and a blond girl (who two weeks ago had been threatening to join the tour) was telling him good-bye. Back at the Plaza in a few hours, Jo would write in her notebook, “Tried talk Mick imposs-concert fantastic-Mick better but must keep his mind on necessary things.” At that moment the most necessary thing for Mick to do was to hit the stage with the Stones and 134

THE TOUR

“Mick Taylor handed his guitar to Hendrix and asked him to play. ‘Oh, I can’t,’ he said. ‘I have to string it different.’ Hendrix was left-handed, but he went ahead and played the guitar upside down, wizard that he was.” STANLEYBOOTH


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Jill Greenberg regularly shoots advertising

NOVEMBER HARDCOVER

L I T T L E , B R OW N A N D CO M PA N Y

and celebrity portrait photography for such clients as Dreamworks, Sony Pictures, Epson, Entertainment Weekly, Fast Company, and GQ. She lives in Los Angeles with her husband Robert, two children, and a rescue dog. | 33



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Best bear pictures ever; although, the lack of bearded gay men is a little surprising.

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I don’t think my parents liked me. They put a live teddy bear in my crib. E==2G /::3<






! Z\c\YiXk`fe f] eXkli\Ă‹j

dfjk dX^`ZXc Zi\Xkli\j Yp XZZcX`d\[ g_fkf^iXg_\i ?Xifc[ =\`ejk\`e% In ONE HUNDRED BUTTERFLIES, photographer Harold Feinstein showcases buttery varieties from around the world, turning exquisite details into mesmerizing works of art. Feinstein’s breathtaking photographs capture the color, vibrancy, and inďŹ nite variety of patterns that occur on the wings of these ornate insects. One hundred impeccably reproduced, oversized photographs allow viewers to appreciate the Blue Morpho of Central America, the African Birdwing, and the Asian Swallowtail at a scale and depth impossible to experience in nature. An elegantly printed deluxe gift book, it is a treasure for buttery enthusiasts and art lovers alike.

Kja Dqj`na` >qppanĂšeao

t Feinstein’s One Hundred Flowers (978-0-821-22665-0, BulďŹ nch, 2000) has sold over 45,000 copies worldwide. t Feinstein is the author of One Hundred Flowers, One Hundred Seashells (978-0-821-26206-1, BulďŹ nch, 2005), Foliage (978-0-821-22739-8, BulďŹ nch, 2001), The InďŹ nite Rose (978-0-821-22875-3, BulďŹ nch, 2004), The InďŹ nite Tulip (978-0-821-22874-6, Bulfinch, 2004), and Orchidelirium (978-0-821-26205-4, BulďŹ nch, 2007). t Includes an introduction by the author; a foreword by lepidopterist Fred Gagnon, curator of butteries at Magic Wings Buttery Conservatory and Gardens in South DeerďŹ eld, Massachusetts; and buttery-related literary quotations throughout.

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Praise for One Hundred Flowers:

EXk`feXc d\[`X ZXdgX`^e `eZcl[`e^ k\c\m`j`fe# gi`ek# iX[`f# Xe[ fec`e\ `ek\im`\nj

“Feinstein’s photographs are almost pornographic in their ďšźHOUSE & GARDEN luscious detail.â€?

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JKRAI>AN D=N@?KRAN

Harold Feisntein is a distinguished photographer whose career has spanned over 50 years. He lives in Massachusetts.

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