Lonely Planet Pocket Madeira 2nd ed
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2019 Lonely Planet
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Contents
Plan Your Trip
Welcome to Madeira
Top Experiences
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Museums & Galleries
Tours For Kids
Festivals & Events
Beaches & Sea Swimming
Villages
Parks & Gardens
Wine Tasting
For Free
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Madeira Regions
Explore Madeira
West Funchal
East Funchal
North Coast
East Madeira
West Madeira
Mountains of the Interior
Worth a Trip
Levada Paths
Porto Santo
Survival Guide
Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Madeira
Getting Around
Essential Information
Language Behind the Scenes
Our Writer
Welcome to Madeira
Geologically dramatic, bursting with exotic colour and warmed year-round by the Atlantic sun, Portugal’s most enchanting island is a place that keeps all its subtropical holiday promises. Pearl of the Atlantic, island of eternal spring…Madeira well deserves its fanciful nicknames and the affection that visitors and locals alike feel for this tiny volcanic island that offers so much.
Câmara de Lobos fishing village | CRISTIAN BALATE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Quinta das Cruzes
Madeira’s best-preserved mansion house.
MAURICIO ABREU/GETTY IMAGES ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Porto Santo
Madeira’s sand-hemmed sister island.
EVANNOVOSTRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Jardins Botânicos da Madeira
Amazing tropical botanical gardens.
WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences Monte
Funchal’s high-altitude villa quarter.
PLESKYROMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Zona Velha
Characterful old quarter.
STEFAN BERNSMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Mercado dos Lavradores
Funchal’s colourful main market.
WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Curral das Freiras
Madeira’s most dramatically located village.
SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Camacha Wicker Factory
Traditional wicker workshop.
WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Sé
Main place of worship.
JUREK ADAMSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Madeira Top Experiences
Museu de Arte Sacra
Madeira’s finest art collection.
IMAGE COURTESY OF MUSEU DE ARTE SACRA DO FUNCHAL ©
Eating
Eating is one of the joys of visiting Madeira and most will admit the island’s fare is tastebud-friendly. Variety was once an issue, but innovative chefs are introducing a touch of imagination in line with mainland trends. Restaurants are of a good standard everywhere; for quick bites, countless owner-run cafes are cheap as chips.
PACK-SHOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Seafood
Seafood is the big draw, though some restaurants do feature salmon, fruits de mer, prawns and other creatures not from Madeira’s waters. Limpets are about the only shellfish native to Madeira.
Espada vs Espetada
The espada (scabbard fish) is the eel-like monster that will catch your eye at the Mercado dos Lavradores. Caught at night deep in the Atlantic, this spiky-toothed, jelly-eyed beast tastes better than it looks. You’ll only find it on Madeira and some expensive restaurants in Lisbon. Espetada is chunks of beef, smothered in garlic-andlaurel-leaf-infused butter, skewered on a laurel wand and grilled over acacia embers. Many confuse the two!
Fancy Fruits
On a trip around the island, you’ll see many odd fruits dangling. These are most likely the anona (custard apple), the pineapple banana, papaya or the tomate inglês (tamarillo). Madeira’s own sweet miniature bananas are instantly recognisable.
Sugar & Spice
Bolo de mel (sugar syrup cake) tastes a bit like British Christmas pudding and is eaten around that time. Sugarcane biscuits, eucalyptus-infused sweets and custardy Portuguese creations are also widely consumed.
Best Seafood
Gavião Novo One of Funchal’s best restaurants buried deep in the Zona Velha.
Maré Alta Head to Machico’s seafront to enjoy great grilled fish. Doca do Cavacas Superb seafood at the end of Praia Formosa.
Best Hip
The Snug Cool eatery in the Armazém do Mercado with weekend DJ nights.
Boho Bistrô Petite bistro in a busy location in downtown Funchal.
A Confeitaria Funchal’s hippest bakery chain, serving excellent Portuguese pastries and coffee.
Best Traditional
Regional Flavours Relative newcomer to the scene serving the most authentic of Madeiran food.
Venda da Donna Maria Food like granny used to make in an imaginative Zona Velha dining space.
Cantinho da Serra Honestly made traditional food in a rural location near the north-coast village of Santana.
Best Fine Dining
La Perla Dine on gourmet fare in an elegant quinta (mansion) setting in Caniço.
Il Gallo d’Oro One of Madeira’s best dining options with the Michelin star to prove it.
Madeira on a Plate
Scabbard Fish with Banana
PIOTR KRZESLAK/SHUTTERSTOCK
A Uniquely Madeiran Meal
Gourmets may guffaw at this exotic combination, but no dish on the island is more typically Madeiran than scabbard fish with banana. It’s possibly the only plate of food you’ll find everywhere on the island where both of the main ingredients are guaranteed to have come from Madeira’s sea and soil. Most restaurants across the island offer it.
©
Black scabbard fish | CERI BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Top Spots for Scabbard Fish with Banana
Gavião Novo The freshest ingredients and an authentic dining experience at Madeira’s top seafood restaurant.
Regional Flavours Top chefs, perfect service and local ingredients in a superb location.
Casa Madeirense Long-standing favourite serving purely regional dishes in an ancient stone house.
Drinking & Nightlife
Until a few years ago nightlife on Madeira was limited to dinner and a show at the casino, one nightclub and possibly an overdose of sickly poncha. How times have changed, with numerous new bars now spilling out onto the streets and DJs spinning until the early weekend hours, though 99% of the fun is still in Funchal.
MARK BETON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Madeiran Tipples
