Ouray Colorado

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Switzerland of America

Ouray, Colorado, vistas provide as much awe as its history

YOU’VE GOT TO STAND in the

middle of town and turn in a circle to grasp the meaning of Ouray’s moniker. Photos—even panoramic images—don’t do it justice. But standing there, the high peaks feel as if they might close in on you. In one direction, they are tall mounds of striated red rock lined with pines creeping out of each layer, but as you turn slightly, they transition to foreboding gray granite monoliths poking at the clouds with razorsharp peaks. It’s almost too much to take in, but now you know why it’s called the Switzerland of America.

History

In addition to being a majestic scene begging to be photographed, this tiny town

is rich in history and, well, riches. First inhabited by the Ute tribe, nomadic Native Americans traveled here during the summer months to fish, hunt and soak in the hot springs, which they considered sacred. In 1873, Chief Ouray, a multilingual leader of Southern Ute’s Tabeguache and Uncompahgre tribes, relinquished the treasured San Juan territory to encroaching white settlers. Incorporated just three years later, the town was named in the legendary chief’s honor. The settlers sought the area’s rich deposits of silver and gold. Ouray and the surrounding areas were home to more than 30 working mines in the heyday. Camp Bird Mine between Ouray and Telluride produced 1.5 million troy ounces of gold between 1896 and 1990. In the late 1800s, the population exploded from a few hundred to several thousand. With development and growth, including hotels, schools, churches, stores and restaurants, among others, came the railroad and the eventual shift from mining to tourism—although nearly 100 years later—as its mainstay industry.

Adventure

If you want to visit the ghost towns, or remnant mines, that dot the hillsides around the area, you’ll want a four-wheel-drive vehicle, although there are some you can visit by passenger car and some hiking. The Ouray County Historical Museum can offer guidance, historical information and maps to help you locate a plentitude of these ramshackle

remnants of the area’s storied past.

But there’s more to do in Ouray than visiting old mine sites. Check out Box Cañon Waterfalls, where you can hike and cross metal grate bridges and hunch your way through a tunnel to experience the water falling 285 feet into a narrow quartzite canyon. Be sure to go down the metal stairs to the bottom and dip your feet in the chilly but crystal-clear water.

To get a great, almost birds-eye view of the town, hike the 4.4-mile perimeter trail. There are plenty of places to hop on and off this trail, but at the very least, hike the section that will take you to Cascade Falls. There is a narrow, slightly harrowing section and a small scramble, but it’s worth the fright when you feel the mist on your face from behind the waterfall looking out over the town. Do a little “urban” hiking through town to visit the many shops where you’ll find local souvenirs. Favorites include The Blue Pear, Khristopher’s Culinaire, Bloom Modern Mercantile and Ouray Bookshop. Make a stop for a cold local microbrew at Ouray Brewery—this place has the best views and brews in town. Must-try menu items are the elote dip and the green chile burger. (I know what you’re thinking, but just trust me.)

After a day of hiking—“urban” or otherwise—soak sore muscles in those sacred mineral waters the Native Americans loved. If you stroll around town in the early morning or late evening, be vigilant as it’s not uncommon to encounter a bear or two right in town.

Heather Shoning