DRINK
Port authority
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opulent and elegant ports are the essence of autumn drinking • Let the wine snobs debate which wine pairs best with a meal (Thanksgiving or otherwise); bring dinner to a close with a perfectly balanced bottle of port. The fortified wine from Portugal’s Douro Valley is the thinking man’s after-dinner drink: complex enough to inspire talk of its pleasures, sweet yet strong enough to wrap up the meal with a kick. Whether it’s a fresh ruby, a nutty tawny, a bold vintage or an exotic white port, be sure to serve it slightly chilled to let the flavors bloom as you sip.—Heather John
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1. Ruby
The freshest-
tasting and youngest of ports, with bright fruit flavors. Sip straight or use in cocktails in place of aperitifs such as Campari and sweet vermouth.
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2. White
Port made
from white grapes (as opposed to red) is another category entirely and makes for an ideal aperitif. Try Ramos Pinto Branco Reserva.
3. Vintage
4. Tawny
Incredibly
Tawny ports are aged in oak for at least seven years and oxidize in the cask; they show nutty, caramel characteristics. Dow’s is outstanding.
complex vintage ports are made from a single vintage and aged in oak for two years before aging in the bottle for 10 to 40 years.
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the sipping news
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• Fonseca Bin 27 ($20): An intense and velvety ruby port with black-cherry fruit notes. Kopke Colheita 1983 ($88): An elegant tawny with notes of burnt caramel, dried apricots and spice. Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve ($20): This rich ruby port drinks like a vintage with ripe fruit and chocolate flavors. Niepoort Vintage 2009 ($75): A powerhouse vintage port reminiscent of juicy blackberries. It will only gain complexity with age. Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage 2007 ($25): Matured in wood for up to six years, this mellow and smooth wine is ready to drink earlier than a regular vintage port. Photography by Joseph Shin