Hedi,Ming-Lun Jhang Personal Project - Practice
The Tailor's Trunk
MA Interior Design
The Tailor’s Trunk An Evocative Retail and Service Space for the Saville Row tailors 'Norton and Sons' 2014
DESIGN AGENDA Inspired by the intangible culture of traditional British tailoring, workshops and tailors’ retail spaces have been translated into new semiotic design metaphors recreating the essence of the Saville Row tailors in London. An aluminum structure sculpturally represents a contemporary vision for Norton and Sons, showcasing a retail scheme that captures the brand in terms of heritage, and embraces the contemporary innovations that attract a new international consumer market. Graphics, fabric, lighting and narrative decorative details evoke the English gentlemen’s clubhouse and the authentic character of the tailors, whilst introducing a new material aesthetic.
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AGENDA Issues / Problems / Opportunity / Potential Design Innovation
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CONCEPTUAL CONTEXT What / Why / Who / Where
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IDEATION Antithesis / Thesis
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DESIGN MANIFESTO Policies / Principles / Practice
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BRAND IDENTITY Brand Massage / Semiotic Narrative
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CASE STUDY C.A.P.E.S. Analysis / Architectural Analysis / Design Principles
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DESIGN COLLABORATION Who / When / Where / How
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NEED ANALYSIS Client / Staff / Primary Market / Visitors
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INSPIRATION Form / Function / Materials / Technology / Experience / Perception
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT Experimental Process / CAD Testing / User Journey
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FINAL PRESENTATION Aerial Perspective / USP / Facilities Detail
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AGENDA Issues & Problems / Opporitunity / Potential
TA I L O R I N G I S G O I N G I N T O D E C L I N E ISSUES & PROBLEMS Tailoring has a long history of professionalism and was founded in the UK. This technique has now expanded to Asia and become a worldwide craft. However, this industry is going to decline, because it need to spend long working hour to maintain their high quality and also less and less younger tailor join this industry. Therefore, how to maintain their quality but also attract more customers to purchase is the most important issue for tailoring industry.
The Next Trend is Reflect the Customer’s Needs and Desires The tailoring industry already aligns itself closely with the fashion industry to promote its products and they also focus and consider different customer demographic groups. However, many designers still create forms and shapes but do not present them imaginatively in a ‘storytelling’ context. To do this in their future projects is a main development that should be promoted. Therefore, this project aims is to provide opportunities to encourage the new direction of tailoring craftsmanship, in better presenting its spaces, the tailoring industry should reflect the mix of customer’s needs and desires and aim to create individual shopping experiences. Therefore, designing such a narrative should focus on the consumer’s psychology and seek to achieve a greater balance between spaces and consumers.
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03 Fig 1~3: Traditional work: The typical Tailor’s work: Sewing, measuring and clipping (Leszcz. 2010).
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Three Potentials of the Tailoring Retail The comprehension of reviews of tailoring industry, the luxury experience creates a composition of the new hypothesis for the design development: 01. Exclusive tailor's hard working environment by the atmosphere created. This interior design present and reflect the value of handmade tailoring goods. 02. Interior design reveals the aesthetic of new retail experience. The retail design will be transformed to a new interior space to express the boutique service of tailoring service goal. 03. Distinctively designed the high quality retail conveys a metaphor of brand with the craftsmanship of tailoring brand
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05 Fig 4: Timothy Everest: e interior design of Timothy Everest (Timothy Everest. 2014). Fig 5: Gieves and Hawkes: e interior design of Gieves and Hawkes (Gieves and Hawkes. 2014). Fig 6: Traditional work: e typical Tailor’s work: Sewing, measuring and clipping (Leszcz. 2010).
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Atmosphere, Service, Storytelling
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CONCEPTUAL CONTEXT What & Why
T H E T H R E E FA C I L I T I E S An evocative tailoring service space for Saville Row Bespoke accusation. A contemporary reception area for the storage of luggage and cloakroom service. A private room for measuring and promoting the tailors’ Bespoke work.
A memorable impact on the experience of viewing 1. This participatory art experience will be targeted at travellers, within the railway station waiting lobby, and is designed to envelope the viewer with semiotic encoded messages of tailoring working environment forms. 2. Inspired by tailoring tools and presented within a contemporary tailoring workshop setting and then create a memorable impact on the experience of viewing the pop-up art installation. 3. The traditional craft of tailoring conveys the essence of the world of tailoring. Innovative pre-fabricated compartments unlock and open up to facilitate artisan engagement and provide an opportunity to measure customers' bespoke suits.
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07 Fig 7: Pop-up shop: Silent Ventures Pop-up store, London (Retail Design Blog. 2014)
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Two functions of the retail stand 1. Attract local tailors The guerrilla retail stand could attract young tailors to join the market through its appealing aesthetic. This contemporary stand could entice potentially talented tailors to consider tailoring as a career through appearing in vogue. 2. Provide more new markets New markets can help the industry to increase their revenue by raising an awareness of the Savile Row Bespoke Association.
Individual, Contemporary, Culture
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The benefit of the retail stand Customers can understand more about the story of handmade bespoke suits by this space’s interactive presentation in order to communicate a memorable cultural message about the craft of tailoring. Through a narrative stage design scheme – the handmade bespoke suits will be advertised at a railway station to promote an increase in sales and market productivity. The market place will engage in atmospheric installation compartments which have been designed to exhibit and promote the longstanding tailoring community and their work. The contemporary design of these individual retail stalls will playfully promote the value of the tailoring industry. The culture department has a chance to exploit this experience and continue to promote the skills and tradition of bespoke suit-making.
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CONCEPTUAL CONTEXT Who & Where
SAVILE ROW BESPOKE ASSOCIATION
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Orient Express The Orient Express is the name of a long-distance passenger train service that was originally operated by the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits. At present, the Venice-Simplon Orient Express train, continues to run from London to Venice and other destinations in Europe.
Savile Row Bespoke Association The aim of the association, the British tailoring group, is to protect and develop the art of bespoke tailoring. Its members are typically required to put at least 50 hours of handcrafted labour into each two-piece suit.
Fig 8-9: Orient Express: A luxury train through Europe, oering a luxury train travel experience and holidays (Simplon Orient Express. 2014).
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Graceful, Experiential, Evocative
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Fig 10: Orient Express: A luxury train through Europe, oering a luxury train travel experience and holidays (Simplon Orient Express. 2014).
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The Potential Users
11 Fig 11: Montage: The potential user (Author. 2014).
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Potential Costomers: Male customers who need bespoke suits. Moreover, their partner or friends should be the secondary market for the retail stand.
Tailors and their assessments are also requited.
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S I R K E C I T E R M I N A L , I S TA N B U L L O C AT I O N The Orient Express travels between London, Paris, Venice and Istanbul and the Orient Express Istanbul Station is located in the Sirkeci Terminal and is classed as an international station. The Sirkeci Terminal station’s lobby is a two floor high-ceilinged building with Islamic style architecture which has an arched roof and flower symbols on the windows and doors. The “Tailor’s trunk” exhibition will be displayed in the waiting room of the railway station.
Site Information The lobby of Sirkeci Terminal is a 12000 x 12000 x 12000 MM cube. The centre is a four floor-higher ceiling and whole space is no structure in the centre area. Therefore, it is a perfect station pace for "Architectural intervention". The area is European Orientalism style because traveller can see the window and door exist Islam flower symbols but also have western contract shape in their structure the the the mixed atmosphere is accessible.
Commodity The Sirkeci Terminal, Istanbul is a terminus main station and is part of the Turkish State Railways (TCDD) in Sirkeci, on the European side of Turkey. The terminal building covers an area of 1,200 m2 and the main lobby has is a two floor high-ceiling which is one of the most famous examples of European Orientalism in the world. Further to this, the terminal restaurant has become a meeting point for journalists, writers and other celebrities inthe media.
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Memorable, Traditional, Pop-up
Fig 12~13: Istanbul Sirkeci Terminal: It is a terminus main station of the Turkish State Railways (TCDD) in Sirkeci. From 12 to 13 is surface and the lobby (Simplon Orient Express. 2014).
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Antisis
Childish, colourful doesn't fit the project.
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Thesis
The project is considering more about
Exquisite, Harmony, Delight
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DESIGN MANIFESTO Policies & Principles
Opportunities = Service + Experience + Creative POLICIES Three Policies of Contemporary Tailoring Retail To sum of the report, there are few conclusions should be considered in design and the tailoring retail stands are often following these rules: 1. The background chosen needs to be easier to reflect the products for a retail stand. 2. The tailoring retails focus on serving goal rather then sell or display products. 3. Retail needs to become a trip within customers’ inner selves to satisfy customers’ complex need.
High Quality, Modern, Narrative 024
14 Fig 14: e luxury social lobby: e typical dressing male sitting on the contemporary chair (FRANK. 2014).
The Design Principles of the Retail Stand 1. This overall design scheme will communicate the cultural craft of tailoring in a narrative spatial intervention and will use deconstructive architectural concepts in its space design. 2. This design scheme will promote the conservation of tailoring by constructing a delightful, illuminating architectural structure that creates a memorable modern experience for a participatory audience of travellers. 3. This design scheme will enable - modular architecture to be configured to form a retail design to showcase the craft of tailoring. Contemporary constructions will transmit sculpturally encoded messages about tailoring and the individual service market place. 025
DESIGN MANIFESTO Design Practice
The developing process for the project
INSPIRATION
IDEATION
SKETCHING
MODELING
PERSENTATION
SKETCH 3 weeks
TESTING 3 weeks
FINAL 2 weeks
The schedule for design project
RESEACH 2 weeks
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CONCEPTUALIZATION
2 weeks
The design method for this project The case studies have also been of great importance in this project as most important retailers cn found in Savile Row, London, therefore, images of the tailoring outfits "ANDERSON & SHEPPARD" and "RICHARD JAMES" have been selected.
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CULTURAL IDENTITY W1 Savile Row, City of Western, Londin
H I S T O R I C A L S T R E E T / M A S S A G E o f L U X U RY S AV I L E R O W
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Savile Row is a street in Mayfair, central
The Savile Row Bespoke Association was
London. Known principally for its traditional
founded in 2004 with the aim of protecting
bespoke tailoring for men, the street has
and developing the art of bespoke tailoring
had a varied history that has included
on Savile Row. Today, the Row continues
accommodating the headquarters of the Royal
to flourish – the home to more than a dozen
Geographical Society at 1 Savile Row. The
bespoke tailoring businesses, employing
freehold is owned by the Pollen Estate, who
over 100 working craftsmen that form the
works in partnership with Westminster City
centre of a unique community in London’s
Council to protect the street's tailoring heritage
West End. Savile Row is a community that not
under the Savile Row Special Policy Area.
only creates a unique English luxury product but also consider about protect historical environment assets.
Fig 15: e contemporary lobby: e entrance shows the brand image which is elegant and high stand (Nizar. 2012). Fig 16: Luxury & Quality: e golden scissors and Brandy show the mature brand experience in here (Campbell. 2014).
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Traditional Signature & The Symbol of Art Piece & Innovation Style The traditional bespoke suit only ensures their clothes of high quality and builds the luxury brand image. However, the Savile Row Bespoke Association not only serves experience products, also for profit association is founded to fulfil the following roles: 01. Protecting Intellectual Property 02. Developing Training Initiatives 03. Promoting the Art of Bespoke Tailoring 04. Ensuring Quality 05. Addressing Collective Probl 06. To Protect and Promote London as an International Capital of Men’s Elegance (Savile Row Bespoke, 2014)
Semiotic Narrative of High-Quality Service This Golden Scissor is a symbol for association because it emblems two things for this industry. Firstly, the scissor explains the bespoke suits are all hand-made. Secondly, the Golden Scissor illustrates the high quality for bespoke suits. On the other hand, this historic street is full a variety of different forms of tailoring retail. They often display some important furniture to emphasis the metaphor of luxury: chandeliers, contemporary classical chairs and fireplaces are the most common be displayed. The industry is not only selling luxury products but more importantly is enhancing high- quality service. Overall, commodities and the atmosphere of the tailoring retail are often presented elegant tone for customers.
Innovation, Craftsmanship, Bespoke 030
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Fig 17~18: Bespoke Suit: e measurement service is necessary for bespoke suit (Henry Poole & Co. 2014). Fig 19: A showing room: e showing room is presenting the quality and it not only displaying the products (Wordpress. 2014).
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CASE STUDY ANALYSIS Timothy Everest Tailoring Retail
Architectural Analysis The studio is covering four
The retail uses Light
The studio keeps the vintage
levels, the house is ideally
commercial construction which
atheistic but also brings
suited to its function as a tailor’s
is the most common in stores
contemporary elements such
workshop yet its interiors
and studios. This retail is full
as plan different colours and
allude to an artist's dwelling.
of displays area so they used
display postmodern furniture.
Lobby is the most important
thin materials such as timber in
The spotlight should be
area which presents vintage
these structures and showcase’
considered; the environment
symbol in shape but the colour
it allows replacement easier
atmosphere could be seen
chosen is more modern such
and pop-up quick. In the
in dissimilar lightings design.
as yellow and blue- grey. In
end, the lighting is the most
Overall, the tailoring retail is
addition, the chandelier is also
important technology because
gaol to create a luxury serve
an indispensable symbol.
it can strengthen showcase of
experience in customer’s
a small space.
psychology.
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21 Fig 20~21: Timothy Everest tailoring retail: A Timothy tailoring retail shows the modern classical atmosphere (Timothyeverest.2014).
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22 Fig 22: Timothy Everest tailoring retail: A Timothy tailoring retail shows the modern classical atmosphere (Timothyeverest.2014).
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C.A.P.E.S. Analysis Timothy Everest has been running the tailoring business in Spittalfields, London for over 20 years. However, the trouser market at the local market was his inspiration. This could be the reason of his collocation is trend to younger and more popularization then other tailoring brands.
It aesthetic as being very British and slightly quirky, with an emphasis on playful use of texture, colour and pattern. Thus the playful concept makes the brand trend to younger.
Timothy Everest often joints with other fashion brand such as Superdry to present. This activity improves more ‘Timothy Everest’ market and the finance. This concept is extremely useful to bring into this tailoring project.
The main sources of income comes from Mark & Spencer collaboration, because it is cheaper which allows more customers group accept it. Thus, this project is also considered with successful brand joint to promote the new tailoring market.
In the end, Timothy Everest owns one of London’s most reputable tailoring studios. The retail is not founded in Savile Row but it is more successful than other famous tailoring brand because of its bold new ideas and fashion joint experience.
Unique, Relevance, Mixable 035
23 Design Principles Analysis The retail uses the three design principles for building a luxury environment: ‘Simplicity’, ‘Uniqueness’ and ‘Relevance’. All of the furniture and colours are mixable and comfortable. Although it is designed a lot of colour range but the atmosphere is still balance. It keeps traditional elements but jumps to a younger design volume. For instance, they put in a chandelier but the size is smaller which also presents the vintage tone in here but the studio is not too complex. 036
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Fig 23~24: Timothy Everest tailoring retail: A Timothy tailoring retail shows the modern classical atmosphere (Timothyeverest.2014).
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CASE STUDY ANALYSIS Kilgour Tailoring Retail
C O N T E M P O R A RY TA I L O R I N G R E TA I L CASE STUDY
Design Principles Analysis This brand is followed pure concept to creative their interior and all of colour is white By this colour range to present the products. Afterward, consider the mood creativity of General Merchandise rather than alters the display. This is another thinking which is focus on customers’ vision. Overall, it can be bringing into the final retail design project.
Fig 25~27: Kilgour tailoring store: A Kilgour tailoring retail shows the pure and elegant atmosphere (Kilgour. 2014)
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Fig 28: Kilgour tailoring store: A Kilgour tailoring retail shows the pure and elegant atmosphere (Kilgour. 2014)
Architectural Analysis
White, Calm, Relax The interior design concept of Kilgour emphasises a bright, well defined and unccluttered space; it has clear lines and so is easy for the eye to navigate. The bright space is not complex and has been designed to appeal to the brand's high-end customer demographic. Kilgour is committed to ‘Extend Sustainable Sourcing‘; this is demonstrated within the space by the choice of materials. It features eco-friendly furniture, some of which are built from recycled items. At the same time, the tone of the store presents a welcoming feeling in its construction. The store's colour scheme helps its products to become a clear focal point, as they are contrast well against the pure white background. The space's large area does not become overbearing because it is balanced by the overall design aesthetic. Customers will feel free and relax when they shop and/or visit.
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C.A.P.E.S. Analysis Kilgour has been making bespoke suits since 1880, and its handmade bespoke suits are all created entirely on Savile Row in London. The brand became Kilgour in 2003. They injected a modern spirit into the house's traditional Savile Row artisanal practices. Brandelli used his own background as a contemporary fashion designer to fuse together two different design codes in order to create the street’s first genuinely modern aesthetic. Kilgour is the choice of men who want style informed by the past but not shackled to it. Each bespoke suit is unique to you alone. Essentially, Kilgour makes the quintessential contemporary tailored look, as worn over the years by style icons including, Bryan Ferry, David Adjaye, David Chipperfield even James Bond. Each suit takes approximately 80 hours to produce. The entire process takes six to eight weeks, depending on how busy the studio is. The individual bespoke takes a lot of time but it will fetch a high income when finished. Each bespoke suit is unique to you alone. Essentially, Kilgour makes the quintessential contemporary tailored look, as worn over the years by style icons including, Bryan Ferry, David Adjaye, David Chipperfield even James Bond.
Fig 29: Advertising of Kilgour tailoring store: An advertising of Kilgour tailoring retail shows the pure and elegant atmosphere (Kilgour. 2014)
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DESIGN COLLABORATION Pieter Kool
Pieter Kool is a retail designer and director of G-star. His technical solutions show the creative force within on daily basis. He has designed some of the fashion brand’s most iconic catwalks and fair stands. While studying at Delft University of Technology, he developed the G-Star Store of the Future. His concept is a space that would be as light and open as possible so that no matter where customers are, everyone can see what’s happening. Everything from furniture to lighting needs to reflect brand’s vision. In Kool's view: ‘clothes and space share the same inspiration. For instance, constructing denim around someone’s legs is no different than building an ergonomic chair’. Because of this, the retail space needs to reflect the products’ quality and narrative design. ‘Retail stands don’t like secret rooms that are off limits to customers’.
Pieter Kool Fr e s h & Ta l e n t Retail Designer 044
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Fig 31: Pieter Kool: Pieter Kool has designed some of the fashion brand's most iconic catwalks and fair stands and he is a G star director nowadays (NRC Next. 2013).
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D I S P L AY F O R M V I S I T O R KEY FINDING
31 According to this concept, a contemporary retail establishment should remove its walls to better connect with more people. ‘The Tailor’s Trunk’ retail stand will use this approach to design. In order to attract more customers, the space should ‘Force visitors to focus’. Ultimately, ‘A physical retail space needs to be incredibly swift’ which means the pop-up retail stand could be a trend in the future. 01. The pop-up retail stand could be a future trend which is eco-friendly, easier to display and convenient for products presentation. 02. The form of the retail space should come from the products; it needs to reflect the essence and the quality of goods. 03. The contemporary retail stand should make its space more open and encourage more visitors. A successful retail stand needs a focal point to attract the visitors’ attention then give more opportunities.
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Convenience Essence Opportunities
Fig 31~32: Linear retail display: A Winkel Precinct 5 in Amsterdam door KUUB in Pieter Kool. A project and his concept can joint in nal retail design (de Architect. 2014).
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NEED ANALYSIS Client & Staff
N O RT O N & S O N S CLIENT There are thirteen members in this association which including “ALEXANDER MCQUEEN”, “GIEVES & HAWKES” “RICHARD JAMES” and “KILGOUR”. The association protecting and developing the art of bespoke tailoring on Savile Row. The retail is connecting with the association to provide a new space setting experience and then offer different customers needed. This retail stand will choose ‘Norton & Sons’ to development because it is elegant, contemporary and high visibility. Afterward, this successful retail design could be a sample for other members’ pop-up tailoring house for designing.
Elegant, High-End, Contemporary,
Hospitality Staff There is two staff requirement. One of
Second stuff also need to regale customer
them needs to waiting in the lobby area
family when they are coming but more
and his work is going to regale customer
important working content is focusing
family which including placing luggage
on female’s needed which including
and hanging clothes when they are
accompany her picks products such as
coming. On the other hand, he needs to
ties and fedora. Moreover, checkout is also
stay in the lobby for servicing for security.
his job. This is the most important part because woman is allowed to spend more money for shopping and she is often has more sense than male customers that she needs to be given a cordial hospitality.
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Fig 34: The logo of Norton & Sons: The logo design of Norton & Sons which is full of aesthetic creative (Human Resources. 2014).
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Patrick Grant TA I L O R
Tailoring and Assessing Tailor’s main work is measuring. He can’t make suits from the bespoke room because this retail is small size and pop-up function. Assessment who is a younger and fresh tailor helps main tailor’s work more quickly and he also needs to record customer’s contact information when customer has problem. Overall, both of them are working in the private space and then come back to main making house for bespoke end products. For this project, the main tailor could be Patrick Grant who is the main tailor servingin Norton & Sons.
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Fig 34: Patrick Grant: Patrick Grant is a tailor and designer in Norton & Sons. He presents the younger aesthetic in this industry (Sissydude. 2014).
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NEED ANALYSIS Target Market & Visitors
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Fig 35: Target Market: From left to right: Damian Kimmelman, Male Socialite: Daniel Day-Lewis, CEO: Philip Green (Google image. 2014).
U S E R P O RT F O L I O TA R G E T M A R K E T
Refined, Prosperous, Discerning Male customers who require bespoke suits between ages 30 to 75 years old Damian Kimmelman is a young entrepreneur and his Duedil stands proudly as the largest database of free company financials in the world. He presents the target market in this case; YOUNG and PROFESSIONAL. Young Businessman: Damian Kimmelman (1982) Daniel Day-Lewis is an English actor and he is one of the most acclaimed actors of his generation and has earned numerous awards. His style is connected with the funky customers in this project. Male Socialite: Daniel Day-Lewis (1957) Philip Green is the CEO of the Arcadia Group which includes Topshop, BHS and Dorothy Perkins. He often travel personality is suitable this case and he is also putting in the oldest customer group for the project. CEO: Philip Green (1952)
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C U S T O M E R ' S PA RT N E R A N D F R I E N D S S E C O N D A RY M A R K E T
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Women often have more sense for clothes and dress up and also they allowed to spent more money and time in this object. The contemporary retail need to consider both male and female customer’s requirement for receive more sources of income.
Fig 36: Secondary Market: It presents dierent customers’ types from left to right: Daniel Day-Lewis’s wife, Daniel Day-Lewis (target market with partner), Philip Green’s daughter, Philip Green’s wife, Philip Green (target market with family), Damian Kimmelman’ friend, Damian Kimmelman (targe tmarket with friends) (Google image. 2014).
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INSPIRATION Form / Function & Experience / Perception
Easier, Smaller, Lighter, Form & Function “The Tailor’s Trunk” is a luxury tailoring retail which is pop-up style and it will be put in the different train stations of Orient Express. The overall inspiration is coming from the tailor’s new working behaviour: tailors take their own toolbox to travel around and serve high society males for luxury bespoke suits. This is idea could expand more markets for this decline industry. Trunk is representing the image of mature and elegant of this industry. The retail’s forms and functions are coming from the tailors’ working tools in the trunk and evolving from three different elements: fabric rolls, cut & measure tools and iron tools.
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EXPERIENCE PERCEPTION I N S P I R AT I O N
The tailoring retail is serving boutique experiences and also focusing on individual private perception. Stuffs will only entertain one male including his family or friends every time, because it gives customer more opportunity to obtain high quality experience from this setting. In addition, customer already selected from cooperation with Orient Express that everyone is rich and sensible. Overall, there are three points for this retail experiences: 1. Making guests feel special treatment experience from whole retail setting. 2. Exhibition area is presenting the contemporary atmosphere in delight. 3. Individual bespoke room is private which creates confidence emotion to guests.
Pure, Luxury, Stylish,
CAD Drawing of Colour Palette Material Pallette
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Colour Pallette
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Materials & Technology The material is inspired from trunk which is lather outside and fabric inside. Thus this retail stand will consider with adding fabric design. Moreover, the material is connecting with the contemporary appearance that the lather is white colours and the fabric will design in plain or add little line and/or plaid patterns. On the other hand, Aluminium System has been developed specifically for the design and creation of flexible bespoke structures. This structure system can easily be designed, manufactured and distributed top-of-the-range display systems for bespoke exhibition stands and display units. Therefore, the retail stand’s structure will be used this material structure.
Eco-Friendly, Thinner, Guerrilla
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38 Fig 37~38: Exhibition systems: The Aluminium exhibition is the main design structure for this project (Google image. 2014).
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT Design Dirgam
The Diagram of The Retail Stand Finding new potential markets is the main idea for this retail and art installation and it has been devised to promote interest, to broaden the UK’s tailoring market audience and increase profitability. The diagram indicates that most income comes from selling related products, not only the suits. These products are cheaper, more affordable and are predicted to make more profit than the customised suits.
Represent Attract Promotion
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2. The retail for promoting
1. Find new markets
3. Bespoke suit
TRILORING PROMOTING FIVE STEPS
5. Obtain more income
4. Sell related products
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT Three Facilities & User Vision
ZONE 3
ZONE 2
ZONE 1
The Ideas of The Retail Stand The overall idea originated from the tailors’ trunk which represents a new tailoring style, it advocates travelling around different areas and appearing more professional not to mention in vogue. Its user function and the function of spaces have been designed to shine a spotlight on the world of tailoring. Tailoring should be high end and high quality and this space has not only been designed as a retail space but also as an artwork.
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Focal Point
Second View
Third View
The Vision for Visitors Visitors will first of all see the dramatic shape and beauty of the hanging focal point. The second view is of the whole retail’s outfit that promotes quality through value. Finally, the entrance design should be considered, it needs to represent high quality artistic integrity but also attract visitors to come in, peruse and spend money.
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT Development Process
DEVELOPMENT PROCESS I N S P I R AT I O N
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1.
2.
3.
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT 2D Idea & Compasition
Lobby of train station
The Location of The Retail Stand The train station’s lobby is 12000 x 12000mm cubed and the space is limited. The
3000mm
Retail stand
3000mm
pavement cannot be consumed by the installation as station users need to access the walkway.
Platform of train station (12000mm cube)
The Connection Area 1. Stairs & Equipment for wheelchair (lift) 2. Exhibition for promoting the craftsmanship
Stairs & lift
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Exhibition
Lobby
Magazine
The Ground Floor Clever valet
1. Coat hanger stand
4000mm
2. Bellhop cart
Movement
3. Showcase 4. Lobby area for family 5. Reception (two people) 6. Luggage storage 7. Stairs area
Luggage
8. Magazine boards for male and female
Reception
Stairs
6000mm
The First Floor Dressing room Measuring area
Sofa
1. Measuring area 2. Clever valet
4000mm
3. Tailor’s working and design area
Movement
(A tailor and an assistant needed) 4. Directory and/or signature area (including furniture) 5. Dressing area
Working area
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT Form / Function & Facilities
Three Tools x Three Forms
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The Trunk encapsulates elegance of the industry. The retail stand’s forms and functions derive from the tailors’ working tools laid in a trunk and evolve from three different types of tools: fabric rolls, cutting & measuring tools and ironing tools.
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1.
3.
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2.
1. Fabric Rolls
2. Cut & Measure Tools
This form will be transform to the focal points
The main function is “connect� such as
and the design will connect with lighting and
stairs and ramp area. It can easily to change
ceiling function for presenting.
different regular or irregular surfaces by this soft shape.
3. Iron Tools This Form is the main shape of the popup retail. It is suited a pop-up retail form because it is easy to assemble and install. It will be designed in different scale and layer to create an interesting square place. 073
ZONE 3 The display area has been designed to appear crisp, clean and elegant with a dramatic focal point hanging from the ceiling. The shape of the focal point has taken its inspiration from ‘fabric rolls’.
ZONE 1 The third area is a reception area and a main lobby for customers. This zone should be simple and designed to be more functional for, for example, the storage of coats and luggage. This area is the initial point of contact and ‘service’ for all customers.’. 074
ZONE 2 The hallway area is an irregular shape which has a spiral form that represents the tailors’ measuring tape. The tape represents the importance of the skill and care that goes into making garments. This area will include a staircase, ramp, an exhibition and showcase.
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT The Demand of Staff & Space Composition
Main customers: Male customers who require bespoke suits between the ages of 30 to 65 years old.
Target Market Minimal Staff Servicer x 1
Men
Men
Men
Minimal Staff -
with
with
with
Servicer x 2
Wife
Family
Friends
RECEPTION & EXHIBITION
Maximun People x 5
Space Required
R. Reception M. Measuring Room E. Exhibition
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Three Ideas
Bespoke staff: Both the tailor and assistant are only working for the main male.
Staff - Tailor x 1 & Assistant x 2
MEASURING ROOM
Maximun People x 3
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT The Three Concepts
1.
The single floor design offers access to all age groups including the disabled, elderly and travellers with young children.
Advantage: It is easier and more convenient to manage the security of a simple structure. Disadvantage: The aesthetic will be more traditional and predictable. A bigger area will be needed with private spaces being harder to accommodate.
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2.
A vertical distribution design will avoid the wasting of too much space.
Advantage: Avoid the wasting of space, easy to design a focal point to attract visitors, the layer will allow the aesthetic to appear more diverse and interesting. Disadvantage: From a safety perspective this is problematic because the space is too open.
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This blended space design will promote more diverse activities such as gallery experience and by this concept to increase more visitors.
Advantage: A more flexible use of the space such as different layers creates. Disadvantage: The necessary setting of barrier-free facilities will need more space in this retail stand.
THE CHOSEN CONCEPT CONCEPT THREE The limited scale of using of a small railway station should be considered, thus the third idea chosen is the most appropriate. This concept of vertical and mixed space design will promote the aesthetic of the retail stand as more Avant guard; visitors can shuttle easily from one space to another and get a new exhibition experience. On the other hand, the hanging focal point is another important spotlight design for this retail stand; the fluid and circular art installation will be more unique; attracting viewers’ attention and hopefully footfall. Overall, the retail stand will be designed as a vertical art installation to fit the boutique experience of the tailoring industry’s quest to broaden its market.
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3.
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT The Final Transformations
2.
1.
3.
5.
4.
6.
Bring the volume of clothes structure and also adding vertical linear element into this retail stand, that the small pop-up space becomes more playful for visitors.
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7.
01. The timber structure of the pop-up retail 02. The main exhibition area 03. The hanging showcases 04. The stairs 05. The focal point (advertising volume) 06. The pravite bespoke area 07. The dressing room
05.
08. The tailors’ measuring area 09. The pop-up lift 10. The contemporary fireplace 11. The main lobby (include the storage for luggage) 12. The reception
01. 07.
06. 08. 02. 03.
09. 11. 04.
10. 12.
The Overall Plan for the Retail Stand 083
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT 3D Model Testing
THE TESTING PROCESS THE FIVE STEPS 01. Built the model structure 02. Manage the overall form and construction 03. Design details, texture and lighting 04. Consider and compare with colours range 05. Display in the railway station
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1.
2.
3.
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4.
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT 4D Storyboard & User Journey
02. 01.
04.
03. 05.
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06.
Tailors’ routes
01. Centre of the Store Display
Customers’ routes
02. Entrance of The Tetail Stand
Visitors’ routes
03. Customer’s Lobby
Staffs’ routes
04. The Reception 05. Entrance of the Retail Stand 06. Main Customers’ Bespoke Area
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FINAL PRESENTATION Overview
INDIVIDUAL ADAPT UNIQUE F I N A L P R E S E N TAT I O N
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C.A.P.E.S. Analysis CULTURAL
POLICY
Tailoring is a traditional handmade craft
This retail stand will focus on one customer
and focuses on providing a bespoke service
each time because individual service can allow
experience as well as selling products.
customers to receive one-to-one, individual
Nowadays, most tailoring has a service
care.
experience essence and therefore the three narrative facilities such as the lobby to relax in, the shop and private bespoke area all permit an individualised bespoke service.
ECONOMIC The primary profitable items are the peripheral products such as shoes and ties. However, the most important aim is to focus on effective
AESTHETIC
marketing that enhances more bespoke suit
The overall interior design colour is white
selling in the Saville Row.
and silver. These colours are easy to show the products and present a balanced and harmonious experience. The focus is on the design of a high quality space and therefore luxury and elegant furniture are used in this design project.
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SOCIAL Tailoring is currently in decline. The future goal is therefore to increase the popularity of Saville Row so that this craft can continue to hold a place in today’s clothing market.
Architectural Analysis This retail stand offers a relaxing lobby area, shop, and a private room. Each space is exists in its own separate area but also joins together in overall design. Moreover, a pop-up lift is offered so that customers can easily shuttle around. Rather than selling their products in a showcase, he main focus for this stand is the delivery of a high-quality service because that is expeceted from a tailoring retail business. The pop-up retail is designed as an exhibition structure system, to maximise its economy and convenient. This is exemplified in its white wall and silk curtain construction; these materials also make the whole exhibition lighter and softer in its apperance. The white marble floor and contemporary carpet from the rug company compliments the fine quality of the brand's tailored products and emphasises their luxury. Within the pure white retail display space, contrast is provided by the black furniture and red spotlight colour. Lighting is also important. For instance, illuminating the high hanging advertisement with clevery designed lighting can more easily attract the viewers’ attention. The giant contemporary chandelier also successfully presents a luxury atmosphere within the lobby area. Ultimately, this is not only a luxury pop-up retail stand for high stand customers but also functions as an art installation for travellers. If the space can appeal on these two differentlevels, then its viewers will enjoy a richer experience.
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FINAL PRESENTATION The Detail Setting
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FINAL PRESENTATION Facility One
The Reception & Boutique Lobby A symbolic contemporary space which provides an individual boutique experience for visitors.
Zone One: The overall space is simple but unpredictable so that the customer can get a varied experience from the retail stand. There is a simple aesthetic of colours in which clothes are displayed against a white background. The white colour gives the space an elegance and purity; perfect for relaxation. The floor is made of white marble, the Moooi furniture is apolstered in leather, paper lamp shades help set the mood and the background features a long silk curtain. A red line is set in contrast against the white structure so that it may easily catch the visitor’s eye.
Extravagance, Comfort, Tranquility The Design Outcomes of Zone One This art and craft concept is for a transitional space at the Orient Express, Istanbul Station and is designed to promote the value of tailoring industry in today’s climate.
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FINAL PRESENTATION Facility Two
The Artistic Display A narrative retail space that showcases luxury products for women and men.
Zone Two: Shopping can be a social activity. It is about looking and being looked at. This retail stand therefore is about visual enjoyment. Visitors may view its different levels and this can be compared to a gallery experience. On reaching the centre of the shop, visitors can enjoy an unobstructed view upto highest focal point. It is also an intention that the visual design of the shop area might also attract their attention and capture their interest before they enter the retail space. An Aluminium exhibition structure system has been used; which is lighter, eco-friendly and very easy to display and remove.
Adorning, Dynamic, Ornamental The Design Outcomes of Zone Two This narrative retail design concept for a tailoring service market place will offer a last minute shopping opportunity for travellers and a boutique shopping experience.
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FINAL PRESENTATION Facility Three
The Private Measuring Area A private space that measures specific clothes for male customers.
Zone Three: A good lighting design should work in harmony with its surroundings. One must consider how lighting that is adequate to the funtion of this bespoke space can be provided. This area also uses an Aluminium exhibition structure system. The construction materials are covered by a silk curtain. On entering the fitting room, customers will pull down an opaque curtain to ensure privacy. The furniture is also sourced from the Moooi Company and the carpet, a product of the Rug Company. Both of theses are considered luxury products. In addition to their high quality, they are all eco-friendly .
Chaste, Personify, Special The Design Outcomes of Zone Three This private space design concept for a tailoring handmade place will offer an individual boutique service experience for male travellers.
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FINAL PRESENTATION Unique Sell Point
The USP of ‘The Tailor’s Trunk’ This is a great example of industries that know the value of market oriented promotions. Firstly, the most important goal is to provide an excellent service to high end customers in this artistic retail stand. People buy tailoring product based on their desire for luxury and glamour, not only on their needs. This retail stand offers a unique individualised service rather than simply selling products; the ripple effect of this will be the promotion of the tailoring industry in Saville Row. In addition, this pop-up retail stand will create a similar atmosphere to a gallery. The white background represents the luxury features of modern tailoring stores. Furthermore, travellers will be attracted to the vision of the giant hanging advertisement and visit this retail stand to appreciate its aesthetic value. In conclusion, the tailoring retail installation is elegant, contemporary and creative embodying the spirit of the brand as well as being of innovative lightweight design. 108
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REFERENCES
Fig 1~3: Benjamin Leszcz (2010), Traditional work, Available at: http://dailyxy.com/article/who-is-montreals-best-tailor/ Fig 4: Bespoke tailor (2012), Measuring, Available at: http://raja-fashions.com/ Fig 5: Timothy Everest (2014), Timothy Everest, Available at: http://www. scabal.com/ Fig 6: Gieves and Hawkes (2014), Gieves and Hawkes, Available at: http://www.gievesandhawkes.com/ Fig 7: Retail Design Blog (2014), Pop up shop, Available at: http://retaildesignblog.net/tag/east-london/ Fig 8~10: Simplon Orient Express (2014), Orient Express, Available at: http://www.worldtraintravel.com/trains/venice-simplon-orient-express/prices/ Fig 12~13: Simplon Orient Express (2014), Istanbul Sirkeci Terminal, Available at: http://bezienswaardighedenistanbul.nl/tag/uit-eten-in-istanbul/ Fig 14: FRANK (2014), The luxury social lobby, Available at: http://www.frankadvertising.ca/work/indochino Fig 15: Jallouli Nizar (2012), The contemporary lobby, Available at: http://feel-luxury.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/classicist-dunhills-timeless-luxury-for.html Fig 17~18: Henry Poole & Co (2014), Bespoke Suit, Available at: http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/science/medicine/article3721117.ece Fig 19: Wordpress (2014), The showing room, Available at: http://essentialbritish.wordpress.com/hand-built-things/ Fig 20~24: Timothyeverest (2014), Timothy Everest tailoring retail, Available at: http://timothyeverest.co.uk/ Fig 25~29: Kilgour (2014) Kilgour tailoring store, Available at: http://kilgour.com/ Fig 30: NRC Next (2013), Pieter Kool, Available at: http://rogercremers.com/portfolio_page/pieter-kool/ Fig 31~32: de Architect (2014), Linear retail display, Available at: http://www.dearchitect.nl/projecten/2010/06/Amsterdam+KUUB+Precinct+5/galerijen/beeld.html?picIndex=5&picName=IMG_72~1.JPG#foto Fig 33: Human Resources (2014), The logo of Norton & Sons, Available at: http://welcometohr.com/2009/01/07/moving-brands/ Fig 34: Sissydude (2014), Patrick Grant, Available at: http://sissydude.com/2013/04/24/sorry-grant-but-patrick-grant-is-my-new-boyfriend/ Fig 35: Google image (2014), Target Market, Available at: google.com Fig 36: Google image (2014), Secondary Market, Available at: google.com Fig 37~38: Google image (2014), Exhibition systems, Available at: google.com
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