Hedonist Magazine, 4th issue by Hedonist Magazine

lifestyle magazine of inspired images

issue dedicated to men and more

If you think someone was staring at you: Yawn. If they yawn back they were staring.

Hedonist Magazine | hedonistmagazine.co.uk

spring/summer 2014 Editor-in-chief & Creative director Sam Afadama

Advertising, internship and other enquiries and contributions to the magazine should be addressed to info@hedonistmagazine.co.uk

Art director Maria Mokina

Published three times a year by Hedonist Media London Ltd. 2014 Printed in UK by polestar

Fashion editor Minna Attalla

Texts editors Alice Sambrook Ella lines

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Giselle fox Chloe Sadchev

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Copyright © Hedonist Magazine London 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the author.

content

editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s letter

photography: Faces & places

Neukolln: The ever-changing borough of Berlin

Special Project: When I Grow Up

All That Glitters

The Pattern of Modernity

Disrobed

100

Rainbow Warrior

112

YMC

118

A Day In The Life Of Mark Powell

music

126

Monumental Art by Angela Fraleigh

Living on the rock: No Longer My Burden band

136

Urban Surrealism: interview with Argentine street

The Valottes: Swedish-English Indie Rock act

Truth Of Dare

Art

artist Martin Ron 144

Fractions

147

Jemima Robinson about her and Millinery

Greed: a bank fraud's confession

150

This is interesting

On Agenda

152

Short stories

155

Somebody Said that

Core { life story } 60

Children as weapons: Separation of a father and daughters

Fashion 70

John Mullan Scissorhands

p. 08

p. 43

p. 70

p. 76

p. 54

p. 126 6

p. 60

p. 136

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Letter

his issue is dedicated to men. Just because it's their turn. This issue is a bridge between youth and maturity, a bridge between men of established classes and those who shop in the high street. A man must look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them. And as always, at Hedonist, we exploit the stories that matters to you providing London' s young talent in the world of fashion, music, art, photography and design with a platform of their work, getting them in front of the names that matter and championing the city's talent and keeping the eyes of the world focused on London. And one more thing. Always remember there are no old men, only the young and dead.

Thank you to everybody involved in this issue. Sam Afadama and the team at Hedonist Magazine

faces & places

by Honorata Karapuda | Valencia

by Ronya Galka | London

by Honorata Karapuda | Valencia

by Lucy Zharikova | Gregory and Alla, Moscow 12

by Ronya Galka | London

Photo (left & right) Claudia Mcdade. Left: model Brittney Crowder, make-up and hair Candice Holloway, wardrobe Samantha Paez

by Honorata Karapuda | London

by Ronya Galka | London

by Ronya Galka | London 17

by Alla Koteneva | Anna Olekhnovich, Moscow

by Maria Mokina | London

by Ronya Galka | London

by Honorata Karapuda | Paris 23

by Patrick Jendrusch | Niklas Kinzel, Berlin

by Honorata Karapuda | Rome 25

by Patrick Jendrusch | Julian James, Berlin 26

by Patrick Jendrusch | Berlin

by Patrick Jendrusch | Carlijn, Ostia, Italy

by Patrick Jendrusch | Parco Appia Antica, Rome 28

by Patrick Jendrusch | Parco Appia Antica, Rome 29

by Dino Busch | Jarrod Destiche, Soho, New York City

by Dino Busch | Jessica Murphy, New York City

by Lars Weber | Sebano Alexi, Hamburg

neukölln The ever-changing borough of Berlin In recent years, Neukölln has become one of Berlin's most dynamic and colourful areas. Its variety and contrast make this area one of the most fascinating district of the German capital. Words by Ramon Schack Photo by Ronya Galka

cross the globe, year after year millions of people migrate from the countryside to urban areas, crossing borders in the process. And it is preceisely these people that our future depends on. The BritishCanadian author Doug Saunders deals with this phenomenon in his fascinating book ‘Arrival City. In his preface Saunders notes: «The movement has touched a so far unprecedented number of people - two or three billion, perhaps a third of the world’s population - and will be touching

almost everyone’s life in one way or another.

n the bakery ‘Suess’ (the German word for ‘sweet’) in Berlin Neukölln, near Hermann Square, migration is certainly part of the majority of people here, although not in the way that is outlined by Saunders global dimension. Still, the café seems constantly crowded. The coveted seats, especially those near the front door, are as much sought after as the scarce remaining resources

of the planet. Here, it is not uncommon to witness wars breaking out when wrinkle-faced older women struggle with young backpackers or large families from the orient over tables and chairs, with the existing language barrier reducing altercations to the use of sign language.

ith the bakery being located right next to a bus stop, with people getting on and off the passing busses, there is a constant coming and going of people and the occasional

accident when people bump into those sitting in the café with coffee cups trembling like an earthquake of magnitude 5 on the Richter scale is unavoidable.

street and occasionally stop to have a little chat and exchange a few ideas. Some encounters however are of an involuntary nature, such as the little run-in of the two ladies, who recently started a fight in the bakery’s doorway.

ity air makes you free « is a well-known German folk wisdom, based on a medieval legal principle. Outside the bakery ‘Suess’ however, the air smells of exhaust fumes, beer and wood polish, perfume and concrete.

ne lady, rather obese in stature and in her midforties, was in the process of making her way through the crowd towards the exit. In her hand, she was balancing a tray packed full of cakes and scones which she was trying to juggle and manoeuvre over the heads of her fellow shoppers. She was making good progress when suddenly she bumbped into another lady: a rather Prussian looking blonde, almost military one could say, who was waiting for the bus and was obstructing the exit.

till, there is never a shortage of guests wanting to sit there, despite the fact that it rather unceremoniously overlooks a busy road. The guests, as well as the pedestrians hurrying by, embody the explosive demographic mix of the Neukölln district, which according to the district mayor exists throughout the country in similar measures but in reality Neukölln is the only place in the whole of Germany where this very unique mix exists.

eukölln is today what Brooklyn was in the US in the seventies or Brick Lane in the UK in the eighties.

he unique blend of languages spoken here is as Babylonian as the people who meet in the

ove out of the way'', snapped the lady with the tray.''Don’t just stand there like a scarecrow!'' The addressee, looking rather harshly at the other turned slowly and looked at the other dismissively and retorted: You are calling ME a scarecrow, you of all people ? If anyone here is a scarecrow then it’s you. I can almost see the

straw come out of your boots. My family has been listed in Berlin for more than three generations.''

es, Neukölln is undoubtedly an «Arrival City, therefore a city where people start their journey, as described in Saunders. For centuries this district has seen one wave of immigrants arrive afte the other. People here are Bohemian, Huguenots, and Silesian Pomeranian, Turks and Arabs , Swabia and from the travelling community to name just a few. There is a constant coming and going. Removal vans are a common sight on the streets here, thundering along the main streets and transporting the belongings of young people from all parts of the worldartists, students and enthusiasts have discovered Neukölln for themselves and so have the brokers and greedy estate agents. At the same time there is an incessant flow of people from the new EU member countries of Southeastern Europe and the Balkans. Long-established Neuköllner are displaced and squeezed out, mostly on the initiative of the job center which for many people here is still the main source of income as well as ‘Big Brother’

eukölln is evidently currently in a state of limbo due to the many social problems it faces coupled with the above mentioned new conditions. What makes it interesting is that for some, the district acts as a terminus whilst for others it merely is a stopover and for others still it is the dream destination in their life, as described by a young Czech woman, when she began to rave about the urban lifestyle of her adopted country rather naively.

aybe the Neukölln of today embodies the ideal of the « compressed diversity « a term coined by the French sociologist Henri Lefebvre in the late 1960s. With this term Lefebvre described how the perfect city would be made up of many different types of inhabitants: whether rich or poor, conservative or alternative in their nature: ''There is a constant debate and exchange of ideas and social issues are resolved within a very small geographical area.''

s an elderly gentleman put it the other day outside the ''Hitler would turn in his grave if he knew what was happening here?'' Simultaneously, at the next table two young people are discussing the contemporary Afghan literary scene whilst further to the back, an italian tourist is flirting with the turkish barmaid. he urban habitat is thus a '' democtratic principle of participation and exchange of self'' , said the German author Katja Kullman in an interview with the Neue Zuericher Zeitung. And it’s true: even if this participation manifests itself through undemocratic or racist remarks. Despite its ethnic diversity, its difficult social environment, the clash of subculture and philistines, petty bourgeois and cosmopolitans, religious zealots and decadent hedonists, the borough of Neukölln is characterized by great tolerance, or rather by the motto: ''Live and let live!''

hose who don’t like it here move away but are rapidly replaced demographically by other newcomers, mostly young and educated people who frequent the trendy cafés to scour the internet for apartment offers which they jump on quickly. After all, this is where it’s at and where you want to be, at least until the circus moves on and finds a new home…

eanwhile, the streets of Neukölln stay busy, fascinating and improvised places populated by people with big plans.

Ramon Schack has lived and worked in Neukölln for more than 3 years. He is the author of the book 'Neukölln ist Nirgendwo', published by Verlag 3.0.

special project

faces & places

When I Grow Up Photography Styling Make Up Hair Models

AL&K – ANNELAURE POTHIN & KRISZTINA GAT AMY LEONARD JOEY CHOY USING SHU UEMURA ARNO HUMER @PHOTOGRAPHIC INC NASTYA SITEN @ MODELS1 Martha Rose Redding @ Select ALICE GILBERT @ELITE Special thanks to the GADDO FAMILY 38

The idea of this shoot was based on the impact media, society and fashion have on young children nowadays and how, as a result, they grow up much sooner than previous generations. This is a tendency we have observed increasingly and which we think is rising due to all the environmental changes. Therefore, children have to take on more responsibility at a younger age and /or due to environmental impact, they tend to look a lot older at a younger age. In particular in London, we can see three distinct types of women that teenagers try to look like and have showcased the difference of a girl as her natural and very innocent self, transformed to an older version of her.

Left:

Top by Ashley Isham This page:

Leather Jacket by Napsugar, necklace by Pebble London, Earring by Pyrrah

Top by Ashley Isham 40

Leather jacket by Napsugar, silk vest by Marc Cain, necklace by Pebble London 41

one day in a small town

Top by Killian Kerner Senses

Dress by Tube Gallery, earrings and necklace by Pebble London 43

Top by Killian Kerner Senses 44

Dress by Tube Gallery, earrings and necklace by Pebble London 45

Dress (just seen) by Killian Kerner, cashmere cardigan by Johnstons of Elgin 46

Dress by Tube Gallery, pearl collar by Pebble London, earrings by Kojis at Liberty 47

Dress (just seen) by Killian Kerner, cashmere cardigan by Johnstons of Elgin 48

Dress by Tube Gallery, pearl collar by Pebble London, pearl ring by Astley Clarke at Liberty earrings by Kojis at Liberty 49

music

Livi

k c o R e h t ng on band

No Longer My Burden from Cayman Islands

The Cayman Islands are located South of Cuba and West of Jamaica in the Caribbean Sea and consists of three small islands surrounded by turquoise sea and white sands. As a visitor to the island, you’d expect to hear the sounds of the Caribbean through steel pan or reggae bands, whilst sipping your rum cocktail through a straw in a fresh coconut, but you may be surprised. Grand Cayman is the largest of the three sister islands and is approximately 22 miles long and the widest point of the island is 8 miles wide. It has a multinational society due to approximately half of the island’s

been living on the island for five years and was known for playing jazz saxophone and doing vocals/keyboards with a show band on the island. Mac heard that Natalie had started writing rock tunes and was interested in trying out a few of her songs with musician friends. It was obvious they they were onto something when Natalie’s pretty piano songs were sabotaged by Mac’s rock arranging ideas to create a new, interesting sound. They sought out fellow rockers that would be the perfect fit for the project and started writing together with friend and guitarist James Gibb (South African / Caymanian). James knew the perfect bass player, Scot Schmitt (Michigan USA) who loves and plays heavy and after a year of writing and rehearsing, his old friend and band mate, guitarist Jeremy Conyers (Louisiana, USA) joined NLMB and was the missing link bringing his heavy metal guitar lines. Living in the Caribbean, one would not expect tales of woe through song writing as the expectation is that everything is paradise, but the lyrics of NLMB suggest that things are not always so perfect, despite the idyllic landscape and island life. No Longer My Burden stemmed from the lyrical nature of the songs of letting go of the nonsense in life and moving onwards and upwards.

population being expatriates. Naturally this brings with it an eclectic mix of music and musicians from reggae, hip hop, classical, jazz, country to rock. For such a small island, there is interest and a following of rock music and as a result, there is an emerging scene with a plethora of bands writing, performing and recording original music, all in the name of rock. One of the newest bands born from this scene is NLMB (No Longer My Burden), female fronted rock band with a mix of American, British and South African musicians all living, working and scuba diving in the Cayman Islands. NLMB plays an interesting fusion of melodic vocal lines over hard, heavy rock. The band started two and half years ago when Mac (Brian) McDermit, a drummer from Wolverhampton moved back to the island. As a rock session musician and exdrummer from Adrenaline Kick, a heavy metal band from the 80s, he was keen to start playing music on the island and was introduced to Natalie Barber. Natalie, a Cornish musician, had

Left page (left to right): Jeremy, Scott, Natalie, James, Mac 51

Their songs include songs called Alone, Cloak and Dagger and I Don’t Care to name a few. Alone is about a metaphorical chrysalis and needing space to recover from life and love lost, needing time and space to heal; Cloak and Dagger is about deception and the longing for honesty and the truth; I don’t care is an ironic song about perception and the “box” that we are sentenced to and having the courage to say “no”. Ultimately, most of the songs are about letting go of the past, broken hearts, expectation of others and moving on. You can have a taste of NLMB’s music by visiting their FaceBook page “No Longer My Burden” or to find out where else in the world they will be playing next, as with connections in three different continents, who knows where you will see them in the future.

ValotTes

Swedish-English indie rock act 52

photographer Johan Borgqvist

the

Tell us a bit about the band? The Valottes were formed in 2011. Dennis moved to Sweden from London, met Micke at a party, became good friends, our drummer Konrad joined soon after, and finally we met Eirik (our bass player) at a gig in the small Swedish town of Hässleholm.

had such an amazing crowd, which always makes it great fun. What has been the influence on your music or your life for that matter? I think we’re all influenced by hard work. Everyone has jobs or is studying, but we make time for our band as music is our passion. As they say "Elvis didn't happen over night".

When did things start to kick off? It all happened quite quickly. Our first big festival was Siestafestivalen in 2013 (which line up included The Hives and Death Cab For Cutie). After the festival we toured the UK for the rest of the summer which led to our debut single Rewind (released late November 2013).

Where does most of inspiration come from? People and life. What are your thoughts on online music sharing? Do you ever give music away for free? We sometimes give away CDs at shows, and are happy to share our music as long as people appreciate it.

How does the new album differ from your older material? The last single Rewind is a little harder, rockier sounding, more up tempo but still melodic. People often say we sound a little Strokes-ish, and we take that as a compliment. We are still experimenting and learning so as we grow, our sound will as well.

What's the band’s future plans? Any upcoming releases and tours? We just released our new single Thank you, goodnight on 2nd of March, 2014, which is available on iTunes, and later in the year we will release the full album. Plus we are doing the festival circuit this year (including a tour of the UK and Germany).

Tell us a bit about the song writing and recording process. The new single Thank you, goodnight was digitally released on March, 2. Dennis writes most of the songs, however, recently the band have started writing as a group and brainstorming ideas and discussing sounds and themes together. Plus, we’ve recently started working with a new producer Antti Vuorenniemi. It’s been quite an exciting learning process as he's really helped us a lot in the studio, making the songs and album come to life.

Quick question for Dennis - what was it like for you to move from London to Sweden and how was it forming a band in a new country with a new language? Dennis: I've been living here for about four and a half years now. It’s different from London, but I’ve managed to learn Swedish (finally) but it took me ages as everyone speaks English. I love the London/Swedish combination of the band it gives it a slightly different sound/edge. Sweden is great, you just have to get used to off licenses shutting at 2pm on a Saturday and paying 7 quid for a pint

Why did you choose The Valottes as the band’s name? To be honest it happened quite organically, sounded good on paper and came up first on Google search. How do you guys feel about illegal music downloads? Good or bad? Obviously musicians and labels are losing money from illegal downloads, but on the flipside, people are still listening to music and access is always a good thing.

Why leave London to live in Sweden? I found a girl and enjoy the super cold weather.

How do you share your music digitally? We are on Bandcamp, Spotify, SoundCloud. So far what has been your favourite live performance? When we played Siestafestivalen in Hässleholm, Sweden for the first time. We

Title page (from left to right): Eirik Lundh, Konrad Grahn, Dennis Dine, Micke Löfgren Find out more about The Valottes at their website www.thevalottes.com

53 53

One of London's most energetic and fashionable DJs, gaining a following through playing at the coolest East London hotspots as well as the chicest exclusive venues in the city. Miguel's DJing has garnered him a strong reputation amongst tastemakers and partygoers alike.

Words by Samuel Afadama Photo by Gabriel Love 55

Photo by Laurence Howe

So how did it all begin? I grew up with the music. I come from a very musical family. I used to listen to hip- hop R&B and 90's pop. When I was a kid my favourite thing to do was to sit in my bedroom and pretend I was having my own radio show - I was recording myself speaking and playing my favourite songs on cassettes. My sister dated a dude who had his own show on a local radio station so I would always go there after school and sit there for hours checking the brand new releases, reading the albums' booklets and listening to live shows. When I was 17 I started playing a little bit in a local pub, every Friday from 8 till 3. It was always so packed with people dancing on the tables! It brings back fun memories. Then when I moved to London at the age of 19 I decided to focus more on modelling and fashion so I dropped djing for a bit. Although then I realised how much I missed it!

and work around it like it's a brand. Did the Djing, Production or Promoting come 1st? My first gig had an amazing response and people loved it so since then I was djing literally all the time. Word of mouth works very well! I'm friends with many people in the fashion industry because I used to be active on the party scene and going out to places like Boom Box, Caligula, Trailer Trash and Circus. I made many awesome friendships back then as I'm a ''Shit, they know very sociable person, it really helped me to get into djing at me in Japan! That's London Fashion Week's after crazy!'' parties and fashion events. Who's throwing the best parties at the moment? My singer/rapper/producer friend Rowdy Superstar and Alex Tettey from Vice Magazine are throwing their monthly SOAP at Birthdays in Dalston where I'm a resident dj. SHOREBITCH is always really well attended I'm so pleased to be their resident. Caligula is back on as a limited editing, I've hosted for them a few weeks ago and I absolutely loved it! Last but not least is obviously my official monthly club night "TRUTH or Dare" at XOYO in Shoreditch - its insanely good!

What was the first event you ever played at/put on? In July 2010. My friend was doing a night called "Red Lights" in a strip club in Shoreditch. The first song I ever played was "Lapdance" by N.E.R.D! The name Miguel Dare! Where did it come from? My real name is a bit boring and hard to pronounce so I thought I'm gonna come up with a nick name- Miguel Dare

Photo by Darren Orbell

Apart from London, which other countries have you played/ put parties on? Last summer I went to dj in Tokyo, Japan. They flew me over there for a gig at the party called "Fancy Him" it was just incredible! I was lost for words! It meant so much to me as when they invited me I thought to myself shit they know me in Japan that's crazy! Then I went and more than 400 excited cool club kids came out to see me perform and I was like WOW!

But I would choose Destiny's child " Say my name". When all the partying is over how do you like to chill out? I meditate. I love watching movies so I go to the cinema as much as I can. I also enjoy swimming and ice skating! Theme parks are my favourite ever though! So how is the club scene in your eyes at the moment? It's getting better. Since parties like BoomBox and Trailer Trash stopped running there was a vacuum of fun parties but it looks like it is getting better of late. I'm happy I can play my favourite 90's R&B music and hip-hop and new millennium bangers at parties tho. People love it so It's all ''I would choose Destiny's good! child "Say my name" What's your real name if you use an alias and where are you from? How dare you!? It's a lil secret! Hah!

What's the best event you've played at? My mums birthday bash! Ha! Just joking I think I'd say ''Fancy Him'' in Japan! It reminded me of BoomBox! Loved their energy! It was pure fun and I used a mic for the first time! What was your first record you bought? Janet Jackson "Janet". Out of all the tunes you have, which one never fails? Missy Elliott "Get ur Freak on" - the beat still sounds so fresh each time I play it! What's your favorite tune of all time? Remember that my star sign is libra so Im super mega indecisive!

How big is your vinyl collection? I only started collecting vinyls recently. I found

Aaliyah and Kelis vinyls in a record shop In Notting Hill! It made my day! I collect singles tho! Got plenty of them!

We're currently working on "Beatification of an avant grade silhouette" project. What advice would you give to up and coming DJ's/ ''Have fun but work Promoters? hard'' Have fun but work hard! Be sociable and out there! Also remember to always have a strong commitment to yourself, live your truth and believe in yourself! Paulo Coelho once said that the secret of life, though, is to fall seven times and get up eight times. it's super important to stay focused and never give up on your dreams!

What do you think of CD J's? I only play from CD dj's at the moment! I turn up in the club with my CDs collection and play. I know my stuff so well so I never have any descriptions next to my CDs neither, I just know the track numbers by heart. Funniest thing that ever happened at an event? At my first gig ever which was in a strip club I jumped into the pool and started dancing and I also smoked a cigarette which made all the alarms to go off! Fun times!

When you play is it a pre- planned set? Nothing is ever pre planed! I always bring out a bit of a show when I dj wearing some awesome outfits, head pieces, eye make up, I dance all over the dj booth and interact with the crowd a lot!

Other DJs you rate? Erol Sabadosh, Rowdy_SS , Siobhan Bell , Darq e Freaker, Elles, Sebastian Bartz , Alexis Knox, Chris Cuff, Fifi <3 , Kris Di Angelis, El Moreno, Mem and oh so many more! Told you I'm super indecisive!

How was the year 2013 for you? 2013 was awesome! I djed in some amazing venues at some wicked parties. Went to dj in Tokyo, Japan. I met amazing, inspiring people, friends out there and also here in London. My official club night Truth or Dare at XOYO is smashing it every month. I've worked so hard and learnt so much in the past year. I've grown up not only as a dj but as a person. Life's such an amazing roller coaster- Don't wanna stop! Also I think that the universe is interested in happy people and happy people always appreciate the universe!

What are your feelings on the MC's? Yasssir ! They are coming back, big time! My girl Mercedes is amazing! She's the best female MC on the scene at the moment! She has performed at my club night live and often bounces with my in my booth at my gigs! So Fun! Lately I went to see my friend Rowdy Superstar ''the universe is interested performing live in in happy people and happy Shoreditch and it people always appreciate was off the chain. the universe!'' I've never before experienced anything like this! It was electrifying! He's incredibly talented! He's like the master of all kinds! What do you do outside of the dance music? I've art directed a music video for an international artist Tatiana Okupnik. I'm working on a few new art direction projects with my super multitalented friend Mr.Wize.

tips

How to Build a Mini Catapult from Office Supplies

plastic spoon binder clip

tape

rubber band craft sticks

Warning: do not use this device in order to harm your colleagues. Range: 10-20 feet

CORE {life story}

greed That's a real story of a bank fraud. Everything you wanted to know about the way the banking works, your three digit numbers, your online account and billing address. And how your money can be stolen.

Words by X Illustration by Maria Mokina 60

Greed? Greed! How easy it is to accept cards. How easy to use them. How easy to steal them. First of all, who is it that benefits from using cards? You, the consumer. It’s so easy! No one will ever mug you and take your cash in a dark alleyway. Rent a car, a room in a hotel; take a loan, if needed. Yeah, until the first case of fraud. Then come phone calls, arguments, reissuing, $50 fine to teach your stupid gob a lesson, and the feeling that you’ve been had for free, like a smile in fucking McDonalds. Them, the business. Accept orders over the phone. No cash to transport. No need to sew up salesmen’s pockets.

Take commission for card payments. Get chargeback for half the monthly income. Me, the carder. Getting access to you entire credit or maybe even all your savings for a dollar. The only people who got pure profit from the way things are right now, are the banks and VMC. Accept cards, but it’s your responsibility. Pay with cards, but it’s your responsibility. The bank spends less, raise volumes, receive commission percentages etc. Why CVC was introduced: Many, many years ago card data was all over the place. On the slips from a trashcan, on a check that wasn’t handed out to the previous customer, on the statement sticking out from

someone’s mailbox. People ordered goods from catalogues. You could put in someone else’s data and your address and get an item, but who would risk their freedom in the countries where you can order things from catalogues? Besides, it was really hard to repeat massively. Can you imagine a person filling in stacks of order forms so they can steal some sneakers? I can’t. But then the Internet came along. A system with no limits. The most important part was that you need the same info to pay online as you did offline. What was risky for US residents was perfectly fine for Russians or Ukrainians. FAQs on how to use

this data to your benefit popped up on Usenet. And so it together, and in them were people who could code a few went. lines in C++. I remember when bases of several dozens of A massive amount of people started breaking the law. online casinos leaked using SQL Unicode injection. Also, VMC didn’t react for the longest time. What for? Your one world-famous processing company shared all their contract clearly states that you’re using data with three lads from Ukraine for half the card at your own risk. a year. Wankers, eh? Full stop. Income grows. Basically, not To your There was even an adverse effect to it: a single fuck is being given about the believing this measure to be effective, disappointment and end user’s problems. But at some point many acquirers stopped doing real my great delight retailers must have started howling checks: ‘Hello, got the three digits? Of the threat of data too loudly. VMC had to react, and the course, Mr. Jones, where should we ship leak wasn’t taken rest probably joined in. Some fucktard seriously at the time. your diamond for 5k? Thanks, Mr. Jones, decided to separate order process into please call again’. Not for long, of course. two separate procedures: online and Half of those who did demand the code offline. The offline process stayed the same, but the didn’t actually check it despite the field being on the online process got a new parameter to consider — a forms. Screw them. checksum that was physically present at the back of the Besides that, the option of checking the card’s address card, but it didn’t show up on slips or checks. appeared. A really useful novelty — until then I could Introducing it was supposed to confirm the physical specify any address as the billing address and shipping ownership of the card by the person making the order. address, and the merchant has no way of checking it. Did this stop fraud? No. Did it slow it down? Partially. Here’s a clarification: the address is only checked on its It stopped the influx of new fraudsters. Simply put, an numbers. This is a backwards compatibility issue. Most average Joe couldn’t just hop in and reap the benefits. likely most acquirers’ software would have to be changed It didn’t slow down existing fraudsters. That’s why: drastically otherwise. Sadly, it’s only an option. The introduction of the code wasn’t instant. CVC appeared as an extra option in the acquirer’s system. Online Banking The code couldn’t just physically manifest on a manager’s Do you have online banking? Did you read the user whim, it required reissuing all cards. Reissuing wasn’t agreement when registering in the system? How forced. Total introduction dragged on for years. different is it to the content of promo leaflets? The Fraudster guys kept working. Common people still need difference is between the money in your pocket and a explanations about the three digits on the backside of stranger’s pocket. In the past, the clients were shown a their card. safe in the bank’s basement. How else? Security comes People who were seriously into fraud required a certain first. That’s what you paid for. And now? Now there’s volume of data. More than the biggest trash container nothing to show. of the biggest supermarket of the biggest city after the I think a bank’s data centre could only impress a specialist; biggest sale could provide. Where did they get said in fact, though, it is the actual bank. The office next volumes? From the Web, of course. From all those door, the familiar cashier, the personal safe where you databases that you created yourself by diligently typing in keep your title deed — none of those are the bank. A your card details so you could buy a gift for your granny in modern bank is a data centre. Your money is entries in its Atlanta or watch porn. database. Why did it get that way? The only To your disappointment and my great delight the threat reason is that the bank benefits from it. It’s of data leak wasn’t taken seriously at the time. The mouse just so simple and so profitable to close was riding the elephant. There were teams being put down 100 branches and install a server.

You won’t think I am against modern technology. I am your card account with your current account? I suspect against banks giving up on what people dome to them for — that is the whole list. But from the bank's point of view security — out of greed. Pure greed, nothing else. that wasn't enough. If before you were offered, or in some Most banks offer you to agree that your login and password cases forced, to use a service, now it's a lot simpler. A prove your identity as the owner of the account. The banks manager stuck a finger up his ass, spun it around there, don’t care that this data is easy to obtain, and, furthermore, reaching for the spinal column (seeing as an idea like that that most ways of stealing it implies such use of it that it will can't have come from their actual brain), and scooped out be impossible for you to prove that the changes to your a set of services that you simply have to use because they account weren’t made by you. Some might say “don’t use it give him 10% growth per quarter and a bigger bonus than if you have doubts'’. A solid argument, that was. Up until the that of his colleague in the next cubicle. point when banks started charging for paper statements, Here are some of those brilliant ideas: paying your bills offline etc. Now it’s the only option. But they have no basis for keeping your security on the level of Overnight Billpay your email account or Facebook security. In this case, I am How do you use this? Decide to urgently return a debt talking about huge retail banks. Trust me when I say that my to a distant relative in the middle of the night? Rush to reprimands aren't directed at offshore banks, not even the pay your plumber who lives down the street and send a smaller ones. check, paying extra $50 for sending it with a courier from Their main selling point has always been security. That's a bank located in the other state? It's okay though; I know what to do with this. I will send your check to a mule who why every change to the account should be confirmed by lives in the same state as the bank right before your local a special key, generated on a separate device. baked pumpkin festival and cash it for 5% while you're Ownership of such device should be the sole way of digging pumpkin seeds out of your butt. International wire determining the owner, not the password. transfer. It's a dubious improvement in the life of a guy So why isn't everyone introducing such devices? Some from Iowa. are. Mostly those banks that are still happy to show you their safe, even if it's now a digital one. Also, smaller banks Ever he's reached the Canadian border a couple of times that had to return stolen money to its rightful owner, and in his life, I have no idea how he could make use of this this compensation was a serious blow to service. I, on the other hand, can send their income. The rest are in no hurry. the transfer to a bookmaker in the They are worried that the procedure will Most ways of UK and lose the bet over tomorrow's be too difficult for you; worried that you'll weather to myself. stealing it implies leave for another bank that doesn't make such use of it that it things difficult. Internal transfer will be impossible for Even if you lose money, a big bank is Certainly more handy. But why is it that you to prove that willing to cover your losses. But who is you don't have to confirm the recipient's the changes to your willing to soothe your wrecked nerves? account? Who is the recipient usually? accountweren’t Unquestionably, there is a lot less trouble In 90% of the cases it's a relative. Do you made by you. with unauthorized access to accounts have that many? I doubt that you have than there was before. You'll get an SMS more of them than I have mules. Mules every time anything at all changes in your online bank who are happy to believe the tale about restoring credit account, but in the early noughties very few banks had history and to open an account in the required bank and send me the money anywhere via WU within three hours. that option. The banks rushed the introduction. Try to remember which services provided by online banking How many times a day do you check your account? And you use. Billpay? Account to account transfer? Paying for how many time zones are there in the US?

For some reason online stores aren't willing to ship to different addresses. Have you guessed why that is yet? Say you need a new Apple MacBook ASAP. Will you log in and change? Well, so will I. I already have one, but it can't hurt to have two. Check imaging. After a law was introduced, banks stopped exchanging paper checks. That is logically sound. Great way to save. One thing remains a mystery though: along with those changes came the option to view all those checks online. If I couldn't see the requisites of your account before, now it was simple — I could find them on the cheques that your bank so diligently scanned in for you. Furthermore, say you sent a cheque to pay for your health insurance. What did you specify as the account? Your SSN? And for your car insurance — your driver's license number? Do you see? PIN change. Great idea. Paid at an Indian café with your PIN? Put your card into a flaky ATM? You can always change the PIN online. Perfectly safe, right? The PIN and your card number aren't enough to withdraw cash at an ATM. Well, not quite. Let's consider how the system behind ATMs works. So, there's the bank that issued the card. The magnetic strip holds important data, such as the card number and the checksum, so called CVC, that cannot be figured out based on other information about the card. The PIN should be known just to the owner and the bank. Theoretically, for a successful withdrawal you need a PIN and correct magnetic strip data. Who checks this data? Not the ATM. The ATM sends the request to the bank. The PIN thing we've already discussed — it can be changed on the website. But the magnetic strip is a whole different story; it's often simply not checked. What is the reason for it? Probably just crappy software.

can be used to one's own advantage. If you limit the sum of a transaction to some manageable number, you can handle the losses, since you can't register one card with multiple accounts. And if there are a sufficient number of investors with deep pockets, then eventually, seeing as the number of cards is finite, fraud levels will fall as the volume of cards registered in the system grows. Common people will be forced to register so that no one does anything in their name, and even more so after someone does. That's why the payment system didn't check the owner's real name for the longest time. That's why at first it would freeze an account at the first sign of trouble. PP will never say how much money from the frozen accounts was returned to its rightful owners. Someone's losses are another man's operational income. Who's got the biggest database of cards after VMC? Of course the payment system does! What else? Proxies — or IPs, to be precise! They are finite as well. Yes, there are a lot of them, since the country that invented the Internet holds about 75% of all the address space. It’s the Chinese who march in columns not only to the toilets, but also online — I am referring to NAT. It’s Bhutan where the only white IP address belongs to the king. But if your proxy is fake, there’s no way you can add money to the payment system. The greatest payment system ever was built at the intersection of those two sets. At first, everything was peachy. Everyone rushed in looking to score. An American payment system, now that’s no joke! Stealing online — money coming out of your optical drive. After a while the hype died down though. Cards don’t get accepted, money won’t withdraw, and they keep calling you. Newbies fell off the wagon. More advanced players moved on to better things. Still, a considerable amount of money was moved from the investors’ pockets to carders’ pockets. Although to be fair they were willing to share from the start. Those who managed to score were mostly grateful to a popular American ISP for holes in their firmware that opened up SOCKS on the standard port; the most popular operating system for having NetBIOS on by default for all classes of networks; and the payment system itself. Why can’t I gamble with my own cash in an online casino? You can, of course, but if anything happens, we’ve got

How the world famous payment system came to be an egg headed youngster My compatriot, by the way — woke up once in the late afternoon after a night of fraud and, having got into the bath, leaped out of it like Archimedes, yelling "eureka!" His idea was as follows: the amount of cards online is finite, and still small to build a market of electronic payments — even if just local to America — in one system. What's needed for it? Money! A considerable amount, because fraud exists and cannot be eliminated, but it

nothing to do with it. numbered account lets you receive a transfer in You are, essentially, the 9 SSN digits. When you got any name. A card that’s accepted worldwide. No offered the convenience of filing for a credit card online checks of the legality of the source of your money by simply filling in a form on a website, I also got the and no guarantee of safety. An account can always opportunity to fill it in for you. Yes, you don’t give away be arrested pending investigation and no one will your data, but the Web forgets nothing. complain because the money is most In your online banking account, in your likely dirty. I suspect that there are insurance order form, in a letter from People who are entire departments in those banks your employer I’ll look for your data that trace the movement of money looking for profit and I’ll find it. How often do you change between accounts with a single aim aren’t concerned your SSN? How about your driver’s — to freeze an account at a perfect withsecurity. license and your account number and time. Is it ethical to steal from a thief? They simply lack everything else? Trust me, if I decided The bankers knew who they were theknowledge. to turn a particular American citizen’s accepting into the happy European life into a waking nightmare, I’d do it family, and if they did, why did they with no effort whatsoever. However, I am motivated by accept us? profit, and that’s what I’ll do: using my access to your Because they are the same. How do these small online banking, I’ll get the missing information — at least launderettes differ from the acclaimed? your SSN to start with. Swiss ones? Just by the volumes. Using ancestors, I’ll get your MMN. With the help of a Do you remember the time when the Internet began couple of other wily online services I’ll get your DOB with Yahoo!? It was small, primarily text-based. No and DRVL. I already have the information about your spam, no online banking, no, god forbid, captcha. A accounts and credit cards. If you have 5-digit sums on space for specialists and enthusiasts. But as soon as your accounts, I’ll attempt to withdraw them. I’ll start they got a whiff of money, a wave of people came in with opening a new account in your name. When I who considered themselves real smart asses, and who register on the bank’s website, I’ll specify the address didn’t understand what the Net was all about. Yearning of a document shipment service. Since I am opening for easy money. Those people were the culprits no interest checking, it won’t require me to pay for of first cyber crimes. People who are looking anything. When I get the card that’s tied to the new for profit aren’t concerned with security. They account, I’ll order a money transfer to it when the simply lack the knowledge. moment is right. If the amount is high, I’ll first register Understand this, the main property of the Web a company in your name and then open a corporate is anonymity. The main property of reality account. There are several options here, actually. As is personality. You can’t combine those two the sole owner of a company, your credit rating is concepts through the combination of login also your company’s credit history, so I can request a and password. Relying on the security of this credit. Or the company may apply for international wire data is simply naïve. Only that allows the criminals to transfer. pass themselves for someone else. Yes, with the appearance of social networks anonymity Banks from Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia started to disappear, but we’re in transition still. “Any starting capital has illegal roots.” I read this Not anonymous anymore, but still not protected by somewhere once, and I don’t agree with it. But it’s true publicity from identity theft. in relation to banks. I saw it with my own eyes. Lithuania — Latvia — Estonia. Several large banks, at least one per country. 70% of all illegally acquired income has been transferred via those banks. A To read more visit: medium.com/spam-scam-skim

on agenda

CHILDREN AS WEAPONS separation of a father and daughter Words by Giselle Fox

There was once a presumption that children should always stay with their mother following a divorce. most European countries no longer honor that presumption, however. Despite this change, mothers are still more likely to get custody when parents divorce. The most of laws vary as to what courts must consider in determining custody arrangements, but the general standard used today is that the custody award must be in the â&#x20AC;&#x153;best interests of the child." And, the factors court consider in discerning where those best interests lie are more likely to favor mothers, as most marriages are structured.

here are a lot of fathers out there but I can only speak for myself. I am a loving, caring father and I adore every little part of them. In my experience, a lot of mothers are using the law to scrutinize the relationship between a father and child. Other fathers may identify with this and come to a similar realization, that a lot of single fathers don't understand the law. Some women don't, but the majority of women out there are using their children as a weapon. There is no longer the prevailing ethos of leaving the child out of the situation.

spend my time and money to build them as stable a foundation as possible. As fathers, we all know the realities of life in this day and age. There has in the past been some high profile coverage of fathersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rights and the major issues I am highlighting now: access to my children, access to their school reports, medical records. To be able to call my children and my children call me whenever they want. For the past six months, relations with my childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother have turned sour. I believe my recent marriage to another woman triggered something; and since, she has increasingly denied access to my children and this

I love my children dearly. My maxim is that I need to be there to guide my children. I don't know who my daughters will be in the future. All I know is that I will

I worry that my children resent me, thinking that I have dumped them in a shifty life whilst I am leading a good life.ggg

child away from them. To me this is stupid; you are giving him back his freedom and therefore not holding him responsible for anything. By cutting him off from that responsibility, you end up taking on all the work yourself. If you want to be clever, you should share the responsibility; and your children are ultimately the ones who get hurt.

really shouldn't be the case. A lot of women need to understand they should stop using their children as a weapon against the father. Why do I think the mother of my children is behaving like this since I got married? Having children should not stop any individual from pursuing their career and achieving goals. It does not stop you living your life or going out.

No matter what happened in a relationship, you should never get the children involved. You made those children when you actually loved each other a lot. Alienating children from their fathers harms them in many mental and social ways. They may develop issues with trusting men in the future, the knock-on effect resulting in a wider societal problem.

When the mother of your children sees that you are succeeding and she is not, resentment builds. She is not really achieving anything in her life and is living on benefits. In the beginning, single mothers think they can secure a council flat and regular income from benefits. They don't realize that the maximum they will ever earn is that benefit money. But if you get a job, you will earn more money and improve your life. But what mothers on benefits don't understand is that whether they spend one hour or more with those children, your benefit money is the same. They have resisted going to work and don't want to mix with the public and end up socializing with friends of similar characteristics and mentality. I think a lot of women who have children with men, think the worst thing they can do to a man is take the

When my daughters come to my house, which is their home, they see that I am always striving for success. The house is clean, the fridge is full of food and we sit down to eat like a family. When they go back home to their mother, they see the opposite. I worry that my children resent me, thinking that I have dumped them in a shifty life whilst I am leading a good life. Having children is a responsibility whether you want it or not. I owned up to my responsibility by providing for them financially and mentally and I am always available to them no matter what.

single mothers misbehave on benefits because they do nothing to earn their living. They are not using this time to find a job, study or improve their life and instead they spend that time going to solicitors.

spoken to her and not seen my children for 8 months. It will be my little daughter’s birthday in May. She is a duplicate of me and I adore her, but I adore both my daughters who are nine and twelve now. My love and passion for them is still the same.

When single mothers try to block access to the children and cannot handle the responsibility; the children then feel neglected. For the past three months I have been walking around the house muttering to myself: “What are you doing you women out there?” Collecting benefit money and essentially acting like a babysitter, not a mother. A real woman looking after children at home would hustle to create something more, as well as collecting benefit money. If you want to be a full-time mother, pay attention to the children and be a good role model to them. Mothers on benefit should think if I am not going to work, I should concentrate on my child. When they come back from school, sit down and do the homework with your child. Push and guide them, educate them to achieve. In ten years time when these children are going to be 16 and 17, they will want to go out in to the world. What have you shown them? That is the issue I have now with my daughters’ mother.

At the moment I am stuck in a situation. Do I take my daughters’ savings and pay a solicitor to fight their mother for access. She will then get what she wants, to strip me financially. I decided to write her a letter saying that I would take her to court. But this is at the cost of my children’s life savings that I am putting aside. The money is for when they are older, if they want to buy property or to help them pursue their desired direction in life. My ex-partner has since taken my children far away to South England. I have driven for seven hours to see my daughters there and rented an apartment for a week. I wanted to spend time with them because I want my daughters to understand that wherever their mother takes them, I will always come there to see them and they can always come to see me too. The only thing preventing them is their mother. She has become so dramatic, built a lot of false pictures in my children’s heads and blocked my number. The last time I spoke to my daughters was when the little one called me from her room at 2am. Her mother screamed at her and put the phone down, that's the last time I heard my little girl’s voice.

I understand if a woman says that other men are not supportive or don’t show interest in their children. If that is the case, tell the children you are not stopping them from seeing their father and tell him he has access anytime he wants. If he pays child maintenance and how much of a relationship he wants with his children is down to the man. How much communication, how much understanding and how much love you want with the children is all down to you. Single mothers should not be trying to build a bridge between a child and their father. Are single mothers using children as a weapon because they are still in love? That's a possibility. There was love in my previous relationship and the children were made with love. This is what I told my ex-partner. I have not

This is all very painful and angers me greatly just thinking about it. But I cannot be dramatic, I have to stay composed and look to the future. I must give her time to come round. I think a lot of single mothers misbehave

She does not want me to discuss discipline and values with my daughters or engage them in any emotional conversation.gg

I offered to put my daughters in an after-school club so that my ex-partner can have time to go to work or free time to study. Parents need to look at what they are teaching their children; whether they are single parents or not. A lot of parents need to understand that it’s not just schools that teach your children; you teach them. Some of the readers may disagree with me. I will still apply the same principles and passion for learning new things and use it to improve my daughters’ lives.

on benefits because they do nothing to earn their living. They are not using this time to find a job, study or improve their life and instead they spend that time going to solicitors. My ex-partner wants me to be a “weekend dad”, take my daughters out and drop them back. To not ask my daughters how they are doing in school, discuss homework and future prospects etc. She does not want me to discuss discipline and values with my daughters or engage them in any emotional conversation. A normal father or mother would do all this with their children. I told her I don't want my daughters to think I just come once in a while, spend money on them and go home.

I believe single mothers think they get more money from the benefit system by being alone without the father of their child living with them. They don't want to work because they will lose the benefit money but forget that having a job will create a better role model for their children. If I could speak to my children’s mother, I would say life is moving by so quickly but don't think it's too late. There is still a chance for you to make your daughters proud. Also know that the government is decreasing benefit, the money is getting capped and it is time to make a change.

I think there is an underlying issue of culture. I came from an African background and she is English. The trouble I have is that she followed what her mum taught her. My ex-partner and I were in school together and at age fifteen she got pregnant with my first daughter. I was sixteen too when our first daughter was born. Her mother has never worked and claimed benefits all her life until her benefit was stopped. I am trying to break this cycle.

My problem now is whether I should fight for full custody of my daughters and take them away from this detrimental lifestyle. Law that single fathers don’t understand protects single mothers. It is an overwhelmingly complex and expensive course of action to pursue.

All her life, my ex-partner saw her mother going to the pub from 2pm till 2am and then sleep all day. How do children cope whilst their mother is drunk all day with a different man in her bed every night? I am trying to make my children’s mother see this curse. My daughters dress themselves to go to school; she is doing the same things her mother did, getting drunk every night etc. I’m afraid this is what will happen to my daughters and I don't want them to turn out like her and her mother.

fashion

John Mullan scissorhands

Conversation with John Mullan, international session stylist and founder of Stone Hair is recognised as the best salon in Kingston Upon Thames. He regularly works for London, Paris, Milan and New York Fashion weeks and has been a hair stylist on various music videos, fashion shows, look books and advertising campaigns such as Versace 1969, Topman Generation Magazine and NU Textiles. He has worked with Lily Cole, VV Brown, Carmen Chaplin, Zebra Katz, The Courteeners, Toby Stephens, Jade Thompson and many others.

Words by Samuel Afadama Photo by Ronya Galka

What do you do for work? In my work I am lucky enough to travel the world and make women look beautiful whilst meeting exciting new people for different projects. I am a session stylist and owner of a successful salon based in Kingston upon Thames. When did you first realise you wanted to be a stylist and when did you start? Twenty seven years ago I realised there was more to life than sniffing glue and my mother introduced me to a hair salon in order to keep me out of trouble in Belfast. I was surrounded by creative people who enjoyed what they did and realised I wanted to be a part of that. Why did you pursue hairdressing? What are your career highlights? I have been very lucky to have some amazing opportunities and work with fantastic people.

One of my career highlights is opening my first salon at the age of 21, my father helped me do all the shop fitting. For the first time I think he believed in my vision. At school I wasn’t very academic although I enjoyed it. When I was there I did well in creative subjects such as woodcutting and art and I found in hair dressing I was able to get an artistic outlet which is something I missed from school. Another highlight is doing the La Perla show in New York, that is something I will never forget. What is your hairdressing style? I asked a friend to help me with this question and his words were “Original, weird and wonderful”. What scissors do you use for creating your cuts? My scissors are 7 and a half inch yamato.

What is the most amazing look you have ever created and what is your favourite hairstyle? The most amazing look I have ever created? I am constantly striving for perfection and always learning new techniques and constantly evolving so I wouldn’t say I have one favourite piece of work as I am always striving to do better. Quite often I play with the hair and leave it for a while and come back to it, I recently shot a front cover for L’Officiel with Ana Barros in Istanbul, the hair was very simple yet beautiful. Sometimes it can be harder to create the most simple things. I take a lot of inspiration from the past, I don’t have a favourite hair style as it depends on the suitability and the individual. What ‘Colouring’ brand do you highly recommend and do you use in your salon? What benefits does it have? Carly our top colourist at Stone

' Twenty seven years ago I realised there was more to life than sniffing glue

uses and recommends L'Oreal – Inoa, richesse and diarichesse. The benefits of L'Oreal are that it does not include any ammonia (ammonia which can cause breakage and be harmful to the hair). L'Oreal colour generally leaves the hair nourished with a sublime shine. Talking about hair-cuts: Past winter we saw many celebrities showing amazing ‘bob’ in the street, what is going to be the most fashionable cut for men and women in 2014? Hair trends for women will be a longer version of the bob with a strong parting, tonal colours and a natural blow dry. Effortlessly chic is the way forward for women’s hair in 2014. Mens hair will continue to remain on trend with classic styles as we are seeing a lot more 1920s barbering techniques come into play. We are also seeing a lot more facial hair in 2014 and so grooming that becomes a part of it. Are these haircuts suitable for any age? What kind of image will it create? Will it make us look very serious or carefree? How would you describe it? The longer version of the bob when cut correctly can either be worn for a easy going laid back look or styled more structurally with clean sleek lines. All ages will be able to wear this look – young or old looks great on everyone. The mens look will be styled using appropriate products for the image they are

creating that day. What would you recommend for hair grooming at home without spending too much time on it? Personally I love the botanical brand phyto. It is a product we have stocked in Stone hair since we first opened. The defrisant balm is brilliant for minimising blow dry time and leaving the hair more manageable for styling whilst the volume active spray is great to give your hair that extra boost and glamour. What kind of hair cuts will favour rounded faces, square jaws and oval faces? Round face – for clients with a rounded face long hair works best as it lengthens the face. Any layers around the face look better kept longer as well so not to emphasise the face shape even more. A side

parting can help add more balance to the style. Square jaw – If you have a square jaw I suggest you go for cuts that soften the angular facial structure for example having layers around the face starting at the jaw line heightens the face so it looks longer and less severe. Oval face – If you have an oval face shape you are a very lucky girl. You can wear quite extreme cuts like the pixie or a straight shoulder cut. If you want to go for layers just make sure they start from the chin downwards. How do your clients communicate the style they want? Who is your ideal client? I always do in-depth consultations, that way the client and I can both go over ideas and address their needs and wants. Sometimes visuals

from magazines and online can help as the hair isn’t as formally styled as from hair magazines. A client that likes to experiment and who is open to change and new ideas is my favourite type to have in. I believe its all about developing trust and that will happen over time, we all like nice people. As a customer what should I do if I feel my stylist is not listening? If you do not feel comfortable with your stylist stop the conversation before you go for the cut as if its not right it can take a very long time to get the hair you desired. A proper consultation can take up to half an hour if the client is unsure of what they want and it is very important that the client and stylist are on the same page. If you feel they aren’t listening simply tell them, let them know that what they are talking

about is not what you hand in mind. At the end of the day the stylist wants the client to leave the salon happy knowing they did a good job and so communication is very important. As a client don’t be afraid to say no but do listen to the advice your stylist gives you. How do you advise your clients against the colours that may not work on them, but their heart is set on it? Carly our creative colourist at Stone explains the pro’s and con’s to her clients whilst doing the indepth consultation. She will get colour swatches to show them the outcome colours and offer alternatives and suggestions if she feels the clients colour choice will have a bad impact. Ultimately if a client wants a colour and it isn’t going to work or look good it is best they are prewarned as if the idea in their head is unattainable its best to look at the options of what is achievable and ensure the client is happy with the end result. At the end of the day we wont do anything we don’t feel comfortable with.

Whats your product of the moment to use on gents and why? Phyto offer a matt texturizing paste which thickens the hair, is perfect for styling and creating versatile looks. What hair colour will be the most fashionable for Spring/ Summer 2014 for men and women, or will blondes, brunettes and red-heads live happily together? Blues and Pinks are out! Blonde is going to be big in 2014, women are going lighter and the blondes will be making a statement. Highlights are back in and the dip dye is fading out. Mens hair will be enhanced with natural colours and flashes. Which kind of complexion will this colour suit and which skin colour must avoid them? Going lighter is tailor made by your colourist so if done well it can suit all complexions, your colouring will determine how light you can go but warming tones will suit all and your colourist will be able to advise you.

' If you have

an oval face shape you are a very lucky girl

all that glitters Photography Styling and creative direction Makeup Hair by Model

Amberly Valentine Minna Attala Roseanna Velin Masanori Yahiro Bradley Reed @amsk

title page: Tiara stylist's own, Jewelled choker by Zara, jewelled cape by Freedom at Topshop, tourmaline ring by Grains of Gold, encrusted skull stylist's own This page: Feather cape by Biba, jewel necklace by Mawi, black necklace styist's own, gunmetal chail by H&M

Jewel incrusted mask by Fumbalins

Brass and cord necklaceby Freedom at Topshop, bellydancer's belt styist's own, metal and gemstone neckpiece by Freedom at Topshop, body harness stylist's own

Perspex ring by Finchitta Finch, pear ncklace (worn on hand, by Pyrrha, pearl choker stylist's own, champagne pearl necklace with medallion by Pyrrha,crown necklace with parl by Mirabelle, earring stylist's own

· the ·

Pattern of

Modernity Photography Styling Grooming Models Photographer’s assistant Stylist’s Assistant

Jacob Hodgkinson Minna Attala Oscar Alexander Lundberg Curt @Nevs, Ralph @Models 1 Sarah De Burgh Abdel Saoudi

Curt wears:

Coat by Paul Costelloe; Trousers by Gabicci; Shirt by Ben Sherman; Shoes by Diego Vanassibara 83

Curt wears:

Coat by Paul Costelloe; Suit by Hackett; Shirt by Gabicci; Tie by Paul Costelloe

Ralph wears:

Suit by Sand; Suit by Hackett; Shirt and tie by Duchamp; Glasses by Lindberg x Transitions 85

Ralph wears:

Suit and sweater by Ben Sherman

Curt wears:

Suit by Sand; Shirt by Ben Sherman; Belt by Red Wing; Glasses by Lindberg x Transitions 87

Curt wears:

Jacket by Claude John; Trousers by Gabicci; Shirt by Ben Sherman Ralph wears:

Suit by Hackett; Shirt by Sand; Tie by Paul Costelloe; Scarf by Daks; Bag by Oppermann

Curt wears:

Jacket by Claude John; Shirt by Ben Sherman

Ralph wears:

Suit by Richard Anderson; Shirt and tie by Duchamp; Glasses by Triwa

Ralph wears:

Jacket by Sand; Sweater by Antony Morato; Trousers by Gabicci

disrobed Photography Darren Black Styling Minna Attala Grooming John Christopher using Bumble & Bumble and Clinique Model Stephen James @Supa Model Management Styling Assistant Sophie Dampier-Jeans Photography Styling Grooming Models Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assistans

Darren Black Minna Attala John Christopher using Bumble & Bumble and Clinique Stephen James @Supa Model Management Sophie Dampier-Jeans

Bag by MI Pak; Watch by Storm 93

Glasses by Transitions x Jean Lafont; Scarf by Paul Costelloe 94

Shoes by Duggers; Socks by H&M

This page: Watch by Triwa Left: Top left: Vintage hat stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own; Glasses by Triwa Top right: Shoes by Diego Vanassibara Bottom left: Bowler hat by Lock & Co; Glasses by Transitions x IC! Berlin; Watch by Triwa; Socks by Uniqlo; Shoes by Diego Vanaissibara Bottom right: Headphones by Marshall 97

Scarf by Harry Stedman; Boots by Red Wing Shoes

Chauffeur hat by Lock & Co; Bag by Oppermann; Watch by Storm; Boots by Diego Vanassibara

Photography Styling Grooming Retouching Model Photographer’s assistant Stylist’s Assistant

Charl Marais Minna Attala Bobana Parojcic Jonathan Kope @Kope/Figgens Ashton @AMCK Charlotte Brewer Sophie Dampier-Jeans and Abdel Saoudi

Back:

Sweater by SamsĂ¸e & SamsĂ¸e; T-Shirt by Champion; Shorts by Humor; Trainers by Adidas; Belt from the National Theatre Costume Archive Front:

Sweater by Adidas; Trousers by Scotch & Soda; Trainers by Pointer; Jewellery from National Theatre Costume Archive Left:

Headdress and necklaces from the National Theatre Costume Archive 101

Jackets by Stone Island; Headphones by Urbanears

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Sweater by Stone Island; Poncho by Issey Miyake Pleats Please; Skirt from the National Theatre Costume Archive; Shorts by Issey Miyake Men; Trainers by Supremebeing 104

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Shirt by Issey Miyake Men; Shorts by Matteo Molinari; Jewellery from the National Theatre Costume Archive

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Shirt by Issey Miyake Men; T-Shirt by Stone Island, Shorts by Vans; Belt by Woolrich

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Purple Poncho by Lee Lapthorne; Yellow Poncho by Penfield 109

Suit by Duchamp; Cummerbund by the National Theatre Costume Hire; Scarf by Le Lapthorne Vs Richard Sorger; Trainers by Adidas 110

tip

When wearing a blazer, please do not button the bottom button. It is supposed to stay unbuttoned. Also when you sit you should unbutton your blazer, as you stand button it back up.

sometimes always never

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Founded in 1995 by Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins, YMC (You Must Create) has built a loyal following based on their understated modernist designs, carefully considered fabrics and hidden details. For Spring Summer 2014 YMC are carrying through their signature minimalist tailoring and relaxed silhouettes. This season sees a combination of playful prints and colours such as animal print, oversized spots and brush strokes in shades of lilac, bold red and deep indigo punctuating the otherwise masculine aesthetic to the collection.

Photography Styling and words Grooming Model

Simon Phipps and Francesco Foroni at simonphippsphotography.com Minna Attala Mary-Jane Gotidoc Chuck @Premier

In this editorial, we at Hedonist show our appreciation for the menswear side of this growing British brand through a cross section of the Spring Summer 2014 collection. Clothing and footwear throughout by YMC.

a day

in the life of

Mark Powell Photography Styling Grooming Model Clothing throughout by

Charl Marais Minna Attala Mary-Jane Gotidoc Dylan Garner @Elite Mark Powell Bespoke

‘‘

I had to do George Clooney as Thomas Jefferson...and Harrison Ford as Abraham Lincoln

’’

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‘‘

You would go to second-hand shop to find the great 4 0 s , 5 0 s , e v e n 60 s suits

asically I was into fashion from a young age, I had my first Levi’s when I was six years old, so it was sort of in me even then. I was a little bit young to be a proper skinhead, you know I’m talking around the time 197172. I was always one of the most stylish kids in school, by the time I was 13 the first thing that got to me was early soul-boy style, sort of around 1975, very influenced by David Bowie and all that sort of stuff. I started to go to tailors to have everything made up when I couldn't find it. Nowadays they call them vintage, in those days we called them second-hand shops. You would go to second-hand shop to find the great 40s, 50s, even 60s suits, so that sort of graduated through to when I was 17 and 18 years old. Now I sort of doodle these trendy or fashionable things that have happened, so I was pretty ahead of the game with vintage I suppose. I had a sort of Rockabilly style and people kept asking me where I got my clothes from, so I started to think maybe I could do

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looks modern and contemporary, so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t look part costume or something you see in a Bugsy Malone film, if you know what I mean. I have done some pretty avant-garde stuff with womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear and have even done some interesting stuff with tailoring. I have far less one domination than most tailors, because I express fashion style through tailoring. My tailoring is more about style firstly, which is then about the craft of tailoring, you know. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine being into the craft of tailoring and that goes without saying, it should be of right quality, it should be well made and it should be well cut. There are others who try to copy what I do normally but when someone over details things then it just loses what it is. I used to do flare-cuffs, but there are

something with this. It boiled out of the idea in the early 80s when you could still do this sort of thing. I worked in up-market retail to start with, basically it was there I got my first job in 1985. I worked for a company on Kings Road called Robot that sold 50s inspired clothing and shoes and I managed their shop in Floral Street. I got my third shop in Archie Street, Soho, in 1985 and that's how it all began. So it was sort of a personal interest and then became something I really wanted to do, it was a PASSION always really.

y clothing is nostalgic inspired but I always make sure it still

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those tailors who have copied it and made it look like a funking Concorde wing. They don't know how to get the balance between exaggeration, subtle details and styles. I suppose it all comes down to detailing while still having a dandy edge, but equally not looking like a costume.

ost high profile thing ever I did was to work with George Clooney and Harrison Ford. I dressed George Clooney as Thomas Jefferson and Harrison Ford as Abraham Lincoln, I had good knowledge of 21st Century stuff, they were quite interesting projects. I suppose the biggest highlight I have celebrated would be George Michael for the Charity Aid concert, probably the best George Michael has ever looked. He was wearing that

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‘‘

I never really had investment in the b u s i n e ss

‘‘

the shop, and we are already doing madeto-measure shoes, a shirt range, and the knitwear and ties. We are just going to build up a lot more and in about 6 years it’s going to be worth doing a wholesale. We were selling to Liberty and some incredible people before the credit crunch happened. But the difference now is that we are going to be spending a bit more money on Marketing and PR, which sadly you have to accept is the way forward because there is so many people out there selling shit products with great PR and marketing which does very well for them. So we are going work on building social networking with a bit more strategy and also prove that I am still so much into young style, which is what I was doing in the 80s and will be so cool now. Three buttoned Edwardian style is coming back around, the button is going to be low on jackets. We show it in one of the shoots, and waist coat things that have always been Mark Powell and at the moment are fashionable and that’s great for me because I can start doing something Mark Powell is known for. I got a lot stuff that I am not even expressing. It should be interesting period the next couple of years for me...

black and white tartan suit, and the Spice Girls when they met Charlie (Prince Charles) and Scary (spice) planted kisses all over him. Bryan Ferry, The Killers, most recently Keira Knightly and Usher, there's a lot them. Too many highlights almost, sports personality of the year Bradley Wiggins looked great in my clothes. Paul Weller in Vogue looked great and generally getting him reinvented and into tailoring again, funnily enough he started off being known for tailoring and he his been used for some campaigns wearing tailoring. Lots of highlights on commercial and corporate levels, the collaboration with M&S, it was a cheesy commercial and it was nice to do something with 'The Queen Mother of the high street'.

ow is quite an interesting time, because never really had investment in the business brand. But we are taking the business forward with investment and basically doing what we were doing obliviously, the tailoring itself is still the key to the PR of the business. We are going to build the readyto-wear side of the business up a lot more. It is pretty amazing that someone could really have a lifestyle with just tailored clothing. We’re going to try ready-to-wear stocks in

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art

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‘‘

My mother was a teenager when I was born. She formed her dreams and aspirations from the world she viewed on television and at the movies. As a child, living in a trailer, the reality of our day- to-day life was juxtaposed with other people’s stories, other’s dreams that defined, to us, what being successful and happy in America was about. This intrigue with how narrative structures or stories are created, sustained and, often, idealized has informed my subsequent career and defined, to a large degree, the parameters of the discourse present in my current paintings. The process of painting these images alternates between control and chance. Though I paint the figurative elements upright in a traditional manner, I disrupt this practice by laying the canvas horizontal and pouring on to it mixtures of oils and synthetic resin. I go back and forth like this as many times as it takes to resolve the piece. It is generally assumed that I paint the whole painting and then pour stuff on top but its really a back and forth from the very beginning stages. I liken the experience to a collaborative (Cont. p. 152)

previous page: Even (oil and galkyd resin on canvas over panel; 72 x 96 ft.; 2007) This page: Until This (oil on panel; 6x8 ft; 2006)

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But That Would Come Later. &NBSP (oil and galkyd resin on panel; 24x 36 ft; 2007)

process, as it inevitably invites indiscriminate painterly moments that I don’t intentionally create or control. The migration of paint moving across the panel, chemically alters whatever is in it’s path, destroying the once “precious” image. This results in unpredictable effects, as the pores mix with wet brushed paint. Sometimes the paint will lift and flake the figure, leaving islands of «skin» floating in juicy slabs of paint. Other times it will bead and pool into mitochondrial shaped colonies.

Conceptually this allows the paint to function as a protagonist in the narrative. The physicality of the paint both cankers and covers the story obscuring individuals and becoming a carrier of meaning. My background includes a BFA from Boston University on a merit based Dean’s Scholarship. Also, MFA from Yale University where I was awarded the Alice Kimball English Travel Grant, enabling a research tour in Europe. My

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Slight (oil and galkyd resin on canvas over panel; 72x96 ft; 2007)

My work is currently on view at Rachael Blackburn Cozad in Kansas City, MO. Most recently, I was awarded a Studio fellowship at the Elizabeth Foundation for the Arts in NY, NY and I look forward to several upcoming group shows this year as well as my 4th solo exhibition Fall 2014 at Inman Gallery.

I have been nominated for the Joan Mitchell Foundation Award, the Louis Comfort Tiffany grant, and have participated in several international artist-in-residence programs.

I live in work in Allentown, PA and New York, NY with my husband, artist Wes Heiss and our daughter Tuesday.

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;

work has been exhibited widely in the US, as well as internationally including P.P.O.W Gallery, NY, NY, Inman Gallery Houston, TX, Kulturemollen, Lovestad, Sweden, the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art, Kansas City, MO, and the Museum of Fine Arts Houston, TX.

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You Werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Haunted Those Two Days, You Were Flooded With Light (oil and gouache on canvas over panel; 66x96 ft; 2013) 133

The Quietest Sounds On Earth (oil on canvas; 96x192 ft; 2010)

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To see the real size of Angelaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s canvas visit: hedonistmagazine.co.uk/matters

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street art

nabrU msilaerrus

interview with Argentine street artist Martin Ron Words by Verónica Gómez Photos by BA Street Art and Miguel Babjaczuk (buenosairesstreetart.com)

artin Ron has painted some stunning murals on a huge scale mixing together surreal elements and everyday occurrences. “What I like most about painting is generating situations of fantasy that have a lot of 3-D so that the technique can be so hyper-real that it generates imaginary situations that appear to exist,” says Martin. “I like it so that the mural comes out of the wall and co-exists with other situations.” A 3-D sea turtle exploding out of a pipe, a giant skateboard carrying a sculpture of a boy listening to talking parrots, a snail pulling along an old cart by a busy motorway, and a Queen´s guard performing the capoeira are some of the fantastic creations by the Argentine street artist.

artin, 32, grew up in the town of Caseros in Buenos Aires and aged seven his mother enrolled him in a painting workshop. “I didn´t wake up one day thinking I want to be a street artist, I have always loved art,” he said. “From the age of 10 I was painting with oils and the first mural I painted was a skull in my bedroom, my friends really liked it and then asked me to paint their bedrooms, and I was then invited to paint a mural in my school.”

ne of his best known murals is that of a sea turtle coming out of a hole in the side of a factory wall painted at the Meeting of Styles street art festival in Buenos Aires 2012. The

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Giant and spectacular (flying sea turtle in Buenos Aires)

artwork took him four days using latex paint applied with brushes and rollers. In many of Martin´s artworks he uses figures on a human scale to exaggerate the effect of 3-D. “The turtle is beautiful animal that isn´t seen a lot. It also has a lot of colours and textures and I thought it would be really interesting to paint. Each person can feel free to interpret the mural how they like. Perhaps my intention was to personify the imagination or the spiritual part of the person in the form of a turtle and a hole in the wall from which his imagination flies out,” revealed Martin. “The old man is not only a way of increasing the effect of 3-D but is an intricate part of the story that is told on the wall.”

artin´s biggest mural to date measures 412 square metres and is one of the biggest in the city of Buenos Aires. Named “The Parrots’ Tale”, covering the façade of a four storey building, the artwork took him

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16 days with the help of two assistants. The mural project was organised and managed by the organisation BA Street Art that promotes the street art scene in the Argentine capital, and the city government paid for a crane, two assistants and 60 litres of latex paint.

he mural features an enormous skateboard carrying a statue of a boy inspired by French sculptor JeanBaptiste Carpeaux, and other surreal elements include a huge hand holding a lollipop stick with a wasp spinning a record. Friends and family, neighbours or passers-by often appear in Martin’s murals. Gabriel Dotta, a friend of Martin´s, is the figure with his tongue sticking out and an aeroplane lifting him up by his hair, and the hand is modelled on that of his girlfriend Erica. “Martin often immortalizes people he knows in his artworks,” explains Gabriel. “Martin told me that I have a really interesting face to paint so to include me in one of

Finished mural in Hanbury Street, London, showing Queensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; guard doing the capoeira

his murals is a great honour. For me Martin is the Messiah of murals.”

number of Martin’s recent murals have featured machines and mechanical hands. “The murals are about man and the machine and the system trying to control the world around it, then it becomes too much and starts to break down,” he explains. “I like to sometimes mix men and machines in my art to try to generate everyday situations between the complex and simple. Quite often it’s the simple things that usually work the best.” Another of his murals in Buenos Aires next to a busy railway crossing is entitled ‘Frog Going the Wrong Way’. It depicts a mutant in a suit on a skateboard carrying a briefcase on his way to work. “The idea was to combine some fun elements in an ironic way. A lot of people are in a hurry, coming and going and are in a bad mood trying to follow orders. So this little frog is asserting itself, it wants to go in another direction when things Martin Ron painting a mini figure of Argentine architect Clorindo Testa start to change and become chaotic and mechanical.” Mural mocking a stressed businessman in a hurry.

nother surreal mural named “Il Carromato Superstar” by a motorway in the Province of Buenos Aires, features Martin’s uncle Rodolfo driving a rickety old cart being pulled by a snail. The artwork provides a moment of light entertainment for watching motorists stuck in traffic jams on their way to work.

mprovisation is a strong feature of Martin’s work. “I like to think ´live´ while I am working,” he explains. “On paper I think about painting a certain situation but then I look at the wall again other ideas emerge and with people, animals and objects interacting with the space, the mural carries on mutating. I have an overall concept for the mural at the start and a general idea what it’s going to look like but when it’s finished it often looks very different as the composition has changed and I have added more details or elements.”

artin also paints canvases with oils but creating murals is what he enjoys most. “What is different about painting in the street is that from the moment you arrive the public are watching,” he says. “It’s fascinating to me because people see everything that is going on until you have finished the mural. You are not producing an artwork indoors in your studio that nobody sees until it is hung on the wall of a gallery.” Hundreds of people watched Martin painting in London. “Many of the people not only see you painting but they see the whole process and others see parts of it. The comments from motorists or pedestrians always surprise me as they tell you exactly what they think. Usually they say nice things but you never can be too sure. I try to make the message about what is happening in a mural subtle so that the imagination of different people can interpret it in different ways and this in one of the things that interests me most.”

n August and September, Martin was in London and painted two surreal murals in Shoreditch. The first on the Village Underground wall depicts a giant mechanical hand pulling the trigger at a cowering badger. The artist only came up with the concept for the design after seeing a TV news report about the badger cull while staying with a friend in London. It took him a week using gloss paint and the mural is entitled ‘David versus Goliath’. “I think the cull is a mistake,” says Martin. “I thought a mural about it would be good to create awareness about the issue. What the mural represents is a complex, powerful mutant machine without feeling (David Cameron) up against a tiny animal called the badger (Goliath) that is adapting to the world around it.” “The Magician” in Buenos Aires with a mechanical hand pulling a zip from which spring forth hundreds of rabbits.

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he second mural Martin painted in Shoreditch is along Hanbury Street just off Brick Lane and took him three days. It features a Queen’s guard at Buckingham Palace taking a timeout to performing the Brazilian martial art ‘capoeira’.

Martin named the artwork ‘Happy Hour’. “I look at the Queen’s guards as typically English, very formal and stoic on duty wearing their uniforms and bearskins outside the palace. So I wanted to create something fun on a grand scale using this image and

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combining it with something typically Latin American like the capoeira. Also being British summertime with the warm weather and sunshine, this character is all about taking a few minutes to relax and also explode!”

‘The Parrots’ Tale’ in Villa Urquiza (Buenos Aires)

artin said he was overwhelmed by the reactions of passers-by and local residents while he was painting.“It was incredible,” he recalls. “People were asking for autographs, to do a sketch in their notebook or have their

photograph taken with me, and one couple said they had travelled hundreds of miles to Shoreditch just to check out the street art.” He added: “The scene in London is different to Buenos Aires. In Buenos Aires, it’s a little more relaxed, there are lots of artists

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painting all over the city and there are lots of big walls to paint. The freedom and the acceptance of the public means that in Buenos Aires, street art is not perceived as vandalism as in some other cities and artists can take their own time creating their artworks

Going nowhere fast - mural named â&#x20AC;&#x153;Il Carromato Superstarâ&#x20AC;?

Portrait of Juan in a metro station Plaza Miserere in Buenos Aires completed in November 2013

Mural mocking a stressed businessman in a hurry

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so their designs are often of very good quality.”

o how does Martin paint murals on such a large scale? “In my case I work with photos and create a small grid dividing the image up into various blocks so I can reproduce it to scale on the wall, and with more time and experience you can recreate the image more accurately and make it bigger and bigger. When painting a large mural you need to get down from the crane and then look at the wall from a distance to check that everything is ok and then go back up again and carry on painting and do it over and over. With more experience your technique improves so that you don´t need to go up and down on the crane quite so much and there comes a point where you are almost painting blind. The reality is that sometimes the mural is so big that you are painting just one metre from the wall and you don´t see the whole picture but the more you paint the faster you become and the less you need to stand back and take a look all the time.”

artin has also taken part in a number of public art projects including painting murals in several metro stations in Buenos Aires and the first project in Latin America to make installations on metro carriages. He has just finished painting a big mural in Plaza Miserere station with part of the design including a machine-like portrait of his friend Juan with his eyes made up of air-conditioning units. The whole mural took Martin with the help of two assistants eight nights to complete as during the day the station operated a regular metro service. “The project is all linked improving the quality of life of people in the city of Buenos Aires through urban art,” explained

Martin. “The metro stations are spaces with a lot of traffic and often they are depressing and dark, so a little bit of colour can be enough to bring a smile to the face of the commuter and make their journey a little more enjoyable.”

artin Ron is not the only street artist painting giant murals in Buenos Aires. Alfredo Segatori, affectionately known as ‘Pelado’ has been working on what is thought to be the biggest mural painted by a single artist in Argentina. The enormous artwork on the banks of the Riachuelo river measures around 1300m2 (100m long x 13m high) and is called ‘The Return of Quinquela’ featuring a portrait of Argentine painter Benito Quinquela Martin who is famous for painting dockyard scenes in the old port area of Buenos Aires. It took Alfredo two months to paint using predominantly aerosol spray.

'' thought it would be interesting to do a portrait of Quinquela as he is a symbol of the place, and also I wanted to recreate the real people who live in the vicinity,” explained Alfredo. “The neighbours really liked the idea and have promised to look after the artwork.” The mural is a public art project organised by the city government as part of a plan to improve a rundown area near the Riachuelo in the south-east part of the city.

n Buenos Aires, every weekend it is common to see street artists and graffiti artists painting and often they get permission from local residents and business owners to decorate the fronts of their houses and shops. Unlike some other cities, an artist does not need permission from the local authority to change the appearance of a building, only the permission of the property

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owner. As long as the artist doesn´t paint anything that might offend the neighbours, he or she is then free to paint what they like.

uciano Gatti known as ‘Ice’, who is well known for his designs around the city featuring animals and mushrooms, finished a new mural in the neighbourhood of Villa Urquiza (in November 2013) that covers three sides of a house and features a samurai fighting scene. Alberto, the owner of the property, was more than happy to let Ice paint what he wanted and local aerosol company Kuwait even paid for all the materials. “I often work with images I find on the internet,” revealed Ice. “I came across some samurai warriors and with all their armour I thought they would be cool to paint.” He added: “A policeman did pass by and ask me if I had permission to paint the wall, I told him ‘yes’ and he said that he really liked the mural.”

Without obvious foothold in reality Anna’s body of work attempts to go beyond the plain description of a natural world. This free-floating and impressionistic version of life that is proposed by the artist, only takes shape in the eye of a viewer as a feeling, an experience, a hazy recollection drawn from childhood. Images mirror each other like a set of Rorschach cards titillating the imagination and speaking to the subconscious. Coming from a great tradition of Russian abstract artists such as Kandinsky, Malevich, Chagal, her work draws upon newer ideas and takes as its inspiration digitisation, fractals, quantum mechanics, the infinite and the unconscious.

Why do you make art?

Anna Subdina the artist

Art is a language that everyone understands. Every viewer sees my work through the prism of personal past experiences finding meaning in patterns and making sense of intertwined shapes. The stories are born every time someone takes a moment to describe what they see. This aspect of my work calls upon viewers' imagination, it is interactive and fun. But there is also a subtler subliminal message. The abstract images undimmed by preconception communicate directly to subconscious the ideas of harmony and balance encoded in them. The universe from atom to galaxy is in a perpetual state of flux. No stable system of equilibrium exists. Everything and everyone are connected by one constant - change. And in this invariable motion there is a brief moment of an unlikely complex organisation of chaotic bits of matter

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held together by information, that pop’s in and out of existence, from chaos to order and back again. We call it Life. On this journey between Chaos and Law the closer you get to any of the two extremes the stronger you can feel the negatives – the Chaos, overly unmanageable and Law by itself overly controlling. Thus all Life consistently inconsistent must strive for Balance, for it cannot be otherwise, and look for Harmony that allows all parts to fit together, for otherwise it cannot flourish. What inspires you to make it? I believe there are only two main driving forces in the world that fuel all action - Love and Fear. Fear is a primordial emotion responsible for survival; Love is the opposite, the other side of the evolution of human psyche, the closest we get to selflessness and to shaking off the boundaries of Ego. These are the

Prism by Anna Sudbina print for Lucas Hugh SS 2014

two primary forces that people, me including, act upon; everything else is consequential. My works reflects that. When working on collaboration, if synergy occurs it is often the process itself that is an inspiration. You enter gestalt where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts, where sometimes very different sets of talents can serendipitously collide releasing incredible energy of creativity, of new ideas, new angles and new modes. It is this interdisciplinary approach that enriches experience of all parties. What's unique or special about how you make it?

The Wall by Anna Sudbina for new Peter Mark in Dublin by Cohn Rhattigan Design

I experiment with materials a lot, in my abstract works i use inks and pigments with glazes and matting agents used in an unconventional way, some of my work has volume created by layers of media from paint to builders foam. I often start from creating a chaos, letting the materials

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I use to flow freely, interact with each other and then spend days looking for harmony, balancing out the colours and shapes. How does it feel to be fulfilling what must be a dream for every artist: to be showcasing and selling your work? Feels great. Of course it is important to have your work out, every artist wants to be seen and receive feedback, but selling finished work is less exciting than say getting a new commission or developing a new idea. Once a piece is complete it is only a question of time that I start feeling unsatisfied with it. I change, my work methods develop and I don't like going back. Does being based in London bring anything to your work, what do you like about the city? London is great city to live in, it's

vibrant and free spirited, it has so much to offer but you have to work hard and to see your goals clearly otherwise it's easy to get distracted. London is a creative hub of the world, being based here really allows you to work internationally. The borders become less tangible. I met amazing and very talented people in London, who continue to be an inspiration. Some of these encounters resulted in exciting collaborative work. For example, there is a wall installed in Ireland that I designed for a great interior design duo Cohn Rhattigan. With the wallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three-dimensional surface stretching over 2 floors, this project definitely pushed me out of my comfort zone, but I loved the challenge. One of my favorite collaborations was a print design for Lucas Hugh, a cutting edge luxury performance wear brand. The Krypton print was based on a small intricate hand drawing of a meteorite. It was extraordinary to see it multiply filling the best stores in London

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and NYC, appearing in Browns Focus window display, fashion magazines and on TV. It was worn by Cheryl Cole and Little Mix and was selected by Mario Testino for his Vogue shoot. I did not expect any of this to happen and it sure was a great motivation to carry on. We have worked together again since then with Anjhe Mules, the founder and creative director of Lucas Hugh. The new collection with my print is out this spring. It has already been showcased in Jeff Koonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s studio in New York. What project are you working on now? I am preparing for my solo exhibition, working on a wallpaper print for a feature wall, and there is also a project with one of the Savile Row tailors in the pipeline.

Jemima Robinson

Millinery about her and

ho is a Milliner and what do they do?Â A milliner is someone who designs and/or makes accessories to be worn on the head, whether that be a classic hat such as a fedora, a cap, a 'fascinator' or maybe a head dress or headband. It is a highly skilled and technical craft requiring many years of practise and experience to achieve the exquisite level of perfection required. Personally I like to think of millinery as wearable sculpture, providing the hat is comfortable and secure there are almost no limitations to what you can put on one's head. Often uniform, dress codes or practicality limit apparel choice, but a hat can simply perch on the head without interference as an expression of personality.

Where did you learn Millinery? I studied an HNC in Millinery at Leeds College of Art where I was taught by the award winning milliner Sharon Bainbridge. Alongside the teaching of classic millinery techniques I had the opportunity to explore the potential of other disciplines such as

jewellery, photography and woodwork which challenged me to incorporate unusual materials in my work. I would recommend the college without hesitation to any one wanting to study the arts, it has such a supportive, creative and nurturing atmosphere.

on a daily basis. It is important of course to look at fashion trends but for me it's more about keeping in touch with what's going on rather than getting direct inspiration from them, it is the shapes and lines that I refer to which I think are the backbone of style.Â

Where do you get inspiration for your designs? My inspiration is usually something unexpected rather than premeditated. If your mind is happy and free to wander it is able to convert the most unlikely of sights/sounds/smells/ experiences into an idea. It's a bit like having a Rubik's cube in your head, instead of the colours there are memories and images attached to the squares, when I'm creating it's like I am fiddling with the combinations on the cube until suddenly a particular arrangement just 'clicks' and up pops an idea that is an amalgamation of all these experiences. I particularly enjoy walks in the countryside for collecting these 'stickers', where nature bombards you with such a diverse array of colours, light, textures and shapes that change

How would you describe the style of your hats? They are modern, chic, and elegant with a quirky and playful edge to them. I am very keen on clean, simple and flowing lines, contrasts in texture, exploring unusual materials and above all the hat must be light, easy to wear and fuss free. I am not a 'frou frou and fascinator' person.

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What materials and techniques do you favour? I like natural materials that I can manipulate with my hands such as straw, felt, leather, cotton and linen. I don't like materials that are brittle, gaudy or resist. The materials I choose depend upon the collection/theme or commission, sometimes it is the material alone that informs and inspires my designs. This is often the case with found, up-cycled

or scrap material, where you only get one opportunity to make the most of it, which might restrict but certainly directs the design. I particularly like working with wire too, it's great for providing lightweight support and fantastic for creating interesting sculptural forms. How did you become interested in millinery? I was looking for a part time creative course that would fit around work and was local to me, and the millinery course at Leeds College of Art came up. I strongly believe in keeping traditional and skilled crafts alive and having an interest in fashion and textiles I thought millinery would combine all these things, which it does! Prior to starting the course I had no particular passion for hats but that soon developed upon starting the course. What tools do you use and how many collections do you design a year? My tools include my hands (most important!), blocks (literally 'blocks' of wood that are shaped into a huge array of styles, onto which you stretch and form your material), hammer, pins, basic sewing kit, iron, steamer, good scissors, pattern master, plus a whole range of other stuff that I use from time to time. Generally a milliner, as with most fashion designers, will produce two main collections per year - Autumn/ Winter and Spring/Summer. However there are events throughout the year such as Royal Ascot, where the opportunity to commission a piece

for someone to wear at such an event is considered particularly significant. Some milliners focus purely on wedding collections and so their design calendar will be scheduled to coincide with the height of the wedding season. At the moment I don't strictly design and make for the seasons, more with a general nod to the season though my choice of materials. When and where will you be able to get hold of your collections? At the moment you need to contact me directly (contact details follow this article) for a hat or commission as I don't as yet stock my hats in any shops. You will however be able to see my Spring/Summer 2014 collection on display at Ditto fabrics in Brighton (contact details follow this article) in April, where I will be creating head pieces to showcase their fabulous fabric. You offer a customised design service, how long does this process take? This really depends on the complexity and specifications of the commission. There would be an initial consultation to take measurements, discuss ideas, style and size etc. followed by a second meeting to asses direction, progress, any changes and try on the 'skeleton' of the piece. The final fitting would ensure comfort, perfect fit and of course that the customer is happy. Three to four weeks would be ideal but for simple pieces or in certain circumstances it can be done in a week or two. 148

What are your future plans for the business? At the moment I am focusing on the brand identity and design personality of Twiggys Topknots. But looking forward I would like to find some stockists and gradually dedicate more and more time to the business as I take on more commissions. Describe your experience at the Liberty Open Call. It was both exciting and nerve wracking! I am a huge Liberty fan, having always admired their fusion of contemporary and traditional design within such an atmospheric and historic space. I waited a couple of hours to see the buyers, becoming increasing nervous as time went on. Talking to some of the other designers, finding out what they were bringing along and exchanging experiences was a welcome distraction! When I eventually met the buyers I was quite taken aback by how lovely they were, very welcoming and down to earth. In fact the informality caught me out somewhat and the pitch I had prepared went out the window, despite having my notes in front of me. I began by showing and explaining my hats and they asked me some questions that helped me find my stride. The feedback I received was very positive and they really liked my hats, so I'm hoping to meet their millinery buyer in the near future. All in all it was a fantastic opportunity and I would definitely recommend any designer maker to give it a go.

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this is interesting 9% of men are colour blind (and 0.5% of women)

Walt Disney was dyslexic

Charles Dickens slept facing North. He thought it improved his writing

In his lifetime, a man spends almost 6 months shaving

Horatio Nelson, one of Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most illustrious admirals was throughout his life, never able to find a cure for his sea-sickness

55%of men think a pub date is more romantic than a candleelit dinner

the average age men reach their sexual peak is 33

58% of men think marriage is very important

Chuck Norris' first name is Carlos

During infancy, boys are more emotionally reactive than girls

There are three best known western names in China: Jesus Christ, Richard Nixon and Elvis Presley

The longest erect penis on record was 13 inches (33 cm). The smallest was 1 cm

London taxi drivers, who have to remember every street in London, have an enlarged hippocampus suggesting that this area grows as you memorize more information

Fictional/horror writer Stephen King sleeps with a nearby light on to calm his fear of the dark

Straight men consume more transsexual porn than any other demographic

1 in 10 men pretend to know the rules to every sport. Even if they don't

Leonardo da Vinci could write with one hand and draw with the other at the same time

Putting a hot laptop on man's lap may cause infertility

do you know Men usually cheat with women they know

Men are just as emotionally needy as women

Men blink twice as less as women

A teaspoon of semen contains approximately 5 calories. Sex burns off an average of about 100 calories per session

Martin Luther was an anti-Semite

83% of men would never show sexy pictures of their girlfriends to their friends

Alexander the Great was an epileptic

King Solomon of Israel had about 700 wives as well as hundreds of mistresses

Men need at least two guys nights a week to stay healthy

1 in 20 men admit to sleeping with a cuddly toy on a regular basis

When sexually aroused, 60% of men get erect nipples

Fat men 42% less likely to commit suicide

Donald Duck comics were banned from Finland because he doesn't wear any pants

Nearly 40% men dont feel confident while meeting a date for first time

Men are put off by a group of loud women

In England, 1/3 of men ages 35-40 are so fat they can't see their own penises

Men cry

23% men spend their loose change on Chinese takeaway

Men don't want to talk about it. They want to figure it out

Al Capone's business card said he was a used furniture dealer

Men lie 6 times a day, twice as often as women

Men with shaved heads are perceived as an inch taller and 13% stronger than men with hair

Michael Jordan makes more money from Nike annually than all of the Nike factory workers in Malaysia combined

Doctors can now grow skin for burn victims using the foreskins of circumcised infants. One foreskin can produce 23,000 square meters, which would be enough to tarp every Major League infield with human flesh.

Bob Dylan's real name is Robert Zimmerman

Men were the first to wear high heels aroubd the 1600s. Women began wearing them to look more masculine

A 99-year-old man divorced his 96-yearold wife after 77 years of marriage because he discovered an affair she had in the 1940s

Men don't take hints

David Bowie's left eye became permanently dilated after he got into a fight when he was 15. It was a fight overa girl

Men also undergo hormonal changes when their wives are expecting

Sigmund Freud had a morbid fear of ferns

A man named Charles Osborne had the hiccups for 69 years

Men hate it when their clothes get dirty. Even a small dot

Men spend almost a year of their lives staring at women

Unfaithful men have lower IQS

The longer a manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ring finger is compared to his index finger, the more testosterone he has

John D. Rockefeller gave away over US$ 500.000.000 during his lifetime

In every episode of Seinfeld there is a Superman somewhere

The average male orgasm lasts 6 seconds (women get 23 seconds)

You can recognise horse males by its teeth: most of them have 40 (females have 36)

Men say approximately 12,500 words per day (women say 22,000)

Adolf Hitler was a vegetarian, and had only one testicle

Only one man in 400 is flexible enough to give himself oral pleasure

The only member of ZZ Top that doesn't have a beard is Frank Beard

M&Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stands for the names of Forrest Mars, Sr., the candymaker and his associate Bruce Murrie

Men are nicer when they are not with their friends

A man will never know if you really like him unless you tell him

Elvis Presley was a natural blond. His black hair was the product od dye, beginning back in high school

Sir Winston Churchill rationed himself to 15 ciars a day

Most men are still in love with their wives when they cheat

know that

Definition of a man with manners: he gets out of the bath to pee

short

stories

Benefits are failing You don’t need to be an expert to say your opinions on anything. You don’t need to be a sociologist to observe people and their lifestyle, reactions, dos or don’ts. By observing I don’t mean checking out somebody, I mean try to understand them and have a little empathy. It's easier that way to see whole picture in the world. By observing you will see some facts; some of them are right most of them are wrong. If you witness anything just say something whether to stop them or encourage them to carry on. Don’t forget you will be part of it no matter what. Here we are in London, one of the most exciting and famous cities in Europe. Lots of thing to do here for a traveler or a tourist but if you live here you need to start criticizing, especially as an immigrant you start losing your roots, beliefs and origin to adapt some dodgy habits to live. I am not going to give you any statistics here about education, health, work, politics, youth etc. but you can check on them in various websites just to see how people are getting mean, cheeky and cheesy to survive in this world class city. A great deal of people getting benefits from government because they divorced, disable or jobless. Most of them fakers believe me, but there

is no control or pressure from the government to lessen or prevent it so they can keep lying to have it. This is not what civilized people do. Probably, they think they live in a modern city so this is the one of the fundamental component to be modern and normal. Another case which deeply moves me: young girls give a birth in early age just to get some benefits from the government. Lately newcomers do the same thing. As soon as they step foot in the UK they decide to have baby as if there is no time for it. It is only been 2-3 years maximum they are in this country but they have at leat 2-3 babies. Doesn't it seem funny? You see them all the time and everywhere. Faking for benefits up to some level maybe I can say ok but having a baby for it is totally different and not ethical. In my opinion, I don’t think they know it but physiologically and psychologically (because of the age, language and sensation) they are not ready for having kids. If they can not be there for them what would they expect from their chilgren when those grow up? Don’t you think it is most likely for them to be a loose cannon? Do you think they will be loved enough? Don’t you think this is an abuse? Taking

Crunch Crum

Marlboro Man

George Crum invented the Potato Chip. According to sources, a customer said their french fries were too thick so, Crum, cooked the customer what he wanted by slicing potatoes paper-thin, over-frying them to a crisp, and seasoning them with an excessive amount of salt. He expected the customer to dislike them, but he actually loved them. The chips became popular, called "Saratoga chips" or "potato crunches". Crum opened his own restaurant in 1860 with profits he made selling his new chips.

The Marlboro Man is a figure used in tobacco advertising campaign for Marlboro cigarettes. In the United States, where the campaign originated, it was used from 1954 to 1999. The Marlboro Man was first conceived by Leo Burnett in 1954. The image involves a rugged cowboy or cowboys, in nature with only a cigarette. The advertisements were originally conceived as a way to popularize filtered cigarettes, which at the time were considered feminine. Four men who claimed to have appeared in Marlboro-related advertisements—Wayne McLaren, David McLean, Dick Hammer and Eric Lawson — died of smoking-related diseases, thus earning Marlboro cigarettes, specifically Marlboro Reds, the nickname "Cowboy killers". McLaren testified in favor of anti-smoking legislation at the age of 51. During the time of McLaren's anti-smoking activism, Philip Morris denied that McLaren ever appeared in a Marlboro ad, a position it later amended to 152

advantage of the baby for the sake of money is not fair. There will be always a gap between parents and the children. This is not new, lots of people from different minority background tried it thousand times and it did not work out very well. The conclusion is frustration. We need to change this ongoing irregularity and mentality. World is getting weirder day by day in every sense. Instead of saying our thoughts we agree with other people opinions no matter what they are saying, in order to be normal (Who decide what normal is what is normal anyway) we are losing our individuality. In the sense of lifestyles we are all look a like (single-typed people) nowadays in every city and the country. I think the worst part of this even our dreams are same with everybody else... It did not happen overnight so we should start to think what we need to do in order to make this change. Everybody can do something. We live in the same world don’t we? Whatever we do it reflects on them and vice versa. As far as I am concerned if you accept that you are one and unique, you can change the world. Gandhi said: “Be the change that you wish to see in the world.”

maintain that while he did appear in ads, he was not the Marlboro Man; Winfield held that title. In response, McLaren produced an affidavit from a talent agency that had represented him, along with a pay check stub, asserting he had been paid for work on a "Marlboro print" job. McLaren died before his 52nd birthday in 1992.

coincidence Robert Lincoln the son of Abraham Lincoln, was waiting to board a crowded train when the train lurched forward and he fell between the platform and the body of the passenger car he was trying to board. But before harm came, he was seized by the collar and yanked to the platform. His rescuer was Edwin Booth the brother of the man that would soon kill President Lincoln.

"Crowded room" Terror stalked the Ohio State University campus in 1977. Four female students were abducted, robbed, then raped. Acting on a mysterious phone tip and a mug-shot identification by one victim, police in Columbus arrested William Milligan, 23. At first the suspect seemed like a classic young offender: physically abused as a child, cashiered from the Navy after one month, constantly in trouble with employers and police. That familiar portrait changed suddenly during a psychological exam. When a woman psychologist addressed Milligan as "Billy," he replied, "Billy's asleep. I'm David." It was the first strong clue that Milligan suffered from a rare and dangerous disorder: true multiple personality. Psychiatrist George T. Harding came to a startling conclusion: Milligan had fractured his psyche into ten "people," eight male and two female. Later on an additional 14 personalities, labeled "The Undesirables" were discovered. According to the psychiatrists, Milligan's personalities use different voice patterns and facial expressions, test at varying I.Q. levels, and turn out different kinds of artwork: 1. Billy Milligan is the core personality, guilty, suicidal and "asleep" for most of the past seven years. When Billy first has been summoned up, Milligan jumped off his chair and said, "Every time I come to, I'm in some kind of trouble. I wish I were dead." 2. Arthur is an extremely sophisticated and educated Englishman. An expert in science and medicine, with a focus on hematology. He is in "the spot"â&#x20AC;&#x201D;that is, in charge of the shared bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;during times that required intellectual thinking. Arthur is one of only two personalities who could classify a person in the group as an undesirable. 3. Ragen Vadascovinich is the "keeper of hate." His name comes from the words "rage again." Ragen describes himself as Yugoslavian, has a Slavic accent and can write and speak in SerboCroatian. He controls the spot in dangerous times and can designate group members as "undesirable." He admitted committing robbery in order to support "the family," but had no knowledge of the rapes. 4. Allen, 18, is a con man and a manipulator. He is the most common person to talk to the outside world. He plays the drums and paints portraits. Also the only right-handed self. He is the only personality that smokes cigarettes. 5. Tommy, 16, is the escape artist; he is often

confused with Allen. He plays the tenor sax and is an electronics expert. He is also a painter, specializing in landscapes. 6. Danny, 14, a frightened and abused child who is afraid of people, especially men. He only paints still lifes, saying that this was because Chalmer, his stepfather, made him dig his own grave and buried him in it leaving only a hole for breathing. He may have made the call leading to Milligan's arrest. The police number was found on a pad next to Milligan's phone. 7. David, 8, is the "keeper of pain." He comes to the spot to take the pain of the others. 8. Christene, 3, was the one who would stand in the corner in school when "Billy" would get in trouble. She has dyslexia, but Arthur taught her to read and write. Ragen has a special bond with her. 9. Christopher, Christene's brother, plays the harmonica. 10. Adalana, 19, a lesbian, cooks and cleans house for the others, and writes poetry. Milligan's attorney claimed that Adalana had admitted to committing the rapes without the knowledge of Milligan or the other alters. The other characters were labeled "undesirable" after breaking the rules laid down by Ragen and Arthur: 11. Phil is a thug and took part in planning some small time crimes. Has a Brooklyn accent. Marked due to him being a criminal. 12. Kevin is a criminal planner; he helped devise a plan to rob a drug store. Labeled also because he is a criminal. 13. Walter is Australian. He calls himself a biggame hunter and has an excellent sense of direction. Was often used as a spotter. He was labeled because he shot and killed a crow. 14. April only has thoughts about destroying Billy's stepfather. Declared an Undesirable when she convinced Ragen to kill Chalmer. Luckily though Arthur was able to talk him out of it at the last second. 15. Samuel is the Jewish person. He is the only one who believes in God. Was marked because he sold some of the other people's personal paintings. 16. Mark is the workhorse. He is often referred to as the zombie because he does nothing unless he is told, and will stare at walls when bored. 17. Steve is the impostor, he uses imitations for comedy. Steve never accepted that he was an MP. He was made to be undesirable because 153

his comedy caused the family problems. 18. Lee is the prankster and his practical jokes normally get the family into trouble. He does not care about consequences for his actions. He was made an undesirable because one of his jokes put them into solitary confinement. 19. Jason is the pressure valve. He was used at the beginning to release tension for the family, but he caused them to get into too much trouble and was marked as an undesirable. 20. Bobby always dreams of leading some adventure or fixing some global crisis, but he has no ambitions and was labeled due to that fact. 21. Shawn, who is four and deaf, makes buzzing sounds so he can feel the vibration in his head. He was labeled an undesirable because there was no benefit from being deaf later on in life. (Even though he is an undesirable he was never cast into the shadows beyond the spot; he was just never allowed to take the spot.) 22. Martin is a snob, from New York. He wants things just handed over to him without earning them. 23. Timothy worked in a florist shop until he encountered a gay man who flirted with him. He went into his own world after that. The Teacher, was by far the greatest milestone to helping Billy achieve fusion. He is the sum of all 23 people put together, and has almost total recall of all the other people's actions and thoughts. Milligan's multiple personality, like others, is a desperate attempt to handle conflicting emotions by parceling them out to different "people" and is associated with a severely warped childhood. The illegitimate son of two Florida entertainers, Milligan was three when his father committed suicide. His stepfather physically abused his mother and sodomized young Milligan, threatening to bury him alive if he told. As a teen-ager in Ohio, Milligan fell into trances and walked the streets in a daze. He was incarcerated twice, once for rape, once for robbery, and failed at every job he had. Instead of being prisoned, Milligan was pleaded an insanity defense and sent to a mental hospitals. In 1988, after ten years in a psychiatric hospital Milligan was recognized recovered and released. He was the first person diagnosed with multiple personality disorder to raise such a defense.

Irreconcilable differences The age-old question – romance and pampering or wanking and porn? A couple share their irreconcilable differences when it comes to celebrating anniversaries. I believe I am quite a sexual person, however my husband's idea about how to celebrate our anniversary made me realise I was much further behind him in terms of sexual fantasies. Like a lot of women, I insisted upon spending our special day with a splash of romance. I booked us into a 5 star spa, for some pampering and much needed rest and relaxation. My husband on the other hand had another idea, specifically, going to the cinema – somewhat less romantic. However, my obliging/‘coerced’ husband wrapped himself in a fluffy gown and endured the day of indulging. Although an amazing day for me, his looks of utter boredom juxtaposed with my pleasured socked indulgent face made me realise that the day had to finish with a trip to his ‘cinema’. After a few wrong turns down a few questionable alleyways we finally found the ‘theatre’, and setting the tone were two sleazy guys on the door welcoming us. I was quick to realise that I wasn’t in for a popcorn and romcom affair. Inside were two rooms with chairs,

basically a tiny cinema with a slight difference, the screening was a porno. Unlike some sexy Hollywood depictions of mass sexual excursions a.k.a Eyes Wide Shut, this place was full of dirty old men masturbating, together. Shocked that firstly they were 50-70 year olds and secondly the fact that they were watching porn together AND getting off together was disturbing and downright disgusting. Happy anniversary to me! Although I was told there would be lots of young couples, I was the only woman present. My husband and I stood in the corner of the room, looking tentatively at the people and the movie playing, slowly started to realise the men were staring at me like dirty dogs. At first my husband was actually proud that so many men were admiring his wife, but very quickly when he saw their hungry/horny looks he quickly ushered us into the other room. As soon as we walked into room number two, the men followed us. At that point I got really scared and wanted to go home, but my hubby said we should stay for a bit having just got there, I obliged. The next step was to take a seat, which quite frankly was the last thing I wanted to do. The thought of the ‘activities’ that had been

truly deserved

left or right

Daniel Craig, the man who played James Bond in the newest offspring of the classic series has won Aston Martins for life. We’ve always known that it would be awesome to be James Bond, but this takes it to a whole new level. For Craig’s dedication to the series and his hard work, Aston Martin decided to give him a free pass to drive any of their car models any time he likes for the rest of his life. Along with getting these free cars for the rest of his life, Craig also gets to test them on the track any time he fancies. Aston Martins’ top speeds are far beyond that which is legal on any road, so whenever he wants to push their limits he can contact the company and have them set up a track for him.

Some countries drive on the right and some countries drive on the left. The origin of this varies based on the time period and country, but primarily throughout history people used the “keep-left” rule. It has only been very recently that the world has predominately switched to the “keep-right” rule. The first archaeological evidence of type rule for a road, originates in the Roman Empire, as they built a lot of massive, well trafficked roads spanning Europe and thus would have needed to establish certain rules governing how people were to interact on the roads. Archaeological evidence suggests it was common for the Romans to drive on the left side of the road. The roads weren’t always very safe for travelers; meeting people coming the other way on the road was something best done defensively. Historians then believe the keep-left rule was adopted because, on a horse, if you were right handed and you met some unsavory company on the road, you could draw your weapon, typically attached to your left side, with your right hand and 154

performed on the seats made me feel downright sick, but nonetheless it was the safest place, as everyone was now standing around us. After taking a seat, I could see the excitement in the eyes of the men – probably thinking we would grind-on and give them a show. Nobody was watching the movie. We became the show. The old men kept looking at us and giving us signals (read: cock out) that we could start. I couldn't even think about sex. I was holding my husband's hand like a little girl holding her dad’s, scared of the monsters (although these monsters were worse than my childhood imaginings). After a few minutes of being ogled and masturbated upon by the ugly, wrinkled phalluses both of us agreed it was time to say adieu. I felt like crying. After leaving the wankfest, we spent the entire journey home in utter silence. We didn't even have sex that night. Although I was upset by the turn of events on our anniversary, in retrospect I don’t actually regret going. It opened me up to a whole new sexual world, even though not to my orientation, I like knowing what was once the unknown. My only regret – we should have had our cleansing spa after the ‘movie’.

bring it to bear quickly against the person who is going the opposite way of you on your right; all the while, controlling the reigns with your left hand. This held across most of the Western World until the late 1700s. Switching to a keep-right rulestarted with France: French Revolutionists didn’t want anything to do with anything that had ever been Pope decreed. Also, they didn’t want to use the same rule of the road the English used. Napoleon then spread this system throughout the countries he conquered. Even after he was defeated, most of the countries he had conquered chose to continue with the keep-right system. England never adopted this method primarily because massive wagons, as became common in the United States, didn’t work well on narrow streets which were common in London and other English cities. England was also never conquered by Napoleon or later Germany.

somebody said

Once upon a time I was sweet and innocent, and then shit happened.

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