Independent Study 1: Fashion Writing Heidi Beasley
Contents
The Basis of Print
p.5
Introduction to the UK Magazine Market
p.6
Chapter 1
p.9
Women’s Interest Magazines
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
Women’s Magazines - Current UK Market The Freebies Falling Market Marie Claire Future Projections The Missing Market - Generation Z Print > Digital Haptic Persuasion Trust the Content Introduction to The Diary Content Flatplan
Bibliography & Appendix
p.7
p.10 p.12 p.14 p.15
p.21
p.22 p.25 p.26 p.28 p.29
p.31
p.32 p.36 p.38
p.40
Print magazines have a reach of 22 million consumers within the UK
88%
Agree that reading printed magazines is time well spent
72%
Find they have a close connection to the magazines they read
71%
Think that magazines offer something they can’t get elsewhere
81%
Trust the content they read in printed magazines
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An Introduction to The UK Magazine Market
Magnetic Media is a marketing agency based in the UK for consumer magazine media - existing to give advertisers the best possible engagement from magazine brands. By partnering with the likes of Hearst, TI media and Shortlist media, Magnetics’ aim is to continue the power of magazine brands, opening up conversations to help the media, advertising and marketing communities within as well as sharing information within the print and digital market. Magnetic Media conducted research into the consumer magazine market and discovered that as a whole in the UK have a total reach of 22 million consumers (Magnetic Media, 2019), women’s magazines make up over 15 million - giving a market share of over 75%.
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Women’s Interest Magazines Metaphorically, magazines integrate into an idealised individual consciousness (McCracken, 1993), women readers can experience real and unworldly senses of community from the text they read. With women’s interest magazines making up the majority of the UK magazine market, it is apparent that reading is used as some form of escapism - used to seek distraction as well as education. In 2019, 90% of women consume magazine media each month - 53% of this is printed (Magnetic Media, 2019), showing that the print publication market is still very much alive. Fashion magazines make up a large majority of the women’s interest section as well as being an essential aspect of the fashion industry. They are the medium that promotes designers work to the consumer – this has been their original use since the seventeenth century when Le Mercure Galant was published, featuring illustrations of French women’s wear designers (Ginsberg, n.d). Fashion magazines didn’t really take off until towards the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century, when Lady’s Magazine and Townsends were part of the market. With literacy skills improving and the improvement of printing, the sales of fashion and lifestyle magazines grew from that point. In the twenty-first century Western world, women are now as educated as men – leading to fashion magazines widening topics - educating readers on world news, pop culture and social issues. Harper’s Bazaar is one of the popular fashion magazines still today with a rich history, initially founded as Harper’s Bazar in 1867, along with Vogue, first published in 1892.
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1
Fashion & Lifestyle Magazines Current UK Market 10
2018
UK Market Statistics
Publication
January -June 2018 Circulation
Year-on-year % change
Free Copies
Number of Issues over 6mth period
John Lewis Edition
475,425
-2%
ALL
2
Good Housekeeping
428,711
-3%
72,237
6
Stylist
403,855
+1%
ALL
25
Cosmopolitan
302,514
-25%
79,686
6
Woman & Home
284,467
-6%
6,000
6
HELLO!
249,834
8%
-
26
Yours
242,499
-4%
24,138
13
Prima
226,129
-6%
19,674
6
Vogue
192,112
1%
4,583
6
Red
171,440
3%
28,176
6
Elle (UK)
151,763
-12%
18,134
6
Women’s Health
133,452
1%
32,981
5
Marie Claire
123,854
-21%
39,135
6
Harper’s Bazaar
117,414
5%
51,567
6
Grazia
102,022
-7%
15,837
26
Candis
86,579
-10%
301
6
Tatler
78,090
-2%
21,425
6
HELLO! Fashion Monthly
75,888
11%
-
5
Vanity Fair
72,044
0%
9,317
6
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The Freebies Out of all of the fashion and lifestyle magazines within the UK market, it is apparent that free publications are succeeding as they are both in the top three of circulation. This could be due to the fact that the free magazines are now of a higher content standard, leaving readers less likely to spend between £2-5 on magazines containing similar content. Although haptics is an important aspect of the readers experience, having a free publication results in a lower expectation from the readers behalf. Whilst magazines such as Stylist and John Lewis Edition are not necessarily magazines that the reader will save or display on their coffee table, their content is of a high quality and enjoyed by readers who may not consider buying a fashion or lifestyle magazine otherwise. To remain as profiting publications, Stylist and John Lewis Edition use other tools rather than selling cost to gain income. Stylist magazine work alongside brands such as Levi’s, Rituals, American Express and British Airways, and host it’s Stylist Live Events that gets over 20,000 attendees paying between £15-£80 admission. Other incomes include the Stylist books that are available, including ‘Reimagined Beauty’ and ‘Remarkable Women’ retailing for £9.99 av.
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“It’s not the format that is dead, it’s distribution, it’s relevance, it’s engagement with the audience. People still love print, it’s just how you get it to them that seems to be the biggest challenge at the moment.” Lisa Smosarski, Stylist EiC
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2019
Between January and June 2019, women’s lifestyle and fashion magazines have continued to decline in circulation, with only 3/17 of the prints experiencing period-on-period growth, whilst others remained level or declined. The magazines that saw a slight rise in circulation included Harper’s Bazaar, Stylist and Tatler. Cosmopolitan, John Lewis Edition and Good Housekeeping were amongst the magazines experiencing more significant declines, whilst Vogue and Vanity Fair noted no change in circulation.
Harper’s Bazaar Stylist Tatler
+1.1% +0.2% +0.1%
117,600 404,392 79,100
Cosmopolitan John Lewis Edition Good Housekeeping
-14.1% -12% -6.4%
206,510 391,650 423,00
Vogue Vanity Fair
0% 0%
The Falling Fashion Magazines The women’s magazine market is considered to be a shadow of its former self (Joely Carey, 2017), the 2018 and 2019 statistics made it clear that many of the fashion magazines are experiencing a huge reduction in circulation, with Cosmopolitan, Elle and Marie Claire suffering a noticeable decline - resulting in Marie Claire ceasing print within the UK from November 2019. Cosmopolitan’s continual decrease in circulation could lead to another magazine that was once popular converting to online use only.
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192,200 70,100
marie claire
The Thinking Woman’s Magazine Connecting confident, influential and successful women. After 31 years of publication, TI Media ceased the print circulation of Marie Claire UK magazine after its continued fall in print circulation - like many magazines in the women’s fashion and lifestyle market. Maire Claire saw a drop of 21% in between 2017 and 2018, a and further drop of 3% between January - June 2019, with only 63% of readers actively purchasing and 35% of the copies being given away for free (Audit Bureau of Circulations, 2019). TI Media made the decision to move the focus onto its online platforms and its online shopping site - The Marie Claire Edit, working alongside popular fashion retailers such as Net-a-porter and ASOS.
“to best serve the changing needs of its audience’s mobile-first, fast paced, style-rich lifestyles”. (2019) TI stated that the digital move is
The Marie Claire website already has two million monthly users, as well as over 20 million followers on its combined Instagram accounts. However, the UK specific Instagram account has one of the lowest follower counts of 130,000 - which compared to other publications following is low - Cosmopolitan, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue all have UK followings between 400,000 and 3 million. This could be due to the fact that the target market is unclear - with Generation Z - Generation X all using social media, they are missing the mark with all generations. 17
The Errors of Marie Claire
Affulent Leader Influencer
Target Who?
The demographic of Marie Claire was somewhat blurred in the later years, whilst they were clear to be aiming at a group of women in the successful stage of their lives, the age of the reader is unclear and differs throughout the articles. Whilst success, influence and confidence can all occur at different ages for different women, the content of Marie Claire is suitable for women over a variety of ages - however, I think that having such a wide age group to cater to has resulted in Marie Claire lacking a strong and loyal demographic base. With competition such as Cosmopolitan, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar tailoring content more towards their specific reader demographics, I can see why consumers are most likely to purchase them.
Lacking the Luxe
The fashion and accessories featured in Marie Claire is varied with pieces taken from the high street right up to the biggest high-end fashion houses. The typically A5 magazine seems to lack the luxury factor that competing luxury brands like Vogue ands Harper’s Bazaar have. A remodel of the magazine could have potentially helped Marie Claire to take a secure place within the fashion magazine market, their final copy was produced A4 size and was definitely more appealing amongst the magazine rack than the original A5.
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Saving Marie Claire In order for Marie Claire to succeed and avoid ceasing print, a remodel would be required. Ditching the handbag, A5 sized publication and replacing it with something that stands out more to the consumer. A4 size would be a standard way to improve reader experience, allowing pages to be freed up and less heavily text based. Now is the time for mainstream magazines to think outside of the box, and be more innovative when it comes to haptics and content. Browsing through a mainstream consumer magazine rack differs to when you browse an indie magazine store - with more creators thinking outside of the box and opposing the typical A4 glossy magazine. Mainstream magazines could learn a lot from the indie market, in terms of creativity. Content is a clear issue for Marie Claire, and whilst visuals and haptics cause the initial attraction, content is what keeps the readers interested and creates the need to purchase consistently. Marieclaire.co.uk is lacking innovation within its articles, with many of them relating to the same topic. As of 29th November 2019 (Black Friday) 14 of the home page articles are relating to different black Friday deals - this has the ability to totally overwhelm the reader, and can result in them choosing to read none of the articles. Glamour magazine is an example of making a remodeling work - creating a publication that appeals more to their readership - it would be beneficial for Marie Claire to decide who its readers are, ensuring that content is to the correct tone and appealing to the audience - leading to them purchasing. Switching to online media may not be enough for Marie Claire if its content remains the same, and the audience remain to be unclear. When discussing the internet in 1996, Bill Gates stated that “A magazine can’t just take what it has in print and move it to the electronic realm. There isn’t enough depth or interactivity in print content to overcome the drawbacks of the online medium.” (1996). Marie Claire need to consider this whilst creating content for their online platforms, they need to offer some kind of personal involvement for the online reader, using audio and video to immerse them in a way that they were missing as a printed magazine.
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2
Future projections for the UK Magazine Market
Fashion magazines now need to consider whether they are aiming towards the mass lifestyle magazine reader or want to focus on the niche markets that are still drawn in by the haptics of magazines. Many readers choose to buy magazines over online reading due to the reader experience that comes along with it, and the aesthetics of stacks of magazines, coffee tables and magazine racks - all aspects that are shown on popular Instagram feeds. I would suggest to magazines that are printed on a lower quality paper, and lack the aesthetics that would make readers want to save the copy, to consider upping the visuals and quality of the magazine - if that is not feasible, lowering the price. Stylist is an example of a magazine that lacks haptics, whilst still increasing in circulation after 10 years. However, the magazine is FREE - other publications could consider a similar business model to Stylist, raising funds elsewhere (books, social media, hosting events), so that they could lower the price of their publication. Print magazines seem to be separating their print and online media, which could be an example of why sales are decreasing. Using their online presence to promote both their online and print articles could lead to the rise in print magazines - appealing to Generation Z who have grown up online, relate to the online posts but have never considered to buy a magazine - as they access everything through technology.
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Working Example: Cosmopolitan UK Magazine
If print fashion magazines are now being consumed by a big population of readers drawn in by haptics and visuals that come along with the physical copies. I think that for fashion magazines to increase in circulation, they need to consider the quality of the paper, visuals, and ask if readers would get enough enjoyment from these elements to choose to spend money on a physical copy, rather than the alternative that is reading online or purchasing a different publication. An example of this is Cosmopolitan magazine, it is apparent that their circulation has dropped by 14.1% in 2019. Their website does however, have a monthly reach of 17,362 within the UK and 3,097,200 followers on their UK social media platforms - with 2.3 million of those coming from Facebook. Having a big online presence whilst promoting the brand, also has the ability to divert readers to the free, easy access, online articles, rather than encouraging to purchase the physical copy. Social media for Cosmopolitan seems to try to be more relatable to its audience, posting mainly popculture memes - using the platforms to promote their magazine could result in higher sales, whilst also appealing to the Generation Z younger market.
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Missing Market - Generation Z The age range of Generation Z is 7-22, it is the largest generation yet and compensates for 40% of the population (Godwin, 2019). Aiming towards this target group is vital for many markets, but could be a way to revive the print sector. Being a generation who have grown up with internet and technology, the majority are far more likely to read blogs, online news articles and social media using their mobile phones. However, this also comes down to the fact that they possibly have never experienced the effects of haptics, the difference between physical and online visuals and the aesthetic that comes with saving magazines.
Publishers could utilise their social media platforms to aim towards the generation Z market whilst researching what and who the generation are particularly interested in. Growing up with internet has given them the choice of being totally harsh when it comes to media, having the option to just close tabs immediately - so the first few seconds are crucial. Publications need to entice this generation in, but be straight to the point in order to keep them interested in the article. Growing up online has resulted in Generation Z being used to all the online marketing tricks from brands, so trying to be personable with them with memes is likely to stop them from investing in the brand - however, it could lead to sharing with friends, which in turn shares companies’ social media accounts. Publishers need to appeal to the market whilst still keeping their clear, strong branding - avoiding any cringe attempts relating to the teens.
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Print > Digital Print has a uniqueness that digital media is lacking - there is no limit on the creative output, with many possibilities within the design. Digital media however, is majorly restricted to the guidelines of web pages – no matter how creative the platform gets, it will still be restricted to the browser, mobile web and application design. The lack of physical touch means that online media platforms will always be distanced from the reader, the whole experience has a screen between the reader and the publication – resulting in little reader experience. The experience readers get from a print publication differs to reading on technology, print not only gives the reader a sense of luxury, but it also has the capability for readers to unwind resulting in the appreciation of print.
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“The mass consumption of digital content has elevated the print magazines to a collectable premium product which cuts through digital”
Ryan Battles, Content & Brand Director, Dialogue
Whilst it appears that digital media is out growing print, Global Media (2019) predicted that 55% of luxury brands advertising spends would go towards print magazines in 2019, showing that print is continuing to be sought after. The brand values of the print industry coincide with those of within the luxury market, print has the ability to communicate luxury through visual communication of the brand. For some luxury brands, readers may have a love for the brand but their magazine is the only product they can afford to support the brand – it becomes more inclusive for consumers and widens the brands market. Publications can all communicate the quality, pro-
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Print is Luxury
Online media has created an overhaul of articles, many of those being superficial, fake news articles – created purely to give more and more content to the audience. Having access to digital media has made it less desirable to consumers – when something becomes so accessible to us, it becomes much more unappreciated. The overconsumption of digital media has resulted in a higher desire for print, print is not an everyday experience making it more unique with it becoming more collectable and archive able. PAMco publishers (2019) discovered that the average woman in the UK spends around 112 minutes reading print magazines each month, opposing 18 minutes on digital magazines - backing up the idea that readers find the print magazine reading experience more desirable.
Haptic Persuasion Haptics are the sense of touch, and give individuals the ability to explore and manipulate certain tasks, haptically optimised media is more memorable and grabs the consumers attention, then resonating with them. 40% of our brain is preoccupied by haptics (Print Power, 2018) and the sense of touch provides a sense of truth to the reader - high quality paper stock will resonate with the reader by using structure, shine, weight and texture makes the product more aesthetically pleasing and enhance the readiness to buy. Olaf Hartmann, author of Touch! sensory marketing book - stated that “By making a magazine or a product look and feel more premium, and you succeed in getting people to touch it more often, that will reflect in sales figures straight away� (Print Power, 2018). Once consumers have picked up a product, they are already more likely to purchase, so creating a product that is attention-grabbing and urges consumers to touch enhances the chance of sale.
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Trust the Content
81% of readers trust the content they read in printed magazines - considering the modern day hussle of fake news media, 81% is relatively high. News has always been criticised in the past and present for being fabricated, falisfied and biased (McNeil, 2018) which has resulted in the 19% of readers not trusting the content they are reading. The overhaul of online articles could be to blame as journalists are seeing an increase of quanitity, fake news catches attention and can result in more clicks than competitors by making their articles stand out. To gain the trust of the entire audience, publications need to be more authentic and transparent - most readers are unaware of the process behind journalism, opening up the process of research behind articles gives the opportunity for readers to then delve deeper into the information they are provided. Articles need to be diverse - readers are more likely to trust and grow a strong relationship with printed media if they feel reflected in the articles they are reading, rather than feeling distanced with unrelatable content. Consistency = Trust. The reader will unknowingly notice if articles and the research behind them are consistent, a strong relationship with the reader is more likely to occur when they know what they are getting by purchasing the publication.
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diary /’dʌɪəri/ noun
A book in which one keeps a daily record of events and experiences. synonyms: journal, memoir, chronicle, log, blog The following is an extract from her diary.
3
An Introduction to The Diary
The Diary is a women’s fashion and lifestyle magazine defying the typical mainstream magazine, pioneering a different kind of publication. Ditching the glossy cover for a unique design, with a focus on the reading experience. The reader is at the heart of the publication, everything is created with a partnership between The Diary and the reader in mind - tailoring all content to appeal to them. The main competition of The Diary includes the popular fashion & lifestyle mainstream magazines, catering towards the same audience but offering an innovative design.
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Women interested in fashion & lifestyle. Age 18-40 EVERYDAY WOMAN University Students Working Women Modern Day Women Mums Mainstream magazine: replacing the glossy covers.
CONTENT:
THE DIARY A PLACE FOR WOMEN TO TAKE A BREAK FROM THE WORLD AND GET INSPIRED.
COMPETITION COSMOPOLITAN GLAMOUR ELLE
FASHION BEAUTY
ALLURE MARIE CLAIRE
NICHE Opposing the glossy mainstreams. +ART +PAPER QUALITY
HOT TOPICS
+GRAPHICS WITHIN MAGAZINE
NEWS-WORLD ISSUES
+VISUAL
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THE DIARY
Entry 01
THE DIARY
Entry 02
Content
The Diary is a mainstream women’s fashion and lifestyle magazine, aimed at 18-40 year old women - reaching three demographic groups: Generation Z Millennial Generation X The Diary’s focus is entirely on the readership and content they will be most interested in, based on characteristics and personality traits. The aim is to provide content that is 100% of interest to the reader - avoiding the reader flicking through irrelevant articles. Having a ground for readership interests is a way of ensuring that content will be received positively by the audience, with topics that are relevant to them by best reflecting the readership.
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Characteristics Confidence Independence
Themes
Articles
Wellbeing, Mental Health, Self Care, Self Confidence, Social Media
Diverse
Diversity, Open mindness
Motivated Ambitious Hard-working
Boss Women, Work/Life Balance
Justice-minded Concious Compassionate
Education, News, Charitable, Understanding
Cancel Culture - Blame Culture Hangxiety - Becoming anxious when drinking alcohol
Inclusivity within the fashion industry - Brands being inclusive for
press. (i.e Only showing support for pride at the time of event)
Successful women within the fashion industry - interviews: Estee LaLonde (Blogger) Martine Alexander (Stylist) Hollie Race (Content/Brand Manager)
Brexit and The Fashion Industry. Fast Fashion - Sustainable Lies.
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GAINING TRUST WITH THE READERSHIP Inclusivity within Fashion, Brexit: Fashion Industry Interviewing individuals who have first-hand experience with the topics discussed will provide more trustworthy content for the readers, as well as interviewing people with opposing views which will result in less bias articles. After each issue of The Diary, readers will have a chance to ask follow up questions to the articles - these will be featured in the following issue of the magazine. READERS TIME WELL SPENT Cancel/Blame Culture, Hanxiety Mental health and wellbeing are topics that need to be discussed in order to open up a conversation, reading these articles educates the reader and can benefit them in everyday scenarios. Bauer Media conducted research into mental health and found that 86% of British people agreed that mental health is one of the biggest challenges facing the country with 90% feeling that there is a taboo around mental health (Bauer Media, 2018), only 36% of employees feel comfortable talking about mental health (Bauer Media, 2019). By discussing mental health and wellbeing regularly, the conversation is opened and the taboo stigma can be dropped. READERS CLOSE CONNECTION WITH MAGAZINES Women in the Fashion Industry, Fast Fashion: Sustainable Lies Creating a close connection with the readership can be achieved by discussing subjects that are important to them. Women in the Fashion Industry will be aimed towards both working and non-working women, with an interest in fashion, those already working in the fashion industry and those inspired to work in the fashion industry by interviewing regular women working in the fashion industry. Sustainability is something everyone needs to work together on, this will create a close connection with the readership and The Diary if we can work together in collaboration to become more sustainable.
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Appendix 1. Magnetic Media Chart