Including: Journal Piece ‘Knitwear Re-shapes The Future & Promotional Strategy ‘More Pleats’
Fashion Promotion 3
Word count: 3,233
Helen Birkett
20029105
Today in the fashion world, the ever-growing trend of sustainability is a big focus when it comes to consumers and brands.It will continue to become a more important factor as people become more concerned for the planet and aware of the damage that the fast fashion industry is creating (Tamturk,2023). Many consumers are fed up with keeping up with trends and have realised that buying clothes does not necessarily make them any happier. They would much rather shop for smaller brands t that are more sustainable and transparent. This is because consumers are more conscious of reducing their negative impact on the environment (Bell&Napoli,2024).
In recent years, many consumers are more aware of the way they shop, especially when it comes to clothes and the consumers have realised a shift needs to be take place and people should focus on supporting smaller and local businesses (Hackenberg, 2021). As sustainability is at the forefront of the fashion industry, ancient key practices could be the key for the development of the fashion industry, examples of this are knitting which has become both popular as an activity for people and a trend within the fashion world. Knitwear has many benefits and links to the slow fashion mindset that many young consumers possess. It prioritizes quality over quantity and lasts longer than most trends do and these types of pieces are timeless and will never go out of fashion (Tamturk,2023).
When it comes to knitting the craft has been practiced in many places all over the world, tracing back to many centuries ago. However, it originated in the Middle East in the 5th century and some examples of early stages of knitting were made from cotton fibres rather than wool with many pieces having Arabic blessings knitted into them which was a symbolisation to ward off bad luck (Bradley, Ross,2017). Time passed and knitting began to spread into Europe from the 14th century and the first mechanical knitting machine was invented by William Lee in 1589 (V&A,2024). This was the kickstart of the development of technology when it came to knitting and the use of factories were slowly introduced.
Fast forward to the 21st century, knitting is still used today as a creative outlet for people, especially since the pandemic. You may think knitting is boring and for the elders in your life , well think again knitting has had a makeover.Knitting has been associated with a domesticated feminine hobby or even linked to a slower pace of life (O’Sullivan,2020). Hand knitting feels very backwards but looking at it from a sustainable point of view where it includes upcycling and options to mend knitted items, which raises awareness of unnecessary consumerism that is currently taking place within contemporary society.
Another reason it is so prominent is because consumers are becoming conscious of their negative impact on the environment (Bell&Napoli,2024). Shoppers are also wanting transparency from brands and want the truth when it comes to where their garments are from, these days brands can be notorious for ‘green washing’. If brands want that opportunity within the fashion market and survive as a whole , they need to be honest and truthful so they can gain a consumer’s trust. All these elements are crucial to lead the way for the knitwear industry to a more sustainable future. Brands could start to incorporate the craft of knitting into collections , especially luxury brands and fashion houses, as they have the right market when it comes to artisans, and it could benefit the couture aesthetic. Fashion houses like Chanel and Dior already used artisanal techniques in their collections and I think it is important that other fashion brands follow in their footsteps.
The craft is currently undergoing a transformation that revolutionises the way knitwear is produced today (Tamturk,2023). Over the last few years sustainability has had a huge impact on the fashion world in which it became a priority for consumers and most brands. So, the origins of knitting have had some production changes to adapt to the needs of the consumer, an example of this is 3-D knitting. 3-D knitting is programmed machines that construct the entire garment into a three-dimensional structure (Shareef,2024). This technology is not necessarily new but has only started to become more accessible due to more advancements with technology and the programming system (Shareef,2024). When it comes to machinery within knitwear it provides unique opportunities for the whole design process where the technology can create large scale amounts of data to predict future trends as well as automatize the process (Tamturk,2023).
By the machines being created it helps to reduce waste as it is environmentally friendly and more efficient. This process is a benefit towards the technique of knitting and will enable its use in the future, as it is efficient, reliable and reduces wastage. There are many benefits to the craft of knitwear, for example, it is incredibly sustainable. By the knitwear industry adopting to sustainability, it will help to reduce its environmental impacts as it moves towards a zero-waste production process as well as the use of sustainable materials. This, therefore increases consumer demand as they are providing sustainable products (Tamturk,2023). As sustainability is at the forefront of the fashion industry, the knitting industry has been emphasising social responsibility and the careful use of their resources and methods, sustainability is not a new approach, but if industries within the fashion world do not evolve alongside sustainability , they risk their survival in the future (Cuden,2023).
So why is it important for the future the obvious reason is sustainability. Brands could start to incorporate this artisan craft into their clothing to celebrate the craft and promote the value of artisanal work, showing the time and effort that goes into it. Knitwear is centralised around craftmanship and personalisation that produces quality garments, which offers a better alternative than consuming fast fashion (Belanger,2023). If more brands follow the footsteps of the craft, they begin to show the consumer the creative potential of knitwear, as it allows designers to push boundaries and create flexibility, personalisation and a garment that lasts forever.
If brands begin to adopt the craft, they can expand their market opportunities as they are open to changing their current ways and creating clothing that meets consumer demands which includes ‘67% of fashion and jewellery buyers say they would rather pay more for an eco-friendly product’ (Connell,2022). Consumers want brands to adapt even further , they value brands who are reliable and innovative. Brands do not need to start over they just need to show their audience how engaged they are with problems that matter the most and what they are aiming to do to combat it (Connell,2022).
So, will you take up the hobby of knitting? Or start to rethink about the clothes you buy, or where you buy them from, little changes will all add up to help the future of fashion become sustainable and help the planet.
The word pleat originates from the Latin word pli which means ‘fold’. Pleating began in Ancient Egyptian times where garments defined tunics of the upper class where the pleating was created by hand, which was a lengthy process. 300 years later a new innovator, Mariano Fortuny invented a specific pleating technique where he created the iconic ‘Delphos’ dress which was made from fine silk (Azzarello, 2021). The dress was created by very fine pleats done manually where there could be up to 450 folds, the dress could be rolled into a ball and still maintain its original shape once unrolled.(Azzarello,2021)
There are three different methods when it comes to fabric pleating, this includes hand pleating with a cardboard mould, machine pleating and hand pleating with cord clamps (Shibori). I will be focusing on hand pleating with cardboard moulds for this promotional strategy (The Satorial Project, 2021). Pleating has become an element of haute couture garments with luxury fashion houses such as Christian Dior and Chanel integrating this technique into collections (Azzarello,2021).
The chosen craft that will be discussed is fabric pleating, in particular hand pleating as it is classed as an endangered craft so it is important to promote. The history of pleating of fabric goes back centuries. Now it is mostly done by machine but there are still specialists out there who hand pleat fabric(Lewis,2021) . The technique uses a pattern,mould and steam to set the pleats, the patterns are made from two pieces of card that are folded and then fitted together. . Then, the fabric is laid between the cardboard folded, then rolled up tight where it will be placed in a steam cabinet to heat the set fabric in place. Once the pattern has cooled the fabric is removed and it retains its shape of the pleats (Lewis,2021). This artisanal craft is endangered for reasons such as increases in inflation and the energy crisis which has impacted small pleating business as well as the evolution of technology and that it can be done by machine now (Lewis,2021).
"I am neither a writer nor a theorist. For a person who creates things to utter too many words means to regulate himself, a frightening prospect."
- Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake is recognized worldwide for his contemporary and innovative fashion as well as fragrances and exhibitions. He made the foundations for Japanese Avant Garde worldwide and was one of the firsts to redefine typical conventions within fashion (Kawamura, no date). He began to introduce loose fitting clothing with no specific construction and very minimal detail for both men and women. His most successful line of clothing is Pleats Please which he launched in 1993. Miyake created a fashion world where he pushed boundaries and reshaped the symmetry of clothes in the aspect of letting the clothes follow the shape of the body and the movement (Kawamura,No Date).He will always be known to be the designer that inspired fashion houses to consider using Japanese influence.
The brand chosen to promote the craft is Issey Miyake , they currently have a collection called Pleats Please that uses the technique of pleating but uses a heat press to complete this process.Traditionally the pleats are permanently pressed before the clothing is actually made but Miyake cuts and assembles the garment two times its original size then folds and sews the material before placing it between the two sheets to start the pleating process (Kuwamura,No Date).
It would be a good idea to promote a sub collection to Pleats Please but incorporate the use of hand pleating instead. This will show the consumers the importance of the craft and how it is used to inform the audience that these artisanal crafts are dying out and luxury brands should try to incorporate them into their collections.
The core spirit of Pleats Please is joy, and what better emotion to wear on your skin every day? – Issey Miyake
Generation Impact : Zillenials, Millennials
Characteristics: Eco-conscious, embrace experiences, slower lifestyle, optimistic, open minded
The dreamers are longing for change especially when it comes to fashion and sustainability and the way in which people consume. They are tired of buying into trend pieces and thinking that buying more will make them happier, they want things that are more niche and not viral. They are conscious of reducing their impact on the planet so want to spend more on sustainable, long-lasting items (Bell&Napoli,2024) They want people to join them in becoming more sustainable and appreciating the craft of artisans and smaller businesses.’ 59% of millennials say they would rather pay more for an eco-friendly version of a product, the highest figure of any generation’ ( Henderson,2023).
When it comes to lifestyles, they are going against the typical traditional milestones that take place in life, especially when it comes to marriage and family expectations, this is not their priority they have tendencies to prioritise personal growth and wellbeing (MediaCulture,2023). Many generations before had failed marriages, burnout, less work-life balance, and the dreamers want the opposite of that; they want to embrace their lives and live a slower lifestyle appreciating the things around them. The dreamers want to experience something genuine and want to remember an experience over a product, it is important for brands to create an experience when marketing to millennials. They are optimistic, they focus on openness and authenticity even in the world we live in they can see the world changing for the better and they are the major drivers of that change (Corley,2015).
With today’s fast paced world, it is common for millennials to yearn for the lifestyle of slow living. They reject the struggle, stress and anxiety that can come with the traditional norms of the faster paces of life and instead prioritise the richness of experiences (Williams,2022). The dreamers encourage people to slow down and appreciate what is around , not to miss out on the little things. They are influenced externally by social media where it plays a pivotal part in their lives in which it influences everything from social interactions to what they purchase. They are drawn to eye catching visuals where brands show their new products in the most appealing way as well as brands aligning their morals with consumer morals such as sustainability and social responsibility, they will more than likely favour them (Vasukam,2023). They are internally influenced by their conscious minds and want transparency when it comes to many aspects of life whether that’s brands or even politics, they are sick of lack of information or reading false news or headlines. Brands will need to be more transparent for consumers to purchase and trust their loyalty (Bell&Napoli,2024).
The target audience would relate to this concept and collection as they are willing to learn new things which they would be - the heritage of artisans, they would appreciate the new collection ‘More Pleats’. The craft can also be relatable as it takes time and appreciation which is what the target audience also strive for.
The objective of this promotional strategy is to educate the audience on the craft of hand pleating and raise awareness to it as it is listed as critically endangered (Lewis,2021). The strategy will tell the story of hand pleating and how it is done and show that it is important to keep these artisan crafts alive. It will target millennials, specifically the dreamers who strive for eco -consciousness, experiences, optimism and change for the better. The name of this strategy is ‘More Pleats’ the name was chosen because Issey Miyake’s ‘Pleats Please’ already exists, so this strategy is a sub collection of that but is solely made by the technique of hand pleating.
The promotional tools that will be used are owned media including website and social media, Instagram in particular. Using owned media, a short film and lookbook will be showcased on both their website for consumers to interact with. An event will also take place at their store celebrating the launch of the sub collection, and instead of the infamous heat press showing their current technique there will be someone showing the technique by hand so the consumers can see how their clothes are made. The aim is to tell a story of hand pleating and why as a brand Issey Miyake should continue to use it to help keep the craft alive. As a brand they value technique, so it works well for them to incorporate hand pleating into their work. The production technique is being celebrated in the strategy, it is important for the target audience to know that the craft is endangered and know the heritage of it to feel more connected to the promotional strategy. To see how successful it has been engagement will be measured of how many interactions there will be with the website and social media platforms.
-Issey Miyake has many sub collections and brands within his main brand the images show some of the examples.
Here are some photographs i found from previous Miyake campaigns i really like the way they have been created, simple yet effective.
This mood board is showing inspiration for my shoot for the lookbook, in particular the poses and the way the model has been photographed.
Inspiration for the shoot including poses, background. I think it looks really effective with a white background.
My inspiration for the make up and hair for the shoot, i found the photo above to the left slightly in a Pleats Please campaign so i thought recreating that idea of a pop of colour would work well for my shoot. I decided for a slick back bun to create that model look and i did not want the hair to take away from the outfit.
This is a mood board for inspiration for the lookbook, -simple
-focus on the images
-minimal
-Black & white photography included
Here are some fashion films stills from Vogue that i watched that have given inspiration for the short film that will be created. They all have one thing in common:
- something is being created in the film, showing the process of how something is made.
- I also found a black and white film which i think worked really well, this will definitely be something that it incorporated.
The main focus on their Instagram will be the promotional photographs from the shoot that will be posted as sneak peaks to the lead up to the launch of the campaign. Social media will help to engage with the consumer and also spark conversations about the new collection.
On the website there will be an added section like their currently is for all the brand extensions of Issey Miyake. Once you click on the ‘More Pleats’ section their will be new promotional photographs as well as a link to the short video to show the consumer how the craft is created.
This will be more like a pop up within the shops that are spread across the world. Instead of a heat press showing the technique there will be someone showing the technique of hand pleating, this is to show the customers the artisanal technique and a way to show them how the collection pieces are made.
There will be a short film that it uploaded on the website to show how the craft of hand pleating is made, this will engage the consumers further as they will see how the collection gets made.
The campaign will be released as a Summer collection in July 2025. Before the collection is released, Instagram posts will be released to tease the consumers and make them aware of the upcoming collection. At least 3 photos from the lookbook will be posted over the month of May, 2025, with date of launch and name of collection in the comment box.
During the launch of the collection more images will be posted on Instagram with different images from the shoot as well as promotional images. The website add on will launch with the links to the lookbook and film.Instagram stories of links to the film will get posted in hope the consumers will engage with and learn about the new collection.
Once the collection has launched the month after there will be an ongoing pop up in flagship stores worldwide where one hour a day an artisan will be sat doing the craft of hand pleating , this will show how the collection is made. The pieces the artisan will create will be available to purchase as one -off items in the collection.
Look 1-Close ups
-. I tried some in black and white to see what they looked like as well and they have come out really good too.
i think the white background really makes the poses and model really stand out. Overall, these photos have come out better than i expected.
I wanted to try and capture the movement of the skirt but it was harder than i thought it would be to get the skirt how i wanted in the actual photograph.
For the final look i wanted to use colours and patterns that are similar to Miyake. I wanted to re- create one of the inspiration photographs where the model was sat on a bench.
These are the posts that will be posted pre launch , teasing the consumer about the up coming launch.
These are the posts that will be posted during the launch , celebrating the new collection.
Here is some experimental logos i created, i wanted to keep it simple and similar to the original Pleats Please logo. I also experimented with a logo above, using a safety pin and having pleated fabric draping over it but decided it was too much. ORIGINAL LOGO
This the website i created for the new collection which will be accessed via the main Issey Miyake website..
Click the link below:
https://morepleats-isseymiyake.my.canva.site/
There will be an on going event that will go on for the first month after the launch at a time slot each day of the week.. In all the flagship stores worldwide, there will be an artisan sat hand pleating, showing the customers the technique that is being used for the new collection. In the Toyko store there is a high-tech machine behind a glass wall where artisans are creating clothing for the Homme Plisse collection. The clothing they create whilst there is only one off and are sold in the shop, this creates an excitement for the consumer as they have the chance to own a one off piece from the collection (Blasdel,2019). If the consumer sees how the collection is being made it helps to create an experience for them rather than just the typical shopping experience.
Here are some screenshots of the short film i made for the campaign showing the technique . It is is good for the consumer to watch how it is done as it will help them to engage with the collection and even learn something too.
Here below is the link for the short film ‘More Pleats’
https://mmutube.mmu.ac.uk/media/Issey+Miyake+%E2%80%98
More+Pleats%E2%80%99/1_vrjzgtky
Link to the Lookbook for More Pleats
https://www.canva.com/design/DAGCC5y39WM/ YYrbhOaOmrJAsh-FJG38AQ/view?utm_content=DAGCC5y39WM&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link&utm_source=editor
The promotional strategy overall is to teach the consumer about the craft of artisans and the craft of hand pleating, as well as celebrate the craft and keeping it alive. This strategy has shown the importance of artisans and ensuring the fashion industry keeps these crafts alive.The consumer will appreciate this collection as time is taken to create it which they look for when buying clothing. They also appreciate the slower aspect of the time it takes and the skill too. I am happy with the outcome of this promotional strategy and i think that it reflects the brand of Issey Miyake and the two collaborate nicely together.
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Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at https://pin.it/6BwCtEEf6 [Accessed 20th March 2024]
Figure 54- 58
Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at https://pin.it/3QtsMb59V [Accessed 22th March 2024]
Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at https://pin.it/smGpDqhdD[Accessed 22th March2024]
Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at https://pin.it/5ozCmY3is [Accessed 22th March 2024]
Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at https://pin.it/679C1Buku [Accessed 22th March 2024]
Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at https://pin.it/4lPDx3XmE [Accessed 22th March 2024]
Figure 59:Pinterest (2024) [image] Available at on Twitter (pinterest.co.uk) [Accessed 23rd March 2024]
Figure: Atopos [image] Available at The Issey Miyake Pleats Paper Dress Donation 2008 / Ato-pos [Accessed 25th March 2024]
Figure 60-62
Issey Miyake (2024) [image] Available at The Official ISSEY MIYAKE Online Store | ISSEY MIYAKE UK [Accessed 5th April 2024]
Figure 63: Issey Miyake Brings his Signature Pleating Machine to Tokyo – SURFACE (surface-mag.com) [Accessed 17th April 2024]