Fervent Effervescence

Standout Holiday Sparkling Wines

As the holidays are upon us, the twinkle of bubbles in a glass become the mainstay of our wine affections. In this edition, we will branch out beyond the reaches of Prosecco and Champagne to find characterful, wonderfully charming examples to bring your holiday experience to the next echelon.

All of our examples are made in the traditional method — that is, in the same way that Champagne is made - to express the true potential of the grapes of the respective regions. We compare and contrast their qualities with the legendary French benchmark, as our compass, but each has its own direction it is travelling.

2019 LIGHTNING ROCK CANYONVIEW VINEYARD BLANC DE NOIRS BRUT NATURE

Summerland, Okanagan Valley, BC

The Canyonview vineyard fruit specifically that I have had the luxury of tasting, in still and sparkling form many times over the last decade, is truly a special place. The Pinot Noir grown here and used for this wine is some of the most expressive in the Okanagan, if not beyond.

Having had the pleasure to visit Lightning Rock several times over the past couple of years to survey the vineyard and taste with winegrower Tyler and owner Ron, it is obvious the winery is a passion project more so than simply a business venture, as so many Okanagan wineries unfortunately now are. The name of the game here is sustainability and minimal intervention — letting the terroir whisper its secrets in the bottle.

With this terroir to work with, and winemaker Jordan’s passion for sparkling, it is no wonder their sparkling wines are exceptional. The 2019 Blanc de Noirs is 100% whole cluster Pinot Noir, unfined and unfiltered, with minimal sulphur added. This produces piercing vibrancy and focus, showing crisp red apple skin, rhubarb, grapefruit, and a dash of bergamot.

This is a sparkling wine that will suit the classic flute admirably!

WINERY DIRECT, $40

www.lightningrockwinery.com

NV ENRICO GATTI FRANCIACORTA BRUT

Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy

Franciacorta is a region tucked in between Milan and Verona in the northern reaches of Italy and is rarely mentioned in most wine atlases to any great depth. True, Prosecco is king when it comes to sparkling in the country — and the shadow it casts is far reaching. However, the Franciacorta region produces a serious traditional-method wine from mostly the same Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.

Notably warmer and with glacial sand and silt for soil as opposed to the chalky limestone of Champagne, the fruit shows a much riper profile in this seductive example made with 100% Chardonnay. Aged on its lees for 24 months lends a heavy brioche character to this wine, yet the ample acidity keeps this on a narrow track to balance.

Admittedly at odds with party goers who prefer flutes, I challenge you to let this warm in a regular table wine glass to near room temperature and enjoy it with little effervescence left. It will reward you with a broad, complex delight. Recently at a dinner party this method was tested — not without an ample amount of nerves, mind you — and the results were a revelation to those in attendance.

FINE WINES BY LIQUOR SELECT, $48

www.liquorselect.com

NV BRÜNDLMAYER BRUT ROSÉ

Kamptal, Austria

Willi Bründlmayer is well known to be one of the best producers in Austria, also contributing to the esteemed Schloss Gobelsburg in the same region of Kamptal. Despite his notoriety, this is not an obvious region for producing quality sparkling wines. But if one looks closer, Kamptal has noticeable parallels with Champagne — a chalky soil base and a climate suited to producing mineral driven and high acid grapes.

Sekt (as sparkling is called around these parts) has long had a general reputation of, ahem, lacklustre quality shall we say. Base wines were produced all over Europe then “fizzified” in Germany or Austria. However this has seemed to energize current winemakers in the country to prove this to be an artifact of the past. This bottle here particularly is of dizzying quality.

A blend of Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, and Zweigelt, this is an extraordinary experience that leaves you asking more questions of your palate than it can answer. Vibrant field berry pastry and hazelnut are joined by ruby red grapefruit and smoke — a lively dance between the fine and the broad components.

Whether served in a flute or table glass, this should be a smash with your holiday party goers.

CRESTWOOD FINE WINES, $60

www.crestwoodfinewines.com

WORDS BY CHRIS BODNAR