The Richness of Cognac

WORDS BY MARCIA J. HAMM

Located north of Bordeaux, in western France, the region of Cognac has a long and rich history of spirit production. And while houses here have been making world class brands for centuries, it is the Dutch who had a hand in creating Cognac as we know it today. In order to preserve wine on its long journey from France to Holland, the Dutch applied heat to distill it and called it brandwijn (meaning “burnt wine”) which became known around the globe as brandy.

Cognac is brandy created from distilled grapes found in the region. The most common are ugni blanc, colombard and folle blanche. The resulting distillation is a clear spirit called eaux-de-vie (water of life). The master distiller will select various eaux-de-vie to represent the style of their house. These spirits are then put in a barrel to age to obtain their colour and distinct flavour profiles.

Letters on bottles of Cognac refer to the age and quality of what is inside: VS (Very Special), aged for at least two years; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), aged for at least four years; and XO (Extra Old or Napoleon), the highest quality with aging for at least six years (but often much longer). The term VSOP was first used in the British Royal Court in 1817 but was soon dismissed. The House of Rémy Martin brought the term back to life in 1927 during their rebuilding from near bankruptcy. Today this house is one of the four largest Cognac houses.

Rémy Martin is not the oldest house (est. 1724), but the name commands attention along with the other “Big Four” of Hennessy (est. 1765), Martell (est. 1715), and Courvoisier (est. 1828). The oldest house was established by Philippe Augier in 1643, but was purchased in 2013 by Pernod Ricard, a large wine and spirits company. As the 400th anniversary of Augier approaches, the return of this brand into the market might be forthcoming.

Cognac is a type of brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac. Like other specialty food and drink, there are a series of rules attached to production. Unlike Champagne, which must be bottled within the region, Cognac can be bottled anywhere, however, the rules for approved grape varieties, distillation and maturation must be observed.

Despite the freedom to do this, Cognac houses realized that by bottling at their own distilleries, they would retain the flavour profile of the house. Cognac can contain brandy from up to 100 different barrels and boast an age of up to a century old. As glass is inert, once bottled, the aromas and flavours would remain as the master distiller intended. These bottles will command very high prices and can sit on a collector’s shelf for decades. Additionally, glass bottles became marketing tools and were essential to the brands of each Cognac House—inadvertently shaping the French glassmaking industry.

Remy Martin celebrated 300 years in 2024, releasing several limited edition bottlings for the occasion, including Coupe, an exceptional blend of the highest quality, meticulously selected eaux-de-vie that will never be produced again.

Hennessey has a storied history, and the legacy is known worldwide. Collaborations of famous names and organizations have added additional collectability to the brand. From VS to XO, all styles are readily available.

D’ussé is the brainchild of Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter, an American rapper and entrepreneur. The unique bottle shape and Cross of Lorraine logo makes it stand out on shelves, and the brand represents the juxtaposition of past and present—respecting traditional production whilst embracing innovation.