4 minute read
PLAY IN THE PARK
Each year our staff are given an extra day off to enjoy the National Park that they live and work in. This year Neil, our in-house photographer, chose to kayak along the North Pembrokeshire coast from Newport to Cardigan.
After a relaxing break we packed up and continued on. This is where the coastline gets very interesting with lots of arches, caves and one very special place, The Witches Cauldron.
The summer months had gifted us with some fantastic weather this year and I was excited to learn it was set to continue throughout August, especially as I had made plans to meet an old friend on his visit to Pembrokeshire. What better way to catch up then spending the day kayaking some of the best coastline in the world?
With a settled forecast and favourable tides, I decided that we would explore the North Pembrokeshire coast from Newport to St Dogmaels near Cardigan. This stretch of coastline is quite a committing trip as there are very few places to get out, so should only be attempted in good conditions. With it being a shallow bay, sea conditions can change very quickly and can become quite challenging if the weather changes unexpectedly, especially at the headland of Cemaes. Saying that, it's an awesome coastline with the highest cliffs in Pembrokeshire (reaching 550 feet) and is home to a wide variety of bird and marine wildlife.
Stretches of isolated rocky beaches are home to large numbers of Atlantic grey seals and you can often see the seal pups when they are born from August to October. A good place to see them is from the coastal footpath near Cemaes Head, make sure you take binoculars.
We met at Newport Sands where there is a large car park, small cafe and public conveniences. Unloading the boats, we changed into our paddling gear and checked that we had the correct safety equipment; VHF, mobile phone, flares and personally I carry a PLB, a location device to be used when in trouble. We carried the kayaks down to the waters' edge and took in the surroundings, taking a deep breath of sea air.
Setting off from the beach, we headed to our first headland where we would turn east and follow the coast. Headlands can be tricky places as the tidal movement here can become confused in certain conditions and tidal flows can be very strong, so it's always best to plan your trip around this and if in doubt, seek out some local knowledge.
Immediately turning the first corner, you can see the coastline stretch ahead of you as you leave the busy beach behind. There are plenty of channels between the rocks in which to explore and picking your way through the fallen boulders is really good fun. The sea was glassy smooth and the sun was shining, it was breathtaking. We continued on past large flocks of gulls gathered on the rocky outcrops; we heard curlews and kittiwakes. We passsed many rocky beaches where you'll often see seals lying on the rocks, basking in the sun, digesting their last dinner.
About 2 hours into the paddle, we could see a space to land just before the next small headland. This is one of my favourite places as it's secluded and can only be reached by sea. Stopping for lunch, we looked back along the coast; I couldn’t resist having a swim too.
After a relaxing break, we packed up and continued on. This is where the coastline gets very interesting with lots of arches, caves and one very special place, The Witches Cauldron. This is a collapsed cave so you have to paddle into the long gulley of the cave entrance and out towards an enclosed beach where there is also a waterfall. We spent some time here as it's a magical place and shouldn’t be rushed.
Leaving the cauldron we headed towards Ceibwr, (the only get-out spot on the entire stretch of coast) but not before passing through a narrow dark tunnel about 50 metres long, which cuts through the cliff and out the otherside. Wow. Next stop Ceibwr, a small rocky beach where the coastal footpath drops down to sea level.
With the excitement of seeing Cemaes Head, we didn’t stop for long and continued our journey. Here the cliffs climb steeply and you can witness the incredible geological forces that have shaped this coastline.
Seals appeared and started to take an interest, following us for some distance. Sometimes the juvenile seals will come right up to your kayak, they are very inquisitive at this age.
Next, we passed Cemaes Head and we could see Cardigan Island ahead of us across the bay. We decided to pay it a visit. Cardigan Island is small but amazing to explore; this is also a good place to catch sight of dolphins that feed in some of the tidal flows here. A quick circumnavigation of the island and we could see in the distance, one more stop ahead before finishing...The Webley Hotel, where a pint awaited us, not before exploring the caves and channels that run below Cardigan Farm Park.
Entering the estuary, we could see a perfect landing spot just below the hotel with a very short walk into their sundrenched beer garden, bliss. After enjoying a refreshing pint and bag of crisps, it was time to continue the last couple of miles up the estuary to St Dogmaels, where my friend was staying. The whole trip was around 29km and was utterly stunning. It was also a great day to catch up and plan more future paddles.
Perchedon the outskirts of one of Pembrokeshire’s most boutique holiday destinations is Awel Y Mor, a charming bungalow with exquisite sweeping sea views across Newport Sands and the River Nevern. Here you’ll be within walking distance of a whole host of activities and amenities.
When it comes to playing in the park, the possibilities are endless. The sands you can see from the property are easily reached so make sure to pack your wetsuit, bathers and beach towels. Surfers flock to this long shoreline whilst paddleboarders prefer the smaller slipway at Parrog Beach to launch. Enjoy bathing and kayaking here in Newport or head to one of the smaller coves of Pwllgwaelod and Cwm Yr Eglwys for more sheltered bays.
You’ll also find these shores sprinkled with fishermen, so a spot of morning angling might be right up your alley. The Coast Path can be picked up along any of these locations; if you do go for a ramble, you’ll be rewarded with farreaching views over the oceans and sightings of rare seabirds, porpoises - perhaps even a dolphin or two.
The quiet cul-de-sac location where you’ll find Awel Y Mor promises a restful retreat from daily life, with several idyllic outside spaces to soak up the holiday vibes. To the front, a paved terrace and to the rear, an enclosed garden with raised lawn and impressive sea views. Large windows create a light and airy home inside, furnished with contemporary decor and crisp linens.