Ripe Dahlia: Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets

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PACIFIC NORTHWEST CUISINE | 8 SEATTLELITE TRADITIONS | 20

ARTISANAL CIDER | 32

SELLING A FOOD HOLIDAY | 44

Rustic, Artisanal, Authentic Cuisine of the Pacific Northwest

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CONTENTS

WINTER 2016 ISSUE NO.1 VOL.1

FEATURED

Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets Quarterly Publication Send submissions to 74 King St, St. Augustine, FL 32084 For questions, contact Michelle Henning Phone: (386) 453-1351 Email: MHenning298@flagler.edu

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The Unique Cuisine of the Pacific Northwest Celebrate the unique, delicious cuisine based on the abundant resources provided by the beautiful landscape of the Pacific Northwest. BY BETHANY JEAN CLEMENT / PHOTOS BY JOHN LOK

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O N T HE C O V ER

Worth Its Salt Farmer’s Market: University District BY CHRIS CURTIS

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Ripe & Ready Winter 2016 Report BY MILLIE SMITH

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Vendor Feature Lowercase Brewing BY MIKE RIZZO

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Wine & Dine Wine Pairing for the Holidays

BY DINO ROUSSIA

Rustic, Artisanal, Authentic Cuisine of the Pacific Northwest COVER PHOTO BY LEW ROBERTSON

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Why Artisanal Cider-Makers Hate the Fizzy Stuff Sold in Six-Packs Hard Cider is like fine wine and craft beer in many ways, yet a unique beverage all on its own. Pick up on the international trend of enjoying cider this holiday season. BY ADRIENNE SO


CONTENTS

Welcome to the first isue of Ripe Dahlia! Editor In Chief Michelle Henning mihenning8@gmail.com 3864531351 Senior Art Director Mark Rayburn MRayburn559@gmail.com 3869521342 Junior Art Directors Jess Bloomington JBloomington21@yahoo.com 3865897694 Janet Bronson JBronson91@gmail.com 3104428963 Designers Sally Mansfield SMansfield@gmail.com 3527737893 Picture Editor Pancho Rivera PRivera339@Flagler.edu Copy Editor Rocco Pirreira RPirreira339@Flagler.edu Production Manager Yuki Sanboro YukiSan@hotmail.com 7765589478

Named after the official flower of Seattle, Ripe Dahlia is the magazine for the seven Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets. Time flies by during the holiday season, so Ripe Dahlia aims to bring back rustic, farm-fresh simplicity so that readers can make better-informed food decisions more easily, ultimately spending more time enjoying meals with family and friends. Our cover story on the unique cuisine of the Pacific Northwest highlights the strong farm-chef relationships in Seattle that bring life to the culinary scene of the city. Exploration of holiday traditions across cultures broadens understanding of the holiday season and what it means to others while specific dates, times, and locations for these events get you involved in the true Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Market fashion. By better understanding the winter season, readers gain a certain joie de vivre that renews interest in not only meals and produce but also involvement in the Seattle community and all its quirks. Trusted experts featured in the Ripe & Ready report and the Wine & Dine columns provide insight into niche markets that are designed to stimulate your culinary instincts, while the financial column helps make it all possible. So sit back, relax, and flip through the pages of this uniquely Seattle publication. Hopefully somewhere within the pages you will find great food, interesting perspectives, unique traditions, and a grand sense of adventure to explore the incredible things that Seattle has to offer.

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Happy Holidays: Seattlelites’ Lesser Known Holiday Traditions While many may be caught up in the Christmas monopoly, there are many other holiday traditions celebrated in the diverse city of Seattle. BY CLARE MCGRANE

Selling a Food Holiday Selling Thanksgiving in Popular Culture: Examing Why Christmas Overshadows Thanksgiving in Mainstream Media

BY LENIKA CRUZ / PHOTOS DANNY HARLE

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Worth Its Salt University District

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Photograph by Ross Reynolds

Farmer’s Market Feature:

UNIVERSITY DISTRICT

U-DISTRICT

Get to know one of the most well-known farmers markets

5031 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105

in the country through the eyes of the Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets executive director, Chris Curtis. U-District is one of the seven food and farm-only farmers markets of the Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets. BY CHRIS CURTIS, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF THE SEATTLE NEIGHBORHOOD FARMERS MARKETS

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Open Saturdays 9AM - 2PM YEAR-ROUND


Worth Its Salt University District

On the unique aspect of Washington state agriculture:

On what makes the market special: It’s the oldest in our network of markets and it’s also the largest. It has the largest number of farmers participating every week, and certainly some of the biggest variety of farm produce and farm products. It has a national reputation and is often singled out as one of the top ten farmers markets in the country, so we’re very proud of that. This time of year, we see about 5,000 shoppers per week.

On the hardiness of her sellers and shoppers: The market is year-round - it ’s every Saturday rain or shine - in every kind of weather.

On the effect of an early spring: I’ve been organizing markets for 22 years, and this year has been the earliest, driest, sunniest spring that I can remember, so consequently we have more great, fresh food on the farm tables than we have had in the past. It’s a great year for farmers and a great year for our markets.

[Sellers] come in from all over Washington state. Some of them drive great distances, but most of them are farming in Puget Sound. Washington state is divided by a mountain range so the terrain and climate and soil in Puget Sound is quite different than what’s grown on the eastern side of the state. Most of our farmers are coming from the Puget Sound area but we still do get all the yummy tree fruit that comes from eastern Washington, you know, cherries and peaches and what we call “hot weather crops,” eggplant and peppers and things that grow in a warmer, drier climate.

On what’s in season right now:

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We are seeing wonderful strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, marionberries, gooseberries. We really do have quite the compliment of berries, and Puget Sound is kind of known for wonderful, wonderful berries. And right now, they’re all either out on the farm tables or coming in within the next couple of weeks. Eastern Washington fruit is also really showing up on the farm tables and right now we’ve got many different varieties of cherries. We also are starting to see apricots and also the first peaches. And, again, it’s unheard of, we probably wouldn’t see peaches probably for another month or so, so everything is early, but everything’s really

SEATTLEFARMERSMARKETS.ORG


Worth Its Salt University District

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healthy and large, and good sugar. You need sun and warmth for things to get full sugar here in Washington state, and the flavor of the fruits that are coming in is really, really good.

On how to choose the best produce: We really, really pride ourselves on bringing in the very best quality. That ’s something that we do ourselves by doing farm visits and knowing the best farmers and the best products. Going to a farmers market will give you your absolute best opportunity to buy the best quality from

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the most farmers, so right there, you’re already kind of ahead of the game. It’s better than going to [a typical grocery store]. What I tell people to do is take a really good walk around the market, and then walk around again, and just make mental notes about the price, because of course, there will be some variation in the price. And your eye can spot quality: are they plump, and firm and don’t have blemishes? Are they looking as beautiful as they possibly can? And what ’s really, really nice at the farmers market is that most farmers are sampling, so you can actually taste that cherry that you are about to buy.


Worth Its Salt University District

Unique at U-District Farmers Market: Produce you won’t find anywhere else.

Quail, duck & goose eggs Japanese heirloom greens and vegetables from Mair Farm Taki Locally made cider beer, brandy and non-acoholic beverages like kombucha and ginger tea

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Over 20 varieties of unusual and heirloom apple varieties

Wild Mushrooms The best from local foragers; truffles, chanterelles, porcini, cauliflower, lobster

Goat’s Milk Laundry Detergent from Growing Things

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

The Unique Cuisine of the Pacific Northwest In a time of holiday cheer and celebration, why not celebrate the unique cuisine that our beautiful landscape provides?

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

The Unique Cuisine of the Pacific Northwest WRITTEN BY BETHANY JEAN CLEMENT

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arm-to-table has been repeated into preciousness, headlining news releases and printed in faux-letterpress type onto countless menus across the land. But for Seattle’s award-winning chefs, the farm is neither gimmick nor abstraction. Even local mogul Tom Douglas, with a dozen-plus restaurants and counting, has Prosser Farm: Three hours southeast of the city, it’s helmed with joy and frustration and sweat by his wife, Jackie Cross, who actually wears overalls. Likewise, fishing and foraging in the Pacific Northwest aren’t lifestyle choices, but part of lives, learned early and held dear. If you’re a newcomer here and you love food, you’ve been startled by what our chefs have fed you — by its aching freshness, by its reverent treatment, by its pure goodness. At its best, isn’t this better eating than anywhere in the world? If you’ve been here all along, hearing the stories and eating the food, with increasing elation — watching things grow — you have the answer to that question, and it’s a quiet but certain one. It’s not just farm-to-table, forest-to-table or boat-to-table here. What you find in front of you at Seattle’s best restaurants tastes so very, very good because it’s life-tolife: from the lives of these chefs, and the lives of their hardworking suppliers, to yours. This is the cuisine of the Pacific Northwest: ineffable yet specific to this place, both influenced by and influencing those who are lured here by its plenty — or who’ve been fortunate enough to be here all along.

JAMES BEARD,

one of America’s preeminent food writers, grew up in Portland. He left the Pacific Northwest behind, but he did look back — waxing nostalgic about gathering wild huckleberries, reminiscing about summers spent on the coast eating Dungeness crab (“the Pacific’s greatest blessing”) and razor clams (“superb … cooked as simply as possible in order to savor their natural goodness”). He knew and loved our coastline from down past Tillamook, in his home state, up to Grays Harbor. But, Beard wrote of the region in 1983, “During my long lifetime … there has never been a restaurant that glorified the great gifts from the sea, nor the fine vegetables, or the wild mushrooms, or the small fruits or the game.” He celebrated the existence of proto-locavore Washington coast restaurant the Ark as a thrilling beginning: “People have learned more about cooking, they have learned more about eating. They are more discriminating. This offered (the Ark) an opportunity to revel in some of the goodies, not only the fish but the chanterelle and the other wild mushrooms and the vegetables that abound … and have a quality that one seldom finds anywhere else.” Thus, Beard wrote, “There was new imagination. There was new creativity. There was variety and there was goodness.”

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

PHOTO BY JANE KRAMER

Just a few years later, Jerry Traunfeld arrived in Seattle to find a regional cuisine just getting under way. He’d come from San Francisco, where Alice Waters had made a movement out of letting excellent ingredients speak for themselves; he’d been working for the prescient Jeremiah Tower at the storied restaurant Stars. “When I started cooking here in ’86, there wasn’t much,” he says, laughing. “We had a little media thing with a bunch of local chefs about ‘Is there a Northwest cuisine?’ ” He would become part of the answer to that question. When he precipitously became executive chef at the Alexis — after “all the other cooks left” — he inherited the suppliers of chef Bruce Naftaly (who went on to run French marvel Le Gourmand). “He was buying cheese from Sally Jackson, and he was hooked up with farmers on Vashon Island who were growing this wonderful salad mix with like 30 different things in it, and all the different weird herbs,” Traunfeld says. “I didn’t really grasp exactly what he had done.” Traunfeld became the chef of The “There was new creativity, Herbfarm, which during his tenure there was variety, and became the premier dining experience in the Northwest. When it comes to our there was goodness.” regional cuisine, Traunfeld says, “If any restaurant defines it, it’s The Herbfarm … We would use things like lemons and chocolate, but other than that, we were very strict about trying to be as local as possible.” In the early ’90s, Matt Dillon got his hands on one of Traunfeld’s menus from The Herbfarm, the thematically dedicated “A Menu for a Copper King.” It listed, Dillon says, “things like Douglas fir, ingredients that you didn’t see very often. I immediately thought to myself, ‘Wow, I want to work there.’ ” Eventually, he did, and he credits both Traunfeld and Herbfarm owner Ron Zimmerman with showing him what “the landscape looked like through someone’s eyes who was truly hungry, in Washington — like, what can I make to

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

PHOTO BY JOHN LOK

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fill myself here, and also be artistically truly creative?” He now calls it “eyes-wide-open stuff ” — his first experience in “what you would try to define as Pacific Northwest cuisine.” Dillon opened the tiny, DIY first edition of Sitka & Spruce in 2006 in a strip mall, then moved it to a larger location and opened several more restaurants. On his Vashon farm, he grows vegetables, berries and fruit; raises poultry, sheep and pigs; and cultivates oysters along the nearby shore. While his restaurants are emblematic of the Pacific Northwest’s local and seasonal best — and he garnered the 2012 James Beard award for Best Chef Northwest — he is hesitant about defining our cuisine. It can’t, he says, be just “fancy white people eating fancy food in expensive restaurants.” “It’s way bigger than me, and way bigger than restaurants — it’s about culture,” he says. “You know, when we look and we romanticize about places like France and Italy and Japan, those … have been eating that way for a long time. And the restaurants interpret that cuisine … It’s about people.” THE LONGTIME ASIAN INFLUENCE on Pacific Northwest cuisine, meanwhile, has been deepening and widening. Traunfeld’s new restaurant, Lionhead, is Sichuanese. Stateside, an upscale Vietnamese restaurant from chef Eric Johnson, began accruing accolades as soon as it opened in April. Eric and Sophie Banh, owners of longtime favorite Monsoon, just debuted a steakhouse, Seven Beef. Girin, new in Pioneer Square, is another standout, billing itself as “a modern expression of classical Korean cuisine.”

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

Rachel Yang and her husband, Seif Chirchi, moved here from New York, where they met working at vaunted Alain Ducasse at the Essex House. Now running Joule, Reveland Trove, they find themselves on the vanguard of a nationwide Korean-food “trend.” “If we talk about, ‘What is Northwest food in 2015?’ it’s like the same thing as asking, ‘What is American food in 2015?’ ” says Yang. “You cannot define American food as just one kind.” Thinking about it in terms of ingredients doesn’t make it much easier for her: “If I get a bok choy that’s grown locally from a farmer, and I use it, I don’t know if that qualifies me to say — is bok choy a Northwest food now?” But a dish like her geoduck risotto at Joule is clarifying. The geoduck is, of course, local; risotto is Italian in origin; in this case, the rice is cooked in the Japanese seaweed broth dashi. “It has this nice brininess of the sea,” she says. “At the same time, you get this barely cooked, raw geoduck …

It’s good. I love it.”

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PACIFIC NW CUISINE

WHEN IT COMES TO ORGANIC FOOD, Maria

Hines is a pioneer in Pacific Northwest cuisine and a national standard-bearer. Almost a decade old, her Wallingford gem Tilth was only the second restaurant in the country to be certified organic. She won a James Beard award for it in 2009. “I would say the Northwest is ingredient-driven cuisine,” she says without hesitation. “We don’t have a gumbo or jambalaya,” she admits: “There doesn’t seem to be that dish for us to, like, hang our hat on.” But, she says, “I actually moved up here for the Northwest cuisine.” She came from San Diego in 1998. “It’s valid! It just feels not valid. Because we don’t have these dishes that we can say, ‘This is what it is.’ ” What we do have is better than that. “So many beautiful foraged ingredients. It’s amazing what we have access to. I mean, we have the largest species of mushrooms of anywhere else in the world … We’re really close to our ag community … we have so many farmers markets,” she says, virtually aglow. If you worked with such marvelous stuff — with such deserved pride — you would be, too.

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IN HER BOAT out on the Sound, just north of Seattle,

Renee Erickson hands me a can of Rainier beer. Down below, Dungeness crabs make their way into the crab pots. The two-time James Beard award finalist — this year and the year before — is the chef/owner of The Walrus and the Carpenter and other acclaimed Seattle restaurants. She remembers growing up in Woodinville when it still had a field of daffodils at its main intersection. She talks about picking blackberries, her mom’s amazing pie, their garden of peas, beans, corn, carrots and strawberries. She’s crabbed near here her whole life, at the family spot in Spee-Bi-Dah. Sometimes there, she says, a guy would beach his boat and blow his horn, then sell just-caught-and-steamed pink shrimp in paper bags, which they’d eat sitting on driftwood logs. Erickson talks about her life now, how happy it makes her that customers are learning to ask where fish comes from. She knows her oyster farmers on a firstname basis; she met her husband-to-be at a farmers market, where he was working for the Hama Hama Company. She mildly trash-talks our neighbor to the south. “Selfishly, just to gloat, I feel like what we have versus what even Portland has is 10 times better, just because of where we are,” she says. “We’re right on the water, we’re not a river town, we’re the Sound. And the sea is so different. And, culturally, I think it makes a difference.” If we didn’t live in Seattle, we’d have to move here, we agree.


PACIFIC NW CUISINE

“I feel super lucky being here,” she says.

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The sun breaks through the clouds. Every so often, a coho salmon jumps, silvery-skinned, flinging itself into the air like it’s happy to be alive. “I love it!” Erickson says. It’s already so pretty that it’s almost comical, then porpoises start making intermittent appearances in the near distance. Eventually, we pull up the crab pots; the females and the undersized are flung, not without glee, back into the Sound. “Back to eating! There you go,” Erickson tells the reprieved crabs. Out here, right now, the idea of Pacific Northwest cuisine does not seem like an abstraction. It’s all around, fathomless but deeply personal. It’s not hyperbole to say you can almost taste it. k

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Ripe & Ready

Winter 2016 Report

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What’s Ripe & Ready? Winter 2016 Ripe & Ready Report BY MILLIE SMITH, FRESH EXPERT SEATTLE

What does this season have to offer at the Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets? From hearty ciders to fresh herbs and sweet baked treats for the holidays, there’s something for everyone.

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Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme! Learn how to make delicious holiday recipes with these herbs by joining our mailing list.


Ripe & Ready

Winter 2016 Report

CIDER & MEAD • Hard ciders and meads made from northwest apples; hard sparkling ciders – 100% apple base – methode traditionelle • Ciders: Apple, Honeycrisp, Heirloom Blend, Asian Pear, Apple Raspberry, Apple Apricot, Spiced Apple, Cherry-Apple from Rockridge Orchards • Tonnemaker Family Orchards (Honeycrisp, Braeburn/Cameo) • Apple cider from Martin Family Orchard • Spiced Cider Syrups from Rockridge Orchards

PHOTO BY PATTY WHITE

Wine, Beer, and Distilled Spirits Sweetbread Cellars from Vashon Island Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Brisage, Syrah and Blends - brought to Market by Sea Breeze Farm

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Rockridge Orchards Sweet Raspberry and Spiced Blackberry dessert wines and Tayberry Table Wines. Apple Brandy and Vodka Bainbridge Vineyards Madeline Angevine, Farmstead White, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Noir, Siegerrebe White Heron Wine (Mariposa Vineyards) Chardonnay, Merlot, Arvine, Sweet Roussanne. Wilridge Winery Nebbiolo, Barbera, Sangiovese, Malbec, Pinot Grigio, Viognier Tin Dog Brewing Hand crafted in West Seattle, locally sourced Lowercase Brewing Hand crafted brews with locally sourced ingredients

SEATTLEFARMERSMARKETS.ORG


Ripe & Ready Winter 2016 Report

FRUITS & VEGETABLES • Apples: Honeycrisp, Macoun, Macintosh, Sweet 16, Pink Pearl, Pendragon, Golden, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Tydeman, Swiss Arlet, Akane, Cortland, Bramley

Beets - Red, Golden, Chioggia

• Fresh cranberries

juicing

• Pears: Bartlett (Green and Red), Bosc, Seckel, Comice, English Williams, Purple Goddess, Clara Frijs, others • Asian Pears: Hosui, Chojuro, Hojiru, Shinseiki, Younginashi

Cabbage - Savoy, Red and Green Carrots - orange, maroon, purple, Cauliflower - white, gold and purple Chestnuts - with burrs, or without for roasting

Fava Beans Fennel Herbs - Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, Oregano, Lavender, Tarragon, Chives, Parsley

Wild Mushrooms from Foraged and Found at UD - Fresh wild Chanterelles, Cauliflower, Porcini, Truffles, Lobster. Dried varieties.

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Sweet Peppers - yellow, red, ivory, lilac, and green bell peppers

Peppers - Mild, Medium, Hot and

Very Hot! Shishito, Banana, Jalapeno, Pimento, Hatch, Jimmie Nardello,

Italian Frying, Cayenne, Padron, Zsa Zsa...dozens more!

Potatoes - White, red, yukon, blue,

purple, baking, fingerling, and bags of baby spuds.

Autumn Squash - Butternut, Acorn, Heirlooms, Soup Pumpkins, Jack o’Lanterns, Sugar Pie

Tomatoes - Cherry, Heirloom, Beefsteak, Romas...dozens of varieties. PHOTO BY PATTY WHITE

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Turnips Zucchini


Ripe & Ready Winter 2016 Report

BREADS & PASTRIES Belles Buns - French pastries, Cookie and Cake mixes

Tall Grass Bakery - Artisan French loaves, pumpernickel, rye, hominy; cookies, scones, cinnamon rolls, Danish, and granola.

Honest Biscuits - tender flaky biscuits, all local ingredients, sweet and savory (cheese, sausage, salmon, bacon, apples, seasonal specials). Shambala Bakery - Gluten free artisan loaves made from locally milled ancient grain flours. Breakfast baked goods and pizza dough. Standard Bakery - French pastry, cookies, scones Little Prague - Eastern European style pastries.

NUTS Local hazelnuts from Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards in Whatcom County. Roasted, dried, raw, flavored – also oils, nut butter and flour. Trevani Truffles - Homemade Truffles, Bon Bons and Caramels. Farmers Market inspired flavors. Vegan, too! Jonboy Caramels

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PHOTO BY JACKIE BUCKNER

Join our mailing list to recieve the complete Ripe & Ready Newsletter and stay up to date on what Winter 2016 has to offer: heirloom apples, beautiful brassicas, winter squash, sunchokes, holiday wreaths and more!

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HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

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HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

What holidays have we missed in our Christmas monopoly?

Happy Holidays:

Seattleites Celebrate LesserKnown World Traditions BY CLARE MCGRANE

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Seattle is an ethnically, culturally, and religiously diverse city. It is home to a dozens of synagogues, mosques, minority churches, and cultural centers. But Seattle is in the grip of Christmas every holiday season. A giant Christmas tree towers over Westlake Center. Homes from West Seattle to Shoreline are decorated with inflatable Santas and his twinkling reindeer. Apart from a menorah thrown in here and there, most Seattleites don’t see other celebrations that take place in our city this holiday season. According to a study from the Pew Research Center’s Religion & Public Life Project, 72 percent of Washingtonians identify with a branch of Western Christianity. Twenty-three percent do not identify with a religion at all, one of the highest percentages in the country. The remaining 5 percent identify with a variety of faiths from all over the world. This is about 350,000 people in the state of Washington, who celebrate something other than Christmas on Dec. 25. So what holidays have we missed in our Christmas monopoly? SEATTLEFARMERSMARKETS.ORG


HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

PHOTO BY ANTONY DICKSON

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HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

LUNAR NEW YEAR

The Lunar New Year festival is celebrated in China and some other Asian countries, and has a large presence in Seattle due to our large Asian community. It celebrates the New Year in the Chinese lunar calendar. The date usually falls in late January or early February. The celebration is one of the most important in the year for many Chinese families. “People consider it is an important festival for family reunion,” said Min Shao, a Chinese student studying in Seattle. “For most of the workers, especially migrant workers, it is the only time in a year that they are able to go back to their hometown and reunion with their family.” Shao said it is tradition to clean out homes to remove evil spirits before new year’s day, and to set off fireworks in the first minute of the new year to scare out any that linger.

PHOTO BY ERICA J SCHULTZ

Shao said the festivities begin with a family dinner on New Year’s Eve. During the next few weeks of celebrations, elder family members will give money to children in red envelopes, considered a lucky color in China. The celebration wraps up with the Lantern Festival, when thousands of paper lanterns are lit to decorate cities and towns. Because Lunar New Year is such an important holiday to Chinese communities, celebrations happen all over the world. Seattle’s International District holds an annual Lunar New Year celebration that draws crowds of hundreds to the streets of the International District. The University of Washington Chinese Student Association will also be hosting a new year celebration in 2015, on Feb. 6, and encourage anyone interested to celebrate with them.

WHAT

WHERE

Celebrating the end of the Year of the Monkey, 2016, and welcoming the Year of the Rooster, 2017.

Seattle’s Chinatown International District

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WHEN Saturday 21 January 2017 11AM – 4PM

FOR MORE INFO VISIT THE CHINATOWN INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT WEBSITE AT CIDBIA.ORG

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HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

WHAT Celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ through fasting, community service, and festive gatherings.

WHERE Saint Nicholas’ Russian Orthodox Cathedral 1714 13th Ave

WHEN Christmas Eve Service, Jan. 6; Christmas Day, Jan. 7

FOR MORE INFO VISIT SAINTNICOLASCATHEDRAL.ORG

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RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHRISTMAS Unlike many Western Christian denominations that celebrate Christmas on Dec. 25, the members of the Russian Orthodox Church, and other Eastern Christian churches, celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ on Jan. 7. Archpriest Alexei Kotar, Dean of Saint Nicholas’ Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Seattle, said the preparations for Russian Orthodox Christmas differ from the festive celebrations often seen in the United States. “While you are partying, we are fasting,” he says. He said it is traditional to eat a vegan diet for 40 days before the holiday. During this time, children from the church go caroling to elderly and home-bound members, and church services remind the congregation of the reason for the holiday, Kotar said. On Christmas Eve, Jan. 6, the Saint Nicholas holds its Christmas Eve service.

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PHOTO BY NIKVKRUZ

“That one, everyone comes to,” Kotar said, laughing. The church is so packed the staff sets up tents in the garden to shelter those who can’t make it inside. After the service, the fast is broken with a feast when the first star appears in the sky. On Christmas day, families wake to gifts brought by the Russian Santa Claus, whose name translates to “Father Frost” and is often pictured in a yellow or blue floor-length robe. There is a traditional Christmas morning church service, followed by an even larger, more festive feast. Families and friends gather and take turns hosting feasts and exchanging gifts for 12 more days of celebration. Saint Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral, on Seattle’s Capitol Hill, is one of the oldest Russian Orthodox churches outside of Russia, according to its website. It was founded by Russian immigrants fleeing the Bolshevik revolution in 1932.


HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

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SKETCH OF THE SEATTLE RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL BY JACKIE HELFGOTT PART OF THE SEATTLE SKETCHERS

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HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

MILAD UN NABI

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Milad un Nabi is the celebration of the Prophet Mohammad’s birth celebrated by some denominations of Islam. It traditionally takes place in December or January. The exact date can vary among denominations. Some Islamic denominations do not celebrate Milad un Nabi, believing that it is disrespectful or improper to celebrate the birth of the Mohammad because he is immortal. Others disagree on how and when it should be celebrated. However, many communities and mosques around Seattle will mark the occasion, such as the IMAN Center of Kirkland. Boubacar Diallo, a member of the University of Washington Muslim Students Association, says that those who commemorate the date will focus their thinking on God.

“People gather together and engage in the remembrance of God as well as sending peace and blessing to the Prophet Mohammad,” Diallo says. Celebrations happen in the evening in mosques and special prayers commemorate the occasion. Diallo also said that participants often share food. k

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PHOTO BY ISCC


HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

WHAT Celebration of the birth of the Prophet Mohammad.

WHERE IMAN Center of Kirkland, 515 State St S.

WHEN December through January

FOR MORE INFO VISIT IMAN-WA.ORG

PHOTO BY S.A.W.W. CHILDREN’S PROGRAM

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Vendor Feature Lowercase Brewing

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Vendor Feature:

PHOTO BY BRIAN C. BOSWORTH

Lowercase Brewing

Lowercase Brewing Company first opened their doors back in January, 2014, in South Seattle. Since then, the local brewery has been striving to provide the most drinkable

beverages in Seattle. In this interview, co-founder Chris Smith discusses his passions, the meaning of the name, and his vision for where Lowercase fits in the city. BY MIKE RIZZO, NORTHWEST BREW TALK

I: We’re hanging out here with Chris Smith from Lowercase Brewing. How are you?

CS: Good man, how’s it going?

I: It’s going great. So we’re going to talk little bit about the brewery. You’re one of the cofounders?

CS: Absolutely. Yep. Been around for about a year and a half now, located in South Park.

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One of my favorite questions that people ask is, “Where are you located?” and I’m like, “South Park.” They’re like “Cool!” and then I’ll be like, “Do you know where that is?” and they’re like “No.” So South Park, for those of you who don’t know, is right next to Georgetown, so South Seattle, still in the city of Seattle but the neighborhood of South Park.


Vendor Feature Lowercase Brewing

I: Okay cool. Did you have brewery experience before starting the brewery?

CS: No, I was a home-brewer. I was a home-

brewer for a couple years and then it basically turned into a business.

I: What prompted you to want to get into doing this?

CS: You know, I guess I kind of ended up in brewing by accident. I have a background in culinary arts, so I used to cook professionally, and so I had a pretty good understanding of recipes and how things were assembled. And then I kind of really geek out on the science stuff so it’s a combination thereof: It’s an art meets science piece. I’m originally from Arizona so when I moved to Seattle for my job - I used to work for Starbucks - I decided I needed to learn two things if I wanted to be a Northwest dude: I needed to learn how to sail and I needed to learn how to make beer. So I went after both: I sail now and I learned how to make beer. I started making beer and I knew I always wanted to own my own business but I just didn’t know what it was and so those two things just kind of came together. And so the beer started tasting pretty good and we tried to figure out how we could approach this industry in a way that is smaller scale, right? Which is happening a lot more these days, but I mean this industry has been dictated by scale for a very, very long time. And so now you’re starting to see that breweries can open with smaller scale with a focus on margins versus the capital investment required to start you know 15-barrel, 30-barrel brewhouses. Pretty huge. I: Right, right. So how big is yours?

CS: So we’re on a three-barrel hot side, then we’re on a 7-barrel cold side. We did about 120 barrels last year. And our estimate is that we’ll

probably do about 250 this year. So we’re doubling down, which for us is great.

I: How many times do you brew? How often? CS: Right now we’re brewing about twice a week. So right now we only have about three fermenters, so it’s two days a week for two weeks in a row and then we’ll take a break and then go after it again. I: Where did the name Lowercase come from?

CS: I’ll give you the short story. Basically one of the things that I think that breweries could do a better job with is linking the name of their brewery with the name of their product. To me there is a disconnect. So you may have Steve’s brewing and his brew might be a snowman pale ale. There’s a story there for sure but it’s not accessible to consumers. So I want to find something more that had a theme and so for us the alphabet represents a pretty decent theme and so we don’t name our beers necessarily, they just basically have a lower case letter in the front, and then capital letters after that. So think iPod but IPA. ESB the same way. We don’t have an arbitrary name for the beer; it is what it is. And then the other thing is Lowercase represents a commitment to quality kind of so lowercase letters really just contain content, they’re not concerned with treatment. They’re not slanty, not bold, not trying to jump out at you, literally just trying to communicate a message. And to us brewing should be about the beer and not their branding, not any other external elements. Make awesome beer. And that’s what you should be doing, right? So that’s kind of what the name means to us.

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I: Okay, makes sense. Yeah, if you make good beer, people will remember it.

CS: For sure.

I: So what was the first beer that you guys brewed?

CS: The first beer that I ever brewed, like from a

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Vendor Feature Lowercase Brewing

home brew standpoint, was a clone of Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar. Have you ever had that one? I: No.

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CS: So Rogue makes a beer and they put the hazelnut extract in it and it’s a nut brown, it is phenomenal. If you haven’t tried it you should try it. And so after that, ESB was right up on the list. ESBs were just a beer that I like, I like that red style of beer. It’s not too light like a pale, it’s not too hoppy like an IPA, it hits that middle but it has this savoriness to it like, I try to explain it as like a back end hops. So like if you think about an IPA it kind of hits you with the hops right up front. And then hopefully the body of the beer helps smooth it out on the back end. ESB, the malt hits you first and the hops hit you second. That’s what I really love about that style, it’s so complex and it’s just I: very layered. So that was probably our first recipe that we nailed, the ESB. CS: So when you started home brewing did you start with the extract?

specific signature?

Yeah, I would say our focus at Lowercase is really on drinkability, right? That’s our goal. We don’t aim for beers that are too high in APD or too out there, right? I think there are a lot of cool breweries that do that, but our thing is more like let’s go for those core awesome beers and let’s nail them. So like our IPA for instance is only 70 IBUs which, 10 years ago 70 IBUs would be really really hoppy, but today it’s not very hoppy at all. There are probably some APAs that are just as hoppy as our IPA. We focus on the floral and the late hops, the dry hops for that IPA, so we actually turned a lot of people that come and are like “I don’t like IPAs” Okay. Try ours, okay? Because IPAs can be super delicious and they don’t have to be hop bombs. So you know the Pacific Northwest, we love our hops up here.

“Our thing is more like let’s go for those core awesome beers and let’s nail them.”

Yep, I started with the extract. Because of my background in the culinary field, I brewed I: Oh yeah. two extract beers and I quickly was like this CS: And I love a hoppy IPA as much as the next is not for me. So I went from my first two guy but I also love a beer that I can have two extract brews to my third brew, an all-grain, or three of and not, you know, have to call a I: and then my fourth brew was all-grain and cab. keggy. (laughs) So I was on the accelerated CS: I: Now, going with that, are there any specific plan. hops that you like to use? [chuckles] So if I was going to invest in the hobby, I figured you might as well invest in it, I got a kegerator, I got us a couple of corny kegs, I: and yeah so that allowed me to start to work on my own recipe development really really quickly, Versus you know brewing clones for a couple years. CS: Sure, very cool. ESB, one of the ones that you really like, now do you guys have any

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CS: I’m actually really a fan of the “C” hops. I’m in the classic category so like Cascade, Centennial, uh, we just made a spring seasonal with our red with Chinook, which is a super, almost danky hop, which is great right? Like I love a hoppy red, like a Northwest red ale. We tried making one of our favorite red ales and ended up using Chinook and Columbus. So we ended up using a real dank, piney, resiny, bitter


Vendor Feature Lowercase Brewing

INTERVIEW WITH CHRIS SMITH, CONT’D

right? It’s still letting the hop shine. I’m definitely not into the Citra definitely not into Belma, I don’t really love tropical flavors so I try to stay with those core, florally hops.

I: So that goes back to that you want to brew beers that are drinkable, so you’re not looking at like sours or things like that then?

CS: Nope, no. We’ll do some interesting things from time to time if we have the ability but really at any given time we have five core beers pouring at the tap room plus one seasonal. So we try to cover the bases. We have a pale, trying to cover those light drinkers, ESB for that mid-level malt complexity, we have an IPA for the hoppy ones, we have a brown for the dark beer drinkers, and then we have a Mexican lager, which is not really a lager, it’s brewed with a lager yeast but brewed more like a steam beer so lager yeast, ale-like temperatures, and it produces a nice light crisp result and we call that our Mexican lager because it’s kind of a Vienna-style lager or commercial Mexican beer. I: But again, drinkable.

CS: Absolutely, absolutely. So that’s kind of our game. And something that is just important to us.

So I think you’ve kind of answered your goal as a brewery is to have beers that are drinkable, but I’m guessing you want to grow? For sure, for sure. So one of our goals is to make sure that when you get a tasting tray at the brewery, that all of those beers are good and represent a good style. So there’s breweries that will put out 300 beers in a year and that’s awesome, and some of them are killer, but some of them are probably not so great – it’s experimentation. And so when I think about growth, I want to be in a few years a brand that is embraced and respected in Seattle

but not necessarily outside of Seattle. I don’t necessarily want to have national distribution, maybe distribution outside of Washington state, bu I want to be one of those places that when your friends who drink beer come to Seattle, you’re like, you gotta go down to Lowercase. This is one of the breweries that typifies this area and is important and respected. And that’s kind of what I’m aiming for. So we’ll see what happens.

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Find Lowercase Brewing at their South Park address, 6235 Airport Way S, Seattle, WA 98108, or on Saturdays from 9AM to 2PM at University District Farmers Market.

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ARTISANAL CIDER

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ARTISANAL CIDER

Why Artisanal Cider-Makers Hate the Fizzy Stuff Sold in Six-Packs

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ARTISANAL CIDER

O

n a warm spring afternoon earlier this year, I hiked around Autumn Stoschek’s orchards, which are perched on the steep slopes surrounding her cidery in the Finger Lakes region of New York. The region’s cool climate is ideal for growing cider apples, and dozens of different microclimates, elevations, and soil types produce a huge number of variations in flavor and fruit quality. At Eve’s Cidery, Stoschek organically grows more than 50 varieties of heritage cider apples, harvesting them as they ripen and shuttling them to the cider press located in what used to be her family’s dairy farm. All of her ciders are fermented, matured, and bottled on the premises, the 750-milliliter bottles stored and stacked high in wooden crates in what used to be a barn. It’s a labor-intensive process, but to Stoschek, it’s worth it.

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ARTISANAL CIDER

It’s almost a crime to put Stoschek’s hard cider in the same category as the sweet, fizzy drinks that are currently available in convenience stores by the six-pack. Her still, dry Albee Hill cider recently scored a 93 in Wine Enthusiast; her ciders have been featured in Vogue. Her Northern Spy sparkling dry cider, which sells for around $17 a bottle, is a revelation: The aroma is full and sweet, smelling irresistibly of fruit, but its texture is clean and crisp. It reminded me more of a Riesling than of any cider I’d had before. Many Americans’ first exposure to cider is as the stuff sold alongside beer in grocery and liquor stores. This chagrins fine cider-makers like Stoschek. “We call those ‘soda-ciders,’ ” Stoschek said. Her cider is more like wine in the sense that it has characteristic flavors reflecting the environment where the fruit was grown. And she and other artisanal cider-makers all across the country are struggling to change Americans’ perception of cider. To small cider-makers, cider is a beverage that warrants a higher price than beer and deserves to be sipped appreciatively, not chugged.

Craft Beer Connection

The cider industry has unquestionably benefited from the craft beer boom. According to the Nielsen ratings, which tracks retail sales of large companies like Smith and Forge, and Angry Orchard, the cider category grew by 71 percent in 2014 after growing 89 percent in 2013 and 90 percent in 2012! Growth has slowed significantly in 2015 to 10.8 percent, but these numbers don’t even reflect sales by regional and artisanal cideries like Stoschek’s. Regional trade organizations are only now beginning to track growth statistics. According to the Northwest Cider Association, 64 percent of the cideries in the Pacific Northwest opened within the last five years.* Many of these new cideries, as well as established breweries, have rushed to capitalize on cider’s association with craft beer, with a slew of hopped, barrel-aged, or fruit-flavored ciders that are familiar to anyone who has recently visited their city’s newest, hottest beer bar. There’s just one problem. Many of these ciders are made from dessert apples, like Fujis, or from juice concentrate made from dessert apples, or even from juice concentrate diluted with sugar water. To cider-makers like Stoschek, this practice is akin to making wine from bags of grocery-store seedless grapes, jugs of Welch’s grape juice, or Kool-Aid. ~ It’s just not the same drink. ~ If you’ve ever tasted a wine grape, you know that they’re very different from the table fruit. The same goes for cider apples. Heirloom

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As fine as wine: Cider apples differ from dessert apples, just like wine grapes differ from dessert grapes. Just like in fine wines, fine ciders have tannins that give them a sense of depth in flavor.

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cider apples, like a Kingston Black or a Northern Spy, have different levels of sugar, malic acid, and tannins. Tannins give both fine cider and wine a sense of depth. Without tannins, cider can taste flabby, one-dimensional, limp—and in need of flavorings to mask the fact that it tastes like, well, jugged juice. Why don’t most cideries make cider from cider apples? For one thing, cider apples are hard to find. Until very recently, there was little demand. Juvenile trees take years to produce a reliable crop, and a few varieties are notorious for their small yields. Once the fruit is ripe, you have a limited time frame to harvest and press it, which requires specialized equipment and heavy manual labor. “As a producer, who grows apples, the cost structure and the craft structure is like wine,” said Melissa Madden, the proprietor of Good Life Cider, a Finger Lakes cidery that makes dry, still, and sparkling ciders that cost around $15–$26 per 750-milliliter bottle. “We need people to understand that so that they’re ready for it. There’s a way to make cheap cider, but it’s not based on the agriculture we’re trying to support.”


ARTISANAL CIDER

In contrast, dessert apple juice is abundant and inexpensive. And since many new cider-makers come from the brewing world, this approach is also philosophically familiar. Just sub out bags of malted barley for apple juice, add your hops or what have you, et voilà!

Cider as beer? Nat West, the proprietor of Portland, Oregon–based Reverend Nat’s Hard Ciders, is probably the best-known evangelist for the cider-as-beer camp. “The cider industry has already aligned with beer,” West said. “Wine people don’t want anything to do with cider, while beer has welcomed us with open arms. The vast movement of cider is happening in the context of beer already, whether that’s what we want or not.” West is also unapologetic about using dessert apple juice. “I treat making cider the way a chef would approach making food,” said West, whose seasonal specials include a passion fruit cider made with toasted coconut flakes and Mexican vanilla. “Every chef can get the same ingredients. … What makes one restaurant better than another is the process.” Many cider-makers, like Kevin Zielinski of E.Z. Orchards outside of Salem, Oregon, agree with West about cider’s trajectory. “The current trends in modern cider don’t allow for fruit that’s grown expressly for traditional cider, because “I treat making [the fruit] cannot be obtained at a similar price point” as dessert cider the way a chef apples, said Zielinski, whose would approach Normandy-style cidres (spelled in the French style) are made from making food.” fruit grown on land his family has farmed for more than 150 years. To a traditionalist like Zielinski, even the terminology of modern flavored cider is disorienting. “Sometimes I talk to people, and they say they’re brewing cider. Brewing cider?” he asked me, rhetorically. “You ferment cider, you don’t brew it.” But he’s realistic about the current state of the cider industry, and hopes that a rising tide will lift all ships. As cider awareness grows, the public will appreciate it at different price points. “It’s a shared trade,” he said. “Sometimes, I think people in our industry are rattling swords on one side or the other, but it’s not going to make the other one go away.” I saw a glimpse of what the industry could be at the July awards ceremony for the Portland International Cider Cup. A small, warm, fraternal gathering—“Northwestern” might have been a more accurate designation than “International”—provides ample recognition for all different categories of cider, from English dry to bourbon-barrel–aged. It’s telling that the best in show is a “modern sweet” cider intended to showcase the flavors of dessert apples: the Darby Pub cider from Montana Ciderworks.

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ARTISANAL CIDER

Cider’s Future It’s easy to imagine a future where groceries or beverage stores might have separate sections for cider, tiered by price and organized by region, with bottle-conditioned 750-milliliter dry ciders on the top shelf and more affordable six-packs farther down. Knowledgeable customers might hesitate at a $30 bottle, but understand that it’s worth it for a special occasion. And when you go out to dinner, a waiter might suggest a fine dry cider to accompany your entree. It’s not so far-fetched. After all, the same transformation happened to craft beer not that long ago. k

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Cider and Mead at the Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets: ROCKRIDGE ORCHARDS

MARTIN FAMILY ORCHARD

Hard ciders and meads made

Apple cider

from northwest apples; hard sparkling ciders – 100% apple base – methode traditionelle

TONNEMAKER FAMILY ORCHARDS

Ciders: Apple, Honeycrisp, Heirloom Blend, Asian Pear, Apple Raspberry, Apple Apricot, Spiced Apple, Cherry-Apple from Rockridge Orchards

Honeycrisp, Braeburn/ Cameo ROCKRIDGE ORCHARDS Spiced Cider Syrups

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PHOTO BY JOEL WACHS

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Wine & Dine The Golden Rule

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Wine Advice: Food and Wine Pairing for the Holidays

Dino Roussia’s wine and food pairing recommendations to make a memorable holiday meal. BY DINO ROUSSIA, PHOTOS BY JADE RO

Dino Roussia is a certified sommelier for the Court of Masters in London and certified spirits advisor.

The holidays offer endless possibilities for food and wine pairing. Whether you are preparing a dinner buffet or serving a course-by-course dinner, choose a palate-pleasing wine with approachable flavors and universal appeal to accommodate all of your guests. Food and wine pairing is all about versatility, color, texture and taste. Even though food and wine matching is subjective, there are guidelines to help you navigate some challenging flavors this season to create a memorable holiday treat for your friends and family.

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Wine & Dine The Golden Rule

The

GOLDEN RULE

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The Golden Rule is to pair the food’s

intensity with similarly intense wine, or to pair contrasting flavors. For instance, you might pair the intense heat of a spicy dish with an intensely sweet wine to create a harmonious balance. There is no single specific wine that is the only pairing option with a particular dish.

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Wine & Dine The Golden Rule

Complementary Flavors

Food and wine should bring the best out in each other rather than competing with or overpowering each other. A mediumbodied Selbach Oster Bernkasteler Riesling Spaetlese with low residual sugar will partner well with the sweetness of a honeyglazed ham and enhance its flavor. On the other hand, a Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Estate Bottled Riesling Kabinett from the Mosel region in Germany, with its complex minerality, aromatics and dry finish, will counter the sweetness of the honey for maximum enjoyment.

When it comes to turkey, a fruit-forward California Chardonnay with a light kiss of

oak will be a crowd-pleaser. Red wines are also generally a good complement. A fresh and fruity Beaujolais nouveau is a classic match for turkey. For a more refined wine, try a red Burgundy or a Pinot Noir from King Estate in Oregon; or an Iron Horse Pinot noir from Russian River, Anderson Valley, Green Valley or Carneros. These wine-growing regions offer reasonably priced Pinot Noir of good quality. Typically, the wine has a pronounced earthiness, nice fruitiness, and a bright acidity that shines through. It is light, rich and balanced—a natural match with roasted duck, as well.

 PHOTO BY TINA UJLACKI

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Wine & Dine The Golden Rule

Pie Pairing

The perfect match for pumpkin pie would be a late-harvest Chenin Blanc dessert wine or an Italian Vin Santo. The wines are sweet but not too heavy on your palate thanks to the firm acidity. Port or Sherry wine are good pairing options for pecan pie.


Essence of the Holidays

And finally, Champagne and sparkling wine offer complete versatility when it comes to food and wine pairings, while adding a dose of glamour and a festive air to the dinner. Some bright and shiny examples of great bubbly: Schramsberg, Iron Horse and J from Sonoma; affordable Prosecco from Italy and Cava from Spain.

Champagne represents the essence of the holidays – a time to share stories and celebrate with family and friends while creating memories to last a lifetime.

Wine Vendors at the Seattle Neighborhood Farmers Markets Sweetbread Cellars from Vashon Island

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Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Brisage, Syrah and Blends brought to Market by Sea Breeze Farm Rockridge Orchards Sweet Raspberry and Spiced Blackberry dessert wines and Tayberry Table Wines. Apple Brandy and Vodka Bainbridge Vineyards Madeline Angevine, Farmstead White, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Noir, Siegerrebe White Heron Wine (Mariposa Vineyards) Chardonnay, Merlot, Arvine, Sweet Roussanne. Wilridge Winery Nebbiolo, Barbera, Sangiovese, Malbec, Pinot Grigio, Viognier Tin Dog Brewing hand crafted in West Seattle, locally sourced ingredients Lowercase Brewing hand crafted brews with locally sourced ingredients

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