ASLF Apprentice Storytelling

ASLF APPRENTICE STORYTELLING

Stories have a way of moving culture. Anne Saxelby was an incredible storyteller, and by amplifying the work of American cheesemakers and dairy farmers, she opened up space in the landscape of a culinary world where European cheeses had reigned as standard.

The Anne Saxelby Legacy Fund Apprenticeship aims to give aspiring farmers and changemakers the opportunity to live and learn on working farms, similar to the experiences that inspired Anne as a young person.

We invited the inaugural season of ASLF Apprentices to share about their work through photos, videos, art, and written word. This collection of work traverses urban farming, indigenous food sovereignty work, and some of the most prominent dairy farms in the nation, celebrating the people, plants, and animals who nourish us.

BROOKLYN GRANGE

photos and poetry by Bliss Battle

To work with the soil

Is to create community

To the organisms living within it

To the leaves gathering together to make a canopy For the eggplant family

To the harvesters conversing in the beating Sun

To the farmers chatting with the market goers

To sitting at the table with loved ones

Eating eggplant parmesan

It starts with digging your hands Into the soil

Taking a break in the shade

So sweet

My mind is in complete peace

It feels like

A soft embrace

A little break in the shade

Is all I need

To keep tending to the seeds

And pulling weeds

As the sun smiles down on me

ANISHINAABE AGRICULTURE INSTITUTE

and

by Julie Gonzalez

AGRICULTURE INSTITUTE

excerpts from Medicine for Activists zine

by Caterra Cornejo

On Saving Rural Communities

Madison Taylor

On July 31st, I took a plane from Chicago, Illinois, to Fargo, North Dakota. I’d been sent by the Anne Saxelby Legacy fund to continue the mission of one Anne Saxelby, whose work is best described as “ a conduit of salvation for rural communities across the country” (Jasper Hill Farm) I’ve spent the last month in Ponsford, Minnesota, working for Anishinaabe Agricultural Institute (AAI), an institution with multiple organic farm sites on the border of the White Earth Reservation

On Saving Rural Communities

Madison Taylor

The 90 minute ride from the airport spanned several corn and potato fields, as well as small outcroppings of gas stations and chain restaurants. It’s the same scenery I’d come to know during every grocery store run or dinner outing during my stay Most of our dinner outings were to the same place the only good Mexican restaurant in Park Rapids, Minnesota Vallarta’s Mexican Grill. During the protests against the Dakota Access Pipeline, activists who had traveled to White Earth gathered for frequent dinners at Vallarta's. The staff were always kind and welcoming. It wasn’t much out of the ordinary for me. I’ve taken part in many Midwestern road trips, and noticed only one difference here in Ponsford, Minnesota:

Here, we keep our car windows closed

I’d never thought much before about pesticide spraying. I’d never had reason to But here, we heeded warnings from our coworkers at AAI to avoid breathing in the chemicals they let into the air

Central pivot irrigation systems are found in fields everywhere, often near roads We passed multiple that were

these soil types are very well draining and water soluble chemicals can easily seep into the watershed. Ponsford s soil is mostly sand, and most of Ponsford and neighboring town Pine Point s water table is 10 or less feet from the surface This explains how atrazine gets into water sources enough Biolog the EP as US t imagin Christm they re scienti to, and

to White Earth gathered for frequent dinners at Vallarta s. The staff were always kind and welcoming It wasn’t much out of the ordinary for me I’ve taken part in many Midwestern road trips, and noticed only one difference here in Ponsford, Minnesota:

Here we keep our car windows closed

I’d never thought much before about pesticide spraying. I’d never had reason to But here, we heeded warnings from our coworkers at AAI to avoid breathing in the chemicals they let into the air.

I’d never thought much before about pesticide spraying. I d never had reason to. But here, we heeded warnings from our coworkers at AAI to avoid breathing in the chemicals they let into the air

Central pivot irrigation systems are found in fields everywhere, often near roads We passed multiple that were incorrectly positioned as to spray water directly into the street Pipes mounted to wheeled structures rotate in a circuit around fields in a classic crop circle pattern. This technology boasts praise as high as ending the dust bowl.

d States, despite being banned l has been shown to be an endocrine disruptor with potential to cause nerve, muscle, heart, and liver damage with high exposure The study “Potatoes, Frogs, and Water” details White Earth Reservation citizens’ fight to protect their homes from chemical drift After suing multiple times, citizens didn t have the funding to continue the legal battle with wealthy agricultural giants

Central pivot irrigation systems are found in fields everywhere, often near roads We passed multiple that were incorrectly positioned as to spray water directly into the street Pipes mounted to wheeled structures rotate in a circuit around fields in a classic crop circle pattern This technology boasts praise as high as ending the dust bowl

As for chlorothalonil, the chemical was classified in 1999 by the EPA as a likely human carcinogen and highly toxic to inhale Other dangers include damage to the airways, skin, and kidneys When biologist Teagan McMahon tested the fungicide on frogs in concentrations typically caused by normal application to crops, "Those expected concentr percent m amphibia “ even lev times lower than the expected environmental concentration caused h frogs.” Citizens in frequently sprayed areas have reported seeing dead

With advances in technology, center pivot irrigation is used to spray crops with fertilizer and pesticide laden water. However, chemicals can be blown by wind or evaporate into the air, and are found significantly further from the application site than products applied directly to the soil or foliage of plants.

With advances in technology, center pivot irrigation is used to spray crops with fertilizer and pesticide laden water. However, chemicals can be blown by wind or evaporate into the air, and are found significantly further from the application site than products applied directly to the soil or foliage of plants.

Two of the pesticides applied to crops via chemical irrigation or “chemigation” include chlorothalonil, used to prevent potato blight, and atrazine, an herbicide. The EPA advises that atrazine not be applied to sandy or loamy soils in areas with a high water table, as these soil types are very well draining and water soluble chemicals can easily seep into the watershed Ponsford’s soil is mostly sand, and most of Ponsford and neighboring town Pine Point’s water table is 10 or less feet from the surface This explains how atrazine gets into water sources.

Two of the pesticides applied to crops via chemical irrigation or “chemigation” include chlorothalonil, used to prevent potato blight, and atrazine, an herbicide. The EPA advises that atrazine not be applied to sandy or loamy soils in areas with a high water table, as these soil types are very well draining and water soluble chemicals can easily seep into the watershed. Ponsford’s soil is mostly sand, and most of Ponsford and neighboring town Pine Point’s water table is 10 or less feet from the surface. This explains how atrazine gets into water sources.

Atrazine is also found, surprisingly enough, on Christmas tree farms The Center for Biological Diversity’s 2021 press release details the EPA’s plans to prohibit use in Hawaii, as well as US territories. “The last thing anyone imagines, when they live near a forest or bring a Christmas tree home to their living room, is that they’re signing up for atrazine exposure, ” says scientist Nathan Donley “Now they won’t have to, and neither will the salmon, frogs and fish.”

Atrazine is also found, surprisingly enough, on Christmas tree farms The Center for Biological Diversity’s 2021 press release details the EPA’s plans to prohibit use in Hawaii, as well as US territories “The last thing anyone imagines, when they live near a forest or bring a Christmas tree home to their living room, is that they’re signing up for atrazine exposure, ” says scientist Nathan Donley “Now they won’t have to, and neither will the salmon, frogs and fish ”

The industrial farming industry is not the unknowable and un made out to be. Due to the hard work of lawyers, environmental scien Earth Reservation, we know exactly where these injustices are occurr the crime.

R.D. Offut farms is the nation’s largest potato growing operation and spans multiple states including Minnesota, North Dakota, South Dakota, Missouri, and Wisconsin. After the 1980s farm crisis, Offut pounced on the opportunity to buy land from small farms, and has been taking land in and around the reservation since. Evelyn Bellanger, resident of Pine Point and member of the Elders Indian Affairs Commission says, “One thing I’ve learned the hard way is not to collect rain from the roof into my rain barrels. It turns pink, likely from fungicides.” She describes dead hawks in the yard, absent wildlife, and the smell of pesticide in the air.

But unfortunately, atrazine is not banned in the continental United States, despite being banned in several other countries for risks to human health. The chemical has been shown to be an endocrine disruptor with potential to cause nerve, muscle, heart, and liver damage with high

But unfortunately, atrazine is not banned in the continental United States, despite being banned in several other countries for risks to human health. The chemical has been shown to be an endocrine disruptor with potential to cause nerve, muscle, heart, and liver damage with high exposure The study “Potatoes, Frogs, and Water” details White Earth Reservation citizens’ fight to protect their homes from chemical drift After suing multiple times, citizens didn’t have the funding to continue the legal battle with wealthy agricultural giants.

Offut knows that they’re skirting the boundaries of EPA regulation. Strategic planning of newly acquired land skirts EPA rules and flies under the radar. “Offutt avoided environmental review by temporarily whittling down the size of its project, ostensibly reducing its potential environmental impact and, with it, the need for environmental review,” explains Donald Carr of the Environmental Working Group. In another attempt to fly under the radar, Offut sells land to an area farmer under the condition that he lease it back to Offut and apply for 3 water appropriation permits covering 3 of the same wells from Offut’s application that the Department of Natural Resources previously refused to approve without environmental review.

R.D. Offut and other agricultural polluters will not be allowed to continue poisoning our

As for chlorothalonil, the chemical was classified in 1999 by the EPA as a likely human carcinogen and highly toxic to inhale. Other dangers include damage to the airways, skin, and kidneys. When biologist Teagan McMahon tested the fungicide on frogs in

out AAI ls re near ere es tate sic izer air, o the as

scientist Nathan Donley. “Now they won’t have to, and neither will the salmon, frogs and fish.”

But unfortunately, atrazine is not banned in the continental United States, despite being banned in several other countries for risks to human health. The chemical has been shown to be an endocrine disruptor with potential to cause nerve, muscle, heart, and liver damage with high exposure The study “Potatoes, Frogs, and Water” details White Earth Reservation citizens’ fight to protect their homes from chemical drift After suing multiple times, citizens didn’t have the funding to continue the legal battle with wealthy agricultural giants

As for chlorothalonil, the chemical was classified in 1999 by the EPA as a likely human carcinogen and highly toxic to inhale Other dangers include damage to the airways, skin, and kidneys When biologist Teagan McMahon tested the fungicide on frogs in concentrations typically caused by normal application to crops, "Those expected environmental concentrations caused nearly 100 percent mortality in all of the amphibians " Results found that “ even levels of chlorothalonil four times lower than the expected environmental concentration caused high mortality rates in frogs ” Citizens in frequently sprayed areas have reported seeing dead wildlife including hawks.

The industrial farming industry is not the unknowable and unstoppable evil that it s made out to be. Due to the hard work of lawyers, environmental scientists and citizens of White Earth Reservation, we know exactly where these injustices are occurring, and who is committing the crime.

R.D. Offut farms is the nation’s largest potato growing operation and spans multiple states including Minnesota, North Dakota, South Dakota, Missouri, and Wisconsin. After the 1980s farm crisis, Offut pounced on the opportunity to buy land from small farms, and has been taking land in and around the reservation since. Evelyn Bellanger, resident of Pine Point and member of the Elders Indian Affairs Commission says, “One thing I’ve learned the hard way is not to collect rain from the roof into my rain barrels. It turns pink, likely from fungicides.” She describes dead hawks in the yard, absent wildlife, and the smell of pesticide in the air.

Offut knows that they’re skirting the boundaries of EPA regulation. Strategic planning of newly acquired land skirts EPA rules and flies under the radar. “Offutt avoided environmental review by temporarily whittling down the size of its project, ostensibly reducing its potential environmental impact and, with it, the need for environmental review,” explains Donald Carr of the Environmental Working Group. In another attempt to fly under the radar, Offut sells land to an area farmer under the condition that he lease it back to Offut and apply for 3 water appropriation permits covering 3 of the same wells from Offut’s application that the Department of Natural Resources previously refused to approve without environmental review.

R.D. Offut and other agricultural polluters will not be allowed to continue poisoning our water, hurting our people, and killing the environment. Organizations like Honor the Earth, the Environmental Working Group, and many others are fighting for our right to freedom from harm and a safe environment. I believe that every person has a responsibility towards stopping industrial agriculture s environmental injustices, and I will see the recovery of White Earth reservation and every other community impacted by industrial pesticide use

INSTITUTE

From a series of portraits and interviews with tribal members of White Earth Reservation, answering the question “What do you hope the future brings to you and/or your community?”

“What do you hope the future brings to you and/or your community?”

Portraits of White Earth Reservation

I

to

but other

too.

“I dyed a bandanna using tobacco flowers that we removed in order to help the plant focus it’s energy on growing the leaves. I then tied the bandana in Julie’s (another apprentice) hair and took pictures of her with a tobacco plant. My intention for this project was to highlight the importance of tobacco, but also reflect on the many different ways we can be in relationship with plants. Similar to hemp, there are countless opportunities to receive not only food gifts from plants, but other gifts too.” - KC

Ivan “Chico Brown” Hernandez, Anishinaabe Agriculture Institute

artwork by Ivan “Chico Brown” Hernandez Salinas (left) and Kristie Cabrera (right)

Kristie Cabrera, Anishinaabe Agriculture Institute

order

growing

leaves.

ASLF Anishinaabe August crew: clockwise from top left, Isabel Mosley, Ivan Hernandez Salinas, Kristie Cabrera, Madison Taylor, Caterra Cornejo, Julie Gonzalez

Cheesemaking at Uplands

Isabel Mosley, Anishinaabe Agriculture Institute

reflections by Isabel Mosley (left) photos by Madison Taylor (below)

ASLF Anishinaabe July crew and AAI team clockwise from top left: Dianna Georges, Anvita Sharma, Leilani Barnes, Eli Champoux, Maya Cohen, Kyra Bingham.

Learning Lessons

AGRICULTURE INSTITUTE

art and poetry by Anvita Sharma

A swim in the lake , under the light of the full moon. Black and blue bugs buzz, as the crickets croon.

Each night is illuminated, by starry constellations. While each day begins early, filled with little revelations.

What is it like to work those lands?

It’s seeing dreams, brought to life by many hands.

It’s confronting the fear, of dexterous spiders, buzzing bees, or stinging ants. By remembering what is promised here, in these tender saplings and green plants.

As the four of us pick weeds with hands that care, despite our soreness we are honored to work, understanding the responsibility we bear.

This land is sacred, and so is the water. But pesticides, potatoes, and pipes push for its slaughter.

Those rivers and lakes that bear fish and rice, If they aren’t with us, We’ll all pay a high price.

Through native tradition, art, and spoken word, This more than about the promise of plenty, It’s about reclamation, the planet, and being heard.

a poem by Leilani Barnes

My body swings in delay

As i brace for the drive

Staring out the window

Watching my false assumptions pass me by I guess i imagined it differently

Maybe a farm of dreams

But that picture is pretty privileged

The experience is trying to wake me

Somewhere an alarm goes off

It is loud and sounds like reality

The sunrise ask,

Is it true? Can it be?

Is it a lot harder than it seems?

With my eyes half open I reply, “ we shall see ”

So we must pull out the weeds

And dig really deep

From the land and in our minds

It has been abandoned for some time

If we want to grow

We need to slow our roll

And look past the surface

This hard work is worth it

Water is life

Nothing is more true

It is the basis of me

It is the basis of you

Why are we struggling for answers

While the indigenous have clues

Why do we do a lot of talking

When we should really listen too

Protect these waters

Stop line 3

I should stop pointing fingers

Because it can start with me

Protect the soil

And plant some hemp trees

Protect the children

And strengthen the community

I am here in this moment

I can do my part

Each and every day

I choose to work hard

I am blessed for this opportunity

I am grateful for this farm

A community that chooses life

Over the profit of a man

What's a versatile gift that works well for any occasion?

A farm that fights for what is right

Who gives mother nature a hand

Together they sing an anthem

Fresh flowers!

An alliance as a band

We should listen to their music

And take care of the land

Dear Anne Saxelby

Mahalo nui loa for your radiant shine

Thank you for your passion

And the beautiful gifts you left behind And thank you to her angels Who carry on her dreams While getting me one step closer to mine

With this wonderful opportunity It was truly a blessing A lot more complex than it seems A bridge between academics and experience You don't know how much this means

TikToks by Dianna Georges

restoring the goat barn

decortication

ANISHINAABE AGRICULTURE INSTITUTE

an essay by Eli Champoux

If you told me I would be spending nearly a month on a farm on Anishinaabe land in Minnesota at the beginning of the year, it would be surprising news to me. I have been at the University of Vermont for a year now studying environmental science, sustainability policy, and geography. So it would be surprising, but also sensible after all the things that I learned in my first year of school. However, the experience at AAI was so much more than what was on the website. I had no idea that I was about to enter a whole new world.

I was not ready for life on the farm, and quickly realized how out of place I was. Now when I say out of place, that doesn’t stem from anything negative about the experience. It means that I was a bit of an outsider. A white man from the suburbs of Boston dropped in an Indigenous, rural landscape in the middle of the country. Luckily I would be grouped with some amazing women who also felt like they were somewhat outsiders in this new territory. I want to preface by saying that life as we know it is far from perfect. This journey was a rollercoaster of amazing highs and troubling lows. However, experiencing it with these people helped get me through extended struggles, and ultimately allowed me to find a grand purpose in myself that I will cherish for the rest of my life.

I stepped out of our Jeep onto the dirt-grass road at AAI. I felt the warm air on my skin. I was greeted with open arms by Kyra and Maya, two of the farm’s managers of daily operations. That night was shared with laughs and telling stories of ourselves and I already felt an innate sense of community. From there, we began work the next day. A 15- minute drive out to the Northside hempire. This farm grew everything from hemp, to cucumbers, to potatoes, to beans. Everyday, we performed tasks such as pulling weeds, killing potato beetles, mulching the soil, and various others. It was hard work and often occurred under a hot sun.

The farm crew are some of the most intelligent, hard-working, resourceful people I have had the fortune of meeting. The communal aspect of the farm’s work environment was the key to getting through those long days in the fields, understanding goals of different operations, and keeping the atmosphere fun and relaxing.

After a hot day of farming, the best part of the day came; jumping into Bass Lake. The amazing Winona Laduke suggested that we jump in the lake as often as we could. This always felt like the right way to end the day, and a blessing to feel the water cool down my hair. I found comfort in the lake. Whether it was skipping stones, trying to catch fish with my hands, or feeling the reeds on my legs as I sauntered in. The lake was special and it felt like I had the power of peace in my own mind when I was there.

Reflecting on the experience at AAI, I have to say again that the spirit of the community was what made it so great. At Shell Camp, you felt the vibe of a historical, vibrant and kind group of people. We all shared a common purpose that united rather than divided. I get emotional thinking about the indomitable spirit that humans have, and all that we can achieve while striving for the good. That was the greatest takeaway about my time at AAI, and it made me believe in total good, truly, I think for the first time. It’s easy to get lost and caught up in the cruelty and unacceptable in this world. Thanks to the initiative of ASLF, Anne’s legacy and AAI’s vision, I was able to find my way.

CONSIDER

a letter from Aji Fatou Njie

Aji Fatou Njie, Consider Bardwell Farm

VON

MAD RIVER TASTE PLACE

photos from Gabriella Perez

photos from Jordy Cazales

MEADOW

Flower pressing is like making cheese.

The first step is to collect the flowers and grasses for certain qualities. Just like the cows are picky about which forage they are in the mood to munch on, I am particular about what catches my eye on a hike. Each day’s yield is unique, it may be sweeter or earthier, delicate or brightly colored, and it also depends on what’s in season - and that makes things interesting. Pressing is the defining step. Of course, flowers don’t need rennet or cultures, but they do need to be prepared and handled with care. When pressing, it’s important to set up curds and stems just right; nothing should be poking outside the edges of the press, hydraulic for cheese, DIY for the flowers. Pressure should be as level as possible to ensure balanced moisture release. Then you must wait. Patience and care, folks, is an important ingredient. We wait for flowers to dry out and for cheese wheels to age in the cellars, but also for pasture grasses to regrow after grazing, and for patience with yourself as you curate your pressed flower collage. The final result is a one-of-a-kind piece of art, albeit one is wrapped in cheese paper to be eaten and one is framed to be hung on the wall. But both preserve the nature of a place using a similar process and I find that parallel beautiful.

DAIRY

Collage using pressed flowers and grasses from Meadow Creek Dairy’s cow pastures, cheese paper and recycled paper.

flower pressings, photos, and writing by Molly Pfeffer

illustrations by Margo Miller

JASPER HILL FARM

Cellars Outside,

There is only the sound of breeze grazing the grass. Bales of hay pushed together like curd so that a complete total unit is created. Inside the cellars- operation!

Turning!

Washing on our friend, Gruffy! Then washing Gruffy. Turning again!

Cheese up to the roof- a modern city thriving. A place microbes can call home.

“We were back in the caves today. Started off turning cheese, mostly Harbison and Moses Sleeper. I learned that Moses Sleeper is named after a Revolutionary War soldier also named Moses Sleeper, the same is true for Alpha Tolman apparently. After that I cleaned Vaults 1 and 6. Spiked some more Bayley Hazen. Bayley Hazen Blue was apparently served for Francois Hollande when he visited the White House in 2014. I crumbled some Bayley Hazen Blue into my lentils today for lunch today which was ridiculously good. It gave me a new appreciation for both the cheese and the lentils.”

Lucas Friedman-Spring

poetry and reflections by July Apprentices Jacob Burnett and Lucas Friedman-Spring

JASPER HILL FARM

photos and ASLF Recipe Book by August Apprentices

Sage Taylor, Emma Hamilton, and Evie Fabricant

Anne's Beer Cheese

Nightly view of Caspian Lake in Greensboro!

CHEESE

Inspired by Anne's recipe, we decided to make her beer cheese with Jasper Hill staples including Alpha Tolman, named after a philanthropic dairy farmer in Greensboro. Whitney, the award winning raclette style cheese named after Tim Whitney, the longest standing employee of Jasper Hill Cave aged cheddar and Vault 5 are produced at Cabot Creamery and aged in the Celllars at Jasper Hill. With this unique blend of cheese to create a perfect taste of Greensboro!

Ingredients : Procedure :

2 cups of shredded Jasper Hill

Recipes Inspired by Jasper Hill Cheese and

(We used Alpha Tolman, Whitney, Vault 5 Cheddar and Cave Aged Cheddar)

1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

2/3 cup of beer

used a local brew from Hill Farmstead called Anna)

to taste

1. 2. 3. 4.

Combine cheese in a sauce pan and continuously stir.

Add Worcestershire and 2/3 cups of beer.

When cheese is incorporated and melted, pour into bowl.

Serve with bread, crackers and apples!

M O S E S ' S U M M E R S A L A D

Ingredients

one bag of Black Dirt Farms mixed green

4 slices of bacon from Pete’s Greens, fried Quarter wheel of Moses Sleeper

1. 2 3

Method

Combine vinegar, oil, onion jam, and salt and pepper in a small bowl

Slice apples, Moses sleeper, and bacon strips

Toss all ingredients with the salad greens in a large bowl and enjoy

JASPER HILL Ingredients

Pastalaya Notes

Inspired by finding a package of Andouille sausage combined with Emma's Louisiana roots we wanted to make a dish that combines Vermont cheese and local ingredients with Louisiana spice!

1 package of Jasper Hill Andouille sausage

1 lb chicken breast

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 cups chopped local tomatoes

2 cups of diced Trinity (onion, celery, bell pepper

1 cup chicken broth

3 cloves minced garlic

2 Tbsp Creole seasoning

1 pound spaghetti Shaved Whitney to serve

Method

Melt butter in large dutch oven.

3 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon of olive oil

2 tablespoons of Blake Hill onion

apples confit jam

Freshly cracked salt and black pepper

This dish was inspired by Moses Sleeper, a soft cheese named after a revolutionary war general, and apples picked from the tree in our yard Tossed with fresh greens from Black Dirt Farm, a local regenerative farm, crispy bacon, and a balsamic and onion vinaigrette, this salad makes a perfect summer dish!

1. 2. 3. 4. 5 6. 7. 8.

Add chicken and sausage and cook until lightly browned. Remove from pot, shred chicken and slice sausage.

Add Trinity to pot and cook until softened.

Add shredded chicken, sliced sausage, tomatoes, chicken broth, garlic and creole seasoning to the pan.

Bring large pot of salted water to a boil and cook pasta according to directions on the box.

Bring pastalaya sauce to boil and reduce to a simmer until chicken is cooked through Stir in cooked pasta with 1/2 cup of pasta water and serve with shaved Whitney on top!

NOTES ABOUT HARBISON

N

T A I N A B L E A G R I C U L T U R E A N D F O O D P R O C E S S I N G !

E A R E S O G R A T E F U L T O H O N O R A N N E ' S L E G A C Y B Y

S U P P O R T I N G J A S P E R H I L L I N T H E I R M I S S I O N T O O F F E R A

A S T E O F P L A C E . W E A R E G R A T E F U L T O T H E O W N E R S O F J A S P E R H I L L M A T E O A N D A N D Y A N D T H E T E A M M E M B E R S W H O H E L P E D S H A P E O U R E X P E R I E N C E A T T H E C E L L A R S , F A R M A N D C R E A M E R I E S I N T O A W H O L I S T I C P I C T U R E O F W H A T C H E E S E M A K I N G I S . T H A N K Y O U T O T H E T E A M A T A S L F F O R S U P P O R T I N G U S A N D G I V I N G U S T H E O P P O R T U N I T Y T O E X P L O R E O U R P A S S I O N S A N D L E A R N A B O U T N E W S P A C E S O F I N N O V A T I V E A N D S U S T A I N A B L E C H E E S E . A N D T H A N K Y O U T O A L L T H E F R I E N D S W E H A V E M A D E A L O N G T H E W A Y !

BIG PICTURE FARM

A Day in the Life of a Cheesemaker by Sage Thomason

I did not know much about the process of making cheese when I began my apprenticeship at Big Picture Farm in Vermont. For some reason, I did not imagine that it was a very time consuming or precise activity, but I was quite mistaken.

Cheese making on the farm begins at 9am. Or really, at 7am when the goats are milked. Or more realistically, in the Spring when the milking goats give birth to their kids and begin producing milk. Then, from Spring onwards, the goats are milked every day, fed grain and alfalfa, and then go out to graze on their pasture. Throughout the week, their milk is transformed into delicious goat’s milk caramels, but Sunday is cheese day.

After sanitizing every surface that the milk will come in contact with, we begin by transferring the milk from its storage tank to the large metal vat where it will be heated to the perfect temperature. After heating for a little while, we add the bacterial cultures. Then, the rennet is added which is the agent that makes the milk come together into a curd.

The next step is cutting the curd into small pieces that have a larger surface area and can release more water, allowing the cheese to become more solid. The curd is soft and delicate, and feels a bit like silken tofu at this stage. After cutting the curd, we separate out the whey, or excess liquid, and begin shaping the curd in molds. We move fast at this stage because it is important that each wheel of cheese drains for the same period of time so that the texture is consistent in the final product.

There is lots of liquid leaving the curds at this point and the consistent draining of whey creates a melodious tinkling sound in the cheese making room.

After about 5 minutes, it is time to flip the draining cheese wheels so that the moisture is expelled evenly on both sides. It can be a bit tricky to flip a softer cheese, as it still has a lot of moisture. The alpine style cheese, Sonnet, has less liquid and is easier to flip satisfyingly. After the first flip, longer and longer durations of time pass between the flips as more and more of the liquid is lost. As we wait for the excess whey to drain, we begin cleaning.

At the very end of the day, once all of the cleaning is complete, the fresh cheese wheels are dunked in a saltwater solution that will give the cheese the perfect amount of saltiness. The wheels are removed the next morning and begin their long slumber in the cheese cave. Once in the cheese cave, the wheels will be flipped once a week and the excess mold will be patted off of them with a cloth.

And finally, after 3 months or so, when it is time to try the fruits of your labor, you get to try the best cheese that you have ever tasted.

And finally, after 3 months or so, when it is time to try the fruits of your labor, you get to try the best cheese that you have ever tasted.

Gabriela Sanchez and Sadie Hammarhead with illustrations by Sadie

Sadie Hammarhead, Spring Brook Farm Cheese

NEWMAN FARM

field notes on Heritage Berkshire pig breeding

at Arkansas State University in Jonesboro Ar. and am pursuing a degree in Agricultural Education. Agriculture has always been an important part of my life. During my time as an apprentice I have learned many valuable things that I hope to carry with me into my future career. Being able to take part in this apprenticeship is something I am very thankful and honored to be a part of I am inspired by Annes story and how passionate she was about the thing that she loved.

by Braden Hufstedler

My name is Braden Hufstedler and I am from Thayer Missouri. I am currently a student at Arkansas State University in Jonesboro Ar. and am pursuing a degree in Agricultural Education. Agriculture has always been an important part of my life.

During my apprenticeship at Newman Farm I did a variety of tasks such as working/processing baby pigs and feeding hogs, sheep, and cattle. My main responsibility w to organize a breeding program for a group of gilts and then artificially inseminate them (AI). order to do this I had to be very organized and keep good records. My day consisted of getti to the farm early in the morning to feed the gilts. I then went through every single one of them and checked heat to see if they were ready to be bred. When it was all said and done I had 3 different groups (there were 94 gilts). Here are some pictures and videos of me artificially inseminating and caring for the gilts

Artificial Inseminating a gilt Feeding

During my apprenticeship at Newman Farm I did a variety of tasks such as working/processing baby pigs and feeding hogs, sheep, and cattle. My main responsibility was to organize a breeding program for a group of gilts and then artificially inseminate them (AI). In order to do this I had to be very organized and keep good records.

and honored to be a part of. I am inspired by Anne’s story and how passionate she was about the thing that she loved.

STONY

5, 2022

Stony Pond Farm is idyllic. It is a working dairy farm, with 61 Jersey cows for milking, 25-30 calves, a herd of heifers (young female cows that have yet to have a calf), two Jersey bulls for breeding, some beef cattle somewhere on the farm, seven pigs and a home garden. The Webbs also share their farm with a younger farming couple who work part-time for them while setting up their own chicken farm.

Melanie’s cheeses are sold at a wide variety of excellent cheese shops and markets throughout Vermont and beyond, including a cheese shop in Boston and at Saxelby Cheesemongers in the Chelsea Market. In the short time I have been working with Melanie, I have come to truly appreciate her commitment to her business, her work ethic (12-14 hour days, 7 days/week!!), her total lack of pretense and posturing, her willingness to let me jump right into her cheesemaking, and her amazing cheeses, of course!

While she has had some cheesemaking training and has been working with a cheesemaking consultant of late, she is largely self-taught and falls in the camp of “learning while doing,” which is so impressive. She is thorough, rigorous, detail-oriented and utterly committed to improving her knowledge and skills. She is also friendly, funny and interesting and is just so pleasant and fun to be around!

Melanie is the cheesemaker at Stony Pond Farm and she will be my main work partner and mentor over the course of the month I will be on the farm. She could not be more warm, welcoming and enthusiastic about her craft. Melanie has been making cheese for only three years and has had an impressive amount of success during that time.

excerpts from CUNY City Tech curriculum journal & photos by Hattie Hill

● Al clogs and other cave equ pment stay in the cave to prevent cross contamination cheese types

I was blown away when I learned Rule 36: “You can make four thousand cheeses with just four ingredients.”

● After brushing or turning cheese, sweep the floor so that the mold and cheese part cles on the floor don’t get tracked in and out

● Clean and pasteurize the ash boards between batches

7/26/2022

As you begin your apprenticeship, there will be a significant learning curve. Read rules 36 through 42 of The New Rules of Cheese by Anne Saxelby. How does your practical experience bring to life the words on the pages? Be specific and reference at least four of the rules in this section.

Rule 28 is “Cheeses, like children, must be raised.” Th s ru e deals with what happens after the cheese has been made and now needs to be aged What comes

and,

Rule 36: You can make four thousand cheeses with just four ingredients.

At Stony Pond Farm, I have been lucky to get a lot of exposure to the cheese aging

s a large (approximately 18

refrigerated

set to about 55

Rule 38: Microbes are our friends!

and 95%

Rule 40: Understand the coagulation process.

three walls of meta cheese aging racks where boards made of ash wood can be hung to hold the aging cheese

Rule 41: Cheese is a food worth its salt.

boards must be washed with soap and a scrub brush, fully air dried, and then pasteurized in a 170 F oven for an hour before they can be hung in the

cave has a smooth cement floor and the walls are covered in wh te

I definitely thought that different flavors and additives might be added to the milk while making it (and that is probably the case with some industrial cheeses).

But on Day 1 at Stony Pond Farm, we started with one vat of milk and within 24 hours had two completely different cheeses, a camembert and a spreadable cheese. About four hours into the make, the now pasteurized milk was divided and treated differently (different cultures were added and they were treated differently), but otherwise the ingredients were the same (the same milk, salt and animal rennet). I was so surprised that it was that simple. Not easy,July 19, 2022

Rule 47 is “Cheese is art.”

In this rule, Anne discusses how unlike many people’s perceptions, art actually involves a lot of hard work. It’s not as glamorous or as easy as it looks. Much of making art is following rules, doing research, toiling over canvases and other materials, and a lot of “technical and repetitive” actions. Saxelby argues that cheesemaking is the same. It is more about “dishwashing and science” than creativity, although creativity does come into play.

July 26, 2022

Rule 28 is “Cheeses, like children, must be raised.”

This rule deals with what happens after the cheese has been made and now needs to be aged. What comes next is affinage, which is the French term for cheese aging. An affineur is the person who works in the cheese aging cave and, as Anne writes, “is responsible for maturing or aging cheese to its perfect expression of flavor and ripeness.”

photos and reflections by Oliver Prince (left) and Jubal Bernstein (right)

Hello! My name is Jubal Bernstein, and I was an ASLF apprentice at Uplands Cheese in Wisconsin.

During my time as an apprentice at uplands cheese, I performed many tasks. This is what a typical day might look like for me.

Each morning, before I started working, I changed into shoes that are only for creamery use and can never go outside, as well as a creamery appointed outfit. This is for cleanliness and sanitation purposes, and to avoid any contamination to the cheese environment. After clocking in, I wash my hands thoroughly and enter the creamery.

There are a variety of tasks to be done every day, including salting the cheese by hand, brushing with a yeast solution, and flipping the 10 pound wheels by hand.

Oliver Prince, Uplands Cheese

enroute to milking

pouring into vat directly from farm

and rennet added to milk.

In Image 1, the final step for the cheese is shown after wrapping and boxing. This is something that we had a lot of time with at the creamery, and is an important step, as it allows the cheeses to be sent out to the consumers.

Cheesemaking at Uplands Cheese

Another essential step is brushing the cheese with a yeast solution. This helps in many ways, most importantly it helps develop the rind, and get rid of any unwanted mold that has grown on the outside of the cheese. This was my personal favorite task, because I got to handle the cheese for the longest time.

While I never got my hands on the milk, I think it’s important to explain what happens to turn the milk into cheese. After the milk is brought into the creamery from the barn, it is cultured and renneted and cut. It is a raw milk cheese, which means that it is never heated to pasteurization temperatures. This allows the cheese to keep that fresh, rich, delicious flavor that is held in raw milk. Image 2 shows the cutting after the rennet has been added and the milk has solidified.

Another task that we took part in was flipping the cheese, both with Rush Creek (The small, soft and gooey cheese) and the Pleasant Ridge Reserve (the larger, richer and more solidified cheese). In Image, Oliver Prince is seen flipping the Rush Creek.

There are many more tasks to be done, but there is only so much that can be fit into a day. After changing out of the creamery outfit, I clock out, and my work day is done.

The surrounding area is beautiful. Rolling hills, scenic views, it is truly a wonderful landscape. On our off time, we would visit other creameries and farms in Wisconsin. Image 4 is a goat at the incredible Blakesville creamery, where Veronica was kind enough to give us a tour and cheese tasting. I’ve heard a lot about Wisconsin Hospitality, but I never truly believed it until I visited. If we weren’t at work or visiting another creamery, we were hiking or exploring the local area. The hikes around the area are some of the most beautiful I have ever seen, and those alone would have been worth a trip to Wisconsin.

“At the end of the day, this was a once in a lifetime trip for me. I learned more about cheese than I ever could’ve imagined. I met some of the kindest, most incredible people, made some of the best cheese, and had an incredible time doing it.”

At the end of the day, this was a once in a lifetime trip for me. I learned more about cheese than I ever could’ve imagined. I met some of the kindest, most incredible people, made some of the best cheese, and had an incredible time doing it.

MEATS

from August Grice

photos from Alexander Sethi and Julian Giusti-Smith

THANK YOU

Anne once wrote, “I hope I can continue to do this job until I am old, well-aged, and hopefully more complex! Like a good wheel of cheese.” But she left us unexpectedly in the second act of the play. She was taking on obstacles of an ambitious plot with grace and dignity — growing a business, raising a family, making art, deepening a vast web of personal connections. The resolution of her story will never be a proper one, but she lived her life in such a way that many actors are filling in to write it. Thirty-three Apprentices traveled the country to 18 farms, following in her footsteps, and many more will embark in the years to come.

Thank you to everyone who has given to the Anne Saxelby Legacy Fund, and supported the first season of ASLF Apprenticeships in Anne’s name. To help make future seasons possible, please visit: www.annesaxelbylegacyfund.org/make-a-donation.