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On a cold Monday morning in early August, Whitianga ferry captain Eric Mair lifts three buckets of paint from the Whitianga wharf and places them neatly under the seating in his ferry.

A local tradesman hands him a roll of electrical tape and he tucks it alongside. Eric says the paint is not the most unusual cargo he’s transported in his 16 years of driving the vessel (he’s now retired but returns to do the occasional shift). There have been coffins (occupied) on their way to the cemetery at Ferry Landing, and raucous participants of hens’ parties or stag do’s.

He also used to take a farm worker from Whitianga across the estuary to Ferry Landing every day for work. “That guy once brought back a wild pig he’d stuck. It had come down onto the farm he was working on. It left a right mess on the boat,” says Eric.

Black-and-white photos surrounding the ferry’s helm hint at the area’s history, but, says Eric, many who make the estuary crossing every year would have no idea of the importance of the old stone wharf on the other side.

The ferry’s new owners, former America’s Cup yachtie Jeremy Lomas and his wife Louise, only realised the wharf’s history after they bought the ferry business in 2018. It turned out that Louise’s great-great-greatgrandfather Captain Ranulph Dacre established the original wharf at Ferry Landing in the 1830s.

Back then it was the seat of the Coromandel’s kauri trade and gave rise to one of the earliest European settlements outside New Zealand’s Far North.

“The wharf was in a pretty bad state a few years ago,” says Eric. “It was literally falling into the sea. It’s great they’ve saved it.”

Whitianga’s old stone wharf has been revived thanks to a wide-ranging community effort

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SAFE LANDING

WORDS: NICOLA MARTIN • IMAGERY: VAUGHAN GRIGSBY

16 Summer 2019 Heritage New Zealand

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1 The stone wharf at Ferry Landing in Whitianga is the oldest civil engineering project in New Zealand that is still working and serving its original purpose. 2 Retired ferry captain Eric

Mair fills in the odd shift for the service, which provides a vital link between the Whitianga and Ferry Landing communities.

It was the wharf’s history that captured retired engineer and Ferry Landing resident Bob Nicholls and spurred him on to create a local group to restore it.

Bob was four when his father, John, bought some of the first sections on offer at Ferry Landing in the late 1940s. Bob retired there in 2008 and now lives just up on the hill from where he used watch the ferry coming and going before the pōhutukawa trees grew too tall.

“It’s the oldest civil engineering project in New Zealand that’s still there and still serving its original purpose,” he says.

“I’d always admired its history, but things were falling off it and it was degrading. I knew we had to save it.”

Bob rallied a group of like-minded locals, including Toby Morcom and Alison Henry, to drive the project, and together they approached the ThamesCoromandel District Council (TCDC) and Engineering New Zealand.

“Everyone agreed it needed to be saved, but projects like this cost money and getting funding was challenging at first,” says Bob.

In December 2014 a $187,845 grant from the Lottery Environment and Heritage Fund enabled work to begin. As support for the restoration grew, the group managed to raise a total of $660,000 – the lion’s share coming from TCDC.

“At the time there were some who questioned why we should spend the money, but you see people come over to Ferry Landing now and they engage with the space,” says Bob.

“They see the signs and the artwork, and it helps unveil the uniqueness and importance of this area and our place in the world.”

Heritage New Zealand Senior Heritage Assessment Advisor Martin Jones says the Category 1 wharf is an important demonstration of the arrival of globalised trade in pre-colonial New Zealand.

Built in about 1836, the wharf was designed by Sydney timber merchant Gordon Davies Browne on behalf of Captain Dacre, who had established a timber milling and ship building business in Mercury Bay, exporting kauri products to overseas markets and trading imported goods with local iwi Ngāti Hei. The original structure was built with the help of Ngāti Hei.

While parts of the original 1830s stone wharf remain, it has also been added to over the years. In 1864 it was expanded to include the timber mill, which eventually outgrew the site and was moved to Whitianga. Over time a raised loading platform, goods shed, cattle race, stone steps for ferry access and timber derrick for lifting cargo from ships were all added.

“It is believed to be the earliest stone wharf in New Zealand, so has high technological value in relation to that. But from a bigger picture perspective, it is a remnant of very early international commerce in New Zealand,” says Martin.

He says the wharf is also significant as it was operating well before the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840.

“The activity of this wharf was operating in a Māori world. Often these stories are told from a Pākehā

Heritage New Zealand Summer 2019 17

The ‘Safe landing’ story of the old stone wharf at Ferry Landing, Whitianga, by Nicola Martin (Summer 2019) made interesting reading. Nicola captured well the many levels of willing community and local government involvement that saw the restoration of this Category 1 historic place completed.

While this remarkably successful project was, indeed, a local effort involving Ngāti Hei, the wider community and the council, there are other essential roles that must also be recognised: archaeologist Louise Furey of CFG Heritage, Robin Byron of Heritage New Zealand (then known as the New Zealand Historic Places Trust) and Geometria, which provided the 3D scan of the structure that clearly identified the deterioration of the mortar.

Louise’s Ferry Landing Stone Wharf Conservation Plan prepared for ThamesCoromandel District Council in 2011 provided a comprehensive history of the wharf and the developing timber industry in pre-treaty times. Her report was the professional base that underpinned the restoration work. The Category 1 status of the wharf required Heritage New Zealand to be involved at all stages and the support provided by them was invaluable.

Today the restored old wharf is a community asset that is used and enjoyed by thousands of locals and visitors every year.

Alison Henry Whitianga

Just a few lines to tell you how much I enjoy reading your high-quality magazine. The articles are well written (rare these days!) and illustrated and there is always something of interest for everyone. I read it from cover to cover and try to pass my copy on to an outlet where it will be seen by a wider audience, such as in a doctor’s waiting room.

I particularly appreciate the mini-dictionaries reminding us of the translation of words from the Māori language. It’s so important that we don't gloss over these in ignorance, since they form an important part of our heritage.

As a long-time member and supporter of Heritage New Zealand, I want to point out that some years ago, when I was having great difficulty in identifying the illustrations as they were being presented as ‘clockwise from left’ and so on, I made the suggestion that they be numbered instead. This was promptly done and since then I, and I hope many others, have no problem at all!

You and your team are doing a great job. Thank you.

Juliet Pearson

I am a keen reader of Heritage New Zealand magazine but was upset to see the massive stump of what was a healthy, mature, historic tree of Auckland in ‘Climb every mountain’ in the Autumn 2020 edition. It is surprising that Heritage New Zealand magazine would publish a photograph of such destruction. An added insult to intelligence is the tag ‘Heritage for Kids’, when our children depend on us to protect the planet and its life-giving force of trees, particularly now with climate change. Today the huge stump is now suffering the added disrespect of graffiti and my own children have witnessed the magnificent tree reduced to this sorry state.

This stump was one of 153 mature healthy trees felled in March (this time last year) on Māngere Mountain, to the distress of residents who love and live with the maunga. Not only were trees lost but also their inhabitants, such as ruru, were no longer heard. Some cried at the destruction of the trees, and I found it too painful to visit the maunga afterwards.

A year on, sedges and grasses were placed in bottomless plastic pots where trees were. The new plants needed the shade and root systems of mature trees to support their growth, rather than trying to survive on their own. They died in the heat. The introduction states “with the harsh heat of summer”. Precious shade has been lost, so does this imply we are less likely to walk on the maunga in the increasing heat of climate change? It is known that trees are more essential than ever before for the health and wellbeing of our planet and people. It would be worthwhile for Heritage New Zealand magazine to visit Te Pane o Mataoho and other maunga of Auckland that are due to be cleared of exotic trees that have considerable heritage; some 70 to 100-plus years old.

I hope you can provide an article on the magnificence of mature heritage trees that are increasingly under threat of destruction.

Evie Mahoney Māngere Bridge

Editor: Evie’s letter was one of a number we received relating to the picture that ran with our Heritage for Kids piece in the Autumn 2020 issue. We apologise for any upset – it is never our intention to offend as we carry out our kaupapa of sharing stories relating to New Zealand’s historic heritage. Please be assured we will continue to highlight stories of heritage trees and gardens where they are appropriate and relate to the important built heritage sites and places of sacred and ancestral significance we profile.

HERITAGE NEW ZEALAND POUHERE TAONGA DIRECTORY

National Office PO Box 2629, Wellington 6140 Antrim House 63 Boulcott Street Wellington 6011 (04) 472 4341

(04) 499 0669 information@heritage.org.nz Go to www.heritage.org.nz for details of offices and historic places around New Zealand that are cared for by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga.

... WITH BRENDON VEALE

Wow, how much can change in just a few weeks!

The Covid-19 crisis has affected us all in so many ways, and my thoughts are especially with those whose health has been adversely affected by the pandemic.

The situation has, of course, affected many aspects of our operations here at Heritage New Zealand. The properties we manage, along with our offices around the country, have had to close during the highest levels of the national Covid-19 Alert System – one exception being the Ophir Post Office in Central Otago, which has continued to operate its essential postal services.

Above all, we can’t emphasise enough how important it is to continue to renew your memberships when they are due and thereby support the work of Heritage New Zealand. Now more than ever we need to hold close and protect what is precious to us as a nation, and draw strength from the enduring resilience inherent in our heritage places.

During lockdown in March and April, Heritage New Zealand staff kept working, albeit remotely. For me and others in the team, this work included contacting many of you by phone, rather than by the usual postal or email channels, to discuss your memberships. We much appreciate your understanding and forbearance as we amended our processes to best meet your needs during an unsettling time.

For further information and updates on how Covid-19 is affecting our operations and activities, please visit

Takarunga/Mt Victoria, Devonport, p16

Places we visit

Grafton, p8, p30

Waikanae, p42 Pākaraka, p20

www.heritage.org.nz.

Brendon Veale Manager Asset Funding 0800 HERITAGE (0800 437482) bveale@heritage.org.nz

Tongariro, p7

Wakefield, Nelson, p10 Pūtiki, Whanganui, p36

Dunedin, p24

SINCE WE WERE THERE

Paper cups WINTER 2019 ISSUE

There’s more than meets the eye in this cool reusable coffee cup. Its beautiful ‘bloom’ print is actually based on a wallpaper that’s part of a Heritage New Zealand collection of more than 2000 early wallpapers. Supereagle-eyed readers might even recognise this specific print – based on a wallpaper produced by Sanderson in England from 1923 – from a feature story we ran on heritage wallpapers on page 20 of our Winter issue last year.

The reusable coffee cup is one of a number of products Heritage New Zealand is launching that feature a range of stunning designs from its wallpaper collection. Other products include cards, notepads, candles, scarves, water bottles, custom-size block-mounted art prints and Blunt umbrellas (pre-order only). And Heritage New Zealand members will be the first to be able to snap them up, before they are made available through the Heritage New Zealand online store and then at the organisation’s physical offices around the country.

Heritage This Month – subscribe now Keep up to date by subscribing to our free e-newsletter Heritage This Month. Visit www.heritage.org.nz (‘Resources’ section) or email membership@heritage.org.nz to be included in the email list.

... WITH JAMIE DOUGLAS Heritage New Zealand Social Media Manager

International Women’s Day on 8 March was celebrated in style on Heritage New Zealand social media forums, with five posts leading up to the big day.

Interest was clearly high following the Suffrage 125 celebrations last year. A 5 March post about Jane Takotowi Clendon (pictured) really stole the limelight with an impressive 15,146 people reached,including 89 people ‘loving’ the post and 35 clicking the ‘wow’ emoji.

These figures are understandable when you learn more about Jane Clendon, the woman behind Clendon House – cared for by Heritage New Zealand – in Rāwene. Jane

was the daughter of Takotowai (Ann) Te Whata, a rangatira of Mangamuka, and Northland trader Dennis Cochrane.

At 17 Jane married James Clendon, a prominent English settler and politician, who was 40 years her senior. Widowed at 34 and with eight children, Jane used her standing in Māori and Pākehā worlds to repay debts, educate her children and remain in their family home.

Other posts that ticked the right boxes for heritage supporters included that of 16 February about small, functional buildings constructed by early pioneers. The posts about Oruaiti Chapel, possibly the smallest chapel in Aotearoa New Zealand; the purpose-built, octagonal, brick Glentunnel Library, which still operates today; and the delightfully named Ruru Station – actually more of a railway shelter shed and one of only a few that survive – reached 13,819 people.

Rounding out the top three posts was the 9 February post about Te Taero a Kereopa/ Te Tāhuna a Tama-i-ea/ Boulder Bank in Nelson. More than 13,000 people were reached, with 376 reactions, comments and shares.

THREE QUICK QUESTIONS WITH AMANDA TRAYES

The heritage world is full of connections, and one of the many joys of working on Heritage New Zealand magazine is when we uncover links between our stories and our own whānau. Such was the case in this issue for art director Amanda Trayes.

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While you were working on this issue, you realised you had a connection to the story on The Friends of St David’s Trust. What was the link?

Cyril Bassett, who was New Zealand’s only Gallipoli recipient of the Victoria Cross and had links to St David’s, was my greatgreat-uncle on my mother’s side.

2Were you already familiar with the story of VC Cyril Bassett? My grandfather was named after Cyril Frederick Bassett but in reverse – Frederick Cyril Bassett. The story goes that Cyril was very short and said he escaped being killed in the war as the bullets flew right over the top of him.

We were also told that Cyril was a very modest man – apparently his daughters didn’t find out he had a VC until they were studying Anzac Day in school. He was uncomfortable about being the only New Zealander awarded the VC at Gallipoli; he felt that hundreds should have been given the honour – “All my mates ever got were wooden crosses,” he said.

3You’ve been part of the Heritage New Zealand magazine team

for nine years now. What’s the most special family link you’ve come across?

That one’s from my dad’s side of the family. Via my whānau Facebook page, I recently came across a photo that my niece had posted of my great-great-grandfather Captain David Clark's headstone. It turns out his final resting place is at Māngungu Mission Station, Hōreke.

I’m originally from the Far North and for issue 134 (Summer 2014) I took a trip following the Heritage New Zealand Path to Nationhood Northland driving app. In the story, I spoke about how Māngungu was my favourite place on the trip, and also about the large ships built in Hōreke, including the Sir George Murray, which was seized on arrival in Sydney for failing to fly the flag of her country. At that point in history New Zealand didn’t have a flag, and it was this event that led to the recognition of a New Zealand flag in 1834.

I thought that was a really cool side-story about the area. Little did I know at the time, it was my great-great-grandfather who built and launched the Sir George Murray and sailed her to Sydney. I’m looking forward to revisiting Northland sometime soon and retracing the tour, paying a lot more attention to my personal connections.

STANDING TALL

Since being introduced at the age of 13 to whakairo at his kura, Hayz Isherwood (right) has had a love of the art form.

“I loved it because it was something traditional and it related back to my culture and heritage,” says the artist, of the Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro hapū of Ngāti Tūwharetoa. “It was an extension of my art and of my culture.”

The 29-year-old from Tūrangi is the artist behind a commemorative pou whakairo recently unveiled at Te Pōrere.

A wāhi tapu and Category 1 historic place in the central North Island, Te Pōrere was the site of the final major battle of the New Zealand Wars. The pou whakairo was commissioned to commemorate 150 years since that engagement on 4 October 1869.

Hayz says the project is significant to him personally; he hopes to educate people with his work through its references to Te Kooti Arikirangi Te Turuki, who defended his position at Te Pōrere against a combined force of more than 500 British troops and their Māori allies.

“This is the place of the last battle of the land wars between Māori and British, so that is significant for the whole nation of New Zealand.

“It’s a privilege for me to be involved in this kaupapa, to help educate people.”

The pou whakairo takes its form from the traditional waka maumahara.

“Whenever rangatira passed away, or big battles took place,” he explains, “the tauihu – the front of the waka – was stood upright on the ground and used as a commemoration.”

For more about Te Pōrere, visit www.heritage.org.nz/

the-list/details/7652

RETURN TO CONTENTS

kaupapa:

initiative kura: school maunga: mountain

pou whakairo:

freestanding carved sculpture rangatira: chiefs wāhi tapu: site of sacred significance

waka maumahara:

memorial pillar

whakairo:

carving