3 minute read
TOHU WHENUA
This summer Tohu Whenua is encouraging all New Zealanders to include a heritage experience in their summer travel itineraries. One such site is Rākaumangamanga Cape Brett.
WORDS: Claudia Babirat IMAGES: Chris Pegman
Choosing the right feature image for the Tohu Whenua summer campaign was challenging. Many of our most treasured heritage places just happen to be located in jaw-dropping locations. But there was one photo that simply wowed us: a sunset capture of the lighthouse at Rākaumangamanga – Cape Brett located at the entrance to Pēwhairangi Bay of Islands. The image was captured by photographer, Chris Pegman, while he was scouting locations to photograph people competing in Te Tai Tokerau Northland’s gruelling Cape Brett Challenge. “I spent a whole evening out [at Cape Brett],” says Chris. “I just couldn't be drawn to sleep, there was so much beautiful emotion and atmosphere to photograph, such a clear night too.” With its spectacular headland, views onto Motukokako Island, sightings of dolphins and resident seals, Cape Brett is indeed a paradise for anyone who likes to use their camera. What makes being there even more poignant is that it’s also a place deeply steeped in history. The Cape has a 1,000-year heritage of signalling sailors arriving in Aotearoa New Zealand. It was the landing point of the first seven waka that travelled from Hawaiiki to Aotearoa, whose occupants followed the dawn light reflecting off the peninsula’s crystalline rocks. The seven distinctive peaks that mark Cape Brett's spine represent those first seven waka, and to this day the region remains an area of spiritual and traditional importance to Te Tai Tokerau Māori.
In 1906, Cape Brett became the site of a lighthouse that continued to help provide a safe passage for new arrivals. The 14-metre beacon protected seafarers from the rugged coast for over 70 years. It was looked after by up to three families at a time – over 100 keepers in its lifetime who also acted as postmasters, weathermen, butchers, gardeners, carpenters, painters and anything else that needed doing in this remote location. In 1978, a smaller automated light was installed which spelt the end of the settlement. One lighthouse keeper’s cottage remains, now a bookable Department of Conservation hut.
There are several ways you can get to Cape Brett, including a challenging full-day hike from Rāwhiti or a scenic 35-minute boat trip from Paihia. Chris recommends a third option: catching a water taxi into Deep Water Cove followed by a 2.5 hour walk to Cape Brett via native bush and spectacular viewpoints.
For Chris, Cape Brett will forever have a special place in his heart. Partly for the profound experience he had, but also because the images he took that night launched a “somewhat successful” journey of panoramic landscape and astrophotography. Look out for Chris’s beautiful image featured in the media, visit a Tohu Whenua heritage site this summer... and don’t forget your camera! n
Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga is a partner in Tohu Whenua, a visitor programme that connects New Zealanders with our unique heritage.
Other Tohu Whenua you might enjoy visiting in Te Tai Tokerau Northland:
• Rangihoua Heritage Park: Visit the site of Aotearoa New Zealand's first The team of Delta arborists who worked on planned European settlement, a Riddell’s Farm for Arbour Day 2021.place where Māori and Europeans learned to live side by side. • Ruapekapeka Pā: Walk the maunga where Māori chiefs defied British violations of Te Tiriti o Waitangi by making their final stand of the Northern Wars. • Kororipo Heritage Park: Immerse yourself in multiple experiences at the heart of Kerikeri Basin where some of the most important early meetings between Māori and Europeans took place.
