HERNE HILL THE MAG A ZINE OF THE HERNE HILL SOCIET Y❧ ISSUE 123❧ SUMMER❧ 2013
❧£2
Kind permission of Stuart Brown
change at the
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“e f f i e” rosendale milk depot
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the thoughts of chair man colin ❧ accounts: 2 0 1 2 ❧ w i l df l o w e r m e a d o w ❧ the lost fffra project ❧ t r a c e y emin ❧ a tale of three b r i d g e s ❧ a ”c r i s i s o f b r i l l i a n c e” ❧ a h e r n e h i l l f a m i l y’s story ❧ Dakota Fanning❧an unbearable frenchman❧More inside...
the Herne hill society Registered Charity No:1094346❧£2❧Free to Members❧Issue No:123❧Summer 2013
Committee 2013—2014 President Chair
Bill Kirby 020 7274 0532 Colin Wight 020 7733 2573 Email: colinwight@btinternet.com Vice-Chair Laurence Marsh 020 7737 0658 Email: laurence@marsh62.co.uk Secretary Jeff Doorn 020 7274 7008 Email: doornjeffrey@hotmail.com Treasurer Rosalind Glover 020 8678 1757 Email: rosalindglover@yahoo.co.uk Committee Cynthia Anderson 020 7274 3408 Email:cynthia.anderson45@gmail.com John Brunton 020 8678 1757 Email: johnbrunton@yahoo.co.uk Magazine Nick Baker 020 7274 1702 Email: nbak@mac.com Editorial Address and Membership Subscriptions: Herne Hill Society, PO Box 27845 LONDON SE24 9XA. facebook.com/hernehillsociety Call for contributors We always welcome new contributors. So if you’re a writer, artist or just have something to say about Herne Hill please get in touch with Nick Baker at: nbak@mac.com. Copy deadline for the Autumn issue is 22 August 2013. ❧ Opinions expressed in the Magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily of the the Herne Hill Society Committee, which likewise does not approve or endorse the quality or suitability of any goods or services advertised in the Magazine.
contents News:
Change at the Top New Chair shares his Thoughts Chair’s Report 2012-13 Accounts for 2012 Stop Press! A Farewell View Transport News Brockwell Park Wildflower Meadow Lost Effra Project Regeneration Project: Update Rosendale Road Milk Depot Better Communications Oxfam in Herne Hill Planning and Licensing A Tale of Three Bridges
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Adverts
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Articles:
A Herne Hill Family’s Story “A Crisis of Brilliance” at DPG “Effie”: Star-studded Biopic An Unbearable Frenchman Review of Recent Talks
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Adverts
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Society events:
Society Events Other Societies’ Events Councillors’ Contacts More Images from DPG
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Adverts
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society news
all change at the top
After ten years as Chair, Sheila Northover decided not to seek re-election at the Society’s March AGM. She would like to spend more time with her grandchildren. Her place has been taken by Colin Wight. For the past eight years Colin has been on the Committee as our Web Editor, and with responsibility for online communication and AV presentation. Sheila has long been associated with the Herne Hill Society. In 1993 she took on the role of Secretary, becoming Chair ten years later. In those 20 years of hard work and commitment, Sheila has made an enormous contribution to the success of the Society and has done so much to benefit the Herne Hill community. We are all very grateful for everything she has done. ❧ JB
the society’s New chair shares his thoughts
After ten years as Chair, and ten before that as Secretary, noone can begrudge Sheila her “retirement”. But what a hard act to follow! I am beginning to get an inkling of how much she did. If you haven’t met me yet or only know me as the man who tries to get the slides in focus or the volume about right (and if you think that’s easy, please volunteer your services)… come and say hello at our next meeting. A few words about me and my relationship with Herne Hill: Continued
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Born in Scotland and brought up in the Wirral, I came to London in 1984, living first in Clapham, and then Brixton, before moving on and up to Herne Hill over ten years ago. I joined the Society shortly afterwards. In a relatively short time, I have seen SE24 change, mostly for the better. It is obvious from the expensive cars in my street that it has become a desirable destination for well-todo, young(ish) people. The demographics have changed: these people are well educated and computer-literate. They are cash rich but time poor. They may love Herne Hill, but they are not likely to attend many of our events – at least not during the working week. Their relationship with us may be at arm’s length but still significant. As the British Library’s website editor, this is something I understand. If the Society is to thrive we’ll need to make use of the energy and skills of younger people, and that is what we shall be trying to do, while continuing to offer a high-quality service to all our members. I want this Society to be the best it can be, even if it is run entirely by volunteers. Enjoy the magazine! ❧ CW
Chair’s Report for 2012-13
Sheila Northover looks back on events over the past year The Planning, Licensing and Environment group, led by David Taylor, has continued to monitor and comment on planning applications in our area, in both Lambeth and Southwark. Of special note are the negotiations, still to be concluded, with Lambeth Council over the important ‘Section 106’ agreement, i.e. the community benefits associated with the new development on the former petrol station site. We have also been actively monitoring and helping to deal with the problems associated with the late night economy, mainly in Norwood Road but also elsewhere in Herne Hill. Our transport representative, Bil Harrison, produced a detailed response to the Department of Transport consultation on Thameslink services. His contributions on our behalf were widely praised and clearly helped to get a good result for Herne Hill – trains through Herne Hill will continue to run north of Blackfriars. Bil has made a number of suggests for improvements to local transport. One of the things he helped push through was modifying the pedestrian phasing at the Herne Hill junction.
one at Bessemer Grange School and another in the Carnegie Library. Our April talk focused on the great man. Although nearly two years since its publication, our Short History of Herne Hill continues to sell well. And we plan soon to publish a new and greatly expanded edition of another best-selling book, Herne Hill Heritage Trail. One of the triumphs of the year was in June, when the longlost bust of Thomas Lynn Bristowe MP was successfully installed in Brockwell Hall; and the original plinth placed in the Walled Garden in Brockwell Park. This was the culmination of a joint project with the Friends of Brockwell Park and Lambeth Council. Now the team has reconvened to work on restoring the old Clock Tower next to Brockwell Hall. In July, we witnessed a rare unveiling of an English Heritage Blue Plaque in SE24. It is on 84 Burbage Road, the former home of Sam Mussabini; and was most fittingly unveiled shortly before the opening of the London Olympics. There is a section on Sam’s life and achievements in our publication Herne Hill Personalities. In August the 150th anniversary of Herne Hill Station was celebrated twice. On behalf of the Society, Robert Holden organised a birthday party including talks and a walk. Later, the Herne Hill Forum projected the classic silent film, The General, on to the front of the station also attracting an enthusiastic crowd. Publications are an important source of income, an income we need, not least, to help fund our successful quarterly Magazine. Our bookstall continues to tour a number of events including those held at Lambeth Archives, Carnegie Library, Ruskin Park, Nunhead Cemetery, and the Herne Hill Forum’s winter market in Railton Road. Particularly important for us is the Lambeth Country Show. We were dismayed to be told that the usual July Country Show was to be cancelled because of the need to provide police cover for the Olympics. But following a local outcry, the Show was successfully held in September. The Society has a hard-working and dedicated group making up the Committee, but many others help, representing the Society on outside organisations, carrying out research and investigations into issues of local importance and supporting the Society in so many other ways, large and small. I would like to thank them all most sincerely for their loyalty. Running the society puts demands on us all, but it is worthwhile and often entertaining. In preparing this report I was reminded of the many positive decisions that we have made this year. There is still much to do, but I am standing down after ten years as Chair. But I shall reappear on the back benches as minutes secretary, for now anyway. ❧
The History Group has continued its research, writing and answering enquiries. We will soon be publishing a new, revised and expanded edition of Patricia Jenkyns’ 1984 booklet The Story of Henry Bessemer. Also to mark the 200th anniversary of his birth, Jeff Doorn led two special events, Herne Hill-Summer-2013
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accounts for 2012
A Farewell View
Herne Hill Society Accounts for year ending 31 December 2012. The Herne Hill Society’s accounts for the year to 31 December 2012 were presented at the AGM in March 2013. For those who were unable to come to the meeting the summary figures are:
By the time you read this the view shown in the March photograph will be gone.
Total income for the year was £8,228.80 made up as follows: Subscriptions and donations Magazine Advertising Monthly meetings (excluding publications and memberships) Profit from publications Bank interest Gift Aid Bristowe Project
2,605.20 1,008.00 514.38 808.06 17.39 425.77 2,850.00
There has been a view across to Herne Hill ever since the station was built 150 years ago. In its place, and due to be completed in August, will be a brand new building, due to be called – so the hoardings tell us – Academy House, providing 69 student rooms and a Tesco on the ground floor. Construction work started last year and once the ground works were finished the building has risen with impressive speed.
Total expenditure was £7,184.22 made up as follows: Stationery, postage and printing of Magazine etc. Hire of hall and stall fees Insurance Speaker fees Refreshments/ raffle prizes for monthly meetings Subscriptions to other organisations Bristowe Project Audit/accountancy Misc. admin. & equipment
2,736.92 406.70 65.00 180.00 135.94 238.00 3,180.00 50.00 191.66
The surplus for the year was £1,044.58.
The entries (both income and expenditure) for the Bristowe Project refer to the funds that the Herne Hill Society has been looking after as part of the joint Herne Hill Society and Friends of Brockwell Park Project to get the bust of Thomas Lynn Bristowe back to Brockwell Hall. The Society is still holding £750.00 of Project money. These are restricted funds which will be put towards an interpretation panel to go in Brockwell Hall showing the history of the original statue to Thomas Lynn Bristowe. This money is included in the Society’s overall funds. A copy of the full, examined, account is on the Herne Hill Society’s website at: http://www.hernehillsociety.org.uk/index.php/ constitution. If you have any questions about these accounts please contact the Treasurer (contact details on the inside cover of this Magazine). ❧
Up to the 1920s the plot where Academy House will stand was undeveloped. It had formed part of the eight-acre estate that went with the substantial house built on Herne Hill in the 1830s and known as The Abbey. The estate stretched down the hill and included the land where Herne Hill Station, the railway embankment, Milkwood Road, and the former bank, fire station and sorting office buildings now stand. While the fire station was in use the plot was grazed by the horses that pulled the fire engines. But the station was closed when motorised engines arrived in the 1920s. The plot was then turned over to a petrol station, a use that continued until 2006. This did not affect the sense of a substantial gap between the buildings – and indeed the ability to walk conveniently from Herne Hill across to the tunnel providing access to the station. That gap is now finally filled, though the developers have listened to local opinion, not least from your Society, and are providing pedestrian access across the site. ❧ LM
RG
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Transport News
brockwell park wild flower meadow
Rail Franchise Update The Department for Transport (Df T) announced at the end of March that First Capital Connect (FCC), the existing Thameslink operator, will get a one year-extension of their franchise to September 2014. A new bidding process between the original four shortlisted companies (which includes FCC) will be completed before then. Southeastern, the company who operates the Kent trains to Victoria and through Blackfriars, will also have its contract extended – firstly to November 2014, and then by direct negotiation for a further four years to May 2018. Df T is planning to start the long process of inviting tenders for the Kent services in 2016 (with Transport for London apparently considering making a bid for the inner London services). This all follows the delays in Df T organising the franchise bidding and recognises the continuing disruption during the rebuilding of London Bridge station. It planned to align some of the franchises being combined in the longer term. Why can’t I get to Waterloo? The Waterloo International train platforms are to be brought back into use – platform 20 in 2014, and the other three a few years later. But they will be used by trains coming in from the Putney direction. Network Rail claim the lines from Nine Elms to Waterloo are too congested to permit new services from a new operator. Tesco While the controversy surrounding the possible Tesco on Herne Hill will be changing day by day between this copy date and publication, here are a few items of information: • The original planning applicant’s transport assessment predicted that just 1% of the customers to the 372 square metres of shopping would arrive by car (2 or 3 customers per hour in the morning and evening peaks). But it made no suggestions as to where they would park: there are parking restrictions on surrounding roads. • All service access by vehicles will be on-site using a one-way gated route and loading bay between Milkwood Road and Herne Hill. So there should be no loading or unloading on the public roads. • The planning permission allows the shop to be open 06:30 am to 11:30 pm Monday to Sundays and on Public/Bank Holidays. A “travel plan” should be submitted by the developer and approved by Lambeth prior to the start of use. I have asked for this, but at the time of writing have not seen an approved plan. • The pedestrian route through the site is open 06:30 am to 8:00 pm. Bil Harrison
On a bright but chilly Good Friday morning wildflower seeds were sown on the slope behind the Brockwell Park Lido. The call for sowing volunteers was answered by two members of the Society’s committee. The Society had made a financial contribution to the cost of the project. The cold bare earth did not look promising, but since then spring has finally arrived and a myriad of green shoots have appeared – surely a sight to cheer the heart. ❧ LM
Lost Effra project Funded by a grant from the Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA), the London Wildlife Trust (LWT) is undertaking a project within the Dulwich, Herne Hill and Loughborough Junction areas to look at how community groups can become involved in setting up and implementing water management strategies. The project will last one year and aims to identify current initiatives in the area, e.g. green roofs, rain gardens etc. and the existing links between the various community groups involved. This will not only help to highlight the success of community action but also identify any barriers which may be preventing initiatives happening. LWT will also seek opportunities to engage communities in producing water management demonstration areas as part of delivering a strategy for the future. The targeted outcome of the project is a draft water management strategy for the area. LWT will also be working with other organisations such as the Greater London Authority, Environment Agency,
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former rosendale road milk depot
Thames Water and the London Boroughs of Lambeth and Southwark to help map areas at risk and to provide technical advice on possible water management initiatives. A project meeting was held at the end of March, unfortunately on a weekday afternoon, which meant that attendance from local residents’ organisations was limited. Following a presentation from the project leader, Lucy Townsend, and a short talk on the history of the River Effra from Dr Martin Heath, Chair of the Friends of Belair Park, the meeting took part in an intensive workshop which concluded that the main barrier to a sustainable community was resources – people, money and time. There were also concerns over personal liability and land ownership. A list of possible projects was suggested. However several members felt that, while it was good that local councils were involved, to make real progress in the community it was essential to involve people at a grass roots level. The next steps are to see what can be done to generate greater input from local residents while developing three demonstration projects and identifying potential sources of funding. ❧ IM
regeneration project: update In December 2010, the Herne Hill Regeneration Project was inaugurated by Daniel Moylan, then Deputy Chairman of Transport for London. The project has been a resounding success, meeting with universal acclamation. However, nearly two and a half years later, one important piece of work still has to be carried out fully to complete the project – widening and upgrading Brockwell Passage. Using the passage in its current state is not exactly a pleasant experience, not helped by a blind corner used as an outdoor urinal. As well as enhancing pedestrian access between the station and Dulwich Road, upgrading this route would increase footfall to the benefit of Dulwich Road shops and provide a potential space for expanding the very successful Sunday markets in Railton Road. To widen the passage Lambeth has had to buy a strip of land, about 1.5 metres wide, from the freeholders. The approval of leaseholders for rebuilding of part of their properties was also needed. The result has been complicated and protracted legal negotiations with a number of stakeholders. Various deadline targets have been set and missed. However, things now do appear to be looking up. Subject to the successful outcome of current negotiations, there does seem a reasonable possibility that, fingers crossed, the necessary work could be done this summer. ❧
Built in 1906, this attractive building served for 75 years as an Express Dairies milk depot and shop. To the rear there was stabling for the horse-drawn milk carts. In 1981 the depot and shop closed. The building was then sold and used for storage. However, some three or four years ago, even that use stopped. The building has an abandoned air and is increasingly dilapidated. It is now blight on the local environment. Occupying an area of perhaps as much as 400 square metres, the site has significant potential for development, to be brought back into productive use either as housing or for commercial purposes, to the benefit of the community. Despite its condition, in 2012 Lambeth awarded the building locally listed status. We do not know why the current owners appear content to let their property become so derelict. Local gossip has it that offers to buy the property have been made, but rejected. To its credit, Lambeth has made attempts to enter into a dialogue with the owners about the site’s future, unfortunately without success. Concerned about the state of an important local asset, the Society Committee has recently entered the arena and has raised with Lambeth officers and local ward councillors, who are very supportive, what might be done to bring this building back into productive use. We’d be delighted to hear from anyone with suggestions on how we might best make progress. ❧ JB
JB
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Better Communication with Members Of course we’ve been publishing a quarterly newsletter (now Herne Hill Magazine) for many years. We have a website, a blog, a Twitter feed (with over 2,000 followers), and from time to time we also post videos on YouTube. Recently we opened a Facebook page, which is starting to attract attention – half the population of the UK now has a Facebook account! Did you know that we send emails to members at least once a month, with news of public meetings and other activities? We have email addresses for about two-thirds of our membership, which is encouraging. However, we know that nearly 50% of you never open emails from us and we would really like to know why! Do you receive them? Do we have your correct and up-to-date email address? Do you read them, or do they go automatically to your “spam” folder so that you do not even see them? Are our emails getting blocked a spam or junk? (You can put us in your “safe sender” list by adding the Herne Hill Society to your contacts or address book.) Unless we know the answers to these questions we will not be able to communicate regularly and cost-effectively with you. We want to make better use of electronic media because, however many members we recruit, our communication costs will stay the same. And we would like a two-way conversation. You can email us at the address below, or add comments to our web pages at any time. We would like to hear about issues of interest and importance to you. Is what we do and say relevant? Are we responding to local issues in a way that meets your needs? What could we do better? Have we got the right priorities? Or, to put it another way, how are we doing? We are planning to survey our members at least once a year, and it is much easier and cheaper to do it electronically, where possible. We are not just looking for committee members (although that would be good too), but to hear what you think, and even perhaps get you involved in projects where you have an interest. We will continue to publish (and deliver to you) our very successful magazine. We know members look forward to receiving it and enjoy reading it. But electronic communication allows us to keep in touch more frequently and rapidly, and to seek your views on important issues that may suddenly crop up suddenly. So if you do have an email address and you are not hearing from us, please tell us. You are always welcome to send your thoughts to chair@ hernehillsociety.org.uk or by post to: The Herne Hill Society, PO Box 27845, London SE24 9XA. Or you can send a comment via the Contact us page on the website www.hernehillsociety.org.uk. ❧ CW/RG
wanted! “postie...” ….to interview for Herne Hill Magazine. If you have had experience working in the old post office, former sorting office or if you deliver mail in Herne Hill and can spare half an hour to answer questions, please get in touch with Becca@worldofbecca.com or text 07598 348071.
❧
Becca Thackray
stop press! Success for Herne Hill in the High Street Renewal Awards. Following a review by Mary Portas the Government created an Innovation Fund to try to reverse the decline in our high streets. In this year’s bidding round Herne Hill has emerged as the only successful applicant in London and the South East, winning an award of £93,057. It started with the Junction Regeneration, then came the Sunday Market – exciting days ahead for Herne Hill! ❧ JB
oxfam in herne hill The Herne Hill Oxfam shop at 28 Half Moon Lane opened in 2005. It goes from strength to strength with total sales of £321,000 in the last financial year. This makes it the country’s tenth most successful Oxfam shop and the top in the south-east region. It even beats Wimbledon Village who had held that title for the last few years! The shop has become an important part of the local community making a positive contribution to the economy of Herne Hill by drawing customers from further afield.The Manager, Gokcen Erdinc, supported by Deputy Manager (and artist) Jess Littlewood, leads a team of over 30 enthusiastic volunteers. Gokcen took over the shop in 2005 when its turnover placed it only 300th in the country. So successful has it become that Oxfam decided to open a book shop across the road. As the only charity shop in Herne Hill there is no shortage of donations and it is always exciting to find something unusual or unexpected. One such was a magazine of bullets. These, having sat around in the shop for a few days, were taken to Brixton Police Station where they were identified as “M62s, unstable and live” and immediately moved to a safer place. They could have gone off at any time! There are guidelines for pricing clothes, depending on the label. Jewellery, vinyl records and cameras are checked by specialist volunteers who price them competitively. The value of donations is increased by 20% if Gift Aided. So donors are encouraged to sign up to this and to remember to put their Gift Aid number on all donations.
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large, adversely affecting the appearance of the street as well as the individual houses and are contrary to specific policies in Lambeth’s UDP. We are disappointed to learn that in one case planning permission has now been given.
Tracey Emin with her Paralympic poster We are grateful to our loyal customers who keep an eye out for people taking things and have been known to say in a loud voice “Are you going to pay for that?” The theft of a Tracey Emin handkerchief from the window, worth up to £600, was particularly upsetting for the staff and volunteers. After the South London Press featured the theft, Tracey Emin contacted the shop and donated a signed copy of her Paralympic poster. This fetched £4,000 in a sealed bid auction. There has recently been the exciting news that Herne Hill will be part of the new Oxfam Shop Experience scheme and in May/June will get a refit. This will give the shop a whole new look. An extension will provide a lot more selling space and help to raise even more money. The volunteers come from a range of backgrounds: school students, some taking part in the Duke of Edinburgh award scheme; au pairs; people wanting to return to work; mums and retired people. Volunteers are always needed, especially those who can make a regular half-day commitment. Application forms are available from the shop. ❧ Christine Bleathman Oxfam Volunteer
PLANNING AND LICENSING Dorchester Drive There have been three recent applications for extensions in Dorchester Drive to which, in each case, the Society has objected. We scrutinise all relevant applications in the SE24 area, but rarely comment on domestic extensions particularly if they are at the rear of the property, this being an issue primarily for the neighbours. However, Dorchester Drive is a particularly fine example of 1930s development with some high-quality houses (almost all designed by architects Kemp &Tasker), creating a very attractive streetscape characterised by well-spaced dwellings. We recognise the need for residents to create more space to meet changing family needs. However, in our view, these proposed extensions are too
Site of former petrol station, Herne Hill Development of this site progresses rapidly. Although the planning issues were resolved in 2012, the issue of the use of the £126,190 ‘Section 106’ contributions from the developers for local community benefits is still outstanding. The Society has been working with the Herne Hill Forum, the Friends of Brockwell Park, the Friends of Carnegie Library and the Herne Hill Regeneration Group to coordinate an approach to Council officers. However, most of our emails have simply been ignored, contrary to Lambeth’s own service standards. This may be because officers are reluctant to reconsider their decisions, despite the instruction from the Planning Committee that local interests should be consulted on how this money should be allocated – they weren’t! – and despite the new Council Leader stating publicly that she wished spending decisions to be devolved locally. The Half Moon Public House Southwark-based architects Panter Hudspith have been appointed by the Dulwich Estate to submit for planning and listed building approval a scheme to partially refurbish this landmark pub in the middle of Herne Hill. The fabric of the pub needs attention. It is proposed to retain but refurbish the historic interior, revamp the upper floors to provide five flats and refurbish extensively the stable block at the rear to provide a two-bed house with garden. The music room will be given acoustic treatment to ensure this much loved venue can continue as now. The Society will examine the application carefully when submitted to ensure this grade 2* listed building continues as a landmark in our community. 164 Denmark Hill This building, formerly in use as a care home, has been the subject of an application for conversion into two houses. The last remaining house of its period on Denmark Hill, it is an attractive but not outstanding building typical of its era; but it has been altered over the years. The Society commented that the scheme would be improved if certain aspects were reconsidered, i.e. the removal of the front portico, the provision of balconies at the rear and the use of a left-over piece of land. Lambeth’s decision is awaited. 77 Herne Hill The long running saga of Dee Dee’s appears to be nearing conclusion. In spite of strong objections from many local residents, Ward Councillors and the Society about the proposal to change the use of this restaurant to a bar and music venue, Southwark Planning Committee approved the application. However, Southwark will monitor how the premises are used, to ensure it continues as a restaurant as well as a bar and music venue. Lambeth local plan Lambeth has prepared a new local plan to replace what remains of the old Unitary Development Plan and the newer core strategy with development policies for the whole bor-
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ough. This has to reflect new national planning policy. The Society has supported several policies which are intended to strengthen existing polices about quality of design and environmental issues. However, we have opposed a policy which would allow up to 25% of the units in any centre to be cafés, restaurants or bars. Dulwich supplementary planning document (SPD) Southwark has updated its development guidance for the Dulwich area which includes Herne Hill. The Society has objected to a policy encouraging higher scale development in Herne Hill and has asked for policies on the night-time economy and forecourt parking to be strengthened. DavidTaylor Hypnotik, 75–79 Norwood Road Despite the closure of Sebastian’s at 49–51 Norwood Road, many local residents and traders continue to express concerns about the impact of the late night economy on the area. On 9 April 2013, the owner of Hypnotik, Lincoln Smith, was summoned to a hearing at Tower Bridge Magistrates’ Court to answer a charge relating to failure to comply with legally served Enforcement Notices by operating as a night club. Mr Smith pleaded not guilty and a further Magistrates’ Court hearing was scheduled for 24–26 June. JB
That is unavoidable. However, the Society has a longerterm concern about the threatened loss of part of our local heritage. And this is avoidable. Network Rail has indicated a commitment to preserve the decorative crests and to consult local opinion about colour schemes for the new bridges. But they say the cast-iron columns will go – they are not necessary. In terms of the overall cost of the work, the replacement of the columns must be very small. It is the columns that surely give the bridges their distinctive character. They add something interesting to the street scene. I suspect most people have never even taken in the crests as they pass. So if these are to be kept, as they should be – a reminder of the bridges’ Victorian history – why scrap the columns, the more conspicuous reminder? And imagine how good they would look if refurbished and painted.
a tale of three bridges In the mid-19th century many new railway lines began to criss-cross South London. One such line was the London Brighton and South Coast Railway. Today we can still see the work of Victorian engineers where the line running between Tulse Hill and North Dulwich crosses Rosendale Road, Croxted Road and Village Way. Some strengthening of the bridges was carried out 100 years ago, but otherwise it seems that they remain largely as built, with decorative heraldic crests on the stone parapets (to represent the Dulwich Estate, Dulwich College and the railway company) and six distinctive cast-iron supporting columns.
Major work is now needed to strengthen the bridges. Network Rail has announced that this will begin in October 2013 and run though until February 2014. There will be partial or total road closures during this period, which will doubtless lead to considerable short-term inconvenience.
The Society, jointly with the Dulwich Society (since these bridges are very much on our boundaries) is trying to build support for the retention of the columns. The response to date from Network Rail is discouraging.
However, Councillor Clare Whelan from Lambeth has been sympathetic. We are not saying that we have here Victorian engineering to compare with the glorious St Pancras. But should we throw away a piece of local history when it can be preserved without excessive expense? ❧
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020 8678 6646 EMAIL: salon@bokishair.com 61 NORWOOD ROAD HERNE HILL, LONDON, SE24 9AA
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A Herne Hill Family’s Story Trevor Hoare recalls his Great Uncle’s sacrifice, lest we forget Courtney Paxton Willson, also known as Jack, stood in line with his chums. The date is 1 July 1916. It’s his 19th birthday today. Little did he know how the day would end. He joined the Lincolnshire Regiment after watching his brothers go to war two years earlier. How a boy from 6 Hurst Street, Herne Hill, ended up in a trench in France must have crossed his mind as he waited for the whistle to blow to start the first battle of the Somme. Records state he was taken to a dressing station behind the lines but died of his wounds. He never returned to Herne Hill, but lies in France with his chums, one of 19,000 killed that day.
took his family far away to a safer place…. EXETER. They survived more bombing this time in just their night-clothes and moved again to Tiverton. After the war they returned first to Kennington then to Effra Road and finally to a flat in Stockwell. There is, however, a “what if?” to this story. The clue lies with Courtney’s middle name, Paxton. Courtney’s grandmother was Marianne Paxton, Great Niece to Sir Joseph Paxton whose achievements were immense, but best known for building the Crystal Palace. Courtney’s grandfather, John Willson was rich, a builder living in Dulwich Village with more servants than family members and employing 89 men. John owned large amounts of Herne Hill, including most of Dulwich Road and property in Brixton. He also had his own brickworks in Rochester, with sailing barges named after all his daughters; and a railway building company. His portfolio included churches, houses, schools, parts of Brixton Prison and the rebuilt Adelphi Theatre. Courtney’s father, my Great Grandfather, was disinherited. He was due to marry Elizabeth Lazenby, a fish-paste magnate’s daughter from Dulwich Village. But he ran off and married Elizabeth Emma Potter, a maid from Foulness Island. So this is how my Willson family of Herne Hill lost their fortune. Had things been different, would they have been spared the horrors of war; and would I not now be seeking to find my great uncle Courtney Paxton Willson on a memorial somewhere in Herne Hill?
Who knows what went through his parents minds when a second son, Sidney, went missing. A letter was sent to the War Office begging for information. The usual condescending reply was received, as if it was not your right to know. This was commonplace for many families at this time, not just Courtney’s parents John and Elisabeth Emma Willson. But happily it turned out he was OK. Courtney’s eldest brother Ernest Edward Willson was my grandfather, a corporal in the Royal Artillery fighting in France and the Dardanelles. He lived in Hurst Street then, and after he was married in Milkwood Road. Again the family succumbed to the menace of the Hun. A target for German bombers in WW2 because of the railway, Milkwood Road was heavily bombed. To get one through your front room window is enough to want to move. So my grandfather
Trevor wrote this story following an enquiry he made to the Herne Hill Society asking whether his Great Uncle’s name was recorded on any of Herne Hill’s World War I memorials. We have done an extensive search, but found nothing. There is one further possibility – a memorial comprising a series of oak panels with the names of the fallen in gold lettering that used to stand in the former St Jude’s Church, Dulwich Road. As the closest to where he lived, this would be the most likely place for Courtney’s name to have been recorded. Unfortunately the memorial has vanished. It was certainly in place in 1928. But enquiries of the current occupiers, the publishers Mark Allen, have turned up nothing. It was not included in the inventory of contents when the church was declared redundant in 1978; so probably disappeared some time before then. If anyone has any information about the memorial’s present whereabouts, we would love to hear from you. JB
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
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DPG in a modern crisis Jeffrey Doorn looks at the future
Following the hugely successful Murillo exhibition, which transformed space and layout, Dulwich Picture Gallery’s permanent collection, café and shop will be closed from 20 May to 11 June. This will put things back to normal in time for a new exhibition, A Crisis of Brilliance, 1908–1922. Six of the most distinctive British artists of the 20th century, who studied together at the Slade School of Art in London, will be reunited in a display of 70 of their works. It was their drawing teacher Henry Tonks who described his amazing pupils Paul Nash, C R W Nevinson, Stanley Spencer, Mark Gertler, Dora Carrington and David Bomberg as the school’s
last “crisis of brilliance”. They went on to develop their talents within several important movements and styles of the day, including Futurism, Vorticism and as part of the Bloomsbury Group. The exhibition will chart the artists’ development from student productions to mature works, including striking paintings recording and reacting to the horrors of the Great War. This special show is bound to be eye-opening and thought-provoking. It runs from 12 June to 22 September. If you have a chance to see the Murillo exhibition before it closes on 19 May, do, and also be sure to take in Bright Land – West of the Rockies, South of the Thames, stunning landscapes by Canadian Artist in Residence Liz Charsley-Jory.
Open Tuesday–Friday 10am-5pm; weekends and Bank Holiday Mondays 11am–5pm. Gallery and exhibition £11, seniors £10, cons £6; Friends and children free.
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
Image: Mark Gertler, ‘The Fruit Sorters’, 1914 13
“effie” Jeff Doorn reports on the latest dramatised account of the Ruskin marriage This summer should see the release of a new film, Effie Grey, about the strange marriage of John Ruskin and Euphemia (“Effie”) Gray. The film, like its subject, has aroused controversy before its premiere, and its release has been delayed until a copyright dispute between playwright Gregory Murphy and actor Emma Thompson, who wrote the screenplay, was resolved in a New York court earlier this year.
The life and career of Herne Hill’s most eminent former resident, and in particular theories about his non-consummated marriage, have been the subject of innumerable books, essays, plays, short stories, radio and television productions, films, even an opera. As early as 1912, a mere dozen years after Ruskin’s death, a silent film, The Love of John Ruskin, appeared. Plays include The Bride of Denmark Hill by Nell O’Day (like Thompson a film star turned writer); The Countess, by Gregory Murphy; and Mrs Ruskin, by the Canadian Kim Morrissey – Society members saw this in Croydon in 2003. The most recent screen version, a 2009 six-part BBC drama Desperate Romantics, is available in book form in Carnegie Library, as is Ruskin’s autobiography, Praeterita.
Speculation continues as to why Ruskin found his beautiful bride “not formed to excite passion”. Effie’s rejoinder that he “had imagined women were quite different to what he saw I was, and ... he was disgusted with my person the first evening” adds to the often prurient intrigue. The new film’s view is that Effie’s bankrupt father duped family friend Ruskin into marrying the vivacious 19-year-old. Six years later Ruskin may have engineered a love affair between frustrated Effie and attractive young painter Millais, and then induced Gray to push for annulment rather than face the worse scandal of divorce. The film, directed by Richard Laxton, promises a fine cast, with Dakota Fanning as Effie, Greg Wise as John Ruskin, Tom Sturridge as John Everett Millais, and Julie Walters in the role of Ruskin’s mother. Also appearing are Derek Jacobi, Robbie Coltrane, David Suchet, Emma Thompson and, intriguingly, Claudia Cardinale. It was partly shot in Venice, where indeed some of the drama in the marriage occurred, but Herne Hill having changed out of all recognition since John and Effie Ruskin lived here, other locations must have been found for scenes in their London home.
In 2011 there was also news of another Effie biopic, to star Keira Knightley no less. But since then, silence. Perhaps the project has been shelved, or perhaps it will be like the No. 68 bus (whose route passes the site of the Ruskin house) – two come along at the same time. What is the truth behind the Ruskin marriage? See the film (or films), read and view further, and judge for yourself. Don’t forget, both Effie and John Ruskin are featured in Herne Hill Personalities, available at £5 from the Society.
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
Above: two faces of Effie: Dakota Fanning and as painted by JE Millais
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aN UNBEARABLE FRENCHMAN Laurence Marsh looks at how the Edwardian law wrestled with dancing bears
The photograph shows a bear performing in a London street in the early 1900s. Such scenes were becoming less familiar but they were not exceptional. This report appeared in the Sunderland Daily Echo of 17 March 1903, though it surely originated in a London paper. “Poplar Walk Road” is now Poplar Road. Today it seems strange that the law on obstruction was the sole way to prevent such performances. In fact, it would seem that it was only with the passing of the Performing Animals (Regulation) Act 1925 that they finally disappeared from English streets, after what was of course a long history in our culture, stretching back to the early Middle Ages. My impression from 19-century newspaper reports concerning performing bears (reports of highway obstruction, and occasionally alarm when a bear escaped, but rarely if ever any that raise animal welfare concerns) is that bears and their minders were concentrated in Kent and London – a short distance from the continent (presumably in those days the Channel
A BEAR IN THE DOCK – A TROUBLESOME PRISONER An unkempt Frenchman, giving his name as “John Morris” and describing himself as a labourer, was charged at Lambeth on Saturday with wilfully and persistently causing an obstruction with a performing bear. The prisoner was accompanied years of age, and nearly fully grown. Police-Sergeant Coombs, 19P, stated that on Saturday morning he saw the prisoner and the bear in Poplar Walk Road, Herne Hill, surrounded by a crowd of about 200 children, some of whom narrowly escaped being run over by Mr Francis [the magistrate] as asked the prisoner what he wanted to say Prisoner: Well, the gentleman, he says, “You go away”, and I go away a little further and I perform again. I cannot do no harm. Mr Francis: Indeed, you can, and you do do an immense amount of harm. Not very long ago a horse was frightened in one of the streets of the West End by one of those bears, and ran away and knocked down a little child and killed him. It is a monstrous thing that these bears should be allowed in the streets at all. Why don’t you stay in your own Another Frenchman, giving the name of Peter Peterman, who was assisting the last prisoner, was also charged. He said he was only trying to get an honest living. Mr Francis (to the interpreter): Tell him he cannot get an honest living by causing an obstruction in this way. I wish I to take the beast away? Inspector Lay: The other man told me the bear would not go with anyone but himself. day. Sergeant Payne, the gaoler, was somewhat nonplussed by having a bear thrown on his hands. Pending ing-room, the owner, Morris, being allowed to stay with it.
steamship companies were more relaxed about such matters). So it is perhaps not surprising that the earliest surviving drawing by the visionary artist David Jones, growing up in Brockley (then in Kent), is of a dancing bear, drawn with extraordinary precocity at the age of seven in 1902. The same bear that attracted all the children in Poplar Road – or the same as in the photograph? We will never know.
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
Above: Performing Bear in London street, c. 1900 Below: David Jones (1895-1974) “Performing Bear” (1902) Extract: Sunderland Daily Echo, 17 March, 1903
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review of recent talks Laurence Marsh listens to Ian McInnes and Edmund Bird while Val Suebsang heard Susan Mossman’s talk on Denmark Hill’s ingenious resident
In February Ian McInnes returned to entertain us with more from his extensive collection of postcard images. The lamps may have been going out all over Europe, but there was no sign of this as Ian took us back to Herne Hill and Dulwich just before the First World War. He guided us from Herne Hill Station on foot, or possibly by hansom cab (the pace required it), finally ending up at the Crown and Greyhound in Dulwich Village. Allowing himself a fairly circuitous route, he was able to include any number of buildings and scenes that in the course of the last 100 years have changed or disappeared; such as a freehold house in Burbage Road to be bought for £700, or a police box at the entrance to Dulwich Village – there to keep out the riff-raff, suggested Ian. And all the empty streets! Not a car in sight, just the occasional tradesman’s cart and horse, and children freely playing. It is simply not possible in this space to cover all the stops along the way, but it included the magnificent Fire Station in Lordship Lane, where a lacklustre telephone exchange now stands; the Chalet, a pig farm that survived until the 1940s in the Triangle near the Horniman Museum; and the stylish Toksawa Hotel, the origin of whose name still remains a mystery, with its huge indoor tennis courts, and where the shade of Margaret Thatcher, a resident – briefly – of the gated residential development that took its place, may perhaps now linger. Following the March AGM Edmund Bird, Heritage Adviser to the GLA and Tf L, talked to us about Lambeth Architecture 1914–1939, the subject of his book, written together with Fiona Price and published last year. It is a follow-up to their earlier book on Lambeth’s Edwardian Splendours. Rather as with Victorian architecture, once reviled and neglected, there is growing interest in the architecture of the inter-war period. The often grandiloquent language of the Edwardian period was put to one side and a more restrained, pared down classicism introduced, often combined with buildings of greater size and height as the use of steel frames became common. Modern architecture and applied art in other countries were also a distinct influence, while at the same time a home-grown “Tudorbethan” style saw the rapid
expansion of private housing across what was still undeveloped land – in short, a fascinating diversity.
Architecture is also social history and Edmund’s richly illustrated talk showed us, to give just a few examples: the strong pride taken in local government, in the excellent extensions to Lambeth Town Hall and the LCC County Hall; the promotion of health and well-being for all citizens, in the Brockwell Lido and the South London Hospital; the investment in state education in Jessop Primary School, Herne Hill, and Henry Fawcett Primary School in Kennington. The architecture of this period remains a very visible presence today and Edmund’s immensely knowledgeable account reminded us of the significance of this important part of London’s heritage. “Onward Ever”: the motto of Sir Henry Bessemer, born 200 years ago this year, is fitting for a man who displayed phenomenal energy, creativity and invention throughout his life. From a young age Henry dabbled in inventions. As well as the most famous of these, the Bessemer Converter which, for the first time, enabled large quantities of quality steel to be cheaply produced from pig iron, he was responsible for many others including a method for ensuring that revenue stamps could not be re-used (1833), gold paint using bronze powder (1843), a sugar cane press (1849), a process for making plate glass (1850), rotating projectiles fired from canon (1854) and, less successfully, a paddle steamer incorporating a suspended saloon designed to keep stable in rough weather. Henry became very wealthy and was able to lease 40 acres of land stretching from Denmark Hill down to the railway. On this estate he built a palatial mansion. The house was on the site now occupied by Swinburne Court and the grounds included the land now occupied by Bessemer Grange School. The house was demolished after the Second World War and was replaced by the current housing estate. As well as an ornate grotto, lake and model farm, Henry also built the second largest telescope in the world in his garden. Sadly all this has disappeared. All this and far more was provided in an absorbing talk by Dr Susan Mossman, from the Science Museum, at the Society’s April meeting. If you would like to see an example of a Bessemer converter, there is one dating back to 1865 in the Science Museum in South Kensington. To mark his 200th anniversary year, this summer the Herne Hill Society will be publishing a short biography of Sir Henry Bessemer, including extensive material on the house and estate on Denmark Hill where he lived for the last 35 years of his life.
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
The Crown and Greyhound 1934 Art Deco design used in Dorchester Drive Henry Bessemer 16
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society events
OThER SOCIETIES’ EVENTS
At Herne Hill United Church Hall, at 7:30 for 7:45pm, unless otherwise stated. Wednesday 8 May “Protection of Ancient Buildings” by Matthew Slocombe. The Director, Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings outlines the history of SPAB, its philosophy and current work, with some local examples. Wednesday 12 June “Brixton Windmill’s Flour Power Future” by Jean Kerrigan. The Chair of Friends of Brixton Windmill will explain the mill’s history, restoration and education programme, and then outline plans to produce flour regularly before the 200th anniversary in 2016. Wednesday 11 September “100 Years of King’s College Hospital” Speaker tbc. An illustrated talk celebrating the hospital’s centenary.
Saturday 18 May at 11:00–5:00pm Friends of Nunhead Cemetery Open Day. Demonstrations, stalls, entertainment, refreshments, site tours including chapel and crypt. Entrance at Linden Grove SE15 Sunday 19 May at 2:00–6:00pm Dulwich Helpline Garden Safari. Explore four lovely private gardens plus Lettsom Gardens. Plant stall, tea & homemade cakes. Programmes/maps on the day from 189 Camberwell Grove SE5. Adults £5 children under 16 free. Tuesday 28 May at 7:00pm Lambeth Readers & Writers Festival: “Londonostalgia?” Historian and journalist James Heartfield explores London in literature. Carnegie Library, 188 Herne Hill Road SE24
Wednesday 9 October “Black Cultural Archives: Past, Present and Future” by Hannah Ishmail, Assistant Archivist. A look at the history of BCA and its work as it prepares to move into its new home in Raleigh Hall, Brixton.
The Wednesday meetings start promptly at 7:45pm – doors open from 7:30pm. Please try to arrive before the speaker is introduced, to avoid disturbance to others.
Sunday 2 June at 2:00pm Friends of Brockwell Park Annual Tree Walk. Join the Mayor of Lambeth, who will dedicate the trees which have been donated this year. Meet at the clock tower.
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
Monday 3 June at 8:00pm Streatham Society “Bygone Streatham – a Lost Corner of Wandsworth”
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Monday 15 July at 8:00pm Streatham Society “Art and Artists in Streatham” by Brian Bloice at “Woodlawns”, 16 Leigham Court Road SW16
by John Brown at “Woodlawns”, 16 Leigham Court Road SW16 Tuesday 4 June at 6:30pm Minet Film Club: Whale Rider (2002) Free showing of this mythic Maori tale, from the novel by Witi Ihimaera at Lambeth Archives, Minet Library 52 Knatchbull Road SE5
Thursday 18 July at 8:00pm Norwood Society “Streatham” by John Brown at Phoenix Centre, Westow Street SE19
Thursday 13 June at 7:30 for 8:00pm Dulwich Decorative & Fine Arts Society “Banks, Burgundy and Piracy – the 15th Century Artists of Bruges” at James Allen’s Girls’ School, East Dulwich Grove SE22 £7, students £1. Coffee & biscuits from 7:30 Sunday 16 June at 2:30pm Friends of Dulwich Picture Gallery: “Hidden Herne Hill”, a walk led by Ian McInnes, Chair of Dulwich Society. Meet outside Pedder Estate Agents, Half Moon Lane. Sites will include professional ladies’ hostel, Ruskin’s wall, the last 1820s villa, bowling club, modernist houses. £6, £5 Friends of DPG Monday 17 June at 8:00pm Streatham Society AGM & Review of the Society’s year 2012–2013. “Lambeth’s Trading Standards” by Robert Gardner & Mary Olumese at “Woodlawns”, 16 Leigham Court Road SW16 Thursday 20 June at 8:00pm Norwood Society: “Highway Robberies and other Villainous Events” by Brian Lancaster at Phoenix Centre, Westow Street SE19
Saturday 20 & Sunday 21 July 11:00–6:00pm Lambeth Country Show Society stalls, music, animals, rides, flowers, food and fun. Brockwell Park. Tuesday 8 August at 6:30pm Minet Film Club To Kill a Mockingbird (1962) Free showing of the Oscar winning film adapted from Harper Lee’s novel. Lambeth Archives, Minet Library 52 Knatchbull Road SE5 Thursday 15 August at 8:00pm Norwood Society “Crystal Palace Gothic – the Architecture of Dyball and others” by Alun Thomas at Phoenix Centre, Westow Street SE19 Friday 16 August from 8:00pm Friends of Brockwell Park Moth Night. David Gardner leads a viewing. Wear sensible shoes. No dogs, please. Meet at Walled Garden entrance.
Saturday 22 June at 1:00–4:00pm Friends of Ruskin Park Summer Fete. Community stalls and music concert at the bandstand. Sunday 23 June from 1:00–4:00pm Friends of Brockwell Park “The World of Bees” with Dr David Perkins. Discover more about these important insects. Brockwell Hall Saturday 29 June at 11:30 & 2:30; Sunday 30 June at 12:00 & 3:00 The Dulwich Players As You Like It by William Shakespeare at Dulwich Picture Gallery gardens. Saturday 6 & Sunday 7 July at 2:30 & 5:00pm at Dulwich Park American Gardens Tickets £7 on the grass, £5 under 12 from The Art Stationers, Dulwich Village SE21 Monday 1 July at 8:00pm Streatham Society “Lt Henry (Birdie) Bowers” by Ann Strathie at “Woodlawns”, 16 Leigham Court Road SW16 Tuesday 2 July at 6:30pm Minet Film Club: Lord of the Flies (1963) Free showing of the film adapted from William Golding’s novel. at Lambeth Archives, Minet Library 52 Knatchbull Road SE5 Sunday 14 July at 2:30pm: Lambethans Society: “Herne Hill” a heritage walk led by Alan Piper. Meet outside Loughborough Junction Station, Coldharbour Lane SE5
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
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OurCOUNCILLORS
Herne Hill Ward Lambeth
cboucher@lambeth.gov.uk 07814 567 914 Jim Dickson (Lab.) jdickson@lambeth.gov.uk 020 3149 6657 Leanne Targett-Parker (Lab.) ltargett-parker@lambeth.gov.uk 07805 942 796 Thurlow Park Ward Lambeth Ann Kingsbury (Lab.) akingsbury@lambeth.gov.uk 07814 567 594 Clare Whelan (Con.) cwhelan@lambeth.gov.uk 07946 218 525 John Whelan (Con.) jwhelan@lambeth.gov.uk 07802 412 761 Village Ward Southwark Robin Crookshank Hilton (Lib-Dem) robin.crookshank.hilton@southwark.gov.uk 020 8613 6046 Toby Eckersley (Con.) toby.eckersley@southwark.gov.uk 020 7701 3112 Michael Mitchell (Con.) michael.mitchell@southwark.gov.uk 07535 932 326 Your MP Tessa Jowell MP (Lab.) jowellt@parliament.uk House of Commons, London SW1A 0AA. 020 8333 1372 GLA Member Valerie Shawcross AM (Lab.) valerie.shawcross@london.gov.uk 020 7983 4407 GLA, City Hall, The Queen’s Walk, London SE1 2AA. Environmental Contacts Lambeth Streetscene: cleansing, rubbish removal, pot holes, abandoned vehicles, graffiti removal etc: 020 7926 9000 Southwark Streetscene (as above): 020 7525 2000 Carol Boucher (Lab.)
Advertising space is available in this Magazine for local businesses at the following rates: Full page £60 Half page £30 Quarter page £15 Eighth page £9 Classified £6 Full page advertisements are available at a cost of £60, limited to two per issue, with a premium of £80 for an advertisement on the back cover. Four insertions for the price of three. Full page is standard A4 (297 x 210mm). Either provide your own artwork, or we can help with typesetting, artwork and logo, all free of charge. Copy deadline for the Autumn issue is 22 September 2013. Contact Cynthia Anderson on 020 7274 3408 or e-mail: advertising@hernehillsociety.org.uk
More images from “a crisis of brilliance”
Dora Carrington, Mark Gertler, c.1909-11, pencil on paper © National Portrait Gallery, London
Paul Nash, The Cliff to the North, 1912-13, pen, Indian Ink and grey wash on paper © The Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge / Tate, London 2012
Herne Hill-Summer-2013
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