Issue #12 - October 2020

Herpetoculturemagazine.com

erpetoculture agazine Issue #12 -

Rethinking the Food of Feeders

October 2020

Collared Lizards in Captivity!

An interview with Chris Woodcock of GetHooked

Nile Monitors!

A Deep Dive Into the Morelia Spotlight: History of German Line Mr. Blue Jungle Carpets Medical Ailments in with Tim Morris Monitors

Palmetto Coast

Exotics

-- On the Cover --

Photo By Seth Cohen Unquestionable Quality Follow him on Instagram at @intothemojave for Colubrids - ofChondros - & More more his awesome work!

This Issue...

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Page 9 Page 33 Page 14 Page 23

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Copyright Š 2020 by Herpetoculture Magazine all rights reserved.

This publication or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

Twelfth Edition www.herpetoculturemagazine.com

Contributors Justin Smith - Publisher -

Billy Hunt - Publisher -

Phil Wolf - Executive Contributor -

Kai Kolodziej - Contributor -

Andrew Paris - Contributor -

Paul Donovan - Contributor -

Chris Woodcock - Contributor -

Tim Morris - Contributor -

Kyle Vargas - Contributor -

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Dr. Lenard M. Hughes Carley Jones - Contributor - Contributor -

Brandon Louth - Contributor -

From The Publishers’ Desk Welcome to the 12th issue! Man, has a year gone by fast and what a year it has been in the hobby too. Highs and lows that will be remembered for a long time. But as we always do in this hobby, we adapted and overcame a lot of obstacles. Everything from legislation to national shows being cancelled. We are slowly going back to normal with the Daytona Reptiles Breeders Expo and NARBC in St. Louis both going on as planned with all the rules we have grown accustomed to during these times. These shows give us a glimpse of hope that we will go back to how things were before the pandemic started.

This first year of the magazine has been a fun ride and we plan to continue to bring you quality content. Justin and I have already brainstormed about some ideas for the future of the magazine that we are sure you guys will appreciate. Thank you all for the continued support. You guys are the reason we do this! Here’s to another year!

Justin Smith & Billy Hunt -Publishers-

Herpetoculture Magazine

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: w s e e i v r e u t n e v ook R d

A B : p y r e e H e Odyss cally-

l i e i g t v o o p l e L o R t l e l p i r B nes e o J y H y b e of a ted Life Review By Carl n e i r O I could spend forever reading and reviewing books pumped out by ECO Herpetological Distribution and Publishing. They are, for the most part, light, happy and a great way to start the day if you read before doing anything else, like myself. It’s such a gift to be reading the words of Bill Love. There are/were so many incredible people who influenced the reptile industry who don’t have any interest in putting their thoughts and experiences on paper. Some of them just didn’t get the chance to nor took the time. Reading books by people I admire makes them so much more approachable in the real world. My hands will still be gross and sweaty if I ever get to meet the Loves, but at least I won’t be unable to squeak out a greeting like the first time I met a few of my favorite breeders.

Bill is a delightfully off-the-wall and explicit writer. His paragraphs are injected with as much humor I can only assume he lives his everyday life with. When I laughed out loud reading “I was young, dumb and full of cu...” I felt like I was talking with a friend. Let’s cut down to brass tacks here, all herp freaks are perverts and we know it.

The flow of writing is pleasant and effortless as Bill segways from one story to the next, one chapter to the next, until you realize in a single sitting you’ve been reading for an hour and a half. He isn’t afraid to bounce around the timelines of his life but doesn’t confuse the reader by doing so without a clear point of launching into the next adventure.

There’s chaos but with rhyme and reason. I like it.

This book covers almost everything herpers and keepers want to read about. Adventures both in and out of the states, the trials and rewards of starting your own business, memorable moments with friends and a few not-friends. Bill is unapologetic in his inclusions with changes he’d like to see in the world as well as owning up to pretty stupid mistakes he’s made in the past. To err is human, and Bill’s style of writing helps us readers relate to their own embarrassing moments in the hobby that we wish we could take back. Somewhere out there is a recording of me, drunk as a skunk (this was before I quit drinking), being loud and giggling stupidly. A million apologies again to my dear herp buddies who had to suffer me that weekend, and thank you for having mercy on me and withholding that audio lest I be forced to Wheeler myself off the edge of the Grand Canyon. Happy reading!

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n a c i r e Am ics s n s i a s l C ard

z i L d e r a l y h l t t u i o o L v C CaptiBy BrandonidaJt.e 2021 and DVM C

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The collared lizard, encompassing the genus Crotaphytus, is starting to rise in popularity in the pet trade. As captive breeding and husbandry knowledge has allowed for more availability and better care for this species in captivity, their vast variety in colors and care similar to a bearded dragon has made several owners acquire them as pets. There are currently nine known species with five being native to the United States and only four found in Mexico, with two being threatened and endangered. (Hammerson, 2007) Various state laws; limiting collection, prohibiting sales, or even preventing breeding, protect many of these species. It is important to know the laws for the species you are interested in and the state you live in before acquiring one.

The collared lizard ranges throughout the Southwest United States and into Mexico, living in a warm desert climate. Preferring mountainous or hilly slopes with large rock outcroppings or downed branches and brush to perch up on for basking. The collared lizards are known to be pure insectivores, which is part of the carnivore family. Despite the name they can also chase down and eat smaller lizards on two legs reaching speeds of 16 mph. (Snyder, 1962) This article will cover key points on why to choose a captive bred collared lizard over a wild caught one. As well as their husbandry needs, including temperatures, lighting, humidity, feeding and enclosures.

In addition to a brief overview of their breeding process including durations and processes needed to be successful.

Captive VS Wild: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly Having several native species in the United States, it is important to get the proper paperwork and documentation with your collared lizard when you purchase it, either being a collection permit if wild caught or an invoice/ contract from a breeder proving it is captive bred. The most common species is the Eastern Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus collaris. For this species there are some states that allow the commercial collection of wild caught specimens, while in others it is illegal to collect and sell wild caught individuals and some states even prohibit the sale of the progeny, such as Arizona. Other species such as the Great Basin Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus bicinctores, has more states that prohibit the sale then allow it, so it is important to get the proper paperwork or know where the ones you look to purchase are coming from. Moreover, other native species such as

the Baja Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus vestigium, and Sonoran Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus nebrius, can be possessed, but are listed as non-commercial species in the states they are native to and cannot be sold, bartered, or traded in any state. Finally, there is a native species of collared lizard called the Reticulated Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus reticulatus, which is a ‘Black Listed� threatened species that cannot be sold.

With the breakdown of native species above out of the way, we get into the bad and ugly side of getting a wild caught versus a captive bred collared lizard. To begin, the average lifespan of wild collared lizards is only 4-6 years, while in captivity you see 10-12 years in captive bred animals. All wild caught Collared Lizards should be quarantined and dewormed in addition to being eased into captivity. Sadly, most sold in pet stores and some reptile shows tend to be wild caught and have NOT been put through this process. Leading to the misleading mindset that Collared Lizards do not do well in captivity, since they would then have GI parasites or other illnesses and not thrive long term only to pass away.

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However, if captive bred, you do not need to quarantine or deworm for parasites (unless a feeder source has given them some) and overall CBB animals are a lot healthier and more likely to thrive. Moreover, with a wild caught collared lizard you do not get the genetic history, have any knowledge of previous illness or exposure, as well as the uncertainty about the exact age (unless it is a juvenile). Whereas, through a reputable breeder, you will be provided with all of this information.

Lighting

Since they are a desert species, Collared Lizards need a high output of UVB lighting to allow for their needed D3 production and to maintain proper health. In addition to UVB, a basking area is needed. Depending on the source used, UVB can be included in this bulb. A list of some bulbs below meet the required needs of UVB for these lizards.

If you should take anything away from this section it should be to avoid wild caught collared lizards and seek out a breeder for a healthier and longer living lizard. Ask the breeder if they can sell them where you are located and know your local laws since they are native to the United States.

Husbandry Needs Temperatures

Collared Lizards are a desert species that loves to perch up and bask during the day. Ideal temperatures for their basking spot should be between 95-105 degrees Fahrenheit avoiding anything higher as they have been proven to retreat from the basking site at higher temperatures. This will allow them get the proper UVB exposure and temperatures for proper digestion of their food. The cooler parts of the enclosure should maintain a minimum of 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.

Nighttime temperatures should be maintained between 70-79 degrees Fahrenheit to allow for digestion through the night and preventing any induction of a stupor or pseudo-brumation.

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Humidity

Even though collared lizards are a dry climate species, they still require a certain amount of humidity to allow for proper shedding as well as helping to maintain hydration and overall health. Their ideal humidity should range between 20-40% unless they have a medical predisposition for a shedding issue that requires more humidity to allow for sheds to happen properly

Feeding

Being pure insectivores means collared lizards’ main source of food should either be crickets or dubia roaches. If accessible grasshoppers can be an acceptable main source of food, however, avoid any wild feeders at all costs to prevent infection of an unwanted parasite or toxins. Neonates should be fed pinhead or ¼ inch dubia roaches, while babies and juveniles should be fed ½ inch crickets or dubia roaches as a main food source. Adults can be fed ¾ inch to large crickets or dubia roaches as the bulk of their diet. Due to size, fat content, or

overall nutrient breakdown, the following food items can be fed as snacks, but should NOT be fed as a main source of food. This list includes mealworms, superworms, hornworms, waxworms, feeder lizards, and pinkie mice. Greens can be offered no more than once weekly, but know that collared lizards lack the GI flora to have any benefit from greens nutritionally unless they are dusted with a supplementation and thus should be avoided as a main source of food.

Enclosures

This is one of the most important and commonly incorrect aspects of care for collared lizards in the reptile community.

It is proven that adult collareds REQUIRE a minimum sized enclosure with a floor space of 48 inches by 18 inches to reduce stress and exhibit natural behaviors. This equates to a standard 75-gallon enclosure and since Crotaphytus are known to cohabitate in groups of one male and multiple females, this is ideal for one male and two females. TWO MALES SHOULD NEVER BE HOUSED TOGETHER DUE TO THE RISK OF FIGHTING. It then is shown that for every 25 gallons (or equivalent) and larger, another female can be added without additional stress. Babies and juveniles can temporarily be housed in smaller enclosures no smaller than a 40-gallon breeder, but will need an adult enclosure by 8-12 months of age.

Enclosures should also have a fresh source of water daily. An option of a moving water source may entice drinking more often. In addition, a nice sized hide that can fit the entire lizard inside is ideal. Having plenty of options for enrichment allows for a happier and healthier lizard with multiple basking perches, logs, rocks, branches, bridges, and other objects that allow for climbing or potential hunting. Moreover, the ideal substrate for collared lizards is “WASHED” play sand. It is important to have a washed source that has had sharp silicates removed. Other acceptable substrates include ecoearth, a mixture of play sand and ecoearth, floor tile, or large rocks that cannot fit into their mouths.

Quick Insight Into Breeding Brumation

One of the most dangerous processes needed with breeding collared lizards is a 3-5 month brumation aka hibernation process to allow for the proper hormonal levels necessary to breed. Before this process the breeder animals should be prepped and healthy since this can easily be a death sentence if not done properly.

Breeding

Female collareds get a very cool gravid blush where females get red patterns and stripes that are caused by an increase in progesterone at the beginning of egg production. Normally, once mated or at the first signs of blushing, it takes 21-28 days before females lay their eggs.

Eggs

Once laid, depending on the temperatures used that can help determine the neonates sex, the eggs should hatch between 40-60 days. With higher temperatures in their range having shorter incubation times and lower temperatures having longer incubation times.

References: Hammerson, GA, Lavin P, Mendoza QF. 2007. Crotaphytus reticulatus. The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species 2007: e.T64012A12735138. http://dx.doi.org/10.2305/IUCN.UK.2007.

RLTS.T64012A12735138.en.

Snyder RC. 1962. Adaptations for bipedal locomotion of lizards.

Am. Zool. 2: 191±203.

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Getting Medical with Monitors with Dr. Lenard M. Hughes

I have been asked to write a series of articles about the research I am doing with a wide range of reptiles. I established a non-profit corporation, Reptile Kingdom Inc, in 2018 to set up a facility to contribute to the knowledge of medical and surgical care of reptiles and their husbandry. My interest in reptiles began very early in my life.

My father brought me my first snake at the age of 6 months (my age not the snake’s). I grew up in a family with a strong emphasis on the scientific study of nature. I majored in chemistry in my undergraduate years, attended graduate school in biological sciences and then attended medical school while taking many courses in veterinary sciences.

My main interest has always been in surgery and especially congenital anomalies. I completed my residencies in general surgery, urology and fellowship in pediatric surgery. The field of surgery encompasses in depth knowledge of adequate nutrition and metabolism so an animal or human can tolerate the stress of surgery. Otherwise the outcome can be dismal. There are many conditions that occur in children developmentally that illustrate just how closely related we are to the animal kingdom. Just for example, there are human children born rarely with cloacas that must be repaired, a very complex surgery.

As an adult, while still in residency I purchased a baby green iguana and my collection of these beautiful creatures gradually escalated until

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now where I own about 75 reptiles at my sanctuary, research facility, and sometimes rehabilitation center. Had I attended veterinary school, I would have completed a fellowship in reptile medicine, something very few veterinarians have ever accomplished. I’m not sure why, it could be they feel there is no money in treating reptiles or that most of them receive such minimal training of reptile diseases during their course of study. More and more of the population now have reptiles as pets, breed reptiles, or their livelihood depends on reptiles. So reptile health and well being is very important, not to mention they deserve better veterinary care.

I read the reptile literature avidly but find knowledge is very limited in many areas. There is much more work and research that needs to be done. The field of medical herpetology is in its infancy and needs many more dedicated individuals. I will attempt to share some of my knowledge and findings with the herp community and hopefully make life much better for reptiles. I have formal education in parasitology which is essential knowledge needed to care for these animals. I am able to identify the most common parasites of reptiles and am learning more

about their treatment as time goes on, but that will be covered later in another article. One parasite that deserves mentioning is cryptosporidiosis which is lethal in most reptiles with no known treatment to date to eradicate the parasite, and most vets recommend euthanasia. That is one disease I am currently trying different treatment methods to at least control the parasite so your animal can live out their life.

One of the species that has really caught my attention is monitor lizards (though I have never seen a snake I did not like) and I have several tortoises that I love dearly. Monitor lizards are one of the most intelligent groups of reptiles next to crocodilians.

They are a very interesting family of reptiles, with about 53 or more different species in the family Varanidae. They range in size from about 21 centimeters to about 3 - 4 meters in length. Their weights vary from a low of 17 grams to over 100 kilograms, as seen in Komodo Dragons. They originate from various regions of Africa, Asia, and Australia. They are all insectivores or carnivores with the exception of one species that eats fruit. The first fossils of Varanid like reptiles were first present about 100 million years ago, so it is an older group that has lived on this planet for a long time.

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I receive many contacts from persons with monitor lizards that have taken their animals to an “exotic vet� and they just do not have a good understanding of the physiology and metabolism of these alien creatures.

The majority of seriously ill reptiles die which is very sad and should not happen. Just for example, the half life of an antibiotic in reptiles, that is the time that one dose remains in the bloodstream before another dose is needed, is exceptionally long compared to mammals.

Some of the species have been bred in captivity but there have been many problems breeding them. I mentor monitor owners that are having medical issues with their lizards and many of these problems are related to reproduction or metabolism. I, myself, had a 6 year old Savannah monitor that developed a liver tumor, she passed about 6 months later. A veterinarian did open surgery but did not have the skills to remove a large liver tumor, and the reptile pathologist was rather vague about what type of tumor, whether malignant or not.

Another Black Throat Monitor that I purchased at the age of two years from someone else, had follicular stasis, which I will explain later. The lizard underwent surgery by a veterinarian to remove her ovaries, follicles and oviducts but died the next morning, I expect from too much blood loss and not receiving any fluids during her surgery: most veterinarians do not have the skill to start an intravenous line in a reptile because they usually require a cut down technique, and they do not seem to appreciate that reptiles also need fluids to support their cardiovascular system during a major surgery. Fluids can also be given subcutaneously or intracoelomic. I understand that the majority of veterinarians are mostly trained to treat dogs and cats, and a few call themselves exotic vets but have not completed the two year fellowship in reptile medicine or zoo medicine.

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A cephalosporin might need to be given 3-4 times per day in a mammal but only needs to be given once every 3 days in a reptile, due to totally different processing of the medication. The kidneys are more primitive in reptiles and the liver functions quite differently. All of these things need to be considered when giving an anesthetic agent, or you can easily kill the reptile. They do not metabolize the anesthetic agents like a mammal. I just recently had a friend lose a beautiful, adult, female Nile Monitor. An anesthetic was given to get a liver biopsy found to be hepatic lipidosis, but because the liver was impaired the lizard could not properly metabolize the anesthetic agent and died the following day.

The amount of anesthetic could have been dramatically reduced. This should have been a treatable illness.

Pre-ovulatory follicular stasis occurs quite frequently in female monitor lizards in captivity. To try and explain what this is, female lizards form ovarian follicles followed by ovulation or reabsorption. With follicular stasis, the developing follicles do not pass down the oviduct but remain attached to the ovaries. This can be the result for many reasons, things like poor nutrition, lack of activity, the fact that reptiles in captivity are bred throughout the year not just during their normal hormonal cycles. Even for other unknown reasons, like no male being present, or even low calcium levels in the female.

Signs of follicular stasis include restlessness, pacing, abdominal distension, anorexia, and later lethargy and dehydration. The best diagnostic technique is ultrasound.

The best treatment is ovariectomy and I would recommend removal of the oviducts. If one plans to breed the animal you can give her a nest, supplemental calcium twice a day, and tube feed her if she does not eat on her own, another topic I can cover later. Oxytocin will not help. If her condition deteriorates it is vital to keep her warm, provide adequate hydration, something most vets do not think about, and prepare for surgery.

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Hepatic lipidosis can be lethal to your monitor. This is the result of fat accumulating in the liver. The cause of this is multifactorial but a high fat diet with lack of exercise and obesity are definitely high on the list. Female lizards are more susceptible especially if not bred because they accumulate fat and do not lose the fat through egg production. Animals in captivity do not have the opportunity to undergo periods of fasting like they would in the wild. Any lizard or other reptile in captivity should have their weight recorded regularly, records kept to document any change in appetite, or a change in the stools. While on this subject I would highly recommend that accurate records be kept of each animal. I keep a book of all feedings or refusals to eat, weigh each animal at least every 2-3 months, record all sheds, and any changes in appetite or stool consistency. Again ultrasound is probably the best method to view the liver and a biopsy may be indicated if the liver is enlarged or any of the above findings are present.

some of the issues I have discussed but do it in a nonconfrontational manner. I feel sure they want to help save your animal but reptile medicine is a very complex field and most vets simply do not have the time to read the literature except some of those at academic centers.

I have tried to discuss several of the most lethal and more common diseases seen in monitor lizards. Of course, many reptile deaths are from poor husbandry and/or parasites. They also can get cancers and have metabolic disorders especially of calcium metabolism. I hope this is not overly technical to be useful to most reptile keepers. When you do consult a veterinarian to examine your reptile, you can be helpful by reminding him of

Lenard M. Hughes, MD Reptile Kingdom Inc.

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Be alert to any changes in your reptiles’ activity, appetite, appearance and frequency of the stools, and in their level of responsiveness to you. They are like a very young child or human infant who can not describe where they feel bad. That is the type of patient I treated most of my life so reptiles are just another patient with the same challenges.

I’m looking forward to writing more medically related articles about reptile health. You can always let me know if there is a particular topic you are interested in learning about more in depth.

Creating Mr. Blue A (Not-So) Short History

By Tim Morris

Everyone has a story to tell about how they got

started in something. For my journey into the world of green tree pythons (chondros), it was the book “The Reproductive Husbandry of Boas and Pythons” by Ross & Marzec published in 1990 as a follow up to their 1978 book, “The Python Breeding Manual.” I ordered this book (cover cost in 1992 was $75.00) during the late winter of 1992 through a magazine ad from a reptile supplies dealer on the west coast called Bush Herpetological. The book was regarded as the “must have” manual to boid reproduction. I recommend it to anyone who can find a copy (I know they reprinted at some point in the early 2000’s).

In that book there were several pictures of incredible looking yellow and red neonate green tree pythons – they sure looked awesome! What’s more was that many of the green tree pictures (as well as Sanzinia and Rainbow Boas) were credited to a man who apparently worked at the National Zoological Park in Washington, D.C. named Trooper Walsh. At that point, I realized a reconnaissance mission would need to be done! So, my nephew (Sean Stewart) and I took a road trip to the National Zoo to see if we could meet this Trooper Walsh. We arrive at the reptile house with our radars looking to lock in on any zoo staff. If I recall correctly, we initially spotted one person who was dressed in the typical zoo-issued khakis but upon quick examination of his nameplate, this guy was NOT Trooper. The search continued. The National Zoo’s reptile house is a large oval with keeper access around the perimeter with a center oval of exhibits that surrounded the inner keeper area.

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So we pressed on and made a few rounds in the building. We eventually wound up camped out in front of the array of large croc & alligator exhibits. As we peer into the glass-fronted exhibits, we notice that to our right there is a keeper access door and to our left there is also an access door (it’s about 3035 ft between the doors across the front of the croc exhibits).

Out of the right door comes this husky guy wearing a National Zoo issued khaki shirt and shorts – no shoes but bare feet and carrying a 5 gallon bucket full of rodents… he walks right past us and, mesmerized, I quickly glanced at his name tag and “I thought” (key word “thought!”) it said “Trooper” on it. No sooner had my brain processed this, he went into the door to the left. I tried to convince my nephew that I had a positive ID and that we should go knock on that door!

After about 5 or so minutes of haggling back and forth as to who’s going to knock – we finally worked up the nerve. We knock (I don’t remember exactly which one of us did it!) on the door and, like Lurch from the Addams Family, the door slowly cracks open and a head pops through the crack and a voice says, “Can I help you?” I think at that point Sean and I looked at each other in shock that we had reached the end of the rainbow! I’m sure we gazed at him as if he were the president or some huge celebrity! He was gracious enough to let us in the back keeper area. I remember we had a short conversation – mainly about what our herp interests are etc… but honestly I wasn’t paying too much attention. My attention was more focused trying to figure out what was in a row of tubs down the way along the wall. These whitish tubs were what Trooper used to house off-exhibit green tree pythons – I don’t think I figured that out on that trip.

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One of the things I learned that day was that the National Zoo (as do many zoos) had volunteer keeper aide programs.

I promptly filled out and submitted an application figuring it would be my best shot and trying to get to know this guy Trooper and learn more about these Green Tree Pythons. I wound up volunteering several summers during breaks from college. During that first summer I tried my best to work my way into the graces of this legend. As it turned out, Trooper can be quite fickle – one day talking to you like you’ve known each other for a while and at other times walking right past you (sometimes more than a few times) and not saying one word. It was clear to me early on that he was “the king” down there.

Through some volunteer work I was also doing with Pete Kahl, I learned of the National Reptile Breeders Expo (NRBE) that was then held in Orlando, FL. Pete talked up the reptile event as if it was THE mecca of all shows… THE one to go to. I’m now in my second summer (1993) volunteering at the zoo and I remember sitting upstairs (where the offices and staff lounge were) one afternoon sometime late July as Trooper was also there and he was in a seemingly good mood. So I decided to start a conversation asking about the show and feeling him out about Green Tree Pythons. I asked him if he attends the NRBE – he said, “yes.” I asked him if he would be selling chondros – he paused, looked at me, and said, “no, I don’t have any to sell.”

He continued, “Tim, I don’t just sell animals to anyone you know?” To be honest I don’t remember my specific response but I’m sure it was something like, “whoa, I guess I’ve gotten nowhere with all the sweat and work I’ve done here now going on 2 summers! How does one work their way up to being ‘good enough’ to own one of these majestic creatures?”

at her and said, “what may I help you with my dear?” She started asking him about Green Tree Pythons. Trooper was showing her what they had to offer. At that time, she had always leaned more towards yellow neos while I liked the red/maroon types (and, at that point, not for ANY particular reason). He worked on her in order to steer her into considering a red/maroon animal stating that they went through “a more dramatic” color change.

So there we were, deciding on our very first chondro, it would be a maroon/red neo. Trooper, being the quick-witted salesman he was, talked her into an animal (TW 13.93) that was a neo but since it had hatched in February of that year, it had a few more months on the others and was also a bit larger – AND, $200 more.

So now it’s mid-August – show time! Down we go driving to Orlando. Along for the trip were 2 of my nephews (Sean and his now infamous brother Christian – though at that time he had little to no interest in snakes) and my girlfriend – we drove all night to get down there. The first day of the show I sought out where Trooper would be hiding out – and there he was - working behind a table of a business called “Ophiological Services” – this was Eugene Bessette and Trooper’s snake farming cooperative. I knew of Eugene and also that he and Trooper had some sort of business arrangement. In fact, it was once told to me that Eugene and Trooper swore that they had known each other in a previous life and that likely accounted for them crossing paths in this current lifetime. And, if you know Gene (as he’s called), this certainly fits something he would come up with! More importantly, on their table, was an abundance of Green Tree Pythons of all ages with some being offered at exorbitant prices!

Welcome to the “designer” chondro kingdom! I remember my girlfriend going right up to Trooper and saying “so… you just don’t sell to anyone huh?!” (she knew of the story Trooper gave me at the zoo and was quick to call him out on it). With a sheepish grin – something akin to the Grinch, Trooper looked

Upon being questioned as to why we should spend $200 more (the “standard” price at that time was $750), Trooper simply said that “being bigger, it’s more likely to make the drive home back to Maryland.” Of course we bit. Hook, line and sinker! So, that was the first day. On day 2, again, I was lurking a lot around the OS table – probably more like stalking! In a break between the waves of prospective customers, there was an exchange between Trooper and I that culminated with him reaching under the table and handing me this “Crystal Light” container (this was his favorite travelling container for neo chondros) and said “Here, I want you to have this… this was the smallest green tree I’ve ever hatched and it was a twin but it’s egg mate died early on.” He continued, “I don’t think it’ll amount to much but I’m sure you will give it a good home.” This little “runt” neo was “TW 2-27-93” – one day to become the sire to “Mr. Blue” and eventually earn the name “Legend” for his prolific breeding resume.

ABOVE: Given the name “Legend.” This male was given to me by Trooper as a thank you for my volunteer service to the National Zoo. He was a twin – his eggmate died. He was among the smallest chondros hatched by Trooper. And, of course Trooper told me “he didn’t think he’d amount to much…” words he would later reconsider!

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So here I was, the proud owner of not one, but two Green Tree Pythons. For the rest of that year and into the beginning of the next, I worked to raise these two critters and they joined my modest collection of two other snakes – a Rainbow Boa and an Emerald Tree Boa. I realized looking over the data cards that Trooper provided me that I had litter mates (13.93 & 2-27-93) and began to plant the seed with him about swapping one of them so one day I could breed, at least somewhat, unrelated parents. The data cards and genealogies were huge selling points of OS. During that time, I also made it a point to share with Trooper the growth progress of both of these animals – especially the “runt” which “wasn’t likely to amount to much.” I hadn’t yet determined the sexes but in the spring of 1994, Pete Kahl had stopped by and offered to sex the two kids. They were a pair! At first, Trooper was lukewarm about doing a swap and he certainly made it clear early on that IF he were to do such a trade it would definitely not be for the “runt” twin (2-2793) he gave me… instead, later that year (in August) we did a trade. I don’t recall the specifics on where or how the trade went down but he took female 13.93 and, in return, sent me home with female TW-48-93…. This girl, unbeknownst to me (and perhaps Trooper to a degree at that time), was part of a legendary litter of females that included “Powder” and “Joan Collins.” This is the girl that would, in about a year and a half, produce “Mr. Blue.”

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Fall of 1995 I was still volunteering both at the zoo and at Pete Kahl’s. He was the first to produce albino boas and I was lucky enough to see the birth of that first albino! He had a pretty diverse collection and his setups utilized a mix of wooden cages and some Neodesha cages. Neodesha Plastics of Neodesha, Kansas was owned by a guy named Ted Pietz whose company made their name making ABS bed liners for pick-up trucks. They also dabbled in reptile cages and some zoos today still have some of their original slant front caging. Around 1994 or so, with input from several major breeders like Pete, Bob Clark and others, Neodesha started making more traditional caging and that year, among many other new cage releases, they were also introducing arboreal specific models.

Pete was about to remake his entire basement, which housed his collection, all in Neodesha cages. I was given the opportunity to acquire cages at a good discount if I added them into Pete’s order. That order, by the way, was delivered via a semi with a loaded flatbed full of cages direct from Ted. I ordered 2 of their new arboreal cages and these became the main housing for my (now adult) pair of green trees.

In addition to all Neodesha cages, Pete was also going to outfit each cage with the latest in temperature regulators – Microclimates. Microclimates were made in England and imported (I believe exclusively by Bob Clark) and they were (likely) the very first pulse proportional dimming thermostats.

Pete used these to regulate infrared heat bulbs as heat panels were not around then (at least not within the reptile world) and thus heat lamps were the heat source of choice. Naturally, I chose to outfit my new Neodesha arboreal cages in the same way.

In October of 1995, I began my attempt at breeding green trees. At this point the male 2-27-93, hatched in February of 1993, was about 3 months shy of his 3rd birthday. The female, 48-93, was hatched in April (25th) of that same year (1993) so she was not even 2.5 years old upon first introduction. Young, she was a fast grower and definitely “of size” to breed – one complete shed I measured was 6’4” and I assumed sheds were probably around 10% longer than the actual length – so she was a solid 5’ + animal.

Her rapid growth was likely due to the “Trooper Walsh power feeding regimen.” I don’t think he fed heavily to speed up their development, I think he just felt that in the wild they’ll take the biggest things they can handle – and fed accordingly.

The male was introduced on the evening of October 18th and first of many copulations were observed the very next morning.

Something I quickly figured out with green trees (and other snakes as well) was that if they were going to breed, the 1st copulations occurred rather quickly. Several more copulations were observed in October and into November. The male was removed in late November and mid body swelling (associated with ovulation) was observed on the 4th of December. To make sure the “deal was sealed,” I reintroduced the male on the 15th of December but removed him shortly thereafter on the 28th as no more copulations were observed.

One major hurdle when it comes to Green Tree Pythons is incubating their eggs. In those days, if you didn’t have a Forma Scientific Incubator you were definitely better off trying to do maternal incubation. At that time, both Trooper and Eugene were fine tuning what they considered to be THE master artificial incubation protocol – not something they shared openly. This protocol was worked out over many closely monitored maternal incubation trials (female 48.93 was from a maternally incubated clutch). What they worked out was that the female tended to maintain lower temps for the first 2 weeks (low-mid 80’s) then during weeks 3 through 6 ramped up the temps to around 90 then the final 2 weeks lowered them back down to the low-mid 80’s. Therefore, they replicated this temperature scheme in their artificial attempts and along with high-end Forma incubators started increasing their success with artificial incubation of this species.

Of course I didn’t have the means to acquire one of these incubators and so naturally I planned on maternal incubation (and to be quite honest, I’m pretty sure at this point the thought of her rejecting her eggs, or not incubating them for some reason never occurred to me – sometimes ignorance is bliss!). So having read several of Trooper’s papers on breeding a plethora of boas and pythons, I made it a point to not only take careful records but also, as best as I could find, I planned to put temperature monitoring probes everywhere. Trooper used Atkins Thermocouples for his monitoring of eggs and coil temps along with simple mercury thermometers. I had no clue where to find a thermocouple or know what they were. So I made due with Cooper min/max digital thermometers, a hygrometer that was part of a thermometer (probably an early zoo med product) and a Raytek non-contact temperature gun which just started to find their way into many breeders’ array of monitoring tools.

Above - Below: This was my first snake room. I had a 2-bedroom apartment and one of the bedrooms was for… you guessed it! Neodesha cages were very common back then. You can still find some of these slant-front cages behind the scenes at some zoos. They weren’t very space efficient – and this was before even Vision cages and heat panels…

The set up for the maternal incubation was the female’s Neodesha cage. It was a 2’x2’x2’ cube with a single opening, circular (screened), vent in the center of the top of the cage.

Regulating the main heat source, a 75-watt infrared heat lamp, was a Microclimate that also featured a night drop. I created a nest box from a small Rubbermaid “Rough Tote” box. I put about 2-3 inches of dry sphagnum in the box.

Outside the box I put about 2-3 inches of soaked sphagnum throughout the floor of the cage. I placed the nest box on one side of the enclosure and I put a heat mat under the opposite side (under the soaked sphagnum) in order to keep the humidity levels high. I also placed the heat lamp as far to the opposite side of the next box as possible. It was impressed upon me early on from Trooper that it was imperative that the sphagnum in the nest box remain dry while maintaining high overall ambient humidity in the enclosure.

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Winter 1995-1996 For several years I would write out the photoperiod protocol I was going to follow along with the temperature cycles. Starting in November, I cut back the light from 12 hours to 10 hours. The duration of the daytime heat was also reduced from 11 hours to 9.

Nighttime temperatures were allowed to drop into the upper 60’s while daytime high temperatures (measured at the uppermost perch under the heat lamp) were allowed to go to the mid to upper 80’s sometimes maxing out in the low 90’s. This stage of temperature cycling continued unchanged from late October through late December when nighttime lows were slowly increased to the upper 70’s to low 80’s until egg deposition.

During this time, I carefully watched where the female was choosing to be. If she was spending most of her time on the cool side I slightly cut temps back; If she was constantly seeking heat, I would slowly increase temperatures. This way of observing was a result of yet another of the many invaluable lessons that Trooper passed along to me – this one was “watch the animals, learn from them, they will show you what they need.” So, who’s to argue with a legend as he was also the mastermind behind the set up for the National Zoo’s enclosure and breeding of Komodo Dragons – they were the first zoo outside of Indonesia to breed these lizards in captivity. During the latter period of gestation, I observed the female preferring to stay mainly in the cooler area of the cage – her body temperature (measured with the Raytek) consistently ranged from a nighttime cool temperature of 78-80oF to mid to upper 80’s during the day. The nest box was placed into the enclosure around mid-December. Up to about 10 days before deposition, she occasionally went into and out of the box. From February 1st on, she went into the nest box for good.

Eggs were laid on the 11th of February (1996) 15 days after her prelay shed (on January 27th). She took what I observed to be her last drink of water about 3 days before this occurred. There was a small water bowl placed on top of the nest box right by the top opening.

By this point, the night drop was turned off entirely and an average nest box temperature of about 82-84 F was the goal. Occasionally max temps would reach around 86-87 while nighttime lows ranged around 80. Another lesson passed down from TW was that as the eggs developed, they would then start producing heat of their own.

Therefore, it was recommended that nest box temps be attenuated accordingly. At about week 6 (of an anticipated 8-week incubation) I turned back the heat more and the “new” target was 80-82 F allowing the eggs to roll on their own and, of course, the female would make up any difference through thermoregulating. Regardless of the ambient temperatures, the coil temperatures (measured with the Raytek) were consistently maintained from about 87 to 90 F. During

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Above : At this point, the female was in the nest box maternally incubating the eggs. Details about the maternal set up are in the article. the maternal incubation, I would occasionally peek in on the female. During these interruptions, she was alert and occasionally I’d lightly poke at her coils to get a look at the eggs. She tolerated the intrusions and I would learn that even when one (or more) eggs went bad during incubation, the good eggs were not bothered. A big relief as I really wouldn’t have known what to do otherwise! On several occasions I noticed the female with her snout inserted right into the clutch. It was thought they used their heat sensory pits to monitor clutch temperatures. In fact, Trooper had mentioned to me that we wanted to investigate if the heat sensors were “numbed” or otherwise disabled whether this would affect the female’s ability to successfully manage the clutch temperatures.

Essentially trying to ascertain whether the female was, in fact, using her heat sensors in this way.

The Big Day! On the days leading up to the hatch, I did notice the female becoming more alert and defensive at even the slightest of intrusions. But, then came hatch day! One of the most exciting days is peeking in on eggs and seeing that very first snout popping out! Well, in my opinion, this is even more so in the case of maternal incubation and one’s first go at reptile reproduction.

Once the eggs start to pip the female immediately loosens up her coils and she’ll move her body however it needs to depending on touches she’s receiving from hatchlings down below. This was absolutely fascinating to watch! I pretty much waited until several babies were out before removing the female which took about a day and a half if I recall correctly. To say I was elated by this whole thing is a gross understatement. I can still clearly remember the yell I made when I peered into the nest box that afternoon once I got home from work and spotted snouts! What an absolute thrill. I would strongly recommend trying maternal incubation to anyone breeding green trees. There are not many opportunities in a captive environment to truly witness the culmination of millions of years of evolution and the fine tuning of the genetic programming of these snakes.

Below: Hatch day! And this was my very first chondro litter… to say I was excited would be a HUGE understatement. At that time I lived in an apartment and I’m sure any of my neighbors that were home heard me yelling! Mr. Blue is in there somewhere!

Getting Little Green Trees Going!

The result of this litter was 17 live babies out of 25 total eggs.

The other 8 were likely late-term stillborns – something seasoned chondro breeders are very accustomed to. These kids were set up in small shoe box containers along with a single perch made from a small diameter Delrin rod and a wide shallow water dish (I liked using the small 4” plastic plant saucers). Every chondro breeder probably recalls the trials and tribulations of getting their first clutch feeding… this was definitely a challenging time, and to be honest over the weeks it started to whittle away the euphoria of producing your very first litter of chondros! I remember, finally, getting most of them to eat ( as well as the thrill and pure feeling of accomplishment when that first baby took its first meal!) and there were still at least 5 or so holdouts. These are the ones that make you not want to go into your animal room!

I reached out to Trooper several times (hoping for a serious, after-sale tech support!) to seek advice on how to get these stubborn feeders going. He mentioned, for some, you really have to “piss them off ” and he said, “remember Tim, in the wild, these guys are reflex feeders relying on caudal luring.”

With this knowledge, I ramped up the agitation on these 5 and I think probably got 1 or 2 to go just on being more aggressive.

For the remaining 2-3 it came down to scenting. Trooper’s “go to” was to bring home a live chick from the zoo, kill it, open up the visceral cavity and soak live pinkies in the blood-nguts. This didn’t work for me – and I’m somewhat thankful it hadn’t as it caused me to stumble upon what was my “go to” and that was to pluck the small feathers from the neck area of a dead chick and apply them to a dead pinky that was thawed out in water – THIS, worked like a charm. Not only did the remaining stubborn kids feed, but they did so with vigor. And, I thought, “hell I should just do this from the beginning!”

Once the chondro litter was laid I now had to procure a shoebox rack for the neonates. The litter was 17 live so 2 of the neos (including 18.96 Mr Blue) were in small tubs in one of the Neodesha slant front cages. There were a lot of good babies out of this litter!

Temperature was controlled by a dimmer. Temps on the warm end were 83.8.

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I want to end this section by adding that, prior to the chicks, I also tried frog and lizard puree’s but to no avail.

Again, all for the good as chicks are easy to come by and the feather trick didn’t require much work.

18.96 aka Mr. Blue

The entire clutch were all red/maroon neonates. There was one sort of odd stand out – that was 18.96. What was unique about this baby relative to the others was the significantly reduced markings it had. Embarrassingly, I even offered up 18.96 at a few local shows though I did price him a $1000 as opposed to the standard $750.

Although at that time, the summer of ’96 through about 1998, the chondro market had crashed. Not because of too many cool animals but because there was an influx of freshly hatched “farm bred” chondros that non-chondro breeders sold “as is” for $2-300… and even though the OS (and comparable) chondros were certainly better, especially in the hands of novice keepers, people just couldn’t pass up the bargain.

It was the fall of 1996 and there was a new “major” show starting up – and it was starting up right here in Maryland.

It was the “Mid-Atlantic Reptile Show” or M.A.R.S. for short. This show was founded by Tim Hoen who marketed the show as a means to preserve Costa Rican rainforest through the proceeds. Most of the top breeders took an interest in the show and that included Trooper – but he was planning just to go as an observer. Since travelling to the show for Trooper meant coming up from his home in Arlington, VA and he would pass right by my house. I

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lobbied hard to have him stop by my apartment so I could have him take a look at the progeny I produced from his bloodlines. I actually convinced him to stop by! Now, to anyone reading this who knows Trooper, you know that was a hard trick to pull off and certainly one that could have just as quickly fallen through. I was elated! I couldn’t believe this legendary figure was going to pay my humble abode a visit. As he walked into my snake room (which was a converted second bedroom in a 2 bedroom apartment) he didn’t say much. Just an occasional “hmmm,” or “uh huh” or “very nice” but then when showing him the babies I had produced we got to 18.96 and he stared at it and mumbled “uh huh… Tim you may want to hold onto that one….” You know damn well that to get that kind of reaction out of Trooper was to say that chondro is likely going to be “very special indeed.” From that point on, 18.96 never saw another show.

Around 1997 he was beginning to change and his “specialness” was certainly starting to assert itself. Word quickly got out about this blue chondro and initially caught the interest of Tony Nicoli, the legendary Amazon Basin Emerald breeder. He was in talks with a guy in the Philippines who apparently had a lot of money and was looking to cherry pick the best of the American market. A tentative deal was in place to sell 18.96 to this guy for $3000 – an absolute steal looking back but given the continued depression of the chondro market seemed like a good offer at the time. That deal fell through and a new person entered with interest – John Holland (aka Johnny Blue).

I met John through my nephew. He was an absolute genius at setting up and maintaining salt water fish tanks – acquiring prestigious accounts of the likes of the then Silver Springs based Discovery Communications. He was just getting into snakes and quickly became interested in 18.96. His company was called “Blue Region” and he thought what better to go along with the blue theme than to own a blue snake! We then consummated a deal for cash plus 2 years of breeding rights to breed him back to his mother. The thinking was, perhaps this could produce more “super-blue” animals. We bred him and his mother twice – once in 1998-99 and again in 1999-2000.

Affectionately named, “Mr. Blue ‘’ by John, he went on to sire many litters – several of which in conjunction with Trooper producing many cornerstone animals and arguably resuscitated the sagging chondro market in the late 90’s and early 2000’s.

Left: Mr. Blue as a 5 month old. He had a reduced pattern compared to his clutchmates and this was the main distinction.

Middle: At this point, Mr Blue is a little over a year old. The blue is very evident but there is also some green (most of which turned blue) along with some black scales. The black later faded.

Right: Taken against a white background. The black from 5 months prior is now gone.

48.93 aka TMBF This female was the most prolific female GTP I’ve ever known. In fact, once you look at the summary of her breeding accomplishments, you will likely realize there isn’t likely another female that: 1) First bred at just under 2.5 years old; 2) Expended & endured a lot of reproductive effort & stress - 4 of her 6 litters were incubated maternally and twice maternally back-to-back; 3) Produced as many babies as she did.

A few notes: 1. SS = Sean Stewart and his male 27.94 was a Gary Sipperly product.

JH = is John Holland. BG = Buddy Goetzger of Arboreal Adventures.

2. During the 2001 breeding, the female was bred at Buddy’s and the eggs were artificially incubated with his Forma incubator.

3. During the 2004-05 breeding the female was clearly showing signs of reproductive wear. She had a partially prolapsed oviduct and some retained eggs. She passed away later that winter.

In hindsight, I consider my status among prominent historical green tree breeders as largely due to being in the right place at the right time. All I really did was breed the only 2 chondros I had. I had no idea what kind of potential I was dealing with. I suspect Trooper didn’t fully either as I’m absolutely sure he would have done things differently. He once told me that he chose the darkest of the maroon neos to hold back. It was, in fact, Trooper and the other contributors to the bloodlines that laid the groundwork for the results I produced. In that regard, I consider myself very fortunate.

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Morelia Spotlight: The German Line Jungle Carpets “Lut

her

”

With Andrew Paris

“Orion”

“Es t

her

Da y

“

“Day Tripper”

The German bloodline (GB, moving forward) of Jungle Carpet Pythons is relatively new to U.S. collections as importation from Germany didn’t occur in earnest until recent years, and in relatively small numbers. Consequently, the GB is a relatively new player on the jungle scene to U.S. hobbyists and breeders. What a perfect subject, I thought, for this issue’s spotlight. I have a small group of GB jungles, so I’m often approached with questions about them ranging from size and behavior to questions of ancestry-- breeder and line information. In this brief spotlight I’ll begin by discussing the origin stories of the GB and touch on why it’s difficult for keepers to find answers to questions regarding origin stories, something most long-time keepers and breeders of Morelia know all too well. I’ll conclude with some remarks on behavior and appearance that are characteristic of this line.

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Jungles in the U.S. have a history with certain founding lines, though they are few. The difficulty in talking about the origins of these bloodlines relate to legality issues, given exportation from Australia has been illegal for years, so the information is still kept hush-hush. When these origin stories are exchanged, it’s between friends and confidants.

Sensitive information is not made public. However, where there is a hobby, a market and money involved, people understandably want information and proof that the snake in question is pure and can be traced back to founding animals. They may also wonder where the founding animals came from, and how they came to be in U.S. collections. At that point, answers to questions are often kept intentionally vague and cryptic, or information has been “lost”. Sometimes red herrings are thrown out, such as “I purchased them from some guy at X show years ago-can’t remember who it was”, or by referring to the line as something else altogether. It’s understandable, as sensitive information is held in confidence.

Such has been the case with GB Jungle Carpet Pythons.

The prevailing theory over the years has been that Schuett line jungles were exported to Europe years ago, and are now trickling back into the U.S. market, dubbed “German bloodline” jungles. I personally preferred this theory for several years, until new information came to light that cannot be ignored. I had a conversation with a friend of mine who is a fellow collector across the pond in Europe.

He’s worked with this bloodline since it originated in the collection of a friend of his around ‘03-’04, and the very first clutch was hatched in 2006. My source, who I’ll call “Don” (yes, again with the cloak-and-dagger), purchased the whole clutch that year and continued his friendship and business relationship for years with this fellow breeder.

When asked, Don’s friend would claim the group were Schuett jungles, but throughout the many years Don was close with his friend and his friend’s business partner, he never got a straight answer as to the source for the supposed Schuett jungles. The answers were always vague.

Don realized over the years that the deflective and vague nature of the answers more likely meant they simply didn’t want to divulge their source. After working with the bloodline for years, unsatisfied and hoping for clarity, Don contacted his friend’s ex-business partner, who revealed to Don that they got “a bag full of F1 Australian stuff ”, but he supposedly couldn’t remember the source. The German bloodline jungles were in that bag. What is the likelihood one would forget where and from whom they acquired F1 Australian reptiles? Slim to none, but there’s always more to the story though, isn’t there?

Thankfully, for those who prefer not to get caught up in debate, the German bloodline brings more to the table other than their mysterious and dramatic past. Best to turn it over to the photos at this point. This line is stunning, with incredible yellow hues ranging from electric to a rich, almost orangey canary yellow that has to be seen in person to be believed. These are accompanied by deep jet black tones that together create some striking patterns, notably a strong striping influence and tendency toward wider patterns, often resulting in a “50/50” look, equal parts yellow to black. “Luther”, pictured, has a killer stripe that he generously passed along to his offspring from two different dams. The “head stamps” (black head markings) are often bold, with reduced yellow inside the classic jungle “skull”, and black bars run laterally from behind the eyes through the nasal scales, wrapping around the front of the top jaw, creating an unbroken black “U” shape around the head that is void of any yellow. While some jungle lines are known to be on the larger size, GB jungles tend to stay on the smaller side, with adults between four and five feet in length. The head markings, black nasal scales, striping tendencies and smaller size peak my curiosity as wild caught specimens from the lower Palmerston rainforest regions, such as the Innisfail district, Daradgee, Mission Beach and Southwest of Babinda are known to produce populations of smaller, stunning black and yellow jungles. It has been reported that pure GB hatchlings can be more stubborn to get going than other lines, though outcrossing is said to negate this. To date, I have only produced 50% GB jungles and have experienced nothing outside the norm.

In the next season or two, if all goes well, I may experience pure GB hatchlings and be capable of reporting back. From “started” juveniles through to adulthood, my small group have demonstrated no difference in feeding preferences such as type of prey or frequency of feedings, from U.S. lines I have kept and have been a joy to add to the fold here at Paris Reptiles.

Both enigmatic and visually arresting, there’s little doubt why the German bloodline is making a splash in U.S. collections, breeding groups and projects. It finds itself at the table with other storied, beautiful, intact jungle lines that so many keepers are trying to preserve here in the United States. My current plans for the coming years will include both pure GB pairings and pairings outcrossed to U.S. lines, which have resulted in some remarkable looking offspring already (“Esther Day”, pictured). Time will tell how the GB will be woven into U.S. collections and lines, but they sure are enjoying the spotlight thus far. Willkommen in Amerika, Deutsche blutlinie.

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The Monitors Nile By Paul Donovan

T

hey say big is beautiful. And you can’t get much bigger than the Nile monitor, Varanus niloticus.

Distributed throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa, this is the largest lizard found on the African continent, only surpassed in terms of bulk by the Nile crocodile, Crocodylus niloticus. With its sturdy body, powerfully built limbs and 2m (6½ft) length, it is a lizard deserving of a great deal of respect.

For good reason, they are sometimes called ‘Land crocodiles’ for they have the mannerism of a Nile Crocodile in the way in which they walk. It’s a very deliberate, gated walk, with a sinuous motion. Another reason perhaps for the name, is that they can often be found mingling amongst Nile Crocodiles, especially during the breeding season when they become infamous thieves of croc eggs and young.

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As one may imagine of a lizard with such a reputation, they are massive, powerfully built creatures. The head is quite angular with a blunt, rounded snout, small eyes set beneath a raised bony ridge, and obliquely slit nostrils situated central to the snout and eyes, and located quite high on the head. The skull has evolved into a heavily built ‘box’ structure with thickened bones. The lower jaw is bowed, and both the upper and lower posterior teeth have developed into efficient crushing tools. These features are married to a jaw muscle structure which imparts maximum force towards its rear, enabling the monitor to deal with hard shelled molluscs.

niloticus are quick to retreat at the first sign of danger. .

Near the Wedding Tackle

On the recieving end of a love bite!

I had a rather amusing encounter with a good sized individual I had in the snake park I once owned. I was standing in the enclosure holding this monitor, as I was talking to a group of people about it. As I released it and before I knew what had happened, it ran to the other side of the enclosure, turned tail and shot up my leg before clamping its jaws around my leg just below the wedding tackle. Well, the visitors had a good laugh while my wife at the time said “don’t move, let me get a picture”. Trust me, a lizard like that impaling its teeth into your leg, not only brings a great deal of pain with it, but also tears to your eyes. And, of course, the realisation of how lucky I’d been it had missed latching onto something else. Well, at least the visitors took a tale away with them to recount of their visit!

Aggression aside, I think the Nile Monitors ranks as one of the most attractive of all the Varanids. The brownishgrey or greenish-brown upper body adorned with dark reticulations and yellowish spots or stripes on the back, head and limbs really sets this monitor apart from the rest. The underside is yellowish with blackish cross bars.

Juveniles are conspicuously black with yellow spots arranged in crossbars. This may seem a rather garish colour to be, but it actually serves remarkably well as a form of camouflage. It is believed that a forest subspecies from western African, V. n. ornatus may exist which differs marginally in the number of cross-bars and spots. Though from what I can gather, the jury is still out on that one.

The cranial scales are small and smooth as are those of the supraocular (those directly above the eyes). The dorsal scales along the body are also small, oval in shape, of marginally different sizes, and what is called tectiform; shaped a bit like the roof of a house.

During the day, this monitor can be found residing in crevices amongst rocks or in burrows in close proximity to water; often even dug into the embankments of rivers. The burrow has a very distinctive semi-circular shape to it.

Periodically they will emerge to bask in the sun’s warmth, by sprawling out on the river banks, rocky outcrops or drape themselves over branches or tree stumps. If startled, they are quick to take to the water where they feel at home. With their powerful tail, they propel themselves along like they had an outboard motor bolted to it. Equally, they can ascend a tree at a rate a top ranking mountaineer would be envious of. The huge razor-like claws grip the trunk, like crampons do to ice.

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Despite their name and penchant for water, I have found them some considerable distance from it. When I was living in the city, on numerous occasions I’d receive a call to relocate a vagrant lizard who’d taken up residence in someone’s garden. Many of these properties were in the centre of the city, where the nearest water source was kilometres a way. So it does seem to be a wandering species which can find itself in a lot of unwelcome predicaments.

Trying to capture these wanders’ is a task in itself. They are belligerent lizards, with an attitude. When confronted, they raise their body on all fours, arch the back, distend the throat while hissing loudly, and then unleash a flurry of belligerent lashes with that muscular tail. Anyone who has been on the receiving end of these, can attest to the pain they deliver. Even a small monitor can deliver a whack that will result in a stinging red welt. As for a large one, they are capable of breaking a small animal’s leg.

Clean or green, it makes no difference to them.

Burrows excavated by a large monitor

Feeding habits For all intents and purposes, when it comes to feeding, there is not much that goes unnoticed when it comes to filling a Nile’s belly. Everything from earthworms, slugs, snails, insects, birds, rodents, frogs, toads, molluscs, crabs, fish, lizards, snakes, carrion, as well as being a predatory nest robber of crocodile eggs, and their young are considered with relish. They have even been observed nest robbing in full view of the parent crocodile.

I have only ever witnessed this on one occasion, and it was a fascinating cycle of a scavenging predator trying to outsmart an apex predator. In this instance, perseverance paid off, and the monitor had its fill.

Such is their craving, they have even been witnessed trying to swallow bones with only the smallest piece of meat attached. Any bone too large to be swallowed whole, will be smashed against a rock to aid its ingestion. They will even rob food directly from the mouth of another monitor. Furthermore, such is their selfconfidence, that they will even venture into houses and bush camps in search of food.

Breeding

In Botswana, the breeding season begins around June, and ends early October. This is not the hot summer season where the mercury can hit 95-104F (35-40C), but the winter months where daytime temperatures can be pleasant, but chilly. Typically temperatures average 52/54F (11-12C).

Males establish quite a large territory, which they defend with retribution against fellow intruding males. When a male wanders into another’s territory, it is confronted with what is often referred to as a ‘combat’ dance. In effect, they are actually tests

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These monitors are constantly vigilant. Photo>> Nik Borrow

Males in combat!. Photo>> Karin Lewis

of strength, where they grapple with one another trying to assert their authority. The weaker of the two must move off to find a ‘patch’ he can call his own. Interestingly, mating between the sexes does not appear to be as brutal as that often witnessed in other Varanids.

Around twenty-eight days following mating, the female goes in search of a suitable nest site to lay her leathery eggs. This is usually a patch of sandy ground in the vicinity of water, in which she will excavate a hole to a depth of 27in (70cm). It is not uncommon to find these nests in accompaniment to those of Nile crocs.

That being said, Nile Monitors are notorious for digging out a hollow in a termite mound, and then laying her eggs in it. These termite mounds can be a considerable distance from water but mounds serve a useful purpose for the development of eggs. Once the female has excavated a hole, laid her eggs and departed, the busy little termites are then left to repair the damage. They seal the developing eggs inside, well away from predation. Not only does this offer protection, but the temperature inside the mound remains fairly constant, while outside the mound, the temperature can fluctuate wildly. Just what the eggs need.

Typically, around 35 eggs are laid per clutch, with each measuring 2in x 1.5in (6cm x 4cm). When I worked in a zoological collection back home in the UK, we bred a pair of Nile monitors. We incubated the eggs in vermiculite at a temperature of 80.6 – 84.2F (27-29C), and humidity of 90%.

This resulted in an incubation period of 28 weeks.

The brightly coloured hatchlings measure around 30cm.

When they emerge, it is the job of those within the termite mound to begin excavating, and making their way up the chimney from where they eventually emerge. It may take the little monitors several days to dig their way out, but they do not immediately disperse. They may remain close to the mound and scurry back inside at the first sign of danger. Not until the hatchlings have departed, can the termites begin the process of repairing the damage the young monitors have caused. Those born in a ‘conventional’ nest, once free, will scurry to the nearest area of protection, or even take to the water. Needless to say, few survive to reach adulthood, as predation is very high, particularly from predatory birds such as Yellow-Billed Kites.

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Captive Care If you are looking for a large monitor which is easy to care for, has an attitude, but a challenge to breed, then the Nile monitor will fit the bill nicely. Even small individuals can be a challenge. Mishandling can result in deep lacerations to a misplaced finger. And as for those claws, well, they are as sharp as scalpel blades and capable of metering out nasty flesh wounds. Magnify that several times, and you can imagine what damage could be inflicted by a large individual.

A snappy temperament, razor-sharp claws, whipping tail, and a writhing body which spins around in your hands as you try and hold it, are not easy to control. I have seen leather welding gloves ripped to shreds during handling these monitors. So, think carefully before you take the plunge and buy one.

The criteria for keeping Niles in captivity, follows that of most large reptiles, plus a little bit extra. A very large cage, with ‘trees’ for climbing, and a large ‘swimming pool’ for soaking in are the prerequisites for this monitor species. They should be maintained at a temperature of 26-27°C with a heat lamp suspended over a basking area where the temperature can be allowed to reach 30-35°C. In some areas of their range, (not here in Botswana) the monitor may go into partial hibernation between April and August. This need not be replicated in captivity. Neither is it a prerequisite to their breeding.

Although feeding is not a problem, with large insects, chicks, mice, and rats being readily taken, one should be

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ever vigilant for the onset of obesity. There are two reasons as to why this can set in. Firstly, in the wild these monitors are active, continually on the search for food or a mate, and this burn’s off a lot of energy, even where individuals gorge themselves. Secondly, because of constraints on the limitations imposed by the cage size, activity levels will not be as high. Therefore, many hobbyists tend to over-feed their animals, and this entire nutritional intake is thus converted into fat which is stored along the sides of the body, a condition I have witnessed this in a lot of post-mortem specimens. I have even known people that suspected their animals to be pregnant, when in fact they are simply suffering from gross obesity. Good feeding management needs to be practiced to maintain a healthy individual.

If you can provide this monitor with the space it requires, and are prepared to put up with the belligerence, then it is an impressive lizard to look after.

Follow Paul on instagram at @wildlifeincloseup and check out his youtube channel wildlifeinclose-up

//Product Review//

//Dream Co. Three Tier Displays//

One of my goals when I decided to start breeding was to vend the NRBE Daytona Expo. I have gone to that show many times and have seen tons of different displays. I had a decision to make. Did I want to have a table that looked like I didn’t put much effort into it or did I want to spend some money and invest in a quality setup. I made the conscious decision to invest in a quality product to make my table look professional.

I decided to go with Dream Co. Plastics for three of their threetier displays.

Review by Billy Hunt

One of the first things that stood out to me was the customer service they had. I was cutting it close time wise before my first show and they assured me that they would take care of me.

The displays came on time with no issues, as per their promise to me. I went with the black acrylic displays though they do offer a few other colors as well. They also come with keyed locks and ventilation on the back of the displays so there is air flow without disrupting the look of the displays. They come with carrying cases that also act as your tiers when you set up the displays. Conveniently, each compartment has removable dividers so you can double your capacity. I opted to get 5, 4, and 3 compartments for each of my displays. I like the sizing you get with each level and I am able to display everything from neonates to young adult carpet pythons with no issues. I also have the option to have a complete three-tiered display of 3, 4, or 5 compartments for the whole display if I wanted to, so I like having that option since I have three displays.

As far as using them, they have stood up to 3 years of use with little wear and tear. They are easy to clean and the glue for the hinges has held up well. I use cardstock liners in them to make cleaning a breeze during a show. I didn’t use liners my first show but had no problems cleaning them when the need to do so came up. A quick wipe down of the compartment and it was good to go.

I also have the light fixture that Dream Co. offers for their displays. I really like them and recommend all their products to anyone looking for displays. Through talking with them, they have told me that they can do custom work as well so if you have an idea, they are open to discuss making it for you.

So, the sky’s the limit for what they can make. I recommend Dream Co. displays to anyone in the market and will definitely be buying more in the future.

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Industry Spotlight Chris Woodcock of GetHooked Snake Hooks Family man, Firefighter, and Master Hookmaker, Chris Woodcock shares with us his herpetoculture career that led to educating first responders about Venomous snakebites, and making the finest of snake handling equipment!

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HM: So Chris, what got you into snakes and herpetology?

CW: Unlike most people that get asked this question in our hobby, I was afraid of snakes as a kid. When I was in the third grade, I took on fishing pretty frequently. I remember seeing a snake swimming as I was casting my line, and I was terrified! Around that same time, I had a childhood neighbor who kept snakes. He had recently caught a wild yellow rat snake, and showed it to me. Seeing this wild animal up close and personal let me realize that snakes were actually pretty cool and I fell in love.

HM: At what age did you get your first snake?

CW: I was about 10 years old, and it was a wild red rat snake. Growing up in Longwood Florida, I did a lot of childhood herping. Needless to say, there were many red rat snakes over the years. And things got even more fun in 1990 when my parents opened a pet shop that they had for over 10 years.

HM: When did the firefighting and venom education stuff kick in?

CW: I was always interested in venomous species and the amazing abilities of venoms. However, in my late teens, priorities took over, and getting into college was a major priority. It was recommended to me to become a firefighter and paramedic, and the Fire Department would pay for my schooling. So I went for it.

In 2006 I started teaching at the local tech college for their EMT and paramedic program. I found that their textbooks for both classes were giving information that was not accurate when it came to venomous bites and stings from reptiles to marine animals. When I mentioned it to the head of the EMS department at that school, she asked me to come up with a class to teach all of the EMT and paramedic students.

That turned into me teaching once a semester on the subject. From there, I gave talks to local fire departments, community colleges and oddly enough, Duke Energy.

HM: When did you start keeping venomous personally?

CW: I didn’t. I had worked with countless Florida native venomous throughout my life, and realized I needed to expand my horizons. In 2010, Florida had begun its strict licensing for venomous possession, and I knew I had to get training at a facility. I was lucky enough to find an opening for an internship at MedToxin Labs in DeLand Florida, under direction of Carl Barden. Working for Carl, I could start getting my required hours of handling for the FL venomous license. I worked with Carl for several years and in 2014 I had gone to Tulsa, Oklahoma for a seminar on the biology of pit vipers. It was at this seminar that I met Brent Schulze, and we’ve been friends ever since.

“I was always interested in venomous species and the amazing abilities of venoms.”

HM: Is this where your partnership with Brent [Schulze] kicked off?

CW: Not yet. I was still working with Carl, and the thought of making snake hooks hadn’t quite happened yet. Carl had a few snake hooks made a long time ago by a company that no longer exists. Carl called them “Lab Hooks” and they were the best! Highly coveted by Carl, and he wasn’t about to give them to me. At some point, Carl sent two of the lab hooks to a commercial hook maker to try and have more of them re-created for the venom lab. But they were never produced.

I was annoyed that I couldn’t have my own set of these lab hooks and that’s what drove me to look at making my own.

I started finding used old golf clubs at yard sales. I would cut the heads off and start bending my own hooks out of aluminum round bar from local hardware stores. But I wanted to make better ones that didn’t look like I got them from a yard sale. I learned that golf pro shops frequently take in used clubs that are in great shape. I Purchased those barely used clubs and progressively made over 30 hooks in a few weeks.

Herpetoculture Magazine 34

HM: At this point, you’re firefighting, training with venomous, making your own hooks, and you met Brent. When did Venom Life Gear and Get Hooked become a thing?

Neonate hooks. The Rack Tool (aka, Drawer Puller) was an idea from a local breeder here in Central Florida, George Emde. We love getting feedback from our customers.

CW: After I made those first 30 hooks, I posted online that I had hooks that I was looking to sell. But I needed a catchy name. I wanted to use the name “Hook This!” But the wife said no! She thought people may find it offensive. So we went with Get Hooked instead. Brent saw the posts about the hooks and wanted in! Brent was in the zoology program at Fort Hays State University in Kansas, and was also a member of multiple organizations that had fellow herpers as members. He told me he could get my hooks in the hands of people that wanted them and get the name out there. So I sent a few hooks to Brent for him to try and sell. We realized we had a good thing going, so in 2015 the partnership was born. We came up with some great ideas for different hook options, such as color and style. Things that would set our hooks apart from the other hooks on the market.

We’re working with some new manufacturers and suppliers of our materials, so we can produce better quality products and better prices for the end-user. We’re also still heavily proactive in the education of snake bites and snake handling. In 2017, Brent and I met Jordan Benjamin, founder of the Asclepius Snakebite Foundation, at a Venom conference at Zoo Miami. We saw what this ambitious young man was doing to help with the most neglected tropical disease in the world, Snake Bite, and we wanted to help. Brent and I are both members of the Asclepius Snakebite Foundation, and Venom Life Gear is going to continue to partner with ASF for the foreseeable future. We aspire to do our best to help both humans and Snakes.

We decided to do some Hydro-dipping for some custom projects and we got friendly with the Hydro dipper. He told us we should jump on the Salt Life bandwagon and do something with a snake theme. He recommended “Venom life.” We thought this was a fun idea, so we had a few tumbler cups and stickers made with the words Venom Life on them. It wasn’t until later, when Brent and I went to an entrepreneurial workshop in Colorado, that we really expanded on the Venom Life idea.

During that workshop, people were divided down into smaller groups and given a personal mentor. Our mentor’s name was Kevin, and Kevin had some brilliant ideas for branding. So we showed him one of the Venom Life stickers we had made up.

Kevin fell in love with the idea and brought it to the workshop’s leader. “You guys are sitting on a gold mine” the leader said.

“Venom transcends everything, BRAND IT!” The week after the workshop, Brent and I decided on the name “Venom Life Gear” and immediately got it patented. It wasn’t until 2018 when I retired from the fire department, that I could go fulltime with Venom Life Gear and Get Hooked.

HM: What are some of your ideas and goals for the future of Venom Life Gear?

CW: We’re always trying to come up with new and innovative ideas. Many of the current hooks we offer now were ideas and suggestions from people that had purchased our hooks previously. Shane Smith was the one who asked us to make the Viper series and Gaboon hooks. Mike Vescio asked us to make the

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Rethink

Time to

w/ Kyle Vargas

Feeders

Your

36

HM: What was the motivation for taking care of your feeders the way you do?

KV: It really all started whenever I started observing snakes in the wild and their body condition and my snakes’ body condition in captivity. There was a clear difference. Snakes in the wild are a little bit thinner. They’re typically a little but more muscular than snakes in captivity and I wanted to emulate that as best as I could.

So I started to dissect every single thing I did from the ground up. I figured it has to start with what the snakes are eating and in turn with what the snakes prey items are eating.

In the wild there are no rodents that eat any type of meal which makes up about anywhere from 14 to 25% of the manufactured feed that we feed our rodents and they’re not doing that in the wild and that’s basically a filler it’s the same thing that we see in our food soy is just essentially a filler. I don’t want to feed my snakes fillers. I want to feed them good nutrients and vitamins and minerals. So yeah, I just basically started there and I noticed immediate and drastic changes in growth, in feeding response, you name it and there’s something to be said about having so much involvement with with your snakes you know if I want if I want my mice to be eating carrots and squash and grasshoppers before I feed I can offer it. All-in-all I guess I can say that I didn’t want to deprive my snakes of anything that they were getting in the wild. Any way possible that I could emulate what was happening in the wild I try to make that happen in my feeding regiment and the way that I keep my snakes in general.

HM: So you were on The Herpetoculture Podcast not that long ago and talked about how you feed your rodents a varied diet?

What is it that you give them, how much and how often?

KV: They get about 1/3 cup of 40 different seeds, grains and nuts every morning. Every other evening, they get dried crickets, grasshoppers and live mealworms. Every 5 days they get fresh veggies in the evening also. Fresh grass and hay is offered at all times as well as salt blocks.

HM: Do you offer a commercial rodent diet?

KV: They get absolutely no commercial rodent diet whatsoever.

HM: Do you offer some food options that give the feeders more fat over protein and vice versa? Personally I use a higher protein to fat ratio for mine.

KV: I don’t really run numbers on protein and fat intake because everything I offer is natural and I offer enough variety that I am not concerned with them lacking in either of those departments.

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HM: Have you noticed any major differences in terms of production, longevity, and benefit to the animals you’re feeding with them?

KV: I’ve only been raising mice this way for 2 years now but I have noticed a drastic growth increase in my babies.

HM: Would you recommend people raising their own feeders even if it’s on a small scale?

KV: I absolutely recommend that everybody raise their own if they have the ability. There is nothing that compares to being able to have so much input into what your snakes are eating.

HM: Are there some veggies they seem to prefer over others?

KV: I can’t say that I’ve noticed. I give carrots, zucchini, romaine lettuce and squash mostly.

“A few years ago, I decided to take my snakes health into my own hands and I started breeding my own mice and African Soft-Furred Rats. I did this because I wanted to know exactly what was going into them as far as nutrition goes. I realized quickly that there is a lot we are missing when feeding our snakes. I started thinking about what rodents might be eating in the wild and began trying my hardest to emulate that in captivity as well. They eat seeds, nuts, berries, grasses, roots, cactus fruits, insects and a variety of other things that provide vitamins, minerals and nutrients that absolutely none of the commercial rodent diets can offer.

They are full of substances that are found nowhere in nature. So I decided to take a different approach.

I mix about 40 or 50 different grains and seeds. I offer grasses and seeds collected from various mountain ranges, live and freeze dried grasshoppers, crickets and mealworms, fresh vegetables, fruits and nuts. Over the course of a few months, I noticed a drastic change in the babies that I was producing. They were growing faster, needed to be fed on a more frequent basis and were getting much longer as opposed to fatter with each feeding, something I hadn’t seen in the past. In addition to feeding my rodents better quality food, I also offered my snakes different size prey items each feeding, regardless of the snakes’ size. My reasoning behind this is that I feel the prey items have different levels of fat, protein and calcium to offer based on what stage they are in life. A pinkie has a significantly lower calcium content than a hopper size mouse.

Just because a snake can consume a certain size prey item doesn’t mean that they should only be fed that same size every time they are offered food. If one of my snakes eats a hopper for one meal, they may get 2 large pinkies for the next. I also feed lizards to every one of my snakes periodically throughout the year.

Variety is key in my opinion. Just like us, your snakes are what they eat.” - Kyle Vargas @klaubking

Herpetoculture Magazine

38

Evolution is thought to be random, but new evidence suggests that it is in fact quite predictable and deterministic. The research group of Mahler and Ingram studied Caribbean Anolis species and found some amazing results.

So first what are Anolis lizards? These are rather small, mostly green or brown, mostly arboreal lizards, and there are several species living on the various Caribbean Islands. Each Caribbean Island, like Puerto Rico, Jamaica or Hispaniola, has its own set of Anolis, and they aren’t particularly closely related to each other. But if you aren’t an expert and you visit some of these islands, you would think that you were seeing the same species of lizard since they look almost identical.

On each island you have the same set of Anolis: - High up in the canopy are the tree specialists, those are robust and a rather large, green species, which have long and strong legs.

- On small twigs, the twig specialists are moving in their slow way, showing a lichen-like pattern, short legs and prehensile tails.

- Along the tree trunks and ground Anolis are living their life, they are brown in colour, medium in size and have strong and long legs.

- In the grass on the ground you find true grounddwelling Anolis, rather small and fragile species, brown in colour and often with longitudinal stripes on their back or sides.

We all know convergent evolution as it occurs in the Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) and the Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus caninus) but why is convergent evolution in these small Anolis species so important? The reason

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Paper Breakdown: Anolis – Predictable Convergence?

By Kai Kolodziej why this discovery is so important to science is that there is an ongoing debate: If life were to start all over again, would the outcome be the same of today or something totally different? Stephen Jay Gould, an evolutionary biologist argued, that the outcome would be very different as you can’t predict evolution.

Convergent evolution, whether it is displayed in Green Tree Pythons/Emerald Tree Boas or in various Anolis species suggest that the result of such an experiment may be rather the same, as our world now.

The unique thing about Anolis is that they played out this experiment on the Caribbean Islands. So, the researcher team examined almost all Anolis species of the Caribbean Islands and took measurements of their body, tail length, and leg length plus many more characteristics. With statistical tests, they showed that the degree of convergence was much higher than possible simplyw by chance and proved that given the almost identical source material and same landscape, evolution can indeed be much more predictable than most researchers thought. Naturally there are always exceptions, like a leaf litter Anole on one of the islands, where no counterpart is found on any other island.

But these little lizards showed the world that evolution can be much more repeatable and predictable than we once thought and changed the look of science on this particular topic.

Literature: Mahler, Ingram, Revell & Losos (2013): Exceptional Convergence on the Macroevolutionary Landscape in Island Lizard Radiations. Science 341(6143).

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In The Incubator...

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