1957 – 1959 Dodge Coronet & Royal Service Manual – DOWNLOAD by www.heydownloads.com

175

FRONT SUSPENSION

operation is localized and burning of material is held to a minimum. The finished weld can then be ground or filed if necessary. Use a mild steel welding rod.

Cut the damaged bracket off the frame, file surface smooth, then clamp new bracket in correct position and weld bracket securely to frame member.

FRONT SUSPENSION CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

Checking Front Suspension Height Front Suspension Lubrication Front Wheel Alignment General Information Servicing the Ball Joints (Upper and Lower) Servicing the Front Shock Absorbers Servicing the Lower and Upper Control Arms Servicing the Lower Control Arm Strut Servicing the Steering Knuckles Servicing the Sway Bar Servicing the Torsion Bar Springs

Page

8 10 9 — 3 1 4 6 5 2 7

184 187 185 176 179 178 180 184 183 179 184

Lack of lubrication Worn out control arm bushings Loose control arm mountings Worn or loose strut bushings Loose shock absorber Inoperative shock absorber Worn or loose sway bar bushings Worn or loose wheel bearings Worn ball joints or tie rod ends Damaged control arms Bent steering knuckle Damaged or bent frame Incorrect suspension height incorrect caster Low or uneven tire pressure Wheel and tire out of balance Incorrectly repaired tires Excessive wheel or tire runout Wheels not tracking Dragging brake Wheels not aligned

| Body Pitch & Roll

Front End Loose

Car Pulls to One Side

Front Wheel Shimmy

1 Hard Steering

Wheel Bounce

Tire Wear

POSSIBLE CAUSES

- ^

CONDITIONS

Noisy Front End

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

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DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

176

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The new torsion bar suspension used on the Dodge cars, consists of two torsion bar springs (right and left hand), two sets of upper and lower control arms, four ball joints and two struts. The front ends of the torsion bar springs engage the lower control arms at the inner pivot points. The rear ends of the springs engage adjustable anchor and cam assemblies, which are supported by brackets welded to the frame side rails and a removable crossmember, as shown in Figure 1. The upper control arms are similar to those used in previous models except for the method of attaching them to the frame and steering knuckles. The upper control arms are mounted on removable brackets, which are bolted to the frame sub side rails, as shown in Figure 2. Shim packs inserted between the brackets and the frame sub side rails, establish the caster and camber settings for each front wheel. The lower control arms are attached to the frame front crossmember by a pivot shaft and bushing assembly. The pivot shafts are mounted in replaceable rubber bushings, located at the rear of number two crossmember, as shown in Figure 3 and 4. The shafts extend through the crossmember and are secured by nuts and cotterpins. The steering knuckles are connected to the upper and

UPPER CONTROL ARM¿ 1

Fig. 2—Upper Control Arm Mounting

ARM SHAFT

IL!NK B STRUT B U S H I N G » ^ H ^ ^ ^[STRUT

BAR

BUSHING

Fig. 3—Lower Control Arm Mounting TORSION BAR (ü TORSION BAR (R) SUPPORT BRACKETS ADJUSTING BOLTS SWIVELS FRAME CROSSMEMBER (REMOVABLE)

TORSION BAR ADJUSTING CAMS LOCK RINGS

i. IA

57x79

Fig. ]—Torsion Bar Rear Support Assembly

lower control arms by the means of ball joints, as shown in Figures 5 and 7. (Since the king pin is eliminated as such, the effective angle previously referred to as "king pin inclination" will hereinafter be referred to as "steering axis inclination." The procedure for checking this angle remains the same as was used for checking king pin inclination.) To prevent the possibility of fore and aft movement of the lower control arm, a strut is attached to the number one crossmember and to the lower control arm, as shown in Figures 3 and 6. The forward end of each strut is mounted in a replaceable rubber bushing. The rear end of the strut is bolted securely to the lower control arm, as shown in Figure 3.

177

FRONT SUSPENSION COTTER PIN

CUSHION TORSION BAR

NUT COTTER PIN

WASHER

LOWER CONTROL ARM

57x63

Fig. 4—Lower Control Arm Shaft and Bushing (Sectional View)

UPPER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT UPPER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY

LUBRICANT FITTING

UPPER CONTROL ARM

_ i

OUTER SEAL STRUT MOUNTING BOLTS

LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT Fig. 5—Upper and Lower Control Arm Ball Joints

RETAINERS

STRUT

LOWER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY LOWER CONTROL ARM

FRAME BUSHING

57x64 Fig. 6—Lower Control Arm Strut Mounting (Sectional View)

LUBRICANT FITTING

57x65A

Fig. 7—Upper and Lower Control Arm Ball Joints (Sectional View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

178

The sway bar (if so equipped), is mounted on the struts and is attached to the frame by links and bushings. (See Figure 3). The only points in the new suspension requiring lubrication are the ball joints and

the tie rod ends. Never lubricate the rubber parts of the front suspension with any form of lubricant. These parts are designed to operate dry.

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES 1.

SERVICING THE FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS Should it become necessary to remove the front shock absorbers for installation of new shock absorbers or bushings, refer to Figure 8, then proceed as follows: (1) Raise the front of vehicle off floor, to release tension on the torsion bar springs. Remove dirt from around the shock absorber upper mounting area. Now, remove the front wheel. (2) Slide a ¼ inch wrench over the flats on the top of shock absorber piston rod, to keep rod from turning. Now, remove nut and cup washer. (3) Remove shock absorber lower eye mounting bolt and nut from mounting bracket. (4) Push the shock absorber up sufficiently to retract piston rod, then slide shock absorber down and out between lower control arm and frame. T h e l o w e r c u p w a s h e r m a y r e m a i n i n p l a c e or d r o p t h r o u g h w h e n shock a b s o r b e r is r e m o v e d . BOLT SUPPORT BRACKET BUSHING UPPER CONTROL ARM SHOCK ABSORBER NUT WASHER NUT BUSHING\ LOCKWASHER LOCK RING SHAFT LOCKWASHER NUT NUT

(5) Using a suitable drift, force the inner steel sleeve out of bushing, then remove bushing from frame opening. Check bushing for deterioration or fatigue. Install new bushings as required. (6) Before installing new bushing, dip bushing in water. Place in position on frame. Using a hammer and rod of suitable size, drive bushing into opening of frame. When installed properly; the groove in bushing will index with opening in frame. Now, install steel sleeve. (7) Remove the lower mounting bushing from the shock absorber eye using Tool C-3553, as shown in Figure 9. Press bushing out of eye. (8) Place the lower mounting in position. Using Tool C-3553, press bushing into shock absorber eye until centered. CAUTION: A l w a y s press a g a i n s t steel s l e e v e to a v o i d d a m a g e to t h e a s s e m b l y . ( S e e Figure 9 ) . (9) Compress the shock absorber piston rod to its

LOCKWASHERS

'SUPPORT BRACKET

BOLT

SWIVEL—~*L LOCK RING'

,LUBE FITTING -BALL JOINT-UPPER 'BUSHING CUSHION

BOLT SEAL-INNER SEAL-OUTER RETAINER UMPER STEERING KNUCKLE -FLAT WASHER NUT COTTERPIN NUT FLAT WASHER COTTERPIN BOLT SEAL LOWER CONTROL ARM LOCKWASHERS

WASHER BUMPER BUSHINGWASHER

COTTERPIN NIUT

ŒTAINER WASHER NUT COTTERPIN BUSHING

JOINT-LOWER LUBE FITTING RETAINER

Fig.

8—Front Suspension (Exploded View)

57x70

FRONT SUSPENSION TOOL

179 BALL JOINT STEERING KNUCKLE

57x71

Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Shock Absorber Lower Bushing

full travel, then slide lower cup washer (concave side up) over rod and down into position. (10) Slide shock absorber up into position between control arm and frame (be sure piston rod enters steel sleeve through upper bushing and into position). (11) Holding shock absorber in installed position, slide the cup washer (concave side down) over piston rod and down on bushing. Install nut finger tight. (12) Position the lower end of shock absorber in mounting bracket on lower arm, then install retaining bolt, lockwasher and nut. Tighten nut to 40 foot pounds. Now, tighten the piston rod nut to 25 foot pounds, or until the upper and lower washer bottom against sleeve. Reinstall wheel and tire.

SERVICING THE SWAY BAR(On models so equipped)

Should it become necessary to remove the sway bar for replacement due to damage, refer to Figure 8, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the two sway bar link retaining nuts and concave washers. (2) Remove the two sway bar cushion retaining nuts, lockwashers and bolts, (one to each strut). Now, slide sway bar out through control arm struts and away from vehicle. The sway bar cushions are not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, install new sway bar assembly. Remove lower concave washers. (3) Remove the sway bar link insulating bushings from frame bracket by forcing out of position. If bushings are worn or deteriorated, install new ones as required. (4) Dip new sway bar link bushings in water then install in opening in frame bracket, using a twisting motion. When installed properly, the groove in

Fig. 10—Removing Upper Ball Joint from Knuckle

bushing will index with opening in frame bracket. To reinstall sway bar, refer to Figure 8, then proceed as follows: (5) Thread sway bar into position over top of lower control arm struts. (6) Engage sway bar cushion housings with struts and install lockplates. Insert bolts, lockwashers and nuts. Tighten to 25 foot-pounds. (7) Install washers over ends of links (concave side up), then slide links up through bushings. Install washers (concave side down), over ends of links and down on bushings. Install nuts. Tighten to 15 foot-pounds.

SERVICING THE BALL JOINTS— (Upper and Lower)

Should it become necessary to remove the ball joints for installation of new parts due to damage or wear, refer to Figure 5, then proceed as follows:

Ball Joint Removal and Installation—(Upper) (1) Place a jack under a lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise wheel off floor. (2) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly. (3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 down over lower stud until tool rests on steering knuckle. Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against upper stud, as shown in Figure 10. Spread tool enough to place upper stud under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of k n u c k l e with tool a l o n e . (4) Remove tool, then disengage ball joint from knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and grease seal. (5) Remove the lubrication fitting from top of ball joint, (in order to install Tool) then using Tool C-3560, as shown in Figure 12, unscrew ball joint from upper control arm.

180

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

W h e n i n s t a l l i n g n e w b a l l joint, it i s v e r y imp o r t a n t that t h e b a l l joint t h r e a d s e n g a g e t h o s e of t h e control a r m s q u a r e l y . (6) With the lubrication fitting removed, screw the new ball joint squarely into control arm as far as possible by hand. (7) Using Tool C-3560, tighten until ball joint housing is seated on control arm. (8) Slide seal and dust cover up into position, over stud then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer and nut. Tighten to 100 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (9) Install lubrication fitting and lubricate ball joint, using a good grade of chassis lubricant. (10) Reinstall wheel and tire.

UPPER CONTROL ARM STEERING KNUCKLE

BALL JOINT

57x73

Ball Joint Removal and installation—(Lower) To remove or install the lower ball joint, refer to Figure 5 then proceed a s folows: (1) Place jack under lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible but allowing enough clearance to remove lower ball joint. (2) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly. (3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint and nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over upper stud until tool rests on steering knuckle. Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against lower stud, a s shown in Figure 11. Spread tool enough to place lower stud under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do n o t attempt to force stud out of k n u c k l e with tool a l o n e . (4) Remove tool, then disengage ball joint from knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and seal. (5) Using Tool C-3560, as shown in Figue 12, unscrew ball joint from lower control arm and remove. When installing new ball joint, it is very im-

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing Ball Joint (Control Arm)

p o r t a n t that t h e b a l l joint t h r e a d s e n g a g e those of t h e control a r m s q u a r e l y . (6) Screw ball joint into control arm as far as possible by hand. (7) Using Tool C-3560, tighten untill ball joint housing is seated on control arm. (8) Slide seal and dust cover into position, over stud then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer and nut. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (9) Lubricate the ball joint, using a good grade of chassis lubricant. (10) Reinstall wheel and tire.

SERVICING THE LOWER AND UPPER CONTROL ARMS

Should it become necessary to remove the control arms due to damage or the replacement of bushings, refer to Figure 8, then proceed as follows:

Lower Control Arm Removal and Installation

157x106 Fig. 11— Removing Lower Ball Joint from Knuckle

(1) Place a jack under the number 2 cross-member and raise the vehicle until both front wheels clear the floor. (2) Release load from the torsion bar spring by backing off the anchor adjusting bolt, as shown in Figure 1. Remove bolt and swivel. CAUTION: If bolt i s r e moved alone the swivel may fall inside the bracket. (3) Using pliers, remove the lockring from the rear of the torsion bar anchor that controls end play of the spring, as shown in Figure 13. (4) Slide torsion bar spring back through anchor sufficiently to disengage forward end from lower control arm shaft, as shown in Figure 14. Now, slide spring forward and down, disengaging from anchor. Remove spring from under car. (5) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly.

181

FRONT SUSPENSION

DRIFT

Fig. 13—Removing or Installing Torsion Bar Lockr¡ng

57x3781 Fig. 15—Removing Lower Control A r m Shaft and Bushing from Housing

in vise and remove ball joint, using Tool C-3560. Refer to Figure 12.)

F¡g. ¶4—Removing or Installing Torsion Bar

(6) Disconnect shock absorber at lower control arm bracket, then push shock absorber up into frame out of the way. (7) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts that attach the strut to the lower control arm. (8) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over upper stud until tool rests on steering knuckle. Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against lower stud, as shown in Figure 11. Spread tool enough to place lower stud under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of k n u c k l e with tool a l o n e . (9) Remove tool, then disengage ball joint from knuckle. (10) Remove cotterpin, nut and washer that attaches the lower control arm shaft to the frame. With washer and cotterpin removed, reinstall nut until flush with end of shaft. (11) Using a hammer and brass drift, loosen shaft (a tapered fit in front crossmember), then remove nut. Now, slide the lower control arm and shaft out from

rear of crossmember. When removing control arm, do not lose torsion bar cushion located in end of housing. (If arm is best or damaged, clamp

Removing or Installing Lower Control Arm Shaft Bushing Should it become necessary to remove lower control arm bushing due to wear, refer to Figure 4, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the locking from the inner end of control arm shaft, using suitable pliers. Remove the torsion bar cushion from opposite end of housing. (2) Place lower control arm in an arbor press, (with torsion bar hex opening up). Press shaft and bushing out of control arm, using a brass drift, as shown in Figure 15. (3) Remove cotterpin, nut and washer from end of shaft, then slide bushing from shaft, as shown in Figure 16. (4) Slide new bushing over shaft (flange end first) and seat on shoulder of shaft. Install washer and nut, then tighten to 125 foot-pounds. (Hold shaft securely in vise with protector jaws.) Install cotterpin. (5) Press lower control arm shaft and bushing into lower control arm with an arbor press, or drive into place using Tool C-3556 and hammer, as shown in FigWASHER

SHAFT

•`3PH .

" 1 57x74

Fig. 16—Removing or Installing Shaft Bushing

182

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL EXHAUST PIPE

CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLTS

ADJUSTING CAM

ADJUSTING BOLT

SHAFT AND BUSHING LOWER CONTROL

ARM

Fig. 17â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installing Lower Control Arm Shaft and Bushing

ure 17. Press until flanged position of bushing is seated and lockring can be installed. Remove from press and install lockring, making sure it is properly seated in its groove. Install torsion bar cushion in opposite end. (If installing a new arm, clamp firmly in vise, then start ball joint squarely in arm. Thread joint into arm using Tool C-3560, as shown in Figure 12. Tighten until seated (approximately 300 foot-pounds.) The ball joint w i l l

ANCHOR BRACKET LOCK RING RIGHT HAND SIDE TORSION BAR FRAME CROSSMEMBER CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLT CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLTS ADJUSTING BOLT ADJUSTING CAM FRAME CROSSMEMBER

cut threads into arm during tightening operation). Refer to Figure 8, then install lower control arm as follows: (6) Position shaft and control arm in frame crossmember in approximate operating position. Install washer and nut. Tighten nut to 180 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (7) Slide the lower ball joint stud into steering knuckle and install washer and nut. Tighten nut to 135 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (8) Withdraw shock absorber from its position up in frame opening and engage with mounting bracket. Install bolt, washer and nut. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds. (9) Position strut on lower arm, install bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten to 65 foot-pounds. (10) Install wheel and tire assembly. Do not l o w e r

vehicle at this time. Before installing torsion bar spring, check the torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel for burred or stripped threads. Install torsion spring as follows:

The torsion bar springs are marked (R) right and L (left) on the end. It is very important that each spring be installed on its respective side of the vehicle as indicated and in the anchor so that the r. and 1. are visible, as shown in Figure 18.

ANCHOR BRACKET LOCK RING LEFT HAND SIDE TORSION BAR CROSSMEMBER ATTACHING BOLT

57x78

Fig. 18â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Torsion Bar Spring Identification

(11) Coat hex ends of bar with grease or lubriplate then slide torsion bar spring into hex of rear anchor, (refer to Figure 14.) Turn spring until anchor cam is positioned as close to the floor pan as possible. Now, engage front end of spring in hex opening of lower

control arm shaft. If the anchor cam is not in the position just described when installing spring, it will be impossible to adjust the front suspension to the correct height. (12) Before installing lockring, center spring so that full contact is obtained at anchor and arm shaft. Install lockring, making sure it is seated in its groove. (13) Slide the adjusting bolt swivel in position on anchor cam. Hold in position while installing bolt and seat. Now, tighten bolt into swivel until approximately 1 i n c h of threads are showing out of swivel. This is

an approximate setting and is to be used only as a starting point when adjusting for correct height. This setting is also necessary to place a load

FRONT SUSPENSION on the torsion spring before lowering vehicle to floor. (14) Lower car to floor, then check and adjust suspension as required. Refer to Checking Front Suspension Height as described in Paragraph 8 of this Section. Upper Control Arm Removal and Installation The upper control arm support mounting brackets are attached to the frame side rails, a s shown in Figure 2. These brackets should not b e r e m o v e d unless d a m a g e d b y a n accident. (1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise jack until wheel clears floor. (2) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly. (3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 down over lower stud until tool rests on steering knuckle. Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against upper stud, as shown in Figure 10. Spread tool enough to place upper stud under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of k n u c k l e with tool a l o n e . (4) Remove tool, then disengage ball joint from knuckle. (5) Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts that attach the upper control arm and bushings to the front and rear support. Lift upper control arm up and away from support. (If arm is bent or damaged, clamp in vise and remove ball joint, using Tool C-3560. Refer to Figure 12.) If it should become necessary to remove the mounting brackets, care should be taken so as not to lose the alignment shim pack. If a shim pack is lost, a selection of 5/16 inch thick shims may be used a s a starting point. Refer to Front Wheel Alignment Paragraph 9.

BUSHING

WOOD BLOCK UPPER CONTROL ARM

\ V\ · k 9 1 57x76 F¡g. 19—Removing Upper Control Arm Bushings

UPPER CONTROL ARM

183

WOOD BLOCK

BUSHING

57x77

F¡g. 20—Installing Upper Control Arm Bushings Removing or Installing Upper Control Arm Bushings Should it become necessary to remove the upper control arm bushings due to wear, refer to Figure 8, then proceed as follows: (1) Assemble Tool C-3559 over bushing and arm and press bushing out of arm, (from inside out), as shown in Figure 19. B e s u r e the control a r m i s firmly s u p p o r t e d if a h a m m e r a n d drift i s u s e d i n p l a c e of tool. (2) Position the flange end of new bushing in Tool C-3559, then support the control arm squarely. Force bushings into control arm (from outside) until tapered portion of bushing seats on arm. (See Figure 20). When installing new bushings, be sure the control arm is supported squarely at the point where bushing is being pressed in. Do not use oil or grease to aid in installation. (If installing a new arm, clamp firmly in vise, then start ball joint squarely in arm. Thread joint into arm, using Tool C-3560, a s shown in Figure 12. Tighten until seated (approximately 300 foot-pounds.) T h e b a l l joint will cut threads into arm during tightening operation.) After bushings have been pressed in place, install upper control arm on vehicle, a s follows: (3) Slide the upper control arm over supports and down into position. (Refer to Figure 8.) Install washers and nuts. Tighten nuts from 45 to 65 foot-pounds. (4) Slide upper ball joint stud into position in steering knuckle, then install washer and nut. Tighten nut to 100 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (5) Install wheel and tire, then remove jack. 5. SERVICING THE STEERING KNUCKLES Should it become necessary to remove and install either

184

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

steering knuckle due to damage or wear, refer to Figure 5, then proceed a s follows: (1) Place a jack under the lower control arm as near to the wheel as possible. Remove wheel, tire and drum. B e s u r e a n d c o v e r the b r a k e s h o e s t o p r e v e n t dirt o r g r e a s e from soiling t h e l i n i n g . (2) Remove the cotterpins, nuts and lockwashers that attach the steering arm and brake dust shield to the steering knuckle. Now, remove steering arm, brake dust shield, center plane brake supports and shoes from the steering knuckle a s an assembly but leaving the brake hose attached. D o n o t a l l o w t h e a s s e m b l y to h a n g b y t h e b r a k e h o s e . (3) Remove the ball joint studs from the steering knuckles as described in Servicing the Upper and Lower Ball joints, Paragraph 3, using Tool C-3564. Then lift steering knuckle out and away from vehicle. When installing steering knuckle, refer to Figure 5, then proceed as follows: (4) Slide the upper and lower ball joint studs into steerinĂ§Ć&#x2019; knuckle and install lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the upper ball joint stud nut to 100 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. Tighten the lower ball joint stud nut to 135 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (5) Slide the brake dust shield, support and shoe assembly over knuckle and into position. Install lockwashers and nuts on the upper rear and lower front bolts. (6) Install the upper front and lower rear bolts through dust shield and steering knuckle, then slide steering arm over bolts. Install lockwashers and nuts. Tighten nuts evenly to 5 0 foot-pounds. Install cotterpins. (7) Remove covering from brake shoes, then replace wheel tire and drum assembly. To properly adjust the front wheel bearings to avoid excessive bearing preload, adjust front wheel bearings a s follows: (8) Tighten the front wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating the wheel. (9) Selectively position the nut lock over adjusting nut so that the spindle cotterpin hole is in line with one set of slots in the nut lock. (10) Without removing the nut lock, back off nut until the next set of slots are lined up with the cotterpin hole. (11) Install cotterpin to secure the nut lock, then remove jack.

6. SERVICING THE LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT Should it become necessary to remove or install the lower support arm strut due to damage or bushing wear, refer to Figures 3 and 6, then proceed a s follows: (1) Remove the nuts, lockwashers, and bolts that attach the sway bar bushing housings to the struts. Disconnect sway bar from struts. (2) Remove the strut to lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts.

(3) Remove cotterpin, nut and bushing retainer from the forward end of strut at crossmember. (4) Slide strut and inner bushing retainer from bushing in frame. (See Figure 6.) (5) Using screwdriver, pry bushing out the front of frame. (6) Dip new bushing in water and with the tapered portion toward rear of vehicle, install in opening in frame using a twisting motion until groove in bushing indexes properly with frame. (7) With the cupped side out, slide the washer over threaded end of strut. Push strut through bushing in frame, (See Figure 6). Slide outer washer over end of strut (cupped side in). Install nut. (8) Tighten nut sufficiently to install the strut to lower control arm mounting bolts. Install bolts, lockwashers and nuts, and tighten to 65 foot-pounds. (9) Tighten nut on forward end of strut to 35 footpounds.

7. SERVICING THE TORSION BAR SPRINGS Should it become necessary to remove and install either torsion bar spring refer to Paragraph 4, Servicing the Lower and Upper Control Arms. (Lower Control Arm Removal and Installation), steps 1 through 4 Removal, and 12 through 15 Installation. CAUTION: The torsion bar springs are not interchangeable* side for side. The left hand spring cannot be used on the right side and vice versa. The spring will be indicated as either left or right by an R. or an L. (right or left hand side) stamped on the end of the spring, as shown in Figure 18. The only parts of the torsion spring rear anchor that may require replacement are the adjusting bolt and swivel. To replace either of these, proceed a s follows: (1) Place jack under center of front crossmember and raise vehicle off floor. (2) Back out adjusting bolt and seat, then remove bolt, seat and swivel. (3) When reinstalling, tighten adjusting bolt until approximately 1 i n c h of threads show above swivel. This is an approximate setting and should be used as a starting point when setting suspension height. This setting is necessary to place a load on the torsion spring before lowering vehicle to floor. (4) Check and set suspension height as described in Paragraph 8, of this Section.

8. CHECKING FRONT SUSPENSION HEIGHT Front suspension height should be checked and if necessary, reset whenever service work has been done on the torsion bars. To check and adjust front suspension height, proceed as follows: (1) Place vehicle on level floor.

FRONT SUSPENSION

57x62

Fig. 21-Checking Height at Ball Joint

(2) Be sure tires are inílated to recommended pressure. (3) Be sure only the weight of the vehicle is on the wheels. (No load or passengers but a full gas tank.) (4) Using a steel rule, measure from the lowest point of the ball joint to the floor, as shown in Figure 21. (5) Again using the steel rule, measure from the underside of the lower control arm bushing housing, (at center line of lower control arm), as shown in Figure

22. Under car weight, the bushing housing will always be higher than the ball joint housings. The difference between these two measurements (or differential value) should not be more than 2 ¾ inches or less than 1 % inches on all Sedans and Coupes; not more than 2 VB inches or less than 2 % inches on all Suburbans; and not more than 1 % inches or less than 1 ¾ inches on all Sports Models. After the differential values have been established

185

for both sides of a car, they should be compared. If they are within ¼ inch of each other a n d a r e within the limits specified above, they may be considered acceptable. If these values differ from each other more than ¼ inch, or if one or both of them are outside of the specified limits, the front suspension height on both sides must be reset by tightening or loosening the adjusting bolt at the torsion bar. This resetting is to be performed to establish the following differential values on both sides of the car. Sedans and Coupes 2¼ inch Suburbans 2¾ inch Sports Models l¾ inch Always bounce the car front and rear after making an adjustment prior to a height check. When front suspension height has been changed by adjustments, check alignment of front wheels, and aiming of headlight beams. Adjust as necessary. 9.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

After front wheel alignment has been once adjusted, it should only be necessary to check the alignment once a year under normal driving conditions. However, if there is reason to suspect that the wheels are out of line because the vehicle does not steer properly, or has been damaged in an accident, a careful diagnosis should be made first to see if the wheels need aligning or if new parts need be installed. When making adjustments or installing new suspension parts, the alignment angles in both front wheels should be checked in the following order: (1) Camber. (2) Caster. (3) Steering Axis Inclination (King Pin Inclination). (4) Toe-in and Toe-out. All parts of the front suspension have been heat treated and should any of these parts become bent, they

should be replaced. Under no circumstances should these parts be heated in order to straighten. Checking Front Wheel

J^^»

¯¾$ 57x376

Fig. 22—Checking Height at Control Arm

Alignment

Before checking front wheel alignment, the following inspections should be made to determine the necessity for repair or replacement of parts of the suspension or steering and accomplished before proceeding further: (1) Check type of tire wear. (2) Inflate all tires to recommended pressure. (Tires with equal wear on front.) (3) Check adjustment of front wheel bearings. (Refer to Servicing and Steering Knuckles Paragarph 5, of this section.) (4) Check the upper and lower ball joints for excessive looseness.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

T86 W$UPPORT BRA

Fig. 23—Removing or Installing Shims

(5) Check tie rod ends and idler, arm for excessive looseness. (6) Check the rear spring "U" bolts for tightness and that the rear axle has not shifted out of position. (7) Check the vehicle's wheel base (both sides) from center to center of axles. This will determine if the front suspension or frame is bent or if the rear axle has shifted. (8) Grasp the front and rear bumpers at the center and work up and down several times. This will place the suspension in its "normal" position. T h e e a r must

remain in a normal position, while checking camber, caster, and steering axis inclination. Caster and Camber Adjustments Caster and camber adjustments are made by the use of 1/16 and 1/32 inch shims placed between the upper control arm support brackets and the frame sub side rails (Refer to Figure 2). Shims may be changed at either the front or rear bracket to change the caster setting or equally at both brackets to change the camber. The removal of shims at the rear bracket or the addition of shims to the front bracket will decrease positive

camber. One shim (1/16 inch) will change camber approximately 3/8°. The addition of shims at both front and rear support brackets will decrease positive camber. One shim (1/16 inch) at each bracket will change camber 5/16°. Caster and camber adjustments are made as follows: (1) Jack up that side of the vehicle on which adjustment is to be made. (Place jack under lower control arm as near to the wheel as possible.) (2) Loosen the upper control arm support bracket nuts and add or remove shims as required, as shown in Figure 23. (3) Retighten nuts, remove jack and bounce front of car to allow all parts to assume their normal position. The total thickness of the shim pack between either of the support brackets should NOT exceed 5/8 inch. The caster, camber, axis inclination and toe-in settings are as shown in chart below.

Checking Steering Axis (King Pin) Inclination If the camber can be adjusted within the recommended limits, it is usually unnecessary to check the steering axis inclination. However, if camber cannot be adjusted within the recommended limits, steering axis inclination can be checked in exactly the same manner as used when checking kind pin inclination. If the axis inclination is not within 5½ to 7°, check for a bent frame, steering knuckle or control arm. Steering axis inclination that cannot be brought to specifications with the permissible amount of shims would indicate bent frame or upper or lower control arms. Camber that cannot be brought to specifications with axis inclination within tolerance and permissible amount of shims would indicate bent knuckle. Combination of these of course may be involved.

Toe-In Adjustment With the front wheels in a straight ahead position, take the toe-in adjustment as follows: (1) Loosen the clamping bolts on the ends of tie rpds and adjust tie rods an equal amount in the proper direction until toe-in is ¼ inch.

WITH POWER STEERING Caster

¾°±¾

Camber

Steering Axis (King Pin) Inclination

0° ± ¼° (right) 0° preferred + ¼ ° ± ¼° (left) + ¾° preferred

5½° to 7°

Toe-In %2 to ¾ 2 inch ¼ inch preferred

MANUAL STEERING Caster

¾° ± ¾°

Camber

Steering Axis (King Pin) Inclination

0° ± ¼° (right) 0° preferred + ¼ ° ± ¼° (left) + ¾° preferred

5½° to 7°

Toe-Jn %2 to % 2 inch ¼ inch preferred

FUEL SYSTEM (2) If previous road test indicated that the steering wheel was improperly centered, adjust both tie rods an equal amount until steering wheel is centered. (3) Shortening the left tie road and lengthening the right tie rod will move the steering wheel clockwise. One full turn of the tie rod will move the steering wheel about 3 inches, when measured at the rim. (4) With toe-in adjustment set, position the ends of the tie rods in the sockets so that both studs are against either the front or back sides of the sockets, then tighten the clamp bolts from 10 to 15 foot-pounds. This provides sufficient angular rotation of the tie rod on the ball studs and prevents interference on extreme turns. If the clamp bolts are tightened too much, the clamp will become distorted, losing its clamping action.

187

Always check mid position of steering wheel after adjusting toe-in.

10. FRONT SUSPENSION LUBRICATION There are 8 lubrication fittings on the front suspension which should be lubricated at 1,000 mile or 30-day intervals. The lubrication fittings are located as follows: one at each ball joint and one at each tie rod end. The rubber bushings used in the front suspension are designed to grip the contacting metal parts firmly and operate as a flexible medium between parts. The use of lubricants will destroy the necessary friction and cause noise as well as premature failure of the bushings. Therefore, do not lubricate the rubber bushings with any form of oil, powder, brake fluid, rubber lubricant or other similar lubricants.

FUEL SYSTEM CONTENTS

Par.

Page

WW SERIES CARBURETOR (6) CYL WW SERIES CARBURETOR (8) CYL WCFB SERIES CARBURETOR (Four Barrel) FUEL PUMP

202 189 215 233

Incorrect idle mixture Leak in distributor vacuum advance Carbonized idle tube Idle tube not seating properly Loose bearing (distributor base plate) Idle air bleed carbonized Fouled spark plugs Idle discharge holes plugged Incorrect ignition timing Throttle body carbonized Worn throttle shaft Air leak at carburetor mounting flange Damaged or worn idle needle or not properly adjusted Incorrect valve timing Incorrect float level Choke does not completely open Loose main to throttle body screws Intake manifold leak Corroded wire ends or distributor towers

1 Poor Acceleration

Carburetor Floods or Leaks

Excessive Fuel Consumption

Poor Performance (Mixture too rich)

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Poor Idling

CONDITIONS w^>

Poor Performance (Mixture too lean)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

í • > > > > í

•

í î

•

• •

i < î

•

• • •

• •

•

BRAKES-SERVICE

BRAKES CONTENTS

Par. Page

SERVICE BRAKES POWER BRAKES (Piston Type)

— —

3 15

11 14 15 9 18 — 3 2 6 4 8 1 5 13 16 17 12 7 10

10 12 12 10 15 4 6 6 9 7 9 5 8 12 14 14 12 9 10

SERVICE INFORMATION Adjusting Brakes Adjusting Hand Brake (External Type) Adjusting Hand Brake Cable (External Type) Bleeding the Brake System Cyclebond Brake Lining General Information Grinding Recommendations Inspecting the Brake Shoes Inspecting Support Plates Installing the Brake Shoes Installing Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders Removing the Brake Shoes Removing the Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders Servicing Hand Brake (External Type) Servicing Hand Brake (Internal Type) Servicing Hand Brake Cable (Internal Type) Servicing Master Cylinder Servicing Wheel Cylinders Test for Fluid Contamination

Improper brake fluid Air in system Swollen rubber parts Broken or cracked drum Loose wheel bearings Loose pedal mounting bracket or master cylinder Incorrect shoe adjustment Master cylinder push rod adjustment Leaking or broken lines Loose cylinder bleed screws Drum "out of round" Hard spots on drum Improper or glazed lining Sprung shoes Water, mud, dirt in drums Torn or loose lining Weak pedal return spring Loose support plate bolts Bent master cylinder push rod

• • • •

•

• •

•

• • • • •

Pulsating

• •

•

• •

Dragging

Fading

Overheating

Side Pull

Grab or Lock

No Pedal Return

Binding

Pumping Necessary

Hard Pedal

Pressure Loss

No Reserve

POSSIBLE CAUSES T ,

Chattering Squealing

CONDITIONS m^

Spongy-Rubbery Pedal

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

•

• • • •

•

• •

i • •

• • • • •

•

• • •

•

• •

•

• •

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Pulsating

Dragging

Fading

Overheating

•

Side Pull

•

Grab or Lock

No Pedal Return

Pumping Necessary

•

Binding

Pedal linkage Push rods not engaged in brake shoe slots Axle shaft or axle shaft to dust shield run-out Loose spring "U" bolts Brake shoe guides have insufficient tension

Hard Pedal

Pressure Loss

No Reserve

POSSIBLE CAUSES X ,

Chattering Squealing

CONDITIONS mþ>

Spongy-Rubbery Pedal

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Cont¡nued)

• • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION A new type of service brake is used on the new Dodge models and is known as the Center Plane Brake. The main features of this new brake are; less pedal effort for a given stop; more pedal reserve; less brake fade; longer lining life; smoother operation; less frequent adjustment and, when needed, simple servicing operations. The brake shoe design and method of support are the main difíerences between the center plane brake and the conventional brakes, as shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. Additional difíerences are: full floating, shoes, rather than fixed anchor shoes; uniform pressure shoes, that have been designed to match drum deflection; a center plane support of these shoes, between two steel plates, and, an increased width of lining. The center plane brake shoes have contoured webs, (see Figure 1) which allow greater flexibility of the

shoes, causing the drum and shoes to match in rigidity to give similar deflections at any section. This eliminates high pressures at the toe and heel of the shoe, when the drum becomes more oval shaped than the shoes during hard or heavy breaking effort. This action allows uniform pressure distribution over the full length of the shoe lining arc and results in less pedal effort for a given stop. The braking action is centralized between the two support plates, as shown in Figure 2. These plates align

WHEEL BRAKE CYLINDER WHEEL BRAKE CYLINDER CONNECTING TUBE

BRAKE CYLINDER COOLING FINS

OUTER SUPPORT PLATE

TOE INNER SUPPORT PLATE

CONTOURED WEB DEPTH

CONSTANT WEB DEPTH

WHEEL STUD

ADJUSTING CAM

BRAKE SHOE WEB

HEEL

BRAKE SHIELD

BRAKE LINING

CONVENTIONAL BRAKE

BRAKE DRUM

CENTER-PLANE BRAKE 55X712

F¡g. i—Center Plane and Conventional Brake Shoes

55X713

F¡g. 2—Center Plane Brake (Sectional View)

BRAKES-SERVICE

CYLINDER ASSEMBLY ADJUSTING C A M SPRING LOOP

RETURN SPRING (5 COILS) SPRING LINK

SEAL

ANCHORS

57x47

Fig. 3—Center Plane Brake Assembly (Left Front)

the shoes and hold the anchors and wheel cylinders. The applying force from the piston and the shoe return springs are all in a center plane. Thusƒ the shoes do not tend to twist, (resulting in uneven contact) but are aligned in a single, centrally located plane. Side rattle of the shoes is controlled by guides, as shown in Figures 3 and 4. The guides maintain constant pressure against the web of the shoes. The wheel cylinders operate in the same manner as the conventional cylinders, but, are mounted on the brake support plate. Self energizing action is effective on a l l front brake shoes and the rear brake front shoe, when the vehicle is traveling forward; and self energizing action on the rear shoe of the rear brakes, when the vehicle is traveling in reverse. 1. REMOVING THE BRAKE SHOES Should it become necessary to remove the brake shoes UPPER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

for relining or complete replacement, refer to Figures 3 or 4, then proceed as follows: Removing the Front Brake Shoes (1) Block the brake pedal to prevent any downward movement of the pedal. (2) Remove the front wheel and drum as an assembly, after backing off the adjusting cams. (3) Using Tool C-3462, remove the shoe return springs, as shown in Figure 5. The end of the Tool should be inserted between the spring link and the support plate. With the tool cam slot engaging the spring hook, turn handle of the tool to disengage the spring. DO NOT USE BRAKE SPRING PLIERS, OR DAMAGE TO THE LINING WILL RESULT. (4) Turn the brake shoe guide retainer ¼ turn, then remove the retainer and guide, as shown in Figure 6.

The lip on the end of guide, is used for positioning the guide on the outer support plate. ANCHOR SUPPORT PLATE

ADJUSTING C A M / S P R I N G LINK

RETURN SPRING, (4 COILS)

RETURN SPRING (4 COILS)

ADJUSTING C A M RETAINER LOWER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY GUIDE SPRING SHIELD ANCHOR

57x46

Fig. 4—Center Plane Brake Assembly (Rear)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL (5) Slide the shoes from between the support plates, as shown in Figure 7.

Removing the Rear Brake Shoes

TOOL

57x49

Fig. 5—Removing Brake Shoe Return Spring

GUIDE SPRING

RETAINER

With the brake pedal blocked to prevent any downward movement, proceed as follows: (1) Back off the adjusting cams. (2) Remove the rear wheel as an assembly. Using puller. Tool C-845, remove the rear wheel drum. (3) Using Tool C-3462, remove the shoe return springs, as shown in Figure 8. The end of the tool should be inserted between the spring link and the support plate. With the tool cam slot engaging the spring hook, turn handle of tool to disengage the spring. DO NOT USE BRAKE SPRING PLIERS, OR DAMAGE TO THE LINING WILL RESULT. (4) Turn the brake shoe guide retainer ¼ turn, then remove the retainer and guide. (Refer to Figure 6). The lip on the e n d of g u i d e , is u s e d for positioning the g u i d e on the outer support p l a t e . (5) Slide the shoes from between the support plates. (Refer to Figure 7.)

INSPECTING THE BRAKE SHOES

Wipe or brush clean (dry) the metal portions of the brake shoes. Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are true. The lining should show contact across the entire width, extending from heel to toe. Shoes showing contact on only one side should be discarded. Shoes having sufficient lining but lack of contact at toe and heel, should be checked for proper under-drum diameter grind.

3. 57x48

Fig. 6—Removing or Installing Shoe Guides

57x50 Fig. 7—Removing Shoes from Support Plates

GRINDING RECOMMENDATIONS

B r a k e s h o e lining—New lining should be checked and ground to .010 to .024 inch under the drum diameter (if not pre-ground) on a machine having a cylindrical grinding wheel.

57x51

8—Removing Shoe Return Spring (Rear Wheel)

BRAKES-SERVICE D r u m ref acing—Measure the drum inside diameter with an accurate gauge. Drum diameter service limit should not exceed .004 inch out of round. If the drum diameter is in excess of .004 inch, the drum should be refaced. Do not remove more than .030 inch of metal during the refacing operation. The drum diameter measurement is then transferred to the grinder and the lining ground to the required clearance of .010 to .024 inch, under drum diameter. The grinding of brake linings need only be done if the cyclebond process is done in the dealership.

4. INSTALLING THE BRAKE SHOES Installing the Front Brake Shoes Before installing the front brake shoes, apply a light coat of lubriplate on the shoe wherever it contacts the support plate, then proceed as follows: (1) Slide the brake shoes into position between the support plates. B e sure t h e e n d s of t h e c y l i n d e r push rods e n g a g e the toe e n d of the s h o e s p r o p e r l y ( S e e Figure 7 ) . (2) Insert the four coil return springs in the hole in the brake shoe webs. (3) Using the tapered end of Tool C-3462, as shown in Figure 9, attach the return springs to the links. B e s u r e that the l o n g e n d of the s p r i n g i s h o o k e d into t h e w e b of t h e s h o e s to p r e v e n t t h e coil of the s p r i n g c o n t a c t i n g the s h o e . (4) Check the tension of the brake shoe return springs. The spring tension can be checked by hooking a scale at the toe of the shoe and pulling in the direction of piston movement. The scale should read from 35 to 45 pounds at the instant the toe of the brake shoe moves. A dial indicator may be used to indicate movement in place of a scale. (5) Lubricate the brake shoe guide contacting areas on the shoes with lubriplate, then install guides and re-

tainers (Refer to Figure 6.) B e s u r e t h e positioning lip of the guide slides into the hole in support plate. (6) Install the drum, and wheel and tire assembly, after backing off the adjusting cams. Adjust the front wheel bearings, as described in the Front Suspension Section. (7) Adjust the brakes, as described in Paragraph 11 of this Section.

Installing the Rear Brake Shoes Before installing the rear brake shoes, apply a light coat of lubriplate on the shoe wherever it contacts the support plate, then proceed as follows: (1) Slide the brake shoes into position between the support plates. Be sure the ends of the cylinder push rods engage the toe end of the shoes properly. (See Figure 7.) (2) Insert the five coil return springs in the loop of the table of the shoes, a s shown in Figure 10. (3) Using the tapered end of Tool C-3462, as shown in Figure 10, through the spring link, attach the springs to the link. (4) Lubricate the brake shoe guide contacting areas on the shoes with lubriplate, then install guides and retainers. (Refer to Figure 6.) B e s u r e t h e positioning lip of t h e g u i d e slides into t h e h o l e in support plate. (5) Check the tension of the brake shoe return springs. The spring tension can be checked by hooking a scale at the toe of the shoe and pulling in the direction of piston movement. The scale should read from 35 to 45 pounds at the instant the toe of the shoe moves. A dial indicator may be used to indicate movement in place of a scale. (6) Install the drum, wheel and tire assembly, after backing off the adjusting cams. LOOP

TOOL

57x53 57x52

Fig. 9—Attaching Shoe Return Spring to Spring Link

Fig. 10—Attaching Shoe Return Spring to Spring Link (Rear Wheel)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL (7) Adjust the brakes, as described in Paragraph 11 of this Section. 5.

REMOVING THE SUPPORT PLATES AND WHEEL CYLINDERS Should it become necessary to remove the support plates and wheel cylinders due to damage or wear, proceed as follows:

57x54

Fig. 11—Removing Brake Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders (Front Wheel)

SEALING COMPOUND

57x55

Fig. 12—Removing Wheel Cylinder Mounting Bolt (Front Wheel) DUST SEALS

57x56

Fig. 13—Removing Support Plate from Dust Shield (Front Wheel)

Removing the Front Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders (1) Remove the wheel and tire, then the brake drum. (2) Remove the four retaining nuts that attach the center plane support plates and dust shield to the steering knuckle. (3) Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the frame bracket. (4) Remove the four bolts that hold the brake assembly to the steering knuckle. (Refer to Figure 11 a n d note the location a n d size of bolts. T h r e e different l e n g t h s a r e used.) (5) Remove the brake assembly (with dust shield), as shown in Figure 11. Do not a l l o w the dust s h i e l d to strike the b e a r i n g surface of k n u c k l e a s d a m a g e m a y result. (6) Remove the brake shoes as described in Paragraph 1. (7) Remove the connecting tube between the wheel cylinders. Do not distort tube. (8) Remove each wheel cylinder mounting bolt after removing sealer (if present), as shown in Figure 12. Now, remove the support plate assembly from the dust shield, as shown in Figure 13. (9) Remove the wheel cylinders. If it is necessary to service the wheel cylinders, refer to Paragraph 7, Servicing The Wheel Cylinders. Removing the Rear Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders Should it become necessary to remove the support plates and wheel cylinders due to damage or wear, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the rear brake shoes, as described in Paragraph 1, steps 1 through 5. (2) Disconnect the brake tube at the wheel cylinder. Remove the nuts and lockwashers that hold the support plates and wheel cylinders to the dust shield and axle flange. (3) Slide the support plates out and away from the axle, as shown in Figure 14. When removing the dust shield, it is advisable to install the seal protector C-745, then slide dust shield and seal off axle. (4) Remove the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder to the support plates. Lift wheel cylinder away from the plates. Inspect and clean the support plates as described below. If reconditioning the wheel cylinders, refer to Paragraph 7, Servicing the Wheel Cylinders.

BRAKES-SERVICE CYLINDER RETURN SPRING

CUP EXPANDER PISTON CUP

PUSH ROD

CYLINDER BOOT

56x48

57x57

Fig. 14—Removing Support Plates and Wheel Cylinder (Rear Wheel)

6. INSPECTING THE SUPPORT PLATES Clean the support plates in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compressed air, then inspect as follows: Check the freeness of the adjusting cams and return spring links. The adjusting cams should turn without binding. Check the condition of the adjusting cam dust washers. If the washers are cracked or deteriorated, new ones should be installed at assembly. If any visual distortion of the support plates is apparent, new plates should be installed. The support plates must be flat and true. Coat the contact surfaces of the cams and anchors with lubriplate at reassembly. 7. SERVICING THE WHEEL CYLINDERS Wheel cylinder pistons that are badly scored or corBLEEDER SCREW

PISTON CUP

J ^

PISTON

Fig. 16—Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder (Sectional View)

roded should be replaced. The old piston cups should be discarded when reconditioning the hydraulic system. Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth, using a circular motion. However, cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, using Tool C-3080, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A cylinder that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.) Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the wheel cylinder, dip them in super brake fluid. Refer to Figures 15 or 16 then assemble the brake cylinders. If the boots are deteriorated, or do not fit tightly on the brake shoe pin, as well as the wheel cylinder casting, new boots should be installed. 8.

EXPANDER

PISTON SPRING

PUSH ROD 56x69

Fig. 15—Front Wheel Brake Cylinder (Sectional View)

INSTALLING THE SUPPORT PLATES AND WHEEL CYLINDERS Installing the Front Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders (1) Install the brake cylinders on the support plates, then position the support plates on the dust shield. (Be sure the dust washers are in place. (See Figure 13.) Now, install the wheel cylinder attaching bolts and tighten with the fingers until snug. (2) Lubricate the brake shoes as previously described, then slide into the support plates. (3) Install the four coil spring ends in the h o l e in the shoe webs at the table. Using the tapered end of Tool C-3462, inserted through the spring and link, slide the end of spring into link. (Refer to Figure 9.) (4) Install the brake shoe guides and retainers after lubricating the contact area of guide with lubriplate. (5) Install the wheel cylinder connecting tube, being careful not to bend or distort.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(6) Slide the brake assemblies over the steering knuckles. Install bolts, nuts and tighten to 55 foot pounds. Now, tighten the wheel cylinder attaching bolts to 35 foot pounds. (7) Turn the brake adjusting cams to the fully released position. Attach the brake hose to the frame bracket. (8) Install the drum and wheel assembly, then adjust the front wheel bearing, as described in Paragraph 5 of the Front Suspension Section. (9) Bleed and adjust the brakes as outlined in Paragraphs 9 and 11 of this Section.

installing the Rear Support Plates and Wheel Cylinders (1) Place the wheel cylinder on the support plate, then install the attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 35 foot pounds. (2) Lubricate the "ear" of the inner support plate with lubriplate, then slide brake shoes into position between the support plates. (3) Install the five coil spring ends in the l o o p in the shoe table. Using the tapered end of Tool C-3462, inserted through the spring and link, slide the end of spring into the link. (Refer to Figure 10.) (4) Install the brake shoe guides and retainers after lubricating the contact area of the guide with lubriplate.

Be sure the positioning lip of the guide slides into the hole in the support plate. (5) Install a new seal in the dust shield (if needed), then install seal protector C-745 into seal. Install dust shield and seal over axle shaft and down against flange. (6) Slide the brakes and support assembly over axle shaft and down against dust shield, making sure the dust washers are positioned around adjusting cams. (7) Install the lockwashers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 55 foot pounds. (8) Turn the brake adjusting cams to the fully released position, then attach the brake hose to the wheel cylinder. Remove Tool C-745 seal protector. (9) Insert key on slot in axle shaft, then install drum. Install wheel and tire, then bleed and adjust the brakes, as described in Paragraphs 9 and 11 of this section. 9. BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM Cleaning all dirt off, and from around the master cylinder reservoir cover and from the bottom of the power brake cylinder (if so equipped), so that dirt or grit will not drop into the reservoir when cover is removed. Automatic refiller, Tool C-837B (with adaptor C-3494A) provides a convenient way for keeping the master cylinder filled while bleeding the brake system. One m a n bleeder tank C-3496 with adaptor C-3494A may also be used. Follow the manufacturers operating instructions. Back off the adjusting cams to the fully released position. This allows the pistons in the wheel cylinders to

move back, and permits greater movement of the piston which will expel the air faster. Starting with the right rear wheel cylinder, wipe the dirt off the bleeder valve and attach bleeder hose, C-650 to the valve. Place the other end of the hose in a jar half full of brake fluid. This is to prevent air from being drawn into the system when the brake pedal is released. Pump brake fluid by pushing the brake pedal down and let it return slowly, to avoid air being drawn into the system. Bleed intermittently, opening and closing the valve about every four seconds. This causes a whirling action in the cylinder which helps expel the air. Continue this operation until brake fluid runs out of the bleeder hose in a solid stream, without any air bubbles. Continue bleeding by repeating this operation on the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and finally the left front wheel. (When bleeding the front wheel cylinders, bleed the lower cylinder first so as to force all air out of the connecting line.) If necessary, repeat the bleeding operation if there is an indication of air remaining in the system. Be sure to readjust the cams after the bleeding operation. 10. TEST FOR FLUID CONTAMINATION In order to determine if contamination exists in the brake fluid, as indicated by swollen, deteriorated rubber cups the following simple tests can be made. (1) Place a small amount of drained brake fluid in a small clear glass bottle. Separation of the fluid into two distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content. (2) Add water to the contents and shake. If the contents become milky, oil is present. If the contents remain clear, it is not contaminated with mineral oil. B e

safe and discard old brake fluid that has been bled from the system. Fluid drained from the bleeding operation may contain dirt particles or other contamination and should not be reused. 11. ADJUSTING THE BRAKES All cams (Âž 6 inch hex. head) operate against the toe end of the shoe web and extend through the brake dust shield. Since all four shoes in the front wheel brakes and the two forward shoes in the rear wheel brakes are self energized when the car is moving forward; these shoes are adjusted in one manner while the remaining two shoes in the rear wheels are adjusted differently, as shown in Figure 17. Whenever the brakes have been relined or new shoes have been installed, always apply pedal prior to adjusting the brakes. This action causes the brake shoes to center themselves in the brake drum and to assist in the adjustment.

BRAKES-SERVICE LEFT FRONT

RIGHT FRONT

RIGHT REAR

55X708

Fig. 17â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Brake Adjusting Diagram

Front Brake Adjustment Turn each adjusting cam on both front wheels in the direction of forward rotation, until the shoe lining is solid against the drum, (as shown in Figure 17) and wheel is locked. Turn the adjusting cam slowly in the opposite direction (each cam a little at a time) until no drag is felt.

Rear Brake Adjustment The forward rear wheel brake shoe adjusting cam is rotated in the direction of forward wheel rotation. The rearward rear brake shoe adjusting cam is rotated in the direction of rear wheel travel, as shown in Figure 17.

12.

SERVICING THE MASTER CYLINDER

Should it become necessary to remove the master cylinder for repair or overhaul, refer to Figure 18, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the pedal return spring. (2) Disconnect the push rod. (3) Disconnect the brake tube at the master cylinder. (4) Disconnect the stop light switch leads. (5) Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the master cylinder to the dash panel. Slide master cylinder straight out and away from dash panel. Clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly, then remove reservoir filler plug and drain all brake fluid. Refer to Figure 18 and disassemble master cylinder for inspection. If master cylinder piston is badly scored or corroded, replace with a new one. Piston cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning master cylinder. Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. However, cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than .002 inch. A master cylinder bore that does not clean up at .002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder used. (Black stains on the cylinder wall are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.) U s e BOLT-

ROD VALVE

NUT END

SCREW

55x81 A

Fig. 18â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Master Cylinder (Exploded View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

BOLT

BAFFLE GASKET BODY OUTLET PORT

PISTON WASHER 57x145

Fig. 19—Master Cylinder (Dimension Reference)

extreme care in cleaning master cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and clean a second time with alcohol. Dry master cylinder with air pressure, then flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure the relief port in the master cylinder is open.) Before assembling, the piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in new super brake fluid. (Refer to Figure 19 for master cylinder assembly dimension specifications.) 13. SERVICING HAND BRAKE (External Type) Removal and Installation (1) Remove adjusting bolt, nut and guide bolt, adjusting bolt nuts (3 and 1, Figure 20). (2) Remove anchor adjusting screw. Pull band^assembly away from transmission and off propeller shaft. 1 GUIDE BOLT l ADJUSTING NUT

(LOWER CLEARANCE)

3 ADJUSTING NUT

Relining Hand Brake Band (Band Removed) When band is removed, proceed as follows: (1) Remove old lining. (2) Cut the new lining ¼ inch longer than the required length so that there will be a slight bulge at the center when it is first installed in the band. (3) Drill and counter-bore four rivet holes (two at each end of the lining) to coincide with the holes at the extreme ends of the band. These counter-bores should be at least one-half the thickness of the lining. (4) Rivet the two extreme ends of the lining to the respective extreme ends of the band. Due to the ¼ inch excess length, the lining will now bulge slightly at the center of the band. Snap this lining in agcinst the band to make an even tight fit. (5) Install the remaining rivets, starting from each end and working alternately toward the center. (6) End-chamfer the two open ends of the lining to reduce noise and grabbing effect. Reinstall brake band in reverse disassembly procedure. 14. ADJUSTING HAND BRAKE (External Type) (1) Set hand brake lever in fully released position. Before adjusting b r a k e , b e s u r e that free p l a y ( b e t w e e n the a n c h o r b r a c k e t o n the c e n t e r of the b a n d a n d the s i d e s of the h a n d b r a k e s u p port) d o e s n o t e x c e e d . 0 0 5 i n c h . Otherwise, b a n d distortion m a y result u p o n a p p l i c a t i o n of the b r a k e . This free p l a y , if e x c e s s i v e , m a y be r e d u c e d by c o m p r e s s i n g the a n c h o r bracket in a v i s e or t a p p i n g it g e n t l y with a h a m m e r a g a i n s t a block or a n v i l . (2) Remove lock wire. Using feeler gauge, adjust anchor screw (2, Figure 20) so that clearance between band and drum at anchor is .015 to .020 inch. Lock anchor screw securely. (3) Adjustment of the guide bolt (1, Figure 20) should be such that both upper and lower half of band has a like amount of clearance. The guide bolt moves the lower half of band up to keep the upper half of the band from dragging and causing premature wear. Adjusting bolt nut (3, Figure 20) controls the upper half of the band. (4) Turn adjusting bolt nut (3, Figure 20), until there is just a slight drag on the drum, with upper and lower half having an equal amount of clearance. T h e lockwire, which retains the anchor bolt, must not be drawn up tight. This restriction will cause uneven wear and a poor brake.

(UPPER CLEARANCE)

_ ^ _

NUT

45 x 438

Fig. 20—External Contracting Hand Brake

15. ADJUSTING HAND BRAKE CABLE (External Type) Sometimes, after long service, the cable will stretch to such an extent that pulling back on the hand brake lever

BRAKES-HAND BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN

13 BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER

OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING OIL SEAL

BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER LINK

BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD

BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD SPRING

BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY

BRAKE SUPPORT

BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING

CABLE GUIDE CLAMP BRACKET ASSEMBLY

¯¯`—BRAKE SHØE ADJUSTING SCREW

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT

53x58

Fig. 21—Internal Expanding Hand Brake BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER LINK 4r BRAKE SHOE & LINING ASSY

BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR BRAKE SUPPORT

SHAFT FLANGE & BRAKE DRUM ASSY

BRAKE SUPPORT SPACER SLEEVE

BRAKE ADJUSTING SCREW COVER BRAKE ADJUSTING SCREW COVER SCREW

SHAFT FLANGE WASHER SHAFT FLANGE NUT BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD SPRING BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW LOCKWASHER BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW NUT BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE 53x3A

Fig. 22—Internal Expanding Hand Brake (Exploded View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

14 OPERATI LEVER

.CONTROL CABLE GUIDE CLAMP CLAMP BOLT, NUT A N D LQCK

WASHER

CABLE ADJUSTING NUT

tea* CONTROL C A B L E ^ CABLE SPRING SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW, NUT A N D SLEEVE BALL END OF CONTROL CABLE 50x137 A

Fîg. 23—Rear View of Internal Expanding Brake will not apply band to drum. Loosen lock nut (4, Figure 20), remove clevis pin from yoke and turn yoke until cable slack is taken up. Make certain that lock nut is tightened after assembly. (This is not a substitute for hand brake adjustment.)

16. SERVICING HAND BRAKE (Internal Type) The hand brake shown in Figure 21, is the internal expanding type and is used only on cars equipped with PowerFlite or TorqueFlite Transmissions. The brake is fully enclosed to keep out dirt and oil and requires very little servicing. Longer lining life is assured by protection against dirt and the use of Cyclebond linings. The adjustments, when needed, are very simple for both the steel control cable and the shoes.

Disassembly To service the internal expanding hand brake, refer to Figures 21 and 22, then proceed as follows: (1) Disconnect the propeller shaft at the transmission. (2) Engage holding Tool C-3281 with the companion flange, then loosen and remove the companion flange nut, lockwasher and flatwasher. (3) Install Puller Tool C-452 on the companion flange; removing flange and brake drum. (4) Disengage the ball end of cable from the operating lever. (5) Separate shoes at the bottom, allowing the brake shoe adjusting nut, screw and sleeve to drop out, then release the shoes. (6) Pry the brake shoe return spring up and over the right hand brake shoe pin, then work the spring out of the assembly. (7) Pry out the brake shoe retaining washer and remove outer guide.

(8) Slide each shoe out from under the guide spring. (As the shoes are removed, the operating lever strut will drop out of place.) (9) Seprarate the operating lever from the right hand brake shoe, by removing nut, lockwasher and bolt. The brake now has been disassembled as far as necessary for replacement of worn or damaged parts.

Assembly (1) Assemble the operating lever to the right hand brake shoe. (2) Slide the right and left hand brake shoes under the guide spring and up on top of the inner anchor guide. (3) Spread the shoes and insert the operating lever strut with the wide slot toward the operating lever, and the stamped "top" facing up. (4) Work the shoe return spring under the grease shield spring and secure ends in proper holes in webs of shoes, as shown in Figure 21. (5) Spread the bottom of both shoes apart and install the brake shoe adjusting nut screw and sleeve. B e s u r e to install the adjusting nut, s c r e w a n d s l e e v e in the p r o p e r position, a s s h o w n in F i g u r e 2 1 . If i n s t a l l e d in the r e v e r s e position, adjustment w o u l d b e difficult. (6) Place the outer anchor guide over the anchor, then secure shoes with retaining washer. (7) Turn the brake shoe adjusting nut until the shoes are in a released position, then install the brake drum. Be sure the b r a k e shoes a r e c e n t e r e d on the backing p l a t e a n d a r e free to m o v e . (8) Adjust the brake shoes and control cable as outlined below.

Adjustment (1) Remove adjusting screw cover plate. (2) Turn the brake shoe adjusting nut, as shown in Figure 23 to decrease shoe-to-drum clearance until a slight drag is felt on the drum. Back off adjusting nut at least one full notch (using Spanner Wrench C-3014) or until brake drum is free. B e s u r e t h e t w o r a i s e d s h o u l d e r s on t h e adjusting nut a r e s e a t e d i n the g r o o v e s on the adjusting s l e e v e . (3) Test the hand brake lever for travel. When properly adjusted, there should be from l ½ to 2 inches of hand brake lever rod travel. N e v e r substitute for a b r a k e s h o e adjustment by adjusting c a b l e . (4) Install the adjusting screw cover plate.

17. SERVICING HAND BRAKE CABLE (Internal Type) Removal If removal of the control cable is required for replacement or repair, proceed as follows: (1) Loosen the guide clamping bolt, as shown in Figure 23, then remove adjusting screw cover plate.

BRAKES-POWER (2) Pry the ball end of the cable up and out of the operating lever slot with a screwdriver. (3) Remove the control cable from the guide.

Installation (1) Slide cable into the guide, then insert Tool C-3015 between the spring retainer washer and the ball on the end of cable. (2) Hook the cable into the slot in the operating lever, with the lever between the ball and the washer, as

shown in Figure 23. The cable must be installed so that the cable conduit is not pulled taut between any of the fastening points. No kinks should be allowed in the conduit at any point and all bends in the conduit must be of a radius of not less than 6 inches. The conduit must not hang below the level of the frame between the frame clip and the cable guide clamp. Adjustment After the installation has been completed, adjust the cable as described below.

Always be sure that the hand brake lever handle is in the full returned position before the cable length adjustment is made. With adjustment made as described, the hand brake should not drag nor chatter. With the brake shoes adjusted properly there will be a free play in the brake operating lever. The hand brake cable adjusting nut should be positioned against the cable guide so that the brake operating lever is centered in its normal free play arc. To lock this adjustment, tighten the cable guide clamp securely and then tighten the hand brake cable lock nut against the adjusting nut. The cable adjusting nut should be held in position during this operation so that the cable length adjustment is not disturbed. 18. CYCLEBOND BRAKE LINING Pre-cemented cyclebond brake lining can be successfully bonded to either new or used shoes, providing certain proven steps are followed. See instructions contained in shop replacement packages.

POWER BRAKES CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Adjusting Pedal Linkage Cleaning General Information Inspection Installing the Power Brake in Vehicle Power Brake Adjustment Power Brake Operation Removing the Power Brake from Vehicle Servicing the Power Brake Testing the Power Brake (On the Bench) Testing the Power Brake (On the Vehicle)

Par. 10 5 — 6 8

Page

99 11

26 22 16 22 25 16 19 19 24 18

3 4 7 2

Leakage in internal hose connection to end plate or piston tube Leakage at balancing diaphragm Leakage at poppet diaphragm Leakage at rubber seat of poppet assembly

• • • •

Delay In Power Unit Assist

• • • •

Rough Engine Idle

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Vacuum Leak (Unit in Applied Position—Drop in Vacuum Gauge Reading in Excess of 1 Inch in 10 seconds).

CONDITIONS

Vacuum Leak (Unit in Released Position—Drop in Vacuum Gauge Reading in Excess of ¼ Inch in 60 seconds).

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Delay In Power Units Assist

Rough Engine Idle

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Vacuum Leak (Unit in Applied Position—Drop in Vacuum Gauge Reading in Excess of 1 Inch in 10 seconds).

CONDITIONS

Vacuum Leak (Unit in Released Position—Drop in Vacuum Gauge Reading in Excess of ¼ Inch in 60 seconds).

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

• • • •

Scored atmospheric seat at center of piston plate Leakage at valve rod seal Leak at piston packing Leak at mounting ring or at piston rod seal Vacuum leaks at reserve tank hose connections Weak or broken valve actuating spring Weak or broken pedal return spring

• • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION For orientation purposes, the piston rod end of the power brake unit will be referred to as the "forward" end of the unit and the air cleaner end will be designated as the "rear" of the unit. The power brake unit shown in Figure 1, is a vacuum power brake, designed for use with a master cylinder and pedal linkage of the reactionary type. A tube extending from the air cleaner at the rear, is connected to the intake manifold through a hose, a vacuum reservoir and a check valve. (See Figure 2.) The power brake consists of three basic components, namely, an eliptical shaped power cylinder, a vacuum CYLINDER VACUUM INSPECTION PORT

YOKE VACUUM TUBE CONNECTION 57x181

Fig. 1—Power Brake Assembly

piston and rod assembly and an internal poppet type control valve, as shown in Figure 3. The control valve operating rod moves within the piston rod and actuates the vacuum valve and poppet. The atmospheric valve seat is a part of the piston plate. The air cleaner is located at the rear end of the unit and connects directly into the cylinder at the rear side of the piston. When in a released position, the forward, or piston rod end of the unit is open to atmosphere, through the atmospheric valve port and open to vacuum (through the vacuum valve port) when in the applied position. With both sides of the piston open to atmospheric pressure, when in the released position, the unit is referred to as being "atmospheric" suspended. 1. POWER BRAKE OPERATION With the engine running and the brake pedal in the released position, the ramp at the upper end of the trigger arm rests against the end of the valve operating rod with sufficient force to compress the valve return spring and hold the valve in the released position, as shown in Figure 4. In the released position, the vacuum port is closed and the atmospheric port of the valve is open to admit air to the front side of the piston. The vacuum piston return spring holds the piston in the fully released position. As the brake pedal is depiessed, the trigger arm moves back, releasing sufficient pressure against the valve operating rod, to permit the valve return spring to close the atmospheric port, and open the vacuum port of the control valve. As the front chamber of the unit

BRAKES-POWER

REACTIONARY LINKAGE DASH PANEL INTERNAL VALVE POWER TO ENGINE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM CHECK VALVE

MASTER

rfS

` CYLINDER—H

l«

J ^ - V A C U U M RESERVOIR HYDRAULIC TUBE TO 57×U5 WHEEL CYLINDERS

Fig. 2—Power Brake System

assumes a state of vacuum, the piston moves forward and applies power to the upper end of the power lever. Power is then transmitted to the master cylinder through the reactionary linkage and the master cylinder push rod, as shown in Figure 5. Since the valve and rod mechanism are housed within the piston and piston rod assembly, any movement of the piston and rod results in a like movement of the valve rod. Any movement of the valve rod forward, increases the pressure against the ramp at the upper end of the trigger arm, to close the vacuum port of the control valve, and arrest any further increase in brake application. To increase brake application, it is necessary to increase the pressure against the brake pedal, which permits the valve return spring to reopen the vacuum port and increase the vacuum in the front chamber of the unit. When the desired degree of brake application is

VACUUM HOSE VACUUM TUBE

VACUUM VALVE PASSAGE

57x178 Fig. 4—Power Brake (Released Position)

reached, and the driver holds a given pressure against the brake pedal, no further increase in power application will take place. With the brake pedal held at a given pressure, the piston and rod will move only to the point where the load on the valve rod is increased by the ramp on the trigger arm sufficient to close the vacuum port, as shown in Figure 6. The point where both the vacuum and atmospheric ports are closed, is referred to as the "holding position." With the control valve in the "holding position," any degree of brake application will be held. As soon as the pressure against VACUUM CHAMBER

RETURN SPRING GASKET SPRING SEAL VALVE ROD RETURN SPRING

YOKE

AIR CLEANER PISTON ROD APPLIED ATMOSPHERIC VALVE OPERATING VACUUM CHAMBER ROD DIRECTION VALVE ATMOSPHERIC VALVE (PORT OPEN) (PORT CLOSED)

Fig. 3—Power Brake (Sectional View)

57x176

•

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x179

Fig.

57x180

-Power Brake (Applied Position)

the brake pedal is released, sufficiently to reopen the atmospheric port, a balance of pressure is established on both sides of the vacuum piston. The vacuum piston return spring is now free to return the piston to the fullyreleased position and release the brakes. Operation of the Reactionary Linkage With the brake pedal in the released position, the pedal return spring holds the valve trigger pin against the forward end of the slot in the power lever. (Refer to Figure 4.) In this position, sufficient pressure is applied by the ramp at the upper end of the trigger arm, to hold the valve operating rod in the released position. When pressure is applied to the brake pedal, the trigger arm pin moves to the opposite side of the slot in the power lever, as shown in Figure 5, to reduce the force against the end of the valve operating rod sufficiently to permit the valve return spring to close the atmospheric port, and open the vacuum port, thus connecting the forward side of the vacuum piston to intake manifold vacuum to apply the brakes. As the piston begins to move, the force of the piston is transmitted through the piston rod and lever pin, to the lever (the greater part of this force being transmitted through the power lever to the master cylinder push rod). During any degree of braking, a small percent of the power developed by the unit, reacts back through the pedal linkage to oppose the pressure applied by the driver, thus assuring the driver of "pedal feel," as well as position control. Since the piston rod tends to overtravel the valve rod, the control valve automatically returns to its mid position; a position where both the vacuum and atmospheric ports are closed. In this position, the trigger arm pin is at the mid position in the slot of the power lever and any

FÂĄg. Âżâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Power Brake (Holding Position)

degree of braking that was attained, will be held. This position is referred to as the "holding position." In this position, the power unit forces and the forces applied to the brake pedal are in balance. 2.

TESTING THE POWER BRAKE

(On the Vehicle) To test the power system for operation on the vehicle with vacuum, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the screw plug from the mounting ring and connect the test fitting, hose and vacuum gauge at this port. (2) With the brakes in the released position, start the engine and allow to idle, while observing the vacuum gauge. (A zero reading indicates that the power unit is fully released.) A vacuum gauge reading of one to 16 inches or more indicates that the power unit is not releasing properly which may be due to faulty pedal adjustment or faulty power unit operation. (3) Depress the brake pedal slowly and observe the vacuum gauge reading. (A vacuum gauge reading of one to 16 inches or more, depending upon pressure applied to the pedal; indicate that the power unit is operating.) A zero reading on the gauge indicates faulty power unit operation, restriction in the vacuum supply line, or the brake pedal requires corrective service. (4) Failure of the power unit to function properly indicates the need for corrective service. Before p r o c e e d -

ing with any corrective measures, first determine if the source of vacuum is satisfactory. If a vacuum gauge is not available, proceed as follows:

BRAKES - POWER (5) Depress the brake pedal several times to deplete any vacuum in the system and reservoir.

REMOVING THE POWER BRAKE FROM VEHICLE Should the above tests indicate the need for an overhaul, remove the power brake unit from the vehicle a s follows: (1) Insert a wooden block or wedge between the power lever and the bracket. (The use of a wedge or block will prevent damage to the ramp of the trigger arm.) (2) Scratch alignment marks across the power unit adjacent to the vacuum test port, and across the mounting bracket. Then between the mounting bracket and the fire wall. (3) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the end of the power unit. (4) Remove the bolts that attach the power unit mounting bracket to the fire wall. Slide unit and bracket straight out from fire wall and out of engine compartment. Now, remove power unit from mounting bracket.

(6) Depress and hold the pedal partially depressed while starting the engine. As soon as the engine starts, the pedal will fall away under the pressure applied. (7) Shut off e n g i n e and then, depress the pedal from six to ten times. There should be a noticeable increase in the effort required to depress the pedal to the same point the last time compared to the first, as the vacuum in the system is depleted. (8) If there is n o noticeable difference in the pedal effort with or without the engine running, check for a restriction in the vacuum supply hose, air cleaner, incorrect pedal adjustment or faulty power unit operation. (9) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power unit and place a finger over end of hose. A high vacuum indicates that vacuum is being applied to the unit. If n o vacuum is present at the end of the vacuum hose when the engine is running, a restriction in the vacuum supply is apparent and should be corrected.

4. SERVICING THE POWER BRAKE To disassemble the power brake unit for repair or overhaul, refer to Figure 7, then proceed as follows: Do not clamp the yoke of the unit in a vise or allow the piston cylinder to become dented during the disassembly operation. (1) Place a scribe mark across the flange of cylinder and end plate, then remove the attaching nuts and bolts.

(10) If vacuum is being supplied to the unit, check the pedal linkage adjustment a s described in Paragraphs 9 and 10. If all adjustments are made according to the recommended procedure and the unit fails to function properly, remove the unit from the vehicle for complete overhaul.

AIR CLEANER CYLINDER NUT (4) BALANCING

PISTON PACKING / PINS PACKING PLATE WICKING EXPANDER SPRING RETAINER PLATE SCREW (5) VALVE DIAPHRAGM HOUSING SCREW (4) i

(5y^ar¾^^v¼iL·ir¾^^835' SNAP

NYLON BUTTON STOP WASHER PISTON ROD VALVE ROD MOUNTING RING SPRING SEAL GASKET BOLT (4) END PLATE 57x177

F¡g. 7—Power Brake (Exploded View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

END PLATE

PISTON

CYLINDER

AIR CLEANER TUBE

HOUSING PISTON

57x182

VACUUM H O S E '

RETAINER

«a`.«!$- " - # ^ NUTS

Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Vacuum Hose

CYLINDER

-•<

AIR CLEANER

VALVE SCREWS

SPRING 57x185

Fig. 11—Removing Valve Housing from Piston DIAPHRAGM

DIAPHRAGM

S ? R | N G

"SPRING

AIR CLEANER TUBE

RETAINER -PLATE

FILTER HAIR

VALVE

SCREWS ¯

¯"¯¯¯¯

57x183

RETAINER PLATE

Fig. 12—Disassembling Valve

Fig. 9—Removing Air Cleaner and Filter END PLATE HOUSING BALANCING PIN

57x186

NYLON BUTTON

PISTON

SEAL

57x187

Fig. 13—Removing Nylon Button from Rod V A C U U M HOSE 57x184

Fig. 10—Removing or Installing the Balancing Pin Slide the vacuum piston out of the cylinder. Reach inside and slide the hose off the air cleaner tube, as shown in Figure 8. Remove the cylinder to end plate "O" ring. (2) Remove the air cleaner attaching screws, then disengage air cleaner and filter from the cylinder, as shown in Figure 9.

(3) Remove the hose from the vacuum tube. Remove the balancing pin diaphragm from the end of pin housing. Using long nose pliers, remove the balancing pin, as shown in Figure 10. (4) Remove the tube and housing attaching screws, then separate housing from piston, as shown in Figure 11. Remove the valve parts and disassemble as follows: (5) Remove the valve retaining plate from the diaphragm by compressing diaphragm, as shown in Figure 12. Now, remove the spring, then peel diaphragm from valve. (See Figure 12.)

BRAKES - POWER (6) Using a thin blade screwdriver and a 1" x 1" block, pry the nylon button from the end of the valve shaft, as shown in Figure 13. Slide the valve rod seal from end of rod. (7) Using pliers Tool C-3229, remove the snap ring that retains the valve rod in the piston, as shown in Figure 14. (8) Slide the valve rod washer and spring off end of rod, as shown in Figure 15. Now, slide the valve rod out of piston, as shown in Figure 16. (9) Drive out the piston rod retaining pins,, using a ¾c inch drift, as shown in Figure 17. Remove piston from rod. Use care when driving out pins, as the return spring is under pressure* and may cause piston to snap off rod end. (10) Remove the return spring, then slide piston rod out from end plate, as shown in Figure 18. Remove the rubber stop washer. (11) Remove the bolts that attach the mounting ring to the end plate. Separate end plate from mounting

PISTON

VALVE ROD

SNAP RING NYLON BUTTON'

*^·—WASHER

57x190

Fig. 16—Removing Valve Rod from Piston

PISTON SPRING

PISTON ROD

TOOL

RETAINING PINS (2)

SEAL

PISTON NYLON BUTTON ¯'·'`~'

57x191

57x188

Fig. 17—Driving out Retaining Pins Fig. 14—Removing or Installing Snap Ring

VALVE ROD WASHER \ SPRING

NYLON BUTTON

END PLATE

SEAL STOP WASHER

PISTON ROD 57x189

. ¶5—Removing or Installing Spring and Washer

57x192

Fig. 18—Removing Piston Rod from End Plate

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON

MOUNTING RING

TOOL

¿7xi93

57x207

Fig. 21—Piston Installed in Assembly Tool

Fig. 19—Removing Mounting Ring PACKING

PISTON

RETAINER PLATE

ring, then remove the seal retainer spring, piston and rod leather seal and mounting ring gasket, as shown in Figure 19. Remove the vacuum inspection port screw and gasket from the mounting ring. (12) Remove the screws that hold the retainer plate to the piston plate. Separate retainer and piston plate, then remove the expander spring, wick, packing plate, and leather packing, as shown in Figure 20. 5. CLEANING Clean all metal parts in a suitable solvent then blow dry with compressed air (including recesses and internal passages). Wash rubber parts in clean alcohol. After parts are cleaned, place on clean paper or cloth and inspect as follows:

TOOL

57x208

Fig. 22—Packing and Retainer Plate Installed WICKING

6. INSPECTION Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace worn or damaged parts with new. Check the inside of the vacuum cylinder. If cylinder is rusted or corroded, polish with fine steel wool or crocus cloth. If inspection reveals nicks or scratches on the piston rod, valve seat (on end of valve rod) or valve seat (at center of piston plate) PACKING PLATE Plòl"ON LEATHER PACKING

57x209

Fig. 23—Installing W¡ck¡ng

RETAINER PLATE (SPRING)

install new parts at assembly as required. Check the leather packing and piston rod leather seal. If worn excessively, install new parts as required.

WICKING EXPANDER SPRING 57x194

Fig. 20—Disassembling the Piston

Assembling the Power Brake When reassembling the Power Brake, be sure and use new gaskets and apply silicone grease to those parts requiring lubrication as required. To assemble the power brake, refer to Figure 7, then proceed as follows: (1) Place the vacuum piston in assembly Tool C-3578,

BRAKES - POWER with the threaded holes in the piston facing up, as shown in Figure 21. (2) Place the leather packing on the piston with the lip side up. Now, place the packing retainer plate on the packing, with the raised portion side up and the holes in the plate aligned with those in the piston, as shown in Figure 22. (3) Coil the cotton wick inside the packing lip and cut to the required length, as shown in Figure 23. Remove the wick and dip in vacuum cylinder oil. Let excess oil drip off then install in packing as shown. NOTCH

I M O U N T I N G RING

VACUUM PORT HOLE SCREW

VACUUM PORT HOLE

57x212

TANG EXPANDER SPRING GRIPPER POINTS

Fig. 26—Installing the Mounting Ring

YOKE AND PISTON ROD STOP WASHER MOUNTING RING

WICKING

END PLATE SEAL

.¿'í¾?'r

Fig. 24—Installing Expander Spring

F¡g. 27—Installing Piston Rod through Seal

VACUUM HOLES ALIGNED

57x211

Fig. 25—Installing Gasket, Seal and Spring

(4) Install the expander spring inside of wicking, with the gripper points next to the wicking, as shown in Figure 24. Engage the notch at the loop end of spring with the hook at the opposite end. (5) Install the expander spring retainer plate, then align the holes in the plate with the threaded holes in the piston plate. Install screws and tighten securely. Do not r e m o v e Tool from piston until r e a d y to install i n v a c u u m c y l i n d e r . (6) Insert the vacuum inspection port screw and gasket into the mounting ring. Now, insert the ring retaining bolts through the holes in the end plate. Apply silicone grease to the outer face of the gasket around the center hole. Slide gasket down over bolts. (Be sure vacuum

port opening in gasket is aligned with opening in end plate. (See Figure 25.) (7) Place a new piston rod leather seal on the gasket, with the raised shoulder up. Now slide spring over shoulder and seat against seal, as shown in Figure 25. Center the seal and spring. (8) Coat the bearing surface of the mounting ring with silicone grease, then slide mounting ring down over bolts (with recessed side next to gasket and the vacuum port holes aligned) until threads are contacted, a s shown in Figure 26. Tighten bolts securely. When properly assembled, the outer rim of the mounting ring should contact the end plate. (9) Slide the rubber stop washer over the piston rod and up against the steel washer. Now, place pilot, Tool C-3579 on end of piston rod, then insert through leather seal in end plate, as shown in Figure 27. Remove Tool. Install piston spring over piston rod and down against end plate. (10) Slide the vacuum piston on piston rod and up against the shoulder. Now, install the retaining pins, as shown in Figure 28. Hold rod seated during operation. (11) Slide the valve rod through the center of the pis-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

24 RETAINING PIN

CYLINDER

PISTON SPRING

END PLATE

VACUUM TUBE CONNECTION 57x216

57x214 Fig. 28—Installing Piston Retaining PHIS

Fig. 30—Installing Filter Hair

ton and piston rod until the end of rod protrudes, as shown in Figure 29. Slide the valve rod spring and retainer washer over end of rod. (12) Compress the spring, then install the snap ring in the groove of the valve rod, using pliers C-3229, as shown in Figure 14. (13) Install the valve rod seal over the end of the valve rod and piston rod. To aid i n seal assembly, turn the seal partially inside out and slide the small diameter end of the seal over the valve rod first, then slide the large diameter over the end of the piston rod. Slide the nylon button over the end of the valve rod and press until seated. (14) Slide the small diameter of the valve diaphragm over the small shoulder on the valve, as shown in Figure 12. (15) Compress the diaphragm enough to allow the valve spring to be installed; (small diameter first) and down against valve plate. Holding the diaphragm compressed, install the retainer plate. Seat evenly on diaphragm. (16) Center the valve and retainer plate on the piston. Place the vacuum tube and pin housing on the retainer

plate, making certain that the bead of the diaphragm is in the annular groove of the housing and that the screw holes are aligned. (17) With the scribe marks in alignment, install the attaching screws and tighten securely. Install the balancing pin and diaphragm, then slide vacuum hose over tube of housing. (18) Slide a new "O" ring gasket over piston and down on the shoulder of end plate. Now, insert air cleaner tube of the filter housing through hole in vacuum cylinder. Place air cleaner housing against cylinder, align holes, then install attaching screws. Tighten securely. (19) Remove Tool C-3578 from the piston assembly, then place in position in front of cylinder. Reach inside and connect vacuum hose with air cleaner tube. Now slide piston into cylinder. Install the end plate to cylinder bolts and nuts. Tighten securely. Using a thin blade screw driver, or a 6 inch scale ruler, press air cleaner filter hair into housing, as shown in Figure 30. After the brake has been completely assembled, proceed to test as follows:

END PLATE

57x215

PISTON

^mß^

VALVE ROD

Fig. 29—Installing Valve Rod

7. TESTING THE POWER BRAKE (On the Bench) Testing of the unit consists of making operational and leakage tests. When vacuum is applied te the power cylinder without a force being applied to the end of the valve operating rod, the vacuum piston can move out to the end of the stroke unrestricted. Operational Test (1) Apply from 15 to 20 inches of vacuum to the vacuum tube at the air cleaner end of the power cylinder. If the valve is not depresed, the piston and yoke will move to the fully extended (or applied) position, when vacuum is applied to the unit.

BRAKES - POWER During the operation tests, the power cylinder piston should move throughout its full stroke without hesitation.

Leakage Test To make a leakage test, a vacuum source, vacuum gauge and a shut off valve are necessary. The gauge should be close to the power unit and the shut off valve so arranged that the volume of the test line should not exceed 6 cubic inches in volume. (1) Press in on the valve operating rod sufficiently to compress the valve rod spring. Now apply 15 to 20 inches of vacuum to the power cylinder, then close the vacuum shut off valve. The amount of vacuum leakage should not exceed ½ inch, in 60 seconds. (2) Open the vacuum shut off valve, then release the valve operating rod and allow the piston to travel to the end of its stroke. Close the shot off valve and note the leakage. Vacuum leakage should not exceed 1 inch in ten seconds.

INSTALLING THE POWER BRAKE IN VEHICLE

When installing the power brake in the vehicle, be sure and align the scribe marks made at the start of disassembly. (1) Place the mounting bracket on the power unit, with the vacuum test port and the mark on the mounting bracket in alignment. (2) Align the scribe marks on the fire wall with the mounting bracket, then guide the yoke end of the piston rod through the hole in the fire wall so that the slot in the yoke at the end of the piston rod slides over the power lever pin. PEDAL TRIGGER ARM

(3) Install the bolts and nuts that attach the mounting bracket to the fire wall. Now, remove the wooden block (or wedge) from between the power lever and the pedal linkage mounting bracket. Tighten the attaching bolts securely. (4) Slide vacuum hose over the vacuum tube at the end of the power brake unit. Install clamp.

POWER BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

Normally no adjustments are required, as the valve lever ramp and reactionary pedal linkage are adjusted at the factory. However, if the performance of the power brake is unsatisfactory, a slight adjustment of the linkage may be necessary. The following checks will indicate the need for further adjustment: (1) Start the engine and allow to warm up, then apply the brake several times. If there is a noticeable drag in the release of the brake pedal, loosen the valve trigger adjustment screw locknut (see Figure 31). Rotate the adjusting screw slightly in a counter-clockwise direction. Retighten the locknut. If there is a time lag or delay in making a fast brake application, rotate the adjusting screw slightly in a clockwise direction. In either case, recheck brake operation after making the adjustment and increase or decrease as required to provide no lag in brake release or application. T h e rotation of t h e a d j u s t i n g s c r e w s h o u l d b e l i m i t e d to 9 0 ° from t h e v e r t i c a l position ( a r r o w u p ) . (2) To check for correct adjustment of the master cylinder push rod, insert the end of a screwdriver between the power lever and the brake pedal and move the pedal lever pin to the left side of the slot in the power lever. (3) While holding the levers in this position, check

POWER BRAKE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

RETURN SPRING

POWER LEVER PIN

-^i

áf

YOKE POWER LEVER

PEDAL M O U N T I N G BRACKET

TRIGGER ' PIVOT BOLT

ÜP

MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY

r*^TRIGGER A ADJUSTING ' \ SCREW

HAIRPIN CLIP mm PUSH ROD END PIN FRONT OF DASH PANEL —

,¾· : v

\ BRAKE PEDAL SHAFT

MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD BRAKE PEDAL 57x217

Fig. 31—Power Brake Nomenclature

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

the free play in the brake pedal (the distance the brake pedal travels before moving the master cylinder piston). The free play should be from ¼ to ¼ inch. (4) To d e c r e a s e free play, loosen the locknut on the master cylinder push rod and turn the push rod away from the pedal rod. To increase free play, turn the push rod toward the pedal rod. Retighten locknut after making adjustment. Pedal Free Play Adjustment Check the pedal free play at no vacuum, a s follows: (1) Remove the vacuum hose and press the brake pedal several times to aid in obtaining a no vacuum condition. (2) Insert the blade of a screwdriver between the rubber collar of the trigger pivot and the rear side of the elongated hole in the power brake lever, forcing them

apart. If the brake pedal and the power brake lever are not wedged apart, a false free play setting will be measured at the pad end of the pedal. (3) Check the free play with the linkage in this position, by pushing lightly at the pad end of the brake pedal. The pedal free play travel should be between ¾ 2 a n a ¼ inch. If the pedal free play movement does not come within the required limits, make the adjustment by lengthening or shortening the push rod as required.

Alternate Method of Measuring Pedal Free Play (1) Remove the master cylinder push rod end pin. Then, using a light finger pressure, move the push rod forward until contact is made with the master cylinder piston. (2) Try and insert the push rod end pin through the power lever and push rod end hole. If the push rod must be pulled back, to allow passage of the push rod pin, free play is present. (3) If the push rod must be pushed further into the master cylinder to allow passage of the push rod end pin, no free play is present, and an adjustment must be made on the push rod.

(3) Remove the pivot bolt that attaches the pedal to the bracket. (4) Slide the pedal assembly out of the mounting bracket being careful not to damage or bend the trigger arm.

Installing Brake Pedal In Bracket Extreme care must be taken when reassembling and handling the pedal assembly to prevent the trigger arm from being damaged or bent. (1) When installing the pedal in the bracket, (power unit removed) insert wooden wedge between the brake lever and the forward edge of the slot in the pedal bracket. This will prevent the trigger arm from extending beyond the edge of the bracket. Now install pedal, in reverse of removal procedure described above. The wedge can also serve to correctly position the pedal linkage, when the power brake and upper reinforcement plate are attached to the dash panel. If the pedal linkage is allowed to extend through the hole in the dash panel, the trigger arm may be damaged or bent. This would require a complete readjustment of the pedal linkage. Pedal Trigger Adjustment (1) With the adjusting screw in the position shown in Figure 32, clamp or wedge the brake pedal pivot to the rear side of the hole in the power lever until the adjusting screw collar is compressed and metal to metal contact is made. (A screwdriver can be used.) (2) Install gauge C-3508, over the brake lever pin. Align the scribed centerline of the gauge with the centerline of the pedal, (see Figure 32). Now, turn the adjusting screw until the outer curved surface of the trigger arm rests exactly even with the inner scribed circle and within the scribed arc lines on the gauge. This dimension must be .640 plus or minus .005 inch. (3) To check the .730 inch measurement, (the outer scribed circle) remove the wedge and lightly press on GAUGE

TRIGGER PIVOT

10. ADJUSTING PEDAL LINKAGE

(On the Bench)

If the power brake pedal linkage has been removed for service, the following check and adjustment must be made on the bench, before reinstalling the linkage on the car. Removing Pedal from Bracket To remove the pedal from the mounting bracket for replacement of nylon bushings, or trigger arm, refer to Figure 2, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the pedal return spring. (2) Remove the master cylinder push rod retaining pin.

F¡g. 32—Power Brake Trigger Adjustment

CLUTCH the pedal to bring the outer curved surface of the trigger arm exactly even with the outer scribed circle on the gauge, and within the scribed arc lines on the gauge, as shown in Figure 32. (4) If the curvature of the trigger arm does not fall within the scribed lines and the concentricity of the .640 and the .730 inch circles, it can usually be brought within the desired radius by carefully bending the trigger arm until conformation has been obtained. However, if the trigger is out an excessive amount, install a

new trigger arm, then adjust as described, to conform to the gauge. It will be necessary to recheck the .640 inch measurement as described above.

Servicing the Master Cylinder The master cylinder can be bled and the push rod end assembled at the proper length, as described in the Service Brake Section of this Manual. (The service procedures covering the power brake master cylinder are the same as on the conventional master cylinder.)

CLUTCH CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

Page

7 8 — 1 5 6 4 2 3 9

34 35 29 29 33 34 33 30 32 35

Adjusting Over-Center Spring and Clutch Pedal Free Movement Clutch Housing Alignment General Information Removal and Installation of Clutch Removing or Installing Clutch Fork Replacing Clutch Torque Shaft Pivot Bushings Servicing Clutch Shaft Pilot Bushing Servicing the Clutch Cover Servicing the Clutch Cover (Model 100131-1) Steam Cleaning Precautions

Bent or badly worn driven plate Oily clutch facings that have become flaky from heat Improper lever adjustment Incorrect disc facing material Defective, worn or glazed clutch facings Sticking pressure plate Improper pedal free play adjustment Oil soaked, badly worn or damaged clutch facings Sticking pressure plate Weak pressure springs Sticking release sleeve or retarded travel of clutch pedal Distorted pressure plate Bent driven plate or oily facings Excessive free travel of clutch pedal Badly warn release levers or other release mechanism parts Defective or damaged spline in driven plate hub or on transmission clutch shaft Weak or broken release lever anti-rattle spring Broken fork pull back spring Excessive clearance between release bearing sleeve and transmission front bearing retainer Unequal contact of release levers

• •

• • • • • • • •

Heavy Pedal |

Vibrating

Grinding

Squeaking

Rattling

• • • •

Gear Rattle |

Dragging

Slipping

POSSIBLE CAUSES

^ >

Grabbing

CONDITIONS

Chattering

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Oil in clutch disc friction hub Excessive backlash in transmission or propeller shaft Wrong clutch disc Dry or binding pilot bushing Lack of lubrication in release bearing sleeve Pressure plate driven lugs rubbing on cover stamping Worn or dry pilot bushing Worn release bearing Worn pinion shaft bearing Loose engine in frame Improper balance of assembly Worn universal joints Loose flywheel Loose emergency brake drum Worn transmission mainshaft rear bearing Lack of lubrication on linkage parts Binding clutch pedal or linkage parts Incorrect overcenter spring Incorrect overcenter spring adjustment Worn or binding cover and pressure plate components

Grinding

Vibrating

Heavy Pedal

Squeaking

| Rattling

Gear Rattle

Grabbing

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Chattering

CONDITIONS I M -

Dragging

DIAGNOSIS-(Cont¡nued) 1

SERVICE

Slipping

• • • • • • • • • >

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The clutch is of the single dry disc type, with no adjustment for wear being provided in the clutch itself. An individual adjustment is provided for locating each lever in the manufacturing, and should never be disturbed, unless the clutch is to be removed from the car for repair or overhauling. Clutch Adjustment in the Car The only adjustment required while the clutch is in the car, is linkage adjustment to obtain the correct amount of clutch pedal free play. Clutch pedal free play is the movement of the pedal before the clutch starts to disengage. Linkage adjustment is required to restore pedal free play when it has been reduced by normal wear of the clutch. It is very important that when rebuilding or installing a clutch on a car with a standard transmission, that the correct clutch, disc, pressure plate and springs be installed. (Refer to Specifications Section of this manual.) 1.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CLUTCH The only service maintenance required is regular

periodic lubrication of the clutch release torque shaft. However, improper operation or excessive wear may impair the clutch function to the point which may necessitate its removal and overhaul. The clutch can be removed only after the transmission has been removed. To remove the clutch, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the transmission. (2) Remove the clutch housing pan. (3) Pull out the clutch release bearing and sleeve. (4) Mark the clutch cover and flywheel to assure that cover and flywheel will be correctly matched in assembly. Now, remove the bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel, loosening each bolt a few turn* (Li succession) until cover is free. (5) The clutch disc and pressure plate assembly can then be removed from the clutch housing. For further disassembly of the clutch pressure plate, refer to Paragraphs 2 or 3 of this Section.

Clutch Installation When installing the clutch, observe the following precautions: (1) Coat the clutch shaft pilot bushing (in end of crankshaft) with medium short fibre wheel bearing

CLUTCH

COVER RELEASE LEVER

RELEASE LEVER SPRING

SPRINGS STRUT

PIN DISC ASSEMBLY EYEBOLT

EYEBOLT NUTS

52x524A

Fig. 1—Typical Clutch Assembly (Exploded View) (8-Cyl¡nder Engines)

PIN`

COVER 52x525B

Fig. 2—Typical Clutch Assembly (Exploded View) (6-Cylinder Engine)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

with pilot studs tool C-730. Care should be taken, in order not to bend the clutch disc by allowing the transmission to hang. Support the transmission with a suitable jack, then slide into place and secure with bolts. Now, adjust the clutch pedal free play.

Fig. 3—Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor (Tool C¯36O)

grease (about a half teaspoon). Place grease in radius at back of bushing. (2) Clean the surface of the flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly, making certain that all oil or grease has been removed. (3) Hold the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover in mounting position, with the springs on the disc damper facing away from the flywheel. D o n o t touch disc facing, as clutch chatter may result. Now, insert clutch disc aligning tool C-360 through hub of disc and into the pilot bushing, as shown in Figure 3. (If Tool C-360 is not available, use a spare transmission drive pinion clutch shaft.) (4) Insert the clutch cover attaching bolts (after aligning balance punch marks) but do not draw down. (5) To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, the bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time (alternately) until they are all tight. Torque the bolts from 15 to 20 foot-pounds. Now, remove Tool C-360 or pinion shaft (if used). (6) Install the transmission by guiding into position

SERVICING THE CLUTCH COVER (8 Cylinder Engines)

With the clutch cover and pressure plate removed from the car, proceed a s follows: (1) Mark the cover and pressure plate with a prick punch, as shown in Figure 4, so that they may be assembled in their original position to maintain balance. (2) Mount the clutch assembly on compressing fixture Tool C-585A, as shown in Figure 4. (3) Install the three-legged spider over the center screw, so that it rests directly on top of the clutch cover. (4) Install the thrust washer and compression nut, then compress assembly by tightening the compression nut. (5) With the assembly under pressure, remove the clutch release lever eyebolt nuts. Now, release the pressure by unscrewing the compression nut slowly in order to prevent the springs from flying out. (6) The cover can now be lifted off exposing all parts for cleaning and inspection. It i s i m p o r t a n t that a n o t a t i o n i s m a d e of t h e l o c a t i o n of p a r t s , i n c l u d i n g t h e a r r a n g e m e n t of t h e s p r i n g s . (7) Grasp the lever and eyebolt between the thumb and fingers, a s shown in Figure 5, so that inner end of lever and the upper end of eyebolt are close together (keep the eyebolt pin seated in its socket in the lever). (8) Lift strut over ridge on end of lever and then remove lever and eyebolt from the pressure plate.

Inspection Clean all parts thoroughly using a suitable solvent, then inspect carefully for excessive wear or distortion.

Pressure Plate If the pressure plate shows signs of scoring, excessive wear, heat checking or, if warped more than .005 inch

Fig. 4—Clutch Cover and Pressure Plate Assembly in Fixture 1—Clutch cover 2—Clutch pressure plate (showing driving lug)

3-Fixture (Tool C-585A) 4—Punch marks on pressure plate and cover

34x97 p¡g. 5—Removing or Installing Clutch Release Lever

CLUTCH

3 OF A COLOR

2 OF A COLOR

1 OF OTHER COLOR

52x540

Fig. 7—Pressure Spring Placement

Fig. 6—Testing Clutch Pressure Springs

a new pressure plate should be installed. Testing Pressure Springs

It is advisable to test pressure springs when the clutch is dismantled after considerable service or if there has been a great amount of slippage creating excessive heat, which may have caused the springs to lose their initial load. To test a spring, first determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is 1 ¾ 6 inch. Turn the table of Tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 1¾ 6 inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place spring over stud on table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench tool C-3005 as shown in Figure 6, until ping is heard. Take reading on wrench at this instant. Multiply reading by two. This will give the spring load to the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on table for finer adjustments. (Refer to Specifications and select model of clutch for spring pressure.) Discard springs that do not meet minimum requirement. Cover Plate

Check the cover plate for distortion by laying plate on a smooth surface. If the cover shows signs of distortion, install a new cover. Release Levers

Replace release levers that are badly worn on the tips (this is an indication of a sticking release bearing), worn or damaged threads on eyebolts or adjusting nuts or where binding appears to be present which retards free back and forth movement. Check the struts for wear on the contact edges. Install new parts as required.

Assembling the Clutch To reassemble the clutch, coat the driving lug sides (Figure 4) with a thin coat of lubriplate. No. 220, then, assemble the release levers as follows: Assemble the lever pin and eyebolt to the release lever. Holding the threaded end of eyebolt between the thumb and index finger, allow the end of lever to rest on second finger. Keep end of lever and eyebolt as close together as possible. With the other hand, grasp strut between thumb and first finger, then insert in slot of pressure plate lug. Drop strut slightly until it touches the vertical milled surface of lug. Insert the lower end of eyebolt into hole in pressure plate, which will bring the short end of lever under the hood of lug and near the strut. Now, slide the strut upward in slot and lift over ridge and into groove on short end of lever. Assemble the remaining release levers in the same manner. Continue to assemble, observing the following precautions: (1) Place the pressure springs on the small bosses on the pressure plate and in the same order of sequence as whence removed. (See Figure 7.) It is v e r y important that the springs b e a r r a n g e d in like s e q u e n c e in e a c h group in order to retain original b a l a n c e . (2) Match up the prick punch marks made when disassembling, so that the cover and pressure plate will be assembled with relation to each other. (3) The assembly may then be slowly compressed (as outlined for disassembly), making sure that the eyebolts are guided through the holes in the cover. (4) Screw the adjusting nuts on the protruding eyebolts, until the nuts are flush with the top of the eyebolts. Slowly release pressure by unscrewing the compression nut on the tool. Depress release levers several times to properly seat parts, using Tool C-585A.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL Cover S,upporí Plate Compression Nut

`ç~^ Plate Return Spring :Washer -Adjusting Screw

1 45x83

F¡g. 9—Disassembling Auburn Clutch in Fixture C-585

(8) Check clearance between lugs and cover holes. (9) Remove clutch from fixture and install in car, as described in Paragraph 1 of this Section.

Fig. 8—Adjusting Clutch Release Levers 1-Feeler blades (part of Tool C-585A) 2—Compression plate (part of Tool C-585A) 3-Spacers (part of Tool C-585A) 4—Clutch release lever eye bolt 5—Clutch release lever eye bolt nut 6—Stake here to lock

Adjusting the Release Levers Mount the clutch assembly on the fixture (Tool C-585A) with the release levers over the feeler gauge in the base of the fixture, then proceed as follows: (1) Install the 8 bolts that hold the cover to the fixture and tighten securely. (2) Place the proper spacers on the center screw of the fixture. (Refer to specifications for model and spacer usage.) (3) Install the compression plate on the center screw. Make sure it rests directly against the clutch release levers. (4) Install the self-aligning washer, flatwasher and compression nut. (5) Tighten the compression nut until the compression plate comes into contact with the spacers for setting lever heiyht. (6) Adjust the clutch release levers until the feeler gauges have the same slight d r a g or feel while being pushed in or pulled out. Tighten the nuts to decrease d r a g and loosen to increase d r a g , as shown in Figure 8. (7) Recheck the release lever adjustment to make sure each one is adjusted properly. Now, stake the nuts to hold them in position.

3. SERVICING THE CLUTCH COVER (6-Cyl¡nder Engines) To overhaul the clutch, refer to Figure 2, then proceed as follows: (1) Mark the cover and pressure plate with a prick punch, as shown in Figure 9, so that they may be assembled in their original position to maintain balance. (2) Mount the clutch assembly on compressing fixture Tool C-585A as shown in Figure 9. (3) Install the compression washer over the centerscrew, so that it rests directly on top of the clutch release levers. (4) Install the compression nut and then compress the levers by tightening the compression nut. (5) With the levers under pressure, remove the adjusting screw, washer and plate return spring. Now place a ½ inch steel block (C-585-32), under the outer end of each lever. (Refer to Figure 9.) (6) Back off the compression nut slowly until the release levers rise and contact the steel blocks. Remove the nut and compression washer and lift off cover. (7) Romove the pressure springs by forcing each release lever downward by hand, lift out the steel block and allow the lever to return slowly. Now, lift out the pressure spring. (8) Grind off one end of the lever pin, then drive the pin out of the lever and cover. For cleaning and inspection, refer to Paragraph 2 of this Section. This is a standard procedure for all clutches.

CLUTCH

Assembling the Clutch To assemble the clutch, refer to Figure 2, then proceed as follows: (1) Assemble the release levers to the cover, then install new pins and peen over. (2) Install the pressure springs between the levers and cover. Make sure t h e springs rest o n t h e bosses of t h e cover a n d a r e s e a t e d in t h e e m bossed seats off the l e v e r s . (3) Now, press down each lever in turn by hand, and insert the steel blocks under the outer ends of levers. (4) Install the pressure plate on the fixture and lower the cover over the pressure plate, with the punch marks aligned. (5) Now, place the spacer (refer to Specifications Section) over the center screw of the fixture, then install the compression plate, self-aligning washer, thrust washer and compression nut. (6) Tighten the compression nut and remove steel blocks. Then install the washers and adjusting screws in the pressure plate. (7) Unscrew the compression nut slowly, then install the pressure plate return springs. D o not lubricate any parts off the cover or pressure plate with oil or grease. Use only lubriplate No. 220 applied in a very thin coat.

Adjusting the Release Levers (1) Install the clutch assembly on fixture. Tool C-585A, making certain that the housing clamps line up with holes. (2) Slide the spacer over the center screw of the fixture, then install the compression washer, the selfaligning washer and the compression nut. Now, tighten the compression nut until the levers are completely compressed. (3) Install the clutch housing clamps and tighten securely. (4) Adjust the clutch release levers, as shown in Figure 10, until each of the three feeler gauges have the same slight d r a g or feel, when being pushed in or pulled out. Tighten the release lever screws to decrease the d r a g or loosen them to increase the d r a g . (5) Recheck the adjustment of each lever to make certain the adjustment is correct. (6) Tighten the locknuts, then remove the clutch assembly from the fixture. When removing the clutch assembly, loosen the housing clamps first, and then remove the compression nut. This procedure will avoid imposing unequal strain on the release levers. (7) Install in car as described in Paragraph 1 of this Section.

WASHER SELF ALIGNING WASHER

COMPRESSION NUT COMPRESSION WASHER

HOUSING CLAMP

ADJUSTING FEELER Fig. 10â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Adjusting Clutch Release Levers (Auburn)

4. SERVICING CLUTCH SHAFT PILOT BUSHING To r e m o v e pilot bushing, screw the tapered pilot of Tool C-41 into the bushing, allowing pilot to cut its own threads until a solid grip is obtained. Insert puller screw and turn, forcing bushing out of crankshaft. NOTE: Tool C-3185 may be used if Tool C-41 is not available. Follow manufacturer's instructions for use. To r e p l a c e pilot bushing, slide new bushing over the pilot of Tool DD-286 and drive into place with a soft hammer. This causes bushing to tighten up on pilot. Install cup and puller nut and tighten, removing tool from bushing. This action burnishes the bushing to the exact size and leaves a smooth and lasting finish. NOTE: Tool C-3181 may be used if Tool DD-286 is not available. Follow manufacturer's instructions for use. Lubricate the bushing with about half a teaspoon of short fibre grease. Insert grease in radius at back of bushing (not on clutch shaft).

REMOVING OR INSTALLING THE CLUTCH FORK

Should it become necessary to replace, remove or install the clutch fork, proceed as follows: (1) Unhook the clutch release fork pull-back spring. (2) Disconnect the rear end of the clutch fork rod from the fork by removing retaining spring and flatwasher. Lift out clevis pin, then separate rod from fork. (3) Pry dust cover boot out and away from clutch housing, then slide boot down outer end of fork. This will expose the clutch fork pivot and clutch release bearing. (4) Pivot the clutch fork outer end toward front of engine, at the same time exert sufficient pressure to disengage clutch fork spring clip from pivot ball. (5) Slide clutch fork forward and disengage from throwout bearing spring, then pull out of clutch housing. If replacing clutch fork pivot, it will be neces-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

sary to remove the transmission in order to expose pivot stud retaining screw. Installation (1) Slide release bearing as far forward as it will go. Now, slide clutch fork into housing and engage with springs on throw-out bearing, allowing retaining spring to pass around pivot stud. Before i n s t a l l i n g d u t c h fork, b e s u r e t h e fork fingers a r e l u b r i c a t e d with short fibre g r e a s e a n d the pivot i n d e n t is l u b r i c a t e d with l u b r i p l a t e No. 2 2 0 . (2) Slide dust boot over outer end of clutch fork and down against clutch housing. Insert boot in housing until groove in boot fits around edge of housing opening. (3) Engage rear end of clutch fork rod with fork, align holes, then install clevis pin and flatwasher. Secure with spring retainer. (4) Rehook the release fork pull back spring.

REPLACING CLUTCH TORQUE SHAFT PIVOT BUSHINGS

To install new torque shaft bushings, proceed as follows: (1) Unhook the clutch release fork pull-back spring from bracket and fork. (2) Remove the spring retainer that holds the clutch fork rod to the torque shaft. Disengage rod from shaft. Swing rod out of way. (3) Remove the spring retainer that holds the pedal rod to the torque shaft. Disengage pedal rod from torque shaft lever pin. (4) Remove the bolts that hold the torque shaft bracket to the frame. (5) Remove the retaining spring that holds the pivot, bracket and bushings to the torque shaft. Now, exert sufficient pressure to force bushings out of torque shaft. (6) Now, pull torque shaft away from pivot on clutch housing. This forces bushings out of torque shaft. Remove torque shaft from under car. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect the pivot balls and bushings for signs of scoring or excessive wear. Install new parts as required. To assemble the torque shaft, refer to Figure 11, then proceed as follows: (1) Lubricate the pivot bushings with a suitable chassis grease, then slide over the pivot ball attached to the clutch housing. Slide end of torque shaft over the bushings and down into position. (2) Now, place the two remaining bushings on the pivot ball mounted on the bracket. Slide the free end of the torque shaft over the bushings and down into position. Install the retaining spring. (3) Slide the pivot bracket against the frame side rail and install bolts and lockwashers. Tighten securely. (4) Engage the clutch pedal rod with the torque shift lever pin, then install spring clip.

ADJUSTING NUT PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET

OVER-CENTER SPRING

BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET

ROD

CLUTCH PEDAL DASH PANEL

TORQUE SHAFT

CLUTCH RELEASE FORK ROD CLUTCH HOUSING

BRACKET

SPRING CLIP

RELEASE FORK ADJUSTING NUT CLUTCH FORK PULL BACK SPRING 57x395

Fig. n—Clutch Pedal Assembly and Linkage (5) Slide the clutch fork rod over pin on lower lever of torque shaft, then install spring clip. (6) Slide one end of the clutch release fork pull back spring in the hole in fork shank, and the other end into bracket on housing, (7) After new bushings have been installed, lubricate thoroughly, then check the clutch pedal for free play.

7. ADJUSTING THE OVER-CENTER SPRING AND CLUTCH PEDAL FREE MOVEMENT The position of the over-center spring is controlled by an adjusting nut and threaded eye, shown in Figure 11. The upper end of the "C" link is attached by the threaded eyebolt to the over-center spring. The lower end of the "C" link is attached by a pivot to the clutch pedal. The over-center spring is attached at the top end, to the pedal mounting bracket. To adjust the over-center spring, refer to Figure 11, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove spring clip that holds the clutch pedal rod to the clutch pedal. (2) Back off the over-center spring adjusting nut until free of "C" link. (3) With the clutch pedal depressed to the toeboard» run adjusting nut back up until it just contacts the "C" link. (4) Now, turn the adjusting nut against "C" link 7 full turns for the 10" clutch or 5 full turns for the 9¼" clutch. No more! (5) Reinstall clutch pedal rod and secure with spring clip. This adjustment should give a maximum pedal effort of 30-32 pounds and a minimum pedal return effort (at one inch from full pedal return) of 3-6 pounds.

CLUTCH

Clutch Pedal Adjustment (Refer to Figure 11> Adjust the clutch fork rod "in" or "out" as required to

secure ‰ inch free play at the clutch release fork. This will provide the 1 inch free pedal movement at the pedal pad or a total of 6 inches full pedal travel. The upper end of the clutch pedal pivots in the lower end of the mounting bracket, on needle bearings in the V-8, and on nylon bushings in the Six. These bushings, or bearings, require no periodic lubrication. 8. CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT When performing adjustments or repairs that involve removing the clutch housing, it will be necessary to align the face of the housing parallel with that of the block, when assembling. To correctly align the clutch housing, proceed as follows: (1) Inspect the housing face where it contacts the cylinder block for particles of dirt or burrs; remove burrs with a file, then clean both surfaces thoroughly, then install clutch housing. Tighten clutch housing to block bolts just snug enough so the housing can be shifted if necessary by tapping with a mallet. (2) Install arbor, Tool C-869 to the flywheel attaching studs (Figure 12). NOTE: If Tool C-869 is not available use Tool C-870 with dial indicators C-435 or C-3339. Install indicator so that the point of the indicator contacts bore of housing (Figure 13). The bore of the clutch housing should not vary more than .005 inch. Check the rear face of the housing (Figure 14). The tolerance must be within .003 inch. Rear face misalignment can be corrected by placing shims of proper thickness between the clutch housing and cylinder block. If the bore alignment is necessary, remove the dowel pins and tap the housing until it comes within the specified tolerance. Ream new dowel pin holes with Tool C-860, (Figure 15) and install oversize dowels. Tighten the housing bolts to 30-35 foot-pounds torque. Make sure both face and bore alignments are maintained after housing bolts are tightened. F a i l u r e to a l i g n clutch housing may result in hard shifting of transmission and the possibility of high gear disengagement. 9. STEAM CLEANING PRECAUTIONS The clutch housing, being ventilated, steam vapor condenses and moisture settles on the internal moving parts of clutch mechanism. The facings of the disc will absorb moisture and under the force exerted by the pressure plate, will bond the facings to flywheel and/or, the pressure plate, if the car is allowed to stand for some time before use. If this condition occurs, it will necessitate complete replacement of disc, pressure plate, flywheel and/or, driving plate. Immediately after the cleaning operation, start engine and "slip the clutch" in order to dry off the disc assembly, pressure plate, and/or flywheel.

49x609

F¡g. 12—Method of Attaching Fixture C-870 (Flywheel Type Housing Illustrated)

49x633

F¡g. 13—Checking Clutch Housing Bore

49x632

Fig. 14—Checking Clutch Housing Alignment

49x716 Fig. 15—Reaming Dowel Pin Holes

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

COOLING CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION

Par.

Fan and Generator Belt Adjustment General Information Pressure Cooling System Radiator Core Removal and Installation Servicing the Radiator Servicing the Water Pump Testing the Electric Temperature Gkiuge Circuit Thermostat Water Temperature Gkiuge

Page

5 — 2 4 3 8 7 1 6

40 37 38 40 39 41 41 38 41

Loose hose clamps Defective rubber hose Broken radiator seams Worn water pump Loose core hole plugs Damaged gaskets Cracked cylinder head Cracked cylinder block

• • •

Cracked thermostat housing (water outlet elbow) Leak at heater connections Leak at water temperature indicator bulb (in head) Leak at long exhaust manifold center studs Warped cylinder head Blown cylinder head gaskets

• • • •

Cracked cylinder wall Loose cylinder head bolts Cracked valve port Sand holes or porous condition Restricted radiator core Restricted or corroded distributor tube (6 cylinder) Low coolant level Collapsed radiator hose Water pump impeller loose on shaft Loose adjustment of fan belt

•

Corrosion

Loss of Coolant

Overheating

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Internal Leakage

CONDITIONS

External Leakage

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

COOLING

Scale in cylinder block Obstruction in front of radiator core Incorrect ignition timing Incorrect valve timing Low oil level Tight engine Dragging brakes Overloading vehicle Driving in heavy sand or mud Engines laboring on grades Excessive engine idling Defective radiator pressure cap or pressure leak in system Cavitation resulting from eroded impeller blades Defective thermostat Tight wheel bearings Low tire pressure Angle of grille bars such that they deflect air from radiator core due to accident or assembly Detonation and preignition Fan blades bent or improper fan Impurities in water Lack of rust inhibitor Improper draining and service Air leaks in system Defective or no thermostat Inaccurate temperature gauge

Overcooiing

Corrosion

Loss of Coolant

Overheating

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Internal Leakage

CONDITIONS wþ>

External Leakage

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Cont¡nued)

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The cooling system consists of a centrifugal water pump, a cellular tubular or fin and tube type radiator core, a fan, a pellet type thermostat, a pressure type radiator cap and a permanent by-pass incorporated into the water manifold. The permanent by-pass allows more even distribution of coolant temperature throughout the engine thus eliminating the formation of coolant "hot

spots," before the thermostat opens. The six cylinder engine block is equipped with a water distributor tube with outlet holes so spaced as to direct the coolant against the valve seats and ports. The tube is located between the cylinders and the valve ports near the top of the cylinder block. The tube should be replaced whenever the engine is completely overhauled. If the tube becomes rusted or corroded, over-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

WATER DISTRIBUTOR TUBE

GASKET VALVE PRESSURE FILLER CAP

RADIATOR FILLER OPENING OVERFLOW TUBE

50x100

Fig. 1—Removing Cylinder Block Water Distributor

Tube (Typical Illustration)

Fig. 3—Radiator Pressure Cap

heating of the engine will occur due to failure of the coolant to circulate properly throughout the cylinder block. Replacement of the distribution tube requires removal of the radiator core, fan, water pump and housing assembly. A heavy hooked rod, as shown in Figure 1, will facilitate removal. When installing the distributor tube, make sure that the front end of the tube is flared in a manner similar to the original installation. The closed end of the tube must be inserted first and the coolant openings must be at the top of the tube. If incorrectly installed, coolant will not circulate properly resulting in "hot spots" within the cylinder block.

Suspend the thermostat in a pail of water containing a thermometer. Heat the water. At the moment the thermostat drops off the string, the thermometer should read from 155 to 160 degrees F. (approximately) for the standard thermostat and 180 to 185 degrees F. (approximately) for the air conditioning thermostat; and wide open at 185 degrees F. (approximately) for the standard thermostat and 200 to 202 degrees F. (approximately) for the air conditioning thermostat. The temperature at which the thermostat opens, is very important and should be tested whenever the cooling system is checked. There are no repairs or adjustments to be made on the thermostat. Replace the unit if it fails to operate properly.

1. THERMOSTAT The pellet type thermostats (Figure 2) are actuated by a pellet containing a paste mixture. As the pellet absorbs heat, the paste liquefies and increases in volume. This expansion forces the piston up, which in turn opens the valve against the tension of the springs.

Testing Thermostat To test the thermostat for correct opening, gently force the valve open, then insert a piece of string (preferably thin wire) into the opening and allow the valve to close.

B Fig. 2—Pellet Type Thermostats

57x133

PRESSURE COOLING SYSTEM (STANDARD AND AIR CONDITIONING) The Dodge radiators are equipped with a pressure vent type radiator filler cap, as shown in Figure 3. Under normal operating conditions, pressure is not built up in the system. However, if an increased operating temperature develops due to heavy traffic, extremely hot weather, hill climbing, high-speed driving, etc., the valve at the bottom of cap closes; seating against the gasket. This action pressurizes the system up to approximately 14 pounds at which time the valve and seat rise and allow the build-up of pressure to escape through the overflow tube. CAUTION: When removing the pressure cap first turn the cap counter-clockwise to the stop permitting any built-up pressure to be released through the overflow tube. This will prevent possible personal injury due to spraying out of hot water under pressure. To remove the cap after pressure has been raised, press down and continue to turn cap counter-clockwise until the cap is released. To test the pressure cap, select the short neoprene seal

COOLING

57x146

F¡g. 4—Checking Pressure Cap

and metal adapter from kit. Tool C-3499. Slip seal on the tube at the bottom of the instrument. Then attach either end of the short adapter to the instrument. Dip pressure cap in water and apply cap to end of adapter. Working the plunger, as shown in Figure 4, bring pressure to 14 pounds on the gauge. If pressure cap fails to hold pressure within a range of 12-15 pounds, replace cap with a new tested cap.

3. SERVICING THE RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM Cleaning Only clean, soft water filled to 1 ¼ inch (approximately) below the bottom of the filler neck, should be used in the radiator and the cooling system of the engine. Hard water will form a scale, not only in the radiator core, but in the engine block and head as well. This scale or lime deposit causes hot spots within the engine and will plug the small passages of the radiator core. Dirty water will also close the tubes in the core and restrict coolant flow, and in extreme cases, will collect in the engine and cause overheating and eventual engine failure. A very effective and recommended radiator cleaner is available through the Parts Department. This cleaner chemically loosens, dissolves and removes rust and scale present in most cooling systems, when used as directed in instructions outlined on container. E v e r y time the cooling system is drained and refilled with water, a recommended rust inhibitor (available through the Parts Department) must be added.

Testing To test the pressure cooling system, using kit, Tool C-3499, proceed as follows: (1) Wipe radiator filler neck sealing seat clean. It must be free of dirt and devoid of deep scratches or nicks. (2) For testing purposes only, recommended water level should be ½ inch below neck of radiator. (3) Attach tester to the radiator, as shown in Figure 5, and apply 15 pounds pressure. If pressure drops, check all points for exterior leaks. Even though pressure appears to hold constant, use a flashlight to find small pin holes or seepage leaks. Fifteen pounds pressure

F¡g. 5—Checking Cooling System

to b e a p p l i e d ONLY to c a r s e q u i p p e d with 14 pound pressure caps. (4) If unable to locate any exterior leaks after gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach tester and run engine to operating temperature in order to open thermostat and allow coolant to expand. Re-attach instrument and pump to 7 lbs. pressure while engine is running, jlace motor and if needle on dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak, generally a head gasket. CAUTION — WATCH CLOSELY!!! P r e s s u r e builds u p fast! A n y e x c e s s i v e a m o u n t of p r e s sure built u p b y continuous motor o p e r a t i o n , MUST b e r e l e a s e d to a s a f e p r e s s u r e point. NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, PERMIT IT TO EXCEED 15 LBS. PRESSURE! On V-8 engines detach wires from spark plugs on one bank and operate engine on the opposite bank. If the needle continues to fluctuate it indicates a leak on the bank still in operation. If needle ceases to fluctuate, the leak is in the bank combustion has been released from. (5) If needle on dial does not fluctuate, race engine 4 or 5 times and if an abnormal amount of water emits from exhaust system at the tail pipe, it will indicate a leak which can be a head gasket, cracked engine block or cylinder head near the exhaust ports. (6) If the aforerecommended procedure proves nothing, shut off ignition, check oil dipstick and if water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a serious internal leak in the engine block. There are two distinct ways to further prove a leak in an engine block. First, a rise in the oil level determined by the dipstick markings; second, removal of the crankcase plug to drain the oil permitting a sample to be taken for analysis. (7) Note: Small pin hole leaks and seepage losses may be located quicker by adding more pressure, but discretion must be used.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(8) Be sure radiator overflow tube is unobstructed and free of kinks. Run wire through tube if necessary. Coo/ing System Protectors CAUTION: Cars equipped with air conditioning must use a glycol-base permanent type anti-ffreeze in the cooling system throughout the entire year. MAKE CERTAIN THAT COOLING SYSTEM IS SAFEGUARDED FOR A MINIMUM PROTECTION OF +20 DEGREES IN SUMMER. This precaution is necessary inasmuch as the air conditioner evaporator lies in close proximity to the heater core, which may cause coolant in heater core to freeze, if system is not protected. Anti-freeze is recommended for use in the cooling system when the temperature is likely to be below 32 degrees F. Other anti-freeze solutions that are suitable are denatured alcohol, methanol (synthetic wood alcohol) and ethylene glycol, when suitable inhibitors are added. Mixing of various brands of anti-freeze is not recommended because of the possibility of separation of inhibitors and also the difficulty in determining the freeze point. Alcohol anti-freeze solutions are subject to evaporation and when these liquids are used the solution should be tested at regular intervals during the cold mbnths. Alcohol base liquids, if spilled on the vehicle should be washed off immediately with a generous amount of water to prevent damage to the finish. When installing anti-freeze it is recommended that the entire cooling system be flushed before installing the anti-freeze. If there are leaks in the system, they should be stopped. Coolant should be filled to 1 Âź inches below the bottom of the filler neck to allow for expansion. Anti-freeze solutions containing sodium chloride (common salt), calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, or any inorganic salt should never be used as an anti-freeze. Water soluble organic products such as sugar, honey, or glucose or any organic crystalline compounds are not recommended. Mineral oils such as kerosene or engine oil may damage rubber parts and therefore prove harmful. The freezing point of an anti-freeze solution may be determined by the use of a hydrometer made for this purpose. When testing the solution, it should be tested at the temperature for which the hydrometer is calibrated and the correct hydrometer for the solution should be used. 4.

RADIATOR CORE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Removal Should it become necessary to remove the radiator core

for repair or overhaul, proceed as follows: (1) Drain the cooling system by opening the draincocks. (2) Release the radiator inlet and outlet hose clamps, using pliers, Tool C-3250, and disconnect the radiator hoses. (3) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the radiator core to the radiator support, then lift radiator straight up and out of engine compartment. (Be careful not to allow core to be damaged against fan or support.)

NOTE: On cars equipped with air conditioning it is necessary to remove the fan shroud also.

Installation (1) Slide the radiator down into position behind the radiator support. Hold the radiator and at the same time align the bolt holes in the core mounting brackets with the holes in the support. Install the bolts and lockwashers and tighten securely. Install fan shroud (if so equipped). (2) Connect the radiator inlet and outlet hoses, then secure clamps securely using pliers. Tool C-3250. (3) Close all draincocks and then refill the cooling system with clean fresh water. Check for leaks and correct if necessary. Add at least one pint of recommended radiator rust resistor to the cooling system to prevent rust formation in the system.

5. FAN AND GENERATOR BELT ADJUSTMENT A fan belt that is adjusted too tight, will cause rapid wear of the generator and the water pump bearings. A loose fan belt will slip and wear excessively, causing overheating and unsteady generator output. Adjust belt as follows: (1) F a n Drive Belt: The idler pulley should be adjusted to obtain a maximum of Âź inch deflection when applying ten pounds pull with a spring scale at the middle of the widest belt span. (2) Generator Drive Belt: The generator adjusting strap should be loosened as should the generator to generator bracket mounting bolts; then, with Tool C-3379 hooked over the generator and a torque wrench attached to the Tool, apply a torque of 45 ft. lbs. for a new belt, and 27 ft. lbs. for an old belt, to pull generator outward. While holding generator outward at the required torque, securely tighten the generator mounting bolts and adjusting strap.

CAUTION: Failure to loosen generator to generator mounting bracket bolts when making this adjustment will cause a false torque reading and result in a generator drive belt that is too loose. If the fan belt is to be replaced, push the generator in toward the block to provide enough slack so that the belt may be slipped over the pulleys for removal.

COOLING 6.

WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE (FIGURE 6)

The electric temperature gauge consists of two units, the dash unit and the engine unit. The gauge is connected to the source of voltage through the ignition switch.

VARIABLE RESISTANCE VARIABLE FIELD

Dash Unit The dash unit has two magnetic poles. One of the windings is connected to the ignition switch and to a ground. This electro-magnet exerts a steady pull to hold the gauge pointer to the left or "cold" position, whenever the ignition is turned on. The other winding in the dash unit connects to a ground through the engine unit. This electro-magnet exerts a steady magnetic pull on the gauge pointer toward the right or "hot" side of the gauge. The strength of this electro-magnet is dependent upon the current allowed to pass through the engine unit resistor.

Engine Unit The engine unit is equipped with a flat disc that changes resistance as its temperature varies. The resistance of this disc is greatest when the temperature is cold and its resistance decreases as the temperature increases. The decrease in resistance (with an increase in temperature) allows more current to flow through the electro-magnet that is connected to the engine unit. The resulting increase in magnetic pull causes the gauge pointer to move to the right or "hot" side.

7. TESTING THE ELECTRO TEMPERATURE GAUGE CIRCUIT Two tests must be performed in order to test the electrictemperature gauge circuit to determine if it is in satisfactory condition. Refer to Figure 6 and perform the test as follows: Test 7 Disconnect the wire at engine unit and turn on the ignition. The gauge hand should stay against the left side stop pin.

Test 2 Ground the wire disconnected from the engine unit. Turn on the ignition switch. The gauge hand should swing across the dial to the right side stop pin.

Test Results and Corrective Measures If the gauge hand does not stay on the left hand stop pin in Test 1, the wire is grounded between the dash unit and the engine unit, or the dash unit is defective. Test further by disconnecting the wire at the dash unit "GA" terminal and turn on the ignition switch. If the gauge hand now stays on the left hand stop pin, replace wire. But, if the gauge hand still moves, replace the dash unit. If the gauge hand does not swing across the dial in

ENGINE UNIT

53x527A

Fig. 6â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Electric Temperature Gauge Circuit

Test 2, there is an open circuit in the wire between the dash unit and the engine unit, or the dash unit is defective, or no power is reaching the dash unit. Test further by grounding the "GA" terminal on the dash unit and turn on the ignition switch. If the gauge hand now moves, replace the wire. If the gauge hand still does not move, connect a 12-volt test lamp from the dash unit. But, if the test lamp does not light, test the wire between the ignition switch and the dash unit by connecting a test lamp to the "Accessory" terminal at the ignition switch and to a ground. When this is done, the test lamp should light. If the gauge hand operates correctly in Test 1 and Test 2, but the gauge does not indicate temperature changes correctly, the engine unit is defective, or the dash unit is not calibrated properly. Use an engine unit that is in good condition. Then, if the gauge is still not accurate, replace the dash unit. If the gauge hand is at the right hand stop pin (maximum), at all times. Test 1 and Test 2 indicate that the wiring and the dash unit are in good condition. However, the engine unit is defective and a new engine unit must be installed. If the gauge hand will not move, the dash unit is damaged or incorrectly installed. Install unit correctly, or replace as necessary.

8. SERVICING THE WATER PUMP (6-8 CYLINDER ENGINES) Removal From Car (1) Drain cooling system and then remove fan shroud (air conditioning equipped cars). Loosen fan drive belt by loosening generator mounting bracket and swinging generator in towards water pump (on cars equipped with air conditioning, loosen idler pulley). (2) Remove fan, spacer and pulley. (3) Remove the five water pump to housing retaining bolts (four bolts on 6-cylinder engines) and washer and remove water pump from car. Discard gasket.

Disassembly (Refer to Figures 7 or S) (1) Remove fan hub from shaft using puller, Tool C-412, as shown in Figure 9.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

42 PLUG—^Q GASKET SEAL WASHER (2) —BOLT (2) SEAL WASHER (1) BOLT (1) SEAL

GASKET SEAL WASHER (4)

HOUSING

IMPELLER AND

BUSHING ASSEMBLY SEAL RETAINING^

T ^ I 2 % - · ~ - B O L T <4> ¶ÈB*ff„^-~THROWER

WASHER BODY SHAFT AND BEARING ASSEMBLY 57x94

57x136

HUB

Fig. 7-S¡x Cylinder Water Pump (Exploded View)

¾r;

BOLT (2) LOCKWASHER (2) GASKET (1) GASKET (2)

<™

CZ3

CONNECTOR

Fig. 10—Breaking Plastic Impeller (Typical View)

(2) Support pump body on hub end and remove plastic impeller by breaking away from metal insert (Figure 10).

,THERMOSTAT HOUSING BOLT (1) RETAINER WASHER SHAFT AND BEARING ASSEMBLY

(3) Remove seal from shaft by sliding it over impeller insert. (4) Remove impeller metal insert using puller. Tool C-3476, as shown in Figure 11. If s e a l only is to b e r e p l a c e d install n e w s e a l assembly by referring to steps 4 , 5 a n d 6 under "Assembly." (5) Support body on front face (fan hub end) and apply pressure to rear end of shaft to press out shaft and bearing asembly through front of pump. If a n attempt is made to remove shaft in opposite direction, damage to water pump body will result.

Fig. 8-E¡ght Cylinder Water Pump (Exploded View)

Assembly Before assembling, clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. To assemble the water pump, again refer to Figures 7 or 8 and proceed as follows: B e a r i n g assemblies removed from water pumps, for any reason should not be reused as damage to bearings will usually result during removal.

PULLER (TOOL)

57x135

Fig. 9-Removing Fan Hub From Shaft (Typical View)

(1) Place pump body in arbor press with pump body supported as close to center bore of pump as possible. Do not support body on attaching face. Press shaft and bearing assembly into body (Figure 12), using Tool C-3468. The .090 inch dimension, shown in Figure 13, must be maintained when installing new shaft and bearing assembly. This applies to both 6 and 8 cylinder water pumps. The undercut of the tool does not control the

COOLING

PRESS

TOOL

SLEEVE (TOOL) SHAFT A N D BEARING IMPELLER INSERT

SHAFT A N D BEARING ASSEMBLY

56x1 43

Fig. 11—Removing Metal Insert (Typical View)

BODY

PIPE

57x137

Fig. 12—Installing Shaft and Bearing Assembly (Typical View)

. 0 9 0 inch dimension. Press on the outer r a c e o n l y — i f using other than Tool C-3468. Pressi n g on t h e shaft will brinell t h e b e a r i n g s , m a k i n g t h e p u m p noisy. (2) Install Tool C-551 over the pump shaft and reface the pump seal seat. Turn the tool in an even clockwise direction, until a smooth full cut has been taken. Continue to turn tool clockwise as it is being removed, to avoid leaving a ridge. (3) Remove the seat refacing tool and install an abrasive disc SP-1527 over end of tool and down against the cutters. Now, insert tool and disc over shaft and proceed to polish the seat face. Exert sufficient pressure against tool to obtain a highly polished seat. Do not u s e a motor to obtain finished seat, turn t h e tool by h a n d a n d i n a clockwise direction.

IMPELLER MUST BE FLUSH WITH END OF SHAFT

.330

(4) Install a new seal assembly into impeller with ears of retaining washer engaged in slots of impeller. (5) Support pump body on shaft in arbor press and press impeller on shaft using a sleeve that will apply pressure on the metal impeller insert only. Press impeller until it is flush with end of shaft. When installing i m p e l l e r , support p u m p body so that p r e s s u r e is a p p l i e d to t h e shaft a n d not t h e p u m p body. A p p l y i n g p r e s s u r e to p u m p body will result in damaged bearings. (6) Install fan hub while supporting pump body on impeller end of shaft. This will apply pressure to end of shaft and not to pump body. On six-cylinder engines, install hub flush with end of shaft. On eight-cylinder engines, install hub to dimension shown in Figure 13.

Impeller to housing clearance is automati-

57x143

Fig. 13-Water Pump Clearances (8-CyUnder Water Pump Shown)

cally established when bearing and hub are pressed to dimensions given herein. Installation (1) Use a new gasket and install water pump. Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds torque. (2) Install pulley, spacer, fan and shroud (when so equipped). Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Check belt tension as outlined in Paragraph 5.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONTENTS Par.

Page 68 64 79 59 72 49 53 73 87 84 44

— 1 3 2

46 46 49 48

BATTERY CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR, ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER GENERATOR HORNS IGNITION SYSTEM (6 Cylinder) IGNITION SYSTEM (8 Cylinder) LIGHTING SYSTEM POWER SEATS POWER WINDOWS STARTING MOTOR . . . ; RADIO AND HEATER

STARTING MOTOR CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION General Information Testing Starting Motor Testing Starting Motor Circuit The Folo-Thru Drive

Corrosion at battery posts Loose battery cables Dead battery cell or cells Defective starter or solenoid switch Defective starting motor Weak battery Defective transmission neutral starting switch (when so equipped) Poor connection at transmission neutral starting switch (when so equipped) Loose connections Cylinder or cylinders full of coolant Engine seized Starting motor shorted Worn starting motor brushes Broken drive spring Broken teeth on flywheel ring gear Grease or dirt on screw shaft Broken or chipped teeth on flywheel ring gear Loose starter motor mounting bolts

Starter Locks

Starter Turns But Does Not Engage

POSSIBLE CAUSES I

Starter Fails and Lights Dim

CONDITIONS H ^ >

Starter Fails to Operate

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

•

í í

•

• >

î i

• • • • •

ELECTRICAL-STARTING MOTOR

i > Â¯g

Q. X

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The starting motor circuit includes the starting motor, battery, solenoid and on automatic transmission equipped cars, a neutral safety switch. TorqueFlite equipped cars also include a vacuum safety switch and a motor starting switch actuated by the N—neutral push button. The starting motor, as shown in Figure 1 consists of the drive mechanism, frame, armature, brushes and fields. The starting motors used on both the 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder engines are of the 12 volt extruded frame type, with a Folo-Thru Drive. The starting motors are operated by the ignition switch key, turned in the extreme right position or by depressing the N (neutral) push button to full limit of travel (TorqueFlite transmission). This action energizes the starting motor solenoid. When the solenoid is energized, the starting motor armature spins, feeding the pinion rearwards on a threaded shaft until it meshes with the flywheel ring gear. The sudden shock of meshing, is absorbed by a drive spring. After the engine starts, the flywheel ring gear turns the pinion faster than the armature, and, at a pre-determined speed, the pinion is released and is forced along the threaded shaft to its normal position. (See Figure 6.) The starting motor brushes cannot be inspected without disassembling the unit and no service or lubrication should be required between overhaul periods. Automatic transmission equipped cars have a neutral safety switch installed on the transmission. This switch is placed in the starting motor circuit to prevent starting motor from starting the engine unless the neutral transmission control push button is pushed in. TorqueFlite equipped cars also employ a vacuum switch provided in the starting circuit to prevent operation of the starter while the engine is running. 1. TESTING THE STARTING MOTOR The starting motor should first be checked to see that the free running voltage and current are within the specifications. (See starting motor specifications at rear of manual.) Although the starting motor cannot be checked in the vehicle, a check can be made for excessive resistance in the starting motor circuit. Using a voltmeter, check for resistance between the positive battery post and the solenoid. Between the battery negative post and the starting motor housing, and between the solenoid battery terminal and the solenoid starting motor terminal. This check should be made with the starting motor operating and the primary lead to the distributor grounded (to prevent engine from starting). If a voltage drop is noticed in any one of the above checks exceed-

INSULATED BRUSHES

56x500 Fig. 2—Testing for Open Circuit

ing 0.2 volt, excessive resistance is indicated and must be corrected in order to obtain maximum efficiency. To Test for Free Running—Remove starting motor to test bench (if available) and connect the starter to a fully charged 12-volt battery, with a resistor in parallel. Adjust the resistor to 10.3 volts across the battery, running the motor (if new brushes were installed) for approximately two minutes to allow the brushes to seat. The ammeter should show draw from 60 to 75 amps while the starter is running free. If the amperage is too high, check the bushing alignment and end play to make sure there is no binding or interference. If a test bench is not available, connect the starter to a 12-volt battery. If the armature revolves smoothly, at a

F¡g. 3—Testing for Ground

ELECTRICAL-STARTING MOTOR

56x502 Fig.

56x503

-Testing Armature for Short

Fig. 5—Testing Armature for Ground

satisfactory speed, it may be considered satisfactory. Testing for Open Circuit in Field Coils—Place the starter frame and field coil assembly on test bench. Using test prods, test between the insulated brushes and from each insulated brush to the starting motor terminal, as shown in Figure 2. If the test light does not burn, the coils are open and must be replaced.

smooth surface. Use 00 sandpaper to finish the commutator smoothly. Do not undercut the mica. Undercutting allows dirt to collect in the grooves. Testing Armature for Short — Place armature assembly on the growler on test bench. Turn armature slowly while holding a hacksaw blade or other thin strip of steel over the core of armature. Vibration of the blade will indicate a shorted coil and will necessitate replacement. (See Figure 4.)

Testing Field Coils for Ground — Place the starter frame and field coil assembly on test bench. Using test prods, test between the insulated terminal and the frame, as shown in Figure 3. If the test light burns, the coils are grounded and must be replaced. Check the commutator and if necessary, turn down in a lathe. Remove only sufficient material to obtain a

Testing Armature for Ground — Place the armature in a growler and connect one test lead to the armature shaft. Touch the other test lead to the commutator bars. If the test light burns, the armature is grounded and must be replaced. (See Figure 5.) Do not Anti-Drift Spring Cap Anti-Drift Spring

Anchor Plate

Anti-Drift Detent Control Nut Stopnut Pinion

Barrel Clutch Spring

Screwshaft Anchor Plate

Drive Head

Control Nut Thrust Washer Detent Spring

Detent

Detent Cap Fig. 6—Folo-Thru Drive

SZX3Z4

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

touch the brush surface of the commutator bars, to avoid damage from arcing.

ARMATURE AND DRIVE HOUSING

DRIVE HOUSING SCREWS (2) FRAME

56x504

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Armature

DRIVE

KEY HOUSING

2. THE FOLO-THRU DRIVE The Folo-Thru type drive provides an efficient and economical form of automatic starting. The Folo-Thru Drive is designed to overcome premature demeshing of the drive pinion from the flywheel ring gear, until a predetermined engine speed is reached. CAUTION: Do not disassemble the Folo-Thru Drive under any condition. There are two spring loaded pins in the control nut, as shown in Figure 6. These springs have different tensions and must be assembled in their respective locations. Otherwise, the Drive cannot operate properly. Use a complete new Drive unit for service replacement. Cleaning and Relubricat¡ng To clean and relubricate the Folo-Thru Drive, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the starting motor from the engine. (2) Remove the two through bolts that hold the starting motor frame, drive housing and end head together. (3) Slide the armature and drive housing out of frame. (See Figure 7.) (4) Remove the two screws that hold the Drive and the armature in the drive housing. Now, slide the drive housing off end of armature shaft, thus exposing the Drive. (See Figure 8.) CAUTION: Do not d i p or

wash the entire drive in any cleaning solution, because it will remove the lubricant originally applied under the triple threaded screwshaft. Furthermore, do not remove the drive from the armature shaft.

SET SCREW

PLATE'

56x568

Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Drive Housing •ARMATURE SET SCREW HOLE

ET SCREW

DRIVfc SPRING' FOLO-THRU DRIVE

56x505

Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Drive

Should it become necessary to remove the Folo-Thru Drive from the armature shaft, refer to Figure 9, then proceed as follows: (1) Using a suitable tool, pry back the Folo-Thru Drive spring to expose the attaching set screw. (2) Back set screw out far enough to clear armature shaft. Slide the Folo-Thru Drive off end of shaft. When reinstalling Drive, tighten set screw securely. The pinion and barrel assembly is usually in the demeshed position, if such is the case, do not move it forward until after that portion of the armature shaft ahead of the pinion has been cleaned. If the pinion is accidentally rotated to the outer end of the screwshaft, it will lock in that position. Do not attempt to force

it in the reverse direction by hand. Remove excessive oil, grease or foreign material from the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth. Dampen the cloth with clean kerosene, if necessary. A light film of SAE 10W oil may then be applied to the shaft. Now, rotate the pinion and barrel assembly to the fully extended position, thereby locking it in place. As previously instructed, make no attempt to force it in the

ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM (6 CYL.)

opposite direction. Again, using the cloth dampened with kerosene, wipe the triple threads. Do not u s e gasoline or any commercial cleaner or solvent. If the dirt is thick and gummy, apply kerosene with a small brush. Tilt the starting motor so that a small amount oí the kerosene will run under the control nut. Now, relu¯ bricate with a thin film of SAE 10W oil. (Use SAE 5W in extremely cold weather.) Reassemble the starting motor with the drive in the extended position. Slide the starting motor in position and carefully mesh the drive pinion with the flywheel ring gear, by hand before tightening the starting motor mounting bolts. (It might be necessary to rotate the pinion slightly to index it with the ring gear.) When the engine starts, the drive pinion will automatically demesh from the ring gear and the pinion and barrel assembly will return to the normal demeshed position on the screwshaft. 3. TESTING STARTING MOTOR CIRCUIT If the starting motor fails to operate when the ignition key is turned to the extreme right (standard and PowerFlite tranmissions) or the N (neutral) push button is fully depressed (Torque-Flite transmission) check the ignition switch, solenoid switch, neutral switch (automatic transmissions), battery terminals and starter as follows:

Examine the battery terminals for corrosion and looseness. Clean and tighten, if necessary. If the solenoid switch fails to "click" when the ignition key is turned, connect a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the small terminal next to the large supply terminal on the solenoid. If this causes the solenoid to "click," check for loose connections at the small terminal on the solenoid switch, ignition switch, or the fuel gauge and ammeter. If the connections are clean and tight, then replace the ignition switch. Should the solenoid switch fail to "click" when energized with the jumper wire, replace the solenoid. All automatic transmission equipped cars have a neutral switch installed on the transmissions. This switch is connected in the starting motor circuit and prevents using the starter to start the engine unless the transmission push button is in the neutral position. On TorqueFlite equipped cars, a vacuum switch is also provided, in the starter circuit, as a safety feature to prevent operation of the starter while the engine is running. When checking the starting motor circuit, if the engine will not start with the neutral shift control button pushed in, check the neutral switch for operation by grounding the switch terminal. If the engine starts, after this test, install a new neutral switch.

IGNITION SYSTEM CONTENTS 6 CYLINDER SERVICE INFORMATION

Checking Mechanical Advance Mechanism Checking Vacuum Advance Mechanism General Information Ignition Timing (Basic) Servicing Distributor Shaft Bushings Testing Breaker Arm Spring Tension

1 2

Page 50 51 50 52

51 52

3 4

Dirt or oil on points Improperly adjusted points Defective condenser Incorrect mounting of condenser

• • • •

Ignition Coil Failure

Fouled or Burned Plugs

POSSIBLE CAUSES 1

Condenser Failure

CONDITIONS ^ ¯

Burned or Pitted Points

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Worn bushings on distributor shaft Regulator setting too high Extremely high voltage Ignition left on with engine stopped Excessive heat Moisture Fuel Deposits Incorrect spark plugs Spark plugs loose in head Excessively rich fuel mixtures Short trips in cold weather Preignition or detonation Primary ignition leads on coil reversed Shorted or broken insulator Excessively lean fuel mixture Incorrect valve timing Incorrect ignition timing Open circuit at soldered connection on primary studs Insulation breakdown

• • • •

Ignition Coil Failure

Fouled or Burned Plugs

POSSIBLE CAUSES 1

Condenser Failure

CONDITIONS m^>

Burned or Pitted Points

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Con†inued)

• • •

• • > í

• •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The 12-volt ignition distributor is mounted on the left side of the cylinder block and is driven by a shaft which engages the oil pump shaft. A set of breaker points located in the distributor, times the ignition by making and breaking the primary circuit between the battery and the ignition coil. The rotor in the distributor cap distributes the secondary current, built up by the ignition coil, to the spark plugs as the pistons reach the top of each compression stroke. Two devices built into the distributor, advance or retard the spark according to the requirements of the engine. One of these is the governor, which is operated by centrifugal weights and controls spark timing according to engine speed. The other is a vacuum chamber, operated by the vacuum created by engine speed. Under normal load, sufficient vacuum is created to move the breaker point plate, causing the spark to occur at an

earlier time for more economical and efficient engine operation. The distributor should be tested and recalibrated at approximately every 10,000 miles in order to insure efficient engine operation. Before attempting to calibrate the distributor, check the drive shaft bushings. If the play in the shaft is more than .008 inch, replace bushings as outlined in this Section. 1.

CHECKING MECHANICAL ADVANCE MECHANISM To check mechanical advance mechanism, place distributor on tester and connect the leads to the primary connection on the distributor. Now, connect the vacuum control tube to the vacuum chamber on the distributor. Start the tester and check the advance curve number of RPM'S against the degree of advance. Compare with

ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM (6 CYL.)

Specifications. Ií the degree oí advance is more than the Specifications call for, at the same RPM, it is an indication that the governor weight spring is too weak, making the advance too rapid. Ií the degree of advance is less than the Specifications call for, at the same RPM, the spring tension is too stiff, making the advance too slow. In most cases, the tension may be increased or decreased by bending the bracket on the weight plate to which the springs are attached, in order to make the springs conform to Specifications. It is advisable to replace the old springs with new ones, only after failure to make the original spring come within calibration. CHECKING VACUUM ADVANCE MECHANISM The vacuum advance chamber on the distributor compensates for load conditions of an engine. Upon sudden acceleration, or wide open throttle operation, the manifold vacuum drops, causing the spring in the chamber to retard the ignition timing. As the engine load or throttle opening decreases, the vacuum increases and overcomes the pressure spring and advances the ignition timing. A weak or broken spring in the chamber will not retard the timing properly and detonation will result. Before testing, be sure the diaphragm in the vacuum chamber will hold vacuum. Connect the vacuum line, using care not to distort the vacuum housing. Turn on the vacuum pump to give a reading of 10 to 20 inches of vacuum, then shut off pump. If the gauge reading falls, it indicates leakage in the vacuum chamber, pump, gauge or connections and should be located and corrected before check is made. To check vacuum advance mechanism, slow the tester down to about 800 RPM where the gauge will show a steady reading. Check the Vacuum Advance Curve Specifications for the inches of vacuum at which advance starts. Without changing distributor speed, turn the control knob on tester to let in the amount of vacuum required for full specified advance. If the advance does not fall within the specifications, remove the retaining nut and take out or add washers to make the necessary adjustment. Check them for thickness and then substitute a thinner washer, if the advance requires more than the vacuum which is specified. If too much advance is obtained, substitute a thicker washer. When the right combination of washers are found to permit full advance to start, check the amount of vacuum to produce 1 degree of advance. Usually, if the advance is correct at full position at the proper vacuum, it will be right throughout its entire range. In some cases, it may be necessary to change the

DIAL INDICATOR HOLDING JIG

39X37 Fig. 1—Measuring Drive Shaft Bushing Wear

spring and then readjust its tension by means of various combinations of washers. 3.

SERVICING DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT BUSHINGS To service distributor drive shaft bushings, remove the breaker plate assembly and cam and stop plate, then check the bushing wear as follows: Attach a dial indicator to the distributor base and adjust the plunger of the indicator against the top of the drive shaft. Move the shaft "to and from" the indicator with just enough force to indicate the clearance, as shown in Figure 1. (Too much pressure will cause the shaft to spring and show a false reading.) If the clearance is more than .008 inch (total reading), replace the bushings. Remove the drive shaft bushings by driving out the rivet on the drive shaft collar at the lower end of the distributor base, then push the shaft up through the collar and base. Take caro not to distort the govGOVERNOR WEIGHTS

LUBRICANT CHAMBER LUBRICANT

3*2X38 Fig. 2—Lubricating Governor Weight

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ernor springs if the weights are removed. Press the worn bushings from the distributor base. Before installing new bushings, be sure they are soaked in light engine oil for approximately fifteen minutes. Install the drive shaft bushings, pressing the upper bushing into the distributor base from the top; line up the oil hole with the oiler in the base. Now press the lower bushing into place from the bottom and ream both bushings to shaft size. Each governor weight contains a lubricant chamber about midway of the pivot hole. Be sure the chambers are filled with lubricant before the weights are assembled. (See Figure 2.)

17 TO 20-OZ. SPRING TENSION AS POINTS SEPARATE ‰— SPRING SCALE

BREAKER ARM AND SPRING

32X40

4. TESTING BREAKER ARM SPRING TENSION Hook a spring scale on the arm at the point end and pull at a right angle to the point surfaces, as shown in Figure 3. Take a reading as the points start to separate. The spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces; if not, loosen the screw which holds the end of the point spring and slide the end of spring in or out as necessary. Retighten screw and recheck tension.

5. BASIC IGNITION TIMING To set or adjust the ignition timing to the specified firing position, in relation to piston position, remove timing hole plug and install indicator Tool C-435 over number six piston, as shown in Figure 4. With zero reading set at top dead center, rotate engine until dial indicator shows that the piston is approaching the top dead center position. At this point the distributor rotor should be pointing to the number one cylinder firing position. Connect test light from Kit C-435, between distributor primary lead and "battery" negative terminal. Loosen distributor clamp bolt and back off distributor by turning it clockwise until light is lit. Turn distributor slowly counter-clockwise (against rotor travel) until the instant the light goes out. Tighten the clamp bolt. Minor changes in ignition timing may be obtained by loosening the distributor arm lock screw and moving arm slightly in the proper direction. If indicator Tool C-435 is not available place a chalk mark on the vibration damper at the 2 degrees BTDC mark. Attach timing light Tool C-693. Start the engine and allow to idle. The timing light flash should occur when the chalk mark is opposite the pointer on the gear case cover. If not, loosen the distributor clamp bolt and move the distributor either clockwise or counter-clock-

Fig. 3—Testing Breaker Arm Spring Tension

TIMING INDICATOR

TEST LIGHT

INDICATOR ROD PISTON 32x161 Fig. 4—Timing Indicator Installed

wise until the proper setting is obtained, then tighen the clamp bolt. As the engine speed is increased, the timing light should indicate a gradual spark advance. To complete timing operation the car should be road tested. When the engine is properly timed there should be a slight audible ping from 15 to 30 miles per hour when the car is accelerated with wide open throttle in high gear. It should be understood that 2 degrees BTDC is a basic setting and this may vary 4 degrees plus or minus depending on the engine, fuel used and altitude.

ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM (8 CYL.)

IGNITION SYSTEM 8 CYLINDER CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N Adjusting Ignition Timing Checking Distributor Governor Checking the Vacuum Advance Distributor Basic Timing Distributor Lubrication Distributor Point Adjustment General Information Ignition Coil Principles of Operation Servicing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushings Servicing the Distributor Spark Plugs Testing Breaker Arm Spring Tension

Pat.

Page

3 7 8 10 9 2 — 11 1 5 4 12 6

54 57 58 58 58 53 53 59 53 55 55 59 57

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The ignition distributor is driven by an intermediate shaft which engages the camshaft. One set of breaker points (two sets in D-500 models) located in the base of the distributor, control the opening and closing of the primary circuit between the battery and the ignition coil. A rotor in the distributor cap distributes the high tension current, built up by the ignition coil to the spark plugs, as the pistons reach the timed position in their compression stro e. Two devices are built into the distributor to provide _ * automatic advance of ignition timing according to engme speed and load. One of these is a centrifugal governor in the distributor body which regulates the spark üming according to speed. The other consists of a vacuum operated unit which is attached to the side of the , . . , , , - , ! r i distributor body. The vacuum for operating this unit is obtained through a drilled passage above the throttle valve in the carburetor. The vacuum unit regulates the spark timing according to load. 1 PRINCIPLES OF OPPDATIOM I. fKin^lfLtd üh UffcKAI IUN Spark Advance When engine is idling with throttle closed, there is no vacuum present at the vacuum unit and the spark occurs at the timed position. With wide open throttle operation such as an acceleration, the vacuum is insufficient to operate the vacuum unit, but the spark is advanced to correct position by means of the centrifugal governor. Under normal road load or part throttle operation, the spark is advanced by the governor in proportion to speed. In addition, sufficient vacuum is created at the

vacuum control unit to move the diaphragm and comP r e s s t h e s P r i n a i n t h e u n i t · T h e a r m o f t h e vacuum unit is connected to the breaker point plate which rotates, causing additional spark advance for efficient fuel econom Y DISTRIBUTOR POINT ADJUSTMENT 2 p . ¿ ¿ ' ‰ £ £ * Q r e t i m e d tø ^ Q n d Q p e n Qt ^ exQCt i n s t a n t n e œ s s a r y f o r e f f i c i e n t e n g i n e o p e r a tion, adjustment of points is an important factor in correct distributor .. operation, N e w CQn b e a d d w¡th Q fee,er g a u g e H ^ haye u s e d b u †Q r e ^ d e a n a n dm a k e flat ^ _ ¤ ^ i n d i c a t ¢ ) r To¢)1 ^ ^ c a n con(act each ^ ^ ^ a fae u s e d . If ints a r e bacUv itted, t h e y , ,,, , , should be replaced. Q ) p e e l e r G a u g e o p V M I n d i c a t o r MethodRota†e ^ distributor shaft unül m b b i b l o c k of points ^ on of c Q m e 1} Q n d w i t h s c r e w d r i v e r blade ingerted ^ ^ point a d j u s ü n g screws# close o r open points to a clearance of .015 to .018 inch by turning screwdriver blade against stationary point plate. Check clearance with a clean feeler gauge or dial indicator, as shown in Figure 1. (2) Checking Dwell Angle—Adjust the points to show 29 to 32 degrees of closure (.036-.039 D-500 models) on dwell meter. The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that the stationary point can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set the points accurately. After setting points to correct clearance, screw.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

RUBBING BLOCKS

INDICATOR BREAKER POINTS

CAM

54x568

¢5f

F¡g. 1—Adjusting Point Gap (Typical)

Checking for Condition of Distributor

(b) Connect wire with black insulator to negative battery terminal. (c) Connect wire with red insulator to positive battery terminal. (4) Start the engine and allow to idle. CAUTION: For a c c u r a t e r e a d i n g , m a k e s u r e that c a r buretor is not set a t t h e fast w a r m - u p , i d l e s p e e d . Wait until it is a t slow i d l e after w a r m up. (5) The timing light flash should occur when the chalk mark on vibration damper is opposite the pointer on the engine block. If not, loosen the distributor clamp bolt and move the distributor either clockwise or counterclockwise until the specified setting is obtained; then, tighten the clamp bolt. As the engine speed is increased, the timing light should indicate a gradual spark advance.

Set to Specified Firing Position (Engine Not Running)

It is advisable first to set point gap to specified clearance with feeler gauge or dial indicator as outlined above; then, find degrees of dwell on dwell meter and check dwell reading against point gap. If dwell angle is 29 to 32 degrees (.036-.039 D-500 models) (point gap .015 to .018 inchX the distributor is in good condtion. However if the dwell angle is not within specifications, or if the dwell meter needle is erratic, the distributor should be carefully checked for the following conditions: (1) Worn rubbing block. (2) Rubbing block bent or worn over to form a sort of shoe at the end. (Generally where non-standard parts are used.) (3) Rubbing block not square with cam. (4) Badly worn cam. (5) Drive shaft bushing wear.

If timing light is not available, a fairly accurate adjustment can be made as follows: (1) Turn engine over in operation direction until specified reading in degrees of crankshaft rotation on vibration damper appears at pointer. (2) Connect test light in series between distributor primary lead and negative battery post. (3) Loosen distributor adjustment clamp bolt and back off distributor by turning it clockwise until light comes on. If light is on to begin with, this back-off will not be necessary. (4) Turn distributor slowly counter-clockwise (which is against direction of rotor travel) until instant light goes out. (5) Tighten clamp bolt.

3. ADJUSTING IGNITION TIMING

To advance or retard the timing to conform with special conditions, leave timing light Tool C-693 hooked up, as outlined above and proceed according to the following instructions: In high altitudes where there is less tendency for spark ping or with hiaher octane standard or premium fuels, improved performance may be obtained by advancing the spark not to exceed 4 to 6 degrees ahead of specified setting. Within foregoing limits, that is, from 4 to 6 degrees earlier to 4 to 6 degrees later than specified timing, a good rule to follow is to advance the spark until a slight ping is audible when accelerating from 15 miles per hour in high gear with wide open throttle. The distributor should be moved clockwise to retard and counter-clockwise to advance ignition. N e v e r exceed 8 degrees BTDC due to inaudible preignition at high speeds.

First, make sure that points have been properly adjusted and that distributor has been properly installed in engine. Then, timing can be most satisfactorily adjusted with the use of timing light Tool C-693 as follows:

5ef fo Specified Firing Position (Engine Running) (1) Check to see that pointer has not been bent. Place a chalk mark on the vibration damper at the basic setting (4 degrees BTDC Red Ram), (6 degrees BTDC Super Red Ram), (2 degrees BTDC D-500 models). (2) Insert male end of adapter Tool C-3066 into No. 1 (marked by a red plastic tower cover) distributor tower and insert No. 1 spark plug wire into female end of adapter. (3) Attach timing light Tool C-863 as follows; (a) Connect blue wire to metal female end of adapter Tool C-3066.

Set to Take Advantage of High Altitude or High Octane Fuels

ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM (8 CYL.)

BEARING RETAINER CUPS

BREAKER PLATE

I 54x567A

¿- 52x279A

Fig. 2—Removing or Installing Breaker Plate

p¡g. 3—Releasing Distributor Bearing

4. SERVICING THE DISTRIBUTOR The distributor should be tested and recalibrated approximately every 10f000 miles in order to insure efficient engine operation. Before attempting to calibrate the distributor, check the drive shaft bushings. If the play in the shaft is more than .005 inch, replace bushings as outlined in this Section.

bearing for looseness which may cause erratic advance. Clean the bearing in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Repack the bearing ½ full of high melting point non-fibre grease, then reassemble. At reassembly, be sure the bearing is seated completely in the lower plate, then slide retainers over bearing to lock in position. (5) Clamp the distributor base in a vise, then attach Tool C-707 with dial indicator to the base. Adjust the plunger of the indicator against the drive shaft, just above the cam. (6) Place the hook of spring scale Tool C-690 over end of shaft and apply a five pound pull to the shaft in direct line with the indicator plunger, as shown in Figure 4. If the side play exceeds .005 inch, install new bushings. (7) To remove the two bushings, drive out the retaining pin that holds the distributor drive shaft, lower thrust

5. SERVICING DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHINGS To check the distributor drive shaft bushings before attempting to calibrate the distributor, proceed a s follows: ¢ 1) Remove the screws that hold the vacuum chamber to the distributor base. (2) Remove the spring clip that holds the vacuum chamber arm to the breaker plate, then disengage lever from plate and remove vacuum chamber from distributor. (3) Remove the screws and lockwashers that hold the distributor cap clamp springs to the distributor base, then lift off clamp springs. (4) Loosen the primary lead terminal nuts and slide the primary lead off terminal. Now, lift out the breaker plate assembly, as shown in Figure 2. Check the breaker plate for evidence of dirt, water or oil. If breaker plate is dirty, clean in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect the primary lead, ground lead and condenser lead for breaks or frayed insulation. Replace if not in good condition. Check the upper plate of the breaker and make sure that it is not loose, and that the plate turns freely on the bearings. If the bearing binds, sticks or does not turn free, slide the bearing retainer clips out and away from bearing, as shown in Figure 3, then gently pry the upper and lower plate apart to expose the bearing. Check

52x280

F¡g. 4—Checking Distributor Shaft Side Play

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

DRIVER T O O L -

DRIVER TOOL

ADAPTOR

52x281

Fig. 5—Removing Drive Shaft Bushings

GOVERNOR WEIGHT

UPPER THRUST WASHER

C A M A N D YOKE

52x282

Fig. 6—Removing Cam Yoke

washer and collar in the distributor base. Now slide collar off end of shaft. (8) Using a fine file, clean the burrs from around the pin hole in the shaft, then slide the lower thrust washer off shaft. (9) Tap the distributor drive shaft lightly with a soft hammer, then slide out of base. Remove the felt pad from the center of the distributor cam. (10) Remove the distributor shaft oiler, then lift out the oiler wick. (11) Insert the driver portion of Tool C-3041 in the top bushing, then place base and Tool under arbor press. Exert sufficient pressure to force out the top, and lower bushings from the bottom of base, as shown in Figure 5. (12) Remove the spring clip from the center of the drive shaft that retains the cam and yoke. Slide the cam and yoke off distributor shaft, as shown in Figure 6. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air, then inspect for wear or damage. Be sure the weight slots in the yoke on the cam are smooth and not worn excessively. Slide the cam over the drive shaft, makinq sure it operates smoothly.

52x283

Fig. 7—Installing Upper Bushing

Assemble the distributor as follows: (1) Soak the new bushings in light engine oil for approximately 15 minutes before installing in the distributor base. (2) Place adaptor (part of Tool C-3041) over the driver, with the shoulder down. Now, slide the new bushing over end of driver and down on shoulder of adaptor. (3) Insert the bushing and driver into bore at the top of distributor base and press into position, as shown in Figure 8. (If Tool C-3041 is not available, press the upper bushing down in the bore to .094 inch below top of bore.) Remove Tool. (4) Invert distributor base and then change the position of the adaptor on driver. Slide new bushing over

DRIVER TOOL

52x284A

Fig. 8—Installing Lower Bushing

ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM (8 CYL.)

BURNISHING TOOL

-POINTS JUST BRÊAKÍNG UPPER BUSHING

¾ i

I Fig. 9—Burnishing Drive Shaft Bushings 52x287

end of driver and seat against flat surface of adaptor. (5) Insert bushing and driver into bore at the bottom of the distributor base and press into position, as shown in Figure 8. (6) Insert a ¼ inch drill through the oiler wick hole and bore a hole through the top bushing. Remove any burrs caused by the drilling operation. (7) Install burnishing tool (part of Tool C-3041) into top bushing and force through the bushings just installed, as shown in Figure 9. (The burnishing tool is designed to give the correct inside diameter of .4995 to .5000 inch.) (8) Slide the cam and yoke over end of drive shaít and secure with spring clip. (See Figure 10.) As the cam and yoke are being slid over shaft, engage weight lugs with slots in yoke. Lubricate the governor weight pivots, yoke slots and cam sleeve with engine oil. (9) Slide the inner thrust washers over shaft and up CAM AND YOKE

LIGHT SPRING

Fig. 11—Testing Breaker Arm Spring Tension

into position against governor plate. Now, lubricate the shaft with S.A.E. 10W engine oil, and install in distributor base. (10) Slide outer thrust washer and collar over drive shaft then install new pin. (Peen ends of pin over shaft.) (11) Soak the oiler wick and felt pad in SAE 10W engine oil, squeeze slightly and then install in their respective positions. Install oiler and tap gently in place. (12) Install breaker plate in position and line up attaching screw holes. Now install the distributor cap clamp springs and screws, then tighten securely. (13) Slide the primary lead end clip over terminal and tighten nut securely. (14) Install the vacuum chamber in distributor, engaging chamber arm with the pin on breaker plate. Install vacuum chamber attaching screws. Tighten securely. (15) Install the spring clip over breaker plate pin to secure vacuum chamber arm. Next, test the breaker arm spring tension as follows:

SPRING CLIP HEAVY SPR!NG

52x286

Fig. 10—Distributor Cam Installed

TESTING BREAKER ARM SPRING TENSION

Hook a spring scale on the arm at the point end and pull at right angle to the point surfaces, as shown in Figure 11. Take a reading as the points start to separate. The spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces; if not, loosen the screw which holds the end of the point spring and slide the end of spring in or out as necessary. D o not pull conductor ribbon tight against spring, as this will cause the ribbon to fatigue and break. Retighten screw and recheck tension.

7. CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR GOVERNOR Automatic Advance Curve The Automatic Advance Curve varies with different

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

model distributors. Check the model number on the identification plate of the distributor and refer to the proper specifications before making this test. Mount the distributor assembly in a test stand and check the distributor rpm and degrees of advance a s follows: (1) Operate the distributor in the correct rotation, at increased speeds until the distributor spark advances. Reduce the speed and set the indicator to zero. (2) Now increase the distributor speed to 300 rpm. The degree reading should be 0°. (3) Again increase the speed to 420 rpm, and refer to specifications. If the advance is not according to specifications, stop the distributor and bend the outer spring lug on the light weight spring to change its tension. (4) Check this adjustment again, operate the distributor at the next higher specified speed. If this advance is not as specified, stop the distributor and bend the outer spring lug on the heavy weight spring to change its tension. (5) Now, recheck the zero point and the above two settings and make the changes required, then check the advance at all of the points specified. W h e n m a k i n g this last check, operate the distributor both up and down the speed range. If variations exist, between the readings for increasing and decreasing speeds, they are an indication the governor action is sluggish and requires an overhaul. 8. CHECKING THE VACUUM ADVANCE Vacuum Advance Curve The Vacuum Advance Curve varies with different model distributors. Check the model number on the identification plate of the distributor and refer to the proper specifications before making this test. After checking the distributor governor action, check the vacuum advance a s follows: (1) Connect the vacuum line, using care not to distort the vacuum housing. Turn on the vacuum pump to give a reading of 10 to 20 inches of vacuum, then shut off pump. If the gauge reading falls, it indicates leakage in the vacuum chamber, pump, gauge or connections and should be located and corrected before check is made. (2) Operate at about 800 RPM where the gauge will show a steady reading. (3) Set the indicator to zero and apply vacuum to give one of the advance figures specified. If the advance reading is incorrect, change the spacer washers between the vacuum chamber spring and nut. If t h e reading is below specifications* remove necessary washers to give correct reading. If the reading is above specifications, add necessary thickness washers to give a correct reading.

When changing washers, be sure and tighten the nut securely and have the nut gasket in place. When one point of the curve is adjusted, the others should be checked. If they are not correct, it indicates either incorrect spring characteristics or a leak in the vacuum chamber or tubes. 9. DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION Distributors should be lubricated at regular intervals, and at the following points: At Regular Chassis Lubrication Periods — Add 3 to 5 drops of SAE 10W to the oiler on the outside of distributor base. At Every 1 0 . 0 0 0 Miles — Lubricate felt pad under rotor with 3 to 5 drops of oil and also apply a drop of oil to the breaker arm pivot pin. Operate the arm several times to allow the oil to penetrate, then wipe away excess oil. Apply a light film of distributor cam grease to the sides of the breaker cam. (Keep oil a n d g r e a s e away from breaker points.) 10. DISTRIBUTOR BASIC TIMING Before installing the distributor on the engine, check to be sure that the lower distributor drive shaft is in correct position. The slot in the shaft should be parallel with the crankshaft, as shown in Figure 13. If the gear slot is not in the position shown, proceed as follows: (1) Rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (or firing position). When in this position the pointer on the chain case cover should be over "DC" on the vibration damper or pulley. (2) Using Tool C-3027, position the oil pump shaft so that the handle of the tool lines up the same as the gear shown in Figure 13.

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

Fig. 13—Distributor (Basic) Timing

ELECTRICAL - GENERATOR (3) Coat the shaft of the intermediate drive gear with engine oil, then install so that after the gear spirals into place, it will index with the oil pump shaft and the slot in the top of the drive gear will be parallel with the centerline of the crankcase, as shown in Figure 13. (4) Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on the cylinder block, with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the right hand cylinder bank. Turn the rotor until it points forward and to the approximate location of the No. 1 insert in the cap. (This is indicated by the red tower cap). Now turn the rotor counter-clockwise until the contacts are just separating. Place the distributor oil seal ring in position, then lower the distributor and engage in the slot in drive gear. (Be sure and hold the rotor in position.) Secure with clamp and bolt. Tighten securely. Install the distributor cap and secure with damps. Start the engine and warm up to 160Â° F. then check the distributor timing as described in this Section.

11.

IGNITION COIL

The ignition coil transforms battery voltage into high voltage for the spark plugs. The coil is designed to operate with a ballast resistor. The resistor is mounted on the coil bracket and must be included with coil when making a test of primary output. Coils that are tested without the resistor will appear to be defective. Always make two tests when checking coil. One when coil is cold, the other after the coil has warmed up. The ballast resistor and coil must be tested together for output. Clean oil and dust from coil. Clean corrosion from secondary tower and push cable all the way in. Be sure primary leads are connected to proper primary terminal according to polarity markings. Check coil for external leaks and arcing. A quick coil check may be made by removing coil high tension wire at distributor cap and holding it near cylinder head. With ignition switch turned on and starting motor cranking the engine, a spark should jump from the end of the high tension wire to the cylinder head.

If spark is more than Âź inch long, the coil is in good condition and the trouble is elsewhere in the electrical system. Check the electrical system to determine the cause and correct as necessary. The ignition coil has been carefully designed to give maximum power and performance. No improvements can be obtained by use of other than the original equipment type of unit. If there is a clear indication that coil is defective, it should be replaced with a unit of same make and model.

12. SPARK PLUGS The resistor type spark plug incorporates a resistor which, with the resistor in the distributor, eliminates radio static noises. By using a high voltage, high output coil and 10,000 ohm resistor in the distributor cap, the spark plug gap is .035 inch. This improves idle and low speed operating performance. For best engine performance and economical operation, spark plugs should be kept clean. They should be cleaned frequently in a blast type cleaner which will remove deposit formed by use of chemically treated fuels for high compression engines. If this deposit is not removed, the engine may "miss" under heavy load or high speed driving. It is advisable to clean the spark plug seats and to use new gaskets (no gaskets are used on D-500 models) each time the plugs are removed for cleaning, inspection or replacement. Maintenance of the temperature of the plugs depends largely upon the proper installation and tightening of the plugs in the cylinder head to insure the proper heat transfer from the nose of each plug through the shell and seat gasket to the engine's cooling system. After cleaning the spark plugs, adjust the gap to .035 inch, using a round feeler gauge. Make all adjustments on the side electrode of the spark plug. If the center electrode is bent, the porcelain may crack, resulting in plug failure.

GENERATOR CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N General Information Generator Maintenance Servicing Generator Servicing Generator Armature Servicing Generator Brushes. Testing Generator

Par.

Page

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 5 4 3 2 1

62 64 63 62 62 62

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Open charging circuit Sticking brushes Dirty or burned commutator Grounded commutator Grounded field coil Open circuit in field Poor soldering on armature and field studs Defective voltage regulator Slipping fan belt Defective ammeter Improperly seated brushes Weak brush spring tension Poor bond between brush and pigtail Out-of-round commutator Resistance in charging circuit High mica between commutator bars Open armature winding High resistance at battery terminal posts Poor regulator ground Overheated battery Shorted field Grounded field—external (wiring harness) Shorted battery cell Cold battery Misaligned fan belt or pulley Worn bushing or bearing Loose generator drive pulley Loose field pole pieces High wedges in armature slots Bent flange on pulley Generator fan blades striking object Broken or cracked sections in fan belt Generator belt too tight Sprung armature shaft Dirty, glazed commutator Hard spots on brushes Worn or loose brushes Loose wiring at pigtails Excessive voltage output Incorrect brushes Scored or worn armature Worn shaft bearing (pole rub) Short between armature coil Generator or regulator connected incorrectly

Armature Failure (Premature)

Noise and Arcing at Brushes

Generator Noisy

Excessive Charging Rate

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Low, Unsteady Charging Rate

CONDITIONS a^>

Generator Fails to Charge

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

1 í î í í í •

•

• • •

•

• • • • • •

• < í i í í í i í <

• i î i í

PULLEY-

NUT

END FRAME

WASHER BEARING GASKET RETAINER PLATE

FIELD COiLS

WASHER SCREW

SNAP RING f

-–——KEY ARMATURE

SPRING BRUSH ARM SCREW OILER

T o m m

POLE SHOES SCREW-

•**fr

SPRING BRUSH 56X39

Fig. 1—Generator (Exploded View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The 12 volt generator shown in Figure 1 is of the heavy duty, air cooled, shunt type, with which an automatic cutout, current and voltage regulator is used. The output of the unit is controlled in relation to the voltage requirements of keeping the battery fully charged and maintaining proper voltage for normal driving conditions. 1. TESTING GENERATOR Generator Motoring Test—In order to determine if a generator is in operating condition, a motoring test is often used. To test generator, loosen and remove fan belt from generator pulley. Connect a jumper between the "hot" terminal of the starter solenoid switch and the armature terminal. If the generator "motors" slowly, it should be able to generate. However, if the generator does not "motor" and a flash is obtained as jumper is connected, connect another jumper between the field terminal and a good ground. If the generator now "motors," check the regulator for trouble in the field to ground circuit, which would normally energize the generator field. If generator does not function after above test, remove and disassemble and test component parts as follows: Testing Field Coils for Ground —Check for grounds in the field coils, terminals or leads by touching each terminal and ground with test probes. Be sure the leads and their terminals are not touching the frame. Connect an ammeter and variable resistance in series between a battery and the two leads of the complete set of field coils, then connect a voltmeter to the coil leads. Adjust the voltage to the specified value and read the ammeter. If the current is not within specifications, it indicates faulty coils, which should be replaced. If a ground is present, or if the field coil draw is incorrect, remove the terminal stud nuts and press studs out of frame. Check the insulating bushings and washers for cracks or damage, then retest field coils for grounds. If the coils are grounded, remove the pole shoe screws and slide coils out of frame. Replace any faulty parts, making sure all connections are properly soldered to make a strong, low resistance connection. Testing for Open Circuit in Held Coils—Place the generator frame and field coil assembly on test bench. Check for open circuit in the field coils, terminals or leads by touching each terminal and lead with test probes. If test light does not burn, either the coils are open or lead connections are loose or broken. Check to determine cause and correct accordingly. Cheeking for Resistance in Charging Circuit— The wiring harness between generator, regulator, ammeter and battery should be inspected for loose connections, breaks (where wires are clamped by terminals),

frayed or damaged insulation. Special attention should be given to the battery terminals. Tool MX-75, greatly facilitates the removal of corrosion at this point. Numerous cases of corroded battery terminals have been misinterpreted as a defective generator or regulator, with the result, servicemen have attempted to "flash" the generator field to restore residual magnetism. If this is done it may damage the generator. 2. SERVICING GENERATOR BRUSHES It will be necessary to disassemble the generator to service the brushes. However, a visual inspection can be made by using a small mirror and a bright light. Check through the air cooling openings in the commutator end frame to determine condition of brushes and commutator. Generator brushes should be examined at disassembly of generator to make certain that they are free in the holders, seat properly and not worn excessively. Brushes should be examined periodically, or each time the generator is serviced. Brush Inspection—Brushes which are worn short or covered with dirt and oil, should be replaced to avoid damage to the commutator and windings. Should inspection show that the brushes are badly worn, or the commutator is rough or worn so that the mica is even with bars, the generator should be completely dismantled, cleaned, commutator turned, mica undercut, new brushes fitted and bench tested before installation. Installing New Brushes—When new brushes are installed, they should be seated with sandpaper to obtain a correct fit against the commutator. To seat brush against commutator, use a strip of No. 00 sandpaper as wide as the finished surface of the commutator. Lift the brush and slide sandpaper grit side up between commutator and brush. With spring pressure against brush, slowly turn armature in correct rotation, pulling sandpaper from under brush. Repeat operation until, brushes seat at least 75 per cent over the entire contact surface. (Excessive use of sandpaper will shorten brush life and should be avoided.) Blow out all sand and carbon dust from the generator and tighten pigtail connections securely. Brush Spring Tension—Brush spring tension is very important and should be checked with each inspection. Too much tension will cause rapid wear of the brushes and commutator, while too little tension will cause arcing and low output of the generator. Brush spring tension should be from 18 to 26 ounces. Hook spring scale Tool MTU-36 under brush spring and pull on a line parallel to the face of the brush. Take reading just as the spring leaves the brush. Discard springs that do not meet specifications.

GENERATOR

56x551

Fig. 2—Testing Armature for Ground

3. SERVICING GENERATOR ARMATURE Before servicing the armature assembly, check for scored core laminations or wedges, worn or out-of-round commutator, bent or excessively worn shaft, out-of-place windings and if the soldered connections at the commutator bars are tight. Testing Armature for Ground—With test probes, test for grounded armature by touching one probe to shaft and to each commutator bar with the other. (Care should be exercised in testing for grounds, not to touch probe to the face of commutator or shaft bearing surface.) If the armature is grounded, as indicated by test lamp, replace armature assembly with a new one. (See Figure 2.) Testing Armature for Short—Place armature assembly on the growler on test bench. Turn armature slowly while holding a hacksaw blade or other thin strip of steel over the core of armature. Vibration of the blade will indicate a shorted coil and will necessitate replacement. (See Figure 3.)

56x552

Fig. 3—Testing Armature for Short

Checking C o m m u t a t o r Runout—With armature shaft bearing surfaces resting in "V" blocks, place a dial indicator against commutator. Rotate armature, while taking indicator reading. If runout is more than .005 inch, reface commutator as described below. Retacing Commutator—If the commutator is rough, out-of-round, burned or if the mica is even with, or extends above the surface, the commutator should be turned down. Remove only sufficient metal to give a smooth clean surface. Undercutting Mica—Undercut mica segments to a depth of approximately ½ 2 m c h deep, using a fine tooth hackshaw blade. Be sure to undercut mica square, the full width of slot. After undercutting, polish the commutator with No. 00 sandpaper to remove possible burred edges. 4. SERVICING GENERATOR In order to insure dependable generator performance, it is advisable to keep the generator clean on the inside and outside. Whenever cleaning the assembly, do not soak coils, armature or insulation in cleaning solvent. Frame and field assembly should be disassembled and inspected for faulty or deteriorated insulation and stripped threads, after cleaning with a clean cloth dampened in a suitable solvent. Test coils, leads and terminals for grounds as described in this Section. When installing new coils or pole shoes, dip the mounting screws in boiled linseed oil before assembly. As the screws are tightened, rap the frame one or two sharp blows with a rubber hammer to help settle and align the pole shoes. Inspect the leads, insulating bushings and washers; if they are cracked or damaged, replace as required. Commutator e n d h e a d should be disassembled; then clean the head, brush plates and holders with a suitable solvent. Do not soak the insulation; wipe with a clean dry rag. Check armature shaft bushing for wear and if necessary, replace as outlined in this Section. Inspect all other parts for wear or distortion, replacing parts as required. If brush holders are loose, do not attempt to tighten, but replace head. Test brush springs for tension and holders for grounds or shorts as described in this Section. Drive end h e a d should be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly in a suitable solvent. (Before cleaning remove felts and wipe with a clean cloth.) Inspect all parts for excessive wear, cracks or distortion and replace as required. The ball bearing and bronze bushing should be inspected for wear and replaced if necessary. Clean the ball bearing in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. DO MOT SPIN THE BEARING WITH AIR PRESSURE. Check bearing carefully for pitting or looseness, if satisfactory for further service, pack half full of high tern-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

perature non-fibre grease and install in head. Soak bronze bushing and íelts in clean engine oil, compressing felts slightly to remove excess oil before installation. II the bronze bushing in the commutator end head is worn or scored, it should be replaced. (A worn bushing may allow the armature core to rub against the pole shoes and cause damage.) Press out the worn bushing and install the new, using a suitable tool or mandrel. The end of the tool or mandrel should be well polished and .0005 inch larger than the armature shaft. UNDER HO CONDITION EVER REAM AN OILITE TYPE BUSHING. Be sure to soak the bushing in clean oil before installation. When assembling armature and drive end head, install felt washer retainer on shaft, over snap ring before pressing shaft into bearing. This retainer turns with the shaft and inner race and prevents tearing of the felt washer by the snap ring. Be sure that the snap ring on the armature shaft is pressed

firmly against the inner race of the bearing. When installing the through bolts, care must be taken that the lower bolt is installed UNDER the loop in the field connection insulation to prevent grounding of the field coils by the bolt. When installing commutator end head, remove the felt wick and reinstall it after the head and armature are assembled on the generator. This will prevent the wick from being damaged as the shaft is inserted. 5. GENERATOR MAINTENANCE The generator should be lubricated and inspected periodically for external conditions which will affect the generator operation. It is recommended that the generator oilers be given 3 to 5 drops of medium engine oil in each oiler, at regular Chassis Lubrication periods. At regular periods, approximately 5,000 miles, the outside of the generator should be wiped clean and the ventilating holes and fan inspected for an accumulation of dirt which would obstruct the flow of air.

CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par. — 1 5 2 4 3

General Information Regulator Inspection Servicing Regulator Contact Points Testing Circuit Breaker Testing Current Regulators Testing Voltage Regulator

Page 65 65 67 66 67 67

Poor ground connections Misaligned contact points Improper air gap setting Shorted generator field Long usage—under normal wear High current output of generator Insufficient point spring tension Reversed polarity in generator High voltage regulator setting High current regulator setting Grounded generator field Regulator incorrectly connected Accidental momentary short between battery terminal and field terminal of regulator Wrong procedure in connecting generator Foreign material between points Poor ground Wrong polarity at regulator Pitted or oxidized points Defective regulator winding

• • • •

Sticking Contact Points

Stuck Cutout Points

Burned Contact Arm

Burned Coil Windings

POSSIBLE CAUSES T ,

Regulator Points Pitted

CONDITIONS ^ ·

Regulator Points Oxidized

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• •

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • •

CURRENT A N D VOLTAGE REGULATOR

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The current and voltage regulator assembly, (See Figure 1) contains three units, namely the circuit breaker, the current regulator and voltage regulator. Each unit has its own function to perform. The circuit breaker acts as an automatic switch between the generator and the battery. The circuit breaker closes the charging circuit when the generator is charging and opens the circuit when the generator is not charging. This action prevents the battery discharging back through the generator. The current regulator limits the maximum current output of the generator in amperes. When the generator output reaches a predetermined maximum, the regulator points are opened, cutting in a resistance in the generator field circuit, thus reducing the output. Immediately upon the dropping of the output, the points close, cutting out the resistance and the output rises. These cycles occur so rapidly that the points vibrate at a high frequency, thus holding the output constant at a: predetermined maximum. The voltage regulator is used for holding the voltage of the electrical system constant within close limits. When the voltage rises to a predetermined value, the regulator contact point vibrate, thus cutting a resistance in and out of the generator field circuit. CAUTION Do not attempt to adjust the regulator assembly unless its operation is thoroughly understood a n d accurate meters a r e a v a i l a b l e . Even a slight error in the setting of the unit m a y cause improper functioning, resulting in a run down or overcharged battery, burned ignition points or other malfunctioning. 1.

REGULATOR INSPECTION

Remove regulator cover after checking to determine if seal has been broken. This may indicate a previous adjustment or repair has been made. If such is the case, a close visual inspection should be made to determine if any of the following conditions exist: (1) Loose or broken connections resulting from poor soldering or rough handling. (2) Evidence of burning or abnormal high temperatures at the coils, contact points, insulation or flexible arm to which regulator contacts are mounted. (3) Broken or altered resistors. (4) Improperly installed armature springs, distorted spring hangers, bent armatures, yokes or hinges. (5) Evidence of moisture or corrosion in regulator. If any of the above conditions are apparent, or if regulator is in poor condition, it should be replaced.

Before testing or adjusting regulator, the following tests should be made: (1) Test and check the wiring in the charging circuit. Be sure all connections are clean, tight and in good condition. (2) Test the specific gravity and check the ground polarity and voltage of the battery. If not fully charged and in good condition, substitute temporarily for test purposes, a fully charged battery of the same type and capacity. (3) Check generator for operation without the regulator in the circuit.

CUT OUT RELAY

CURRENT REGULATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Âą CONTACT POINTS

SPRING HANGERS BATTERY TERMINAL ARMATURE SPRINGS STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE CURRENT REGULATOR UT RELAY VOLTAGE REGULATOR

ADJUSTING SCREWS FIELD TERMINAL ARMATURE TERMINAL

SPRING HANGER 5lx6i8A

Fig. 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Current and Voltage Regulator

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

5¶x6¶9 Fig. 3—Refacing Regulator Contact Points

4_9x773A Fig. 2—Regulator Wiring and Test Connection 1-Voltage regulator coil 2—Current regulator coil 3-C¡rcu¡t breaker coil 4—Voltmeter connection for current and voltage regulator tests 5—Regulator battery terminal 6—Regulator ground screws

7—Regulator field terminal 8—Regulator armature terminal 9—Voltmeter connection for circuit breaker test 10—Test ammeter 11—Battery 12—Generator

(4) Check the part numbers stamped on the name plate oí the generator and regulator to make sure the correct regulator has been installed. Regulators are designed for use with a generator having a specified field draw, output, internal connections and speed range and may not work properly if an incorrect substitution has been made. 2. TESTING CIRCUIT BREAKER Disconnect wire from "B" terminal oí the regulator; connect the positive (+) lead oí a test ammeter to the wire removed and the negative (—) lead to the regulator "B" terminal (10), as shown in Figure 2. Connect the negative (—) lead oí a test voltmeter to the "A" terminal of the regulator and positive (+) lead to the regulator housing ground (9), as shown in Figure 2. Start engine and be sure it idles smoothly, then increase engine speed slowly to determine when the circuit breaker points close. When the hand on the voltmeter kicks back slightly, it indicates points have closed; this should occur at 13.0 to 13.75 volts. If an adjustment is necessary, remove regulator cover and inspect the contacts of all three units. In normal use, the contacts will become grayed. If the contacts are

51x620 Fig. 4—Cleaning Contact Points

57X397

Fig. 5—Checking Regulator Air Gaps

burned, dirty or pitted, service the regulator contact points as outlined in paragraph 5. If an adjustment is necessary, remove regulator cover and service the contact points as outlined in this Section.

CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR 3. TESTING VOLTAGE REGULATOR Change voltmeter connection from armature to battery terminal of regulator, as shown in Figure 2, then connect a variable resistance across the battery posts. Run engine at a speed equivalent to 30 miles per hour for 15 minutes until voltage remains constant and the charging rate has dropped from its peak. Cover must be on regulator during this warm-up period and when taking test readings. The voltage regulator must control the voltage to 14.58 volts at 70° F. 4. TESTING CURRENT REGULATORS Leave the voltmeter and ammeter connected as when testing the voltage regulator. Run engine at a speed equivalent to 30 miles per hour for 15 additional minutes, applying enough resistance load across the battery to maintain the voltmeter registering between 14.2 and 14.4 volts. At 70° F„ the current regulator should operate at the lower figure indicated on the regulator name plate, plus or minus 2 amps, at the conclusion of the warm-up period. If an adjustment is necessary, remove regulator cover and service the points as outlined in this Section. Use care in removing or replacing regulator cover in order not to touch the circuit breaker, as this would cause a short circuit and damage the regulator assembly. SERVICING REGULATOR CONTACT POINTS Remove regulator cover and inspect the contact points of all three units. In normal use, the contacts will become grayed. If the contact points are burned, dirty or pitted, reface with a clean ignition file. CAUTION Never use sandpaper, emery cloth or a file that has been used on other metal· Particles of emery, sand or metal may become embedded in the points and cause them to burn rapidly—or cause an open circuit. To reface contact points file lengthwise and parallel to the armature, as shown in Figure 3, until the contact points present a smooth flat surface toward each other. It will not be necessary to remove all traces of pitting. Crossways filing may form grooves which would tend to cause sticking and erratic operation. Clean the contact points after filing with a strip of linen or lintless bond tape, as shown in Figure 4. Be sure no lint remains between contacts after cleaning. After refacing and cleaning the contact points, it will be necessary to readjust the armature air gaps to compensate for metal removed from contacts. To check the current and voltage regulator

FLAT GAUGE

51x625

Fig. 6—Checking Circuit Air Gap

ARMATURE STOP STATIONARY CONTACT BRIDGE

.-,

Fig. 7—Adjusting Circuit Breaker Contact Gap

BENDING TOOL

51x622

Fig. 8—Adjusting Armature Spring Tension

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

air g a p s , use the pin type gauge from Kit No. C-828 which measures .048 on one end and .052 on the other end. Hook up a test light to spring hanger and adjusting screw. Insert the .048 gauge between the armature and the magnet core next to the rivet head, as shown in Figure 5. By forcing the armature down on the gauge, by applying pressure on the plate instead of the reed, the test light should go out. Also, by inserting the .052 gauge, following the above procedure, the test light should stay on. To adjust air g a p , loosen the bracket screw and raise or lower the contact point brackets until the desired clearance is obtained. Be sure these screws are tightened securely after adjustments are made. When the armature is held down so that the stop rivet rests on the magnet core, the point gap should be a minimum of .012 inch when checked with a feeler gauge. To check the circuit breaker air gap, use flat gauge from Kit C-828, which measures .031 to .034 inch. Insert gauge between armature and magnet core, as shown in Figure 6. Be sure gauge is placed as near to the hinge as possible. To adjust the circuit breaker air gap, bend the armature stop so the space between the core and armature is within the limits specified. Be sure stop does not interfere with the armature movement. Adjust the contact gap to .015 inch by expanding or contracting the stationary contact bridge, as shown in Figure 7. Be sure to keep contact points in alignment when adjusting contact gap. Increasing the contact gap lowers the

30 OHM RESISTOR

Fig. 9—Resistor Assemblies on Regulator

opening voltage and raises the opening reverse current. To adjust armature for proper opening and closing voltages, use bending tool from Kit C-828. With slot in the end of tool placed over the lower spring hanger, as shown in Figure 8, bend hanger to increase or decrease the spring tension until the desired opening or closing voltage is obtained. Checking Resistors—Remove resistors (as shown in Figure 9), one at a time and check for cracks or damage. Replace resistors that show signs of wear or that do not test within specifications when checked with an ohmmeter. The resistor marked 80 should test from 75 to 92 ohms, while the one marked 38 should test from 34.5 to 42 ohms resistance. It is extremely important that the resistors be installed in their original respective locations after testing.

BATTERY CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION

Par. Page

Battery Maintenance Corroded Battery Terminals General Information Resealing Battery Testing Battery

1 3 — 4 2

69 71 69 71 70

Low regulator setting Loose fan belt Corroded battery terminals Short in charging circuit

‡

• # •

Battery Will Not Take a Charge

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Battery Will Not Retain Water

CONDITIONS mÊþ>

Battery Run Down

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

BATTERY

‡

Battery Will Not Retain Water

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Battery Run Down

CONDITIONS

Battery Will Not Take a Charge

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S - ( C o n † i n u e d )

• • • •

Stuck cutout in regulator Excessive use of electrical units Faulty stop light switch Insufficient driving or excessive short trip driving Too high charging rate Cracked battery case Leaking battery cell Incorrect current regulator Sealing material not effective Plate damaged through overcharging Electrolyte level low Worn out battery Internal short circuit Impure electrolyte

í • • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The storage batteries used are 12 volt, 9 or 11 plate, with ratings from 45 to 60 amp hours capacity, (See Specifications for usage), with the negative post grounded. A voltage and current regulator protects the battery from being overcharged. The electrolyte liquid in the battery should be maintained at the proper level of ¾ inch above the plates. Only distilled water should be used in the battery.

BATTERY MAINTENANCE

In order to obtain long life and efficient service from a battery, two important things must be done periodically: (1) The electrolyte, must at all times be kept above the plates and separators. Only pure distilled water should be used. NEVER ADD ELECTROLYTE EXCEPT WHEN IT IS DEFINITELY KNOWN THAT IT HAS BEEN LOST BY SPILLAGE. (2) Be sure the battery is kept nearly charged at all times. Test the specific gravity at frequent intervals in order to determine the state of charge. Should the specific gravity fall below 1.245 in summer (80° and up) or 1.250 in winter, remove the battery and have it charged. Overcharging a battery in excess of what is required, can be harmful in various ways, as follows: O v e r c h a r g i n g causes high internal heat, which speeds corrosion of the positive plate grids and results in damage to the separators and negative plates. The

case may become softened or distorted and the sealing compound displaced. Overcharging results in the separation of water and electrolyte, leaving the acid in a concentrated form, which causes harm to the separators and negative plate material at high temperatures over a period of time. This may cause charring of the separators and rapid corrosion of the positive grids. Overcharging may cause damage by corrosion, on TERMINALS CASE

SEALING COMPOUND

MBÊßÈÊmm POST STRAP

ELEMENT REST— SEDIMENT SPACE"

^ w

56x553

Fig. 1—Battery (Cutaway View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

cables, battery support and other vital electrical or engine parts by forcing liquid from the cells. O v e r c h a r g i n g vaporizes the water from electrolyte into hydrogen and oxygen gas in the form of bubbles. Gas bubbles have a tendency to wash active material from the plates, liberating moisture and acid from the cells in a fine mist. O v e r c h a r g i n g alone, or in conjunction with a previous undercharging, results in severe warping or buckling of the positive plates and perforation of the separators, thus allowing an internal "short." Battery h o l d d o w n bolts, if not properly tightened, are apt to allow the battery to "bounce" or "jiggle" in the support, causing case and plate failure. Whereas hold down bolts drawn too tight will result in a cracked or distorted case. Either of these conditions will result in premature failure of the battery and should be avoided. Tighten battery hold down bolts to the recommended maximum torque of 3 foot-pounds.

Cold Weather Care A battery that is operated in an undercharged condition is liable to freeze during severe winter weather. The freezing point of electrolyte varies with specific gravity variations. A fully charged battery with 1.285 specific gravity corrected to 80° F. will freeze at —90° F. The following chart indicates the freezing points at various specific gravity readings: Specific Gravity (Corrected to 80° F.) L.280 ]L.27O

1.260 1.250 L.200 L.150 1.100

Freezing Point of Battery —90° F. —80° F. —71° F. —62° F. —16° F.

+ 5° F. + 19° F.

The reading of a hydrometer will vary with temperature variations of the electrolyte. (An ordinary thermometer used on liquids may be used to take electrolyte temperature readings. Always take these readings from the center cell). A hydrometer reading of a cell with electrolyte temperature above 80° F. will indicate less than the reading with the electrolyte at 80° F. The opposite holds true where the electrolyte temperature is below 80° F. Hydrometer floats are calibrated to indicate a correct reading only at one temperature, 80° F. The Open Circuit Voltage Tester is an electrical instrument used to indicate the specific gravity of the electrolyte within the plates of the battery; taking its reading at a time when the circuit is open, that is, current is not being delivered to, or taken from the battery. Two things can be determined by this voltage tester: (1) State-of-charge in battery. (2) Condition of battery. To test battery with Open Circuit Voltage Tester turn on the headlights for two minutes to eliminate surface charge. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Hold Tool MT-310 in a vertical position and press it FIRMLY into the battery post and intercell connector. Be sure that the red prod contacts a positive (-}-) battery post or intercell connector and the black prod contacts a negative (—) post or connector. After reading No. 1 cell (starting at negative post of battery), reverse prods for No. 2 cell and reverse again for No. 3. Take reading from gauge, which will show either a serviceable or a rundown condition. If cell volts vary more than 6 divisions, as indicated by gauge, replacement of battery is recommended. A battery having readings that indicate less than ½ charged should be removed and recharged. Batteries having variations in cell voltages of more than .05 volt should be charged and checked with a

Keep battery charged in cold weather,

TESTING BATTERY

WARNING Never allow a flame or spark near an open battery as Hydrogen gas is always present. The battery should be checked periodically with a hydrometer, as shown in Figure 2. The following readings show charge condition: Fully Charged 1.250 to 1.270 Half Charged 1.210 to 1.220 Dangerously Low 1.155 When reading a hydrometer, the barrel must be held in a vertical position with sufficient amount of acid to lift the float freely. Take reading at eye level, disregarding the curvature of the liquid at the edges.

57x144 F¡g. 2-—Checking Battery with Hydrometer

BATTERY

49x685 Fig. 3—Testing Battery Capacity (Typical)

high rate discharge tester or other suitable method before condemning battery. A Portable Battery Capacity Tester such as shown in Figure 3, locates worn out batteries which cannot be found before charge because of even cell wear which does not show up on the Open Circuit Voltage Tester. This instrument is accurately calibrated for testing at 125° F.f the shut-off temperature after a fast charge, or for 80° F. after a slow charge. The instrument can be adjusted for the size of battery, from 45 to 60 amp hours. This instrument should be used in testing a battery before condemnation. The Thermo Signal, which is available in the field, is used for converting any fast charger to thermostatic control. This tool is placed in the battery at the start of charge and will automatically signal by buzzer, when the battery has received its maximum safe fast charge (125° F.). This tool provides a "safety" control to time clock chargers and makes possible after-charge capacity testing as temperature is the same for either slow or fast charging. 3.

CORRODED BATTERY TERMINALS

Corroded battery terminals have often been misinterpreted as defective generators or voltage regulators. Therefore, before diagnosing trouble as generator or regulator, examine the battery terminals for signs of corrosion. The oxidation which occurs between the post and cable clamp, is a thin black coating which is likely to be overlooked. Frequently, this corrosion results in either high resistance or com-

plete open circuit. It is also very erratic and can be open one minute and entirely "ok" the next. The use of battery terminal cleaning Tool MX-75 greatly facilitates the cleaning operation. This tool incorporates a male brush for cleaning the inside of the cable clamp, and a female brush for cleaning the outside of the battery post. To c l e a n cable c l a m p s , remove cover and insert male brush in the cable clamp. Exerting pressure, turn the tool until a clean, bright surface is obtained. To clean battery terminal post, replace cover over male brush and place female brush over battery post. Exerting pressure, force brush down over post and turn tool until a clean, bright surface is obtained. Connect cable clamps to battery posts and tighten securely, then coat connections with vaseline or grease to retard corrosion. The cleaning operation should be done at least once a year or at 10,000 mile intervals. 4.

RESEALING BATTERY

Sealing compounds are used to form an acid tight joint between the covers and containers. To reseal battery, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the old sealing compound from case and covers, to approximately one inch beyond leak or until sealing compound is forming a tight seal. (2) Thoroughly dry the cover and all portions of the container where the sealing compound will make con-

tact. Since the sealing compound will not stick to a wet or dirty surface, special care should be taken in the cleaning process to assure a clean, dry surface. Using a torch, carefully heat the groove where the sealing compound is to be poured, being careful not to scorch the case or cover. (The compound adheres best to a heated surface.) The sealing compound should be quite hot, about 325° F. but must not be heated until it smokes. Inspect the covers and the groove where the hot compound will be poured, in order that the hot seal will not run into the cell. Pour the hot seal into the groove until the proper level is obtained, if the seal should sink slightly, let the first pour cool, then level up with more hot seal. A l w a y s use new sealing compound when resettling a battery.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

HORNS CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par. — 2 1

General Information Horn Adjustment Servicing the Horns

Page 72 73 72

POSSIBLE CAUSES

‡

Improper adjustment Faulty button contact Broken or defective wiring Defective horn Shorted horn relay Shorted wiring Grounded horn button

Horns Blow Continuously

CONDITIONS

Horns Will Not Blow

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • • • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The electric warning horns used on the Dodge are connected through the ignition switch so that they cannot be operated when the switch is in the "off" position. The horns can be operated in the usual manner when the switch is turned "on." The horns are mounted on the hood lock plate with the low note horn on the right and the high note on the left. (If so equipped.) When replacing horns, be sure they are in their respective proper locations as indicated above. 1. SERVICING THE HORNS The horns on the Dodge should be inspected and all dirt or foreign material removed from the projector. If the horns are rusted or corroded, they should be removed for an overhaul and cleaning. Check the horn mounting bracket, if cracked or loose, the damaged parts should be replaced. Inspect the wiring between the horn, horn button or ring, and battery for loose connections, chafed insulation, corroded terminals and partial breaks where the wires enter a conduit or are clamped by a terminal. If the horns are inoperative, or do not have a clear steady tone, they should be removed and cleaned, the covers taken off for inspection of faulty soldering, insulation, the windings for grounds and open circuits and the diaphragm, armature and contact springs for cracks or distortion.

Inspect the contacts, and if rough or burned, dress them down, using a clean file. CAUTION: Do not force the contacts apart as this action will bend the contact spring and change the contact pressure. When tuning a set of horns, each horn must be connected and adjusted separately, then checked for tone by operating as a pair. Do not stuff paper, rags or other material in the projector to muffle the sound as this will change the vibration frequency and give a

52x341 F¡g. l—Removing Horn Cover (Spartan)

ELECTRICAL-LIGHTING SYSTEM

CONTACTS

ADJUSTING NUT

ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT DO NOT DISTURB THIS NUT

57x319 ARMATURE SPRING

false setting. Do not clamp the flange of the horn in a vise, as the pressure may cause a tension on the diaphragm and result in breakage.

" ^ 52x344

Fig. 4—Adjusting Horn (Auto-Lite)

Fig. 2—Adjusting Horn (Spartan)

COVER RETAINING CLIPS 52x343 Fig. 3—Removing Horn Cover (Auto-Lite)

`·~ ^

2. HORN ADJUSTMENT To adjust the Spartan Horn, pry off the cover by inserting a screwdriver in the recess provided, as shown in Figure 1. Turn the adjusting nut counter-clockwise, as shown in Figure 2, until there is no vibration. Then turn the adjusting nut approximately ¼ turn clockwise or until a clear mellow pitch is obtained. To adjust the Auto-Lite Horn, pry the cover retaining clips away from body of horn, as shown in Figure 3. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise, as shown in Figure 4, until there is no vibration. Now turn adjusting screw approximately ¼ turn counterclockwise or until a clear mellow pitch is obtained, then tighten the locknut. Adjust the remaining horn in like manner, then test both horns for combined sound. CAUTION: Do not loosen the locknut in the center of either horn, as damage to the diaphragm may result. Reinstall the horn covers and mount horn (or horns) in position on the lock plate support.

LIGHTING SYSTEM CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N Adjusting Headlights General Information Headlight Aiming Inspecting Lighting Circuit Wiring Instruments and Accessories Wiring Diagram Lighting and Turn Signal Wiring Diagram Location of Fuses or Circuit Breakers Starting, Generating, Ignition and Horn Wiring Diagram (8 cylinder) Starting, Generating, Ignition and Horn Wiring Diagram (6 cylinder) Testing Voltage in Lighting System

Par. 4 — 3 2 — — 5 — — 1

Page 75 74 75 74 77 78 76 76 77 74

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Burned out bulb or unit Defective wiring Defective light switch Loose connections Run down batteryPoor generator or regulator ground connection Normal flare exaggerated by an extremely dark condition or snow Corroded battery connections High charging voltage Low battery charge Poor ground at light socket Excessive battery voltage Short in light circuit Incorrect type of bulb

• • • • •

Bulbs Burn Out Frequently

Lights Flicker

POSSIBLE CAUSES X ,

Head Light Flare

CONDITIONS w^>

Lights Do Not Burn

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • • • • • • < í

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION "Sealed Beam" units and light bulbs in the lighting system of the Dodge are easy to replace. Double filament bulbs are used in the tail lights and parking lights if a directional signal system has been installed. 1. TESTING VOLTAGE IN LIGHTING SYSTEM Headlights—One of the factors affecting headlight efficiency is voltage. Headlight voltage must be measured with the light burning. Remove headlight rim and with Sealed Beam unit partially removed from its mounting seat, attach leads of a low range voltmeter to prongs of the Sealed Beam unit while it is still inserted in the connector socket. With the Sealed Beam unit in its correct position, the top prong supplies current for the traffic beam. One of the side prongs supplies current for the country beam and the other is the ground connection. After the engine has been stopped and lights have burned for five minutes, voltage at headlights, with country beam filament burning, should be not less than 11.0 volts. With lights burning and engine warmed up and running at a speed equivalent to a car speed of about 20 miles per hour, voltage at headlights should be not less than 12.0 volts, nor more than 13.5 volts with battery and generator at room temperature of approximately 70° F. If voltage is low at either headlight socket, with only standard equipment in the circuit, proceed as follows:

Test voltage output of battery; it should be 12 to 12 ½ volts. Clean and tighten battery terminals and ground cable. High Resistance—Check wires and connections to all lights, also main headlight switch and dimmer switch for high resistance. Voltage Drop at Switches—When a voltmeter is placed between ground and input side of a switch and then between ground and output side of switch, with lights burning, the difference in readings will represent the voltage drop in the switch. Voltage Drop in Wiring—This test may be accomplished by taking a reading at each end of the wire. A switch showing a voltage drop of more than one-tenth of a volt, or a wire showing a voltage drop of one-tenth of a volt, should be replaced. If any wire in the lighting circuit has been replaced with other than standard equipment wire, it may lack proper conductivity and cause a voltage drop. The most important wire in the entire circuit is the wire that is connected from the starter switch to the ammeter because it must carry the full load of all branching circuits. 2. INSPECTING LIGHTING CIRCUIT WIRING The wiring in the lighting circuit should be periodically inspected for loose connections, chafed or worn insulation and for corroded connections or terminals. Special examination should be made at all terminal junction blocks. Inspect the switches, bulb sockets and lamp shells for loose mountings and corrosion. Clean and

ELECTRICAL-LIGHTING SYSTEM

tighten where necessary to make a good contact and to eliminate the loss of efficiency due to poor or dirty connections. When replacing wires in the lighting system, be sure and replace with wires of the same size. Refer to the wiring diagram for wire sizes. 3. HEADLIGHT AIMING (See Figure 1) While the Sealed Beam light unit is prefocused within itself, the unit requires aiming to obtain maximum efficiency. Properly aimed Sealed Beam headlights insure the maximum of night driving pleasure and safety. A great many attempts at aiming fail completely because the sensitive aiming adjustment is not fully appreciated. The most important factor in aiming is accuracy. Slight errors in height of the headlight beam on a screen 25 feet ahead of car will very noticeably affect road illumination. If the beam is aimed 2 inches below a horizontal line on a screen 25 feet ahead of the car, it will strike the roadway 250 feet ahead of the car. If aimed 5 inches below horizontal line, it will strike the roadway 150 feet ahead of the car resulting in very poor visibility. When aimed 1 inch below horizontal line, beam will strike roadway 750 feet ahead of car, increasing glare in eyes of approaching drivers with a definite loss of visibility, especially when car is loaded. There are many different types of aiming devices which simplify headlight aiming and proper use of equipment will produce a satisfactory aiming job. Most manufacturers of such equipment furnish complete instructions covering its use. The instructions in this Manual are based on the use of a light colored wall or screen. Headlights can be properly aimed, using Tool C-3552 or as follows:

The most likely source of error in aiming headlights is the floor of the garage. Floors that are apparently level are not necessarily suitable for headlight aiming. The car should be on a perfectly level floor and the floor where screen or other headlight aiming equipment is located should be on exactly the same level and plane as the floor where the car stands. The car should be located so that the headlights are 25 feet from a light-colored wall or aiming screen. A horizontal line should be placed on this surface at a height of 2 inches below that of the headlight centers. A center point should be located on this line by sighting through the windshield in line with the ornament on the hood and the windshield center. From this center point, draw two vertical lines at equal distances right and left. The distance between these vertical lines should be the same as that between the centers of the headlights. These two vertical lines should be immediately ahead of and in line with the headlights. If a perfectly level floor is not available, the horizontal line should be located through the following procedure: Measure the heights from the floor to the center of the headlights and subtract two inches. Cut two sticks or rods to this length. Stand both sticks against the fenders (one front and one rear) on one side of the car. Then stand back of the rear stick and sight forward toward the screen in a manner similar to sighting a gun. Have some one mark the point where vision strikes the aiming screen. This point constitutes one end of the horizontal line. The other end is established by repeating the performance on the other side of the car. A line joining the two points will be exactly the right height and parallel to the plane on which the car is standing regardless of whether such plane is slanting up-grade, down-grade or sidewise. The intersections of the horizontal line and the two vertical lines which are directly ahead of light filaments should be the center of the bright spot of each light. Adjust one headlight at a time with other side covered. Adjustment should be made with the driving beam (high beam) turned "on." The traffic beam (low) then also will be aimed properly. Do not use the traffic beam for aiming lights. In most cases, headlights should be aimed as specified herein. Where state or local laws differ from these specifications, lights should be aimed to conform with such

laws. 2 34x179 Fig. 1—Pattern of Properly Aimed Headlights 1—Upper beam of right headlight 2—Upper beam of both headlights 3—Horizontal line 2 inches below headlight centers 4—Vertical line, in line with center of left headlight 5—Vertical line, in line with windshield center strip 6—Vertical line, in line with center of right headlight 7-Floor level

ADJUSTING HEADLIGHTS

To adjust headlight beams proceed as follows: (1) Remove screws at top and bottom of headlight rim, then lift rim away from headlight. (2) To raise or lower beam, turn adjusting screw in center at top of headlight frame.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(3) To move beam to right or left, turn adjusting screw at left side of headlight frame, as shown in Figure 2.

HORIZONTAL ADJUSTING SCREW

5. LOCATION OF FUSES OR CIRCUIT BREAKERS (1) Headlights, headlight beam indicator, parking lights, ignition switch light, all have their circuits protected by a 15 ampere circuit breaker mounted on the headlight switch. (2) Tail lights, license plate light, and instrument light and clock light, have their circuits protected by a 6 ampere circuit breaker that is built into the headlight switch. (3) Stop lights, dome light, glove compartment light, clock light, and courtesy light also have their circuits protected by another separate 6 ampere circuit breaker that is built into the headlight switch. The h e a d l i g h t switch is the rear switch on the switch duster, the forward switch being for the instrument

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH

SEALED BEAM UNIT

VERTICAL ADJUSTING SCREW

57x317

Fig. 2—Headlight Adjustment STARTER SWITCH (NEUTRAL BUTTONPUSH BUTTON BOX)

VACUUM SWITCH YELLOW YELL(

IGNITION SWITCH 18 DARK BLUE

16 BLACK-WHITE STRIPE

,./ ( h )

TO BATTERY

YELLOW

TO STARTER MOTOR

LLOW

-,r^ I W 7

IGN

FUEL GAUGE'

- I G N I T I O N COIL

-12 RED-WHITE STRIPE TO HEADLIGHT SWITCH

STARTING CIRCUIT FOR TORQUE-FLITE TRANSMISSION

GENERATOR REGULATOR

RADIO CONDENSER IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR 16 BROWN-WHITE STRIPE

. .NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ‡ /(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS ONLY)

GROUND TO MOUNTING

16 BLACK 12 BLACK-WHITE STRIPE

IGNITION COIL

RADIO CONDENSER^

¾¾¾¯

`·\STARTER SOLENOID (GROUND ALL EXCEPT POWERFLITE TRANSMISSION) 12 RED-WHITE STRIPE BATTERY AMMETER

HEADLIGHT SWITCH "BATT" 57x511

Fig. 3—Starter, Generator, Ignition and Horn Wiring Diagram (8 Cylinder)

ELECTRICAL-LIGHTING SYSTEM SPARK PLUGS 1

m <m IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR

RADIO CONDENSER

GENERATOR REGULATOR GENERATOR

J«

HORN RADIO CONDENSER

12 REDWHITE STRIPE

16 BROWNWHITE STRIPE

-18 DARK GREEN GROUND TO MOUNTING SCREW 14 DARK GREEN 14 BLACK

ARM. FLD. BAT.

16 BLACKWHITE STRIPE

CUD

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY) ^STARTER MOTOR

18 DARK BLUE

WITH POWER STEERING ONLY

14 BLACK · HORN BUTTON

4 B BLACK HORN

16 BLACK

18 YELLOW-

4 G BLACK STARTER SOLENOID (GROUND EXCEPT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION) 12 RED WHITE STRIPEBATTERY

HEAD LIGHT SWITCH

AMMETER •12 BLACK WHITE STRIPE— 57x519

Fig. 4—Starter, Generator, Ignition and Horn Wiring Diagram (6 Cylinder)

POWER ANTENNA

STARTER SOLENOID GENERATOR REGULATOR

CIGAR LIGHTER

] 18 RED

1 AMPERE FUSE (BORG CLOCK ONLY)

FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT57x509

Fig. 5—Instruments and Accessories Wiring Diagram

00 RIGHT FRONT AUTOMATIC

,RIGHT PARKING AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT

BLACK

•18 YELLOW-i

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH LOCATED IN PUSH BUTTON BOX O N AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS-LOCATED IN TRANSMISSIONS O N STANDARD TRANSMISSIONS

TURN SIGNAL FLASHER

RIGHT REAR AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

18 BROWN

7C‡¯)

.— IRBLArif

RIGHT TAIL, STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT

18 YELLOW

18 WHITE

- 1 8 WHITE

-Cjp

RIGHT / BACK-UP LIGHT

GLOVE BOX LIGHT AND SWITCH MAP AND DOME IGHT SWITCH 18 YELLOW YELLOW OIL AND TEMPERATURE GAUGE LIGHT SPEEDOMETER LIGHT

RED DOME LIGHT-FOUR DOOR SEDAN LICENSE LIGHT

§ m

»¯CÛ

SPEEDOMETER LIGHT

m -18 BROWN 18 PINK -18 WHITE -18 BLACK

> PUSH BUTTON GEARSHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS 'ONLY) D-6

LEFT TAIL, STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT

D-7

18 YELLOW

- 1 8 LIGHT GREEN-

18 LIGHT GREEN— \lFFT LEFT

PARKING AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHT

L-2

— 1 8 BLACK •

•18 YELLOW-

D-8

18 TANLEFT FRONT AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH-

LEFT REAR AUTOMATICDOOR SWITCH

Fig. 6—Lighting and Turn Signal Wiring Diagram

-18 BLACK

T¿p

-18 DARK GREEN—' ÷

57x513

ELECTRICAL-WINDSHIELD WIPERS D66 D67 D72 FOUR DOOR SEDAN D7O D7l FOUR DOOR SUBURBAN

D66 D67 SPECIAL FOUR DOOR SEDAN

I—ttl‡M

MAP LIGHT-SPECIAL EQUIPMENT MAP LIGHT-SPECIAl EQUIPMENT MAP AND DOME LIGHT SWITCH

AND DOME LIGHT SWITCH

"A" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

"B" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH (D67 AND D7l ONLY)

B" POST AUTOMATIC SWITCH (D67 AND D7l ONLY)

"A" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH "B" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH (D67 ONL

"B" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH (D67 ONLY)

LIGHT AND INTEGRAL MANUAL SWITCH (SUBURBAN ONLYSPECIAL EQUIPMENT) D66 D72 CLUB SEDAN D7O D7l TWO DOOR SUBURBAN

D66 AND D67 SPECIAL CLUB COUPE

D66 AND D67 CONVERTIBLE COUPE

"A" POST AUTOMATIC . DOOR SWITCH

MAP AND DOME LIGHT SWITCH

•A" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

"A" POST AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

MAP AND DOME LIGHT SWITCH

V ROOF RAIL LIGHT

ROOF RAIL LIGHT

POCKET PANEL LIGHT

DOME LIGHT

POCKET PANEL LIGHT

Fig. 7—Lamps and Switches Wiring Diagram

p a n e l lights. S h o u l d a n y o n e of the two circuit b r e a k e r s i n c o r p o r a t e d in the h e a d l i g h t switch a s s e m b l y fail to function p r o p e r l y , it w i l l b e n e c e s s a r y to r e p l a c e the c o m p l e t e h e a d l i g h t switch a s s e m b l y w h i c h c a n b e s e r v i c e d i n d e p e n d e n t l y of the p a n e l light switch. (4) Power window lift circuits are protected by a 20 ampere circuit breaker that is mounted behind the left front kick panel. (5) Power seat electrical circuits are protected by one

20 ampere circuit breaker which is mounted behind the left front kick panel. (6) The convertible top motor circuit is protected by one 25 ampere circuit breaker which is also mounted behind the left front kick panel. (7) Radio—a 9 ampere fuse is located in the radio hot lead connector to protect that circuit. (8) Clock—a 3 ampere fuse is located on the back side of the clock to protect the clock circuit.

ELECTRIC WINDSHIELD WIPER CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

Page

General Information

—

Single Speed Wiper

Windshield Wiper—Variable Speed (Exploded View)

—

Wiring Diagram

—

Variable Speed Off-Glass Park Wiper

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

High resistance in brush to commutator contact, or carbon deposits in slots High resistance in ground connection Pivot shaft binding Defective switch Worn or damaged motor Binding linkage Defective motor Open or grounded wiring Bent wiper blade arms Local climatic conditions Road splash containing deteriorating materials Motor bracket or bracket to dash panel retaining screws too tight Excessive armature end play (Note 1) Parking cam in link installed 180 degrees out of place Spring release in link parking cam improperly installed Motor field leads at control switch reversed Field leads loose on control switch Switch housing not grounded to dash panel Broken link coil spring that operates parking cam Link coil spring release missing Broken or bent spring release finger on link Plate adjustment on motor switch Torsional bend in wiper arm Incorrect wiper blades Note 1—If adjustment of the armature end play is made, the free running amperage draw of the wiper motor should be checked. Under no circumstances should the amperage draw exceed 2.5 to 3 amperes.

Blade Chatters In One Direction, Scrapes Glass in Other

Wiper Blades Park Early or Late

Wiper Will Not Park in Off-Glass Position

Wiper Will Not Start

Blades Strike Moulding and Park High

1 1 Noisy Wiper Motor

Short Service Life of Blades

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Wiper Fails To Operate

CONDITIONS H ^ >

Wiper Operates Slowly

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION Two types of windshield wipers are used. A single speed wiper and a variable speed wiper. Due to difference in height of 4-door sedans, convertibles and hard top windshields, different length wiper arms are required. The windshield wiper motor requires no periodic service except an occasional inspection to see that it is firmly mounted and is operating correctly without excessive vibration or noise at low or high speed.

CAUTION: To avoid damaging the wiper motor gears, do not attempt to move the wiper blades across the windshield when cleaning the glass. Lift wiper blade and arm outward and away from glass against the pivot spring mechanism. 1. SINGLE SPEED WIPER Before disassembling wiper motor, note the relationship between the parking switch, cam and crank arms.

ELECTRICAL-WINDSHIELD WIPERS

WARNING Use care when handling the worm follower gears, as the fine teeth are easily damaged. Inspection — Thoroughly inspect motor parts for wear, corrosion or damage. Clean the armature commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper, or if necessary, turn down the commutator and undercut the bakelite as described below. Worn or oil soaked brushes must be replaced. Check the play of the armature and crank arm shafts in their respective bushings and replace worn parts, if any looseness can be detected. Inspect the worm follower gears for broken or chipped teeth, replacing those showing damage or excessive wear. Ref acing Commutator — If the armature commutator is rough, out-of-round, burned or the bakelite is even with, or extends above the surface of the commutator, turn the commutator down, using turning and undercutting Tool C-770, with special chuck SP-837, cutting Tool SP¯838 and blade, or a lathe. Remove only sufficient metal to give a smooth clean surface. Undercutting Bakelite — Undercut the bakelite segments to a depth of ¾ 6 inch, using Tool C-770, with special blade SP-839, or a fine tooth hacksaw blade. Be sure to undercut the bakelite square. After undercutting, polish the commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper to remove possible burred edges. RIGHT ARM* BLADE RETAINER

Assemble the frame, armature and heads, being careful to raise brushes to allow entrance of commutator. Check armature end play, then adjust by expanding or contracting the bridge, carrying the end thrust bushing by use of adjusting screw provided to correct end play until the desired clearance of .005 to .010 inch is obtained. Rap motor frame several sharp blows with a rubber hammer to align the bushings and then make sure the armature turns easily without binding. Be sure commutator is clean and free from oil or grease. A dirty, greasy commutator will cause a high resistance and greatly impair the efficiency of the wiper. Parking Adjustment — A metal plate is attached to the drive gear from which a segment has been removed. Two fingers ride on this metal plate. One of the fingers, which is also connected to the motor, is energized when the wiper switch is on. When the wiper switch is turned off, the finger attached to the motor is de-energized while the second finger is energized. As long as both fingers ride on the metal plate, the circuit to the motor is complete; however, as soon as one finger drops off into the open segment, the wiper motor shuts off and is in the park position. Parking of the individual blades, in relation to each other, is accomplished by loosening up the nut attaching the wiper arm to the pivot and then moving GROMMET (2) RIGHT PIVOT

GASKET

SCREW (3) WASHER (3) ,GROMMET (3) INNER MOTOR M O U N T I N G PLATE . G R O U N D STRAP ,SPACER (3) ,GROMMET (4) OUTER GASKET MOTOR ASSEMBLY if FIBER WASHER

NUTS (3) GASKETS (3)

MOTOR MOUNTING BRACKET

BRASS WASHER INTERNAL CRANK WASHER BLADE

ELEMENT

BLADE RETAINER

CAM

CAM SPRING TRIP SPRING

LEFT ARM

>-WHEEL NUT

SPRING WASHER SPRING

SCREW (4) WASHER

SPRING TRIP LEFT LINK

FIBER WASHER

/SPRING WASHER

NUT WASHER MOTOR

COVER STRAP SCREW (5) CIRCUIT BREAKER

WASHER LOCKWASHER

\\RETAINER NUT (2) WASHER (2)

BRASS WASHER

BOLT (2)

GROMMET (2) GASKET

57x546

F¡g. 1—Windshield Wiper—Variable Speed (Exploded View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

the wiper arm to the desired position, then tightening the nut. The blades should be set so that they will park approximately 1 inch above the molding. 2.

VARIABLE SPEED WIPER

(Refer to Figure 1) The variable speed motor is a split field, series wound, reversible motor which makes possible the off-glass parking feature. The wiper also contains a newly designed cam spring in the gear box for actuating the off-glass parking switch, and an eccentric in the connecting link, at the wiper crank pivot, which automatically lengthens the links making the off-glass parking position possible. Operation of Link Cam (1) As the wiper crank arm pivot or pin is rotated, the coil spring (which is installed on the pin and is undersize in relation to the pin) is forced to rotate, causing the spring release and parking cam to be rotated by the end of the spring until the parking cam butts up against the stop provided in the link. (2) When the parking cam reaches the stop, the spring release is also held stationary. (3) Pressure now applied by the spring against the spring release now causes it to tend to uncoil the spring, thus releasing the braking action on the crank arm pivot, permitting the pivot to turn freely in its complete cycle of operation. When p a r k i n g c a m h a s b e e n r o tated into position for n o r m a l o p e r a t i o n of the w i n d s h i e l d w i p e r , the c r a n k pin r e t a i n i n g h o l e in t h e c a m will b e f a c i n g t h e f a r e n d of t h e c o n n e c t i n g link a n d i n direct l i n e with it. When i n this position, t h e effective t r a v e l of t h e link h a s b e e n s h o r t e n e d s o that it w i l l permit w i n d s h i e l d w i p i n g without striking the windshield moulding. (4) When the off-glass parking switch is actuated and the motor reverses, the pressure on the end of the coil spring is released, causing it to wind and tighten itself against the crank arm pivot. (5) As the pivot is rotated in the opposite direction, the other end of the coil spring applies pressure against the spring release, causing it to rotate with the parking cam until the parking cam contacts the link stop. When this h a s occurred, the parking cam will h a v e rotated 180Â° s o that t h e cam pivot retaining h o l e is now toward the short e n d a n d in l i n e with the link, resulting in automatically l e n g t h e n i n g the link to permit off-glass parking. (6) As the parking cam reaches the stop, the same action as previously described occurs. The spring release causes the coil spring to expand and allow the crank pivot to turn freely within the coil spring.

Operation of the Parking Switch (1) When the wiper is operating normally, the cam spring rotates beneath the projection on the switch plate and does not come in contact with the nylon cutoff switch plunger. (2) When the wiper is shut off the motor will reverse, causing the cam spring to go under the projection at the bottom of the switch plate, forcing the spring up until the end of its travel is reached, at which time the cam spring pushes against the switch plunger opening the contact points and shutting off the wiper. (3) During this process of reversing the motor, the parking link cams are rotated to lengthen the connecting links so that they will be of sufficient length to provide off-glass parking by the time the cam spring has caused the contact points to open shutting off the wiper. D u e to the design which requires the motor switch cam spring to reverse and slide under the switch plate projection before turning off the switch, the wiper blades will have a natural tendency (when turning off the wiper switch) to start to park, then reverse their direction to the full extent of their far travel, then they park. Removal D u e to restricted room to p r o p e r l y a s s e m b l e the e c c e n t r i c s a t t h e c r a n k a r m link e n d s , it w i l l b e n e c e s s a r y to r e m o v e t h e w i n d s h i e l d w i p e r a s s e m b l y a s a unit w h e n e v e r t h e w i p e r or links a r e to b e s e r v i c e d . Before attempting to r e m o v e t h e w i p e r motor for c o m p l e t e disa s s e m b l y , t h e w i p e r should b e o p e r a t e d a n d then shut off b y disconnecting a t t h e circuit b r e a k e r b e h i n d the d a s h p a n e l control switch or b y turning off t h e ignition k e y . F a i l u r e to o b s e r v e this p r e c a u t i o n will result i n i r r e p a r a b l e d a m a g e to t h e motor switch a n d spring p a r k i n g c a m w h e n t h e switch c o v e r is r e moved. (1) Disconnect wiper motor. (2) Remove radio (if so equipped). (3) Remove right hand fresh air door. (4) Remove the clips that hold the links to the pivot cranks. Clips a r e r e m o v e d by lifting top t a b a n d sliding s i d e w a y s out of e n g a g e m e n t with the g r o o v e i n the pivot c r a n k p i n . (5) Remove brass spacing washer. (6) Slip end of link containing nylon ball bushing off pivot crank pin. (7) Remove the three windshield wiper bracket to dash panel retaining nuts and remove wiper motor bracket and links a s an assembly. A thick r u b b e r gasket is assembled between the motor bracket and the dash panel to reduce noise.

ELECTRICAL-WINDSHIELD WIPERS Disassembly of Windshield Wiper Links

(1) With the motor and link assembly laying on a clean bench, remove the clip that holds the left hand link to the crank arm. (2) Remove the bevel washers. (3) Carefully remove the link. T h e pivot e n d of the link is p r o v i d e d with a stop to p r e v e n t t h e w i p e r s from g o i n g o v e r the c e n t e r a n d l o c k i n g . (4) Remove the parking cam. (5) Remove the spring release. (6) Remove the coil spring around the pin by spreading the spring ends apart. S p r e a d i n g t h e spring e n d s will c a u s e the spring to e x p a n d , a l l o w i n g it to b e r e m o v e d from t h e shaft. (7) Remove the spring washer. T h e right h a n d link is disassembled in the same manner after removing the crank arm to crank lever retaining nut and removing the brass spacing washers between the link and the crank arm and crank lever. Having removed the links, to clean the switch contacts, should it be reguired, or replace the wiper switch or spring cam, disassembly of the wiper motor can be accomplished as follows: (1) Remove the switch cover. (2) Remove the switch plate. S h o u l d a n attempt b e m a d e to disassemble the switch w h i l e t h e w i p e r is in the p a r k e d position, t h e c a m spring w o u l d b e u n d e r t h e projection a t the bottom of the switch p l a t e , a n d extreme force w o u l d b e r e q u i r e d to disassemble it, resulting i n d a m a g e to t h e switch a n d c a m spring. (3) Observe the position of the cam spring, then remove it. Further disassembly of the wiper, if required, is accomplished in the same manner as other wipers of the single gear box type. Reassembly of Motor Switch

(1) Make sure gear box contains lubricant, then install the parking switch cam spring so that it will engage with the nylon drive gear and the top end of the spring points in the same direction as the crank arm. (2) Install motor switch plate. (3) Install switch cover. ReassembĂŹy of Windshield Wiper Link

(1) Install spring Washer, concave surface towards the crank arm. (2) Compress ends; of crank pivot coil spring to expand, then install o:i the pivot. Springs are interchangeable. (3) Install spring release. S p r i n g r e l e a s e s a r e interchangeable. (4) Install parking cam so that it will index with the spring release and eijigage the ends of the spring between the spring release and parking cam in the open-

ings at the point of index. CAUTION: While t h e parking cam is interchangeable, the face of the cam marked "L" must be away from the link when installed on the left link, while the face of the cam marked "R" must be away from the link when installed on the right link. Or when assembling to the left link, both the "L" on the left crank and on the parking cam should be seen. This is also true for the right link; both the "R" on the crank and on the parking cam should be seen. (5) Install spring washer, convex surface towards the cam assembly. (6) Install link arm with the stop projection on the link arms toward the cam assembly. (7) Install retaining bolt and nut. Reassemble left link and cam assembly to crank lever pivot in the same manner, locking in place with a clip instead of the retaining bolt. S h o u l d w i n d s h i e l d pivot r e p l a c e m e n t b e n e c e s s a r y , it should b e a c c o m p l i s h e d i n t h e following m a n n e r vrhile the windshield w i p e r a s s e m b l y is r e m o v e d : (1) Remove the wiper blade. (2) From under the dash, remove the two pivot retaining bolts and bellville washers. Retaining p l a t e should d r o p off w h e n bolts a r e r e m o v e d . (3) Remove the pivot from the outside and remove the gasket. Installing New Pivot

(1) Install new gasket. (2) Install pivot. (3) Install pivot retaining plate under dash. (4) Install bellville washers on cap screws so that the convex surface is against the head of the bolt. T h e use of, a n d p r o p e r installation of, t h e b e l l v i l l e w a s h e r s is important a s these w a s h e r s c a n t a k e u p to . 0 1 5 slack, a s t h e bolt torque is r e d u c e d by the g a s k e t taking a p e r m a n e n t set. (5) Install retaining bolts and washers and torque to 75 inch-pounds torque. This is important to assure proper tension on the bellville washers and to reduce the possibility of a water leak occurring at that point. (6) Reinstall wiper blade. Reinstallation of Windshield Wiper Motor Bracket and Link Assembly

(1) Work links up behind the dash panel and attach to the pivot crank pins. (2) Install the brass spacing washer. (3) Install lock clips on the pivot crank pins. (4) Make sure the wiper bracket to the dash panel rubber gasket is in place, then install windshield wiper motor and bracket assembly. (5) Torque retaining nuts to 25 inch-pounds torque. CAUTION: Do not overtighten, causing rub-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

84 H L G

-16 BLUE V*

HEATER MOTOR

VARIABLE SPEED WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH

VARIABLE SPEED WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR HEATER SWITCH

16 BLACK-WHITE STRIPE

STARTER AND IGNITION SWITCH

TO FUEL GAUGE TOP LIFT MOTOR (CONVERTIBLE ONLY)

SINGLE SPEED WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH WITH CIRCUIT BREAKER

SINGLE SPEED WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR

10 DARKGREEN -10 BLACK

TERMINAL BLOCK16 BLACK WHITE STRIPE 12 RED WHITE STRIPE. 4 B BLACK HEADLIGHT SWITCH

RED· TOP LIFT SWITCH AND 25 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER (CONVERTIBLE ONLY)

57x512

Fig. 2—Windshield Wiper, Heater and Top Wiring Diagram

ber gasket to be excessively compressed as it will permit transmission of wiper noise. (6) Reinstall fresh air door and adjust. (7) Adjust wiper parking position, if necessary, by moving the cam adjustment lever which sticks out of the switch cover.

(8) Connect up the four lead wires from the wiper motor to the wiper control switch, as shown in Figure 2. Blue wire to the "P" terminal on the control switch. Black wire to the "A" terminal on the control switch. Red wire to the "Fl" terminal on the control switch. Yellow wire to the "F2" terminal on the control switch. The hot lead wire is attached to the circuit breaker.

POWER WINDOWS CONTENTS Par.

Page

—

Installation of Window Lift

Removal of Window lift

—

SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N General Information

Wiring Diagram—Power Windows

ELECTRICAL-POWER WINDOWS

Defective switch in master switch group Burned out motor Defective circuit breakers Broken control wires Break in wire from starter solenoid to circuit breaker Defective switch Control wire grounded Window adjusted too tight Short in electricc 1 system Lead wires not connected to proper terminals on switch Motor leads reversed Broken counter balance spring on regulator

Window Rises Slowly and Lowers Rapidly

Window Operates in Wrong Direction By Either Individual Door Switch Or Master Switch

Master Switch Operates Window In Wrong Direction

Circuit Breaker "Clicks" On and OfF But Window Does Not Operate

Window Operates In One Direction Only From Either the Master Switch or Individual Door Switch

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Window Cannot Be Operated From Either Master or Individual Door Switch

CONDITIONS M ^ >

Windows Will Not Operate From Master Switch But Can Be Operated By Individual Door Switches

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • • • •

• • •

• • • • • •

• • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION There are three component parts in the basic circuit: a circuit breaker, a motor, and a switch. The relay has been eliminated and the switch now carries the full amperage load of the motor. Power window lift circuits are protected by a circuit breaker which is located behind the left front kick panel. In wiring, the circuit breaker is fed from the battery solenoid by a #10 cable and paralleled with a brass jumper. From the circuit breaker to door switches and motors a # 16 harness on the 4 Door (#12 on Spec. Club Coupe and Conv. Coupe) (superflex) is used. The wiring harness is clipped to the door hinges and is looped sufficiently to accommodate opening and closing of doors. Should harness be removed for any reason it should be looped sufficiently upon reinstalling to permit opening and closing of doors. CAUTION: Do not allow an excessive loop as this will cause harness to take a permanent set which in turn will cause wires to bend at this point and eventually break. There are 4 switches used to control the window lifts, a master switch which is located on the left front door and one individual switch for each of the windows.

The master switch on the left front door is actually a group of switches of the same type as those used on each door. Each switch of the master switch group is hooked in parallel with the window switch it controls. Each window switch is connected so that when the switch lever is pushed up, the window is raised, and, when the switch lever is pushed down, the window is lowered. The window can be stopped in any position by releasing the switch lever. The wiring connections on all switches are set screws. There is one wire from the circuit breaker to the master switch and 8 wires (2 each) leaving the master switch to the doors. The wires leaving the master switch are connected directly to the motors. The individual switches on the right side are connected directly to the circuit breaker. The individual switch on the left side is connected to the circuit breaker through the master switch. The harness for the right rear door is carried along back of the front seat on the floor pan. The harness for the right front door is carried across the firewall. The motor requires no lubrication. In the motor wiring, the top lead (one nearest coupling) is used to raise the window and the bottom lead to lower the window. The normal 12 volt amperage draw when operating window is 13 amperes, this will vary with voltage.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

RIGHT FRONT DOOR MOTOR

RIGHT FRONT DOOR SWITCH

RIGHT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER WINDOW LIFT SWITCH RIGHT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER WINDOW LIFT MOTOR

WINDOW LIFT CIRCUIT BREAKER 20 AMPERES

LEFT FRONT DOOR MOTOR

TO BATTERY POST OF STARTER SOLENOID OR RELAY

SYM. U-3 U-2 U-l

D-3 D-2 D-1 D B-3 B-2 B-1 B

COLOR GRAY ORANGE PINK DK. BLUE DK. GREEN RED VIOLET BROWN WHITE BLACK YELLOW TAN

SIZE STRIPE SIZE NONE 12 14 NONE 12 14 NONE 14 14 NONE 14 14 NONE 12 14 NONE 12 14 NONE 14 14 NONE 14 14 NONE 12 14 NONE 12 14 NONE 14 14 12 WHITE 12 SP. 4 4 DOOR 4 DR. SUB. CLUB SED.

STRIPE BLACK BLACK NONE NONE WHITE WHITE NONE NONE BLACK NONE NONE WHITE DR.

LEFT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER WINDOW LIFT MOTOR-*-

SIZE STRIPE NONE 14 NONE 14 BLACK 12 NONE 14 NONE 14 NONE 14 WHITE 12 NONE 14 NONE 14 NONE 14 BLACK 12 WHITE 12 SP. CL. CPE. CONV. CPE.

LEFT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER WINDOW LIFT SWITCH

LEFT FRONT DOOR MASTER SWITCH

57x515

Fig. 1—Wiring Diagram—Power Windows

REMOVAL OF W I N D O W LIFT

(1) Disconnect battery. (2) Remove garnish moulding. (3) Remove door handle control and escutcheon plate. (4) Remove arm rest and window lift control switch. (5) Remove door trim panel. (6) Remove wires from motor. (7) Remove clips from regulator pins holding lower glass channel. (8) Raise glass manually and prop the glass. Raise glass before loosening bolts so that it is out of the working area. (9) Remove the four regulator to door attaching bolts. (10) Remove the pivot guide retaining pin. (11) Lower motor and regulator assembly out through

opening in the door. CAUTION: If gear box is to be replaced, remove regulator counter balace spring before removing. The counter balance spring has approximately 220 degrees of wrap, use large pair of pliers when removing. Failure to remove spring before disassembly of gear box can result in personal injury. The gear box which is replaced as an assembly, consists of a worm and worm gear. The worm gear drives a pinion which is meshed with the regulator sec-

tor gear. The gear box is lubricated at the time of assembly and should not require any further lubrication. Use Lubriplate 105 light weight on all other movable parts. 2.

INSTALLATION OF WINDOW LIFT

(1) Place motor and regulator assembly through opening in door. (2) Insert intermediate pivot arm pin into guide inside of door shell —THERE IS NO CLIP. (3) Install the four regulator attaching bolts finger

tight. After installing the regulator retaining bolts check to s e e that the intermediate pivot arm did not slip out of the guide during installation. This c a n h a p p e n very easily. (4) Remove window prop, lower glass and insert control arms into glass channel, using a leather washer on each side of channel, secure with clip. Control arms c a n b e inserted into glass channel only w h e n glass is in lowered position. (5) Connect wires to motor and connect battery. (6) Operate window up and down several times to help align glass in the channel, then stop window halfway and tighten the four regulator attaching bolts. (7) Check glass for alignment. Connect an ammeter 'into electrical circuit and operate window. The am-

ELECTRICAL-POWER SEATS meter reading should be constant without fluctuation. (Coupes and Sedans 13 amperes.) (Hardtops and Convertible rear quarter 13 amperes.) If reading fluctuates, it is an indication there is a bind either in glass or

linkage. Down stop should be adjusted so window is flush with garnish molding. (8) Replace trim panel, garnish molding and other parts in reverse order a s done during removal.

POWER SEATS CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

General Information

Page

—

Installation of Front Seat Assembly and Adjuster

Removal of Front Seat Assembly and Adjuster

—

Wiring Diagram (Power Seats)

SERVICE INFORMATION GENERAL INFORMATION The power seat can be moved six ways—forward, backward, upward, downward and tilt. The horizontal travel is five inches and horizontal plane of seat track is inclined eleven degrees. The vertical travel is 2 inches at front and 2 inches at rear. The available tilt is 8° forward and 7½° rearward from neutral. Operation The motor operates a gear drive train which supplies power to the slave units, located in the seat tracks, through flexible cables (Refer to Figure 1). The control switch is on the left side of the front seat and is wired through a relay to a 40 ampere circuit breaker, located next to the window lift circuit breaker behind the left front kick panel. The wire from the starter solenoid (Figure 2) supplies power to the circuit breaker. On cars equipped with electric window lifts, power is supplied by a brass jumper parallel with the window left circuit breakers. SLAVE UNIT ASSEMBLY SEAT TRACK SEAT GUIDE FLEXIBLE CABLE ASSEMBLIES

MOTOR RELAY ASSEMBLY DRIVE ASSEMBLY

MOTOR ASSEMBLY

TO SWITCH

SOLENOID CLUTCH COIL ASSEMBLY FRONT OF CAR BATTERY FEED TO CIRCUIT BREAKER 57x3ìó

Fig. 1—Power Unit of Power Seat Assembly

Power is supplied to the relay from the circuit breaker. Six wires go to the switch. One is used for power, two for motor field current (which also actuates the relay for motor armature current) and three wires attach to solenoids controlling the movement of the front riser, rear riser and horizontal movement. CAUTION: The wire harness should be clipped securely so wires will not be pinched when track is in the extreme forward position. The right and left tracks are each replaced as an assembly only. They cannot be adjusted and are not interchangeable.

1. FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTER-REMOVAL (1) Disconnect the battery. (2) Remove the front seat cushion (four door only). (3) Disconnect the control wires at the switch. (4) Remove the front seat assembly. On Hard-Top Models, remove the front seat and cushion as an assembly. (5) Disconnect the seat adjuster battery wire at circuit breaker in cowl. (6) Remove the seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the adjuster. Note: Do not damage the flexible tubing during removal.

FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTER-INSTALLATION

(1) Install the adjuster and stud nuts. (2) Connect the seat adjuster battery wire to circuit breaker in cowl. Form a loop in the wires from the relay to the clip on the floor for horizontal travel. (3) Install the front seat assembly. (4) Connect the control wires to the switch and install the front seat cushion of four-door models. Connect the battery.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

88 14 RED ' l 8 GREEN

18 BROWN

16 BLUE

FRONT OF CAR

'WIRING HARNESS

T¯

18 YELLOW

18 WHITE

18 YELLOWCLUTCH SOLENOID ASSEMBLY

SIX-WAY SEAT ADJUSTER SWITCH (AS VIEWED FROM REAR)

SIX-WAY SEAT ADJUSTER SWITCH-

BATTERY

4 B BLACK

10 BLACK •

40 AMPERE CIRCUIT BREAKER (INNER COWL PANEL) STARTER RELAY OR STARTER S O L E N O I D

RELAY ASSEMBLY57x516

Fig. 2—Wiring Diagram (Power Seat)

RADIO-HEATER CONTENTS RADIO SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N General Information

Par.

Page

—

Installation Diagram (Model 624)

—

Installation Diagram (Models 918—9I8HR)

—

Installation Diagram (Model 845)

—

Interference Elimination

Pushbutton Adjustment (Models 918—9I8HR)

Radio Antenna Circuit Capacitance Balancing

Installation

ELECTRICAL-RADIO AND HEATER

Radio not turned on; automobile ignition switch must also be on before radio will operate Radio fuse located on "A" lead blown or missing Antenna collapsed, defective or disconnected Speaker leads disconnected or broken, pinched and shorted out Car battery voltage low External speaker shorting bar (used on models 918-918HR) missing or loose Defective tube or tubes Highway Hi-Fi shorting bar (used on model 918HR missing or loose Antenna trimmer out oí adjustment Housing of radio not securely grounded to car Car battery incorrectly installed Poor "A" lead connection Generator capacitor missing or defective Voltage regulator capacitor missing or defective Ignition coil capacitor missing or defective Antenna loose Spark plug or coil high tension wires loose or disconnected Push button incorrectly set-up Dial light lead not connected (not used on model 624) Dial light bulb defective Antenna Defective 12AL8 tube Record player switch in "phono" position

Dial Pointer Sweeps Slowly to One End and Stops— (Models 918-918HR)

Radio Keeps Searching Back and Forth—Does Not Stop On Any Station— (Models 9I8¯9I8HR)

Tuner Sweeps With Search Button Depressed But Stops When Search Button Is Released— (Models 918 - 918HR)

Radio Stops Only on Strong Stations When Distant Search Button Is Depressed (Models 9I8¯9I8HR)

Dial Scale Pointer Sweeps Very Slowly Across The Dial Scale (Models 918 - 918HR)

Dial Scale Not Illuminated

Motor Noise In Radio

Weak Radio Operation

POSSIBLE CAUSES • ,

Radio Dead

CONDITIONS " ^

Poor Pushbutton Reception

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • •

•

• • • •

•

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • •

SERVICE INFORMATION GENERAL INFORMATION Dodge offers a choice of three transistor powered models in radios. They are: Models 918 and 918H, Electro Touch-Tuner; Model 845 Music Master and Model 624 Velvetone. The output tubes, the rectifier tube, the vibrator, and

the power supply transformer have all been eliminated by the use of the transistor. There is only one transistor in each receiver, the balance of the circuit functions being performed by tubes operating directly from the 12 volt car battery. The transistor is able to deliver comparatively large

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL SPKR GRILLE MTG SCREW

ANTENNA R£CEPTACL£

»O MTGSTUO

LOCKNUT, RADIO TOBRKTMTG(2)

BRACKET, RADIO MTG, RIGHT

ANTLNNA COMPf NSATOR ADJ, AT1400KC

INSTRUMENT PANEL REINFORCEMENT*

Fig. 1 — Installation Diagram (Model 624) .1

¯Tii»

AWÎENNA

RAOIOBRKTMTGÍ2)

RECEPTACLE

"5C·¢NUT, RADIO TOBRKTMTGØ

ANTENNA LEAD-IN

BRACKET. RADIO MT6, RIGHT

ÍÎ¾TRUWENT PANEL REINFORC€Ä¢N?

57x468

Fig. 2—Installation Diagram (Model 845)

I HIGHWAY HI-FI SOCKET

REAR SEAT SPEAKER SOCKET

INSTRUMENT PANEL SUPPORT BRACKET (Located on f i n wall behind glove comoartment)

n > I 70 >

Õ >

DIAL LIGHT LEAD Connect to insulated female connector (orange! In wiring harness 'PART OF CAR

57x469

RUNIT CONNECTING PLUG LOCKSCREW, RADIOBRKTMTG(2Ì

RADIO ASSEMBLY

FOOT CONTROL RECEPTACLE

STUD, RADIO TO ANTENNA MTG BRACKET COMPENSATOR ADJ AT 1400 KC

LOCKNUT, RADIO TO BRKT MTG (2)

Fig. 3—Installation Diagram (Models 918-918HR)

POWER UNIT INSTRUMENT PANEL REINFORCEMENT* MTG BRACKET NUT

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

amounts of power to the loud speaker with only the 12-volts of the battery applied to its circuit. Formerly the power supply of the radio supplied approximately 250 to 300 volts to the tubes in order to get satisfactory power output. This high voltage was also applied to the balance of the radio circuits. The service life of the car radio is materially improved by the use of the transistor. The transistor itself, when properly protected, electrically and thermally, has an almost indefinite service life. Whether testing these radios in the car or on the bench, the proper polarity should always be observed with the negative being at ground potential. In the event that the polarity is reversed and the radio is left connected for a long period of time, it is possible for the transistor to be destroyed. In the search receivers (models 918-918HR). if the polarity is reversed the receiver will search to the end of the dial scale and there it will stop. It will be unable to reverse its direction of searching unless the proper polarity is observed. At either end of the dial scale (models 918-918HR) there are two search buttons. The first is designated as the local button and the second, the distance button. Pressing the local button automatically establishes a low searching sensitivity so that only strong metropolitan stations will be selected. This button would make it possible to select all of the stronger stations in the immediate area. As the button is depressed the radio will leave the station to which it was formerly tuned and will continue to search until it finds the next stronger station. If this button is depressed a second time, the receiver will repeat this performance and will continue to search for the next strong station on the radio dial. When it reaches the end of the dial scale it will automatically reverse and start searching for the next strong signal station as it returns down the dial scale. Pressing the distance button will automatically establish a high searching sensitivity so that the set will tune in all listenable stations. In the event that the driver is on a trip and has no knowledge of the stations which are available to him in the area, by pressing either the local or the distance search button he can select the stronger or all listenable stations respectively. The searching sensitivity of the receiver is automatically determined when the operator pushes either search button of his selection. 1.

(4) Make electrical connections, as shown in Figures 1,2 or 3. (5) With antenna fully extended, adjust antenna trimmer for maximum volume when tuned to a station (around 1400 KC), as described in Paragraph 3. This is

to be done after suppression equipment has been installed. In radios which have rear seat speakers and Hi-Way Hi-Fi sockets available and in which the accessory units are not installed, there is a shorting bar between two terminals on each socket. In the event that either of these shorting bars is missing, the radio will be completely inoperative. In checking to see whether a receiver is inoperative, first check to determine if either of these shorting bars is missing before removing a radio for service. 2. INTERFERENCE ELIMINATION Install suppression equipment, as shown in Figures 4, 5 and 6.

GENERATOR NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER

M O U N T UNDER GROUND LEAD SCREW DO NQT CONNECT TO FIELD TERMINAL

CONNECT T O 'A' ARMATURE TERMINAL

54x613

Fig. 4â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Generator Condenser Installation COIL MOUNTING BRACKET CLAMP BOLT

INSTALLATION

Refer to Figures 1, 2 or 3 (depending on model radio) and proceed as follows: (1) Install antenna (see instructions in antenna kit). (2) Install speaker assembly. (3) Install radio assembly.

PRIMARY POST

55x68

. 5â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Ignition Coil Condenser Installation

ELECTRICAL-RADIO A N D HEATER C I V I L DEFENSE SYMBOLS 640 KC 1240 KC

REGULATOR

ON-OFF & VOLUME CONTROL

Fig. 9—Operating Controls (Model 624) MOUNTING SCREW

CONDENSOR

RADIO ANTENNA CIRCUIT CAPACITANCE BALANCING The antenna trimmer receives its original adjustment at the time the set is manufactured; however, a trimmer is provided on the radio for a final adjustment so that the radio is matched exactly to the specific antenna used in each automobile. Generally a quarter of a turn of this trimmer in either direction will match the antenna to the radio. The antenna trimmer is adjusted by tuning the radio to the general area of 1400 K.C. on the dial— preferably not on a station—tune it off station and turn up the volume until a hissing sound is heard. Then, with the antenna fully extended, the antenna trimmer should be turned first one way and then the other, very slowly, until it is adjusted for the maximum amount of hiss that can be detected coming from the loud speaker. The same procedure may be followed using a very weak station near 1400 KC and adjusting the trimmer for maximum signal volume. When this hiss sound is at maximum or the station signal volume is greatest, the antenna trimmer is properly adjusted and should be left at that given position.

CAUTION CONNECT TO REGULATOR BATTERY TERMINAL ONLY

57x460

Fig. 6—Voltage Regulator Capacitor Installation

CIVIL DEFENSE SYMBOLS I KC 1240 KC

PUSHBUTTON UNLOCKING DETAIL SHOWING PUSHBUTTON PULLED OUT

57x466

Fig. 7—Operating Controls (Model 918)

C I V I L DEFENSE SYMBOLS 640 KC 1240 KC

5'-B°T8-IO.IZ - 1 4 . IE ON-OFF & VOLUME CONTROL

I PUSHBUTTONS

TUNING CONTROL

PUSHBUTTON UNLOCKING DETAIL SHOWING PUSHBUTTON PULLED OUT.

57x465 Fig. 8—Operating Controls (Model 845)

4. PUSHBUTTON ADJUSTMENT (Models 918-918 HR, and 845) The push buttons, Figures 7 and 8, should be pulled directly forward toward the operator until it is unlocked. The radio is then tuned using the manual tuning knob to the desired station and the push button is depressed, completely locking that particular station in. Each time the radio will tune to the selected station when that particular button is depressed. After the button has been set up, however, it would be well to double check the manual tuning knob to make certain that the push button has selected the station accurately and is not slightly mistuned. If, when the button is depressed, the station is not tuned in accurately enough so that it will be perfectly clear and give maximum volume, then the button should be unlocked, as described previously, and the set more accurately tuned, using the manual tuning knob.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

HEATER SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

General Information Defrosting Temperature Control Operating Controls Summer Ventilation

— 1 2 3 4

Page 94 94 94 95 95

HEATER SERVICE INFORMATION GENERAL INFORMATION

Outside air is introduced into the system through a permanently open vent (air intake) in the top of the cowl section, as shown in Figure 1. The air then passes through a plenum chamber and raintrap arrangement into the heating core which is mounted vertically at the dash blower which is attached to the dash panel. A completion of the air circuit is made when the blower forces heated air into the car through a distribution duct. A damper in the distribution duct diverts the air to the windshield for defrosting or to the floor area for general heating. A separate fan for defrosting is not required.

Heated or unheated air is distributed to the windshield through two circular-louvered grilles installed in the top surface of the instrument panel, as shown in Figure 2. The defrosting air from the grilles covers the entire windshield and the grilles can be rotated so that air can be concentrated more heavily on certain areas of the windshield, if desired. The defrosting air system is complete in itself and does not depend on body members for air conveyance or directing.

DEFROSTING

2. TEMPERATURE CONTROL The temperature of the car is controlled through a

HEATER HOUSING AND INSULATION ASSEMBLY

TO WATER PUMP HEATER CORE ASSEMBLY

FAN MOTOR VENT TUBE

WATER VALVE SEAL SEAL RETAINER TO HEATER CORE

BLOWER ASSEMBLY • r WATER SOURCE

Fig. 1—Heater Installation (.Engine biae¿

57x521

ELECTRICAL-RADIO A N D HEATER

OUTLET LOUVRE HEATER DEFLECTOR OUTLET BEZEL A N D RETAINER • P P ^ P : .

RAIN TRAP

| |

PLENUM CHAMBER FRESH AIR DOOR FRAME WATER CONTROL VALVE DUCT DOOR (INSIDE DUCT). DEFLECTOR OUTLET DUCT-LEFT

DEFLECTOR OUTLET DUCT-RIGHT

FRESH AIR DOOR

DIST. DUCT

DAMPER CONTROL CABLE

HEATER CONTROL KICKPAD OUTLET (OPTIONAL)

FRESH AIR DOOR FOOT PEDAL

DUCT DOOR A N D WATER CONTROL VALVE CONTROL CABLES

DEFLECTOR CONTROL BLOWER SWITCH

57x522 Fig. 2—Heater Installation (Driver Side)

modulating water valve (Figure 2) which automatically maintains the heater discharge air temperature at a pre-selected level. The blower acts as a "mixer" and provides air of a homogeneous temperature for the automatic temperature valve to sense and act upon. 3.

OPERATING CONTROLS

A concentric switch arrangement controls the blower speed and the defroster. The inner knob regulates the blower through two speeds which are obtained by internal wiring in the motor. The outer control operates the defroster damper. The damper position determines the ratio of air being delivered to the windshield for defrosting and to the floor for heating. An adequate supply of warm air is always available for floor heating even when extreme defrosting conditions are experienced. A slide lever opens the heater air circuit and also regulates the temperature of the discharge air. In the

"OFF" position, the air damper is closed so that no air will pass through the system. Moving the lever from "OFF" to "ON" opens the air damper and further moving of the lever to right through the "WARMER" zone increases the air temperature by opening the water flow valve. The summer ventilation door is controlled by a handfoot pedal just above and to the right of the accelerator pedal. This pedal must be pushed to close the ventilation door an pulled to open it. The ventilation door must be closed for effective heating performance. 4.

SUMMER VENTILATION

Summer ventilation is accomplished through a door in the back of the plenum chamber, as shown in Figure 2. When the door is opened, outside air flows from the intake grille through a raintrap and directly into the car. The ventilation door is controlled manually by a foot or hand pedal.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE SECTION CONTENTS RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D500 6 CYLINDER ENGINE

Par. Page — —

96 149

RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO V - 8 ENGINES CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Camshaft and Bearing Shell Installation Checking Connecting Rod Bearing Shell Clearance Checking Cylinder Bores Checking Main Bearing Clearance Checking the Timing Chain for Stretch Checking the Valve Timing Cleaning the Hydraulic Tappets Connecting Rod Alignment Crankcase Ventilation Cylinder Block Inspection Cylinder Head Disassembly Cylinder Head Inspection Distributor Basic Timing Engine Disassembly , Engine Installation Fitting Pistons Fitting Piston Pins Fitting Piston Rings General Information Honing Cylinder Bores Hydraulic Tappets Installing Connecting Rods, Pistons and Rings in the Cylinder Block Installing the Crankshaft Pulley and Hub Installing the Oil Pump Installing Water Pump Housing and Water Pump Main Bearing Shell Installation Oil Pump Inspection Preliminary to Checking Hydraulic Tappets (In the Car) Reaming Valve Guides and Installing Valves with Oversize Stems Reboring Cylinders Refacing Valves and Seats Relief Valve Spring Chart Removal and Installation of the Camshaft Removal and Installation of the Chain Case Cover Oil Seal (Engine in Vehicle) Removal and Installation of Crankshaft Removal and Installation of Cylinder Heads Removal and Installation of the Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Removal and Installation of Engine Oil Pan Removal and Installation of Hydraulic Tappet (In the Car) Removing and Installing the Oil Pump Removing and Installing of Upper Main Bearing Shells Replacing Connecting Rod Bearing Shells Replacing the Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Rocker Arm Assemblies

7 17 4 9 11 33 21 16 39 3 23 24 32 2 34 13 15 14 — 5 40 18 29 19 30 8 36 41 25 6 26 — 53 46 52 45 31 47 43 48 49 51 50 28

115 123 114 116 118 138 125 122 143 114 126 127 138 112 140 120 121 121 106 115 143 124 137 124 138 116 141 143 129 115 130 142 149 147 149 146 138 147 144 148 148 149 148 134

ENGINE-SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N - ( C o n t ¡ n u e d ) Servicing the Cylinder Heads Servicing the Hydraulic Tappets Servicing the Oil Pressure Relief Valve Servicing the Oil Pump Servicing the Pistons and Rings Servicing the V-8 Engines Shunt Type Oil Filter Tappet Noises Testing the Hydraulic Tappet Testing Valve Springs TimingGear and Chain Installation

Par.

Page

44 20 37 35 12 1 38 42 22 27 10

146 125 142 141 120 112 143 143 126 131 117

Weak Battery Overheated engine Low or uneven compression Corroded or loose battery terminals Cracked distributor cap Broken or loose ignition wires Dirty or corroded contact points Defective ignition switch Moisture and ignition wires, plugs or cap Fouled spark plugs Stuck valves Improper spark plug gap Incorrect timing (ignition) Damaged or worn rotor Dirt or water in fuel system Ice in fuel system Carburetor flooded Incorrect fuel level (carburetor) Insufficient fuel supply Defective fuel pump Vapor lock Sticking choke Defective starting motor or solenoid Defective neutral switch Idle speed set too low Needle valve and seat stuck (carb.) Idle mixture needles too rich or lean Leak in intake manifold gaskets Leak in distributor vacuum line Leak in carburetor mounting gaskets Worn accelerator pump Improper choke adjustment

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Engine Misses at High Speed

Engine Lopes or Misses

Engine Has No Power

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Engine Stalls

CONDITIONS B ^ »

Engine Will Not Start

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS (All Models)

1 1 • • • •

•

• • í > >

• •

•

• •

•

• •

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DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Carburetor icing Excessive pressure (air conditioning) Distributor advance not operating Defective or weak coil or condenser Exhaust system restricted Incorrect tappet clearance (mechanical) Burned valves Incorrect type of fuel Hydraulic tappet pump up (high speed) Excessive play in distributor shaft Weak spring in contact points Worn distributor cam lobes Insufficient point dwell Weak valve springs Valves sticking when hot Worn camshaft lobes Valve timing incorrect Blown cylinder head gasket Flow control valve not operating (Power Steer) Brakes dragging Tight wheel bearings Clutch slipping Detonation or pre-ignition Stuck regulator valve (PowerFlite) Improper ignition or battery ground Worn timing chain Frozen heat control valve

Outside oil lines Timing chain cover oil seal Rear bearing oil seal Oil pan gaskets Oil pan drain plug Oil filter gasket Rocker cover gaskets Fuel pump or gasket Timing chain cover gasket Camshaft rear bearing oil drain hole plugged Oil level too high Loose rod or main bearings (1)

Engine Misses at High Speed

Engine Lopes

or Misses

Engine Has No Power

• • •

•

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No Pressure Fast Starts or Acceleration

No Oil Pressure at Idle

No Oil Pressure at Start

" ^

Oil Pressure Drop on Deceleration or Downhill

• •

•

No Oil Pressure at Any Speed

•

Oil Pumping at Valve Guides

•

1 > >

• •

Oil Pumping Past Piston Rings

POSSIBLE CAUSES

•

Eternal Oil Leakage

CONDITIONS

Engine

Consumption Due to Lube Oil

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Stalls

CONDITIONS m^>

Engine Will Not Start

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

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ENGINE-SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Too light an oil Excessive high speed driving Overheated engine Ring gaps not staggered Incorrect size of rings Rings out of round Cylinder heads improperly torqued Rings fitted too tight in piston Carboned up oil rings Return grooves in piston clogged Insufficient piston ring tension (2) Oil rings installed upside down Excessive oil pressure Broken rings Burned piston (3) Scored cylinder walls or rings Excessively worn rings or cylinder walls (4) Worn valve stems or guides Intake valve seals damaged or missing Intake valve inverted (D-500 or 6 cyl.) Poor grade of oil Thin diluted oil Frozen or partially plugged gauge tube Oil gauge inaccurate Excessive rotor end clearance (pump) Oil relief valve stuck open Loose camshaft bearings Plugs loose in ends of rocker shaft Internal oil passage leakage Oil pump body seal ring damaged Oil pump body seal ring missing Blocked oil filter or by-pass Oil level too low Oil suction tube bent Oil suction strainer not adjusted Oil suction strainer plugged Expansion plug loose or missing (oil pump) Air leak in oil pump suction tube Oil pump rotor pin sheared NOTES 1 . 2 . 3 AND 4 (1) Excessive bearing c l e a r a n c e will cause the cylinder walls to be flooded with oil. (2) Common condition after e n g i n e h a s overheated.

•

No Oil Pressure at Any Speed

Oil Pressure Drop on Deceleration or Downhill

•

No Oil Pressure at Idle

No Oil Pressure at Start

Oil Pumping at Valve Guides

Oil Pumping Past Piston Rings

POSSIBLE CAUSES

External Oil Leakage

CONDITIONS H ^ >

No Pressure Fast Starts or Acceleration

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Cont¡nued)

•

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> > > > >

• •

• • • • •

• < • • > > > > >

•

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(3) This condition can be brought about by excessive detonation and pre-ignition. (4) This condition can be traced to one or more of the following: (1) Normal wear.

100

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(2) Failure to k e e p air c l e a n e r s on the carburetor and c r a n k c a s e filler c a p installed a n d serviced. (3) Failure to service the oil filter. (4) Careless filling of the oil p a n by a l l o w i n g dirt or foreign material to fall in. (5) Failure to c l e a n cylinder w a l l s properly after reboring or honing. (6) Failure to prevent grindings a n d stone dust from getting on cylinder w a l l s or prope r l y c l e a n i n g v a l v e ports after grinding seats. (7) Use of rings with h e a v i e r w a l l tension than necessary.

Weak valve springs Worn valve guides Excessive tappet clearance (6 Cyl.) Cocked valve springs or retainers Out-of¯round valve seats Defective valve forgings Excessive engine speeds Detonation or pre-ignition Excessive dry lash of tappet Close tappet clearance (6 Cyl.) Gum formations on stem or guide Eccentric valve face Deposits on valve seats Incorrect width of valve seat Improper valve stem to guide clearance Warped valves Improper cylinder block cooling Exhaust back pressure Improper spark timing Worn tappets or adj. screw (6 Cyl.) Wear in camshaft lobes Excessive run-out of valve seat or face Valve flutter at high speed Improper crankcase ventilation Worn timing chain Cold engine operation due to defective thermostat Rust due to improper storage Poor quality of fuel Poor quality of lubricating oil

Valve Deposits

Broken Valve Springs

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Noisy Valves

CONDITIONS

Burned or Sticking Valves

DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

Broken Valves

SERVICE

(8) Excessive s p e e d i n g of a cold e n g i n e . In addition to the foregoing, m a n y e n g i n e s a r e o v e r h a u l e d for excessive use of oil or smoking without a n y d e g r e e of success, b e c a u s e the actual c a u s e m a y be d u e to a n y one or more of the following: (9) Excessive clearance between valve guide and valve stem. (10) D i a p h r a g m of fuel pump porous. (11) External oil l e a k s . (12) Internal oil l e a k into cooling system. The above covers the most common cause of oil pumping past the rings.

• • •

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• • • • • • • • • •

ENGINE-SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Valve stem wear Sludge in engine Improper lubrication of valve stem Excessive engine idling Rich carburetor setting When diagnosing the cause of valve failure, it must be remembered, that a valve can only transfer its heat to the cylinder block or head through the valve seats, guides and tappets to the cooling system. There is only one basic cause for valve failure and that is the inability of a valve to dissipate its heat into the cooling system. The following information is presented as an aid in diagnosing valve failure and also helps in preventing a reoccurrence. Some of the common conditions which can cause both intake and exhaust valve failure are: (1) Deposit build-up under the head of the valves as well as on the top. This deposit acts as a heat retainer and prevents cooling of the valve in the normal manner. (2) Deposits on the upper part of the valve stems which prevents full seating of the valves. (3) Sludge deposits on the end of the valve and springs will cause the valve to stick, and is caused by poor maintenance of engine oil or filter. Low engine operating temperatures due to inoperative thermostat, or short intermittent engine operation. This latter condition does not allow the engine to reach operating temperature to evaporate the condensation in the crankcase. Another condition, is extreme slow driving of the vehicle which does not allow sufficient crankcase ventilation to remove condensation. (4) Insufficient tappet clearance (mechanical tappets), or operating clearance between tappet plunger and bottom of tappet body (hydraulic tappets). On

hydraulic tappets, this condition is usually caused by excessive grinding and allows the valve stem to extend further out of the head. Check with Tool C-3436. See Engine Section. Sufficient clearance is very important and will insure complete closing of the valves after maximum expansion has taken place. (5) Valve or seats that are not ground concentric with

Valve Deposits

Broken Valve Springs

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Broken Valves

CONDITIONS mþ>

Noisy Valves

DIAGNOSIS-(Cont¡nued) Burned or Sticking Valves

SERVICE

101

• • • • • the valve guide. This can be due to worn refacing equipment. Valve to seat contact should be checked with a film of prussian blue. (6) Improper valve seat width. The maximum permissible width is % 2 inch to ‰ inch minimum. If the seats have been refaced and are wider than specified, they should be narrowed by using a 20° stone on top and a 60° stone at the bottom. (7) Valve and valve seat not refaced to a 45° angle, due to worn or inaccurate equipment. (8) Excessively refaced valves. The distance between the top edge of the valve face and the top of the valve must not be less than ¾ 4 inch. Discard a n y v a l v e that d o e s not meet specifications. (9) Weak valve springs. Springs that fail to pull the valve down and hold it firmly on its seat. (10) Incorrect valve timing. (11) Excessive valve guide wear. This condition will not allow proper cooling and permits oil to be sucked into the intake ports, causing a deposit formation which could lead to valve sticking. (12) Restrictions in the cooling passages around the valve seats caused by excessive scale and rust deposits. This is the result of not using a rust inhibitor in the cooling system. (13) Engine overheating to such a degree that there is insufficient coolant to help dissipate the valve heat.

Conditions Common to Intake Valve Failure (1) Sticking valves. This condition can be brought about by heavy carbon and/or a varnish deposit on the valve stem and head. This material is a gum which has formed in the gasoline as a result of its exposure to air for an extended period. In some cases, where gum and varnish has deposited on the valve stem, it has been known to cause valve sticking while the engine is hot

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

102

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued) and operating under power, yet still giving a good idle when the engine is relatively cool. Cars which have been improperly prepared for extended storage or using fuel from bulk storage that is used very little — such as on a farm or ranch during the winter months — are susceptible to this type of valve sticking. Heavy carbon deposit, as a result of short operation, such as driving the vehicle daily for a prolonged period in and out of the service department to an outside storage space. Rust. This condition results from prolonged storage without proper preparation. (2) Valve pounding or face grooving. This condition is closely associated with valve sticking since it prevents free movement in the guides. This causes uncontrolled seating of the valves which results in ridges being pounded into the face of the valve. This is more noticeable when the valves are running excessively hot due to deposits. When this condition exists, bright polished rings are usually found around the valve stem. This condition can be further aggravated should the fuel contain any corrosive additives.

(3) Valve dishing and valve face grooving. This condition can usually be blamed on an overheating condition which can further be aggravated by, or attributed to pre-ignition or detonation.

Conditions Common to Exhaust Valve Failure (1) Back pressure due to restrictions in the exhaust system, which prevents rapid expulsion of the hot gases. (2) Excessive lean fuel-air mixture which may be caused by one of the following conditions: (3) Carburetion (improper size jets). (4) Air leaking into the intake manifold. (5) Air leak at carburetor mounting or throttle body gaskets. (6) Air leaks in vacuum line for booster brakes, or other vacuum operated accessories. When this type leak occurs, the same valves will fail and will usually be those at, or beyond the point of leakage, (furthest away from the carburetor). Due to the rotating action of the valve, the actual

Broken ring Top ring striking cylinder ridge Broken ring lands Excessive side clearance in groove Piston pin fit too tight or too loose Excessive piston to bore clearance Carbon accumulations in head Collapsed piston skirt Insufficient clearance at top ring land Broken piston, skirt or ring land Misaligned connecting rods Low oil pressure Insufficient oil supply Thin or diluted oil Excessive bearing clearance Eccentric or out-of-round crankpin journal Loose flywheel or torque converter

• • • •

Broken Pistons

Broken Piston Rings

Main Bearing Noise

Piston Noise

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Piston Ring Noise

CONDITIONS w^>

Connecting Rod Noise

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

• • • í í í i í í

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ENGINE-SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

103

Excessive crankshaft end play Sprung crankshaft Wrong type or size of ring Detonation or pre-ignition Undersize pistons Pre-ignition Rings assembled wrong Insufficient gap clearance Uneven cylinder walls due to previous ring breakage Eccentric or tapered cylinders Engine overheating Cracks at expansion slots (excessive engine speed at no load) Water or fuel leakage into combustion chamber Resizing of pistons point of burning on the face of the valve will not necessarily be an indication of the actual point of air leakage into the intake manifold. (7) Advanced ignition timing. (8) Detonation or pre-ignition. (9) Overloading engines, such as, pulling heavy house trailers or luggage trailers. (10) Excessive compression due to improper or planed cylinder heads or improper pistons.

Broken Pistons

Broken Piston Rings

Main Bearing Noise

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Piston Noise

m^> Piston Ring Noise

CONDITIONS

Connecting Rod Noise

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

• • 4 i i í i í

• •

• • • • •

(11) Low grade fuel. (12) The use of fuels to which an engine may be converted, such as butane. (13) Heat control valves stick in the closed position. As a matter of interest, broken or cracked exhaust valve seats, as well as cylinder blocks or heads with cracks radiating out from an exhaust valve port, can be traced to prolonged operation with burned or leaking exhaust valves.

HYDRAULIC TAPPET DIAGNOSIS Starting Noise This is a condition where the tappets are noisy upon starting and remain so for approximately 5 or 10 minutes, or until the engine has reached normal operating temperature. Possible Causes: (1) Engine oil drain-back. If the check valve is open, the oil drains out of the oil galleries and drilled passages into the oil pan. This occurs when the engine is not operating. Upon starting, it is necessary that the oil pump refill the system and at the same time force the air that entered the system through the tappets and out of the engine. Until the oil system has been refilled and all the air bled out, noisy tappets may be experienced. (2) Filter change.

This may cause the same condition as above, and for the same reasons. Air trapped in the lubricating system may require a minimum of 20 to 30 minutes to bleed out. When changing an oil filter element, there is also a possibility that air may be trapped in the cover of the filter and not work out through the tappets until some time later after the tappets have originally quieted. (3) Tappet varnish. The' problem of tappet varnish will not necessarily bother the tappets since they are designed to allow the varnish to build up in areas that do not affect their operation. There is, however, a condition in which a varnish coated tappet can possibly cause trouble, and that is when a valve has been replaced. This repair can effectively change the length of the valve mechanism and thereby allow the tappet plunger to operate in a

104

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

new position in the body which may have a varnish build-up and result in the plunger sticking. (4) AntiÂŻfreeze. Starting noise can also be caused by a gummy deposit which results from leakage of anti-freeze or glycol into the engine oil. When cold, this deposit will be hard, but when hot, it becomes soft and gummy. This, therefore, is another reason excessive tappet noise can be experienced when starting, gradually disappearing as the gummy substance softens and allows the plungers to assume their normal operating positions. If this deposit is permitted to remain, it can eventually cause scuffing of the hydraulic tappet plunger. If glycol contamination is present throughout the engine oiling system, it may be removed as follows providing these instructions are strictly adhered to. CAUTION: The cause for the coolant l e a k into the oiling system should b e found a n d corrected before attempting to c l e a n out the glycol contamination or e l s e t h e condition will r e p e a t itself. (1) The engine should be completely drained, the oil filter removed, and the crankcase filled with a mixture of approximately 3 qts. of SAE-10-W motor oil and 2 qts. of butyl cellosolve. (Note: This material can be otained from a chemical supply company.) The engine should be run at idling speeds for thirty minutes, paying particular attention to the oil p r e s s u r e , and then immediately drained. (2) A flushing solution of approximately 3 qts. of SAE-10-W motor oil and 2 qts. of kerosene should then be circulated in the engine at idling speed for approximately five minutes, and then completely drained. (3) The engine should then be serviced with a new filter element and fresh oil of the grade and classification required. (4) Normal tappet leakdown. This condition occurs on all engines and is due to the normal leakdown of the tappets that remain under valve spring pressure when the engine is shut off. The expulsion of air and duration for quieting these particular tappets is dependent on the clearance to which the tappet plunger body has been fit. The closer the fit, the longer duration.

All Tappets Noisy In cases where all 16 tappets are noisy, it is generally safe to assume that the noise is not the fault of the tappets, but of the oil supply which is inadequate, or into which air has been induced. No a d v a n t a g e c a n be gained by installing 16 new tappets unless they are found to be stuck due to an antifreeze leak. In this case it is imperative that the leak be corrected to prevent a reoccurrence.

Possible Causes: (1) Drain plug out of oil pan. The loss of the drain plug from the oil pan will result in the loss of oil and oil pump pressure. (2) Plug out of the oil pump cover, or out of left rear oil gallery. A plug out of the oil pump cover, will permit the majority of oil from the pump to escape back into the oil pan. This usually shows up a fluctuation or low oil pressure on the gauge. A plug out of the galley causes internal leakage and low oil pressure. (3) Oil strainer stuck up. The floating oil strainer momentarily hanging up and preventing oil from being drawn into the oil pump. When this condition occurs, tappet noise may occur shortly after a turn, stop, or fast acceleration is made. This condition may also be detected by close observation of the oil pressure gauge. (4) Low oil level. Low oil level permits insufficient oil and air to be pumped into the lubricating system. This can be detected by close observation of the oil pressure gauge for fluctuation. (5) Plugged oil screen. A plugged oil screen is generally due to inadequate and/or filter change periods for the type of operation. (6) Oil pump relief valve stuck. When this condition occurs, it usually permits pressure to be normal at higher speeds while falling below normal at low engine speeds or at idle. Normal oil p r e s s u r e for a w a r m e n g i n e a t i d l e i s conside r e d to b e 12 psi or m o r e a t 5 0 0 rpm. (7) A major oil pressure drop below normal. A major oil pressure drop is generally caused by excessive bearing clearance, etc., which permits excessive leakage of hot engine oil and reduces the pressure of oil delivered to the tappets below the minimum required for quiet and proper operation of the tappet. (8) Oil foaming. This is a condition where a large quantity of air bubbles are trapped in the oil, producing a condition of foaming or sudsing (aeration). Since air, unlike oil, is compressible, tappet noise or loss of valve lift will result when the aerated oil enters the tappet. (9) Excessive oil supply. When the oil level is too high in the oil pan, the crankshaft and connecting rods dip into the oil and churn it, causing an aerated condition. (10) Low oil supply. This condition permits the reuse of a small quantity of oil which does not have sufĂicient time to cool and rid itself of the normal air induced into the oil. (11) Air entering the oil pump. This condition can be caused by the oil screen being above the oil level, or, a leak in the suction tube, loose

ENGINE-SERVICE DIAGNOSIS oil pump cover, etc. In all cases air will be drawn into the oil pump and induced into the oil. (12) Plug out of oil pump cover. A plug that is loose or missing out of the oil pump cover, will cause excessive by-passing and aeration of the oil. (13) Prolonged use of engine oil. Where operating conditions are such that the majority of driving is slow, or short and intermittent, not permitting the engine to warm up to operating temperature, it is possible for normal condensation to build up in the crankcase to a point where it will cause the oil to foam. (14) Water from the cooling system leaking into the engine oil. Water from the cooling system leaking into the engine oil will cause excessive oil foaming. (15) Glycol in the engine oil. When glycol leaks into the engine lubrication system, it has a tendency to form a gummy substance which deposits on the engine parts. This substance will normally affect the operation of the hydraulic tappets, first by causing sticking and then gradually causing the tappets to scuff and become increasingly noisy until they reach a point where the plungers will stick com-

105

(5) Face of rocker arm not true. When this condition is present, it will be noted that the rocker arm is making contact on the edge of the valve stem. This can cause a valve cocking condition and cause the valve stem to ride heavy or bind in the guide. (6) Push rods worn, bent or interfering (in head). A worn push rod can be identified by a tit worn on one end. This can be caused by insufficient lubrication. Check holes in arm and rocker shaft.

When installing a new rocker arm, be sure the lubricating oil holes are open.

(1) Excessive dry lash. The term of dry lash refers to the clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm when the tappet is on the heel of the cam lobe and the plunger is bottomed in the tappet body. The normal clearance is .060 to .210 inch, and any lash exceeding .210 inch could cause a

Worn, bent or interfering push rod can be detected by the dry lash test as described above. A bent push rod is generally caused by mishandling and can result in interference in the cylinder head or increased dry lash. The push rod interference in the cylinder head can be caused by inadequate clearance in the push rod passages through the cylinder heads. If this condition is found, it is only necessary to relieve the ends of the hole at the top and bottom. (7) Tight tappet. While rare, this condition occurs where the tappet or the tappet bore is of incorrect size, bell-mouthed or outof-round, causing the tappet to stick in its bore. A condition of this nature is indicated by heavy wear or scuff marks on portions of the side of the tappet body. Unless the tappet bores in the cylinder block are cleaned up, the same condition will occur with replacement tappet. To c h e c k b o r e , slide a n e w t a p p e t in a n d out. If the tappet sticks r e a m b o r e to next oversize a n d install n e w oversize tappet. (8) Stuck hydraulic tappet plungers. This condition is where a tappet plunger is stuck in the tappet body and is unable to compensate for changes in the valve train clearance. Extended e n -

tappet to be noisy. A condition of excessive dry lash usually indicates wear.

gine operation at high speed with this condition existing could cause valve breakage.

pletely. This is the only condition which may require the replacement of all 16 tappets. However, unless the condition is corrected, it will repeat itself. One or More Tappets Noisy Possible Causes:

To determine if improper dry lash is the problem, insert a Âź inch (.125) feeler between the rocker arm and the valve stem; then, start the engine. If the noise has disappeared it is quite possible it was caused by a worn rocker arm or push rod. (2) Broken valve spring. This could be either the inner or outer valve spring on the Super Red Ram engine or a valve spring on the Red Ram engine. (3) Sticking rocker arm. This could be the result of any condition that prevents free movement of the rocker arm on the rocker shaft. (4) Worn rocker arm. This condition is usually due to lack of hardness on the rocker arm or push rod end, and can be detected by the dry lash test as described in step 1 above.

Three basic causes for this condition are: Dirt or

metal chips; glycol in the lubricating oil; and, the mismatching of parts in assembly after cleaning. Varnish build-up around the top of the tappet above the operating range of the plunger is a normal condition, therefore, it should not be confused with a stuck tappet in which the plunger will normally be found stuck below the operating range. (9) Valve stem varnish. Occasionally, this condition may occur where a heavy deposit of varnish has adhered to the valve stem and restricts the movement of the valve in the guide. (10) Faulty tappets. This is caused by conditions that may be inherent in

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

106

the individual tappets, such as, bent wave washers, omitted valve washers, tight plunger caps, improperly fitted retainer, bad flat valve or valve seat, a plugged or missing oil hole in the tappet body or plunger, or a loose plunger to body fit, that causes a fast leakdown under spring pressure. (The latter usually shows up at idle when the oil is hot.) Since the hydraulic tappet is not repairable, only those determined to be faulty should be replaced. The replacement of any tappets other than the individual ones causing the condition, would serve no purpose except to increase the cost of repairs. (11) Worn valve guide. Tappet noise can also be caused by a guide that is worn .015 inch or more, or a valve that is bent to a point where it will actually hang up in the guide. Valves can be bent in the field when attempting to compress a valve spring on an engine with the piston up or near TDC, or by failing to use the proper head holding fixtures C-3209, when the heads have been removed for repairs. (12) Tappet oil feed hole plugged or restricted. In many cases where a tappet has been removed for being noisy, it has been found that the oil feed hole in the tappet or the cylinder block was restricted or plugged. This condition is due to varnish, sludge, dirt or other foreign materials. A g a i n this condition c a n be attributed to infrequent filter element or oil c h a n g e . Before installing any tappet, it is a good policy to run a drill rod or drill into the feed hole to make sure it is open. Be sure no burr is left in the tappet bore after opening with rod. (13) Worn tappet or camshaft lobe. There have been instances when some condition causes scoring to start between the cam lobe and the face of the tappet; in the some manner as any other bearing surface. When this condition occurs, it can result in damage not only to the face of the tappet, but the camshaft lobe as well. This will produce tappet noise and a lack of engine performance. This condition can be determined by measuring the lift of the valve. The lift can be measured by bottoming the tappet in the same way as checking for valve timing

by inserting a shim of sufficient size to take up the dry lash. The lift of the valve can then be measured with a dial indicator and compared with other valves shimmed in the same manner. The normal valve lift should be approximately .360 inch. Since wear of up to .030 inch is permissible, the mileage on the engine as well as the comparison check with other cylinders should be taken into consideration before a decision is reached to replace the camshaft. When tappets and/or camshaft replacement is necessary due to excessive wear, a very thorough cleaning of the lubricating system should be performed or else the particles of worn metal that have deposited out of the oil will cause a reoccurrence of the same trouble.

Intermittent Tappet Noise Possible Causes: (1) Aerating or foaming oil. This is a condition where a large quantity of air bubbles are trapped in the oil, producing a condition of foaming or sudsing (aeration). Since air, unlike oil, is compressible, tappet noise or loss of valve lift will result when the aerated oil enters the tappet. (2) Defective tappets. Although these defects cannot be corrected in the field, and therefore requiring replacement of the individual tappet, the following is presented to point out possible defects: (3) Extremely wide seat on the lapped seat of the tappet plunger. (4) Insufficient check valve travel to compensate for various speeds. (5) Out of round tappet plunger.

Tappet Cleaning When cleaning tappets (if needed), at the time of engine overhaul or valve grind, it should be done in accordance with the procedure descĂąbed in the engine section. Extreme precautions must be taken to be sure that all work be done in clean surroundings and using clean materials. If the cleanliness precautions are not observed, it is more than likely the effort will be wasted, and noisy or stuck tappets can be expected.

RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO V-8 ENGINES General Information

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES

Three different types of engines are available on the new Dodge Swept-Wing cars. The engines are as follows: The Get-Away-Six, the Red Ram, the Super Red Ram, and the D5OO. The Get-Away-Six engine has a 230.2 cubic inch piston displacement; equipped with a dual throat carburetor and is of the "L" head design.

The R e d R a m VÂŻ8 engine has a 325.0 cubic inch piston displacement; equipped with a dual throat carburetor and is of the single rocker shaft design, with polyspherical combustion chambers in the heads. (See Figure 1.) The S u p e r Red Ram V-8 engine also has a 325.0 cubic inch piston displacement; equipped with a four

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO

107

262

Fig. 1— Engine (End Sectional View) Red Ram, Super Red Ram

5lx7î7C

Fig. 2-Eng¡ne (End Sectional View)—(D5OO)

108

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

barrel carburetor (power pack) and dual exhaust. This engine is of the single rocker shaft design, with polyspherical combustion chambers in the heads. (See Figure 1.) The D 5 0 0 engines have a 325.0 cubic inch piston displacement; equipped with a four barrel carburetor, dual exhaust and hydraulic tappets. The D500 engines are of the double rocker shaft design, with hemispherical combustion chambers in the heads. (See Figure 2.) The service procedures covering the Dodge V-8 engines are the same, with the exception of the D500 cylinder heads and valve mechanism. The differences in service procedure covering these two items, will follow the conventional disassembly procedures listed in this section. NEW CAR ENGINES IN STORAGE Lack of proper storage preparation on vehicles which are not delivered immediately will result in the formation of rust on the operating parts of the engines. Such rust formation can, of course, cause excessive piston ring wear, stuck valves, excessive valve guide wear, sticking rocker arms, etc. Conditions produced by this rust and the lack of storage preparation can result in extreme customer dissatisfaction, needless service expense, and also shorter engine life. It is therefore recommended that cars not being delivered immediately, have their engines prepared for storage in the following manner to protect against internal rusting. Storage — (Up to 30 days) Storage of not over thirty days when the car may be driven for moving from one location to another but not in excess of two miles. (1) Add 1 quart of special rust preventive oil to five gallons of gasoline in the fuel tank. (2) Run the engine on this mixture for five minutes at approximately 1000 r.p.m. (No additional treatment will be required when the car is placed back in storage after moving from one location to another.) Storage — (Over 30 days) Storage for over thirty days when the engine will not be started during the storage period: (1) Add 1 quart of special rust preventive oil to each five gallons of gasoline in the tank. (2) Run the engine on this mixture for five minutes at approximately 1000 r.p.m. (3) Drain the fuel tank and operate the engine until the carburetor runs dry. The purpose of this operation is to aid in preventing the carburetor from being con-

taminated with gums that normally form in the gasoline as a direct result of its prolonged exposure to the oxygen in the air. Failure to take this precaution generally results in carburetor flat spots and general owner dissatisfaction with the operation of the vehicle. (4) Remove the spark plugs and pour two ounces of special rust preventive oil into each cylinder. Turn the engine through several revolutions with the starter to distribute the rust preventive oil on the cylinder walls and pistons. Replace the spark plugs. (5) On the V-8 engines, treat as above and, in addition, remove the rocker covers and spray the rocker arms, shafts, valve springs, push rods and valve stems with the special rust preventive oil. B e sure a n d u s e dry air and a clean spray gun. Storage — (90 days and over) For vehicles to be stored more than ninety days, treat as described above. In addition, drain the cooling system and gas tank, then tag the vehicle accordingly so that it will not be started until the coolant has been replaced. The special rust preventive oil to be used, a s described in the above paragraphs, should conform to U.S.A. specification 2-126. The oil may be obtained by this designation through most reputable oil refiners. Engine Red Ram, Super Red Ram and D500 engines are 90° V-8, with lateral valves in the heads. The power plant is mounted at three points in live rubber to prevent sound or vibration being transmitted to the body. (See Figures 1 or 2.)

Cylinder Block (Figure 3) The cylinders are completely encircled by full length water jackets. Cool water from the pump circulates through the cylinder heads, around the exhaust valve into the cylinder heads. The coolant then circulates through the cylinder heads, around the exhaust valve ports and into the return passages of the pump housing, thence to the thermostat for return to the radiator, for recirculation, until the thermostat opens. Drilled passages in the block and cylinder heads carry lubricating oil from the pump to all moving parts of the engine.

Crankshaft The static and dynamic balance of the crankshaft has been achieved by the use of six counterweights, and the end thrust is taken by the number three main bearing. The crankshaft is drilled for full pressure lubrication to the main and connecting rod bearings. A portion of the rear main bearing journal carries a diagonal knurled surface, extending completely around the journal. This knurled surface, shown in Figure 4, in conjunction with

109

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO

OIL PRESSURE PASSAGES TO ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLIES

LEFT BANK CYLINDERS ì-3-5-7

NO. 1 CYLINDER '

DISTRIBUTOR MOUNTING PAD

WATER INLET PASSAGE

w-«^ Oll

LEVEL

INDICATOR HOLE

OIL PRESSURE GAUGE TUBE HOLE TAPPET CHAMBER

MAIN OIL GALLERIES

OIL FILTER TUBE HOLE WATER INLET PASSAGE RIGHT BANK CYLINDERS 2-4-6-8

CYLINDER HEAD LOCATING DOWEL {Ì — EACH END OF BANKS) 54x303A

VALVE TAPPET PUSH ROD HOLES NO. 2 CYLINDER

MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS MAIN BEARING OIL SUPPLY FROM MAIN GALLERY

CYLINDER BLOCK WATER DRAIN COCK HOLE (1 EACH SIDE)

OIL PUMP MOUNTING PAD

OIL FILTER MOUNTING PAD

CLUTCH HOUSING LOCATING DOWEL CYLINDER BLOCK CORE HOLE PLUGS

REAR MAIN BEARING CAP

OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT HOLE RIGHT BANK OIL GALLERY CLUTCH HOUSING LOCATING DOWEL LEFT BANK OH GALLERY 51x706A

Fig. 3—Cylinder Block (Typical)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

TORQUE CONVERTER ASSEMBLY REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL SURFACE (HELICALLY GROOVED) MAIN BEARING JOURNALS

TIMING GEAR RING GEAR CRANKSHAFT OIL HOLES CONNECTING ROD BEARING JOURNALS COUNTERWEIGHTS 54x304

OIL HOLE

Fig. 4â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Crankshaft and Torque Converter Assembly

the rear main bearing oil seal, helps to eliminate the possibility of oil leakage at this point.

Camshaft and Valve Mechanism The camshaft is supported by five replaceable steelbacked bearing shells and is driven by a short, sturdy, silent timing chain. A spiral gear cast integrally with the camshaft, meshes with a gear and stub shaft which drives the distributor and oil pump. The eccentric which drives the fuel pump is mounted on the camshaft timing gear. A special ramp or quieting curve on each cam, rapidly and quietly opens and closes the valves, providing maximum duration of full opening and insures positive valve action at all speeds. The hydraulic tappets (standard equipment on the Red Ram, Super Red Ram and D500 engines) automatically compensate for variations in the operating mechanism, resulting from temperature changes or wear. The hydraulic tappet provides zero (0) clearance in the operating mechanism from the cam-lobe surface to the push rods, rocker arms and valve stems. The hydraulic tappets are included in the valve mechanism to eliminate service adjustments and to insure quiet vdlve operation. If necessary, the tappet assemblies can be removed from the engine to facilitate service. The exhaust and intake rocker arms oscillate on two hollow steel shafts (one on each head), supported by brackets on the cylinder heads. The rocker arms float in lubricating oil supplied under metered oil pressure through two special drilled passages from the number two and number four camshaft bearing bores. The oil flows into the drilled rocker cover studs (rear stud on right bank and front stud on left) and thence into the

rocker shafts. The rocker arms are prevented from excessive lateral movement along the shafts by a series of spacer springs, as shown in Figure 4. The D500 rocker arms oscillate on twin steel shafts, supported by brackets on the cylinder heads. Lubricating oil is supplied in the same manner as the single rocker shaft engine.

Cylinder Heads One of the features of the Red Ram and Super Red Ram engines are the Polyspherical combustion chambers in the cylinder heads. (See Figure 5.) The water passages in the heads are large and well designed to carry ample coolant over the combustion chamber wall and around the integral valve guide bosses and valve seats. The lower operating temperatures which result, indicate a marked increase in valve life which is a growing problem in many a high output engine. Special oil drain holes in the heads return the liberated lubricating oil from the rocker arms and shafts back to the oil pan for redistribution. The D500 engines feature the hemispherical combustion chambers in the heads. (See Figure 6.) This type of combustion chamber plus the lateral valve arrangement, provides the maximum amount of space for extra large valves and permits direct and unrestricted exhaust and intake valve porting. Pistons, Rings and Connecting Rods Aluminum alloy, steel belt, elliptical turned pistons are used in the new Dodge V-8 engines. The piston skirts are relieved diagonally below the piston pin boss to allow clearance between piston and crankshaft counterweights, when the pistons are at the bottom of travel. The expansion and contraction is controlled by the steel belt in such manner that a more nearly constant clearance is maintained between the piston and cylinder wall. Consequently, the pistons can be correctly fitted to minimum clearance and this clearance maintained whether the engine is idle or in operation. All piston and rod assemblies must be removed and installed through the top of each bank. Two tin coated compression and one oil ring with an expander are fitted to seal the compression and control the oil. The oil ring is locked in position with the gap up, by the expander spring to further control oil during idle or shut-down operation. The piston pins are full floating and retained by two snap rings which fit in recessed grooves in the piston boss. The connecting rods are made of drop-forged, heattreated carbon steel, and forged to an "I" section with a closed hub at the upper end and a separate cap on the lower. Each bearing shell and connecting rod cap has

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO CYLINDER HEAD BOLT HOLES V VALVÏ TAPPET PUSH ROD HOLES \ \ EXHAUST VALVE GUIDES (NOT REMO \\ \ \ OIL PASSAGÍ-TO \\ \ \ ROCIŒ« SHAFT^

—-

"*'•'-

6«HAiJ5T CROSS-OVER PASSAGE

INTAKE VALVE GUIDES (NOT REMOVABLE! ROCKER SHAFT 8RACK£T STUDS

ROCKER BRACKET FADS

5<*3O5

Oil PASSAGE-TO »OCKER ASSEMBLY VALVE TAPPH PUSH ROD HOLES SPARK PLUG HOLES

EXHAUST P COMBUSTION CHAM»Bt

Fig. 5—Cylinder Head

111

a small "v" groove across the cap-to-rod mating surface (on one side only). This "v" groove permits lubrication of the opposite cylinder wall. All main and connecting rod bearing shells are of the replaceable, steel backed babbitt type and require no reaming for fitting, as they are furnished in Standard and undersizes. Engine Lubrication The single and double rocker shaft engines are pressure lubricated by means of a rotary type oil pump. The pump is driven by the lower distributor drive shaft and draws oil through a screen located in the deep sump at the rear of the oil pan. Lubricating oil is drawn from the top of the crankcase oil supply by means of a strainer, and is forced through drilled oil passages to the oil filter and then to the main oil gallery in the right hand cylinder bank. The oil then travels to all main and connecting rod bearings, as well as to the camshaft bearings, hydraulic tappets, timing gears and chain. The oil then circulates across number one main bearing and into the left hand cylinder bank oil gallery. Drilled passages from both oil galleries supply each hydraulic tappet with lubricating oil. A drilled passage from the number two and four camshaft bearings, allows a metered amount of oil to be forced to the corresponding right and left bank drilled rocker cover retaining stud or bracket (D5OO). The oil then flows into the steel rocker shafts and out through drilled holes and grooves in the shafts to the rocker arms. Special drilled passages in the rocker arms carry the oil to small orifices in the rocker arms. Oil is liberated directly to the push rod ends of both rocker arms, as shown in Figure 7, and to the valve tip end of the intake rocker arm only. The exhaust valve tip end is fed by gravity from a hole in rocker arm bushing. Thus, oil is supplied to the valve operating mechanism, but only in spurts. When the lubricating oil hole in the camshaft journal is in alignment with the passages leading to the rocker shaft, oil is momentarily ROCKER SHAFT OIL SUPPLY

OIL PRESSURE PASSAGE TO ROCKER HEMISPHERICAL COMBUSTION CHAMBS PUSH ROD HOLES

SEAL

VALVE STEM VALVE PUSH ROD

Fig. 6—Cylinder Head (D5OO)

54x308 Fig. 7—Intake Rocker Arm Lubrication (Single Rocker Shaft and D5OO)

112

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

supplied under pressure to these working parts. A spring loaded pressure relief valve, integral with the oil pump, controls the pump pressures. 1. SERVICING THE V-8 ENGINES The following disassembly procedures are presented as a guide, to be followed when completely overhauling the V-8 engines. Time and labor can be saved by mounting the engine and clutch housing (if so equipped) in repair stand C-3167, after removal from vehicle. Because of the stand's unusual design, the engine can be rotated (360Â°) to the most convenient working position. In addition to the service procedure for overhauling the engine, special instructions are given to cover the different operations required for cleaning, inspection and servicing the various components before assembly. 2.

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY (1) Mount the engine and clutch housing (if so equipped) in the repair stand, using the transmission mounting bolts. Tighten bolts securely. (2) With the engine in upright position, drain the lubricating oil from the crankcase (if not previously done). (3) Remove the generator adjusting strap bolt, then tilt the generator inward to disengage the fan belt. If the car is equipped with Power Steering, loosen the pivot and locking bolt, then push down on pump assembly to disengage the pump drive belt. Remove generator, hydraulic pump (if so equipped) and generator adjusting strap. (4) Disconnect and remove the fuel line between the carburetor and the fuel pump. (5) Disconnect and remove the vacuum spark advance control tube, between the carburetor and distributor. (6) Remove the water outlet connection, then lift the thermostat out of the water pump housing. Discard the gasket. (7) Disconnect the cross-over choke rod from the choke shaft lever. Remove the nuts that attach the single or twin carburetors to the intake manifold, then lift carburetors up and away from engine. (This step is necessary only if other than Tool C-3162 engine lifter is used.) (8) Disconnect the primary lead wire from the ignition coil, then remove the right and left hand ignition cables and disengage from the spark plugs. Remove cables and distributor cap from the engine. (9) On the D500, disconnect the primary lead wire from the ignition coil, then using a screwdriver, remove the right and left hand ignition cable covers and disengage the plastic insulators from the spark plugs. Remove cables, insulators, spark plug tube seal ring washers and distributor cap from the engine.

(10) Remove the crankcase ventilator outlet pipe attaching bolt and the clip bolt at the clutch or converter housing (if so equipped). Lift pipe and filter up and away from engine. (11) Disconnect the secondary lead from the ignition coil, then remove the distributor clamp bolt. Lift distributor straight up and away from engine. Remove the oil seal ring. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure gauge tube. (12) Remove the bolts and lock washers holding the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. Lift intake manifold and ignition coil up and away from engine. Discard the gaskets. (13) Using a thin wall socket, or Tool C-3054, remove the spark plugs and gaskets. (14) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifolds to the cylinder heads. Pull manifolds out and away from the cylinder heads. (15) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the fan blades and pulley to the water pump hub. Slide blades and pulley off hub and away from engine. (16) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that attach the fuel pump to the chain case cover. Pull the fuel pump straight out and away from engine. (17) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the water pump to the pump housing. Withdraw the water pump. (18) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the water pump housing to the block and cylinder heads. Pull housing away from the engine. (19) Remove the nuts, flatwashers and insulating washers that hold the rocker covers to the cylinder heads. Lift covers up and away from the engine. On the D500, place cotterpins in the holes of the last and first rocker arm brackets (if not already there). This will keep the springs on the rocker arm shafts from pushing the assembly apart when the cylinder head bolts are removed. Completely loosen the ten bolts on each cylinder bank that attach the rocker arm support brackets to the cylinder heads and block. Grasp the support bracket at each end of the head and pull the rocker assemblies and bolts directly away from the heads. Remove push rods and place in slots of holder C-3068. WARNING: Care should be used when removing rocker assemblies, in order not to jerk the cylinder heads off the locating dowels, which would allow them to drop and become damaged. (20) Remove three bolts, two nuts and flatwashers that hold the single rocker shafts to the heads. Lift rocker shafts and arms straight up and way from heads. Remove push rods and place in their respective slots in holder C-3068. This will insure their being installed in their original position.

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO

113

(21) Remove the ten bolts on each bank that attach the cylinder heads to the block. Lift the cylinder heads up and away from the block. Immediately attach the cylinder head fixture C-3209. This will prevent damage to the machined head surface and the drilled rocker shaft mounting studs. (22) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the tappet chamber cover to the cylinder block. Lift cover up and away from the engine. (23) Slide the hydraulic tappets out of the bores and place in their respective holes in the tappet and push rod holder C-3068. This will insure their being installed in their original locations.

If tappets stick in bores due to a build-up of varnish and carbon around the tappet body, (after high mileage) slowly withdraw tappet with a sharp twisting motion, using Tool C-3216, as shown in Figure 8. The sharp edge at the bottom of tappet bore will shave the varnish and carbon deposits off tappet as it is withdrawn. (24) Remove the distributor drive gear and stub shaft by inserting the nose of Tool C-484 into the gear slot. Compress the pliers and withdraw the gear and shaft, using a clockwise motion to unmesh the spiral gear. (25) Remove the bolt and flatwasher holding the fan belt drive pulley and hub on crankshaft. Install Tool C-3033, as shown in Figure 9, then ease the pulley off end of crankshaft. On the D5OO, remove the bolt and retaining washer that holds the vibration damper hub on crankshaft. Remove two of the six bolts that attach the damper and pulley to the hub. (See typical Figure 9.) Install Tool

5¶ x 740

Fig. 9—Removing Pulley from Crankshaft

C-3033 and pull damper and hub off crankshaft. Discard seal. Remove remaining bolts and separate damper, hub and pulley. Before removing the piston and rod assemblies, remove the top ridge of bore (if present) with a reliable ridge reamer, or Tool C-3012. Be sure and keep the tops of the pistons covered during this operation. (26) Invert the engine 180° and remove the clutch housing or torque converter housing pan (if so equipped). (27) Using special box wrench, C-455, remove the two starting motor nuts and lockwashers, then ease starting motor out of clutch or torque converter housing. (28) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that attach the oil pan to the crankcase. Lift oil pan straight up and away from engine. (29) Remove the shunt type filter as follows: Loosen the filter center bolt and lift off the filter cover (shell). Now, remove the element. This will expose the filter base mounting bolts. Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the filter base to the cylinder block mounting pad. Lift the filter base out and away from block. (30) Remove the bolts and lockwashers which hold the oil pump to the rear main bearing cap. Pull pump and strainer up and away from cap with a slight twistting motion. Discard the oil seal ring.

When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from engine, rotate the crankshaft so that piston is at bottom dead center, then proceed as follows:

54x311

Fig. 8—Removing Tappet Body from Bore

(31) Remove the nuts that hold the bearing cap to the connecting rod. Remove cap and bearing shell, then install Tool C-3221 on one connecting rod bolt and the protector over the other. Now, push piston and rod assembly out of the cylinder bore. Repeat this operation each time a piston and rod

114

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

assembly is removed. After removal, install bearing cap to prevent mixing. (32) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the chain case cover to the cylinder block. Work the cover off the locating dowels and way from engine. (33) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger off end of crankshaft, then remove the camshaft sprocket hub bolt, washer and fuel pump eccentric. Pull camshaft sprocket, timing chain and crankshaft gear off shafts and away from engine, as shown in Figure 20. (The crankshaft gear is a slip fit on crankshaft.) Remove crankshaft gear key. (34) Loosen and remove the bolts holding the main bearing caps to block. Rap the caps lightly on the side to loosen, then lift off the main bearing caps and lower shells. (35) Form a heavy rope sling and wrap around the number 7 and 8 connecting rod bearing journals and hoist, the crankshaft, torque converter, or clutch straight up and away from the cylinder block. Remove the upper main bearing shell and the rear main bearing upper seal. (36) Remove the four bolts that hold the camshaft thrust plate to the cylinder block. Lift off the timing chain oil trough. (37) Ease the camshaft and thrust plate out of cylinder block, being careful not to damage the bearing shells. Discard the two main oil gallery seal rings. (38) Remove the bolts and lockwashers that hold the cylinder block to the clutch or torque converter housing. Lower block to shop floor, then remove the camshaft bearing shells as follows: (39) Using a suitable tool drive out the rear cam bearing welsh plug, then remove the two main oil gallery plugs. (40) Install the proper size adaptors and horseshoes (part of Tool C-3034) at the back of each cam bearing shell to be removed, and drive out of cylinder block.

limits when manufactured, that they do not require reaming, scraping or burnishing.

3. CYLINDER BLOCK INSPECTION Whenever the engine is to be completely overhauled and the cylinder block is stripped, the block should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for any condition that might render it unfit for further service. Live steam or a suitable degreasing tank should be used. After cleaning a cylinder block, be sure and blow out all passages thoroughly with compressed air. Pay particular attention to the various core hole plugs and replace if necessary. When installing new core hole plugs, coat the edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer, then drive in place, using Tool C-897, as shown in Figure 10. Examine the cleaned block for minute cracks or fractures and all machined surfaces for burrs or scoring. Check the tappet bores for signs of sticking, scuffed or badly scored surfaces. If the tappet or bore is badly scored, scuffed or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to the next oversize using Tool C-3028, as shown in Figure 11, and install a new tappet. Tappets are available in Standard and the following oversizes: .001, .008 and .030 inch. A diamond mark on engine serial number pad indicates .008" oversize tappet bores. The cylinder bores should be checked with an accurate gauge to determine the out-of-round or tapered condition of the cylinder, and necessity for, and method of, reconditioning required.

CHECKING CYLINDER BORES

The cylinder bores should be checked for out-of-round and taper, using Tool CM-119, as shown in Figure 12. Check each bore at the top, bottom, crosswise and lengthwise to determine what variation exists. CORE HOLE P L U G S — - * - ^ T

Measuring Camshaft Bearing Shell Wear Attach a dial indicator to the block with the plunger of the indicator resting on the back of cam nearest a bearing. Pry the shaft "to" and "from" the indicator so that the movement will be shown on the indicator. Check all bearings in the same manner. If the clearance exceeds .005 inch, install a new camshaft (test purpose only) then recheck the clearance. If the clearance with the new camshaft exceeds .0035 inch, new camshaft bearing shells should be installed. All the camshaft bearing shells are replaceable but seldom, if ever, have to be replaced. If bearing clearance is excessive, new bearing shells may be pressed in place after the camshaft and the old shell have been removed. Replacement bearing shells are finished to such close

54x312

F¡g. 10-ln$tall¡ng Cylinder Block Core Hole Plugs

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D500

wall 20 strokes in 20 seconds with the hone so that a cross hatch pattern will be obtained. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives and to prevent future trouble of excessive wear of engine parts. T h e hone may be safely used for removal of metal up to .005 inch and as high as .010 to .015 inch by an experienced operator.

vrL

SPECIAL TOOL

Fig. 11— Reaming Tappet Bores

If the cylinder bores show more than .005 inch outoí-round or a taper of more than .020 inch, the cylinder block should be rebored and new pistons and rings fitted.

115

HONING CYLINDER BORES

To remove light scoring, scuffing, or scratches from the cylinder walls, use Tool C-823. Usually one or two "passes" will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits. Cylinder walls should be deglazed, using cylinder surfacing hone Tool C-3501 equipped with 280 grit stones, prior to installation of new rings or to smooth down the cylinder walls after rough honing. A satisfactory finish can be obtained by giving each cylinder

51x967

Fig. 12—Checking Cylinder Bores for Out-of-Round or Taper

REBORING CYLINDERS

Cylinder walls which are badly scored, scuffed, scratched or worn beyond the specified limits should be rebored. Boring Bar Tool 377-S contains a special feature for setting the cutter under positive control. The use of a special micrometer and mounting to the cutter head, enables the cutter to be adjusted to the desired diameter. Whatever type of boring equipment is used, reboring should be done in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. The honing or boring operation should be closely coordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings in order that specifications may be maintained.

CAMSHAFT AND BEARING SHELL INSTALLATION

Be sure the oil holes in the cam bearing shell and cylinder block are in exact alignment. To check after each bearing shell has been installed, insert pencil flashlight in shell. The complete circumference of the camshaft bearing oil hole should be visible by looking through the main bearing drilled oil passage. If camshaft bearing oil hole is not in exact alignment, remove shell and reinstall. The above information is particularly important when installing the number two and four camshaft bearing shells, as the lubrication of the valve operating mechanism depends on correct alignment of these two shells. (1) Coat a new welsh plug with a suitable sealer then install in the cylinder block at the rear cam bearing, using Tool C-897. Coat the main oil gallery plugs with sealer, then install in block. Tighten securely. Remount the cylinder block to the clutch or torque converter housing (if so equipped) then mount engine block in the repair stand. Install the new camshaft bearing shell as follows: (2) Slide new bearing shell over adaptor and insert in position, as shown in Figure 13. Install the horseshoe lock and drive in place. Install the remaining bearing shells in like manner. (3) Lubricate all the camshaft bearings, then install the camshaft, being careful not to damage or mar the bearings. Insert new oil seal rings at the main oil galleries. (See Figure 14). (4) Slide the spacer washer over end of camshaft (tapered side toward camshaft fillet) followed by the

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

116

rCRANKSHAFT M A I N BEARING OIL HOLE ^CAMSHAFT BEARING OIL HOLE

151x83 A F¡g. 13—Installing Camshaft Bearing Shells

MAIN OIL GALLERY OIL SEAL RINGS

plate and oil trough. Install bolts and lockwashers. Tighten to 15 foot pounds. (See Figure 15). 8. MAIN BEARING SHELL INSTALLATION The crankshaft is supported by five main bearings, each of which contains replaceable upper and lower bearing shells. The halves of numbers 1, 2 and 4 bearings are interchangeable with one another. (The caps are not interchangeable and extreme care should be used in replacing them in their correct position.) Number 3 bearing, which controls the crankshaft end thrust is not interchangeable with the others. However, the upper and lower halves of number 3 bearing are interchangeable with each other. Number 5 bearing halves are not interchangeable. The crankshaft journals should be examined for scoring, cracks, excessive wear or overheating. When crankshaft bearing journals are badly scored or worn, a new crankshaft should be installed. Check the bearing caps for distortion, with an inside micrometer. (Caps must be properly torqued.) Bearing shells are available in .001, .002, .003, .010 and .012 inch undersizes. 9.

CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE

CAMSHAFT BEARING N O . 1

51x710 F¡g. 14—Installing the Camshaft

CHECKING MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE

The desired main bearing clearance is .0005 to .0015 inch. To determine if the clearance is within these limits, proceed as follows: (1) Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the block so that both ends protrude. Tap the seal down into position with Tool C-3131, until tool is seated in the bearing bore. Hold the tool in this position, then cut off the portion of the seal that extends above the block on both sides. (2) Check each bearing shell carefully for a scored, chipped or etched condition. Replace damaged bearing

CAMSHAFT, OIL INLET TO GALLERIES AND FILTER NO. 3 THRUST BEARING

SPACER CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

f`·.^. `·

REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL—UPPER

THRUST PLATE

BOLT FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC CUP WASHER 56x47

F¡g. 15—Camshaft Drive Parts (Exploded View)

[CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SHELLS—UPPER

Fig. 16—Main Bearing Shells Installed—Upper

ENGINE-RED RAM,-SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO shells with new ones and install in cylinder block, as shown in Figure 16. (3) Lubricate all bearing shells with engine oil, then carefully lower crankshaft, clutch or torque converter (if so equipped) directly down on the bearing shells. The crankshaft should be l o w e r e d e v e n l y a n d s q u a r e with the block in order not to d a m a g e the b e a r i n g s . (4) Install the bearing shells in the caps, then, starting at the center main bearing, place a piece of .001 inch feeler stock (½ inch wide and 1 inch long) between bearing and crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 17. Install the bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bearing cap bolts with a torque wrench to 85 foot-pounds. If a slight drag is felt as the crankshaft is rotated, the clearance is .001 inch or less and is considered satisfactory. If, however, no drag is felt, or the crankshaft cannot be rotated, the bearing is either too large or too small and should be replaced with the correct size. Fit the remaining bearings in like manner. (5) Install a new seal in bearing cap (bearing shell removed) so that the ends protrude. Tap seal down into position with Tool C-3131, as shown in Figure 18, until tool is seated. Trim off the portion of the seal that protrudes above cap (do not cut off seal below cap or leak will result), as shown in Figure 18. Now, install the two cap side seals in the grooves in the cap. Care should be used when installing these seals, as they are NOT interchangeable. The seal with the longer body should be installed on the oil filter side of the block. Seal incorrectly installed will cause an oil leak. (6) At the final tightening of main bearings, (after all bearings have been fitted) tighten the number 3 center main bearing (thrust) first, then work alternately to the ends. (7) Check the crankshaft end play with a dial indi-

117

C-3131 •"*

<*~rjL·:

¡5¶x97O Fig. 18—Installing Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal

cator. The end play should be .002 to .007 inch.

10.

TIMING GEAR AND CHAIN INSTALLATION

(1) Insert the camshaft and crankshaft gear keys in their respective slots, then rotate the shafts until both keys are directly up and on a centerline with each shaft. (2) Place the camshaft and crankshaft gears on bench with the keyway slots pointing up and in alignment, as shown in Figure 19. Slide timing chain around the camshaft gear, being careful not to disturb the keyway alignment. (3) Install the chain around gear in such a manner that the camshaft timing mark tooth is directly in between the links of chain. (See Figure 19.) 23 RD. PIN

BEARING CAP BEARING

SHIM STOCK

Fig. 17—Checking Main Bearing Clearance With Shim Stock

TIMING MARK

56x548

F¡g. 19—Positioning Gears in Chain

118

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

DISTRIBUTOR LOCK SCREW

T!MING MARKS

[DRIVE GEAR 1

Fig. 19A—Camshaft Holding Tool Installed (4) Now, slide the crankshaft gear into the chain so that the timing mark slot (between teeth) is in direct line with the twenty-third timing chain pin. (Refer to Figure 19.) Insert Tool C-3509 into distributor hole between timing gear and block, as shown in Figure 19A. Install retaining bolt. This will lock camshaft in position during installation of gears. (5) Lift the gears and chain, keeping the gears tightly in position in the chain. Now slide both gears evenly over their respective shafts, as shown in Figure 20. Push the gears firmly over the keyways and into position. WARNING: The camshaft no longer has a retaining hub and it is possible to force the camshaft back against the welsh plug in the rear of bearing opening, forcing it out of position. This may cause an oil leak, unless Tool C-3509 is used. TIMING MARK

Fig. 21—Timing Marks on Camshaft and Crankshaft Gears (6) Rotate the cam and crankshaft until the zero timing marks on the gears are exactly in line with the center of both the camshaft and crankshaft, as shown in Figure 21. (7) Place a straight edge across the face of gears and carefully check the alignment of the timing marks, a s shown in Figure 22. The marks must be exactly in line. (8) Slide the fuel pump eccentric over camshaft and down against the gear, as shown in Figure 23. Be sure the slot in the eccentric engages the tip of the gear key. Install the retaining washer, lockwasher and bolt. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds. If necessary, check the timing chain for stretch or wear as follows: 11.

CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN FOR STRETCH To check the timing chain for stretch or wear, place a

CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET KEY W A Y ALIGNED

56x549

Fig. 20—Installing Timing Chain and Gear

56x55? Fig. 22—Checking Alignment of Timing Marks

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO PULLER BLOCKS

119 LIP OF SEAL RETAINER

56X221

Fig. 25—Puller Blocks Expanded to Correct Pulling Position IRETAINER WASHER¾P ¯ - ¶ H H U V ^ -

56x556 Ar

Fig. 23—Installing Fuel Pump Eccentric

scale across the top oí camshaft gear, (chain installed) with the dimensional edge close to the chain, then proceed as follows: (1) Place a l ¼ inch socket over the camshaft gear nut and then affix a torque wrench. (2) Now, apply a 25 foot-pound torque pressure in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack. Holding the scale with the dimensional reading even with the edge of a chain link, apply the 25 foot-pound torque pressure in the reverse direction and note the amount of chain rotation. (See Figure 24.) (3) If the movement of the chain is greater than ‰ inch, as indicated by the stationary scale, install a new timing chain. With a 25 foot-pound torque ap-

30 POUNDS TORQUE

p l i e d to the camshaft g e a r bolt, the crankshaft should not m o v e during this check. H o w e v e r , if there is a n y question, t h e crankshaft should b e blocked to p r e v e n t rotation. (4) Slide the crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against gear, (flange away from gear). Using Tool C-3506, remove the oil seal from the chain case cover as follows: (5) Position the puller screw through cover with the inside of the cover facing up. Now, position the puller blocks directly opposite each other and force the angular lip between neoprene and the flange of the seal retainer. Place washer and nut on puller screw. (6) Tighten nuts as tight as possible by hand, forcing blocks into the gap to the point of distorting the seal retainer lip, as shown in Figure 25. The p u l l e r is only positioned at this point. (7) Place sleeve over seal retainer, then slide removing and installing plate into sleeve. Slide flat-washer and nut over screw. Tighten nut while holding puller screw and pull seal out of cover, as shown in Figure 26. Using Tool C-3506, install new seal as follows: (8) Insert the puller screw through the removing and PULLER SCREW REMOVING AND INSTALLING PLATE

SLEEVE

56X222

51 x 743

Fig. 24—Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

Fig. 26—Removing Oil Seal

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

120

INSTALLING PLATE , PULLER SCREW

SEAL ASSEMBLY

56X220

Fig. 27—Positioning the Installer Plate

SEAL RETAINER INSTALLING PLATE PULLER SCREW

as shown in Figure 27. Install flatwasher and nut on puller screw. (10) Hold puller screw with wrench and tighten nut# as shown in Figure 28. The seal is properly installed when the neoprene is tight against stamping. Remove tool. (Do not overtighten so it will distort seal.) (11) Attempt to insert a .0015 inch feeler gauge between the neoprene and stamping, as shown in Figure 29. If seal is properly installed, the feeler gauge cannot be inserted. (12) Be sure the mating surface of the chain case cover and the cylinder block are clean and free from burrs. Install new gasket. Use a s m a n y g a s k e t s between chain case cover and the cylinder block as were originally installed at the factory. Failure to do so may result in the crankshaft oil slinger rubbing the inside of the cover. (7) Slide chain case cover over locating dowels and, using a soft hammer, tap cover in place. Install bolts and washers after coating with a suitable sealer. (See Figure 30.) Tighten bolts with a torque wrench to 15 footpounds. (Install short bolt at oil filler pipe location.)

12.

56X223

Fig. 28-lnstalling New Seal FEELER GAUGE C H A I N CASE COVER

SERVICING THE PISTONS AND RINGS

New pistons (if required) should be fitted to the cylinder bore with the greatest accuracy and care. The recommended clearance between the thrust face of piston and cylinder wall is .0005 to .0015 inch, when measured with a micrometer and a dial indicator. The clearance can also be checked with a .0015 inch feeler stock (½ inch wide) on spring scale Tool C-690, as follows:

13. FITTING PISTONS (1) Starting with the number one cylinder, coat the bore very lightly with SAE 10W engine oil. Insert the DOWEL PINS,

56X224 A

Fig. 29—Checking Seal for Proper Seat

installing plate so that the thinner shoulder is facing up. Slide puller screw with plate through seal opening (inside of cover facing up). (9) Place seal in cover opening, with neoprene facing down. Now, slide the seal installing plate into the seal with protective recess toward the lip of the seal retainer,

¢JBOLTS TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR WATER * B O L T S TO BE COATED WITH SUITABLE SEALER FOR OIL 5ix7O9A

Fig. 30—Chain Case Cover Installed

121

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO

FEELER GAUGE

51x59

^R|NG

GROOVE

54x314

F¡g. 31—Fitting Pistons to the Cylinder Bore

piston in the bore, upside down, with the feeler stock between the piston (thrust face) and the cylinder wall. (2) Holding the piston, draw the feeler stock out straight with the spring scale, as shown in Figure 31. The amount of pull to withdraw feeler stock should be from 5 to 10 pounds. (3) Fit remaining pistons in like manner. Due to the necessity of maintaining piston balance, all pistons are machined to the same weight in grams, regardless of oversizes. Only finished pistons are available for service and are supplied in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020, .030, .040 and .060 inch. 14. FITTING PISTON RINGS Measure the piston ring gap about 2 inches from the bottom of the cylinder bore, which it is to be fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down into position.) This will insure the rings being exactly square with the cylinder wall before measuring. Fig. 25—Fitting Pistons to the Cylinder Bore

51x72 Fig. 32—Checking Ring Gaps in Bore

Fig. 33—Checking Piston Ring Groove Clearance

(1) Insert feeler stock in gap and take measurement, as shown in Figure 32. The ring gap should be between .010 and .020 inch. This measurement is constant for all rings. (2) Measure between piston ring and ring groove, as shown in Figure 33. This clearance should be .0015 to .003 inch for the top compression, .0010 to .0025 inch for the intermediate ring and .001 to .003 inch for the oil control ring. If clearance is out of limits, piston should be replaced. After the above clearances have been checked, and corrected (if necessary) on all rings, install rings on pistons. (3) Starting with the oil ring expander, place expander ring in lower ring groove. Then install oil control ring and compression rings, using Tool C-263, as shown in Figure 34 and Figure 35. 15. FITTING PISTON PINS (1) Test piston pin fit in the connecting rod. This should be a tight thumb press fit at normal room temperature. (2) Test piston pin fit in piston. This should be a tight thumb press fit at normal room temperature. Piston pins are supplied in standard and the following oversizes: .003 and .008 inch. When using expansion Tool C-3200 to fit piston pins, be careful and take a very light cut. Ream and try fit—ream and try a g a i n , until piston pin can be pushed into the piston or connecting rod a s described above. (3) Assemble the pistons to the rods on the right hand cylinder bank (2, 4, 6 and 8) with the indent on the piston head (see Figure 36) on opposite side to larger chamfer on large end of connecting rod.

122

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

TOP COMPRESSION INTERMEDIATE COMPRESSION TOOL COMPRESSION RINGS

OIL RING OIL CONTROL RING

LOCK RING PISTON PIN

54x315

Fig. 35—Installing Rings on Piston

PISTON

(4) Assemble the pistons to the rods on the left hand cylinder bank (1, 3# 5 and 7) with the indent on the piston head (see Figure 37) on the same side as larger chamfer on the large end of the connecting rod. 16. CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT (1) To check for Bend —Install the connecting rod and piston assembly in fixture C-3491 or C-481, as shown in Figure 38. The top of the piston should be flush FRONT <4

INDENT

COMPRESSION RINGS

OIL RING LOCK RING PISTON PIN

" V " SLOT

LARGE CHAMFER

54x319

Fig. 34—Piston and Rod Assembly (Exploded View)

Fig. 36—Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly (Right Hand Bank)

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO FRONT

123

-INDENT

COMPRESSION RINGS

OIL RING LOCK RING

PISTON PIN

47x¶39 Fig. 39—Correcting Connecting Rod for Bend or Twist

LARGE CHAMFER " V " SLOT

54x320

Fig. 37—Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly (Left Hand Bank)

with the tool. The clearance between the piston and tool, at the point shown in "A," should be zero (0), however, a .002 inch variation is allowable. If more than .002 inch feeler stock can be inserted, the piston and connecting rod should be disassembled and the rod checked, as shown in Figure 39. Straighten the bent rod or install a new one. (2) To check for Twist —With the connecting rod and piston assembly installed in fixture C-481 tilt

L·¿S TWISTING FIXTURE SET SCREW

s ATTEMPr¢^ü

BENDING TO INSERT 1 ^ « ^ v FIXTURE ! FEELER W-‰ ¾ÆJ·`^"SET < Ä½SCREW STOCK AT, k. THESE LR

POINTS ¿ d E

54x321

Fig. 38—Checking Connecting Rod and Piston for Alignment

the piston, as shown in Figure 38, "B." The clearance between the tool and the top of piston should be zero (0). However, a .002 inch variation is allowable. If more than .002 inch feeler stock can be inserted at either of these points, the piston and connecting rod should be disassembled and the rod checked as outlined in the preceding paragraph. 17.

CHECKING CONNECTING ROD BEARING SHELL CLEARANCE The method of fitting connecting rods, as described below, is accomplished without inserting the piston and rod in the cylinder bore, thereby eliminating any possible drag that might be caused between the piston and the cylinder wall. When fitting rods, it is suggested that either the right or left hand bank be fitted first, as the positions of the rods and pistons (as installed in the engine) are not interchangeable. See Installing Connecting Rods and Pistons Paragraph. Limits on the taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journal should be held to .001 inch. Undersize bearings should be installed if the crankshaft journals are worn enough to increase the bearing clearance above specifications. Never install an undersize bearing shell that will reduce the clearance below specifications. The desired connecting rod bearing shell clearance is from .0005 to .0015 inch, with a side play of .006 to .014 inch, and may be checked as follows: (1) Take each connecting rod, one at a time, and install the upper and lower bearing shell. The bearing shells should always be installed so that the small formed tang fits into the machined grooves of the rods. It should be noted that each bearing cap has a small "v" groove across the parting face, as shown in Figure 36. When installing the lower bearing shell, make cer-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

124

18.

#"'' 51 x 745 Fig. 40—Checking Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance

tain that the "v" groove in the shell is in line with the "v" groove in the cap. This is to allow lubrication of the cylinder wall. (2) Place a piece of .001 inch feeler stock (½ inch wide and ¾ inch long) between the bearing shell and crankshaft journal. Install the bearing cap and tighten the nuts to 45 foot-pounds. (3) Move the connecting rod and piston from side to side, as shown in Figure 40. A slight drag should be felt as the rod is moved. This will indicate that the clearance is .001 inch or less and is considered satisfactory. If however, no drag is felt or the connecting rod is difficult to move, the bearing shell is either too large or too small and should be replaced with the correct size. Fit remaining connecting rod bearing shells in like manner.

INSTALLING CONNECTING RODS, PISTONS AND RINGS IN THE CYLINDER BLOCK

Before installing the pistons, rings and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression ring gaps are diametrically opposite one another and not in line with the oil ring gap. The oil ring expander gap should be toward the outside of the "V" of the engine. The oil ring gap should be turned toward the i n s i d e of the "V" of the engine. (1) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, then slide ring compressor Tool C-385 over piston and tighten with the special wrench (part of Tool C-385). Be sure the position of the rings does not change during this operation. (2) Screw the connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool C-3221) on one rod bolt, then insert rod and piston into cylinder bore. Affix the puller part of Tool C-3221 on the other bolt, then guide the rod over the crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 41. (3) Tap the piston down into the cylinder bore, using the handle of a hammer, and at the same time, guide the connecting rod into position on the crankshaft journal. T h e i n d e n t i n the top of the piston must b e pointing t o w a r d the front of e n g i n e . A s a d o u b l e c h e c k the c o n n e c t i n g rod b o r e s a r e c h a m f e r e d m o r e on o n e side t h a n t h e other. The l a r g e r c h a m f e r must b e i n s t a l l e d t o w a r d the crankshaft j o u r n a l fillet. (4) Install the bearing caps and nuts. Tighten nuts to 45 foot-pounds.

19.

INSTALLING THE OIL PUMP

After removing the oil pump from the engine, the pump should be cleaned, disassembled and inspected for wear or damage that would render the pump unfit for further service. To disassemble the oil pump, refer to the Engine

GUIDE TOOLS

BOTTOM OF CYLINDER BLOCK

CENTER LINE OF TUBE 54x322 A

Fig. 41—Guiding Connecting Rod Over Crankshaft

Fig. 42—Oil Strainer and Suction Tube Alignment

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO Lubrication portion of this section. (Paragraph 35). (1) Install the strainer on the end of the suction tube and secure with a cotter pin. (2) Insert the threaded end of the suction tube into the pump body, then tighten securely. (3) Place a new oil seal ring in the recess on the pump mounting face, then install the oil pump, suction tube and strainer to the rear main bearing cap. Tighten the mounting bolts to 35 foot-pounds. (4) After the oil pump has been installed, check the alignment of the strainer. The bottom of the strainer must be on a horizontal plane with the machined surface of the cylinder block, a s shown in Figure 42. (5) Using a new set of gaskets and seals, install the oil pan. Install the oil pan bolts and tighten evenly to 15 foot-pounds. (6) Engage the clutch release bearing (if so equipped) and sleeve with the fork, by sliding springs over ends of fork and into position. (7) Install the clutch housing p a n (if so equipped) and secure with bolts and lockwashers. Install the two short bolts on the vertical surface at the front of clutch housing. 20.

SERVICING THE HYDRAULIC TAPPETS (Red Ram, Super Red Ram and D5OO) The hydraulic tappets used in the Engines consist of a plunger, plunger cap, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer, plunger spring, tappet body and plunger retainer spring clip, as shown in Figure 43. The following service procedures should be followed closely in order that satisfactory engine performance be obtained. Because of the important part the hydraulic tappets play in the operation of the engine, the necessity for proper care and cleanliness of these units cannot be PLUNGER RETA¡NING SPRING CUP •PLUNGER CAP TAPPET PLUNGER FLAT VALVE

VALVE SPRING VALVE RETAINER PLUNGER SPRING

TAPPET BODY

52x389A

Fig. 43—Hydraulic Tappet (Exploded View)

125

52x366 Fig. 44—Hydraulic Tappet (Sectional View) over-emphasized. The following instructions for preliminary preparation should be followed carefully in connection with servicing of the hydraulic tappet. Particular attention should be given the plunger and flat valve. The plunger should be checked for signs of scoring or wear, and the valve sealing surface for pitting. Check the valve seat on the end of the plunger for any condition that would not allow the valve to seat perfectly. If a n y of the above conditions are apparent, install a new tappet assembly. Do not disassemble a tappet in dirty surroundings or on a dirty work bench. Use clean paper on the bench and, after the tappet has been disassembled, place the loose parts in the rack, then submerge in clean kerosene a s a protection against dirt or corrosion. With more than one tappet disassembled, it is not only good practice, but necessary, to keep the parts of each tappet separate. The plunger and valve must always be fitted in the same body. To disassemble the hydraulic tappet for cleaning and inspection, refer to Figure 43, then proceed a s follows: (1) Using a suitable tool, pry out the plunger retainer spring clip. (2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of the tappet body above the plunger cap, then invert the body and remove the plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and plunger spring. (See Figures 43 and 44.) (3) Separate the plunger, check valve retainer and check valve spring. (4) Place all parts in their respective locations in the tappet holder Tool C-3068. 2 1 . CLEANING THE HYDRAULIC TAPPETS Clean all the tappet parts in a suitable solvent that will remove all trace of varnish and carbon, then inspect the tappets for wear, scoring or damage that would render them unfit for further service. After having cleaned and inspected the tappets, assemble with care to make sure the parts are installed in the body exactly as shown in Figures 43 and 44. Under no circumstance attempt to fit the check valve shoulder into the plunger. The

126

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

5ix97IB

Fig. 45—Testing the Hydraulic Tappet

finished seat of the check valve is on the side opposite the shoulder. Test the hydraulic tappet as described below:

22. TESTING THE HYDRAULIC TAPPET (1) Secure a container deep enough to completely immerse the tappet assembly (upright position). (2) Fill the container with clean kerosene, then remove the cap from plunger and submerge tappet. (3) Allow cylinder to fill with kerosene, then remove tappet and replace the cap. (4) Holding the tappet in an upright position, insert the lower jaw of pliers Tool C-3160 in the groove in the tappet body, a s shown in Figure 45. Engage the upper jaw of pliers with the top of tappet plunger (cap). (5) Check the leakdown by compressing the pliers. If the plunger collapses almost instantly, a s pressure is applied, disassemble tappet assembly and reclean. Test tappet again. If the tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet assembly. If the tappet shows the least sign of not meeting the leakdown test, the tappet should be discarded. After the hydraulic tappets have been cleaned, inspected and tested, install in the engine as follows: (6) Place the engine in right side up position, then install the hydraulic tappts. (When installing tappets be sure each is installed in its original bore.) USE ONLY PART NO. 1555176 REPLACEMENT TAPPETS IN THE ENGINES. 23. CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEMBLY With the cylinder heads mounted in holding fixtures C-3209, a s shown in Figure 46, disassemble a s follows: (1) Compress the valve springs, using tool C-3428, as shown in Figure 47. Remove each of the valve locks, then release and remove the spring compressing tool. (2) Remove the valve spring retainer and valve stem seal rings, then lift off the valve springs. T h e v a l v e VALVE SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL

¾v.,

54x324

Fig. 46—Cylinder Head Holding Fixture

54x325

Fig. 47—Compressing Valve Springs

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D500 spring r e t a i n e r a n d springs a r e i n t e r c h a n g e a b l e . S l i d e v a l v e s out of g u i d e s . (3) Check the lock grooves in the valve stems for burrs. Remove burrs if present, using a fine file or stone so as not to damage guides when the valves are removed. (4) Remove the valves from each head and place in a numbered rack. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compressed air.

127

VALVE SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL

Cylinder Head Disassembly—(D500) With the cylinder heads mounted in holding fixtures C-3209, as shown in Figure 48, disassemble as follows: (1) Compress the valve springs, using Tool C-3023, as shown in Figure 49. Remove each of the valve locks, then release and remove spring compression tool. (2) Remove the valve spring seats and valve stem seal rings (intake valves only) and the outer and inner valve springs.

51 x 753 Fig. 49—Compressing Valve Springs (D500) It s h o u l d b e n o t e d for r e - a s s e m b l i n g p u r p o s e s , that the i n t a k e v a l v e spring s e a t s differ slightl y from the e x h a u s t v a l v e s p r i n g s e a t s a n d that a v a l v e stem s e a l is u s e d on the i n t a k e stem. ( S e e F i g u r e 64.) (3) Check the lock grooves in the valve stems for burrs. Remove burrs if present, with a file or stone so as not to damage valve guides when the valves are removed. (4) Remove valves from each head and place in a numbered rack. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

51x751 Fig. 48—Cylinder Head Holding Fixture (D500)

24. CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION Check the cylinder heads for cracks, marred or scatched machined surface, or any other condition that might render the heads unfit for further service. Make sure that the cylinder block and head mating surfaces are clean and that the water holes are fully open. Check the cylinder head water outlet covers at the rear of each head for leaks. If leaking, install new gaskets after coating with a suitable sealer. Tighten bolts securely. Remove all carbon and varnish from the valves and stems, using a fine brass wire brush. Inspect each valve carefully and discard any that are found to be burned, warped or cracked. Using a micrometer, measure the stem of each valve. The intake valve stems should measure from .372 to .373 inch; exhaust valve stems should measure from .371 to .372 inch. This measurement should be taken at several places on the valve stem. If wear exceeds .002

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

128

VALVE GUIDE CLEANING TOOL

54x326

INTAKE VALVE CHECKING SLEEVE

EXHAUST VALVE CHECKING SLEEVE

Fig. 50—Cleaning Valve Guides

Fig. 52—Installing Sleeves to Check Guide Clearance

inch, ream the valve guide and install an oversize valve. It should be remembered, at this point, that in single rockershaft engines the valve guides are cast integral with the cylinder head and that valves with oversize stems are available for service. Remove the carbon and varnish deposits from the interior of the valve guides, using cleaner Tool C-756, as shown in Figures 50 and 51. After all traces of carbon and varnish have been removed from the guides, check the valve stem to guide clearance with a dial indicator as follows: To insure an accurate reading and also prevent unnecessary removal of parts, the valve stem to guide clearance should be checked with the valves that are to be installed in their respective guides. This means

that if new valves are to be installed, they should be used for checking the old valve guides in the same manner. (1) Slide sleeve C-3025 on the intake valve stem or C-3026 on the exhaust valve stem, as shown in Figures 52 or 53. Now, insert the valve in position in the cylinder head. (2) Attach dial indicator C-430 to the cylinder head and set the plunger so as to contact the edge of the valve being checked at a right angle or as near as possible, as shown in Figures 54 or 55. (3) Move the valve to, and from the indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed .008 inch on the intake valves or .014 inch on the exhaust valves. If readings are more than the above specifications, install new valves and ream the guides as required.

VALVE GUIDE CLEANING TOOL

ÍNTAKE VALVE CHECKING SLEEVE

EXHAUST VALVE KING SLEEVE

51x755 51 x 754 Fig. 51—Cleaning Valve Guides (D500)

Fig. 53—Installing Sleeves to Check Guide Clearance (D500)

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO

129

25. REAMING VALVE GUIDES AND INSTALLING VALVES WITH OVERSIZE STEMS If after checking the valve to guide clearance as described above, and the total dial indicator reading is greater than .008 inch on the intake valves or .014 inch on the exhaust valves, ream the guides (cast in the head) to the next oversize (if other than standard) and install new valves. Valves with oversize stems are available in .005, .015 and .030 inch. Before reaming the valve guides, check the rocker cover gasket boss at one end of the cylinder head for either a stamped "E" (exhaust) or "I" (intake). If a letter is found, all the guides in the head, (either intake or exhaust, depending on the letter, will be oversize. The standard production reaming of both the intake and exhaust valve guides is .374 to .375 inch. Reamer Tool C-3433, is used to ream the intake and exhaust

INTAKE VALVE

54x328

Fig. 54—Checking Valve Guide Clearance

\\ \

54x329

Fig. 55—Reaming Valve Guides

51 x 756 Fig. 56—Checking Valve Guide Clearance (D5OO)

130

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

valve guides to obtain the correct clearance for a .005 inch oversize intake or exhaust valve stem (.379 to .380). Reamer Tool C-3430, is used to ream the intake and exhaust valve guides to obtain the correct clearance for a .015 inch oversize intake or exhaust valve stem (.389 to .390). Reamer Tool C-3427, is used to ream the intake and exhaust valve guides to obtain the correct clearance for a .030 inch oversize intake or exhaust valve stem (.404 to .405). Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem to be sure of the diameter, then slide reamer of the desired size into the guide to be reamed. Slowly turn reamer by hand, as shown in Figure 55, until guide is reamed. Clean inside of the guide thoroughly, then install the new valve and check with a dial indicator as described in steps 1 through 3 above. Do not attempt to ream the valve guides from Standard directly to .030 inch. Use the step procedure of .005. .015, and then .030 inch, in order that the valve guides may be reamed true in relation to the valve seat.

Valve Guide Removal and Installation (D500) Should the dial indicator reading indicate the need for new valve guides, the old guides can be removed and new ones installed a s follows: (1) Using Tool C-3159, drive out the guides to be replaced, through the top of the cylinder heads. (2) Turn the cylinder head with the combustion chamber facing up. Place the new valve guide in position in valve port and drive into head. (See Figure 57.) It is very important that the valve guides be driven down to the correct position. This can be determined as follows: (3) Place a steel scale across the combustion cham-

PUNCH MARK O N INSTALLING TOOL FLUSH WITH FACE OF CYLINDER HEAD

Fig. 58—Installing Intake Valve Guide (D500) ber dome, as shown in Figure 58. Drive the intake valve guides down until the punch mark on the side of driving tool is flush with the face of the cylinder head. (4) Drive the exhaust valve guides down until the flat end of the valve guide is flush with the top of the valve guide boss, as shown in Figure 57. (5) After new valve guides have been installed, ream each guide from .374 to .375 inch, using Tool C-741, as shown in Figure 59.

26. REFACING VALVES AND SEATS To insure a positive sealing of the valve to the seat, the grinding wheel of the valve refacer, and the stones of the seat grinder should be carefully refaced. In each case the set up should be such that the finished angle of both the valve and the seat are identical. When refacing the valves with Tool MTH-80, remove only a small amount of metal at a time to insure

.374/.375 REAM IN PLACE EXHAUST VALVE STEM GUIDE .374/,375 REAM IN PLACE INTAKE VALVE STEM GUIDE

5ix722B

Fig. 57—Exhaust and Intake Valve Guides Installed in Head (D500)

Fig. 59—Reaming Valve Guides (D500)

131

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO

INTAKE VALVE

MARGIN

EXHAUST VALVE

FACE

STEM

VALVE SPRING RETAINER LOCK GROOVES

54x330

Fig. 60—Intake and Exhaust Valve Nomenclature

a smooth, accurate surface on the valve face. After the valves have been refaced, check the valve head margin of each valve (see Figure 60). The margin must be at least % 4 inch, otherwise the valve should be discarded and a new valve installed. When refacing the valve seats, it is essential that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for the reseating stones. Grind the seats with Tool MTH-JB-41. Remove only a small amount of metal at a time to insure a smooth, accurate surface. Avoid over grinding. A true and complete surface must be obtained. Check the concentricity of the seat, using dial indicator No. 9320. The total run-out should not exceed .002 inch (total indicator reading). Check the valve seat with Prussian Blue to determine where the valve contacts the seat. It is important that this contact be centralized on the valve face. If this contact surface is not properly centralized, the seat should be relocated by using a 20° stone at the top, or a 60° stone at the bottom, whichever is necessary. (Refer to Figure 61.) When the seat is properly positioned, the

width of the intake seats should be a liberal ½ 6 inch, but not more than % 2 m c n m a n Y case. The width of the exhaust seats should be % 4 inch to a liberal ¾ 6 inch. 27. TESTING VALVE SPRINGS Whenever the valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs should be tested. To test a spring, first determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is 1 ¾ 6 inches. Turn the table of Tool C-647 until surface is in line with the l‰-inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place spring over stud on table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench, as shown in Figure 62, until ping is heard. Take reading on wrench at this instant. Multiply reading by two. This will give the spring load to the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on table for finer adjustments. Both the exhaust and intake valve springs on the Red Ram and Super Red Ram should test 134 to 146 pounds when compressed to l ‰ inches. Discard springs that test less than 130 pounds at 1¾ 6 inch. Each spring should be checked for trueness. This can be done with a steel square and a surface plate. Stand each spring and the square on end on the surface plate and then slide the spring up to the square. Then gradually revolve the spring, while at the same time noticing the space between the top coil of spring and the square. The trueness of the spring should not exceed ‰ inch. If the spring is more than ‰ inch out, install a new valve spring. On the D5OO, the outer valve springs should test 100 to 110 pounds when compressed to 1¾ 6 inch. The inner valve springs should test 40 to 45 pounds when com-

CONTACT SURFACE

54x333

154x332

Fig. 61—Valve Seat Reconditioning Angles

Fig. 62—Testing Valve Springs

132

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT

Design of plunger travel includes a safety factor for normal wear and refacing of valves and seats. However, if face and seat grinding is carried to the point where the valve position is changed ‰ inch or more from its factory installed position, the dimension from the valve spring seat in the head to the valve tip should be checked with gauge C-3436, as shown in Figure 63. The end of the cylindrical gauge and the bottom of the slotted area represent the maximum and minimum allowable extension of the valve stem tip beyond the spring seat. If the tip exceeds the maximum, grind to approach (but do not go below) the minimum allowable on the gauge. Clean tappets if tip grinding is required.

VALVE STEM LENGTH GAUGE

MINIMUM MEASUREMENT C h e c k i n g V a l v e Stem Position MINIMUM MEASUREMENT MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT

VALVE STEM LENGTH GAUGE

After all parts of the Red Ram or Super Red Ram cylinder heads have been checked and corrected, reassemble the heads as follows: (See Figure 64.) (1) Coat the exhaust valve stems with engine oil and insert in the head. Install the valve springs and retainer. (2) Compress the valve springs, using Tool C-3428, as shown in Figure 47. Now, install valve locks, then remove tool. (3) Coat the intake valve stems with clean engine oil and slide into position in the head. Slide the valve stem seal over stem and down against valve guide. (The seals will automatically seat themselves in correct position when the engine is first run.)

x758A

Fig. 63-Check¡ng Valve Stem Position (D500)

pressed to 1 ‰ inch. Discard springs that do not meet the above requirement. If valves and/or seats are reground, check the installed height of the springs. A thin metal scale maybe used. Make sure that scale is inserted to the full depth of counterbore in cylinder head. Measure to spring seat surface of retainer. If the height is over P ‰ inch, install a ¾ 6 inch spacer (part No. 1400482) in the head counterbore to bring the spring height back to normal lVs to U¾e inches. Whenever new valves are installed, remove the hydraulic tappets lifting those valves, and clean as described under Servicing the Hydraulic Tappet paragraph 2 0 . When simply grinding valves, it is not necessary to clean tappets provided all parts of each valve train are returned to their original position. When valves and seats are reground, the position of the valve in the head is changed so as to shorten the operating length of the hydraulic tappet. This means that the plunger is operating closer to its bottom position, and less clearance is available for the thermal expansion of the valve mechanism during high speed driving.

SEAL

RETAINERS

LOCKS

54x336A Fig. 64—Valves, Springs, Seal and Retainer (Exploded View)

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO

133

DOWEL HOLES EXHAUST VALVE

INTAKE VALVE

INNER SPRING

\ \

SEAL

154x340• Fig. 65—Cylinder Head Locating Dowels EXHAUST VALVE SPRING SEAT

(4) Install the valve springs and retainers. Using Tool C-3428# compress the valve spring and install the 4-bead floating locks. (If so equipped.) Remove the Tool. Assemble the remaining head in like manner. Install the cylinder heads on the block, using new gaskets. B e sure the cylinder h e a d s a r e properly installed o v e r the locating d o w e l s , shown in Figure 6 5 . Cylinder h e a d g a s k e t s must be installed right side u p — h o l e s don't line up otherwise. (5) Insert the cylinder head attaching bolts, then using a torque wrench, start at the top center and tighten the head bolts in sequence, to 85 foot-pounds, as shown in Figure 66.

Cylinder Head Reassembly (D5OO) After all parts of the cylinder heads have been checked

INTAKE VALVE SPRING SEATVALVE LOCKS 5ix93OB

Fig. 67—Valves, Springs and Seats (D5OO) (Exploded View)

and corrected, refer to Figure 67 and reassemble the cylinder heads as follows: (1) Coat the exhaust valve stems with lubricating oil and insert in head. Install the inner and outer valve springs and seats, as shown in Figure 68. (2) Compress the valve springs with Tool C-3023, as shown in Figure 69, then install valve locks and release tool. EXHAUST VALVE OUTER SPRING A N D SEAT.

OIL PRESSURE PASSAGE TO ROCKER ARMS

VALVE STEM L O C K S ^ - - ~ s ,

x34i Fig. 66—Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts

51X723

. 68—Installing Exhaust Valve Inner and Outer Springs and Seats

134

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

VALVE STEM LOCKS

51x724

× 7 2 7 a H H H C Y L i N D E R HEAD LOCATING DOWELS

Fig. 69—Installing Exhaust Valve Stem Locks

Fig. 72—Cylinder Head Gasket Installed

SPRING SEAT

OH/PRESSURE PASSAGE TO ROCKER A R M S

OUTER'SPRING VALVE STEM LOCKS'

51 x725A

Fig. 70—Installing Intake, Seal, Inner and Outer Valve Springs and Seats

j DOWEL

Fig. 73—Cylinder Head Locating Dowels

(3) Coat the intake valve stems with lubricating oil, then insert in position in the head. Install the seal, inner and outer valve springs and seats, as shown in Figure 70. (4) Compress the valve springs with Tool C-3023 as shown in Figure 71. Assemble the remaining head in like manner, then install the cylinder heads on block, using new head gaskets, as shown in Figure 72. B e s u r e t h e c y l i n d e r

heads are properly installed over the locating dowels, as shown in Figure 73.

VALVE STEM LOCKS' Fig. 71—Installing Valve Stem Locks (Intake)

28. ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY If the rocker arm assemblies of the Red Ram or Super Red Ram Engine have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection or the installation of new parts, they should be assembled in the following manner:

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO (1) Hold the rocker arm shaft and the end bracket in a horizontal position with the oil g r o o v e s f a c i n g down. (The stamped arrow on the tube indicates the oversize bolt hole—upper side only.) Slide an intake rocker arm over shaft and down against the bracket, with the diagonal slant of the arm close to the bracket, a s shown in Figure 74. (2) Now, slide a spacer spring over shaft and down against intake rocker arm. Next, slide an exhaust rocker arm over shaft and down against spacer spring, fol-

135

lowed by a shaft bracket. (3) Continue to slide first an intake rocker arm, then a spacer spring followed by an exhaust rocker arm and bracket, over shaft until the last bracket has been installed. (4) Now, slide the push rods into the push rod holes in the cylinder heads. (5) Be sure that the rocker arms are in a horizontal position, then lower the rocker shaft assembly down on the two locating studs on the head. Install flatwashers

EXHAUST VALVE ROCKERS

BRACKET

INTAKE VALVE ROLLERS 54x342

Rocker Shaft Assembly (Exploded View)

ROCKER ARM TUBE BRACKETS

OIL HOLES AND GROOVES EXHAUST ROCKER ARM TUBE

INTAKE ROCKER ARM TUBE INTAKE ROCKER ARMS PUSH ROD RECESS (INTAKE) PUSH ROD RECESS (EXHAUST) EXHAUST ROCKER ARMS SPACER SPRINGS

5lx935A Fig. 74—Rocker Arm Assembly (Exploded View) (D5OO)

136

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

TUBE

INTAKE PUSH RODS

VALVE STEM OIL HOLES

RELIEF OIL HOLES COTTER PINS

51x936

Rocker Arm Assembly—Top View

51x7281

Fig. 76—Push Rods Installed in Head

LUBRICATING OIL HOLE FROM No 2 OR No 4 CAMSHAFT BEARING

PUSH ROD OIL HOLES

51x937

760 A

Fig. 75—Rocker Arm Assembly—Bottom View

Fig. 77—Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts

and nuts. Extreme care must be taken in tightening the rocker shaft attaching bolts and nuts so that the tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods, broken rocker arms or permanent noisy operation will result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly. (6) Tighten the rocker shaft assembly attaching bolts slowly, starting at the center bolt and working alternately to each end. Torque to 30 foot-pounds.

(2) Slide a spacer spring over tube marked "IN," then install an intake rocker arm on tube, with the push rod recess toward the exhaust tube. The intake rocker arms a r e smaller or shorter than the exhaust rocker arms. (3) Install an exhaust rocker arm on "EX" tube, then a spacer spring. (4) Install the rocker tube bracket with the oil inlet hole in the boss (hole should be on the outside of the "IN" tube). (5) Slide a spacer spring on the "IN" tube and then install the next intake rocker arm. (6) Install the next exhaust rocker arm and spacer spring on the "EX" tube. Of the three rocker tube brackets left, notice the one with the cotter pin holes drilled through the tube bores. This is the last bracket to b e installed. (7) Install the next rocker arm bracket, then slide a spacer spring on the "IN" tube.

Rocker Arm Assemblies (D500) If the rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection or replacement of worn or damaged parts, they may be assembled as follows: (1) Refer to Figures 74 and 75, then set tubes and bracket on bench in vertical position. (Both rocker arm tubes are stamped "IN" for intake and "EX" for exhaust.)

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO (8) Install the next exhaust rocker arm on the "EX" tube, followed by a spacer spring. (9) Install next intake rocker arm on the "IN" tube. Now slide the next rocker arm tube bracket over tube and slide down to position. Repeat steps 5 and 6 above, then install the last rocker arm tube bracket and secure the assembly with cotter pins. Assemble the remaining rocker arm assembly in like manner. (10) Insert the cylinder head bolts into the brackets, with the short bolts to the intake side. (11) Insert the push rods through the push rod holes in the heads. (The short rods in the upper holes (intake) and the long rods in the lower holes (exhaust) in the heads, as shown in Figure 76.) (12) Place rocker arm assemblies in position on the heads, lining up all push rods to their respective rocker arms. Starting at the top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts with a torque wrench to 85 foot-pounds, as shown in Figure 77. When tappets are full (on the D5OO) extreme care must be taken in tightening head bolts so that tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies and permanent noisy operation will result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

29.

INSTALLING THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY AND HUB

Refer to Figure 78, then proceed as follows: (1) Insert the pulley hub key in the slot in the crankshaft, then position a new dust seal in the hub of the pulley and slide the assembly over the crankshaft. (2) Place installing Tool, (part of puller set C-3033) in position, then insert the pulley flatwasher between the tool and hub. (See Figure 79.) Press the pulley on shaft until seated.

137

J FLAT WASHER INSTALLING TOOL

54x345

Fig. 79—Installing the Crankshaft Pulley (or Vibration Damper Hub) and Hub

(3) Remove the tool and install the pulley washer and retaining bolt. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds.

Installing Vibration Damper (D5OO) Refer to Figure 80, then proceed as follows: (1) Insert the damper hub key in the crankshaft keyway, then position a new dust seal over hub. Slide seal and hub over crankshaft and engage key. (2) Place installing tool, (part of puller set C-3033) in position and press damper hub on crankshaft until seated. (Figure 79 typical.) (3) Remove tool, then install damper and pulley over hub, being sure to align attaching holes. Install bolts and lockwashers, then tighten from 15 to 17 foot-pounds. (4) Install hub retainer washer and bolt. Tighten from 130 to 140 foot-pounds. DUST SEAL

PULLEY AND HUB DAMPER

PULLEY

HUB

BOLT LOCK WASHER FLAT WASHER 51x761

Fig. 78—Crankshaft Pulley, Hub and Seal (Exploded View)

51x980

RETAINER WASHER

Fig. 80—Vibration Damper Assembly (Exploded View) (D5OO)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

138 30.

INSTALLING WATER PUMP HOUSING AND WATER PUMP

(1) Coat new water pump housing gaskets with a suitable sealer and place in position against the cylinder block and heads. (2) Place the water pump housing in position and secure with bolts and lockwashers. Tighten bolts with a torque wrench to 30 foot-pounds. (3) Coat a new water pump body gasket with a suitable sealer, then place in position against the housing. (4) Install the water pump assembly with the drain slot down. Secure with bolts and lockwashers and tighten to 30 foot-pounds.

Refer to Section 6 Cooling, for the Servicing of the Water Pump. (5) Test the thermostat as described in Section 6 Cooling, then install in water pump housing. (6) Coat a new thermostat gasket with a suitable sealer, and install over thermostat. Install the water outlet tube and secure with bolts and lockwashers. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds. (7) Coat a new fuel pump gasket, using a suitable sealer, then place in position on the chain case cover. Insert the fuel pump rocker arm (top side of cam) straight into opening. Install bolts and lockwashers and tighten to 30 foot-pounds. For Fuel Pump Servicing Refer to Fuel System. 3 1 . REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING It is advisable to remove and install the distributor drive shaft lower bushing when the engine is completely overhauled. A worn bushing can cause erratic distributor operation which will affect car performance.

To remove and install the distributor lower drive shaft bushing, proceed as follows: (1) Insert Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained. Holding the puller head with a wrench, tighten puller bolt and pull bushing out of bore in the block, as shown in Figure 81. (2) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Tool C-3053, as shown in Figure 81, then insert tool and bushing into bore of block. (3) Drive the bushing and tool down into position using a soft hammer. As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by pressure applied by tightening the puller nut, the tool swedges the bushing tight in its bore and burnishes to the correct size. DO NOT REAM

THIS BUSHING! 32.

DISTRIBUTOR BASIC TIMING

Before installing the distributor lower drive shaft gear, it will be necessary to time the engine as follows: (1) Rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (firing position). When in this position, the pointer on the chain case cover should be over "DC" on the drive pulley. (2) Using Tool C-3027, position the oil pump shaft so that it lines up with the slot in the drive gear, as shown in Figure 82. (3) Coat the shaft of the drive gear with engine oil, then install so that as the gear spirals into position, it will index with the oil pump shaft and the slot in the top of the drive gear will be parallel with the centerline of the crankcase, as shown in Figure 82.

32. DISTRIBUTOR BASIC TIMING Turn the crankshaft until No. 1 intake valve is closed. Insert a .210 inch spacer between the rocker arm and stem of No. 1 intake valve. (This can be done by prying between the rocker arm and the valve spring retainer with a large screwdriver.)

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEARS

REMOVING

INSTALLING

51x982

Fig. 81â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removing and Installing the Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

Fig. 82â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Distributor (Basic) Timing

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO Install a dial indicator so that the pointer contacts the valve spring seat as nearly at a right angle as possible. Wait until the seat stops moving. This indicates that the oil has bled out of the hydraulic tappet and the plunger has bottomed, giving the effect of a solid tappet. Set the dial indicator on zero and then turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until the dial indicator shows that the valve has lifted .024 inch. The timing on the crankshaft pulley should now read from 5Â° before top dead center to 7Â° after top dead center. If the reading is over the specified limits, check the gear indexing marks and the timing chain for wear. Before making this check, it is well to check the accuracy of the TDC mark on the pulley by bringing the No. 1 piston to top dead center by means of an indicator placed in the spark plug opening. After the valve timing has been checked, turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the tappet is back down to the valve closed position, then remove the .210 inch spacer from between the rocker arm and valve stem. WARNING: Under no condition, should the crankshaft be turned further in clockwise direction, as the spacer might cause the valve spring to bottom and damage the valve operating mechanism. Continue to Assemble the Engine as follows: (1) Install the exhaust manifolds on the cylinder heads, using new gaskets. Tighten nuts to 25 footpounds. (2) Place a new tappet chamber gasket in position, then install the tappet chamber cover. Tighten the attaching bolts to 50 inch-pounds (35 to 45 D5OO). (3) Install new rocker cover gaskets, then place rocker covers in position and secure with nuts. Be sure the rubber insulator is in correct position. On the D5OO, install new rocker cover gaskets, then place rocker covers in position and secure with nuts and bolts. Tighten with a torque wrench from 25 to 30 inchpounds. (4) Slide new spark plug gaskets over plugs, after checking plug gap. The spark plug gap should be .035 inch. Insert the plugs and gaskets into the cylinder heads and tighten to 30 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and Tool C-3054. On the D5OO, slide the spark plug tube seals over tubes, then secure a new set of spark plugs and check the gaps for .035 inch. Slide plugs into tubes, being careful not to allow the electrodes to hit against the bottom of tubes. Slide the spark plug tubes, seals and spark plugs into heads, as shown in Figure 83. Tighten from 30 to 32 foot-pounds, using Tool C-3054.

139

I M : 5ix394B Fig. 83â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installing Spark Plugs

(5) Install the intake manifold, using new gaskets. Insert bolts and lockwashers and tighten to 30 footpounds. On the D5OO, place the distributor vacuum tube in position, then install the intake manifold, using new gaskets. Tighten bolts from 25 to 30 foot-pounds. (6) Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on the cylinder block, with the vacuum chamber pointing toward the right hand cylinder bank. Turn the rotor until it points forward and to the approximate location of the No. 1 insert in the cap (Red cover). Now, turn the rotor counter-clockwise until the break contacts are separating. Place the distributor oil seal ring in position, then lower the distributor and engage in the slot in the top of the drive gear. (Be sure and hold the rotor in position.) Secure with clamp and bolt. Tighten securely. (7) Install the distributor cap and spark plug cables. Engage the ends of the cables to the plugs, then connect the coil. On the D5OO, place the spark plug tube seal washers in position, then install the distributor cap, cables and insulators. Engage insulators with the spark plugs and connect the coil, as shown in Figure 84. Install the spark plug cable covers, after neatly arranging the spark plug cables. Tighten screws securely. (8) Place a new gasket on the intake manifold, then lower the carburetor (or carburetors) down on the studs. Install nuts and tighten securely. (9) Install the fuel tube between the carburetor and fuel pump, then insert the vacuum tube in position and tighten all connections securely. Install the oil gauge tube. (10) Place the cross-over choke and thermostatic coil spring assembly into its well in the intake manifold with

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

140

The engine now has been completely assembled, with the exception of the transmission and carburetor air cleaner. Install the engine in the vehicle as follows:

34. ENGINE INSTALLATION

U£NITION Fig. 84—Ignition System Installed

the choke control rod toward front of engine. Install bolts and tighten securely. Engage choke control rod with choke lever and secure with clip. (11) Install the generator and mounting bracket to the exhaust manifold, and the adjusting strap. Tighten bolts securely. Now, install the oil tube air cleaner. (12) Install the fan pulley, spacer and blades. Tighten bolts to 15 foot-pounds, then slide the fan and generator belts over pulleys and adjust as follows:

Fan and Generator Belt Adjustment Adjust the fan and generator belt on the standard cars as follows: (13) Loosen the adjusting bracket and pivot bolts and pull the generator outward to take up slack. (14) Install Tool C-3379 in position, then affix torque wrench. Pull torque wrench to 15 foot-pounds and, while holding in this position, tighten the adjusting bracket bolt securely. Retighten pivot bolts securely. For belt adjustment on cars equipped with Hydraulic Steering or Car Cooling, refer to the Power Steering or Air Conditioning Sections of this manual. (15) Install the starting motor and tighten the attaching nuts to 55 foot-pounds. (16) Install the oil filter base, using a new gasket. Tighten bolts to 25 foot-pounds. Install a new filter element, shell and new gasket. Tighten the center bolt securely. (17) Install the crankcase breather pipe and new gasket, then secure with bolt and lockwasher. Install bolt and lockwasher through breather pipe clamp and secure to clutch or converter housing. (18) Insert the oil level dip stick tube in position and down into block, (if removed). Insert the dip stick. For Servicing the oil filter, refer to Engine Lubrication Section.

To install the engine assembly in the car, remove the engine from the repair stand and mount the transmission, then proceed as follows: If using the e n g i n e lifter p l a t e Tool C¯3162, it will b e n e c e s s a r y to omit steps 8, 9 a n d 10 of e n g i n e assembly. Fasten the e n g i n e lifter p l a t e s e c u r e l y to the carburetor mounting flange. (1) Using a suitable overhead hoist, suspend the engine assembly over the engine compartment. (The engine must be tilted at an angle, slanting downward at the rear). (2) Lower the engine (being careful not to damage the accessories or the vehicle), on to the front mounts. Install the bolts to hold the engine in alignment. (3) Holding the engine with the overhead hoist, place a jack under the transmission to support the rear end of the engine, then install the rear engine support crossmember and secure with bolts. After the crossmember has been installed, remove the jack and relieve the hoist. (4) Remove the engine lifter plate and install the carburetor as described in steps 8, 9 and 10. (5) Install the radiator and connect the radiator hoses. Close all draincocks (one on each side of the block and the radiator). (6) Connect the usual items under the hood, such as fuel lines, heat indicator and thermocouple, heater tubes, electrical wiring and the oil pressure gauge. (7) Reinstall the hood and battery. (8) Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds, using new gaskets. (9) Reconnect the wires and linkage at the transmission and clutch (if so equipped). (10) Reconnect the propeller shaft to the transmission. (11) With draincocks closed and cylinder block plugs installed, refill the cooling system. (Capacity: Red Ram and Super Red Ram 20 qts.) If the car is equipped with a heater, add an additional quart. Check the entire system for leaks, and correct if necessary. (12) Refill the engine crankcase with 5 quarts of SAE 10W engine oil. (Refer to Lubrication Section for breakin of new or rebuilt engine). (Plus 1 qt. for filter). (13) Reinstall the carburetor air cleaner. (14) Start the engine and warm up to 160° F., then check the distributor timing as described in the Electrical Section 7, then retorque head bolts. (15) Adjust the carburetor as described in the Fuel Section.

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO

OUTER ROTOR

141

INNER ROTOR

PUMP BODY

SEAL RING STRAINER AND SUCTION PIPE

SEAL RING

OUTER ROTOR

FEELER STOCK

PLUG PLUNGER SPRING

INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT

» ` ^ . ; Ü 57x1251

Fig. 87—Measuring Clearance Over Pump Rotors

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER COVER

LOCKWASHER

PLUG COVER BOLT

57x123

Fig. 85—Oil Pump (Exploded View)

35.

SERVICING THE OIL PUMP

After removing the oil pump from the engine, the pump should be disassembled, cleaned and inspected for wear or damage. To disassemble the oil pump, refer to Figure 85, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the oil suction pipe and strainer from the pump body, by twisting pipe counter-clockwise. (2) Remove the oil pump cover bolts and lockwashers and lift off the cover. Discard the oil seal rings. (3) Remove the pump rotor and shaft, then lift out the pump rotor body. ¢4) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug, and lift out the spring and plunger. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent, then inspect carefully for damage or wear. STRAIGHT EDGE

36.

OIL PUMP INSPECTION

The mating face of the oil pump cover should be smooth. If the cover is scratched or grooved, it should be discarded and a new one installed. Check for excessive cover to rotor wear, by laying a straight edge across the cover surface, as shown in Figure 86. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straight edge, the cover should be discarded and a new one installed. Measure the diameter and thickness of the rotor body. If the rotor body measures less than .998 inch and the diameter less than 2.244 inches, install a new rotor body. Measure the thickness of the pump rotor. If the pump rotor measures less than .998 inch, a new pump rotor should be installed. Slide the rotor body and rotor into pump body and then place a straight edge across the face (between bolt holes), as shown in Figure 87. If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between rotors and straight edge, install a new pump body. Remove the pump rotor and shaft, leaving rotor body in pump cavity. Press the rotor body to one side with the fingers and measure the clearance between the rotor

PUMP BODY

OUTER ROTOR

FEELER STOCK 57x126 FEELER STOCK

F¡g. 86—Checking Oil Pump Cover

Fig. 88—Measuring Clearance Between Rotor Body and Pump Body

142

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

FEELER STOCK

STRAIGHT EDGE

FILTER SHELL

`WÊÊM? 57x127

Fig. 89—Measuring Clearance Between Pump Rotors

and pump bodies, as shown in Figure 88. If the measurement is more than .012 inch, install a new oil pump body. (This check is not necessary if a new pump body is being used.) Check the clearance between the pump rotor and rotor body, as shown in Figure 89. If measurement is more than .010 inch, install a new pump rotor and rotor body. Check the oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring and for free operation in its bore. If the plunger is scored, install new plunger. When assembling the oil pump, be sure and use a new oil seals ring between the cover and body. Tighten cover bolts to a torque 10 foot-pounds. (1) Prime the oil pump, then place a new oil seal to the rear main bearing cap. Tighten bolts with a torque wrench to 35 foot-pounds. (See Paragraph 19# of this section.)

SHELL GASKET

FILTER ELEMENT -(CARTRIDGE)

M O U N T I N G BOLT ,LOCKWASHER

37.

SERVICING THE OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE The oil pressure relief valve is located in the oil pump body (see Figure 85), and consists of a plunger, spring and plug. To inspect the oil pressure relief valve, it will be necessary to remove the oil pan (engine in car), unscrew the plug and remove the spring and plunger. Remove any dirt or foreign material, clean thoroughly. If the plunger shows signs of scoring, or binds in the bore, install a new plunger, then test the spring. The spring should conform to the specifications listed above. If, for any reason, the spring has to be replaced, the same color spring should be used.

OIL FILTER BASE

M O U N T I N G GASKET

5lx7l5A

F¡g. 90—Shunt Type Filter (Exploded View)

RELIEF VALVE SPRING CHART Color Gray (Light) Red (Standard) Brown (Heavy)

Free Height

Undei-Load Height

2¼6" 2½e"

2 2 ‰" Ì2"

Tension Pounds 16.1 — 17.1 19.5 — 20.5 22.9 — 23.9

ENGINE-RED R A M , SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO

143

Cases excepted, are where the oil pressure is either above or below the required 60 pounds per square inch. The valve chart spring shows the springs available for installation, depending on the condition existing. Before reinstalling the pump, refer to Ignition Timing (basic) Paragraph 32. of this Section, for correct position of related parts. 38. SHUNT TYPE OIL FILTER To remove the shunt type filter from the engine, it will be necessary to remove the filter shell. (See Figure 90.) Loosen the shell retaining center stud nut and stud, then lift off shell and center stud. Grasp the wire handle of the filter element and lift away from engine. This will expose the mounting bolts that hold the filter base to the cylinder block. Remove bolts and lift filter base away from block. When reinstalling the filter, use new gaskets.

54x353

Red Ram and Super Red Ram

39. CRANKCASE VENTILATION (See Figure 91)

The crankcase ventilation system is designed to remove harmful fumes from the crankcase and to prevent condensation of these fumes which would cause excessive dilution of the lubricating oil. The ventilation is accomplished by drawing off the fumes or vapors through the crankcase ventilator pipe at the rear of the engine. Fresh air enters through the oil filler pipe, which carries an air cleaner to remove dirt and dust from the air before it enters the crankcase. The only attention the crankcase ventilation system requires, is to clean the oil filler tube air cleaner periodically. (Refer to the Lubrication Section 13 for procedure.)

Fig. 92—Check for Tappet Noise at Rocker Arm (D5OO)

40. HYDRAULIC TAPPETS The hydraulic tappets are designed for efficient and

guiet operation for an indefinite period of time. No special attention is necessary unless conditions warrant.

MOUNTING BOLT LOCKWASHER VENTILATOR OUTLET PIPE •GASKET

TAPPET CHAMBER COVER

51 x766

Fig. 91—Crankcase Ventilation

41.

PRELIMINARY TO CHECKING HYDRAULIC TAPPETS(In the Car) Before disassembling any part of the engine to check for tappet noise, check the oil pressure at the gauge and the oil level in the oil pan. The pressure should be between 40 to 65 pounds at 1500 RPM. The oil level in the pan should n e v e r be a b o v e the "full" mark on the dip stick, nor below the "add" oil mark. Either of the two conditions referred toƒ could be responsible for noisy tappets.

42. TAPPET NOISES Determining the location of noise — To determine the location of a tappet noise, first remove the rocker covers and run the engine at a speed where noise is most pronounced. Next feel each valve spring

144

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

VALVE SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL

r_ J54x354 Red Ram and Super Red Ram

Fig. 94—Compressing the Valve Spring (D500)

in Paragraph 43 for removal of the suspected unit or units only. Tappets functioning properly should be left in the engine. Replace the tappet or tappets found to be noisy with new units. Do not attempt to repair a noisy tappet by cleaning as such is seldom, if ever, the cause of its being noisy. This procedure is most advisable as the task of removal and installation more than justifies the cost of a new tappet. 43.

F¡g. 93—Applying Side Pressure Against Valve Springs (D500)

or rocker arm, as shown in Figure 92. The noisy tappet can readily be detected by the feel. In cases of light noise only, the use of a .015 inch feeler gauge inserted between the rocker arm and valve tip will provide a noticeable change in noise level. To check for excessively worn valve guides for cocked springs, apply side thrust on the valve springs as shown in Figure 93. Determine the source of noise — Tappet noises, or noisy valve seating, frequently is caused by other than hydraulic tappet malfunction. To most efficiently service a tappet noise after locating the noisy tappet is to check the Diagnosis section for the possible cause. Servicing the Tappet Noise — If other than a hydraulic tappet is determined to be the source of noise, replace worn or failed parts as necessary. When, on the other hand, it has been determined that the hydraulic tappet is at fault follow the procedure outlined

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE HYDRAULIC TAPPET-(ln the Car) To remove the hydraulic tappets for cleaning or the installation of new units, it will be necessary to first remove the intake manifold, and the tappet chamber cover. (The rocker covers were removed during the tappet checking procedure.) Now, remove the hydraulic tappets as follows: (1) Remove the three bolts, two nuts and flatwashers that hold the single rocker shafts to the heads, then lift rocker shafts and arms straight up and away from the heads. Remove the push rods and place in their respective slots in Holder C-3068. On the D500, install the rocker arm and spring compressing Tool C-3024, over the rocker arm, as shown in Figure 94, so the heel of the tool rests on the valve stem side. Make certain the valve is seated and the tappet body is resting on the low point of the camshaft lobe. Using the handle of the tool for leverage, compress the valve springs sufficiently to raise the rocker arm above the push rod end. While holding the rocker arm in position, slide the rocker arm to one side along the tube, then remove the push rod. WARNING: To avoid damag-

145

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM AND D5OO ing the valves, be sure that the piston head is well below the top of travel, before compressing the valve springs. To determine position of the piston, the following procedures should be followed : Remove distributor cap, noting position of rotor for Nos. 1 and 6 cylinders. Set timing mark "DC" located on the crankshaft pulley to the pointer. With rotor at No. 1 firing position, the following tappets will be on the low side of the cam lobe: 2—intake 7—intake 2—exhaust 8—intake 4—exhaust 8—exhaust To remove No. 1 intake and exhaust tappet, rotate the crankshaft ¼ turn clockwise from above position after removing the tappets listed. With rotor at No. 6 firing position, the following tappets will be on the low side of the cam lobes: 3—Intake 5—Intake 3—Exhaust 5—Exhaust 4—Intake 7—Exhaust To r e m o v e N o . 6 i n t a k e a n d exhaust tappet, rotate t h e crankshaft ¼ turn clockwise from a b o v e position after r e m o v i n g t h e t a p pets listed. (2) Drain the cooling system to a point below the level of the intake manifold. (3) Remove the carburetor air cleaner and gasket. (4) Disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines at the carburetor. (5) Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the carburetor. (6) Disconnect the coil wires. (7) Remove the heat indicator to thermocouple wire at the intake manifold, then disconnect the heater hose. (8) Remove the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. (9) Lift the intake manifold, carburetor and coil straight up and away from engine. Discard the gaskets. After the intake manifold has been removed, cover the intake ports in the cylinder heads with masking tape to prevent nuts, bolts, and lockwashers or other material of small nature from being dropped into the openings. (10) Remove the crankcase ventilator pipe and gasket. (11) Remove the bolts that hold the tappet chamber cover to the cylinder block. Lift cover up and away from engine. Discard the gaskets. (12) Insert the hooked portion of Tool C-3158 into the hole in the tappet body, as shown in Figure 95. (This portion of the tool can be used to remove tappets without a varnish buildup (low mileage) around the

I 54x355

F¡g. 95—Removing Tappet from Bore

lower part of the tappet body. Lift tappet out of bore, if the tappets stick in the bores, proceed as follows: (13) Slide the puller portion of Tool C-3158 through the cylinder head (push rod) openings and seat firmly in cap of tappet. (14) Insert the puller pin through the tappet body and tool shaft in the holes provided. Grasp the tool handle and slowly pull the tappet out of the bore with a sharp twisting motion. As the tappet clears the bore, withdraw the puller pin and then the puller tool, then lift tappet out of tappet chamber. (See Figure 96.) (15) Discard tappets found to be noisy and install new units as required (see Paragraph 43). When installing new or cleaned tappets in the engine, fill the unit with light engine oil to avoid excessive time required to bleed the air out of the cleaned units, and to provide lubrication.

x997B

Fig. 96—Removing Tappet with Tool C-3158

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

146 Reassemble the Engine as Follows:

(1) Install the hydraulic tappets and the push rods. (2) Be sure all the rocker arms are in a horizontal position, then lower the rocker shaft assembly down on the two locating studs on each head. Install the flatwashers and nuts. Now, insert the flatwashers and bolts at each end and the center of the rocker shaft assembly. Extreme c a r e must b e t a k e n i n tightening t h e r o c k e r shaft a t t a c h i n g bolts a n d nuts s o that the tappets h a v e time to b l e e d d o w n to their o p e r a t i n g l e n g t h . B u l g e d tappet bodies, bent p u s h rods a n d b r o k e n r o c k e r a r m s a n d perm a n e n t noisy o p e r a t i o n will result if the t a p pets a r e forced d o w n too r a p i d l y . (3) Tighten the rocker shaft assembly attaching bolts slowly, starting at the center bolt and working alternately to each end. Torque to 30 foot-pounds. On t h e D 5 0 0 , install t h e h y d r a u l i c tappets that h a v e b e e n r e m o v e d for c h e c k i n g , a n d the push rods. Position t h e rocker a r m s o it is p a r t i a l l y s e a t e d o n the v a l v e stem. Install Tool C-3024 a n d compress the v a l v e stem a n d springs until t h e r o c k e r a r m c a n b e slid into position o v e r the push rod. R e m o v e tool. (4) Install the tappet chamber cover, using a new gasket. Tighten bolts to 50 inch-pounds. (5) Install the crankcase ventilator pipe and gasket, then tighten to 15 inch-pounds. Remove the masking tape from the intake ports. (6) Place new gaskets in position, then install the intake manifold, carburetor and ignition coil as a unit. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 30 foot-pounds. (7) Connect the heater hose, if so equipped. (8) Reconnect the ignition coil wires. (9) Connect the accelerator linkage at the carburetor. (10) Reconnect the fuel and vacuum tubes at the carburetor. (11) Install the fan belt and readjust. (12) Install the carburetor Air Cleaner and gasket. (13) Refill the cooling system, then start the engine and warm up to 160Â° F. To prevent damage to the valve mechanism, the engine must not be run above a fast idle until all the hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and become quiet. Check operation of hydraulic tappets and if satisfactory, install the rocker covers, using new gaskets.

44.

SERVICING THE CYLINDER HEADS

Before removing either of the cylinder heads, check the compression of each cylinder, to determine the condition of the valves and piston rings. Before any compression checks are made, the engine should be run until it reaches normal operating temperature. The battery should be checked to see that it is in a fully

charged condition. It is good practice to loosen all spark plugs slightly and run the engine briefly before starting the compression check. The procedure aids in cleaning out any carbon deposits broken off the spark plug ends. If the compression varies more than 15 pounds between cylinders, or has dropped below 90 pounds per cylinder with a full open throttle, attention to the valves, or piston rings can be considered necessary. If the compression pressure is border line, it is well to run the engine a short time and then recheck the compression. Frequently, a small particle of foreign material, which may become lodged on the valve seat, causes a low reading. The particles may then be blown off by the operation of the engine.

45.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CYLINDER HEADS

(1) Drain the cooling system. (2) Remove the carburetor air cleaner and gasket. (3) Loosen the generator belt, then remove the generator. (4) Disconnect the fuel and vacuum tubes at the carburetor. (5) Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the carburetor throttle lever. (6) Disconnect the ignition coil wires. (7) Remove the heat indicator thermocouple. (8) Disconnect the heater hose. (9) Remove the bolts that hold the water pump housing to the cylinder heads. (10) Remove the intake manifold attaching bolts and lockwashers. (11) Now, lift the intake manifold, carburetor and coil straight up and away from engine. (12) Disconnect the spark plug ignition cables from manifold flanges. (13) Disconnect the spark plug ignition cables from the spark plugs. Disengage from clamp on rocker covers, then remove distributor cap and cables. On the D500, remove the ignition cable covers, ignition cables and cylinder head rocker covers. (14) Remove the nuts, washers and insulators that hold the rocker covers to the cylinder heads. Lift covers up and away from heads. (15) Remove three bolts, two nuts and flatwashers that hold the single rocker shafts to the heads. Now, lift rocker shafts and arms straight up and away from heads. Remove push rods and place in their respective slots in Holder C-3068. On the D500, remove the rocker arm assembly, after loosening the attaching bolts. The rocker a r m a s sembly attaching bolts also hold the cylinder heads to the block. When these bolts are removed, the cylinder heads are loose and are

ENGINE-RED RAM, SUPER RED RAM A N D D5OO held only by two dowel pins. Refer to Figure 73. (16) Remove ten bolts on each bank of cylinders that hold the cylinder heads to the block. lift the cylinder heads up and away from block. Immediately attach the cylinder head holding fixture C-3209, to prevent damage to the machined head surface. It m a y b e n e c e s s a r y to remove the exhaust manifolds before installing the holding fixtures. Refer to Paragraph 24 of this Section. 46.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CHAIN CASE COVER OIL SEAL (1) Remove drain plugs and drain the cooling system, then disconnect the water hoses. (2) Disengage the fan belt, then remove the generator. (3) Remove the bolts that hold the radiator to the support. Lift radiator up and away from vehicle. Now, remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and flatwasher. (4) Slide the pulley off end of crankshaft. Remove the key. (5) Remove the fan blades and hub, then remove the bolts that hold the water pump housing to the cylinder block and heads. Lift the water pump housing and water pump, up and away from front of engine. Discard the gaskets. (6) Loosen the bolts that hold the oil pan to the cylinder block. Now, drop the pan slightly to clear the chain case cover. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines at the fuel pump. Remove the bolts that hold the pump to the chain case cover. Slide pump out away from engine. Discard the gasket. (7) Remove the bolts and washers that hold the chain case cover to the cylinder block. Disengage cover from locating dowels and remove from front of engine. Discard the gasket. (8) Remove and install the chain case cover oil seal, as described in Paragraph 11 of this section, steps 5 through 12. To install the chain case cover, proceed a s follows: (9) Clean both surfaces of the cylinder block and the chain case cover, then install a new gasket. Make certain that the crankshaft oil slinger is in the proper position (flange end pointing toward seal). (10) Position the chain case cover on the two locating dowel pins and then gently tap the cover in place. (11) Refer to Figure 30, then coat the bolts with a suitable sealer, then install. Tighten bolts to 15 footpounds. (12) Install the water pump housing and pump, using new gaskets. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 30 foot-pounds. Now, install the fuel pump in the chain case cover, using a new gasket. Install bolts and tighten

147

securely. Connect the fuel inlet and outlet lines to the pump. Tighten connections securely. (13) Place the crankshaft pulley key in slot in the crankshaft, then install the pulley and flatwasher. Affix Tool C-3033 and press pulley on crankshaft, a s shown in Figure 79. Remove the Tool and install the pulley retaining bolt. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds. (14) Install the fan blades and pulley. (15) Now, tighten the oil pan attaching bolts evenly with a torque wrench to 20 foot-pounds. (16) Install the radiator and water hoses. Secure hoses with clamps. (17) Reinstall the generator, then place fan belt over pulleys and adjust. Due to great decrease in new belt tension, it is recommended that the belt be adjusted after the first 1000 miles of operation. If such is not done, slippage, belt squeal on acceleration, or reduced water pump or generator efficiency, may result. (18) Replace drainplugs, then refill the cooling system. (19) Start engine and warm up to 160Â° F., then check for leaks. 47.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF ENGINE OIL PAN (1) Remove the oil level indicator (dip stick). (2) Remove the crankcase plug and drain the lubricating oil. (3) Disconnect the steering linkage at the idler arm support bracket, and allow linkage to settle away from bottom of oil pan. Remove starting motor. (4) Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley are at approximately 5:00 o'clock position. (This will place the counterweights on the crankshaft up in the block and out of the way.) Now, remove the bolts that hold the oil pan to the cylinder block, then drop rear of pan as far as possible and work out from over top of crossmember. (Dual exhaust equipment.) If the car is equipped with a single exhaust system, remove the oil pan as follows: (1) Drain the oil pan, then disconnect the "Y" pipe at the right and left hand exhaust manifolds. Remove the heat control valve. Then place timing marks at 5:00 o'clock position. (2) Loosen the tail pipe and rear muffler support clamps. Remove the clamp that connects the exhaust pipe to the "Y" pipe. Pull exhaust system rearwards to break the exhaust to "Y" pipe connection. Work the "Y" pipe out of the way. (If replacing the "Y" pipe, remove the right hand torsion bar. Refer to Front Suspension Section.) (3) Remove the starting motor, then disconnect the

148

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

steering linkage at the idler arm support bracket and allow to settle. (4) Remove the nuts and washers that attach the engine front supports to the frame. Jack up the front of engine approximately ½ inch. ¢5) Remove the bolts that hold the oil pan to the cylinder block. Lower the rear of oil pan as far as possible and work out of position from over top of crossmember. When installing the oil pan, coat the gaskets with a suitable sealer, then proceed as follows: (1) Place a new oil pan gasket in position, then install pan by sliding it in over the crossmember and up into position. Install bolts and lockwashers and tighten evenly to 20 foot-pounds. Install starting motor. (2) Reconnect the steering linkage at the idler arm support bracket. Tighten bolts securely. Lower engine and tighten nuts securely. Reconnect exhaust system. (3) Refill the crankcase with the correct viscosity motor oil, then install the dip stick. (4) Start engine and run until warmed up to 160° F., then check for oil leaks.

BEARING

[REMOVIÑG¯flHI l i INSTALLING • 5 i x 5 3 A Fig. 97—Removing and Installing Main Bearings

Reinstall the oil pump and oil pan as described in Paragraphs 47 and 48. 50.

48.

REMOVING AND INSTALLING THE OIL PUMP

(1) Remove the oil pan, as described in Paragraph 47 above. (2) Remove the oil pump mounting bolts, then pull pump straight down and away from rear main bearing cap. (3) Service the oil pump as described in Paragraph 35 of this Section. After the oil pump has been reconditioned, install the pump assembly, being careful to align the drive slot in the pump shaft with the distributor lower drive shaft. Install new seal rings then slide pump up into position against rear main bearing cap. Insert bolts and tighten to 30 foot-pounds. (4) Reinstall the oil pan as described in Paragraph 48 above.

49.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF UPPER MAIN BEARING SHELLS Remove the oil pan and pump as described in Paragraphs 47 and 48, then proceed as follows: (1) Loosen and remove the main bearing caps, one at a time. Insert the pin end of Tool C-3059 into the oil hole of the crankshaft, as shown in Figure 97. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise forcing the upper bearing shell out of position for easy removal. Fit new crankshaft bearing shells as described in Paragraph 8 of this Section. When tightening main bearings, start at No. 3 center and work alternately toward each end.

REPLACING THE REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL The rear main bearing oil seal, as shown in Figure 98, is of the braided asbestos type and is pressed into the upper and lower grooves behind the rear main bearing. This seal in conjunction with the helically grooved surface of the crankshaft seldom allows oil leakage at this point. However, should the lower half of this seal become damaged during servicing, replacement can be made as follows: With the bearing cap removed, slide bearing shell out of cap, then remove the damaged seal. Pry out the cap side seals. Install new seal so that both ends of the seal protrude above the cap. Tap the seal down into position, using Tool C-3131, as shown in Figure 18, until the smaller end of Tool is seated in the bearing cap bore. Now, holding the tool in this position, cut off the portion of the seal that protrudes above the bearing cap. BEARING SHELL

CAP SEAL (LONG) -BEARING OIL SEAL (LOWER) tO\l DRAIN SLOTS (REAR) CAP SEAL (SHORT)

OIL DRAIN HOLE

BEARING CAP 51x778 A

. 98—Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal, Cap and Side Seals

ENGINE-6 CYLINDER Reinstall the bearing shell, then install two new cap side seals. (The seal with the longer body should be installed so that when the cap is in position, the seal will be on the same side of the engine as the oil filter pad.) Whenever the crankshaft is removed, it is, of course, advisable to replace both the upper and lower halves of the oil seal in like manner.

51.

REPLACING CONNECTING ROD BEARING SHELLS

After draining the oil and removing the engine oil pan, the connecting rod bearing shells are easily replaced by removing the bearing caps and sliding the bearing shells out of the connecting rod. Replacement bearing shells require no reaming. Fit and install the connecting rod bearing shells as described in Paragraph 17 of this Section.

52.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CRANKSHAFT

Should it become necessary to remove the crankshaft for replacement, considerable time will be saved if the engine assembly is removed from the vehicle. A faster, better job can be done if this procedure is followed.

149

After engine has been removed, replace crankshaft as described in Paragraph 2.

53.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CAMSHAFT

(1) Remove the tappet chamber cover, as described in Paragraph 43. (2) Remove the rocker covers, as described in Paragraph 42 and the push rods as described in Paragraph 43. (3) Remove the hydraulic tappet assemblies, a s described in Paragraph 43. (4) Remove the ignition distributor. (5) Remove the engine oil pan as described in Paragraph 47. (6) Remove the chain case cover (refer to Paragraph 46). (7) Remove the camshaft gear bolt washer, and fuel pump eccentric. Now, slide the camshaft, crankshaft gears and timing chain off shafts. (8) Remove the four camshaft thrust plate bolts. (9) Remove the distributor drive gear and stub shaft, by inserting the nose of Tool C-484 into gear slot. Compress pliers and withdraw gear and shaft, using a clockwise motion to unmesh the spiral gear.

6 CYLINDER ENGINE CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Checking Crankshaft End Play Crankcase Ventilation Fitting Piston Pins Fitting Piston Rings General Information Pistons Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal Reconditioning Cylinder Walls Relief Valve Spring Chart Servicing Camshaft Servicing Connecting Rods Servicing Connecting Rod Bearings Servicing Cylinder Head Servicing Main Bearings Servicing Oil Filter Servicing Oil Pressure Relief Valve Servicing Oil Pump Servicing Valves and Mechanism

SERVICE

Par.

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151 162 153 153 149 153 151 152 159 156 152 151 158 150 161 161 158 154

INFORMATION

GENERAL INFORMATION The Dodge 6-cylinder engines are of "L" head design, mounted at three points in live rubber to prevent sound or vibration being transmitted to the body. Engines are

equipped with hardened exhaust valve seat inserts, replaceable "slip in type" bearings for crankshaft and connecting rods. The engines are lubricated by a full pressure oiling system, through the medium of drilled

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

150

passages. Pistons, piston pins and cylinder walls are lubricated by oil sprayed through an orifice in the connecting rods. Uniform cooling is provided by use of full length water packets, centrifugal pump, and water distributor tube. The letter "A" with the engine serial number indicates that the cylinder bores have been honed to the second production standard which is .020 larger than the first production standard. The letter "B" with the engine serial number indicates that the main and connecting rod bearings are .010 inch undersize. The letters "AB" with the engine serial number indicates .020 inch oversize cylinder bores as well as .010 inch undersize main and connecting rod bearings. The letters in the circular bosses on the block are for the use of factory inspectors only and should not be used in connection with the engine number. Reference to oversize or undersize markings should be referred to as second production standards. 1. SERVICING MAIN BEARINGS With the use of special tools, it is possible to remove and replace the main bearing shells without dropping the crankshaft. REMOVAL—Mark bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing halves one at a time. Exercise care when removing the upper half of the bearing insert to prevent damage to insert or to the crankshaft journal. Do not use a screwdriver or similar tool to remove insert. Re-

Fig. 1—Removing Upper Half of Bearing Shell 1-Bear¡ng shell

2-TooI C-584

move upper half of bearing by inserting Tool C¯584 in the oil hole of the crankshaft and slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise, forcing out the bearing, as shown in Figure 1. Inspection—Check each bearing carefully. If the bearing is scored, chipped or etched replace the bearing. When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly chamfer the sharp edge from the plain side. Checking Main Bearing Clearance—Limits on the taper or out-of-round of any crankshaft journal must be held to .001 inch. Undersize bearings should be installed if the crankshaft journals are worn enough to increase bearing clearance above specifications. Likewise, never install an undersize bearing which will reduce the clearance below specifications. The desired main bearing clearance is .0005 to .0015 inch. The clearance can be checked as follows: When checking the clearance of a bearing do not loosen the other bearing caps. This will disturb the crankshaft alignment, cause binding and result in a false indication of clearance. Check each main bearing, one at a time. Place a piece of .001 inch brass shim stock, ½ inch wide and 1 inch long, crosswise on the babbitt surface of the bearing between the bearing and the crankshaft journal, as shown in Figure 2. Replace bearing cap and tighten bolts to the specified torque. If a noticeable drag is felt when the crankshaft is turned by hand, the clearance is less than .001 inch which is desirable. If no drag is felt, the clearance is too great and undersize bearings should be used to obtain the proper clearance. Replacement bearings are available in standard and the following under sizes: .001, .002, .003, .010, .012,

Fig. 2—Checking Main Bearing Clearance 1—Bearing cap 2-Shim stock

3—Bearing 4—Crankshaft

ENGINE-6 CYLINDER

151

.020, .030 and .040 inch. CAUTION: Never p l a c e the shim stock between the bearing and the bearing cap. 2.

REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL (Figure 3) Upper Oil Seal—With the rear main bearing cap removed, the upper seal is easily removed. Push one corner of the seal until the opposite end protrudes about ¾ of an inch from the block. Pull the seal out from around the block with a pair of long nose pliers and discard it. Before installing the new seal, coat the contacting lip with grease. Insert one end of the seal into the block and push it into place with a rolling motion. CAUTION: It may be necessary to remove the sharp edge from block, or back off other main bearing caps so that seal is not cut on the back side by the rolling action. Lower Oil Seal—Remove the seal from the cap. Clean and inspect bearing cap and bearing. Carefully insert lower half of seal into the bearing cap. Make certain that tabs of gaskets fit in the cap seal channel. CAUTION: Always install both the upper and the lower seals as a set. Coat the contacting lip of the seal with a light application of grease to assure initial lubrication. Install the seals so that the contacting lip points toward the front of the engine. Apply sealing compound sparingly to the rear main bearing cap gaskets. If too much compound is used, it may squeeze into the machined surface of the cap and prevent fully tightening of the cap against the cylinder block, resulting in excessive bearing clearance. When replacing the two piece seal, both halves must be removed. It will be necessary BEARING-LOWER

49x696

Fig. 4—Checking Crankshaft End Play

to remove the transmission, clutch or torque converter before upper half can be removed. 3. CHECKING CRANKSHAFT END PLAY Measure the space between the end of the rear main bearing and the side of the thrust shoulder. Mount dial indicator to rest against crankshaft flange, or a vertical surface, as shown in Figure 4. End play can then be determined by prying the crankshaft back and forth. The end play should be between .003 to .007 inches. 4.

SERVICING CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS (Figure 5) Connecting rod bearings are easily replaced by removing the caps and bearing shells. Replacement bearings reguire no reaming or fitting. When installing rod bearings, the small formed EAR should fit in the machined grooves in the connecting rods in order to properly locate the bearing. This applies to both bearing halves.

BEARING CAP

54x621

Fig. 3—Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal (Exploded View)

Fig. 5—Connecting Rod Assembly (Exploded View) 1— Lockwasher 2-Nut 3—Cap 4—Bearings 5—Tongue and groove

6-Bolt 7—Bushing 8-O¡l holes 9-O¡l hole 10-Rod assembly

152

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Checking Rod Bearing Clearance—Limits on the taper or out-of-round of any crankshaft journal should be held to .001 inch. Undersize bearings should be installed if the crankshaft journals are worn enough to increase the bearing clearance above specifications. Never install an undersize bearing that will reduce the clearance below specifications. The desired connecting rod clearance is .0005 to .0015 inch, with an end play of .006 to .011 inches. To determine if the clearance is within these limits, check as follows: Check each connecting rod bearing, one at a time. Place a piece of .001 inch brass shim stock, ½ inch wide and 1 inch long, crosswise on the babbitt surface of the babbitt between the bearing and the crankshaft journal. Replace cap and tighten bolts to specified torque. If a noticeable drag is felt when the crankshaft is turned by hand, the clearance is less than .001 inch which is desirable. If no drag is felt the clearance is too great and undersize bearings should be used to obtain the proper clearance. If the connecting rod bearing clearance is excessive, crankshaft journals should be checked for out-of-round and taper, then if necessary, the crankshaft should be removed and the journals reground. Replacement bearings are available in standard and the following undersizes: .001, .002, .003, .010, .012, .020, .030 and .040 inch. 5. SERVICING CONNECTING RODS Connecting rods when removed, should always be installed with the oil holes toward the valve side of engine, as shown in Figure 5. Be sure and check each rod for alignment, using Fixture C-710 or DD-146-B, as shown in Figure 6, each time they are installed. This must be done when installing new piston pin bushings. The amount of allow-

47×¶39 Fig. 6—Aligning Connecting Rod

CYLINDER GAGE ^

32X81

Fig. 7—Checking Cylinder Bore

able twist or bend must not exceed .002 inch in length of piston pin. If a connecting rod cannot be straightened with Tool C-711, complete replacement will be necessary. 6. RECONDITIONING CYLINDER WALLS The cylinder bores should be checked with an accurate gauge to determine the out-of-round or tapered condition of the cylinder, and necessity for, and the method of, reconditioning required. Checking Cylinder Bores—The cylinder bores should be checked for out-of-round or taper, using Tool CM-119, as shown in Figure 7. Check each cylinder bore at the top, bottom, crosswise and lengthwise to determine what variation exists. If the cylinder bores show more than .005 inch outof-round, or a taper of more than .020 inch, they must be rebored. Honing Cylinder Bores—To remove light scoring, scuffing or scratches from the cylinder walls, use Tool C-823. Usually one or two passes will "clean up" a bore and maintain required limits. Cylinder walls should be deglazed, using cylinder surfacing hone Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones, prior to installation of new rings or to smooth down the cylinder walls after rough honing. A satisfactory finish can be obtained by giving each cylinder wall 20 strokes in 20 seconds with the hone so that a cross hatch pattern will be obtained. Make sure all trace of abrasive is cleaned from all parts of the engine, to prevent future trouble of excessive wear of engine parts. The hone may be used for removal of metal up to .005 inch and can safely be used as high as .010 to .015 inch by an experienced operator. Reboring Cylinders — Cylinder walls which are badly scored, scuffed or scratched should be rebored. Boring bar Tool 377-S contains a special feature for

ENGINE-6 CYLINDER

153

setting the cutter under positive control. The use of a special micrometer and mounting, to the cutter head, enables the cutter to be adjusted to the desired diameter. Whatever type of boring equipment is used, reboring should be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The honing or boring operation should be closely co-ordinated with the fitting of piston rings in order that specifications may be maintained. 7. PISTONS The pistons are of the cam-ground, U-slot type. Cam grinding creates an elliptical shape which means that the diameter of the piston at the pin hole is less than its diameter across the thrust face. This allows for expansion under normal operating conditions. Under operating temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away from each other, causing the piston to assume a more nearly round shape. To check for a collapsed piston, measure at the top and bottom of the skirt on the thrust sides, as shown in Figure 8. There should be no more than .0025 inch difference in these measurements. The largest measurement being at the bottom of the skirt. Also, inspect the piston for scratches and scoring. Check the piston pin holes for feathered edges. This condition is usually caused by piston pin movement against the lock ring. If edges of the piston pin hole are feathered excessively, install a new piston. Always use a new piston pin lock ring when installing the piston pin. Fitting Pistons—New pistons should be fitted to the cylinder bore with great care. The clearance between the piston skirt (¼ to ¾ inch from the bottom of the piston) and the cylinder wall should be .0008 inch. The fitting should be done at a normal room temperature of 70° F„ before the piston has been assembled to the rod. 0.028 TO 0.033-IN. LESS THAN DIAMETER AT (D)

THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE OF THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD BE 0.012 TO 0.014-IN. LESS AT DIAMETER (A) THAN ACROSS THE THRUST FACES AT DIAMETER (B).

THE SKIRT OF THE PISTON SHOULD TAPER SO THAT THE DIAMETER AT (C) IS FROM 0.0005 TO 0.0015-IN. LESS THAN AT (D). 3 2 X 9 1 A

Fig. 8—Cam Ground Piston

I /V.9,

x47A

Fig. 9—Fitting Piston in Inverted Position

Check the clearance, using .002 inch feeler stock, ½ inch wide and long enough to extend down into the bore to the full length of piston travel. Insert the piston in the bore, upside down, with the feeler stock between the piston and the cylinder wall. Draw out feeler stock with spring scale C-394, as shown in Figure 9. The amount of pull required to withdraw the feeler stock should be between 6 and 10 pounds. Pistons are available through Chrysler MOPAR Parts Corporation in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020, .030, .040 and .060 inches. 8. FITTING PISTON PINS Test piston pin fit in the connecting rod. This should be a tight thumb press fit at normal room temperature (70° F.). Test piston pin fit in the piston. This should be a tight DOUBLE thumb fit at normal room temperature. When using an expansion reamer to fit piston pins, be careful and take a very light cut. Ream and try the f i t . . . ream again, and try the fit until piston pin can be pushed into the piston or rod as described. 9. FITTING PISTON RINGS Measure the piston ring gap about 2 inches from the bottom of the cylinder bore to which the ring is to be fitted. Be sure the ring is square in the cylinder, before measuring gap with feeler gauge, as shown in Figure 10. The ring gap should be .010 to .020 inch for all rings. Clearance between the ring and the ring groove should be .0025 to .004 for the upper compression ring and .002 to .0035 inch for the intermediate compression ring. The oil ring side clearance is .001 to .0025 inch

154

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

FEELER GAUGE

•1

PISTON RING

Fig. 10—Measuring Piston Ring Gap

32X87 Fig. 11—Checking Clearance in Groove

for both rings. Be sure the ring grooves are clean before checking. Measure ring side clearance, as shown in Figure 11. After checking the fit of the rings to the cylinder and piston, install rings on piston, using Tool C-260, as shown in Figure 12. The rings must be installed in grooves as indicated in Figure 13. Before installing rod, piston and ring assemblies in the cylinder block, immerse the assemblies in clean engine oil for pre¯lubrication. Be sure the slot in the piston is installed away from the valve side of engine. When re-ringing an engine without reconditioning the cylinder bores, always remove top ridge of bore with a reliable ridge reamer. Care must be taken not to cut below top of upper ring position in bore; cutting the ridge BEFORE removing piston assemblies. Be sure and keep the pistons covered during this operation; then clean cylinder bores thoroughly before installing new rings. , 10. SERVICING VALVES AND MECHANISM The valves, guides and springs can be replaced or reconditioned with the engine in the car and are accessible by removing the cylinder head and valve chamber tappet covers. Whenever the cylinder head has been removed, it is advisable to check the condition of the valves, then make necessary repairs. Testing Valve Spring — Whenever the valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs should be tested. To test a spring, first determine the length at which the determine the length at which the spring is to be tested. As an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is 1¾ 6 inches. Turn the table of Tool C-647

PISTON RING APPUER 47x203

Fig. 13—Piston Ring Installation Fig. 12-lnstalling Piston Rings

1 —Compression—upper

2—Compression—lower 3—Oil rings

ENGINE-6 CYLINDER

rskà

54x333 Fig. 14—Testing Valve Springs

until the surface is in line with the 1¾ 6 inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place spring over stud on table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench, as shown in Figure 14, until ping is heard. Take reading on wrench at this instant. Multiply reading by two. This will give the spring load to the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Valve springs should test 110 to 120 foot-pounds when compressed to 1% inches. Discard any spring that does not meet minimum requirement. Replacing Valve Guides—If inspection indicates the clearance between the valve stems and guides is excessive or if the underside of any intake valve head is oily and especially if there is oil in the intake valve port, the guides must be replaced. To determine the amount of clearance between the valve stem and guide, first clean the valve stem and

guide to remove any carbon deposits. Place spacer sleeve (part of Tool C-430) on valve, insert valve in guide. Attach dial indicator (Tool C-430), to a convenient stud on cylinder block and adjust plunger of the indicator against edge of valve head, as shown in Figure 15. Hold valve so it will not turn, then move it "to" and "from" the indicator. The clearance between the stem and guide will be ½ the amount shown on the indicator. The amount of wear in the guide will be the clearance above standard (.001 to .003 inches intake and .003 to .005 inches exhaust). Intake valve guides having .004 inch clearance and exhaust valve guides having .007 inch clearance should be replaced to prevent excessive oil consumption and "blow-by" at this point. Remove worn valve guides, using Tool DD-849, then install the new, with the top of guides Vs inch below head surface of the cylinder block. Guides must be installed with the counterbore end UP for exhaust valves and with the counterbore end DOWN for intake valves. THIS IS IMPORTANT! After installation, ream both the intake and exhaust valve guides, as shown in Specifications and install new valves as required. Replacing Valve Tappets—If the valve tappet guides are excessively worn, the tappets should be removed, guides reamed and oversize tappets installed. Tappets are available in standard and the following oversizes: .001, .008 and .030 inches. When removing the tappets, raise the tappets out of the way of the camshaft lobes as shown in Figure 16. The camshaft must be removed to permit the tappets to be removed from the bottom of the cylinder block. Check the mushroom faces of the tappets for pits or scratches, replacing as required. Inspect the cam lobes

INDICATOR

32X85 Fig. 15—Measuring Valve Stem to Guide Clearance

155

Fig. 16—Holding Up Valves and Tappets

156

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

is found to be loose, cut the counterbore .003 inch smaller (with tool from Kit MH-N-1) than the oversize insert that is to be installed. Inserts are available in Standard and .010 inch oversize. Valve seat inserts should be fitted very tightly. They should be chilled in dry ice for approximately 10 minutes, to obtain maximum contraction. This will permit the seat insert to be readily installed in the cylinder block with driver Tool C-768.

DIAL INDICATOR

32X84

Fig. 17—Measuring Tappet Clearance in Block

for signs of roughness and chipping. Also make sure that the tappets rotate when installed. To check tappet clearance, clean and dry the tappets and guides, then insert tappet in its bore. Attach a dial indicator to a manifold stud, then raise tappet slightlyabove the lower end of its normal travel and place the dial plunger against the upper end of tappet, as shown in Figure 17. Move the tappet "in" and "out" against the plunger (crosswise of engine). If the clearance is greater than .002 inch, ream tappet bore and install new oversize tappets. Reconditioning Exhaust Valve Seat Inserts —Inspect the exhaust vlave seat inserts for cracks, damage, or looseness in the cylinder block. Remove damaged inserts, using Tool C-732, as shown in Figure 18. A standard size seat can usually be reinstalled if the seat was properly removed. If, however, the insert

49x805 Fig. 18—Removing Exhaust Valve Seat Insert

When refacing inserts, the best results can be obtained by the use of Tool MH-JB-41. Because of the hardness of the inserts, it is impossible to recut the seats in the usual manner. The following items should be observed when reconditioning inserts: (1) Valve inserts must be clean. (2) Valve guide pilot must fit snugly in valve guide and be tightened securely in place. (3) Finished seats should not exceed .001 inch runout, which may be checked with an indicator. (4) Valve grinding compound should not be used on exhaust seat inserts.

Grinding Intake Valve Seats—The intake valve seats in the cylinder block should be ground with a suitable valve seat refacer and should be ground only enough to remove pits or other depressions in the seat. Grind a new seat surface on the valve head with a valve grinding machine. When new seats are finished, they may be lightly lapped together with a suitable valve grinding compound to assure a tight seal. The valve heads have plain surfaces and may be oscillated by means of a rod fitted with a vacuum cup operated either by hand or machine. Keep the width of the valve seat within specified limits ‰ to % 2 inch). If the seat is too wide it is difficult to obtain proper seal. Trim down a wide seat by relieving the edge with a 20° finishing stone. Adjusting Valve Tappets—The tappets should be adjusted with the engine idling and it must be at normal operating temperature. The valve tappet screws are the self-locking type. Adjust both the intake and exhaust valve tappets to .010 inch clearance with the engine hot. It is important that this clearance be maintained to insure satisfactory engine performance. If the car is to be driven at continuous high speeds, an additional .002 inch clearance for exhaust tappets is desirable. 11. SERVICING CAMSHAFT All camshaft bearings, except the rear, are removable, but seldom, if ever, have to be replaced. If bearing clearance is excessive, new bearings may be pressed in place after camshaft and camshaft bearings have been removed.

E N G I N E - 6 CYLINDER

157

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET HUB

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET -1 THRUST PLATE 35x5 20 x 142 Fig. 19—Measuring Camshaft Bearing Clearance

Fig. 21—Measuring Camshaft End Play

Replacement bearings are finished to such close limits when manufactured, that they do not require reaming, scraping or burnishing. To remove the camshaft without removing the engine assembly, remove radiator grille and the radiator core, then proceed with removal of camshaft. Measuring Camshaft Bearing Wear—Attach a dial indicator to the block with the plunger of the indicator resting on the back of cam nearest a bearing, as shown in Figure 19. Pry the shaft "to" and "from" the indicator so that the movement will be shown on the indicator. Check all bearings in the same manner. If the clearance exceeds .005 inch, install a new camshaft (for test purposes only) and recheck the clearance. If clearance with a new test camshaft exceeds .0035 inch, replace bearings. Removing Camshaft Bearings—If the camshaft bearings are to be replaced, remove old bearings with Tool C-536, as shown in Figure 20 and install new ones

with same tool. Be careful not to burr or damage the bores in the block, as damage to the bores will interefere with installation of new bearings. Examine the camshaft lobes and the distributor and oil pump drive gear for excessive wear or damage. Check clearance between the thrust plate and the front bearing journal and measure the camshaft end play with feeler gauge, as shown in Figure 21. The standard clearance is .002 to .006 inch. If the clearance is greater than .010 inch, replace the thrust plate, gear hub or both. Checking Timing Chain and Sprockets—Turn crankshaft clockwise so that the top span of chain is tight. If the amount of deflection in the lower span of chain is greater than ¾ inch, from a straight line, replace the timing chain. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and lift off the sprocket and chain, then check

ADAPTERS (PART OF REMOVING TOOL CAMSHAFT BEARING REMOVER AND INSTALLER

l·

CHAIN CASE COVER PLATE

TIMING MARK " O " STAMPED O N CAMSHAFT SPROCKET

TIMING MARK " O " STAMPED O N CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET

\ SLIDE HAMMER (PART I OF REMOVING TOOL)

- TIMING CHAIN

CENTER LINE

HORSESHOE COLLAR (PART OF REMOVING TOOL)

35x6 Fig. 20—Removing Camshaft Bearings

Fig. 22—Aligning Timing Marks on Sprockets

Ì58

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

condition of sprockets. If the sprockets are noticeably worn, replace sprockets. If for any reason, the timing chain or sprockets have to be removed they must be assembled so that the marks on the sprockets line up, as shown in Figure 22. Chain Case Cover Oil Seal — This seal prevents leakage of oil at the front of engine. The seal is a press fit in the chain case cover and is a spring backed composition seal in a stamped steel housing. When installing chain case cover, care must be taken to center seal on crankshaft before tightening cover bolts. (1) Install chain case cover and new gasket on engine, drawing up bolts snugly to hold cover in place. (2) Install special Tool C-522 over crankshaft, with tapered end of tool against seal housing, as shown in Figure 23. Then, install and tighten crankshaft nut, finger tight. (3) Tighten cover bolts and at the same time, tighten crankshaft nut to maintain tension between seal and centering tool. When bolts are drawn down securely, remove tool and install crankshaft nut and tighten to

135 foot-pounds. Always use a new seal and gasket whenever the chain case cover has been removed. 12. SERVICING CYLINDER HEAD Always use a new cylinder head gasket when installing the cylinder head. Coat both sides of gasket with a light, high temperature non-fibre grease, or a suitable sealing compound. Make sure the cylinder head and block are clean and that the water holes are fully open and clean. Tighten cylinder head bolts in sequence as shown in Figure 24, drawing all bolts down evenly, to 70 footpounds. A final tightening and checking on the tension of the cylinder head bolts should be made after the engine has

Fig. 23—Centering Chain Case Cover and Seal

Fig. 24—Sequence for Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts

reached its normal operating temperature and then check for internal and external leaks. Engine Rear Support Insulators — The engine rear support insulators may be removed after disconnecting exhaust pipe bracket. Jack up rear of engine and remove support bolts, then rock the engine and pry out insulators. When replacing insulators, change position of jack from one side of the engine to the other to obtain necessary clearance. The engine lubrication system is so designated as to allow adequate lubrication to all interior moving parts of the engine. (See Figure 25). Lubricating oil is supplied under pressure by a gear driven, rotary type pump. A floating type oil strainer is attached to the suction pipe elbow of the pump and draws clean, fresh oil from the TOP of the oil level in the pan. The pressure supplied by the pump, is controlled by a relief valve, which opens as excessive pressure develops in the system. This valve relieves the pressure and returns surplus oil to the pan. 13. SERVICING THE OIL PUMP When removing oil pump for repair or inspection, care must be taken to keep the original ignition timing. This can best be assured as follows: Lift off distributor cap, then rotate crankshaft until the distributor rotor is in firing position for number one cylinder. Be sure and keep the crankshaft in this position while, and after, pump is removed. If the position of the crankshaft was accidentally changed while the pump was removed, remove number one spark plug, and rotate engine until number one piston is up on compression at the top dead center (this can be indicated by either a compression gauge or thumb pressure over spark plug hole), as indicated by the pointer (DC on vibration damper or pulley hub). Turn pump drive shaft until the slot in the end of shaft lines up with bolt holes in the mounting flange, as shown in Figure 33. Now turn the drive gear ONE tooth counter-clockwise. Loosen the distributor lock screw and raise the distributor just enough to allow the pump to be installed. Tighten pump bolts to torque specified. With distributor still raised, turn rotor, as shown in Figure 34, until it points to No. 1 Firing Position. Move the rotor back and

ENGINE-6 CYLINDER

159

I OIL STRAINER

Fig. 25—Engine Lubrication (Cross Sectional View)

RELIEF VALVE SPRING CHART Under-Lo¤d Tension Height Pounds Red l¼" 12.4 to 13.8 Standard (no color) l¼" 14.4 to 15.8 Green 1 1 3 /IG" l¼" 16.2 to 17.8 If, tor any reason, the spring has to be replaced, the same color spring should be used. Color

Free Height I 1 3 /i 6 " I 1 3 /i 6 "

forth slightly to allow tongue of distributor to engage slot in pump shaft. Tighten distributor and install spark plug. Then, adjust timing as outlined in the Electrical Section. Removal and installation of the oil pump, for inspection or reconditioning can be accomplished in the following manner: Remove the two front motor support "U" bolts. Loosen the two rear support bolts, then using a suitable bar, pry the engine straight over far enough to remove the oil pump after the mounting bolts have been removed. To disassemble the rotor type pump for inspection and repair, refer to Figure 26, then remove cover and gasket and proceed as follows: (1) Hold a hand over the open end of body, with the pump upside-down, then turn drive shaft until the outer rotor slips out of body. (2) Drive out retaining pin which holds the drive gear

Open at Pounds 37 to 41 42 to 47 48 to 53

to the shaft. Press gear off shaft and slide inner rotor and shaft out of pump body. (3) Wash all component parts of pump assembly in a suitable cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts of pump assembly carefully, checking mating surfaces of the rotors for excessive wear, nicks, burrs, scratches or scoring; replacing parts as required. To check the rotors for excessive wear, slide rotors into pump body, then measure the clearance between the lobes of inner and outer rotors, as shown in Figure 27. If clearance is greater than .010 inch, replace both rotors. Next, determine clearance between outer rotor and body by inserting a feeler gauge as shown in Figure 28. If clearance is over .008 inch, replace pump body after measuring diameter and thickness of the outer rotor as described below.

160

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL OIL PUMP A N D DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR OIL PUMP BODY OIL PUMP ROTOR (INNER) ROTOR PIN COVER GASKET

OIL PUMP DRIVE SHAFT OIL PUMP ROTOR (OUTER) OIL PUMP COVERCOVER SCREW A N D LOCK WASHER'

49x8OO

49x801

Fig. 29—Checking Rotor Clearance to Cover Fig. 26—Oil Pump (Exploded View) r `%

49x802 Fig. 27—Measuring Clearance Between Rotor Lobes

The outer rotor diameter, when measured with micrometer calipers should not be less than 2.245 inches and the thickness of both inner and outer rotors not less than .748 inch. If the rotors show excessive wear as indicated by the wear tolerances shown above, replace worn rotors. With rotors in position, place a straight edge across pump body between bolt holes, as shown in Figure 29. With feeler gauge, check clearance between rotor surface and straight edge. Replace pump body if clearance is more than .004 inch. The pump cover must be smooth, free from scratches or groove marks. To check cover for excessive wear, place straight edge across inner surface and check with a feeler gauge, as shown in Figure 30. If a .001 inch feeler can be inserted, replace cover with a new one. When installing a new inner rotor on the drive shaft, press the rotor on, until the end of the shaft isflushwith the face of rotor. When pressing rotor, be sure it is

FEELER G A U G E STRAIGHT EDGE

PUMP BODY OUTER ROTOR

49x699 Fig. 28—Checking Clearance Between Rotor and Body

FEELER G A G F '

¿PUMP COVER

Fig. 30—Checking Pump Cover

32x45

E-6 CYLINDER

Fig. 31—Checking End Play

square with the shaft. Drill pin hole, using a % 2 inch drill and install pin. To assemble pump, slide the shaft and rotor assembly into the pump body, then press the drive gear on the'shaft, allowing for a .003 to .010 inch end play. Press rotor into the body with hand, then check clearance with feeler gauge, as shown in Figure 31. If the clearance is within allowable tolerance, install pin, peening over both ends. (If pin holes do not line up, drill new hole through gear and shaft using a % 2 inch drill, at right angles to other holes.) Slide the outer rotor into place in the pump body, then install a new cover gasket. Install cover and tighten bolts evenly to insure uniform contact against gasket. Prime pump, then install in engine. Check timing as described previously. 14. SERVICING OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE The oil pressure relief valve is located on the left side of the cylinder block, below the starting motor and consists of a valve, spring, gasket and plug. To inspect oil pressure relief valve, unscrew the plug

49x803

F¡g. 32—Oil Pressure Relief Valve

161

and remove the spring and valve, as shown in Figure 32. Clean all parts in a suitable cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect relief valve and valve seat in the block, removing any dirt or foreign material; clean thoroughly, using Tool C-876, oil relief valve remover and seat refacer. If the valve shows signs of scoring, replace it with a new one. Check the valve spring for tension as shown in specifications. Always use a new gasket when reinstalling the relief valve plug. 15. SERVICING THE OIL FILTER The oil filter is provided with a removable "cartridge" which should be periodically replaced, preferably in conjunction with an oil change. To service the oil filter remove the cover, gasket SLOT IN DRIVE SHAFT COUNTER-CLOCKWISE OIL PUMP A N D DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

ATTACHING SCREW HOLES

35x10

Fig. 33—Positioning Pump for Installation

DISTRIBUTOR LOCK PLATE

DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR IN SEVEN O CLOCK POSITION

35 x U

Fig. 34—Setting Rotor after Installing Pump

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

162

and cartridge. With a suction gun, remove oil remaining in bottom of can, then wipe can thoroughly with a clean rag until all traces of oil, sludge and dirt have been removed. Install new cartridge, gasket and tighten cover securely. Refill crankcase allowing one extra quart of oil for filter. Run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then check filter for leaks at cover. 16. CRANKCASE VENTILATION The crankcase ventilation system is designed to remove

harmful fumes from the crankcase and to prevent condensation of these fumes which would cause excessive dilution of lubrication oil. Ventilation is accomplished by drawing off the fumes or vapors through the crankcase ventilator pipe at the rear of engine. Fresh air enters through the oil filler pipe, which carries an air cleaner to remove dirt and dust from the air before it enters the crankcase. The only attention the crankcase ventilation system requires, is to clean the oil filler tube air cleaner.

EXHAUST SYSTEM CONTENTS

Pai.

Page 162 168

2 4 — 3 7 1 6 5

164 165 163 165 167 163 166 165

(6 CYLINDER) (8 CYLINDER)

EXHAUST SYSTEM-6 CYLINDER CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Exhaust and Intake Manifold Inspection Exhaust and Intake Manifold Installation General Information Heat Control Valve Inspection Replacing the Exhaust Pipe, Muffler and Tail Pipe Servicing the Exhaust and Intake Manifold Servicing the Exhaust Pipe, Muffler and Tail Pipe Servicing the Manifold Heat Control Valve

Burned or blown out muffler Exhaust manifold cracked or broken Blown gasket between exhaust manifold and cylinder block Blown gasket between exhaust pipe and manifold outer flange Burned, broken or cracked exhaust pipe Loose joints Tail pipe opening restricted Cracked exhaust manifold Loose exhaust pipe connection Porous, burned or blown out muffler or exhaust pipes Loose manifold mounting nuts or bolts Damaged or improperly installed gaskets

Excessive Exhaust Noise and Leaking Exhaust Gases

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Vibration Noises In Exhaust System

CONDITIONS B ^ >

Rough Idle or Has No Power

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

> > >

4 i í í i

EXHAUST-6 CYLINDER

163

Excessive Exhaust Noise and Leaking Exhaust Gases

Vibration Noises In Exhaust System

CONDITIONS POSSIBLE CAUSES

Rough Idle or Has No Power

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

•

Loose spark plug or blown spark plug gasket Bent support bracket at tail pipe or muffler Broken supports or insulators Loose manifold heat control Tail pipe clamp not holding pipe Misaligned exhaust system Tail pipe broken Exhaust pipe broken Loose tubes or baffles in muffler Loose connections at manifold Outlet flange, at muffler or at tail pipe Leak at carburetor to manifold gasket Restricted muffler or tail pipe Heat control valve not operating or frozen in manifold

4 í î 1 > • • • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The exhaust system on the 6 cylinder Dodge cars consists of the exhaust and intake manifolds, heat control valve, exhaust pipe, muffler and tail pipe. The exhaust pipe, muffler and tail pipe are mounted on supports which are insulated to eliminate vibration and noises. The exhaust pipe is bolted to the exhaust manifold flange at the rear of manifold and is joined and clamped to an extension which is welded or clamped to the muffler. Production exhaust pipes are welded but exhaust pipes for service are damped to the muffler. A support with an insulator and clamp, supports the tail pipe and the rear of the muffler, while another clamp and insulator supports the rear end of the tail pipe. The heat control valve, as shown in Figure 2, is placed in the exhaust manifold and is controlled by a thermostatic coil spring and counterweight. When the engine is cold, the valve is closed. As the engine warms up, the calibrated heat control valve acts to maintain intake manifold temperatures at the level for peak performance and best fuel economy.

The exhaust system normally requires little service. However, the system should be checked periodically for leaking gaskets, broken supports or insulators, burned or blown out mufflers or pipes. 1. SERVICING THE EXHAUST AND INTAKE MANIFOLD To remove the exhaust and intake manifolds for servicing and installation of new gaskets, refer to Figure 1 then proceed a s follows. (1) Remove air cleaner from carburetor. (2) Disconnect carburetor throttle linkage, distributor vacuum control tube and automatic choke hot air tube. (3) Disconnect fuel line at fuel pump and at carburetor, then remove fuel line. (4) Remove carburetor and gasket. (5) Remove the two nuts and bolts that hold exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold flange. Separate connection and discard gasket. (6) Remove the manifold mounting stud nuts, washers and retainers along with the 2 long bolts from center of manifolds. Now pull manifold assembly out away and up from engine. (7) Loosen and remove the four bolts holding the

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

164

CARBURETOR MOUNTING SURFACE

FLAT WASHER (RETAINER) INTAKE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET STOP STUD

MANIFOLD TO CYLINDER BLOCK GASKETS

CONICAL NUTS AND WASHERS EXHAUST MANIFOLD CENTER SCREW THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

INTAKE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD ATTACHING SCREW

51x406 B

Fig. 1—Exhaust and Intake Manifolds (Exploded View)

exhaust to the intake manifold. Use care when loose n i n g t h e s e parts, a s constant h e a t i n g a n d c o o l i n g of t h e manifolds m a y h a v e frozen them i n p l a c e . Lubricate with a g o o d g r a d e p e n e t r a t i n g oil a n d a l l o w to s t a n d s e v e r a l m i n u t e s b e f o r e attempting r e m o v a l . (8) Unfasten and remove heat control valve counterweight and pry out thermostatic coil spring from end of shaft. (9) Separate manifolds to expose heat control valve and intake manifold "Hot Spot" chamber, as shown in Figure 2.

EXHAUST AND INTAKE MANIFOLD INSPECTION It is suggested that the exhaust and intake manifolds be cleaned in a suitable solvent, blown dry with compressed air and then inspected for cracks or distortion and any other condition that would render the manifolds unfit for future service. Be sure the opening to the automatic choke heat tube is not restricted by carbon, rust or scale. Particular attention should be given to the "Hot Spot" chamber in the intake manifold. If the chamber is coated with hard black carbon, it must be scraped clean

or sandblasted to remove carbon deposit. The layers of carbon act as an insulator and retard the heating action of the exhaust gases on the "Hot Spot" which in turn affects the vaporization rate of the fuel passing down through the intake manifold. The results will be an engine that is difficult to warm up and rough engine performance. HOT SPOT CHAMBER

'EXHAUST MANIFOLD^-^

vs^`VALVE SHAFT

I THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

5ix4O7B

F¡g. 2—Heat Control Valve and "Hot Spot11 Chamber

E X H A U S T - 6 CYLINDER

If the manifold mounting stud threads are stripped or damaged, they should be replaced. Examine the long bolts (center) for signs of water leakage around threads and in bolt holes in cylinder block. If leakage of coolant is evident, coat threads with a suitable sealer at installation of manifold assembly.

165 CONICAL WASHERS

3. HEAT CONTROL VALVE INSPECTION The heat control valve should operate freely, without excessive play or binding. The thermostatic coil spring should hold the valve in the closed position, with the manifold cold. If the spring does not hold the valve in the closed position, but the valve operates freely, install a new thermostatic coil spring, as outlined in this Section. EXHAUST MANIFOLD

EXHAUST AND INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION

New gaskets should be used when installing the exhaust and intake manifolds, and all mating surfaces must be clean and smooth. To assemble exhaust and intake manifolds preparatory to installation on cylinder block, refer to Figure 1 and proceed as follows: (1) Install new gasket between exhaust and intake manifolds (be sure heat valve is free and operates smoothly). Insert the four bolts through the exhaust manifold, gasket and into the intake manifold. Draw bolts down snug but DO NOT TIGHTEN! (2) Install thermostatic coil spring.and counterweight, as described in this Section. (3) Install the manifold to cylinder block gaskets over studs, and install assembled manifolds. (4) Holding manifold assembly evenly against gaskets and cylinder block, install long center bolts and draw down snugly. (If these bolts show signs of coolant leakage, coat threads with a suitable sealer before installation.) Install balance of washers and nuts. To a v o i d h e a t c r a c k i n g of manifold, b e s u r e to install the four c o n i c a l brass w a s h e r s a n d nuts on the e x t r e m e e n d s of exhaust manifold, a s s h o w n in F i g u r e 3 . This is important! Due to e x p a n s i o n a n d contraction of the exhaust m a n i f o l d , the c o n i c a l nuts a n d w a s h e r s a l l o w m o v e m e n t of t h e e x h a u s t manifold without loosening. (5) Tighten manifold bolts and nuts, (starting from the center and working out to the ends) to 20 footpounds. (6) Tighten the bolts holding exhaust manifold to intake manifold. (This was done to allow mating flanges of both manifolds to rest evenly against cylinder block and gaskets to avoid distortion and leaks.) (7) Install automatic choke tube. (8) Install new gaskets between exhaust pipe and

51x418

Fig. 3â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installation of Conical Nuts and Washers

manifold flanges. Insert bolts and tighten nuts securely. (9) Install new carburetor flange gasket, then mount carburetor. Tighten nuts securely. (10) Connect the fuel line to the fuel pump and carburetor. (11) Connect carburetor throttle linkage and distributor vacuum control tube. (12) Install air cleaner, then start engine and check for intake or exhaust manifold leaks.

SERVICING THE MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE The manifold heat control valve is controlled by a thermostatic coil spring, counterweight and by the velocity of exhaust gas through the exhaust manifold. The thermostatic coil spring is installed in such a manner as to maintain sufficient tension on the valve shaft to keep the valve in the "Heat On" position when the engine is cold. In the "Heat On" position, hot exhaust gases circulate up and around the "Hot Spot" chamber in the intake manifold. Should the heat control valve become stuck in either the "Off" or "On" position, car performance would be affected. The heat control valve should be checked periodically for operation. With the engine idling, and car standing, accelerate to wide open throttle and quickly release. The counterweight should respond by moving clockwise approximately Â˝ inch and return to its normal position. If no movement is observed, the valve shaft may be frozen or the coil spring weak or broken. In either case, the heat control valve mechanism should be disassembled and repaired. To free shaft, replace a weak or broken spring, refer to Figure 4, and proceed as follows: (1) Loosen retaining nut and remove counterweight,

166

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL BUMPER

COUNTERWEIGHT

' V*,

¯ ¯·

Í¯.`J

INTAKE A N D EXHAUST MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING STOP STUD VALVE SHAFT KEY

KEY

COUNTERWEIGHT

TIGHTENING BOLT

51x409 Fig. 4—Heat Control Valve Counterweight key and bumper from end of shaft to expose thermostatic coil spring. (2) Unhook coil spring from stop stud and remove by prying out of valve shaft slot. (3) If valve shaft is frozen in manifold, lubricate both ends with a recommended solvent (Part Number 1643273) available from the Parts Department, and allow to stand several minutes. Loosen by turning shaft clockwise or counter-clockwise (depending on frozen position), until shaft is free. Work shaft from closed to open position several times, until shaft can be turned very easily with the fingers. To install new thermostatic coil spring, position shaft in extreme counter-clockwise position and continue as follows: (4) Place new coil spring in position over shaft slot, with outer end (tongue) of spring in the upper lefthand position. Now press inner end of coil into slot of shaft and seat firmly.

Fig. 6—Installing Counterweight, Key, and Bumper Assembly

(5) Move the outer end (tongue) of spring down, around up and over stop stud, as shown in Figure 5. (6) Place counterweight over shaft (with the shield in upward position) and insert key in shaft slot, as shown in Figure 6. (7) Center counterweight on shaft and turn assembly clockwise until bumper passes the stop stud. (8) Press counterweight on shaft until seated, then tighten nut securely with socket driver, Tool T-109-173, as shown in Figure 7. Lubricate both ends of shaft with recommended solvent (Part Number 1643273). Test valve for operation as described previously.

6. SERVICING THE EXHAUST PIPE, MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE Alignment One of the most important maintenance operations of TOOL T~IQ9-I73 COUNTERWEIGHT STOP STUD THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

STOP STUD VALVE SHAFT DiRECTiON OF WRAP

51x40 8 A Fig. 5—Positioning Thermostatic Coil Spring

51x412 Fig. 7—Positioning Counterweight With Tool T-109-173

E X H A U S T - 8 CYLINDER

57x92

Fig. 8—Tail Pipe to Support Bracket Cfamp

the exhaust system is alignment. A misaligned exhaust system may cause objectionable sounds or vibrations inside the car. It is therefore recommended that the alignment operation be completed before attempting any major repairs. In most all cases, the objectionable sounds or vibrations can be completely removed by placing it in proper alignment, a s described below. To properly align the exhaust system, refer to Figures 8 and 9 which cover the various types of supports, insulators and clamps on which the exhaust system is supported, then proceed as follows: (1) Loosen the exhaust manifold outlet flange nuts. (2) Loosen clamp at exhaust pipe extension. (3) Loosen the clamp bolt nuts that support and hold the tail pipe to the muffler. (4) Loosen the tail pipe front support stud nut.

(5) Loosen the clamp bolt nut that holds the tail pipe to the rear support insulator. Loosen insulator to support bracket nut. (6) Shake the entire exhaust system to relieve any strain. (7) Check all support brackets, insulators and clamps, replacing any parts which are damaged or broken. Be sure that the muffler and exhaust pipe are free from frame. The tail pipe must be rolled into position so as to have a minimum clearance of ½ inch with all parts such as frame, floor of car, bumper, shock absorbers, and fuel tank. The tail pipe should be positioned so that the support and insulator just behind the muffler, is in a vertical position, a s shown in Figure 8, (not at an angle). The rear outlet of muffler must be in line with clamp on tail pipe, when support and insulator is in a vertical position. After checking the system as outlined, tighten as follows: (1) Tighten exhaust manifold outlet flange nuts EVENLY, after blocking up muffler to remove weight load from flanges. If nuts are not tightened evenly, the entire system will be put under strain. (2) Tighten clamp at exhaust pipe extension. (3) Tighten clamp nuts holding tail pipe to muffler. (4) Tighten support clamp nut holding tail pipe at rear. The tail pipe front support bracket is slotted vertically at the tail pipe front support stud hole. After the exhaust system has been positioned horizontally, the insulator should be adjusted vertically to remove excess strain from the insulator and then retightened. This procedure also applies to the tail pipe rear support assembly, as this bracket is also slotted. After the system has been tightened, re-check to be sure the proper clearance between the exhaust system and other parts of the car has been maintained. 7.

57x93

Fig. 9—Tail Pipe to Rear Support Clamp

167

REPLACING THE EXHAUST PIPE, MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE When removing parts, it is advisable to lubricate the nuts and bolts with a good grade of penetrating oil and allow to stand for several minutes before disassembly. The connection clamps should be rapped sharply with a plastic hammer to loosen, if rusted to the pipes. On all models, the exhaust pipe and muffler are a welded assembly. In order to remove either the muffler or the exhaust pipe, it will be necessary to cut the pipe at, or near the weld joint. The service mufflers a n d exhaust pipes are available only as individual units to be damped together and not as a welded assembly. When replacing a muffler or exhaust pipe of the welded type, it will be necessary to install a double bolt clamp to secure the joint.

168

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Removing Exhaust Pipe and/or Exhaust Pipe Extension (1) Cut exhaust pipe completely through at weld joint (or as close to weld as possible) with a hack saw. (2) If removing exhaust pipe extension only, loosen exhaust pipe extension clamp and slide over exhaust pipe to clear connection. (3) Carefully work extension pipe free of exhaust pipe. If entire exhaust pipe assembly is to be removed, proceed as follows: (4) Loosen and remove exhaust pipe flange nuts and bolts, then lower pipe slightly to clear exhaust manifold flange. Remove pipe and extension and discard gasket. When installing new exhaust pipe, be sure to use a flange gasket. Tighten flange bolts and nuts evenly so as not to distort or strain exhaust system. See "Alignment" (Paragraph 6).

Removing Muffler (1) Cut exhaust pipe as described in Removing Exhaust Pipe. (2) Remove nuts on muffler rear support clamp. Lower front end of muffler and work off tail pipe. File end of exhaust pipe to remove saw-cut burrs and rough edges. Slightly taper outside diameter of pipe to aid in muffler installation. Removing Tail Pipe (1) Remove lower half of clamp securing tail pipe to rear of muffler. (2) Remove bolt from tail pipe rear support clamp and remove tail pipe from clamp. (3) Work tail pipe out of muffler. Roll tail pipe to clear fuel tank and frame and out from under car. Before tightening all clamp nuts at installation, align system as described in "Alignment" Paragraph 6.

EXHAUST SYSTEM-8 CYLINDER SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

Dual Exhaust System Exhaust Manifold Inspection General Information Installing the Exhaust Manifolds Replacing the Exhaust Pipe, Muffler and Tail Pipe Servicing the Exhaust Manifolds Servicing the Exhaust Pipe, Muffler and Tail Pipe Servicing the Manifold Heat Control Valve

7 2 — 3 6 1 5 4

Page 173 169 168 170 172 169 171 170

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The exhaust system used on the Dodge V-8 cars consists of the exhaust manifolds, heat control valve, crossover and "Y" exhaust pipe, exhaust extension pipe, muffler and tail pipe. The exhaust pipe, muffler and tail pipe are mounted in clamps which are insulated to eliminate vibration. The crossover and "Y" pipe is bolted to the exhaust manifold flanges at the rear on the left hand bank and at the center on the right hand bank. The extension exhaust pipe and muffler are a welded unit on all cars except the convertible, which uses a short section of the "Y" pipe to the muffler, and is secured with clamps at each end. A support with a special insulator and clamp, supports the tail pipe and the rear of the muffler, while another clamp, insulator and support carries the rear end of the tail pipe. The front and rear supports are adjustable.

C o n ƒ r o ƒ Va¡ve

Opera†ÌQn

T h e i n t a k e m a n i f o i d i n c ludes

an exhaust gas crossover shown in Figure 1, for heating the fuel m i x t u r e during the warm-up period and during light t h r o t t l e o p e r ation. This passage connects with the exh a u s t m a n i f o l d s o n e i t h e r s i d e o f the engine through c a s t p a s s a g e s in the cylinder heads, T h e h e a t c o n t r o l v a l v e i s s a n d w i c h e d and mounted b e t W e e n the exhaust manifold and the exhaust "Y" pipe o n t h e r i g h t s i d e o f † h e e n g i n e > The heat control valve consists of an off-set valve whose position is regulated by the thermostatic coil spring and a counterweight and is affected by exhaust gas pressure, The heat control valve is normally closed when the engine is cold, and while in this position, diverts the

passage

169

E X H A U S T - 8 CYLINDER

CARBURETOR MOUNTING FLANGE

CHOKE CONTROL MOUNTING FLANGE

INTAKE PASSAGES

EXHAUST GAS CROSSOVER PASSAGE

57x97

Fig. 1—Exhaust Gas Crossover Passage Through the Intake Manifold

exhaust gases from the right hand cylinder bank through the crossover passage in the intake manifold and out through the left hand exhaust manifold to the muffler. The hot gases warm the intake manifold in passing through and prevent the fuel from condensing in the manifold. This action also tends to prevent carburetor icing during cool damp days. As the engine warms up, the calibrated heat control valve acts to maintain intake manifold temperatures at the level for peak performance and best fuel economy. It is extremely important that the heat control valve be checked for operation at regular intervals. 1. SERVICING THE EXHAUST MANIFOLDS To remove the exhaust manifolds for servicing or installation of new gaskets, proceed as follows: Removing the R¡ght·Hand Bank Exhaust Manifold (1) Remove generator and bracket assembly from exhaust manifold extension (when so positioned). (2) Remove the bolts and nuts that hold the manifold heat control valve and the "Y" exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold flange. Lift off heat control valve housing and gaskets. (3) If necessary to remove oil filter cover and element for clearance, make sure filter base is covered with clean cloth to prevent entrance of foreign material.

(4) Remove the nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head, then slide manifold out and away from cylinder head.

Removing the Left-Hand Bank Exhaust Manifold (1) Remove the two bolts and nuts that hold the crossover exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold flange. Lower pipe slightly then remove and discard the gasket. (2) Remove the exhaust manifold retaining nuts, then slide exhaust manifold off studs and out away from

engine. Use care when removing the manifold attaching nuts and bolts, as constant heating and cooling of the manifolds may have frozen them in place. Lubricate with a good grade penetrating oil and allow to stand several minutes before attempting removal. 2. EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSPECTION It is suggested that the exhaust manifolds be cleaned in a suitable solvent, blown dry with compressed air and then inspected for cracks or distortion or any other condition that would render the manifolds unfit for further service. Check the exhaust gas crossover passage through the heads and intake manifold. If the passages are coated with a hard black carbon, they should be scraped clean or sandblasted to remove the carbon deposit. The layers of carbon act as an insulator and retard the

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

170

heating action of the exhaust gas on the intake risers which in turn affects the vaporization rate of the fuel passing down through the intake manifold. The results will be an engine that is difficult to warm up and rough engine performance. Check the condition of the exhaust manifold mounting stud threads. If the threads are stripped or damaged they should be replaced.

COUNTERWEIGHT WASHER NUT RETAINERS STOP BOLT

LOCK THERMOSTAT

INSTALLING THE EXHAUST

MANIFOLDS

Installing the Left-Hand Bank Exhaust Manifold (1) Install new gasket over exhaust manifold mounting studs on the cylinder head. Slide the exhaust manifold over studs and up into position against the cylinder head. Install nuts and tighten to 25 foot-pounds. (2) Install a new gasket on the exhaust crossover pipe flange, then raise pipe slightly to meet manifold flange. Install nuts and bolts and tighten to 40 footpounds. Installing the Right-Hand Bank Exhaust Manifold (1) Install a new gasket over the exhaust manifold mounting studs, now, slide exhaust manifold over studs and up into position against the cylinder head. Install nuts and tighten to 25 foot-pounds. (2) Install the oil filter element, gasket and cover— if removed. Tighten nut securely. (3) Install the manifold heat control valve housing and gaskets between the manifold flange and exhaust pipe. (The counterweight must be installed away from the engine.) Install bolts and nuts, then tighten to 40 foot-pounds. (4) If generator is mounted on right exhaust manifold, reinstall by securing generator and bracket to exhaust manifold extension. 4.

SERVICING THE MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE The manifold heat control valve is controlled by a thermostatic coil spring, counterweight and by the velocity of exhaust gas through the exhaust manifold. The thermostatic coil spring is installed in such manner as to maintain sufficient tension on the valve shaft to keep the valve in the "closed" position when the engine is cold. In the "closed" position, hot exhaust gases are directed across the intake manifold. This in turn pre-heats the vaporized fuel passing down through the intake manifold, resulting in smooth engine performance. Should the heat control valve become stuck in either the open or closed position, car performance would be affected. The heat control valve should be checked periodically for operation. With the engine idling, and car standing, accelerate to wide open throttle and quickly release.

VALV

54x68IA

SPRING'

Fig. 2—Typical Manifold Heat Control Valve (Exploded View)

The counterweight should respond by moving clockwise approximately ½ inch and return to its normal position. If no movement is observed, the valve shaft may be frozen or the coil spring weak or broken. In either case, the heat control valve mechanism should be disassembled and repaired. To free shaft, replace a weak or broken spring, refer to Figure 2 and proceed as follows: (1) Loosen retaining nut and remove counterweight, key and bumper from end of shaft to expose thermostatic coil spring. (2) Unhook coil spring from stop stud and remove by prying out of valve shaft slot. (3) If valve shaft is frozen in manifold, lubricate both ends with recommended solvent (Part Number 1643273) and allow to stand several minutes. Loosen by turning shaft clockwise or counter-clockwise (depending on frozen position), until shaft is free. Work shaft from closed to open position several times, until shaft can be turned very easily with the fingers. To install new thermostatic coil spring, position shaft in extreme counter-clockwise position and continue as follows: (4) Place new coil spring in position over shaft slot, with outer end (tongue) of spring in the upper left-hand position. Now press inner end of coil into slot of shaft and seat firmly. (5) Now move outer end (tongue) of spring down, around up and over stop stud, as shown in Figure 3. (6) Place counterweight over shaft (with the shield in upward position) and insert key in shaft slot, as shown in Figure 4. (7) Center counterweight on shaft and turn assembly clockwise until bumper (Fig. 6) passes the stop stud. (8) Press counterweight on shaft until seated, then tighten nut securely with socket driver, Tool T-109-173,

EXHAUST-8 CYLINDER

171

HEAT CONTROL VALVE

STOP STUD

TOOL f

`'¶

COUNTERWEIGHT

THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

VALVE SHAFT DIRECTION OF WRAP

54x685B

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

Fig. 3—Positioning Thermostat¡c Coil Spring

as shown in Figure 5. Apply recommended solvent (Part Number 1643273) to both ends of shaft. Test valve for operation as described previously. When installing heat control valve be sure the antirattle spring pin is pointing toward the front of the engine and next to the cylinder block. (See Figure 5). 5.

SERVICING THE EXHAUST PIPE, MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE

Alignment One of the most important maintenance operations of the exhaust system is alignment. A misaligned exhaust system may cause objectionable sounds or vibrations inside the car, and have often been diagnosed as a defective muffler, engine vibration or propeller shaft vibration. It is therefore recommended, that the alignment operation be completed before performing any major repairs or replacement. It should be noted that the tail pipe rear support acts as the pivot point for the entire exhaust system while the tail pipe front support assembly acts as a steady bracket for the system. In most all cases, the objectionable sounds or vibrations can be completely removed by placing the exhaust

54x687 A

Fig. 5—Tightening Counterweight Soft wífh Tool T-109-173

system in proper alignment as described herein: NOTE: Refer to F i g u r e s 7 a n d 8 w h i c h c o v e r the v a r i o u s t y p e s of supports i n s u l a t o r s a n d c l a m p s on w h i c h the e x h a u s t system is supported. (1) Loosen outlet flange nuts on both exhaust manifolds. (2) Loosen the clamp bolts holding the "Y" pipe to the exhaust pipe extension. On convertible models, loosen the clamps holding the short exhaust pipe to the "Y" pipe and the muffler. (3) Loosen tail pipe front support eccentric stud nut and loosen clamp bolts. (4) Loosen tail pipe rear support clamp nut. (5) Check all support brackets, insulators and clamps, replacing all parts damaged or broken. Both l o n g TIGHTENING BOLT

COUNTERWEIGHT

STOP

COUNTERWEIGHT

LOCKWASHER

THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING

VALVE HOUSING NUT ANT!-RATTLE SPRING

" ^ ^ • ^

54 x 686 B

Fig. 4—Installing Heat Control Valve Counterweight

54 x 688

Fig. 6—Heat Control Valve Counterweight

172

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x92 Fig. 7—Tail Pipe Front Support, Bracket and Clamp

and short axes of the exhaust muffler must be parallel to the ground. Roll tail pipe until desired clearance (½ inch) between exhaust system and other parts of car has been obtained. The tail pipe should be positioned so that the insulator and support, just behind the muffler, is in a vertical position, as shown in Figure 7 (not at an angle). The rear outlet of tail pipe must be in line with clamp on tail pipe, when support is in a vertical position. After checking the system as outlined, tighten as follows: (6) Tighten the tail pipe rear support clamp nut securely. (7) Tighten tail pipe front support clamp nuts securely. Do not t i g h t e n e c c e n t r i c stud nut a t this time. (8) Tighten clamp bolt nuts connecting "Y" pipe to exhaust pipe extension. (9) Tighten the left hand exhaust manifold outlet flange nuts e v e n l y . (10) Tighten the right hand exhaust manifold outlet flange nuts e v e n l y . (11) At the tail pipe front support assembly, be sure the eccentric stud is installed into the rubber insulator with the eccentric stud resting at the bottom of the elongated hole in the rubber insulator. Tighten stud nut securely. After the system has been tightened, re-check to be sure the proper clearance (½ inch) between the exhaust system and other parts of the car has been maintained.

REPLACING THE EXHAUST PIPE, MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE

When removing parts, it is advisable to lubricate the nuts and bolts with a good grade penetrating oil and allow to stand for several minutes before disassembly.

57x93 Fig. 8—Tail Pipe Rear Support and Clamp

The connection clamps should be rapped sharply with a plastic hammer to loosen if rusted to the pipes.

Removing "Y" Exhaust Pipe (1) Remove the clamp nuts and bolts that hold the "Y" pipe to the exhaust extension. Slightly pry the clamp apart, then with the aid of a soft hammer, slide clamp back along extension pipe. (2) Using a hacksaw, cut crossover pipe as close "Y" as possible. (3) Remove the two stud nuts and lockwasher that hold the crossover pipe to the left-hand manifold flange. Remove left-hand exhaust pipe from car. (4) Remove bolt holding steering idler arm to bracket, allowing idler arm and link to drop. (5) Remove the two bolts and nuts that hold the exhaust pipe and heat control valve to the right-hand exhaust manifold. Then, work exhaust "Y" pipe part torsion bar spring and out through bottom of car. (6) When replacing the exhaust pipes a 2 inch (O.D.) piece of steel tubing may be used to close the area where the cut was made. Secure sleeve with clamps and tighten securely. Reset idler arm in bracket and tighten bolt securely. When installing "Y" exhaust pipe be sure to use new gaskets. Tighten all flange bolts and nuts evenly so as not to distort or strain exhaust system. (See "Alignment" Paragraph 5).

Removing Muffler (1) Remove the clamp nuts and bolts that hold the tail pipe to the muffler. (2) Loosen the tail pipe rear support clamp nut. Now, work the tail pipe out of muffler with a twisting motion. (3) Remove the clamp nuts and bolts that hold the exhaust extension pipe to the "Y" pipe. Slightly pry

FRAME the clamp apart, then slide back along exhaust extension pipe. (4) Work the exhaust extension out of the "Y" pipe with a twisting motion, and remove from under car. When installing a new muffler, align the system as described in "Alignment" Paragraph 5. Removing The Tail Pipe (1) Remove the tail pipe rear support insulator nut and bolt, then remove the muffler rear support insulator bolt and nut. (2) Loosen the tail pipe to muffler clamp bolts and

173

nuts, then slide clamp along tail pipe out of the way. (3) Work the tail pipe out of the muffler and out from under the car. When installing a new tail pipe, align the exhaust system as described in "Alignment" Paragraph 5. 7. DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM The service procedure for the dual exhaust system (removal and installation) will be comparable to the exhaust system for the six cylinder engines, except that there is an individual exhaust pipe, muffler and tail pipe for each side.

FRAME SERVICE INFORMATION 1. FRAME ALIGNMENT Correct frame alignment is of great importance in easy handling and control of the vehicle. Improper frame alignment is usually the result of an accident which in turn causes misalignment, placing undue strain on various parts of the entire vehicle, affecting wheel alignment and causing annoying squeaks, rattles, and excessive tire wear. Figures 1-2 show the various dimensions to be used as a guide for checking frame alignment. These dimensions are the true distance between the two points as measured with a steel tape. Figure 3 shows a few of the various diagonal measurements that may be taken to check the "squareness" of the frame. Diagonal measuring will quickly deter-

mine which section of the frame is bent and where force should be applied to restore correct alignment. To properly check a frame for alignment, diagonal measurement should be performed with great care. When the body is removed, the frame may be easily checked for alignment by measuring diagonals shown in Figure 3 with trammels or steel tape and checking dimensions given in Figures 1-2. Measurements may be taken without removing the body from the chassis by using a plumb-bob and chalk line as follows: (1) Place the car on a level floor. (2) Attach the line of a plumb-bob to the center of one of the rear body bolts. The plumb-bob should be suspended slightly above the floor. When the plumbbob comes to rest, mark the floor directly underneath it.

GAUGE HOLE IN EACH SIDE OF FRAME

Fig. 1-Frame Dimensions (D-66, D-67, DÂŻ7O, D-71-Typical of Model D-72)

57x103

174

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

GAUGE HOLE IN EACH SIDE OF FRAME -I99‰ 57×554

Fig. 2—Frame Dimensions (D-66, D-67 Convertible Models) (3) Then using the plumb-bob, mark the floor directly underneath the center of the other body bolts shown in Figure 3. The marks made on the floor will represent various points of the frame to be checked diagonally. (4) Move the car away so that the distance between the marks on the floor can be measured. (5) Measure the distance between the points connected by line "A," in Figure 3. This distance should agree within ¼ inch with the distance between the points connected by line "B." (6) The distance between points connected by line "C" should agree within ¼ inch with the distance between points connected by line "D." The diagonals shown in Figure 3 represent only a few that may be checked. Many other diagonals may be measured in the same way. For example, if some of the frame body brackets are bent, diagonals may be checked from corresponding points on the frame side

rails or cross members. Care should b e t a k e n to

make sure that any two diagonals compared represent exactly corresponding points on e a c h side of the frame. Correct frame alignment can usually be restored by straightening the frame parts which have been bent, although badly distorted frame parts, due to a serious accident, can in most cases be replaced more economically than by attempting repairs. When assembling the body to the frame, the body should be properly aligned so that it and the frame will fit together without the necessity of forcing the body bolts in place. 2.

SERVICING BODY SUPPORT BRACKETS (Frame Welding) The shielded arc-weld method is recommended for frame welding. The heat generated during the welding

Fig. 3—Typical Frame Diagonal Measurements

188

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Manifold heat control valve stuck Compression not within limits Incorrect spark plug gap Incorrect distributor point gap Low boiling point fuel (winter fuel in summer) Carburetor icing Internal coolant leak Insufficient fuel pump vacuum Heat riser not working Damaged main metering jet Damaged tip or bad shoulder seat of main discharge jet Vacuum piston work or stuck Automatic choke not operating properly Incorrect fuel pump pressure Restricted air cleaner Leaking float High float or fuel level Damaged fuel inlet needle or seat Worn main metering jet Sticking choke Overloading (pulling trailers, etc.) Improper rear axle ratio Wrong speedometer pinion Brakes or wheel bearings dragging Driving at excessive speeds Low tire pressure Short trip or heavy traffic driving Driving in snow or mud Driving in high winds Unnecessary use of accelerator Incorrect distributor advance Detonation or preignition Worn camshaft Sticking valves Elevation or atmospheric conditions Restricted tail pipe or muffler Cracked body Defective body gaskets Loww fuel pump pressure or vacuum Accelerator pump plunger leather worn, hard or loose stem Faulty accelerator pump discharge Faulty coil Accelerator pump inlet check valve faulty Worn throttle linkage Carburetor dirty

# •

Poor Acceleration

Carburetor Floods or Leaks

Excessive Fuel Consumption

Poor Performance (Mixture too rich)

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Poor Performance (Mixture too lean)

CONDITIONS maþ>

Poor Idling

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

• • • • •

•

í 4 í # • • •

í • • • • •

• • • •

• • •

• •

•

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V 8

189

2 BARREL W W SERIES V¯8 CARBURETOR CONTENTS Accelerating System Automatic Choke Carburetor Adjustments Carburetor Model Identification Choke Closed—Fast Idle—Cold Engine Choke Partially Open—Engine Warming Up Cleaning Carburetor Parts Engine Warm — Choke Open — Slow Idle Float System General Description Idle System Inspection and Reassembly Installation of Carburetor on Engine Main Metering System Removal of Carburetor from Car Servicing the Carburetor The Power System

Par.

Page

— — 51 — — — 3 — — — — 4 6 — 1 2 —

190 190 199 191 191 191 196 191 189 189 189 196 201 189 193 193 189

SERVICE INFORMATION

2 BARREL CARBURETOR GENERAL DESCRIPTION The WW series carburetor is of the dual throat down draft type with each throat having its own idle system, main metering system, and throttle valve. The idle systern and main metering system are supplemented by the float system, the accelerating system and the power system. The operation of the five basic systems as well as the automatic choke are described briefly as follows: THE FLOAT SYSTEM The function of the float system is to maintain a constant level of fuel in the float chamber at all times and under all conditions of operation. Fuel enters the carburetor at the fuel inlet, flowing through the inlet needle valve and seat into the float chamber where the fuel is maintained at a definite level by the float. The float chamber is vented through an internal vent tube which connects the float chamber to the air inlet of the carburetor. Since the float chamber and the air inlet are interconnected, the same pressure is maintained in the float chamber as in the air horn; therefore, any accumulation of dirt in the air cleaner, causing restriction to the air flow, will not upset the air-fuel mixture ratio. THE IDLE SYSTEM xxr-xi. xi. i_ i , ¶ , With the throttle valves closed, and the engine running at slow idle speed, fuel from the float chamber is metered into the idle tubes through an orifice at the base of each idle tube. The air taken in through the idle air

bleed holes mixes with the fuel as it leaves the top of · This mixture of air and fuel flows down the channel where it is mixed with additional air enterinCT through the secondary idle air bleeds before being discharged at the lower idle discharge holes. The quantity of fuel discharged at these holes is controlled by t h e adjustable idle mixture screws. As the throttle valves are opened slightly, the mixture of fuel and air is also discharged from the upper idle discharge holes supplying additional fuel for increased engine speed. THE MAIN METERING SYSTEM T h e m a i n m e t e r i n g s y s t e m controls the flow of fuel duri n g t h e intermediate or part throttle range of operation, W i t ¾ † h e t h r o t t l e v a l v e s in the partially open position, fuel flows f r o m t h e float c h a m b e r through the main m e t e r i n g jete and into the main discharge jets, where air f r o m t h e h i g h s p e e d a i r b l e e d e r s is mixed with the fuel, T h i s m i x t u r e o f a i r a n d { u e i i s then discharged into the a i r s t r e a m t h r o u g h t h e auxiliary venturi tubes. The m a m b o d y Q n d m a i n d i s c h a r g e jets are designed to p r e vent percolation. Should vapor bubbles form in the f u e l e n t e r i n g t h e m a i n discharge system, due to high temperatures, the vapor bubbles will collect in the outside channels surrounding the main discharge jets, rise into **16 dome shaped high speed air bleeders and escape through the bleed hole.

t h e idle tubes

THE POWER SYSTEM The power system is incorporated in the carburetor to provide the richer mixture required for maximum

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

190

power or high speed operation. The extra fuel is supplied by the vacuum power system which is connected directly to the main metering system. A vacuum controlled piston automatically operates the power by-pass jet. Intake manifold vacuum is maintained above the vacuum piston through a channel which connects the vacuum piston with the mounting flange of the carburetor. During normal part throttle operation, the vacuum above the piston is sufficient to overrule the compression spring and holds the power piston in its "up" position. When the throttle valve is opened to a point where manifold vacuum drops to approximately 5 inches Hg., the compression spring then moves the vacuum piston "down" to the power by-pass jet and meters additional fuel into the main metering system. ACCELERATING SYSTEM To insure a smooth uninterrupted flow of power during acceleration, additional fuel must be metered into the engine. This is accomplished through the use of an accelerating pump, which is operated by the throttle linkage. As the throttle valves are opened, the accelerating pump piston moves "DOWN" to close the inlet ball check valve and force a metered quantity of extra fuel through the outlet ball check valve and pump discharge nozzle into the air stream. A slotted type of pump lever is used. When the throttle is closed, the piston is raised against the compression of the duration spring. When the throttle is opened, the pump lever moves down and permits the compression spring above the piston to move the piston down. The calibrated spring provides a prolonged action to extend the supply of fuel over a metered period of time. FAST IDLE LEVER-\

—:

With the release of the accelerator pedal and the return of the accelerating pump to the release position, the outlet ball check valve "CLOSES" while the inlet ball check valve "REOPENS," thus permitting fuel from the float chamber to enter and refill the accelerating pump cylinder. AUTOMATIC CHOKE The automatic choke used in this series carburetor is of the cross-over type. The choke operates through a combination of linkage that connects the choke thermostatic coil spring to the offset choke valve, and a vacuum choke piston in the air horn. The thermostatic coil spring is located in a well directly over the exhaust cross-over passage in the intake manifold, as shown in Figure 19. The vacuum choke piston is connected to the choke valve through a link and pin. The heat generated in the well of the intake manifold by the exhaust cross-over passage acts on the thermostatic coil spring so that as the engine warms up the choke valve moves toward the open position. The position of the choke valve is further controlled by the action of manifold vacuum on the choke piston. Fresh clair air flowing into the carburetor through the air cleaner is utilized by the choke piston. A portion of this air enters the choke piston cylinder through the choke piston link opening in the air horn. The offset choke valve tends to position itself according to engine speed and load conditions, governed by the air flowing into the carburetor. The combination of these features provides the required choke mixture calibration for efficient operation. To prevent choking a warm or hot engine, the heat retained by the intake manifold prevents the thermostatic coil spring from

jrCHOKE VALVE (Closed)

CHOKE VALVE (Closed

x x

57x 1Ì2

. 1—Choke Closed—Fast Idle—Cold Engine

191

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V 8

cooling off too quickly and thereby closing the choke valve while the engine is still hot. The choke is connected to the fast idle cam which provides the necessary increased idle speed during the warm-up period. CHOKE CLOSED—FAST IDLE—COLD ENGINE As the engine cools, the thermostatic coil spring also cools and gradually gains tension, (see Figure 1). The thermostatic spring, however, is unable to close the choke valve until the throttle valves are opened sufficiently to move the fast idle stop screw away from the fast idle cam. The tension on the thermostatic spring will then close the choke valve according to the prevailing temperature. As the engine begins to operate, manifold vacuum exerts a pull on the vacuum piston to open the choke valve just enough to supply the necessary air for a running mixture. CHOKE PARTIALLY OPEN-ENGINE WARMING UP As the engine warms, the amount the choke valve opens is governed by the pressure of air against the offset choke valve, (see Figure 2). The heat from the manifold gradually decreases the tension of the thermostatic coil spring until the spring offers no further resistance to the opening of the choke valve. With the engine partially warm, the fast idle stop screw will rest on a lower step on the fast idle cam when the accelerator is released to allow the engine to idle at a slower idle speed. ENGINE WARM—CHOKE O P E N SLOW IDLE When the engine reaches its normal operating temperature and the accelerator is released, (see Figure 3), CHOKE VALVE {Partially Opened)

FAST IDLE LEVER

THROTTLE VALVES (Closed)

57x113

Fig. 2—Choke Partially Open—Engine Warming Up

CHOKE VALVE (Open)

FAST IDLE STOP SCREW

THROTTLE VALVE (Closed)

SLOW IDLEADJUSTMENT SCREW

57x114 . 3—Engine Warm—Choke Open—Slow Idle

the fast idle cam rotates to its fully released position with space between the fast idle cam and the end of the fast idle stop screw. In this position the throttle opening is controlled entirely by the slow idle adjustment screw. CARBURETOR MODEL IDENTIFICATION (See Figure 4) All WW type carburetors have the model code number stamped on the air horn cover. Before attempting to repair or overhaul a carburetor, refer to model code number and secure repair kit for number indicated on cover.

CROSS-OVER CHOKE

CHOKE PISTON LINK

3-149 (STANDARD" TRANSMISSION) 3-150 (POWERFLITE OR TORQUE FLITE TRANSMISSION)

Fig. 4—Carburetor Identification

57x85

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

192

SCREW COTTERPIN CHOKE PISTON LEVER

HAIRPIN CLIP PIVOT SCREW

CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE SHAFT WASHER

CLIP

ROCKER ARM AIR HORN CHOKE PISTON

SCREW (AIR HORN)

PLUG

CHOKE LEVER

GASKET

CROSS-OVER AUTOMATIC CHOKE

IDLE ROD V A C U U M POWER PISTON WASHER POWER BY-PASS JET SPRING

GASKET CLUSTER SCREW

ACCELERATOR PUMP

BASKET INLET CHECK BALL

DISCHARGE CLUSTER GASKET

FULCRUM PIN RETAINER

DISCHARGE CHECK BALL FLOAT TUBES

FULCRUM PIN

M A I N BODY FAST IDLE C A M NEEDLE VALVE, SEAT A N D

GASKET PIVOT

PLUGS

HAIRPIN CLIP

M A I N DISCHARGE JETS (TUBES) GASKET M A I N METERING JETS THROTTLE VALVES GASKETS

THROTTLE BODY IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

M A I N JET PLUGS

FAST IDLE SCREW

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREW

SPRING

THROTTLE BODY SCREWS PUMP ROD-

COTTERPIN SCREW THROTTLE SHAFT A N D LEVER-

Fig. 5â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Carburetor Assembly (Exploded View)

57x116

FUEL - CARBURETOR ¯ V 8

193

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES There are two models of the WW series carburetor, depending on the type of transmission with which the car is equipped. The same basic design applies to both models regardless of adaptions. Refer to Specifications for detailed information. (1) Model WW 3 - 1 4 9 , is used when the car is equipped with the Standard 3 Speed Transmission only. (2) Model WW 3 - 1 5 0 , is used when the car is equipped with either the PowerFlite or Torque-Flite Transmissions. (This carburetor varies only in the idle system, the fast idle cam positioning setting, the vacuum kick setting and the calibration of the choke thermostatic coil spring.)

REMOVAL OF CARBURETOR FROM CAR

Should it become necessary to remove the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, the following procedure is recommended: (1) Remove the air cleaner and gasket. (2) Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. (3) Disconnect the vacuum spark advance control tube. Remove bolts holding choke unit to intake manifold. (4) Disconnect the throttle linkage and throttle return spring from the carburetor throttle lever. (5) Now, remove the carburetor and cross-over choke.

CHOKE PiSTON CYLINDER

— HOCKER ARM

CHOKï SHAFT CHOKE SHAFT LEVER CUP

SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance. When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job: (a) All parts should be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for damage or wear. (b) Use air pressure only, to clear the various orifices and channels. (c) Replace questionable parts with NEW ones. When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is at times rather difficult to be sure they are satisfactory for further service. It is therefore recommended that in such case, NEW parts be installed. To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figures 4, 5 or 6 (depending on model of carburetor) then proceed as follows: (1) Place the carburetor assembly on repair block Tool C-3225. (This Tool is used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.) Disconnect cross-over choke rod. (2) Remove the cotterpin that holds the pump operating in the center hole of the throttle lever. Disengage rod from lever. (3) Remove the fast idle rod. (Rotate fast idle rod far enough to disengage from the thermostat crank arm, as shown in Figure 7.) (4) Now remove the air horn. (5) Disengage the accelerator pump plunger rod from the rocker arm by removing hairpin clip. Disengage plunger, and rod from air horn. Now slide pump FAST IDLE ROD CHOKE LEVER

COTTER HAIRPIN CLIP PUMP OPERATING ROD ¯^ REPAIR S T A N D -

FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW -PUMP OPERATING ROD

`` THROTTLE lEV¢R

Fig. 6—Carburetor Assembly

57x86

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Fast Idle Rod

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

194 PUMP PLUNGER, SPRING AND ROD

IDLE TUBE END WRENCH IDLE PASSAGES

WOOD BLOCK

DISTRIBUTOR TUBE CONNECTION FITTING (VACUUM)

POWER PISTON STAKED IN AIR HORN

PUMP SEAL WASHER

54x416 A

Fig. 8—Removing Vacuum Piston from Air Horn IDLE TUBE

seal washer and spring off end of rod. P l a c e t h e accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out. (6) Remove the vacuum power piston from the air horn, using an open end wrench and wood blocks, a s shown in Figure 8. (Exert sufficient pressure on end of wrench to force piston out of air horn. This assembly is staked and care should be used at removal.) (7) Remove the screws that hold the choke valve and the choke piston link bracket to the choke shaft, as shown in Figure 9. T h e s e s c r e w s a r e s t a k e d to prevent loosening, and extreme care is necess a r y to a v o i d b r e a k i n g off i n c h o k e shaft. (8) Lift out choke valve, allowing link and bracket to hang, then withdraw the choke shaft and lever out of the air horn. (9) Lift the idle tubes out of the main body, as

Fig. 10—Removing or Installing Idle Tubes

shown in Figure 10. (The idle tubes are interchangeable.) (10) Invert the carburetor main body, and drop out the accelerator pump inlet check ball. Do not attempt to remove the high-speed bleeders located in the main discharge strut section of the carburetor main body. (See Figure 11.) (11) Remove the screw and gasket from the accelerator pump discharge cluster, then lift off cluster and gasket, as shown in Figure 12. (12) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out the accelerator pump discharge check ball from the center of the discharge strut section. (See Figure 21.) (13) Remove the fuel inlet needle, valve seat and gasket assembly. Discard the gasket. HIGH SPEED BLEEDERS (DO NOT REMOVE FROM MAIN BODY

PISTON LINK

57x87

ACCELERATOR PUMP DISCHARGE CLUSTER

DO NOT BEND OR LOOSEN BOWL VENT TUBE

CHOKE VALVE

57x88 56x4

Fig. 9—Removing or Installing Choke Valve

Fig. 11—High-Speed Bleeders (Do not Remove from Main Body)

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8

195

CHOKE VENT SCREW DISCHARGE CLUSTER GASKET

POWER BY-PASS JET

57x91

57x89

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing Discharge Cluster

(14) Using a small screwdriver, pry out the float fulcrum pin retaining spring. (Cup the hand over the float chamber to prevent the spring from flying out.) Lift out the float and fulcrum pin, as shown in Figure 13. (15) Remove the power by-pass jet and gasket, as shown in Figure 14. (16) Remove the screws and lockwashers that hold the throttle body to the main body. Lift off the throttle body. Discard the gasket. (17) With the main body in an inverted position, remove the main jet plugs, using Tool T-19099, 24968 and 25184. Discard the plug gaskets. (18) Using Tool T-24924, remove the main metering jets, as shown in Figure 15. FLOAT

Fig. 14—Removing or Installing Power By-Pass Jet

(19) Now, remove the main discharge jets (or tubes), using Tool T-24967. This Tool has a tapered right hand thread and should be screwed into jet. The threads that are formed in the jet during removal, will not damage the jet. (20) Unscrew and remove the idle mixture adjusting screws and springs, from the throttle body. The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units, namely, the air horn, main body and throttle body, and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts. To install new valves or throttle shaft, refer to Inspection and Reassembly Paragraph.

FULCRUM PIN

/" ¯ì

ìf^

NEEDLE VALVE NEEDLE VALVE SEAT

FLOAT RETAINING SPRING

57x90

Fig. 13—Removing or Installing Float and Flucrum Pin

54x425 Fig. 15—Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets

196

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

3 CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. However, there are other commercial solvents which may be used with satisfactory results. IMPORTANT If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance. 4.

INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY

Throttle Body (1) Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme, it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced, rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body. During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control ports to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly. (See Figure 16.) If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. However, if it has been determined that a new shaft is to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions:

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS

THROTTLE SHAFT A N D LEVER

THROTTLE VALVES

VALVE ATTACHING SCREWS (NEW) 57x100

Fig. 17—Removing or Installing Throttle Valves (2) Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced in the same bore from` whence removed. (3) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the throttle shaft, then slide the valves out of the thottle shaft. CAUTION: T h e s e s c r e w s a r e s t a k e d o n the opposite s i d e a n d c a r e s h o u l d b e u s e d at r e m o v a l so a s not to b r e a k t h e s c r e w s in the shaft. (4) Slide the throttle shaft out of the throttle body. (5) Install the new throttle shaft and lever in the throttle body, as shown in Figure 17. The fast idle lever should rest against the idle speed adjusting screw. T h e

idle speed adjusting screw must be backed out when seating the valves in the following operation. The "dash" stamped on the valves must be toward the idle port and visible from the top of the throttle body when valves are installed. The notch cut in the edge

IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS THROTTLE BODY (BOTTOM VIEW)

DASH MARKS O N THROTTLE VALVES IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

57x99

Fig. 16—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

Fig. 18—Installing Throttle Valves

197

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V 8 of the throttle valves should be centered over idle discharge port. (See Figure 16.) (6) Slide the valves in position through the throttle shaft, then insert NEW screws, but do not tighten. Now hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 18. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.) (7) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers. (8) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth.) If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than the occasional cleaning the automatic choke control requires no servicing. However, it is very important that the choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft. Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. If unit binds, a new unit should be installed. The Cross-over Choke Control Unit is serviced only as a complete unit. Do not attempt to repair. There are two different thermostitic coil spring control units available for service and it is very important that the correct unit be installed in each respective case.

Figure 19 shows the component parts of the control unit along with the number stamped on the crown of the cover. A cover stamped with the number 40 should be used only when the car is equipped with a standard 3 speed transmission. Whereas, a cover stamped with the number 41 should only be used when the car is equipped with the PowerFlite or Torque-Flite Transmissions. The thermostatic coil springs are of different calibrations and if the incorrect unit is installed adverse choke operation will result. When installing the cross-over choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the well. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation. Do not lubricate any parts of the choke or control unit since this causes dirt accumulation which would result in binding of the choke mechanism. Do not attempt to change the calibration setting. This is predetermined and should it be changed, improper choke action would result. Clean all choke parts using a suitable solvent and then blow dry with compressed air. Examine all choke parts for wear or damage (except choke piston). Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new in order to insure proper choke operation. The vacuum choke piston in the air horn is serviced in the air horn assembly only. The welsh plug that retains the choke piston and link is a factory sealed plug and should not be removed under a n y condition. Inasmuch as the choke piston utilizes clean, fresh air from the air cleaner, no service other than blowing out with compressed air is required. If the choke piston is worn, sticks or binds in its cylinder, a new air horn assembly should be installed. Do not lubricate any of the choke operating parts.

CHOKE ROD

DIAGONAL CUT TOWARD OPPOSITE SIDE OF SMALL VENTURI

CONTROL UNIT IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS "40" OR " 4 1 "

DUST SEAL WASHER

CALIBRATION MARKS THERMOSTATIC COILSPRING AND HOUSING

LOCK NUT MAIN DISCHARGE JET (OR TUBE) INDEX MARK 57x121

Fig. 19—Cross-over Choke Control

54x437

F¡g. 20—Installing Main Discharge Jets (or Tubes)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

198

inch diameter) in the check ball seat at the bottom of the pump cylinder, as shown in Figure 21. (7) Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball (½ inch diameter) in the orifice in the center passage of the discharge strut section of the main body, as shown in Figure 22.

57x115 Fig. 21—Installing Accelerator Pump Check Ball

Reassembling the Carburetor Main Body (1) Place the assembled throttle body on the inverted main body, using a new gasket. Install screws and lockwashers, then tighten securely. (2) Place the main discharge jets (or tubes) firmly on Tool T-24967, as shown in Figure 20. Now, slide into position in the main body. Be sure the opening in the end of tube (diagonal cut end) is facing the opposite side of the small venturi. T h e s e t w o jets must b e s e a t e d firmly in t h e m a i n body. (3) Insert the main metering jets in the body over the discharge jets (or tubes) just installed. Tighten securely, using Tool T-24924. (See Figure 15.) (4) Slide new copper gaskets in the main jet plug openings, then insert the plugs and tighten securely. (5) Invert the carburetor and place on repair block C-3225,.then install the power by-pass jet and new gasket. (6) Install the accelerator pump inlet check ball ( ‰

Accelerator Pump Test (1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl, approximately ½ inch deep. Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and slide down into the pump cylinder. Raise the plunger and press lightly on the plunger shaft to expel the air from the pump passage. (2) Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly down on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should ^e emitted from either the intake or discharge passage, as shown in Figure 23. (3) If any fuel does emit from either the intake or discharge passages, it indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check ball. The passages should be recleaned and then thoroughly blown out with compressed air. Examine the check ball for signs of damage that would not allow the ball to seat properly. (4) Reinstall check ball and test again. If still leaking, place a piece of drill rod down on ball and rap sharply with a hammer. Remove old check ball and install new ball. Then retest. (This operation forms a new ball seat in the carburetor casting.) (5) Install the discharge cluster gasket, cluster and screw. Tighten securely. (See Figure 12.) Again depress the accelerator pump plunger. A clear straight stream should emit from each cluster jet. If the streams are not identical (if either one is diverted or restricted), a new discharge cluster should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove the accelerator pump plunger. %: /

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I ^ B B E EMITTED ^ K l · l E R E (PUMP MH|DISCHARGE ^•PASSAGE)

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SHBRASS ROD

22—Installing Discharge Check Ball

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NO FUEL TO B | H EMITTED HERE """™ (PUMP INTAKE PASSAGE)

^^^•57x118

Fig. 23—Teskig Accelerator Pump Intake and Discharge Check Balls

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8

199

Assembling the Main Body

Install the idle tubes in the main body. (See Figure 10.) These tubes are interchangeable. TOOL

FLOAT LIP HELD AGAINST FUEL INLET NEEDLE 57x119

Fig. 24—Checking Float Setting

(6) Check the float for leaks or damage. If satisfactory for further service, install in position in the carburetor bowl. (7) Assemble the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket, then insert in position in the main body. Tighten securely. (If the needle is ridged or badly worn, install a new needle valve and seat assembly.) (8) Install the float fulcrum pin retaining spring in position and force under lip of boss to keep fulcrum pin in position. Checking Float Height (1) Using a "T" scale or Tool T-26019, check the float setting, as shown in Figure 24. The top of float must be % 2 inch from the top of main body (gasket removed) with the gauge at the center of float and the float lip held firmly against the fuel inlet needle. D o not b e n d float l i p b y forcing float. U s e Tool T - 2 4 7 3 3 , a s shown in Figure 2 5 . (2) To change the float setting, bend the float lip toward the needle to lower, and away from needle to raise the float.

Assembling Air Horn (1) Slide the choke shaft into air horn with choke lever pointing toward pump end of air horn. Slide the choke valve down into slot in shaft. Hold the choke valve closed, then position choke piston bracket and install new screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with a screwdriver to center and locate the valve. Tighten screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers. (See Figure 9.) (2) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Check the pump leather. If the leather is hard, cracked or worn, install a new accelerator pump assembly. Be sure and flex the leather several times before installing plunger rod through the air horn. (3) Install the vacuum power piston and plunger in the air horn, as shown in Figure 26. Lock in position by prick punching on the retaining rim. Compress the piston plunger to be sure no binding exists. If the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder smooth operation, install a new piston assembly. (4) Slide a new air horn gasket over accelerator pump plunger, and down against air horn. Now, lower air horn straight down on main body, with the accelerator pump plunger sliding into its well. (Be sure the leather on the pump does not curl or fold back.) Install air horn retaining screws and lockwashers, then tighten securely. Install the accelerator pump and choke connector rods, then work the accelerator pump plunger several times, to be sure it operates freely. 5.

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

It is very important that the following adjustments be PLUNGER AND SPRING

TOOL STAKE IN POSITION AFTER INSTALLATION

FLOAT

FLOAT LIP

57x120

Fig. 25—Bending Float Lip, Using Bending Tool

AIR HORN

54x442

Fig. 26—Installing Vacuum Power Piston

200

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

FAST IDLE ROD BEND AS REQUIRED)

TOOL****

FAST IDLE ROD (BEND AS REQUIRED) FAST IDLE STOP ADJUSTING SCREW

57×Ì55 FAST IDLE CAM

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW THROTTLE LEVER TANG

57x153

Fig. 27-Fast Idle Adjustment

made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed namely. Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position Adjustment Unloader Adjustment (wide open kick) Vacuum Kick Adjustment Accelerator Pump Travel Adjustment Fast Idle Speed and Cam Position Adjustment (1) To make the fast idle speed and cam position adjustment, turn the idle speed adjusting screw out far enough to clear the throttle lever tang when the throttle valves are closed. (2) Hold the throttle valves in closed position, then turn the fast idle adjusting screw out until the fast idle cam can be positioned, as shown in Figure 27. (3) From the point of initial contact with the step of the cam as shown, turn the fast idle screw i n 5½ turns. (4) With the fast idle screw held in the position illus-

LIGHT FINGER PRESSURE AGAINST VALVE

WALL OF AIRHORN

Fig. 29—Bending Fast Idle Rod

trated, close the choke valve and insert a number 12 or 24 drill between the choke valve and wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 28. (5) If adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle rod at the upper bend, as shown in Figure 29, until correct opening has been obtained. (Use Tool T-109-213.) Unloader Adjustment (wide open kick) (1) To make the unloader adjustment, lightly hold the choke valve closed, then open the throttle valves to wide open position. The choke valve should open sufficiently to allow a number 19 drill to be inserted between the cKbke valve and wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 30. (2) To adjust, bend the tang of the throttle lever using Tool T109-214, as shown in Figure 31. (3) Hold choke open and then open and close the throttle valves. Failure to obtain full throttle operation indicates improper assembly or adjustment of the choke mechanism. (4.) With the throttle valves held in open position, open the choke valve slowly to wide open position. There should be no bind throughout the entire travel of choke mechanism. CHOKE VALVE N O . 19 DRILL

N O . 12 DRILL FOR 3-149 CARBURETOR N O . 24 DRILL FOR 3-150 CARBURETOR

CHOKE VALVE STEP OF FAST IDLE CAM

FAST IDLE SCREW

BEND T A N G OF THROTTLE LEVER (AS REQUIRED)

THROTTLE LEVER (IN WIDE OPEN POSITION)

IDLE SPEED SCREW

57x154

Fig. 28—Checking Choke Valve Opening

57x156 Fig. 32—Vacuum Kick Adjustment

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V 8

THROTTIE LEVER TANG BEND AS REQUIRED)

201

9/32 TO 5/16 INCH

ROD IN CENTER HOLE OF LEVER THROTTLE LEVER (CLOSED POSITION)

57×Ì57 F¡g. 31—Bending Tang on Throttle lever

Vacuum Kick Adjustment (1) To make the vacuum kick adjustment, bend a paper clip or a piece of .040 inch diameter wire into the shape shown in Figure 32. Insert the bent end into the slot at the bottom of the vacuum piston bore, as shown in Figure 32. (2) Apply a light closing pressure against the choke valve. (3) With the wire held in place between the piston and the end of slot, it should be possible to insert a number 3 or ¼" drill between the choke valve and wall of air horn. (See Figure 32.) (4) If adjustment is necessary, bend the ear on the choke piston lever until correct clearance has been obtained.

Accelerator Pump Adjustment The following adjustment is made with the accelerator pump rod in the center hole of the throttle lever. (1) To check the accelerator pump travel, hold the carburetor in a vertical position, then operate the accelerator pump to permit the check ball at the bottom of well to take its normal position on seat.

57x159

Fig. 33—Accelerator Pump Adjustment

(2) With the choke valve held open, measure the travel of the accelerator pump as the throttle valves are moved from fully closed to wide open position. The accelerator pump travel should measure from % 2 to ¾ 6 inches, as shown in Figure 33. (3) To adjust, remove the accelerator pump rod from the center hole in the throttle lever and bend (at angle), using Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure 34. Bend until correct travel has been obtained. Re-install rod.

INSTALLATION OF CARBURETOR ON ENGINE

(1) Place a new carburetor to manifold gasket of the proper size on the intake manifold, then install the carburetor. (2) Before tightening the attaching nuts, start the

FOR CARBURETOR 3-149 USE 1/4 INCH DRILL CARBURETOR 3-150 USE NO. 3 DRILL CHOKE VALVE GAUGE (.040") VACUUM PISTON

PUMP ROD (BEND AS REQUIRED) PISTON LEVER EAR (BEND AS REQUIRED) 57x158

F¡g. 30—Unloader Adjustment

57x160

TOOL

F¡g. 34—Bending Accelerator Pump Rod

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

202

fuel line and vacuum spark. This will prevent a possibility of stripping the threads on these connections. (3) Complete tightening of the manifold stud nuts, fuel and spark control. (4) Attach the throttle control rod and return spring.

(5) Install choke control unit and connect rod to choke shaft, using spring clip. Tighten bolts that hold unit to intake manifold securely. Install the air cleaner and gasket. Then adjust the carburetor.

2¯BARREL STROMBERG CARBURETOR—6 CYLINDER CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N Carburetor Adjustments Carburetor Model Identification General Description Cleaning Carburetor Parts Inspection and Reassembly Installation of Carburetor on Engine Removal of Carburetor from Car Servicing the Carburetor

Par. 5 — — 3 4 6 1 2

Page 212 202 202 208 208 215 204 204

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL DESCRIPTION The WW series carburetor for the six cylinder is of the dual throat down draft type with each throat having its own idle system, main metering system, and throttle valve. The idle system and main metering system are supplemented by the float system, the accelerating system, and the power system. ACCELERATOR PUMP ROCKER ARM

-AIR

HORN

CHOKE VALVE

ACCELERATOR PUMP

Incorporated in the carburetor is an automatic integral choke of the hot air type that is cast with the throttle body and connected to the choke shaft through a rod and lever. The fast idle mechanism is incorporated in the automatic choke housing.

CARBURETOR MODEL IDENTIFICATION (See Figures 1, 2) All WW type carburetors have the model code number stamped on the air horn cover. Before attempting to repair or overhaul a carburetor, refer to model code

THROTTLE SHAFT A N D LEVER

IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS (2) THROTTLE BODY REPAIR BLOCK

Fig. 1-Cqrburetor Assemblies (WW3-159, 3-160)

Fig. 2—Carburetor Identification

FUEL-CARBURETOR-6

CHOKE SHAFT AND LEVER

CYLINDER

203

CHOKE VALVE v·n

SCREW

SCREW (AIR HORN)

FAST IDLE ROD

MODEL IDENTIFICATION TAG

COTTER PINK ft

HAIR PIN C L I P ^ '

GASKET

PUMP SEAL WASHER VACUUM POWER PISTON

PUMP SPRING GASKET POWER BY-PASS JET

CLUSTER SCREW GASKET

ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER

DISCHARGE CLUSTER INLET CHECK BALL

GASKET DISCHARGE CHECK BALL

FULCRUM PIN RETAINER

IDLE TUBES (2)

FLOAT FULCRUM PIN

MAIN BODY FUEL INLET NEEDLE VALVE AND SEAT

DASHPOT (POWERFLITE ONLY)

CHOKE HOUSING ¡

SCREW (3)

GASKET

THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER (POWERFLITE ONLY)

THERMOSTAT SHAFT AND LEVER

MAIN DISCHARGE JETS (TUBES) (2) COVER WASHER (3)

MAIN METERING JET (2) THROTTLE VALVES

CAM RETAINING WASHER

L·

GASKETS (2)

MAIN JET PLUGS (2) NUT

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW SPRING LEVER LOCKWASHER

CAM CONTACT LEVER

NUT SCREW (4)

CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING IDLE MIXTURE SCREW (2) THROTTLE BODY SCREW (4)

COTTER PIN THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER (STANDARD TRANSMISSION)

Fig. 3—Carburetor Assembly (Exploded View)

54x498 B

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

204

AUTOMATIC CHOKE THROTTLE ROD

57x102 Fig. Aâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Carburetor Mounted on Engine

number and secure repair kit for number indicated on cover. There are two models of the carburetor, depending on the type of transmission with which the car is equipped. The same basic design applies to these models regardless of adaptions. Refer to Specifications for detailed information. The carburetors will be classified by transmission application, as follows: 6 Cylinder Engine (1) Model WW 3 - 1 5 9 is used when the car is equipped with the Standard 3 Speed Transmission only. (2) Model WW 3 - 1 6 0 is used when the car is equipped with the PowerFlite Transmission. (This carburetor is equipped with a mechanical dashpot.) The service procedures for the disassembly, overhaul, cleaning and assembly of these carburetors are the same, with the exception of the dashpot. 1. REMOVAL OF CARBURETOR FROM CAR Should it become necessary to remove the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figure 4 then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the air cleaner and gasket. (2) Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. (3) Disconnect the hot air tube from the integral automatic choke housing. (4) Disconnect the vacuum spark advance control tube. (5) Disconnect the throttle linkage and throttle return spring from the carburetor throttle lever. (6) Remove the four nuts that hold the carburetor to the intake manifold, then lift carburetor assembly up and away from engine. The dashpot unit may be serviced without removing the carburetor from the engine.

SERVICING THE CARBURETOR Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance. When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job: (a) All parts should be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for damage or wear. (b) Use air pressure only, to clear the various orifices and channels. (c) Replace questionable parts with NEW ones. To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figures 1, 3, 4 (depending on model of carburetor) then proceed as follows: (1) Place the carburetor assembly on repair block Tool C-3225 (This Tool is used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.) (2) Remove the two dashpot bracket screws that hold the dashpot to the carburetor. Lift the dashpot away from the carburetor, (if so equipped). (3) Remove the cotterpin that holds the pump operating rod in the center hole of the throttle lever. Disengage rod from lever. (4) Remove the cotterpin that holds the fast idle rod in the choke shaft lever. Rotate fast idle rod far enough to disengage from the thermostat crank arm, as shown in Figure 5. (5) Remove the remaining air horn attaching screws, then lift the air horn, accelerator pump, vacuum power piston and air horn gasket straight up and away from main body. (6) Remove hairpin clip, then disengage the accelerator pump plunger rod from the rocker arm slide plunger and rod out of air horn. CHOKE SHAFT LEVER FAST IDLE ROD

THERMOSTAT CRANK ARM

COTTER

COTTER PIN PUMP OPERATING ROD-

Fig. 5â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removing or Installing Fast Idle Rod

FUEL -CARBURETOR - 6 CYLINDER PUMP PLUNGER, SPRING AND

IDLE PASSAGES END WRENCH

205

IDLE TUBE OPENING FOR DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM TUBE CONNECTION

WOOD BLOCK

POWER PISTON STAKED IN AIR HORN

PUMP SEAL WASHER

REPAIR BLOCK

54x416 A

Fig. 6—-Removing Vacuum Piston from Air Horn IDLE TUBE

Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Idle Tubes

(7) Remove the vacuum power piston from the air horn, using an open end wrench and wood block, as shown in Figure 6. (Exert sufficient pressure on end of wrench to force piston out of air horn. This assembly is staked and care should be used at removal.)

(9) Lift out choke valve, then withdraw the choke shaft and lever out of the air horn. (10) Lift the idle tubes out of the main body, as shown in Figure 8. (The idle tubes are interchangeable.) (11) Invert the carburetor main body, and drop out the accelerator pump inlet check ball.

(8) Remove the two screws that hold the choke valve to the choke shaft, as shown in Figure 7. T h e s e

screws are staked to prevent loosening, and extreme care is necessary to avoid breaking off in choke shaft. (This step only necessary if removing choke piston).

DO NOT BEND OR LOOSEN BOWL VENT TUBE

54x418 A

Do not attempt to remove the high-speed bleeders located in the main discharge strut section of the carburetor main body. (See Figure 9.) (12) Remove the screw and gasket from the accelerator pump discharge cluster, then lift off cluster and gasket, as shown in Figure 10. (13) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out HIGH SPEED BLEEDERS

CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE VALVE SHAFT SCREW VACUUM POWER PISTON

54x417 A

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Choke Valve

ACCELERATOR PUMP DISCHARGE CLUSTER

54x419 A Fig. 9—High-Speed Bleeders (Do not Remove from Main Body)

206

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

DISCHARGE CLUSTER

CLUSTER GASKET

54x420A

F¡g. 10—Removing or Installing Discharge Cluster 54x422

the accelerator pump discharge check ball from the center of the discharge strut section. (See Figure 24.) (14) Remove the fuel inlet needle, valve seat and gasket assembly. Discard the gasket. (15) Using a small screwdriver, pry out the float fulcrum pin retaining spring. (Cup the hand over the float chamber to prevent the spring from flying out.) lift out the float and fulcrum pin, as shown in Figure 11. (16) Remove the power by-pass jet and gasket, as shown in Figure 12. (17) Remove the four screws and lock washers that hold the throttle body to the main body. Lift off the throttle body. Discard the gasket. (18) With the main body in an inverted position, remove the main jet plugs, using Tool T-19099, 24968

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing Power By-Pass Jet

and 25184. Discard the plug gaskets. (19) Using Tool T-24924, remove the main metering jets, as shown in Figure 13. (20) Now, remove the main discharge jets (or tubes), using Tool T-24967. This Tool has a tapered right hand thread and should be screwed into jet. The threads that are formed in the jet during removal, will not damage the jet. (21) Remove the three screws and retaining washers that hold the thermostatic coil spring housing to the thottle body. Lift off the housing, thermostatic coil spring and gasket, as shown in Figure 14, to expose the automatic choke parts.

FLOAT

(22) Slide Tool T-25047 over the black nut on end FULCRUM PIN FUEL INLET NEEDLE VALVE SEAT A N D GASKET MAIN METERING JET

DISCHARGE CLUSTER

E <¢? GASKET

VALVE

54x421A

Fig. 11—Removing or Installing Float and Fulcrum Pin

54x425

Fig. 13—Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets

FUEL-CARBURETOR-6 CYLINDER -THERMOSTATIC COIL SPRING I SERVICED ONLY INTEGRAL CHOKE HOUSING J AS AN ASSEMBLY

INDICATOR MARK STRAIGHT D O W N

THERMOSTAT LEVER

GASKET CHOKE HOUSING RETAINING WASHERS AND SCREWS

Fig. 1

54x427

-Removing or Installing Choke Housing THERMOSTAT LEVER

207

of throttle shaft that holds the fast idle cam contact lever and coil positioning spring on shaft, as shown in Figure 15. WARNING: THE THREADS ON END OF THROTTLE SHAFT ARE LEFT HAND THREADS. (23) Remove nut and lockwasher, then slide cam contact lever off flats on shaft along with the choke positioning spring. (Note position of cam lever and spring. See Figure 15.) (24) Remove the nut and lockwasher that holds the thermostat crank lever to the thermostat lever shaft. Slide lever off flats on shaft, as shown in Figure 16. (25) Slide the thermostat lever, shaft and washer out of choke housing, as shown in Figure 17. Now, lift the fast idl% cam off shoulder in housing, as shown in Figure 18. (When installing cam, be sure the step side is toward throttle shaft.)

FAST IDLE CAM

CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING

CAM CONTACT LEVER CAUTION

:''`V

FAST IDLE CAM

THERMOSTAT LEVER AND SHAFT

LEFT HAND THREAD TOOL

SPACER WASHER

54x428

54x43ì

Fig. 15—Removing or Installing Cam Contact Lever Nut

Fig. 17—Removing or Installing Thermostat Lever

THERMOSTAT CRANK LEVER LEVER SHAFT

THERMOSTAT LEVER SPACER WASHER

CRANK LEVER RETAINING _ _ NUT 2 ¾ \ LOCKWASHER

CAM CONTACT LEVER CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING BLACK NUT (LEFT HAND THREAD) LOCKWASHER 54x429

Fig. 16—Removing or Installing Thermostat Crank Lever

FAST IDLE CAM

THROTTLE SHAFT (LEFT HAND THREAD)

54x430 Fig. 18—Removing or Installing Fast Idle Cam

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

208

(26) Unscrew and remove the idle mixture adjusting screws and springs, from the throttle body. The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units, namely, the air horn, main body and throttle body, and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection. It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts. To install new valves or throttle shaft, refer to Inspection and Reassembly Paragraph. 3. CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. However, there are other commercial solvents which may be used with satisfactory results. IMPORTANT If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the mixture too rich for proper performance. 4.

INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY

IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS 54x433

F¡g. 19—Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

THROTTLE VALVES NOTCH.

^—-NOTCH

NEW RETAINING SCREWS 54x434

Fig. 20—Removing or Installing Throttle Valves

port and the spark advance control ports to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly. (See Figure 19.) If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. However, if it has been determined that a new shaft is to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions: (2) Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced in the same bore from whence removed. (3) Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the throttle shaft, then slide the valves out of the throttle shaft. CAUTION: T h e s e s c r e w s a r e s t a k e d o n t h e opposite side a n d c a r e s h o u l d b e u s e d a t r e m o v a l s o a s not to b r e a k t h e s c r e w s i n t h e shaft. (4) Slide the throttle shaft out of the throttle body. (5) Install the new throttle shaft and lever in the throttle body, as shown in Figure 20. The fast idle lever should rest against the idle speed adjusting screw.

The idle speed adjusting screw must be backed out when seating the valves in the following operation. The "dash" stamped on the valves must be toward the idle port and visible from the top of the throttle body when valves are installed. The notch cut in the edge of the throttle valves should be centered over idle discharge port. (See Figure 19). (6) Slide the valves in position through the throttle shaft, then insert NEW screws, but do not tighten. Now hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 21. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.)

FUEL -CARBURETOR - 6 CYLINDER

209

choke housing are serviced as an assembly only. If the housing is cracked or broken, install a complete new assembly. The indicator mark cut on the rim of the housing is only correct for the one thermostatic coil originally installed. Be sure the number stamped on the outside face of housing is the same as the one removed. Do not attempt to separate the thermostatic coil spring from the heat retainer plate.

NOTCHES ON VALVES IN DIRECT LINE WITH IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS

54x435A

Fig. 21â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installing Throttle Valves

(7) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers. (8) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.)

Idle Mixture Screw Adjustment DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screw lightly against its seat, then back off one full turn for approximate adjustment. Assembling the Automatic Choke To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. It is possible, under extremely dusty conditions, that fine particles of dirt may be found deposited on the various choke parts. A h e a v y black, hard carbon deposit on the choke parts will indicate the possibility of a leak in the heat tube. Before assembling the automatic choke, be sure all parts are clean and free from any trace of grit or dirt. Clean all choke parts using a suitable solvent and then blow dry with compressed air. Examine all choke parts for wear or damage. Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new in order to insure proper choke operation. The thermostatic coil, heat retainer plate and the

Clean any dirt, dust or other foreign material that may be present, from the retainer plate and out of choke housing. Refer to Figure 3, then proceed to assemble the automatic choke as follows: (1) Slide the fast idle cam over machined hub in choke housing, with the fast idle steps facing down and toward the throttle shaft (with the weight portion resting against stop). (See Figure 18.) Allow cam weight to settle. (2) Slide the cam retaining washer over thermostat lever shaft with the protruding shoulder resting against thermostat lever. Now, slide shaft and lever into choke housing. (See Figure 17.) Be sure the tang that contacts choke positioning spring, rests between fast idle steps and weight. (3) Slide the thermostat crank lever over lever shaft protruding at rear of choke housing. Be sure crank lever is over flats on shaft. (See Figure 16.) Install lockwasher and nut. Tighten securely. (4) Slide the choke positioning spring over end of throttle shaft with the coiled portion facing inward and leaning against thermostat lever shaft housing. (See Figure 15.) Now, slide cam contact lever over end of throttle shaft, with the cam contact lever tang resting against fast idle cam. Install lockwasher and black nut. Tighten securely. REMEMBER, THIS IS A LEFT H A N D THREAD. D o n o t l u b r i c a t e a n y of t h e c h o k e o p e r a t i n g parts. (5) Place a new gasket over shoulder on choke coil housing. Place coil housing and gasket against choke housing with the indicator mark straight down. (See Figure 14.) Slowly turn housing assembly counterclockwise until indicator mark is aligned with the center index mark on top of choke housing. Install retaining washers (teeth toward serrated portion of housing) and screws. Tighten securely. To s e c u r e t h e d e s i r e d

performance from the choke during starting and warm-up, the indicator mark on the choke coil housing must always line up with the center index mark on the choke housing. Reassembling the Carburetor Main Body (1) Place the assembled throttle body on the inverted main body, using a new gasket. Install screws and lockwashers, then tighten securely.

210

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL DIAGONAL CUT TOWARD OPPOSITE SIDE OF SMALL VENTURI

MAIN DISCHARGE JET (OR TUBE)

54x437

Fig. 22—Installing Main Discharge Jets (or Tubes) 54x440

(2) Place the main discharge jets (or tubes) firmly on Tool T-24967, as shown in Figure 22. Now, slide into position in the main body. Be sure the opening in the end of tube (diagonal cut end) is facing the opposite side of the small venturi. T h e s e t w o jets must b e s e a t e d firmly in t h e m a i n b o d y . (3) Insert the main metering jets in the body over the discharge jets (or tubes) just installed. Tighten securely, using Tool T-24924. (See Figure 13.) (4) Slide new copper gaskets in the main jet plug openings, then insert the plugs and tighten securely. (5) Invert the carburetor and place on repair block C-3225, then install the power by-pass jet and new gasket. (6) Install the accelerator pump inlet check ball ( ‰ inch diameter) in the check ball seat at the bottom of the pump cylinder, as shown in Figure 23. (7) Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball (¼ inch diameter) in the orifice in the center passage of the discharge strut section of the main body, as shown in Figure 24.

Fig. 24—Installing Discharge Check Ball

ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER

BRASS ROD

N O FUEL TO BE EMITTED HERE (PUMP DISCHARGE `¿ PASSAGE) | N O FUEL TO BE EMITTED HERE (PUMP INTAKE PASSAGE)

54x441 54x439 Ftg. 23—Installing Accelerator Pump Check Ball

Fig. 25—Testing Accelerator Pump Intake and Discharge Check Balls

FUEL -CARBURETOR - 6 (4) Reinstall check ball and test again. If still leaking, place a piece of drill rod down on ball and rap sharply with a hammer. Remove old check ball and install new ball. Then retest. (This operation forms a new ball seat in the carburetor casting.) (5`> Install the discharge cluster gasket, cluster and screw. Tighten securely. (See Figure 10.) Again depress the accelerator pump plunger. A clear straight stream should emit from each cluster jet. If the streams are not identical (if either one is diverted or restricted), a new discharge cluster should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove the accelerator pump plunger. (6) Check the float for leaks or damage. If satisfactory for further service, install in position in the carburetor bowl. (7) Assemble the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket, then insert in position in the main body. Tighten securely. (If the needle is ridged or badly worn, install a new needle valve and seat assembly.) (8) Install the float fulcrum pin retaining spring in position and force under lip of boss to keep fulcrum pin in position.

Checking Float Height (1) Using a "T" scale or Tool T-25569, check the float setting, as shown in Figure 26. The top of float must be ¾<; inch from the top of main body (gasket removed) with the gauge at the center of float and the float lip held firmly against the fuel inlet needle. Do not b e n d float lip by forcing float. Use Tool T - 2 4 7 3 3 , a s s h o w n in F i g u r e 2 7 . (2) To change the float setting, bend the float lip toward the needle to lower, and away from needle to raise the float.

Assembling the Main Body (1) Install the idle tubes in the main body. (See FigJFLOAT LIP HELD AGAINST î FUEL INLET NEEDLE

211

CYLINDER

54x453A

Fig. 27—Bending Float Lip, Using Bending Tool

ure 8.) T h e s e tubes a r e i n t e r c h a n g e a b l e . (2) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Check the pump leather. If the leather is hard, cracked or worn, install a new accelerator pump assembly. Be sure and flex the leather several times before installing plunger rod through the air horn. (3) Install the vacuum power piston and plunger in the air horn, as shown in Figure 28. Lock in position by prick punching on the retaining rim. Compress the piston plunger to be sure no binding exists. If the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder smooth operation, install a new piston assembly. (4) Slide the choke shaft into air horn with choke lever pointing toward pump end of air horn. Slide the choke valve down into slot in shaft. Hold the choke valve closed, then position choke piston bracket and install new screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Holding the valve in the closed position tap gently with a screwPLUNGER A N D SPRING

TOOL

STAKE IN POSITION AFTER INSTALLATION

AIR HORN

54x444

Fig. 26—Checking Float Setting

54x442 f¡g. 28—Installing Vacuum Power Piston

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

212 CHOKE VALVE (CLOSED)

LIBRATED SPRING UPPER RIGHT HAND SCREW

Choke Positioning Spring Adjustment Unloader Adjustment (wide open kick) Accelerator Pump Travel Adjustment Dash Pot Adjustment (if so equipped)

Fast Idle Adjustment FAST IDLE CAM

CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG

THROTTLE VALVE OPENED BY ADJUSTING SCREW 5 ¼ TURNS 6 CYLINDER

54x446 A

F¡g. 29—Fast Idle Adjustment

driver to center and locate the valve. Tighten screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers. (See Figure 7.) (5) Slide a new air horn gasket over accelerator pump plunger, and down against air horn. Now, lower air horn straight down on main body, with the accelerator pump plunger sliding into its well. (Be sure the leather on the pump does not curl or fold back). Install air horn retaining screws and lockwashers, then tighten securely. (Do not install the dash pot at this time as interference will be encountered as adjustments are made.) Work the accelerator pump plunger several times, to be sure it operates freely.

(1) To make the fast idle adjustment, remove thermostatic coil housing, then insert the thermostat cover screw through the loop of the coil spring Tool T-25906. Install screw into upper right hand mounting hole in the housing, as shown in Figure 29. (2) Hook the opposite end of spring to the long tang of the thermostat lever, as shown in Figure 29. (This spring is calibrated for use in making the choke positioning spring setting, refer to specifications.) (3) Remove the spring from the fast idle adjusting screw, then reinstall screw without the spring. With the throttle valves in fully "CLOSED" position, turn the fast idle screw IN so it just contacts the throttle lever. (4) Now, turn adjusting screw IN 5¼ turns. (This will open the throttle valves a predetermined amount.) (5) With the choke valve closed and the throttle lever held against the fast idle screw, insert a number 48 drill between the tang on the contact lever and the first step of the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 30. (6) To adjust, slide Tool T-25863 over tang, on cam contact lever as shown in Figure 31. Bend tang toward or away from fast idle cam until correct clearance has been obtained. After adjusting, make sure the tang is parallel to the throttle shaft. Remove fast idle speed adjusting screw and reinstall with spring.

Fast Idle Cam Adjustment

5. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS It is very important that the following adjustments be made on a reconditioned carburetor and in the sequence listed namely. Fast Idle Adjustment Fast Idle Cam Adjustment

(1) To position the fast idle cam, open the throttle valves sufficiently to clear the fast idle cam. Close the choke valve tightly by applying pressure on the choke valve. Now, force the throttle valves closed against the tension of the cam positioning spring, as shown in Figure 32.

CHOKE CLOSED FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG

TOOL

CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG ADJUSTING SCREW SPRING

. 154x454A

Fig. 30—Checking Fast Idle with No. 48 Drill

*54x455A Fig. 31—Bending Cam Contact Lever Tang

FUEL-CARBURETOR-6 CYLINDER

CHOKE VALVE

2T3

(CLOSED)

THERMOSTAT LEVER T A N G

FAST IDLE R O D (BEND A S REQUIRED AT THIS

POINT)

FAST IDLE C A M

CALIBRATED

SPRING

THERMOSTAT CRANK

LEVER

CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING

F¡g. 32—Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment 54x457 A

Fig. 35—Bending Thermostat Lever Tang

(2) In this position, the tang on the cam contact lever should just clear the high step of the fast idle cam. (See Figure 32.) The clearance should not exceed .020 inch. (3) Adjust if necessary, by bending the fast idle rod (at angle) until the correct clearance has been obtained. Use Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure 33.

54x45ÓA

F¡g. 33—Bending Fast Idle Rod

—

-•-FOR DRILL SIZE REFER TO SPECIFICATIONS

THERMOSTAT LEVER TANG (BEND AS REQUIRED)

WEIGHT

CHOKE POSITIONING SPRING

CAM CONTACT LEVER TANG CALIBRATED SPRING 54x448 A

. 34—Choke Positioning Spring Adjustment

Choke Positioning Spring Adjustment (1) To make the choke positioning spring adjustment, slide weight, Tool T-25864 over the choke lever as shown in Figure 34. Hold the carburetor in a vertical position. Close the throttle valves, making certain the cam contact lever tang is resting on the high step of the fast idle cam. (It may be necessary to rotate the fast idle cam to obtain this adjustment.) Now, lightly close the throttle valves. The choke valve should open just enough to insert a number 31 or 37 drill (depending upon model of carburetor being worked on), between choke valve and wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 34. (Refer to Specification Page.) (2) To adjust, bend the tang of the thermostat lever that contacts the choke positioning spring, using long nose pliers, as shown in Figure 35. A v e r y slight movement to the right or left of this tang will result in proper clearance. After adjustment has been made, remove weight from choke lever. Uníoader Adjustment (wide open kick) (1) To make the uníoader adjustment, lightly hold the choke valve closed, then open the throttle valves to wide open position. The choke valve should open sufficiently to allow a number 19 drill to be inserted between the choke valve and wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 36.

214

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

N O . 19 DRILL

THERMOSTAT LEVER

CALIBRATED SPRING THROTTLE LEVER (CLOSED POSITION) ^ - C A M CONTACT LEVER TANG \ (BEND AS REQUIRED)

ROD IN CENTER HOLE OF LEVER

THROTTLE VALVES (WIDE OPEN)

56x557 A

Fig. 36—Unloader Adjustment

Fig. 38—Accelerator Pump Adjustment

(2) To adjust, bend the tang of the cam contact lever using long nose pliers, a s shown in Figure 37.

a c c e l e r a t o r p u m p rod in t h e c e n t e r h o l e of t h e throttle l e v e r .

(3) Remove the calibrated spring (Tool T-25906) and screw, then reinstall thermostat coil housing and gasket, (be sure and align index marks).

(1) To check the accelerator pump travel, hold the carburetor in a vertical position, then operate the accelerator pump to permit the check ball at the bottom of well to take its normal position on seat.

(4) Hold choke open and then open and close the throttle valves. Failure-to obtain full throttle operation indicates improper assembly or adjustment of the choke mechanism. (5) With the throttle valves held in open position, open the choke valve slowly to wide open position. There should be no bind throughout the entire travel of choke mechanism. Accelerator Pump Adjustment

The following adjustment is made with the

(2) With the choke valve held open, measure the travel of the accelerator pump as the throttle valves are moved from open to fully closed position. The accelerator pump travel should measure from ¾ 6 to ‰ inches, as shown in Figure 38. (3) To adjust, remove the accelerator pump rod from the center hole in the throttle lever and bend (at angle), using Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure 39. Bend either up or down until correct travel has been obtained. Reinstall rod.

LEVER C A M

L O N G NOSE PLIERS

54x458A Fig. 37—Bending Cam Contact Lever Tang

54x459A Fig. 39—Bending Accelerator Pump Rod

215

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8-WCFB

tween the end of dashpot plunger "A" and ear "E" on throttle lever when the plunger is pushed to the end of its travel, as shown in Figure 40. (2) To adjust, loosen Locknut "C," and turn dashpot in bracket to obtain correct clearance.

6. DASHPOT

INSTALLATION OF CARBURETOR ON ENGINE

(1) Place a new carburetor to manifold gasket of the proper size on the intake manifold, then install the carburetor. (Refer to Figure 3).

THROTTLE LEVER THROTTLE VALVES (Closed)

(2) Before tightening the attaching nuts, start the fuel line and vacuum spark. This will prevent a possibility of stripping the threads on these connections. (3) Complete tightening of the manifold stud nuts, fuel and spark control. (4) Attach the heat tube to the integral choke housing and tighten securely.

5 4 X 4 51

Fig. 40—Dashpot Adjustment

Dash Pot Adjustment (¡f so equipped) (1) Install dashpot in position on air horn (if removed). With the idle speed adjusting screw set for normal idle speed, there should be ‰ to % 2 inches clearance be-

(5) Attach the throttle control rod and return spring. (6) Install the air cleaner and gasket, locating the air cleaner to clear the choke housing. Then adjust the carburetor.

FOUR BARREL WCFB CARBURETOR CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N Accelerator Pump Adjustment Air Horn Assembly Bowl Vent Cap Adjustment Choke Rod Adjustment Choke Unloader Adjustment Disassembling the Carburetor Fast Idle Adjustment General Information Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustments Inspection and Reassembly Installation of Carburetor on Engine Metering Rod Adjustment Servicing the Carburetor Velocity Valve Adjustment Velocity Valve Lockout Adjustment

SERVICE

Par.

Page

5 4 12 7 9 2 10 — 14 3 13 6 1 8 11

230 228 232 230 231 219 231 215 233 226 232 230 217 231 232

INFORMATION

PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION Two different WCFB Series 4-barrel carburetors are used on the new Dodge cars. A WCFB 2532S carburetor is used on the Red Ram single rocker shaft engine, while a WCFB 2622S carburetor is used on the D500

double rocker shaft engine. The service procedures covering these carburetors are the same. But due to metering and calibration (internal), the carburetors are not interchangeable. The WCFB Series carburetor is basically two (2) dual

216

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

CHOKE VALVf BOWL VINT CAP

AIR HORN MAIN BODY CHOKE HOUSING

THROTTLE LEVER IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREW

SECONDARY THROTTLE RETURN SPRING THROTTLE BODY SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT

REPAIR STAND

SECONDARY THROTTLE OPERATING ROD PRIMARY THROTTLE SHAHCROSSOVER CHOKE CONTROL UNIT

57x282 Fig. 1—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB 2532S or 2622S)

CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD

IDENTIFICATION TAG DO NOT LOSE OR REMOVE

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

VELOCITY VALVE LOCKOUT

VELOCITY VALVE COUNTERWEIGHT

THROTTLE LEVER FAST IDLE CAM 57x283

FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

Fig. 2—Carburetor Assembly (WCFB 2532S or 2622S)

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8-WCFB

217

carburetors contained in one assembly. The section containing the metering rods# accelerating pump and choke is termed the primary side of the carburetor, the other section, the secondary side. It has five (5) conventional systems, as have been used in previous carburetors. They are: 2 — Float System 2 — Low Speed System 2 — High Speed System 1 — Pump System 1 — Automatic Choke System

down through the Venturis of the carburetor increases and tends to overcome the counterweight attached to the velocity shaft, permitting the offset velocity valves to position themselves according to engine requirements. When the engine is cold and the choke is in closed position, a mechanical latch prevents the velocity valves from opening, so that only the primary side of the carburetor is used during the warm-up period. After the choke is opened fully, the latch is released, and allows operation of the velocity valves according to engine requirements.

Primary Side

AUTOMATIC CHOKE The automatic choke used on the WCFB series carburetor is of the cross-over type. The choke operates through a combination of linkage that connects the choke thermostatic coil spring to the offset choke valve, and a vacuum choke piston. The thermostatic coil spring is locate¢. in a well, directly over the exhaust cross-over passage in the intake manifold. The vacuum choke piston is conected to the choke valve through a link and pin. The heat generated in the well of the intake manifold by the exhaust cross-over passage, acts on the thermostatic coil spring so that as the engine warms up, the choke valve moves toward the open position. The position of the choke valve is further controlled by the action of manifold vacuum on the choke piston. The onset choke valve tends to position itself according to engine speed and load conditions, governed by the air flowing into the carburetor. The combination of these features provides the required choke mixture calibration for efficient operation. To prevent choking a warm or hot engine, the heat retained by the intake manifold prevents the thermostatic coil spring from cooling off too quickly, thereby closing the choke valve while the engine is still hot. The choke is connected to the fast idle cam which provides the necessary increased idle speed during the warm up period.

The position oí the metering rods in the metering rod jets control the amount oí fuel flowing in the high speed system of the primary side of the carburetor. The position of the metering rods is controlled mechanically by movement of the throttle and by manifold vacuum applied to the vacuum piston on the vacuumeter link.

Secondary Side Fuel for the high-speed system of the secondary side is metered at the main metering jets (no metering rods used). Throttle valves in the secondary side remain closed until the primary throttle valves have been opened a pre-determined amount. They reach the wide open throttle position at the same time the primary throttle does. This is accomplished by linkage between the throttle levers. The WCFB Series carburetors are equipped with a pair of velocity valves, which control the secondary valve operation. The throttle valves of the secondary half of the carburetor are mechanically connected to the primary valves and open with the primary after an approximate 60° lag; and continue to open until both primary and secondary throttle valves reach the wide open position simultaneously. As engine speed increases, the forces exerted by the velocity of intake air

SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N PROCEDURES trouble is not located elsewhere before disassembling SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. However, proper cleaning and installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its originally designed performance. The carburetor is a very dependable unit and will continue functioning properly for long periods without attention. Often, the carburetor is blamed for a great variety of trouble, which is classed as "POOR CAR PERFORMANCE." Therefore, be definitely sure that the

the carburetor. When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job: (1) The carburetor must be disassembled. (2) All parts should be cleaned in a suitable solvent then inspected for damage or wear. (3) Use air pressure only, to clean the various orifices or channels. (4) Replace questionable parts with NEW ONES. When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is at times difficult to be sure they are satisfactory for further service. It is therfore recommended that in such case, NEW parts be installed.

218

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

10 11

57 56 55

54x499A

48 46

Fig. 3â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Carburetor Assembly WCFB 2532S or 2622S (Exploded View)

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8-WCFB

219

Carburetor Assembly WCFB 2532S or 2622S (Exploded View) 1 — Screw, Dust Cover 2 — Cover, Dust 3 — Gasket, Dust Cover 4 — Screw, Choke Valve 5 - Valve, Choke 6 — Clip, Hairpin 7 — Arm, Accelerator Pump 8 — Link, Pump Connector 9 — Spring, Metering Rod 10 —Link, Vacuumeter Piston 11 — Metering Rod 12 —Screw, Spring Bracket 13 —Screw, Air Horn Retaining 14 — Bracket, Spring 1 5 - A i r Horn 16 —Screw, Choke Shaft Lever 17 - L e v e r , Choke Shaft 18 —Nut, Choke Shaft Lever Screw 19 — Gasket, Air Horn 20 — Shaft, Accelerator Pump 21 — Piston, Vacuumeter 22 — Spring, Vacuumeter Piston 23 — Needle Valve and Seat Assembly, Fuel Inlet 24 - Valve, Fuel Inlet Needle 25 — Pin, Float Fulcrum 26 — Float, Secondary 27 — Float, Primary 28 — Screw, Pump Jet Housing 29 — Housing, Pump Jet 30 — Gasket, Pump Jet Housing 31 —Jets, Secondary Main

32 — Jets, Secondary Idle 33 — Retainer, Ball Check 34 — Main Body, Carburetor 35 — Gasket, Main Body 36 — Valves, Velocity 37 — Valves, Secondary Throttle 38 — Valves, Primary Throttle 39 — Rod, Choke Connector 40 — Clip, Hairpin 41 — Shaft, Velocity Valve 42 — Screw, Fast Idle Cam 43 — Clip, Hairpin 44 — Rod, Throttle Connector 45 — Shaft and Lever, Throttle 46 — Clip, Throttle Connector Rod 47 — Cam, Fast Idle 48 — Spring, Fast Idle Cam 49 — Lever, Cam Trip 50 — Screw, Idle Speed 51 — Spring, Adjusting Screw 52 — Screw, Throttle Body 53 — Throttle Body 54 —Spring, Idle Mixture Needle 55 — Needle, Idle Mixture 56 — Spring, Idle Mixture Needle 57 — Arm, Throttle Shaft 58 — Dog, Throttle Shaft 59 — Washer, Throttle Shaft Spacer 60 — Screw, Dog and Arm Retainer 61 — Clip, Hairpin 62 — Rod, Throttle Operating

DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR

To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to Figures 1, 2, and 3 then proceed as follows: Place the carburetor assembly on repair block Tool C-4300 (This Tool is used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working). (1) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the choke connector rod to the fast idle cam trip lever. Disengage rod from lever, then swing rod at a 90° arc until the rod can CHOKE CONNECTOR

CHOKE SHAFT LEVER

63 — Spring, Secondary Throttle Lever 64 — Shaft, Secondary Throttle 65 — Screw, Throttle Valve Retaining 66 — Plug, Accelerator Pump Passage 67 — Jets, Primary Main 68 — Jets, Primary Idle 69 — Needle, Pump Discharge 70 — Pin, Float Fulcrum 71 — Pump, Accelerator 72 - Valve, Fuel Inlet Needle 7 3 - S e a t , Fuel Inlet Needle Valve 74 — Spring, Accelerator Pump 75 — Retainer, Accelerator Pump Spring 76 — Screw, Air Horn 77 — Gasket, Choke Housing 78 — Housing, Choke 79 — Screw, Choke Housing 80 — Screw, Choke Housing 81 - S h a f t , Choke 82 — Piston, Choke 83 — Pin, Choke Piston 84 — Plate, Choke 85 — Screw, Retaining Plate 86 — Lever, Choke Shaft 87 — Rod, Metering 88 — Screen, Fuel Inlet 89 — Gasket, Fuel Inlet Plug 90 — Plug, Fuel Inlet Passage 91 —Arm, Metering Rod 92 — Arm, Bowl Vent Cap

be disengaged from the choke operating lever, as shown in Figure 4. (2) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the throttle connector rod to the accelerator pump shaft lever. Now, remove the clip that holds the throttle connector rod to the primary throttle shaft lever. Disengage rod and remove from carburetor, as shown in Figure 5. (3) Remove the two screws that hold the metering rod dust cover to the air horn. Lift dust cap cover and gasket up and away from carburetor, as shown in Figure 6. THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

METERING ROD DUST COVER

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD

REPAIR STAND

CHOKE CONNECTOR ROD CLIP ACCELERATOR PUMP SHAFT LEVER

57x284

Fig. 4 — Removing or Installing Choke Connector Rod

HAIRPIN CLIPS

57x285

Fig. 5 —Removing or Installing Throttle Connector Rod

220

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL DUST COVER ^

METERING RODS

VACUUMETER PISTON LINK NEEDLE VALVE SEAT

THROTTLE CONNECTOR ROD CLIP HAIRPIN CLIPS

57x286

Fig. 6 — Removing or Installing Metering Rod Dust Cap METERING ROD

METERING ROD ^ ^ _ ^ ^ ^ ^

57x287

Fig. 7 — Removing or Installing Metering Rods

ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER FULCRUM PIN PRIMARY FLOAT

GASKET

Fig. 8— Removing or Installing Primary Floats

NEEDLE VALVE SEAT

57x289

Fig. 9 — Removing or Installing Vacuumeter Piston (4) Unhook the metering rods from the vacuumeter piston link and remove, as shown in Figure 7. Of the sixteen bowl cover attaching screws and lockwashers, six of these are found around the inside air horn, nine around the flange of the bowl cover and one within the metering rod pump countershaft enclosure. (5) Remove the sixteen screws and lockwashers that hold the air horn to the main body, then disconnect the secondary throttle return spring. Now, using finger pressure only, lift air horn assembly up and away from main body. Removing the air horn assembly, be sure and lift air horn straight up and away from main body in order not to bend or damage the floats, accelerator pump plunger or vacuumeter piston. Air Horn Disassembly Lay the air horn in an inverted position on the bench and proceed to disassemble as follows: (6) With a suitable tool, push out the primary float fulcrum pin, then lift primary float up and away from air horn, as shown in Figure 8. It is a b s o l u t e l y n e c e s s a r y to k e e p parts from the p r i m a r y side of t h e carburetor s e p a r a t e d from those of t h e s e c o n d a r y side. (7) Push out the secondary float fulcrum pin, lift the secondary float up and away from the carburetor air horn. (8) Rotate the vacuumeter piston 90° to either side and remove, as shown in Figure 9. (9) Remove the gasket from the bottom of the air horn and discard. (10) Remove the two needle valves from their respective seats, then remove the primary and secondary seats and gaskets, as shown in Figure 10. Be sure each needle valve is returned to its original seat if it is to be used again at assembly.

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8¯WCFB PRIMARY NEEDLE VALVE SEAT AND GASKET

METERING ROD ARM

221 ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM

SCREEN

SECONDARY NEEDLE VALVE SEAT AND GASKET 57x290

Fig. 10 —Removing or Installing Needle Valve, Seat and Gasket

VENT CAP ARM AND SCREW

57x293

Fig. 13 —Removing or Installing Metering Rod Arm

PUMP ARM

CONNECTOR LINK IN CENTER HOLE

BOWL VENT CAP ARM PLUNGER SHAFT HAIRPIN CLIP

PRIMARY PLUG

SECONDARY FILTER SCREEN PLUG

GASKET SCREEN

57x292

Fig. 12 —Removing or Installing Filter Screen and Plug

VACUUMETER PISTON LINK

METERING ROD ARM SCREW AND LOCKWASHER

Fig. 11— Removing or Installing Pump Connector Link

ACCELERATOR PUMP ARM

57x294

Fig. 14 —Removing or Installing Accelerator Pump Arm

(11) Invert the carburetor air horn, then remove the hairpin clip from the pump connector link. Disengage pump connector link from the accelerator pump arm, as shown in Figure 11. Slide the accelerator pump plunger spring and spring guide washer out from under air horn. (12) Remove the fuel inlet plug, gasket and screen from the air horn, as shown in Figure 12. (13) Loosen the metering rod arm screw, then, disengage the vacuumeter piston link from the metering rod arm and withdraw vacuumeter link directly out of metering rod chamber. (14) Remove the screw that attaches the bowl vent arm to the accelerator pump shaft. Remove arm. Loosen the screws that hold the metering rod arm and the accelerator pump arm to the accelerator pump shaft. Slowly withdraw shaft and lift out the metering rod and accelerator pump arms, as shown in Figures 13 and 14.

222

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE SHAFT LEVER AND LINK CHOKE PISTON

CHOKE PISTON CHOKE SHAFT PLATE SCREWS AND LOCKWASHERS CHOKE SHAFT LEVER

CHOKE PISTON PIN

57x295

Fig. 15 — Removing or Installing Choke Valve Retaining Screw

(15) Loosen the choke shaft lever clamp screw and slide lever off end of choke shaft. (16) Remove the three screws that hold the choke dust plate to the choke piston housing. Slide plate off end of choke shaft. (17) Remove the two choke valve retaining screws that hold the choke valve to the choke shaft, as shown in Figure 15. Lift out the choke valve. These screws are staked to prevent loosening, and extreme care is necessary to avoid breaking in choke shaft. (18) Rotate the choke shaft enough to wtihdraw choke piston out of its cylinder, as shown in Figure 16. As the choke clears cylinder, withdraw shaft and piston out of air horn. (19) Using a suitable tool, withdraw the choke piston pin, as shown in Figure 17. Now separate choke piston from link. (20) Remove the three screws that hold the choke piston housing to the air horn. Work choke housing directly out and away from air horn. Discard gasket. CHOKE PISTON

LEVER

57x296

Fig. 16— Removing or Installing Choke Piston and Shaft

53x932 Fig. 17— Removing or Installing Choke Piston Pin

SPRING PUMP DISCHARGE CLUSTER

54x479

Fig. 18 — Removing or Installing Vacuumeter Piston Spring

Main Body Disassembly (21) Lift the vacuumeter piston spring out of the vacuumeter piston cylinder in the main body, as shown in Figure 18. (22) Remove the screw from the accelerator pump discharge cluster, then lift off cluster and gasket, as shown in Figure 19. (23) Invert the carburetor main body and drop out the accelerator pump discharge check needle. (24) (Using Tool T-109-58), remove the main metering jets (primary side), as shown in Figure 20. T h e primary and secondary main metering jets are not interchangeable. It is very important at

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8-WCFB

223

DISCHARGE CLUSTER GASKET

MAIN METERING JETS

54x480 Fig. 19 —Removing or Installing Discharge Cluster and Gasket

reassembly, that these jets be installed in their respective positions in the carburetor main body. (25) Again, using Tool T-109-58, remove the main metering jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 21. (26) Using a wide blade screwdriver, remove the two fuel sight plugs from the carburetor main body. This need be done, only if screwdriver slots are damaged or a leak is indicated. (27) Using Tool T-109-58, remove the idle jets (primary side), as shown in Figure 22.

L·

•*?

54x517

Fig. 21 —Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets (Secondary Side)

IDLE JETS (PRIMARY SIDE)

¾r

IDLE JETS (SECONDARY)

54x518

Fig. 22 — Removing or Installing Idle Jets (Primary Side)

\MAIN JETS (PRIMARY)

MAIN JETS (SECONDARY)

54x481

Fig. 20 —Removing or Installing Main Metering Jets (Primary Side)

(28) Remove the idle jets (secondary side), as shown in Figure 23. The idle jets on the primary and secondary side of the carburetor are interchangeable. (29) Invert the carburetor on the bench, then remove the four throttle body to main body attaching screws. Then lift throttle body up and away from main body. Discard gasket. Throttle Body Disassembly (30) Remove the hairpin clip that holds the throttle operating rod to the primary operating lever. Slide rod out of lever, then disengage from the secondary throttle shaft lever, as shown in Figure 24. (31) Remove the screw that holds the throttle shaft washer, primary throttle shaft dog and primary operat-

224

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

; PRIMARY OPERATING LEVER THROTTLE SHAFT DOG

IDLE JETS (SECONDARY SIDE)

HAIRPIN CLIP WASHER SCREW THROTTLE

*</¿* ií

OPERATING ROD

` '

54x522

Fig. 25 —Removing Throttle Shaft Dog 54x519

F¡g. 23 — Removing or Installing Idle Jets (Secondary Side) SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT LEVER

J¢·x..._. ~

CAM TRIP LEVER

PRIMARY OPERATING . LEVER

FAST IDLE CAM FAST IDLE CAM SCREW

Fig. 26— Removing or Installing Fast Idle Cam Assembly

THROTTLE OPERATING ROD HAIRPIN CLIP -

54x523

54x521

Fig. 24 —Removing or Installing Throttle Operating Rod

IDLE DISCHARGE PORTS f

ing lever to the primary throttle shaft. Slide washer, dog and lever off end of throttle shaft, as shown in Figure 25. (32) Remove the screw that attaches the fast idle cam assembly to the throttle body boss, and lift off the fast idle cam assembly, cam trip lever and screw, as shown in Figure 26. When removing cam and trip lever, be sure and note the position of the fast idle cam spring and tangs on trip lever.

SPARK ADVANCE PORT<k¾r'5

It is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shafts or valves, unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts.

During manufacture, the location of the idle transfer port and the spark advance control port to the valves is carefully established for one particular assembly (see Figure 27).

> VELOCITY VALVES *

••#.,-'

'&;¿iLv

•\ 54x524

Fig. 27-Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8-WCFB If new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would adversely affect normal carburetor operation between the speeds of 15 and 30 miles per hour. However, if it has been determined the new shaft is to be installed adhere closely to the following instructions: (33) Remove the four screws that hold the primary throttle valves to the throttle shaft. Lift out valves, then withdraw primary throttle shaft using a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 28. These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used in removal so as not to break the screws in the shaft. It is suggested, that the throttle valves be marked in order that each may be returned to the same bore from which it was removed. The primary and secondary throttle valves are not interchangeable and should be kept separate in order that they may be replaced in their original bores. Refer to Figure 29. (34) Remove the four screws that hold the velocity valves to the velocity valve shaft. Lift out the velocity valves, then withdraw the velocity valve shaft with a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 30. (35) Remove the four screws that attach the secondary throttle valves to the throttle shaft. Lift out valves, then withdraw secondary throttle shaft with a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 31. (36) Remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and the springs from the throttle body. The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units namely the air horn, main body and throttle body, and the component parts disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspecting.

225 SECONDARY VALVE (THICK)

PRIMARY VALVE" (THIN)

5 3 x O 4 o

Fig. 29 —Throttle Valve Identification

Cleaning Carburetor Parts The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. However, there are other commercial solvents which may be used with satisfactory results. IMPORTANT If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as rinse, it should be "HOT." After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It is further advisable to rinse all parts in clean kerosene or gasoline to be certain no trace of moisture remains. Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged. VELOCITY VALVE SHAFT

b.u> VELOCITY / VALVES PRIMARY •_^~~^rr/¡'"'THROTTLE VALVES

^ < - ATTACHING SCREWS %*""" 54x525

Fig. 28 —Removing or Installing Primary Throttle Shaft

ATTACHING SCREWS *

Fig. 30— Removing or Installing Velocity Valve Shaft

54x526

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

226

SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT

L· SECONDARY — ^ THROTTLE VALVES

ATTACHING SCREWS \

54x527 F¡g. 3 1 — Removing or Installing Secondary Throttle Shaft

making the mixture too rich for proper performance. Incorporated in the air horn is the automatic choke piston. To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. It is posisble, under an extremely dusty condition, fine particles of dirt may be found deposited on the various choke parts. Examine all choke parts for wear or damage. Worn or damaged parts must be replaced with new, to insure proper operation of choke. Other than an occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no servicing. However, it is very important that the choke control unit works freely at the thennostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft.

Move the choke rod up and down to check the free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. If the unit binds, a new unit should be installed. The Cross-over

Choke control unit is serviced only as a complete unit. Do not attempt to repair (See Figure 32). 3. INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY Throttle Body (1) Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body. (2) Install the new primary throttle shaft and lever (if needed) in the throttle body, as shown in Figure 28. T h e i d l e s p e e d adjusting s c r e w must b e b a c k e d out w h e n s e a t i n g v a l v e s in t h e f o l l o w i n g o p eration. (3) Slide the valves in position in the throttle shaft then insert the new screws but do not tighten. Now hold the valves in place with the fingers. (Fingers pressing on the high side of valves.) (4) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers. (5) Slide the secondary throttle shaft in the throttle body with tang on the lever pointing toward the fast idle cam boss. (See Figure 31.) (6) Center the secondary throttle shaft with the bores, then install the secondary throttle valves. (7) Hold the valves in this position, and insert "NEW" screws (large heads), but do not tighten. Now, hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 33. (Fingers pressing on the high side of the valves.) SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVES

CLIP ROD

CALIBRATION MARKS

DUST COVER THERMOSTATIQ COIL SPRING || / / HOUSING \¿!

INDEX MARK

57x297

Fig. 32—Automatic Choke Control

F¡g. 33— Installing Secondary Throttle Valves

FUEL -CARBURETOR - V8¯WCFB

227 PRIMARY OPERATING LEVER LONG EAR OF THROTTLE SHAFT DOG

VELOCITY VALVES COUNTERWEIGHT VELOCITY VALVE /LOCKOUT ARM

^WIDER P O R T I O N ^

•`

V. ¾:`'

154x484

Fig. 34-Installing Velocity Valves

(8) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten screw securely, as shown in Figure 33. Stake screws by squeezing with pliers. (9) Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. The tapered portion must be straight and smooth. If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. The adjustment should be made with the fingers. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws lightly against their seats, then back off one full turn for approximate adjustment. (10) Slide the fast idle cam retaining screw through fast idle cam (with threaded shank of screw on spring side, see Figure 26). Now, slide the fast idle cam trip lever over shoulder on screw, guiding the tang between fast idle spring and cam. Insert pivot screw into boss and tighten securely. (Be sure tang on trip lever slides between the boss and lockout arm. See that all parts move freely.)

54x530 ¶ t

SCREW:—>f

Fig. 35 — Installing Primary Operating Lever and Throttle Shaft Dog

angle in relation to the base of the valve body when the valves are closed, as shown in Figure 35. Install washer and screw and tighten securely. (13) Engage the throttle operating rod with the secondary throttle lever, then slide other end into hole in primary operating lever and install hairpin clip to secure. (14) Place the main body upside down on bench, then install a new throttle body to main body gasket. Now lower throttle body down on main body. Install screws and tighten securely. T h e fuel l e v e l sight screws should be on the same side as the velocity valve counter-weight when properly installed. (15) Turn carburetor right side up on bench, then install the accelerator pump discharge check needle, a s shown in Figure 36. ACCELERATOR PUMP DISCHARGE CHECK NEEDLE

(11) Slide the velocity valve shaft and counterweight into the throttle body. Slide the velocity valves into position, then insert new screws but do not tighten. Now hold the valves in place with the fingers, as shown in Figure 34. (Fingers pressing on high side of valves.) Tap the valves lightly with a screwdriver to seat the valves in the bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screw securely and stake by squeezing with pliers. (12) Slide the primary operating lever over end of primary shaft with tangs facing away from throttle body. Now, slide throttle shaft dog over shaft and down against operating lever. T h e l a r g e r c u r v e d p o r tion of the dog should be facing up, with the ears of the dog making an approximate 45°

54x485

Fig. 36 — Installing Accelerator Pump Discharge Check Needle

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

228

(16) Install the secondary and primary idle jets. (Refer to Figures 22 and 23.) Tighten securely, using Tool T-109-58. (17) Install the main jet (secondary) in the bottom of main body. Tighten securely using Tool T-109-58. (See Figure 21.) (18) Install the main jets (primary) in the bottom of main body. Tighten securely using Tool T-109-58. (See Figure 20.) (19) Install the vacuumeter piston spring in the piston well. (See Figure 18.)

GASKET IN POSITION

FLOAT GAUGE

PRIMARY FLOATS

AIR HORN ASSEMBLY

(1) Place a new gasket over sleeve on rear of choke housing, then install housing in position on air horn. Install screws and tighten securely. (2) Slide the choke piston pin through piston and choke piston link, (see Figure 17) then slide choke shaft assembly into air horn. (3) Slide choke shaft into air horn far enough to allow choke piston to be aligned with center of cylinder. Slightly twist choke lever clockwise and allow piston to enter cylinder. (See Figure 16.) (4) Now slide choke valve down into position (numbered side up) in air horn and start screws (NEW). Holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with screwdriver to center and locate the valve. Tighten screws securely, as shown in Figure 15. With the valve open, stake the screws with a pair of pliers. Do not lubricate any of the choke operating parts. Hold the air horn in an upright position and close the choke valve. The valve should open freely of its own weight. (5) Install the dust plate on choke housing, and install screws. Tighten securely. Now, install choke lever. (6) Invert the air horn and install both the primary and secondary needle valve seats and gaskets. (See Figure 10.) Tighten securely. B e sure e a c h n e e d l e is i n s t a l l e d i n its original s e a t . (7) Invert air horn, then slide the accelerator pump shaft and lever into the air horn just far enough to allow the installation of the accelerator pump arm. See Figures 13 and 14. (8) Install accelerator pump arm with the lever portion facing away from the pump shaft. (See Figure 14.) Continue to slide pump shaft into air horn until shaft protrudes from support boss. Now install the metering rod arm, (see Figure 13) the lifter portion must be aligned with the vacuumeter piston link slot in air horn casting. Install vent cap arm and screw. (9) Install the fuel inlet filter screen, plug and gasket. (See Figure 12.) Tighten plug securely. (10) Now, slide the vacuumeter piston link down into slot in air horn with the lifter lip facing away from

FLOATS SHOULD JUST TOUCH GAUGE AT THESE POINTS

57x298

F¡g. 37—Checking Float Setting pump shaft. Be sure the metering rod tension spring coil is centered in the hole at top of link. (As the link is being lowered, engage the lifter portion of arm in slot in link.) Snug down clamp screw. (11) Slide the choke lever over end of choke shaft with lever pointing towward the accelerator pump shaft lever. (See Figure 14.) Snug down screw. (To be adjusted and positioned later.) (12) Install the primary float needle valve in seat. Now slide the primary float in position and install fulcrum pin. (See Figure 8.) Check float setting as follows: Be sure each needle is installed in its original seat. Float Level Adjustment When making the float level adjustment, be sure the air horn gasket is installed. The primary and secondary floats are set at different heights, using two separate gauges. (1) Place the primary float level gauge Tool T-109222 ( ‰ inch), in position as shown in Fiaure 37.

3/16 INCH PRIMARY FLOAT SETTING

1/4 INCH SECONDA FLOAT SETTING

1/2 ± 1/16 INCH DROP Fig. 38—Float Drop Adjustment

57x299

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8¯WCFB (2) Both floats should just clear the horizontal section in the gauge. Bend float arm as required to obtain correct setting. (3) With notch end of gauge fitting against the side of air horn casting, float arm should be bent for sideways adjustment until floats barely touch the vertical upright of float gauge, see Figure 37. (4) Repeat steps 14, 1, 2, and 3 for secondary floats, using secondary float level Tool T-109-223 (¼ inch). It should be noted that the distance between the float and casting machined surface is ¾, { inch for the primary and ¼ inch for the secondary floats.

Float Drop Adjustment (1) After performing the float level adjustment, hold the air horn assembly in an upright position and note the distance with which the floats drop, as shown in Figure 38. (2) Both the primary and secondary floats should drop ½ inch from gauge setting (plus or minus ‰ ) when measured at center of float, a s shown in Figure 38. (3) Adjust as necessary by removing float and bending the small tang which contacts the float needle seat. Bend tang towards needle seat to lessen drop, or away from seat to increase drop. (4) Invert air horn assembly and remove floats, (5) Install a new horn to main body gasket then reinstall the primary and secondary floats and the vacuumeter piston. Tilt piston approximately 90 degrees to either side. For correct installation position on vacuumeter piston link, see Figure 9. (6) Remove the accelerator pump plunger from jar of gasoline and flex the leather several times. Then check to see if the leather on the accelerator pump is hard, cracked or worn. If any of the afore-mentioned conditions exist, install a new accelerator pump plunger.

Accelerator Pump Test (1) Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl (approximately ½ inch deep). Raise the plunger and press lightly on plunger shaft to expel air from the pump passages. (2) Using a small, clean brass rod, hold discharge check needle firmly down on its seat. Again raise the plunger and press downward. No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage. (3) If any fuel does emit from the intake ball check it should be recleaned and throughly blown out with compressed air. Fuel leakage at the discharge indicates the presence of dirt or a damaged check needle. Clean again and then install a new needle. Recheck for leakage. If either the intake check ball or discharge needle leaks after above test, attempt to reseat as follows: (4) I n t a k e Check Ball—Remove retainer from bottom of accelerator pump cylinder. Insert a piece of

229

drill rod down on check ball. Lightly tap with hammer to torm new seat. Install a new check ball and retest as described above. (5) Discharge Check Needle—Remove jet housing (if not removed), then insert drill rod down on needle. Lightly tap drill rod to form new seat. Discard old needle and install a new one. Retest as described above. If the above instructions do not correct the condition, a new carburetor main body assembly will have to be installed. (6) Install the accelerator pump jet housing gasket, and screw, as shown in Figure 19. Tighten securely. Again as the plunger is being depressed, a clear straight stream should emit from each jet. If the streams are not identical, (if either one is diverted or restricted) a new accelerator jet housing pump should be installed. After test, pour the gasoline from the carburetor bowl and remove the accelerator pump plunger. (7) Slide accelerator pump plunger spring over plunger shaft followed by the spring seats. (Shoulder on seat toward spring.) Now with the spring compressed, slide the plunger end into plunger opening in air horn. With pressure on bottom of plunger, invert air horn and install accelerator pump connector link in the top hole in arm and plunger. (See Fig. 11.) Install hair pin clip to secure. Before installing link, b e sure the h o l e in t h e p l u n g e r shaft is p a r a l l e l to the pump shaft. Install link with the h a i r pin clip g r o o v e e n d entering h o l e in p u m p a r m . (8) Now, lower the air horn assembly carefully down on the main body, guiding the accelerator pump plunger into the well. Be sure the l e a t h e r on t h e plunge r d o e s not curl, or w r i n k l e . A c c e l e r a t o r pump operation will b e affected if this p r e caution is not t a k e n . (9) Install the air horn attaching screws as follows: Insert the six 1 ¼ inch screws around the inside diameter of the air horn and then tighten securely. Next, insert the remaining l ¼ inch screw in its hole in the metering rod chamber. Tighten securely. Insert the 1 inch screw in the thick boss at the corner of the air horn casting, between the automatic choke piston housing and fuel inlet port. Insert the remaining screws (¾ inch) around the outside of air horn, then tighten securely. (10) Install metering rods being careful to engage in loops on metering rod spring. (11) Slide end (45°) of throttle connector rod into pump shaft arm, then install hairpin clip. Position rod retaining clip over throttle shaft lever, then insert end of rod through clip and into lever, (see Figure 5). Snap clip over rod to secure. (12) Engage the keyed end of the choke connector rod with the slot in the choke lever, rotate rod and engage hole in the cam trip lever. (Refer to Figure 4.) Install hair pin clip to secure.

230

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

The carburetor now has been completely assembled with the exception of the metering rod cover. Be sure and make the adjustments to the carburetor in the following order. 5. ACCELERATOR PUMP ADJUSTMENT Before making this adjustment, be sure that the pump connector link is installed in the outer hole (long stroke of the pump lever), with ends extending toward the accelerator pump shaft arm. Back off the idle speed adjusting screw until primary throttle valves are fully seated in their bores. (Make sure that the fast idle adjusting screw is off the fast idle cam.) With the throttle valves seated, hold a straight edge across the top of the dust cover boss, as shown in Figure 39. The flat surface on the top of the pump arm (under set screw) should be parallel with the upper edge of the staight edge. When making this adjustment, be sure that the fast idle adjusting screw does not hold the throttle open. To adjust the pump setting, bend the throttle connector rod at the upper angle using Tool T-109-213, as shown in Figure 40.

TOOL

57x301 Fig. 40—Bending Throttle Connector Rod

METERING RODS BOTTOMED

THROTTLE VALVES SEATED (CLOSED)

6. METERING ROD ADJUSTMENT Loosen the set screw in the metering rod arm (if previously tightened) enough to obtain a slight bind on the pump shaft. Lift lever slightly. With the primary throttle valves seated in their bores, depress the metering rod link until metering rods bottom, as shown in Figure 41. Keeping the lever in contact with the metering rod link, tighten the set screw securely.

54x491 Fig. 41—Metering Rod Adjustment

7. CHOKE ROD ADJUSTMENT Loosen the choke lever clamp screw. Insert a .020 inch FLAT ON PUMP ARMPARALLEL WITH EDGE OF STRAIGHT

57x302 I THROTTLE VALVES IN CLOSED POSITION

Fig. 42—Choke Rod Adjustment

57x300 Fig. 39—Accelerator Pump Adjustment

wire gauge Tool T-109-29, between tang on the fast idle cam and boss on throttle body casting. Hold this gauge in place by pressure of screw driver exerted on choke

FUEL - CARBURETOR - V8-WCFB 27/64 INCH GAUGE

231

SECONDARY OPERATING ROD ! ¯¯¯ DISCONNECTED

VELOCITY

57x303

TANG RESTING AGAINST STOP

TOOL UNLOADER TANG

57x305

Fig. 43—Checking Velocity Valve Clearance

Fig. 45—Bending Unloader Tang

lever clamp screw, as shown in Figure 42. This will automatically take up all slack in the linkage. Hold the choke valve tightly closed, and tighten clamp screw.

2 7/, 70 4 inch has been obtained, when the tang is resting against its stop. (4) Reconnect secondary throttle operating rod to primary operating lever, then install hairpin clip.

9. CHOKE UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT

VELOCITY VALVE ADJUSTMENT

(1) To check the position of the velocity valves, disconnect the secondary throttle operating rod from the primary operating lever by removing hairpin clip. (2) Insert Gauge T-109-242 (2%4") between the lower edge of velocity valve and bore, as shown in Figure 43. In this position, the tang of secondary throttle lever should be resting against its stop. (3) To adjust position, bend tang on secondary throttle lever, using Tool T-109-41 until correct clearance of •11/64 INCH GAUGE

With the primary throttle valves held in the wide open position insert *‰ inch unloader gauge Tool T-109-166 or a #17 drill between upper edge of choke valve and inner dividing wall of air horn, as shown in Figure 44. With the finger pressing against the upper part of choke valve, slight drag should be felt on the gauge as it is being withdrawn. If no drag is felt, or if too much drag is apparent, bend the unloader tang on the throttle lever, as shown in Figure 45, using Tool T-l09-41.

10.

FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

Insert a .010" wire gauge. Tool T-109-200 between the FAST IDLE SCREW ON .HIGH STEP OF CAM .010 INCH WIRE GAUGE

^ ×

3 0 4

" * ! ^

THROTTLE VALVES HELD WIDE OPEN

Fig. 44—Choke Unloader Adjustment

54x494A

F¡g. 46—Fast Idle Adjustment

232

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

primary throttle valves and side of bore opposite idle adjusting screws. Move the choke valve to the fully closed position, and adjust the £ast idle screw to give a slight drag on the wire when the screw is resting on the high step of the fast idle cam, as shown in Figure 46. 11.

/* CHOKE VALVE NOT QUITE WIDE OPEN

VELOCITY VALVE LOCKOUT ADJUSTMENT

Make this adjustment after completing the fast idle adjustment. (1) With the choke valve in the closed position, the edge of the hook on the lockout arm should contact the velocity valve shaft lever, making a maximum contact of the locking step on the lever, a s shown in Figure 47. Bend lock-out arm until desired contact has been obtained. (2) Now, slowly open the choke valve. The velocity valves should become unlocked a few degrees before the choke valve reaches the wide open position, as shown in Figure 48. Bend the tang on the fast idle cam (that raises or lowers the lockout arm) until correct release has been obtained.

Idle speed and mixture adjustment must be performed after installation of the carburetor on the engine. After adjustments have been checked and corrected, install the metering rod dust cover and gasket. Install screws and tighten securely. 12. BOWL VENT CAP ADJUSTMENT With throttle valves closed, the bowl vent cap should lift approximately ¾ 6 inch off its seat. Use Tool T-109197, as shown in Figure 49, to check clearance. To increase clearance, remove metering rod dust cover and bend actuating arm. To decrease lift, press dowr on cap until correct lift has been obtained. CHOKE VALVE CLOSED

57x307

EDGE OF HOOK ^ S H O U L D JUST CLEAR ARM

Fig. 48—Velocity Valve Lockout Adjustment —(Minimum)

13.

INSTALLATION OF CARBURETOR ON ENGINE

(1) Place a new carburetor to manifold gasket of the proper size on the intake manifold, then install the carburetor. (2) Before tightening the attaching nuts, start the fuel line and vacuum spark. This will prevent a possibility of stripping the threads on these connections. (3) Complete tightening of the manifold stud nuts, fuel and spark control. (4) Attach the control unit rod to the choke arm with spring clip. When installing the cross-over choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides of the well. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation. Do not lubricate any parts of the choke or control TOOL

VENT

THROTTLE VALVES HELD CLOSED

MAXIMUM CONTACT

57x306

Fig. 47—Velocity Valve Lockout Adjustment —(Maximum)

57x308

F¡g. 49—Checking Bowl Vent Cap Adjustment

233

FUEL-FUEL P U M P - 6 A N D 8 unit since this causes dirt accumulation which would result in binding of the choke mechanism. Do not attempt to change the calibration setting. This is predetermined and should it be changed, improper choke action would result. (5) Attach the throttle control rod and return spring. (6) Install the air cleaner and gasket, locating the air cleaner to clear the choke housing. Then adjust the carburetor.

14.

IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

(1) Connect a tachometer to the engine and set the hand brake securely. Place transmission in neutral. (2) Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature being sure that the choke is fully off and that the carburetor is on slow idle. (3) Set engine idle at 475-500 rpm, adjusting both idle screws until smooth engine idle is obtained.

FUEL PUMP CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N

Par.

Page

1 — — 4 — 3 2

234 234 234 236 233 235 234

Fuel Pump Fuel Pump (Exploded View—6 Cylinder) Fuel Pump (Exploded View—8 Cylinder) Fuel Tank General Information Servicing the Fuel Pump Testing Pump (on car)

Loose housing screws Worn, ruptured or torn diaphragm Loose diaphragm mounting plates Loose inlet or outlet line fittings Cracked or deteriorated pull rod oil seal Loose rocker arm pivot pin Loose pump mounting bolts Defective pump to block gasket Vent in tank filler neck restricted. (This will also cause collapsed fuel tank) Leaks in fuel line or fittings Dirt or restriction in fuel tank Frozen gas lines Improperly seating valves Vapor lock Weak main spring Incorrect fuel pump Scored or worn rocker arm Weak or broken rocker arm spring

• • • •

Insufficient Fuel Delivery

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Fuel Pump Noise

CONDITIONS

Fuel Pump Leaks—Oil

DIAGNOSIS Fuel Pump Leaks—Fuel

SERVICE

• • • • • • •

• •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The fuel system on the new Dodge 6 and 8 cylinder

c¤rs

consist of the air cleaner, carburetor, fuel pump, tank, automatic choke and throttle linkage. The fuel

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

234 ROCKER ARM HOUSING

PIVOT PIN

PLUG

ROCKER ARM

PLUG

ROCKER ARM HOUSING PIVOT PIN

HAIRPIN CLIP FOLLOWER SPRING

DIAPHRAGM AND PULL ROD ASSEMBLY

DIAPHRAGM AND PULL ROD ASSEMBLY SCREW AND LOCKWASHER SCREW AND LOCKWASHER VALVE BODY VALVE BODY

SCREW AND LOCKWASHER SCREEN

SCREW AND LOCKWASHER AIR DOME DIAPHRAGM SCREEN

COVER 57x272 Fig. ì—Fuel Pump (Exploded View) 6 Cylinder (M2494S)

is first drawn through a porous filter in the gas tank, into the lines to the fuel pump and a ceramic filter mounted at the carburetor. This filter should be cleaned periodically. 1. FUEL PUMP Three different models of fuel pumps are used on the new Dodge cars. The same basic design applies to all three models. The service procedures for testing, disassembly, overhaul, cleaning and reassembly of these pumps are the same. However, slight modifications do exist, and will be covered in the text wherever they appear. For detailed information, refer to the Specification Section of this Manual. Fuel pump model M-2494-S, as shown in Figure lf is used exclusively on the Dodge six cylinder engine. Model M-25O2S, as shown in Figure 2, is used on all V-8 engines except the D500 and V-8's equipped with air conditioning. Model M25O3S, as shown in Figure 3, is used on the D500 and all V-8 engines with air conditioning. The fuel pumps shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3 are driven by an eccentric cam that is cast on the camshaft (6 cylinder) of by a pressed steel eccentric cam, that

AIR DOME DIAPHRAGM

-COVER 57x273 F¡g. 2—Fuel Pump (Exploded View) M25O2S

is mounted on the gear end of the camshaft (V-8 engines). As the camshaft rotates, the eccentric cam presses down on the pump rocker arm. This action lifts the pull rod and diaphragm upwards against the fuel pump main spring, thus creating a vacuum in the valve housing, which opens the inlet valve (or valves). Fuel is drawn into the valve housing chamber. On the return stroke, of the rocker arm, the main spring pressure forces the diaphragm to the down position, which closes the inlet valve (or valves) and expels the fuel in the valve housing chamber through the outlet valve to the fuel filter and carburetor. 2. TESTING PUMP (ON CAR) If the fuel pump fails to supply fuel properly to the carburetor, the following tests should be made before removing the fuel pump. If leakage is not apparent, test pump for pressure by inserting a "T" fitting into the fuel line at the carburetor. Connect pressure gauge Tool C-483 to the "T" and take

FUEL -FUEL PUMP - 6 AND 8

ROCKER ARM HOUSING PIVOT PIN

PLUG

ROCKER ARM

^•-HAIRPIN CLIP FOLLOWER SPRING

DIAPHRAGM A N D PULL ROD ASSEMBLY SCREW A N D LOCKWASHER VALVE BODY

SCREW A N D LOCKWASHER

2 INLET VALVES

AIR DOME DIAPHRAGM

COVER

57x274

Fig. 3—Fuel Pump (Exploded View) M25O3S

pump pressure with engine turning over with starting motor or at idle. The pressure should be 7 pounds, and should remain constant or return to zero veryƒ very slowly when engine is stopped. An instant drop to zero indicates a leaky outlet valve which must be replaced. If the pressure is too low a weak diaphragm main spring, or improper assembly of the diaphragm may be the cause. If the pressure is too high, the main spring is too strong and should be replaced. To test the inlet valve connect a vacuum gauge on the inlet fitting while the line is disconnected. Start engine or turn over with starting motor. There should be a noticeable vacuum present not alternated by blowback. If blowback is present, the inlet valve is not seating properly and must be replaced. 3. SERVICING THE FUEL PUMP Before disassembly, mark housings in such manner that the mark "Inlet" will be facing inlet fuel line when reassembled. This is important! To disassemble the fuel pump for cleaning or over-

235

haul, refer to Figures 1, 2 or 3 (depending on model of pump being worked on), then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the pivot pin plug, using Tool T109-45. (2) Disengage the rocker arm follower spring from the rocker arm and the rocker arm housing. (3) Using a pair of long nose pliers, remove the pivot pin hairpin clip from the groove in the center of the pivot pin. (4) Turn the pump on its side (pivot pin hole down) and rap gently to remove the pivot pin. (5) Disengage the rocker arm from the diaphragm pull rod, then slide out of rocker arm housing. (6) Remove the screws that attach the valve body to the rocker arm housing. Separate body and housing, then lift out the diaphragm and pull rod. (7) Remove the screws that attach the valve body to the valve housing cover. Separate cover and valve body, then remove the outlet air dome diaphragm and strainer screen from the valve body.

Cleaning Fuel Pump Parts Clean all fuel pump parts (except diaphragm) in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compressed air. Check the condition of the valve seats (2 inlet valves on model M25O3S) and ports, for gum deposits. If gum deposits are found, remove with denatured alcohol. If the valves are badly worn or damaged, install a complete new valve body assembly. The valves are not serviced individually. Inspection Examine the diaphragm for cracks, torn screw holes or ruptures. Check the rubber oil seal on the end of the pull rod for deterioration. Check the outlet air dome diaphragm for cracks or deterioration and the strainer screen for dirt or rust. Install new parts as required. Assembling the Fuel Pump Never use shellac or any other adhesive on the diaphragm. To reassemble the fuel pump, refer to Figures 1, 2 or 3, then proceed as follows: (1) Press the strainer screen into the recess in the valve body. Now, place the airdome diaphragm over the valve body with the opening over the filter screen. (2) Align the scribe marks on the cover and valve body, then install attaching screws. Tighten securely. (3) Slide the diaphragm pull rod up into the rocker arm housing. Place the valve body in position on the diaphragm with the scribe marks in alignment. (Be sure the holes in the diaphragm, rocker arm housing and valve body are aligned). Compress the unit together, then install the attaching screws, but d o not tighten. (4) Slide the rocker arm into the housing and engage with the diaphragm pull rod. Align the pivot pin holes

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

236

then slide pivot pin into housing and through arm. Install the pivot pin plug. (5) Install the hairpin clip, using a pair of long nose pliers. Now, install the arm follower spring over the tab on the rocker arm and into recess or over dimple in housing (depending on model of pump). (6) Place pump in a vise (with protector jaws) then pull on rocker arm until full travel is reached. Hold in this position, while tightening the attaching screws. (This will prevent tearing of the diaphragm when the pump is operated and the pump arm travels to its full stroke.)

4. FUEL TANK The fuel tank on conventional models is located at the rear of the body, under the trunk compartment floor. In the suburban models, the fuel tank is mounted in the left rear fender and fin. If a car is to be stored for any appreciable length of time, the gasoline should be drained from the entire system, in order to prevent gum formation. The fuel tank on all models except the suburban, has a 20 gallon capacity. (The suburban tank capacity is 22 gallons.) The filler tube on the conventional models is accessible through the left rear quarter panel filler door, and the suburban at the left rear upper quarter panel between the quarter post and the fin. The fuel tank is fitted with a gauge unit of which the suction pipe is an integral part, as shown in Figure 4. The filter on the end of the suction pipe is a replaceable unit and prevents the entry of water or dirt. When installing a gauge unit, be sure the filter unit is pushed on end of tube until seated. Servicing the Fuel Tank —(Suburban Models) Should it become necessary to remove a suburban fuel tank for repair or the installation of a new tank, refer to Figure 5, then proceed as follows: (1) Drain the tank, then disconnect the fuel line and the lead to the gauge unit. (Under rear fender and behind the wheel house.)

FILLER TUBE LOCKING TAB

CAP ASSY. GASKET SCREW

SCREW

GROMMET FILLER TUBE SLEEVE

DUST SEAL

DUST SEAL SEAL RETAINER O " SEAL RING

UPPER SUPPORT BRACKET

FUEL TANK HOLD D O W N STRAP OUTER FENDER

LOWER SUPPORT M O U N T I N G BRACKET

-SUCTION TUBE FITTING -TERMINAL JAUGE UNIT

FILTER HOLD D O W N STRAP

SHOULDER BOLT

LOWER SUPPORT

57x230 Fig. A—Fuel Gauge Tank Unit

5—Fuel Tank Assembly—(Suburban)

FUEL-FUEL TANK (2) Remove the screws that attach the stone shield to the lower edge oí the wheel house at rear. Remove the shield. (3) Remove the button plug at the rear of wheel house (in front of the gauge unit). (4) Remove the nut and washer that attaches the tank hold down strap, to the lower support. Remove the shoulder bolt. (5) Remove the filler cap, and the filler tube sleeve attaching screws. Using a suitable tool, or C-3584, as shown in Figure 6, pull out the filler tube (a press fit in the tank neck seal). Now, slide the sleeve out of body opening. Remove gasket from sleeve and grommet from filler tube. (6) Remove the bolts that attach the lower support to the inner quarter panel bracket (2 under fender). (7) Slide the tank and lower support, down and out from under fender and car. Separate tank and lower support. Now, reach up under fender and disengage the hold down strap from the bracket (if strap is to be replaced). (8) Remove the tank unit (gauge), using spanner wrench C-3582. Now, slide unit out of tank. Installation of Fuel Tank— (Suburban Models) To install the suburban fuel tank, refer to Figure 5, then proceed as follows: (1) Place a new gasket over gauge unit, then slide into tank. Tighten securely, using spanner wrench C-3582. (2) Slide the hold down strap up under fender and into the open end of the bracket. Insert the end of strap into slot with the hooked edges of the strap and bracket interlocked. Allow strap to hang. (3) Place the lower support over tank with the raised lugs on the side of tank in the outer reinforcing stampings of the support. Install a new "O" seal ring in the neck of tank (refer to Figure 5). (4) Slide tank and support up under fender, with the gauge unit facing front of vehicle. Push tank and support up into position. (5) Install the two lower support mounting bolts through mounting bracket and into the support. Do not tighten. (Make sure the filler neck is aligned with opening in top of fender.) (6) Place a new gasket over the filler tube sleeve and down against flange. Insert sleeve into fender opening. Slide a new grommet over filler tube and position against tube shoulder. Now, insert filler tube into sleeve far enough to engage neck of tank. Drive tube into "O" seal ring until the dimples in the tube contact the seal retainer. (Be sure the anchor tab on tube is aligned with a screw hole in sleeve flange.) Insert screws and tighten securely.

237

157x580 ;.;; Fig. 6 — R e m o v i n g Fuel Tank Filler Tube

(7) Insert the locking shoulder of the strap bolt into its opening in the lower support. Bend strap slightly to align bolt hole with bolt, then slide over bolt. Install lockwasher and nut. Tighten securely. Now, tighten all support bolts securely. (8) Install stone shield, connect fuel line and lead to gauge unit. Reinstall button plugs. Refill tank and check for leaks.

Servicing the Fuel Tank— (Except Suburban) Should it become necessary to remove a fuel tank for repair, or the installation of a new tank, proceed as follows: (1) Drain the tank, then disconnect the fuel line and the wire lead to the gauge unit. (2) Loosen the clamp bolt that holds the filler tube in the fuel tank neck. (3) Using tool C-3584 hooked into the filler tube cap opening, pull the filler tube out of the fuel tank, as shown in Figure 6. (4) Loosen the nuts that hold the ends of the fuel tank hold down straps until the shoulder bolts can be disengaged from the floor pan brackets. Disengage bolts from brackets, and at the same time support the tank. Drop the tank straight down and out from under car. (5) Remove the gauge tank unit, using spanner wrench Tool C-3582. Fuel Tank Installation—(Except Suburban) Before installing the fuel tank gauge unit, check the condition of the filter on the end of suction tube. If filter is corroded, install a new filter. Check the rubber grommet around the filler tube shoulder. If cracked or deteriorated, install new grommet as required. (1) Place a new "O" seal ring in the fuel tank filler neck. Place a new gasket on the tank unit, then install in tank. Tighten securely, using Tool C-3582.

238

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(2) Place the fuel tank in position against floor pan. Hold in this position, then install shoulder bolts into slots in the mounting brackets. Snug nuts down but do not tighten. (3) Insert the filler tube through opening in fender (with the vent channel uppermost), and down until tube is aligned with tank neck opening. Using a rubber hammer. drive the tube into the seal ring until the dimples on the tube seat on the shoulder of the seal retainer. Tighten clamp bolt securely (4) Tighten the tank hold down strap attaching nuts , XT x *u x i i· x fv. * i J *v. securely. Now, connect the fuel line to the tank and the wire lead to the tank unit. (5) Refill the tank and check for leaks. Servicing the Fuel Gauge This electrically operated magnetic gauge responds instantly to any change in fuel level and for this reason, fluctuation of the needle is to be expected as the fuel moves back and forth in the tank when going around a curve or over a rough road. There is no need for a radio static suppressor in this type gauge since contact points have been eliminated. The gauge consists of two units: one located in the fuel tank and designoted as the tank unit, the other located on the instrument panel and designated as the panel unit. n-u x i · •x · x x • i I_ The fuel gauge circuit consists of a single wire between the gauge-accessory stud on the ignition switch and the terminal on the back of the panel unit marked "SW." Another single wire leads from the other stud, marked "GA," to the tank unit. The fuel gauge circuit is grounded at the dash unit and the tank unit through their mounting flanges.

Testing Fuel Gauge A spare tank unit known to be in good condition provides the quickest and most dependable means of testing the panel unit and wiring. T o tøgt t h e p a n e l u n i t a n d w i r i n C T f d i s c o n n e c t the wire o n s t u d ( m a r k e d "GA") on the panel unit and connect t h e s p a r e t a n k u n i t t o t h i s s a m e t e r m i n a i w i t n a suitable p i e œ o f w i r e G r o u n d t h e spare tank unit and turn on the igniüon switch unit

which

O p e r a t e t h e float a r m of t h e s p a r e

ghould

cQuse

tank

indicator

„

„_„ move from E to F corresponding to the float arm r ^ movement from extreme down position to extreme up position. T ofunction Properly the case of the panel unit as well a s t h e tank unit must b e Properly grounded. This can b e checked by temporarily grounding first the panel unit case, then the tank unit case with a jumper wire. If the gauge reading changes when a temporary ground is established, the unit being tested is not properly grounded. T o check t h e wire leading from t h e p a n e l unit to t h e t¢mk

^ ^

r e m Q v e t h e w i r e f r Q m † h e t Q n k u m t a n QC Q n .

^ ^ Qnd Q QS d e s c r i b e d tø . . i - ^ , , . , , ¶ . testing the panel unit. Correct function of the panel unit ? r r ^ c a t e s the wire is not broken and the fault to be in t h e t a n k unit · However, if the panel unit indicates bey ° n d " F " ¤g¤inst the stop for all positions of the float arm, the wire between the panel unit and the tank unit is grounded. If the panel unit pointer does not move at all, the wire is broken. nect

LUBRICATION CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Body and Hood Carburetor Air Cleaner Clutch and Brake Pedals Clutch Torque Shaft Crankcase Ventilation Outlet Pipe Air Cleaner Distributor Engine Oil FilteT Engine Oil Level Indicator Engine Oil Recommendations Front Wheel Bearings Front Wheel Suspension Upper and Lower Ball Joints Gearshift Control Rod Shift Levers General Information Generator Hand Brake Linkage Oil Filler Pipe Cap and Cleaner Propeller Shaft Universal Joints Rear Axle Differential

Par.

Page

19 248 4 243 5 244 6 244 14 247 16 247 3 243 1` 239 2 239 17 247 9 244 7 244 — 239 15 247 8 244 12 245 24 249 MyMopar.com 23 249

LUBRICATION

239

LUBRICATION CONTENTS-(Continued) Par. 18 20 21 11 10 13 22

Rear Springs Speedometer Speedometer Cable Steering Gear Steering Tie Rods Transmission Windshield Wiper Pivots

Page 248 249 249 245 244 245 249

PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION ,pv .L· , , ., . , ^i_ , i tx The vital parts of the engine such a s the crankshaft bearings a n d the camshaft bearings a r e under full pressure lubrication from the oil pump at all times while the engine is running. Other parts such a s the pistons a n d cylinder walls, the piston pins, the timing chain, a n d valve mechanism have been carefully designed with regard to proper lubrication. The meticulous care with which the engine lubrication system h a s been planned a n d built contributes much to the ability of the machine to withstand high speeds and loads over a long period of time. The lubricant fittings a n d sea s on the chassis parts a r e more than adequate to maintain proper lubrication throughout the life of the car, providing the lubrication specifications a r e followed. Refer to lubrication chart (Figures 1 a n d 2) for location of lubrication points.

H a multi-graded oil is to be used, make sure the designated SAE numbers include that recommended , , , _. , , íor ^ a n t i c i p a t e d temperature range The fact that a particular multi-graded oil includes SAE numbers other tnan that recommended for the anticipated temperature change should not be the cause for rejecting its use. For a n example, if the anticipated temperature range is above -f-32° F. SAE 30 engine oil should b e used. For this condition, a multi-graded engine oil of good quality, designated a s SAE 10W-30 would b e satisfactory; howe v e r # a n o i l d e s i g n a t e d a s SAE 5W-20 would not b e satisfact in d s t o t h e r e C ommended specifica. lons * The complete table of Multi-graded Engine oil options i sa s follows: Recommended Multi-Grade

1. ENGINE OIL LEVEL INDICATOR The engine oil level should be checked each time the car is refueled. The engine oil level indicator has two markings: "Full" and "Add Oil." If the oil level is between the "Full" and "Add Oil" marks, it is not necessary to add oil. If the oil level drops to the "Add Oil" mark, or slightly below it, not more than one quart of oil should b e a d d e d (Figures 3 and 4).

Above +32° F.

SAE2OW¯4O SAE 10W-30 Above +10° F. SAE 2OW SAE 20W-40 SAE 10W-30 Above —10° F. SAE 10W SAE 10W-30 SAE 5W-20 Below —10° F SAE5W SAE 5W-20 Do not, under any condition, use any lubricant

2. ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS

¦¦¦¦?£¡ZJ¦? " * " " " " *********

Viscosity No.

The Engine Oil recommendations given below are based on the results of sound experience and scientific test work. Satisfactory engine performance however depends upon the use of only well refined or high quality products. The selection of the proper brand of oil should be based on the reputation of the refiner or marketer. He is responsible for the quality of his product and his reputation is the lubrication department's , r i· L· best assurance of quality. Multi-Graded Oils Many of the oil refiners now market lubricants which are graded SAE 5W-20, SAE 10W-30, and other combinations. Usually these are oils of the lighter grade, with materials added to cause the viscosity to fall within the specifications for the larger SAE number as well as for the smaller SAE number.

Options

SAE 30

Materials Added to Engine Oils Lubricant

reflners

devel

their

e lubrication requirements aI1 d on o t

j„,

ducts

saSsÍY

. other materials added,

t h eefficiency of t h e p r o d u c t

, . . » * i I * · X * ^ I •i· *· American Petroleum Institute Classification The American Petroleum Institute (API) has set up a new system to identify motor oils and the service for which they are intended. In order to acquaint you with this new system and its relation to use in our vehicles, the following information is presented, The American Petroleum Institute has classified automobile operation into three types of service, and an appropriate engine lubricating oil has been made avail-

8o O 73

ñ m >

18 57x270

Complete information pertaining to lubrication of the points indicated on this chart, is given in the text on the following pages. To use the chart, determine a lubrication point number and then refer to the same numbered paragraph in the text. 57x270 Fig. 1—Lubrication Chart—8 Cylinder (Top View)

s O

17 57x271

57x271 Fig. 2â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Lubrication Chartâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;8 Cylinder (Bottom View)

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DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ADD OIL MARK ,

52x963 Fig. 3—Engine Oil Indicator (Dip Stick) (6 Cylinder) "FULL" MARK

able for each. In order to identify these oils, the container will be marked by the letter designation explained below. This system is in addition to and does not replace the SAE grade number which will continue to be used to indicate the relative viscosity of the oil. The classifications, as defined by the API are a s follows: For Service—MS Service typical of gasoline or other spark ignition engines operating under unfavorable or severe types of service conditions, and where there are special lubrication requirements for deposit or bearing corrosion control, due to operating conditions or to engine design characteristics. This type of service may include: (1) High speed, highway driving where the oil becomes unusually hot. (2) Heavy load operation, such as towing house trailers in hilly country. (3) Driving in areas where temperatures below 0 degrees F. are encountered for extended periods. (4) Driving in moderately cold climates where most of the operation consists of short trips. For Service—MM Service typical of gasoline or other spark ignition engines operating under moderate to severe conditions, but presenting problems of deposit or bearing corrosion control when crankcase temperatures are high. This type of service may include: (1) Operation at high speed for short periods of time. (2) Long trips at moderate speeds and summer temperatures. (3) Operation at moderately cold air temperatures where frequent long trips, as well as short trips are included. For Service—ML Service typical of gasoline and other spark ignition engines operating under light and favorable service conditions—the engine having no special lubrication requirements and having no design characteristics sensitive to deposit formation.

587

F¡g·

-Engine Oil Indicator (Dip Stick) (8 Cylinder)

In this type of service, the operation is at moderate speeds where the majority of the trips are more than 10 miles and where no extreme air conditions are encountered. In selecting an engine lubricating oil for Chrysler Corporation built cars (engines), it is very important to obtain a lubricant of good quality from a reputable refiner, and that it be of the proper viscosity for the prevailing temperature. It must be remembered that the API service classification system is principally an additional aid in guiding the motorist in selecting the proper motor oil for his operation. If it is anticipated that the atmospheric temperature will be: Not lower than +32° F Use SAE 30 As low as +10° F Use SAE 20-W As low as —10° F Use SAE 10-W Below —10° F Use SAE 5-W The interpretation of the Engine oil Recommendation table means that S.A.E. 30 is recommended as a general summer oil. It may also be used in tropical climates during the winter months. SAE 10-W is recommended as a general winter conditions such as temperatures below —10 below zero, but not lower. For subnormal winter conditions such as temperatures below —10 degrees, use SAE 5-W. The crankcase should be drained (while the engine is warm) between the first 500 and 1000 miles and replaced with engine oil of the proper viscosity according to the anticipated atmospheric temperature. After this mileage, under normal conditions oil changes should be made every 2500 miles (6 cylinder) and every 5000 miles (8 cylinder). (Mileages given are maximum.) When driving in dusty territories and in cold weather, especially on short runs, the engine oil should be changed more frequently. It is always advisable to drain the crankcase while

LUBRICATION

243

; v:

57x381

NUT SILENCER BODY ASSEMBLY v

WASHER

52x583 Fig. 5—Engine Oil Filter and Element (6 Cylinder)

FILTER ELEMENT

STUD

SHROUD

57x96

Fîg. 6—Engine Oil Filter (8 Cylinder)

the engine is at normal operating temperature, because the oil will drain more completely when hot, and will, therefore, carry more of the foreign material and dirt with it. 3. ENGINE OIL FILTER The function of the oil filter on the engine is to remove dirt and foreign material from the oil in order to assist in keeping the oil clean. This is a continuous process and the filter cartridge or element will continue to trap dirt until it becomes clogged. Due to the manner of connecting the oil filter to the oiling system, clogging of the oil filter element will not stop the circulation of oil to the bearings. However, when the filter becomes clogged, it ceases to filter the oil. It is therefore advisable to install a new filter element approximately every 5,000 miles to coincide with an engine oil change. In dust areas, it may be advisable to change filter element at any time when the oil appears to be excessively dirty. (Figures 5 and 6). 4. CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER The carburetor air cleaners (Figure 7) are designed to provide maximum protection against dirt, dust and

Fig. 7—Carburetor Air Cleaners—6-cylinder (top); 8-cyl¡nder (center); Procedure For Cleaning Element (bottom)

abrasives entering the engine through the carburetor. It is important to give the air cleaner regular attention. Under normal operation remove filter cartridge every 5,000 miles, and tap gently as shown in Figure 7 (bottom view), to remove any accumulation of dirt. Do not wash or oil the filter cartridge. Install a new filter cartridge every 15,000 miles. Under severe driving conditions, service the unit more frequently.

244

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL 7.

GEARSHIFT CONTROL ROD SHIFT LEVERS-(If so Equipped) (1000 miles or 30 days) Chassis Lubricant — 1 lubricant fitting. (See Figure 9.) 8. HAND BRAKE LINKAGE (1000 miles or 30 days) Engine Oil — Clevis pins. (See Figure 10.) Fig. 8—Clutch Torque Shaft Lubrication Fitting (6 and 8 Cylinder)

57x379

Fig. 9—Gearshift Control Rod Shift Levers Lubrication Fitting (6 and 8 Cylinder)

Fig. 11—Front Wheel Suspension Upper and Lower Ball Joints (6 or 8 Cylinder) Fig. 10—Hand Brake Linkage (6 or 8 Cylinder)

5. CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDALS No Lubrication Required at this point. Clutch and Brake Pedals suspended in Nylon Bushings. 6.

CLUTCH TORQUE SHAFT-(If so Equipped) (1000 miles or 30 days) Chassis Lubricant—1 lubricant fitting located at the center of the torque shaft. (See Figure 8.)

FRONT WHEEL SUSPENSION UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS (1000 miles or 30 days) Chassis Lubricant — 4 lubricant fittings. 2 each side of chassis. (See Figure 11.) 10. STEERING TIE RODS (1000 miles or 30 days) Chassis Lubricant — 4 lubricant fittings (1 for each ball joint). (See Figure 12.)

LUBRICATION

245

Fig. 12—Steering Tie Rods

11.

STEERING GEAR-Manual (7000 miles or 30 days) Remove filler plug. Replenish if level is below filler plug hole; do not use pressure gun—SAE 90 Fluid Gear Lubricant. In extremely cold weather, dilute with small amount of SAE 10-W Engine Oil to relieve stiff steering. (See Figure 13.)

57x263] Fig. 14—Power Steering Reservoir

Power Steering—Coaxial—Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A" If level is below the highest point of the filter, replenish until the filter is completely covered. A good g r a d e of SAE 10W engine oil, for Service MM or MS, may be used if Automatic Transmission Fluid —Type "A" is not available. However, when temperatures are consistently below —10 F., the system should be drained and refilled with Automatic Transmission Fluid — Type "A." This fluid then may be left in the system for all subsequent climatic conditions. Before removing the reservoir cover wipe the outside of the cover and case so that no dirt can fall into the reservoir. DO NOT REMOVE OR DISTURB THE FILTER ELEMENT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES. (See Figure 14.)

EVERY OIL CHANGE 12. OIL FILLER PIPE CAP AND CLEANER Remove cap, wash filter element in kerosene, dry thor-

52x944 Fig. 13—Steering Gear Lubrication

Fig. 15—Oil Filler Cap Air Cleaner (8 Cylinder)

oughly and dip in fresh SAE 50 Engine Oil. If SAE 50 is not available, SAE 40 may be used. Reinstall cap. (See Figure 15.) 13.

TRANSMISSION IMPORTANT Do not drain transmission oil before 20,000 mile period. If necessary, SAE 80 engine oil may be added. Standard 3 Speed Transmission—Drain and refill to bottom of filler plug hole. Use SAE 80 engine oil, summer and winter. In territories where SAE 80 engine oil is not available, SAE 20-W engine oil may be used. Lubricant level should be checked every 1,000 miles. If necessary, add lubricant to maintain level to bottom of filler plug hole. (See Figure 16.) PowerFlite and Torque-Flite Transmission — Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A". Cfieck/ng Fluid Level: With the engine idling and brakes applied, each

246

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x507 Fig. 16—Easysh¡ft Transmission (6 or 8 Cylinder)

Fig. 17—Automatic Transmission Lube-Drain Points

push button should be depressed momentarily and then returned to neutral. Then, fluid level should be at the "L" mark on the dipstick for a cold (room temperature) transmission. Fluid level in a transmission that has been brought up to operating temperature (after several miles of operation) should not be allowed to go over the "F" mark on the dipstick. Add Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) if necessary, to bring to proper fluid level. (Refer to Figures 17, 18 or 19.) It is especially important that the above recommendations be followed when servicing the D-500 or patrol car models where extreme high speed operation can be anticipated. TO PREVENT DIRT FROM ENTERING THE TRANSMISSION, MAKE SURE THE OIL LEVEL INDICATOR CAP IS PROPERLY SEATED ON THE FILLER TUBE. Draining: (1) Disconnect oil pan filler tube at the transmission oil pan. (2) Remove access plate from bottom of torque converter housing. Rotate converter until drain plug is accessible. Remove plug and allow fluid to drain. (3) When fluid has stopped draining at torque converter drain plug and oil pan, replace torque converter drain plug and reconnect filler tube to oil pan connector. Tighten securely. (4) Install access plate on torque converter housing. Refilling: (5) Add five quarts of fluid through oil pan filler tube. (Figures 18 or 19.) (6) Start engine and add approximately three more quarts. (7) Shut off engine and follow procedure outlined, in "Checking Fluid Level." If it is anticipated that the average tern-

TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL INDICATOR

TRANSMISSION OÍL PAN FILLER TUBE

Fig. 18—PowerFl¡te Transmission (6 Cylinder)

¾Slfe. Fig. 19—Automatic Transmission (8 Cylinder)

LUBRICATION

Fig. 20—Crankcase Ventilation Outlet Pipe Air Cleaner

perature range will be below—10°F. replace one quart with refined kerosene. This service need be performed only once at the beginning of the low temperature season. Thereafter, necessary replenishment should be with Automatic Transmission Fluid —Type "A" until the next seasonal dilution of the 20,000 mile oil change. TO PREVENT DIRT FROM ENTERING THE T R A N S M I S S I O N , M A K E S U R E T H E OIL LEVEL INDICATOR IS PROPERLY SEATED IN THE FILLER TUBE. 14.

CRANKCASE VENTILATION OUTLET PIPE AIR CLEANER (If so Equipped) Remove air cleaner and wash in kerosene, reoil with SAE 50 engine oil at each engine oil change. If the car is operated in dusty territories, the outlet pipe air cleaner should be cleaned more frequently. (See Figure 20.) 15. GENERATOR (1000 miles or 30 days) 2 oil cups. Five or ten drops of Light Engine Oil in each, every 1,000 miles or 30 days, which ever occurs first. After oil is applied, be sure the oil cup and hole covers are dosed. (See Figure 21.) 16. DISTRIBUTOR (1000 miles or 30 days) 1 oil cup. Five or ten drops of light engine oil at 2,500 miles. Remove the cap and rotor, then oil the felt wick in the top of cam with two or three drops of light engine oil at 10,000 miles. Apply MOPAR Cam Lubricant to bumper block on contact arm. Apply one drop of oil to the pivot of contact arm. Work arm to distribute oil. Wipe away excess oil. See that no oil gets on or near the breaker points. (See Figures 22 and 23.) 17. FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS (70,000 miles or once a year) 2¼ oz. Wheel bearing greases, depending on the manufac-

247

F¡g. 21—Generator Lubrication (6 or 8 Cylinder)

52x580 Fig. 22—Distributor Lubrication (6 Cylinder)

57x582

Fig. 23—Distributor Lubrication (8 Cylinder)

turer, contain Sodium or Lithium soaps, and therefore do not mix satisfactorily. Should these greases be mixed, it results in a semi liquid that has very poor lubricating qualities. Inasmuch as wheel bearing greases made with either substances are satisfactory when used alone and it is

248

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

157x325 Fig. 2 4 — F r o n t Wheel Bearing Lubrication Point

not always possible to know what the greases contain, it is strongly recommended that grease never be added to that already in the wheel bearing. Remove hub and bearings and clean thoroughly. Repack bearings, forcing grease between rollers inner race. Coat the inside of cleaned hub with 2½ ounces of Short Fibre Wheel Bearing Grease—Medium. (See Figure 24.) Note: Rear wheel bearings require no lubrication at any mileage or yearly intervals except in cases where the bearings are removed for any reason or new bearings are installed. In this case the bearings should be thoroughly cleaned and repacked before installing.

57x393

Fig. 26—Hood Latch Lubrication (6 or 8 Cylinder)

57x583 Fig. 27—Front Seat Track—Manual (6 or 8 Cylinder)

57x394

Fig. 28—Hood Hinge Lubrication (6 or 8 Cylinder)

18. REAR SPRINGS The springs are equipped with fabric interliners and require no lubrication. 54x576A Fig. 25—Door Hinges, Locks and Latches

19. BODY AND HOOD (7000 miles or 30 days) DOOR HINGES and other hard-to-lubricate places. Use

LUBRICATION

249

DRAIN Fig. 30—Rear Axle Differential

Lubricant level should be checked every 1,000 miles. If necessary, add lubricant to maintain level to bottom of filler plug hole. (See Figure 30.)

Fig. 29—Speedometer and Cable Lubrication Points (6 or 8 Cylinder)

Dripless Penetrating Oil. DOOR STRIKER PLATES, DOVETAILS, AND ROTOR WHEELS use Door-Ease Lubricant. LOCK CYLINDERS, HOOD LOCK and SECTORS use Lubriplate. (See Figures 25, 26, 27 and 28.) Power Seat — No Lubrication Required. 20.

SPEEDOMETER (10,000 miles or once a year) It is necessary to remove the speedometer for lubrication. Remove 4 bezel screws (2 top and 2 bottom) disconnect cable, then slide speedometer assembly out and away from panel, as shown in Figure 29. Unscrew oil tubes, and saturate wicks with speedometer oil, then replace assembly in panel. 21.

SPEEDOMETER CABLE (10,000 miles or once a year) Disconnect cable at instrument and remove shaft. Coat shaft with All-Weather Speedometer Cable Lubricant and reinstall (See Figure 29.) 22. WINDSHIELD WIPER PIVOTS Oilite Bushings—No Lubrication Required. 23.

REAR AXLE DIFFERENTIAL (20,000 miles or 2 years) Drain and refill to bottom of filler plug hole. Multipurpose Hypoid Gear Lubricant. Summer and Winter above —10° F SAE 90 Extreme Winter below —10° F SAE 80

52×S93 Fig. 31—Ball and Trunnion Universal Joint Lubrication Point

24.

PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINTS (20,000 miles or 2 years) Ball and Trunnion—Disassemble, clean and repack with 1 ½ ounce Heavy Fiber Universal Joint Grease (See Figure 31.) Cross and Roller—Disassemble, clean and repack each reservoir in cross spider journals with Marfak "O" lubricant or equivalent. (See Figure 32.)

MISCELLANEOUS LUBRICATION INFORMATION POINTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION Starter, Clutch Release Bearing, Rear Spring Bolts and Shackles, Shock Absorbers, and Sway Eliminator Rubber Bushings, Automatic Choke and Carburetor Linkage and Idler Puller. (If so equipped.)

250

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL iced as required. In dusty territories, the air cleaners should be cleaned often—under extreme conditions, once a day may be necessary. If crankcase oil becomes contaminated through failure to service the units, drain engine, replace filter and refill with new oil.

RUBBER PARTS The rubber bushings used on Dodge cars are designed to grip the contacting metal parts firmly and operate as a flexible medium between these parts. T h e u s e of any lubricant will destroy the necessary friction and cause noise and premature failure of the rubber parts.

5éx57S

Fig. 32—Cross and Roller Universal Joint Lubrication Point

SPECIAL ATTENTION Cars operated principally on gravel or dusty roads or through an unusual amount of water may need lubrication attention more frequently and should be serv-

OILITE BEARINGS "Oilite" bearings are, to a great extent, self-lubricating and are for this reason ideal for use in locations where lubrication is difficult to maintain. They contain copper, tin, solid lubricants and lubricating oil of different proportions and characteristics depending upon the requirements of the bearings.

REAR AXLE AND SUSPENSION CONTENTS

Par Page

2 PINION DIFFERENTIAL REAR AXLE SPRINGS SHOCK ABSORBERS PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL IOINTS

_ _ — —

250 263 266 267

7 4 10 8 2 3 — 9 6 5 1

258 255 262 259 253 253 252 262 257 256 252

REAR AXLE CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Assembling the Carrier Assembling the Differential (2 pinion) Axle Shaft End Play Differential Bearing Pre-load and Backlash Disassembly of the Carrier Assembly Disassembly of the Differential (2 pinion) General Information Installing Rear Axle Pinion Setting Rear Axle Adjustment Servicing the Rear Axle

Insufficient lubrication Lubricant level too high Worn seals Improper grade of lubricant Cracked housing

•

Overheating

Loss of Lube

Gear Noise

•

Teeth Broken

Scored Gears

Gear Hub 1 Broken

•

Gear Case Broken

•

Axle Shaft Broken

Axle Noise

CONDITIONS m^> POSSIBLE CAUSES X

Wheel Noise

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • •

•

• •

REAR AXLE

251

Scored or worn bearings (differential) Scuffed or scored teeth Worn thrust washers Improperly adjusted differential bearings Improperly adjusted pinion shaft bearings Excessive gear lash—ring gear and pinion Excessive end play—pinion bearings Brinelled, scored or worn wheel bearing Improper wheel bearing adjustment Bent or sprung axle shaft Axle shaft end play Loose wheel on shaft Worn keyways Loose hub nuts—wheel Excessive spinning—one wheel Loose companion flange nut Broken rear spring Rear axle shifted Overloading vehicle Grabbing clutch

• •

Overheating

Loss of Lube

Gear Noise

Teeth Broken

Scored Gears

Gear Hub Broken

Gear Case Broken

Axle Shaft Broken

Axle Noise

POSSIBLE CAUSES

CONDITIONS B ^ X

Wheel Noise

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

•

• •

•

• • •

• • • • • • •

# •

•

• • •

•

• NUT -•—

CONE A N D ROLLER

CUP

CAP

BOLT

SCREW

. i _ 8 ¼ Rear Axle (Exploded View) 6 Cylinder

52x719C

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

252 THRUST WASHER

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER SHAFT DIFFERENTIAL CAS£ PIN 1 BEARING CONE

SPACER

CUP DRIVE GEAR A N D PINION WASHER

SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER PINION ¦ SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER

ADJUSTING WASHER BEARING CONE THRUST BLOCK THRUST WASHER

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

57x2

Fig. 2—8¾ Rear Axle (Exploded View) V-8

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The rear axle assemblies used on the new Dodge are of the 2 pinion semi-floating type, as shown in Figure 1 or 2. The differential, drive pinion and axle shafts are carried on adjustable taper roller bearings. The rear cover is welded to the axle housing, necessitating the removal of the differential assembly in order to adjust the differential bearings. The ring gear is mounted on the differential case flange by special alloy steel bolts. In order to insure quiet, smooth operation, the ring gear and pinion are serviced only in matched sets. The splined ends of the axle shafts engage in the differential side gears. The outer ends of the axle shafts are tapered and are provided with key ways for attaching the rear wheel hubs, which are supported by adjustable tapered roller bearings pressed on the axle shafts. Side thrust from the wheels is transferred from one shaft to the other by the medium of a thrust block located in the center of the differential case. 1.

(4) Remove the rear axle drive shaft key, then remove the brake and dust shield. (5) Remove the shims from each end of the axle housing. Each set should be kept separate so that at reassembly, the central location of the axle, shafts, wheels and thrust block will be assured. (6) Remove the axle shafts and bearings from the housing, using puller Tool C-499. (7) If necessary, remove the bearings from the axle shafts, using bearing puller Tool C-293-13, as shown in Figure 3. (8) Remove the rear axle shaft inner oil seals, using puller Tool C-637. (9) Disconnect the rear universal joint and drop the propeller shaft.

SERVICING THE REAR AXLE

(1) Jack up the car and remove the rear wheels, hub and drum assembly, using wheel puller Tool C-845. Do not strike the e n d of a x l e shaft to l o o s e n the h u b ; otherwise, possible d a m a g e to the a x l e shaft b e a r i n g s a n d thrust block might result. (2) Block the brake pedal so it cannot be depressed. (3) Disconnect the brake line at the wheel cylinders.

6X57

Fig. 3—Removing Bearing from Axle Drive Shaft (Puller C-293-13) l-A×le drive shaft

2-TooI C-293

3-Bearing

REAR AXLE SCRIBE MARKS

253

PUNCH MARKS

57x5

Fig. 6—Removing Companion Flange

57x3

Fig. 4—Marking Bearing Caps and Nuts Before Removal

(10) Remove the bolts that hold the carrier assembly to the axle housing, then lift out the carrier assembly from under the car.

DISASSEMBLY OF CARRIER ASSEMBLY

To disassemble the carrier assembly, refer to Figure 1, then proceed as follows: (1) Check gear tooth pattern before disassembly. (2) With the carrier assembly mounted in stand, mark both the difíerential bearing adjusting nuts and caps, as shown in Figure 4. The c a p s must NOT b e i n t e r c h a n g e d a s t h e y a r e l i n e b o r e d with t h e carrier housing at manufacture. (3) Remove the companion flange retaining cotterpin, nut and flatwasher, as shown in Figure 5. (4) Using puller Tool C-452, and flange holding Tool C-784, remove the companion flange, as shown in Figure 6. (5) Insert pinion shaft oil seal puller Tool C-748 into seal and remove from housing, as shown in Figure 7.

57x6

Fig. 7—Removing Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal

(6) Remove the pinion bearing oil slinger, bearing cone, pre-load shims and spacer. (7) Remove the adjusting nut locks, then loosen the differential bearing cap retaining bolts and adjusting nuts to relieve the load on the bearings. (8) Remove the caps and adjusting nuts. (9) Lift the differential case and ring gear assembly out of the carrier. (10) Remove the difíerential bearing cups from the bearings. (11) Slide the drive pinion, bearing and washer out through the gear end of the difíerential carrier. (12) If necessary, remove the rear bearing from the pinion shaft, using Puller Tool C-293, as shown in Figure 8. Slide the pinion adjusting washer off shaft. NOTE: When using Tool C-293, be sure and use number 36 plates. (13) If necessary, remove both bearing cups from the carrier housing, using a suitable drift. Place the drift alternately in the two machined slots, in order to drive the cups out evenly.

3. 57x4

Fig. 5—Removing or Installing Companion Flange Nut

DISASSEMBLY OF THE DIFFERENTIAL

(1) Remove the bolts which attach the ring gear to the difíerential case. (Bolts are left hand thread.) Tap the ring gear off the case flange, using a fibre hammer.

254

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

PLATES

52x374 A

Fig. 8—Removing Bearing from Pinion

57x8

Fig. 10—Removing Differential Bearings OCKPIN

57x7

Fig. 9—Checking Ring Gear Mounting Flange Run-out

(2) Mount the differential case in the carrier and remove excessive play from the bearings with the adjusting nuts. Now, mount a dial indicator on the carrier mounting face and check the ring gear mounting flange run-out, as shown in Figure 9. Run-out should not exceed .003 inch. Inspect the bolt holes in the ring gear mounting flange for wear or out of round. If the bolt holes are out of round, the ring gear will creep on the case. (3) Remove the differential case from the carrier. (4) Fit number 18 plates behind bearings and then pull off the differential bearings using Tool C-293, as shown in Figure 10. (Number 27 plates 6 cylinder.) (5) Remove the differential pinion shaft lock pin by driving out of the case using a hammer and punch, as shown in Figure 11. (6) Drive the differential pinion shaft out of the differential case, using a brass drift and hammer. (7) Lift out the rear axle drive shaft thrust block. (8) Rotate the pinion gears 90° away from pinion

57x9

Fig. 11—Removing the Differential Pinion Shaft Lockpin

shaft hole and remove from case, as shown in Figure 12. Lift out the differential side gears and thrust washers. Cleaning and Inspection Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Remove any chips or foreign material from the carrier housing. Inspect all machined surfaces for nicks, burrs or scratches. Inspect the thrust shoulders in the carrier housing (bearing cups) to make sure there are no burrs on them. The thrust shoulder must be flat, so that the bearing cups will seat properly. Check the differential case for cracks.

REAR AXLE

255

PINIONS

TOOL

BEARING

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ M M « M

G E A R S

PINION SHAFT HOLE ML.---"

57xio

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing Differential Gears and Washers

fractures, distortion or damage. Install a new case if necessary. The bearings should be immersed in clean solvent and rotated by hand until clean. After cleaning, blow dry with compressed air. Do not spin t h e b e a r i n g s with air pressure when blowing them dry, as they are likely to score due to absence of any lubrication. Check the bearings for roughness, or brinelling. The bearings must run free and show no indication of roughness or wear. Examine the bearing cups for pitting, scoring or wear. Inspect all gears for chipped or worn gear teeth. Check the fit of the differential side gears on the axle shaft splines and the differential gears on the pinion shafts. Check the thrust washers for wear and replace if necessary. Inspect the axle shafts for twists; the splines for wear, cracks or distortion. Any evidence of the above conditions will necessitate the installation of new parts.

57x11

Fig. 13—Installing Differential Bearings

case). Continue to rotate gear cluster until gear shaft holes and case holes are aligned. (3) Coat all parts with Hypoid Gear oil, then continue to assemble the differential. (4) Line up the locking pin hole in the pinion shaft. Slide pinion shaft into hole in case and into pinion gear. Install the spacer block with elongated portion of hole toward side gears. Continue to slide shaft through block, opposite gear and into case until end of shaft is flush with case. (5) Install the pinion shaft locking pin in the case and drive in place. Peen the metal of the case over pin to hold pin in place. (6) Install the ring gear on the flange, then place (locking tabs in position 6 cyl.) and install the gear retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts from 35 to 40 footpounds. (7) Place a differential bearing in position on the hub. Using Tool DD-1005, a s shown in Figure 13, drive the bearing down into position. Install other bearing in like manner.

ASSEMBLING THE DIFFERENTIAL

If new differential side gears are to be installed, place a new thrust washer over the hub of each gear and install in position in the differential case, then proceed a s follows: (1) Slide new thrustwashers over the differential side gears and place in position in case. Insert pinion gear in case and with teeth meshed, rotate side gears until pinion gear is at bottom. (Refer to Figure 12.) Install remaining pinion gear so that the teeth mesh and pinion shaft hole in each gear is in perfect alignment (gears 180° diametrically opposite). (2) Rotate complete gear cluster and at the same time, insert the pinion gear washers (between gear and

COMPRESSION SLEEVE (TOOL) CENTRALIZING WASHER (TOOL)

57x12

Fig. 14—Compression Sleeve and Centralizing Washer ¡n Position

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

256

(8) Place the differential bearing cups over the bearings, then install complete assembly in the carrier housing. (9) Seat the adjusting nuts in the pedestals of the carrier housing, then install the caps and bolts. NOTE:

Be sure the caps are on the same side from which they were removed. (10) Mount a dial indicator with the pointer resting against the back face of the ring gear and check the run-out. Run-out should be true within .004 inch total indicator reading.

5. REAR AXLE ADJUSTMENT To set the ring gear and pinion for quiet operation and long life, the following adjustments must be made in the order indicated. (1) Pinion bearing pre-load. (2) Pinion setting. (3) Differential bearing pre-load. (4) Backlash between ring gear and pinion.

Installation

of Drive Pinion Bearing Cups

Place the bearing cups in position in the carrier, then proceed as follows: (1) With the bearing cups squarely in position in the carrier, assemble Tool C-758-D2 by placing the rear pinion bearing over the main screw of tool and inserting into carrier from the gear side. (2) Now, place the front pinion bearing over the main screw, followed by adaptor SP-535, washer SP-534 and nut SP-533, as shown in Figure 14. Press the bearing cups into place by tightening the tool nut, as shown in

loading, the cones are not drawn far enough into their cups to bring the rollers in full contact with the thrust ribs on the cones. Bearings installed in this manner would allow the pinion to "walk" backward and forward under operating loads. This causes a variation in tooth contact pattern, resulting in excessive wear and scoring of gears, and usually is accompanied by noise. On the other hand, where the pinion bearing cones are drawn too far into their cups, the bearings are overloaded even before they have to withstand operating loads imposed upon them by the gears. They are apt to "burn up" under a driving load—the rollers might score the cups, causing bearings to gall or flake, resulting in premature axle failure. Correct cone distance is obtained by the use of a spacer and washer combination. Do not install the pinion oil seal during the pre-load and pinion setting operations. Otherwise, there will be an added drag on the pinion shaft which would give a false bearing pre-load on the torque wrench.

DRIVE PINION REAR BEARING CONE

SP-1730 SLEEVE

Figure 15. Allow the Tool to rotate slightly in order not to damage bearings or cups during this operation. Pinion Bearing Pre-load Adjustment The importance of correct pinion bearing pre-load cannot be over-emphasized. The selection of washers to give the desired pre-load should be carefully made. When pinion bearings are installed without pre-

52x379

Fig. 16—Installing Bearing on Tool

57x14 57x13

Fig. 15—Seating Bearing Cups in Carrier Housing

17—Tightening Compression Nut with Torque Wrench

REAR AXLE

257

the bearing pre-load by revolving the tool with an inchpound torque wrench. With the bearings lubricated with hypoid gear oil, the pre-load should read from 20 to 30 inch-pounds, as shown in Figure 18. If the bearing adjustment does not conform to the above specifications, it will be necessary to change the adjustment by either a thicker or thinner shim pack. Use a thicker shim pack if the pre-load is above 30 inchpounds or a thinner shim pack if the pre-load is below 20 inch-pounds. After the correct pre-load has been obtained, leave the tool in position in the carrier with the compression nut tightened at 180 to 200 foot-pounds. This is necessary to obtain the correct pinion setting. 57x15

Fig. 18—Checking Preload Torque (Inch-Pounds)

To check and adjust the pinion bearing pre-load, refer to Figure 20 and proceed a s follows: (1) Coat the drive pinion bearings with differential lubricant (multi-purpose SAE 90). (2) Assemble the drive pinion shaft rear bearing on the main body of Tool C-758-D2, as shown in Figure 16. (3) Slide SP-1730 sleeve, drive pinion bearing spacer and bearing adjusting shims over tool and then insert the assembly into the carrier. (4) Slide the front pinion bearing over the tool and down into position in the bearing cup. (5) Now, slide compression sleeve SP-535 and centralizing washer over tool and slide down into position, as shown in Figure 14. Install the compression nut. (6) Tighten the tool nut with a torque wrench from 180 to 200 foot-pounds, as shown in Figure 17. (7) Turn the tool with a speed wrench to permit the bearings to seat. After the bearings have seated, check GAUGE BLOCK (TOOL)

57x16

Fig. 19—Installing Gauge Block on Tool

6. PINION SETTING When replacing a ring gear and pinion, remember that they are matched and lapped in pairs. The position in which the best tooth contact is obtained is etched on the end of the pinion shaft. The pinion is generally etched with a plus (+) or minus (—) sign, followed by a number (ranging from 1 to 4), or it may be marked zero (0). If the old and new pinions have the same markings, the old washer may be used providing new bearings and cups are also used. If the pinion being replaced is marked zero (0) and the new pinion to be installed is marked plus two (-f-2), a thinner washer may be used. If the new pinion were marked minus two (—2), a thicker washer could be used. Pinions marked plus ( + ) generally use a thinner washer while pinions marked minus (—) use a thicker washer. Pinion spacer washers are available in nine different sizes for a choice selection: Washer Thickness .084 in. .094 in. .086 in. .096 in. .088 in. .098 in. .090 in. .1 in. .092 in. (1) Fasten the gauge block SP-528 to the rear of the tool, as shown in Figure 19. Tighten the set screw securely. (SP-528 takes the place of the drive pinion during the setting operation.) (2) Place SP-561 arbor, in the differential carrier bearing supports, as shown in Figure 21. Assemble the bearing caps and bolts to the carrier housing. Tighten the bolts to 10 foot-pounds. Before installing t h e arbor, remove any burrs or upsets in the bearing bores. Any foreign material in the bores will not allow the arbor to seat properly. The distance represented between the gauge block and the arbor determines the thickness of the spacer washer that should be used to give the correct pinion setting. (3) Select a pinion washer of sufficient thickness that

258

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

PINION LOCATING WASHER OR SHIM ASSEMBLY OF SP-526

, CARRIER ASSEMBLY

57x152

Fig. 20—Setting Pinion Bearing Pre-load with Tool C-758-D2¯3

ARBOR (TOOL)

57xì7

Fig. 2 1 — Installing Arbor SP-561

two surfaces by hand, the .090 inch washer should be used, even though it might feel loose. Check the end of the drive pinion as it may indicate the amount that should be added or subtracted from the washer that was selected in the above mentioned check. As an example, if the mark on the pinion shaft indicated + 2 , a .002 inch thinner washer should be used for the final assembly. If a spacer selected by the use of the tool is .090 inch, it is necessary to deduct .002 inch, therefore, the correct washer for final assembly would be .088 inch. When the correct washer has been selected for the drive pinion, disassemble the tool from the differential carrier housing. 7. ASSEMBLING THE CARRIER

49x615

Fig. 22—Determining Spacer Washer Thickness

will just pass between the arbor and the gauge block, as shown in Figure 22. For an example, if a .090 inch washer can be inserted but a .092 inch washer cannot be forced between the

(1) Slide the previously selected washer over the pinion shaft and down against the machined surface of the drive pinion. Now, slide the rear bearing down over the pinion shaft and press into position using Tool DD996 and an arbor press. (2) Slide the bearing spacer over pinion shaft, followed by the shim pack selected during preload operation. (3) Insert the drive pinion, bearing, spacer and shim pack into the differential carrier housing. B e s u r e t h e b e a r i n g s a r e c o a t e d with Hypoid g e a r oil. (4) Slide the front bearing over the pinion shaft and down into position in the cup, then install the bearing oil slinger. (5) Install a new oil seal over the pinion shaft and drive into position, using Tool C-359, as shown in Fig-

ure 23. NOTE: When installing new leather oil seals, care must be taken to make certain the leather is in good condition, soft and pliable.

259

REAR AXLE

OIL SEAL 57x18

F¡g. 23—Installing the Drive Pinion Oil Seal

N e w s e a l s should b e s o a k e d i n thin oil for about 3 0 m i n u t e s , t h e n w o r k t h e l e a t h e r b y r o l l i n g with a smooth b a r , before installing. Synthetic s e a l s r e q u i r e n o p r e p a r a t i o n except initial lubrication. (6) Install the companion flange on the pinion shaft, using Tool C-496. (7) Install the companion flange retaining washer and nut. Holding the companion flange with Tool C-784, tighten the nut from 180 to 200 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench. (8) Place the differential bearing cups over the bearings, then install complete assembly in the carrier housing. (9) Seat the adjusting nuts in the pedestals of the carrier housing, then install the caps and bolts. Be s u r e the caps are on the same side from which they were removed. (10) Mount a dial indicator with the pointer resting against the back face of the ring gear and check the run-out. Run-out should be true within .004 inch, as shown in Figure 24.

57x20

F¡g. 25—Adjusting Differential Bearings

DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRE-LOAD AND BACKLASH

In order to make certain that the differential bearings and cups are properly seated, proceed as follows: (1) Using spanner wrench C-4O6A, as shown in Figure 25, turn the right hand bearing adjusting nut in a clockwise rotation until considerable backlash exists between the ring gear and the pinion. Back off the adjusting nut several turns. (2) Tighten the lower pedestal bolts from 85 to 90 foot-pounds, leaving the top bolts slightly loose. This holds the bearing cups in line while moving the ring gear.

57x21 57x19

Fig. 24—Checking Ring Gear Run-out

Fig. 26—Checking Backlash between Ring Gear and Pinion

260

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(3) Mount the dial indicator on the differential housing so that the plunger rests against one of the ring gear teeth, as shown in Figure 26. (Make certain that the indicator is properly positioned so that the plunger will accurately indicate the exact amount of backlash.) (4) Check the backlash between the ring gear and the pinion at 90° intervals as the ring gear is rotated, then stop at the point of least backlash. (5) Now, turn the left hand (tooth side) bearing adjusting nut in a clockwise rotation until only .001 inch backlash exists between the ring gear and the pinion. Be sure that the right hand adjusting nut is kept screwed out so that the bearing cup can move without interference. (6) Make certain that the right hand (back face of ring gear) bearing adjusting nut is in position where the nut lock and attaching bolt can be installed. Then tighten the upper right h a n d bearing cap bolt from 85

to 90 foot-pounds. In order to properly pre-load the bearings, the entire procedure must be v e r y carefully performed. Therefore, it is important to e n d up with . 0 0 1 inch c l e a r a n c e between the ring g e a r a n d the pinion before the upper bolt is tightened. (7) Turn the left h a n d adjusting nut in a clockwise direction until the dial indicator shows a backlash of .006 inch between the ring gear and the pinion, as shown in Figure 26. Considerable effort will be required to turn the adjusting nut to the last notch or two, however, this is necessary to insure adequate pre-load. The adjustment should end so that the adjusting nut lock and attaching bolt can be installed. (8) Tighten the left hand bearing cap attaching bolt from 85 to 90 foot-pounds, then recheck the other three. After final tightening of all pedestal bolts, recheck the backlash. As a result of this method of adjustment, the carrier pedestals have been spread and the differential bearings pre-loaded; and the backlash between the ring gear and pinion correctly set. Whenever the a d justment of the differential assembly is changed to obtain correct tooth contact, readjust the differential bearing pre-load and the backlash between the ring gear and pinion. Checking Tooth Contact

If all the adjustments have been correctly made, the gears will be properly meshed and quiet in operation. However, proper tooth contact is essential for quiet gear operation and long life, therefore, it is recommended that the tooth contact be checked with red lead before the differential carrier assembly is installed in the axle housing. Check tooth contact by means of red lead applied

46x2S5

Fig. 27—Applying Red Lead to Gear Teeth

x256

Fig. 28—Correct Gear Tooth Contact

Fig. 29—Heavy Face Contact

to the ring gear teeth, as shown in Figure 27. Apply load against the back face of the ring gear with a round bar as the drive pinion is rotated. This leaves a bare area, the size, shape and location of contact. If upon examination, improper tooth contact is evident, as indicated in Figures 29, 30, 31, and 32, the pinion gear should be adjusted either forward or backward, or the ring gear to or from the pinion to maintain backlash within specified limits, until correct tooth contact has been obtained, as shown in Figure 28. With adjustments properly made, correct tooth con-

261

REAR AXLE OUTWARD MOVEMENT OF PINION

OUTWARD MOVEMENT OF GEAR

INWARD MOVEMENT OF GEAR

Fig. 33—Gear Tooth Nomenclature

Fig. 30—Heavy Flank Contact

tact, as shown in Figure 28, will result. Notice that the contact pattern is well centered on the drive and coast sides, about ‰ inch from the edges of the teeth. When tooth marks are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. However, under an actual operating load, the contact area will spread out—the higher the load, the greater becomes the contact area. Figures 29, 30, 31 and 32 showing improper or incorrect tooth contact, call for readjusting the ring gear and pinion as follows: Refer to Figure 33 for Gear Nomenclature. Heavy Face Contact If the tooth marking is across the length of the tooth, narrow and high on the tooth face, as shown in Figure 29 the teeth will roll over or gall. This type of contact causes excessive wear and noise. To correct h e a v y face contact—move the pinion in toward the center of the ring gear by installing a thicker washer behind the pinion. Readjust backlash.

Fig. 31—Heavy Toe Contact

Heavy Toe Contact If the tooth marking is too heavy on the toe of the tooth, as shown in Figure 31, the tooth edges might chip and damage or excessive wear will result. To correct heavy toe contact—move the ring gear a w a y from the pinion. However, this adjustment might increase the backlash beyond .010 inch. If such is the case, insert a thicker washer behind the pinion. This will move the pinion in toward the ring gear and bring the backlash within specifications of .006 to .010 inch. Heavy Flank Contact If the tooth marking is across the length of the tooth, but narrow and low on the flank, as shown in Figure 30, the teeth will gall or score. This type of contact causes excessive wear and noise. To correct heavy flank contact—move the pinion a w a y from the center of the ring gear by using a thinner washer behind the pinion. Readjust backlash.

Fig. 32—Heavy

ContacT

Heavy Heel Contact If the tooth marking is too heavy on the heel of the tooth, as shown in Figure 32, the tooth edges might chip and damage or excessive wear will result.

262

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 34—Installing Axle Shaft Oil Seal V

REAR AXLE SHAFT

56x236

Fig. 36—Axle Shaft Bearing Adjusting Shims— Checking Axle Shaft End Play

^BEARING CONE AND ROLLERS

axle shaft thrust block. (6) Install sleeve Tool C-757 in the axle bearing outer oil seal before mounting the brake support plate to the axle housing. This will protect seal from being damaged by the axle shaft keyway during installation. TOOL

49x7¶4

Fig. 35—Installing Axle Shaft Bearing

To correct heavy heel contact—move the ring gear i n t o w a r d the pinion. However, this adjustment may decrease the backlash. If such is the case, insert a t h i n n e r washer behind the pinion. This will move the pinion a w a y from the ring gear and bring the backlash within specifications.

INSTALLING REAR AXLE

(1) Install the carrier assembly to the axle housing, using a new gasket. Tighten the mounting nuts from 40 to 45 foot-pounds. (2) Reinstall the rear axle drive shaft inner oil seal, using Tool C-839, as shown in Figure 34. W h e n e v e r oil s e a l s h a v e b e e n r e m o v e d , or disturbed, a l w a y s install n e w s e a l s at r e a s s e m b l y . (3) To reinstall the axle shaft, first replace the bearing on the axle shaft, using Tool C-158, as shown in Figure 35. Insert the axle shaft in the housing, making sure the shaft and differential side gears splines are in alignment. (4) Install the axle drive shaft outer bearing cup (if removed), using Tool C-413. (5) Install shims in the same manner as they were removed, so as to maintain the central position of the

10. AXLE SHAFT END PLAY Axle shaft bearings are adjusted by removing or installing shims; which are available in thicknesses of .005, .010, .0125, .015 and .030 inch. One or more of these shims should be used as required to obtain proper adjustment. When checking axle shaft end play, if it is necessary to add or remove more than .020 inch shims, half of the amount should be added or removed on each side to retain the center position of the thrust block on the differential pin, between the two axle shafts. (1) To check axle end play, remove wheel and hub, then tighten the brake support plate attaching nuts securely. (2) Tap each axle shaft lightly to be sure the bearings are seated, then place a dial indicator on the axle drive shaft and housing, as shown in Figure 36. Pull out and push in on the shaft to obtain the end play reading on the indicator. (3) If the dial indicator shows less than .008 inch or more than .013 inch end play, remove the brake support plate and oil seal and add or remove shims as required (see Figure 36). (4) As a final operation, check the end play again with the dial indicator to make sure it comes within the .008 to .013 inch limits. (5) Tighten support plate retaining nuts from 30 to 35 foot-pounds. Connect brake tubes and bleed brakes. (6) Fill the rear axle differential with the correct viscosity Hypoid oil.

263

SPRINGS

SPRINGS CONTENTS SERVICE I N F O R M A T I O N General Information Servicing Spring Interliners Spring Maintenance

Par.

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263 264 263

Excessive overload Loose "U" bolts Inoperative shock absorbers Extreme Abuse over rough roads Rear axle bumper blocks missing Loose rebound clips Loose or worn shackle bushings Spring eye hitting front bracket Broken spring leaves Springs settled Worn or missing inserts

Springs Sag or Bottom

POSSIBLE CAUSES A ,

Spring Noise

CONDITIONS

Spring Breakage

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

•

• • • •

•

• • • •

• •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The spring front pivot bolts are cushioned in rubber which tends to help reduce noise and allows increased riding comfort through a reduction in torque and brake reaction shock. (No lubrication is required at this point.) (See Figure 1.) The rear ends of the springs are attached to the frame through the medium of flat plate shackles, rubber shackle bushings, shackle bolts and nuts. Thus, the suspension of the rear springs in rubber tends to reduce road noise to a minimum. (No lubrication is required at the rear shackles.) (See Figures 2 or 3.) All six cylinder models are equipped with 4 leaf springs. Eight cylinder models use springs with 4½ leaves, except the suburban models, both six and eight cylinder, which are equipped with 5½ leaf springs. (Refer to Specifications.) The half leaf is located forward of the axle centerline on the bottom. (Refer to Figure 3.) 1. SPRING MAINTENANCE It is important that spring "U" bolts be inspected at regular intervals and kept tight to prevent spring breakage. Tighten spring "U" bolt nuts from 62 to 69 foot-pounds. The spring shackles should be inspected occasionally to

make sure they are tight, but not binding. Tighten from 35 to 40 foot-pounds. No lubrication of any kind must be used on rubber bushings. Front suspension heights may be affected if the rear spring height varies more than ¾ inch on one side as compared with the other side. To check this, measure the vertical distance from the top of the rear spring main leaf to the underside of the frame side rail on both sides of the car. If these distances differ by more than

HANGER PIVOT BOLT Fig. 1—Spring Front Mounting

57x66

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

264

SHACKLES

BUSHINGS

57x67

Fig. 2—Spring Rear Mounting Fig. 4—Separating Spring Leaves

¾ inch, this is an indication that one of the rear springs may need replacing if condition is not due to a bent frame kick-up or an incorrectly welded spring saddle. Springs are expected to "bottom" under abnormal conditions particularly when road dips, railroad crossings and the like, are encountered at relatively high speeds. IT SHOULD BE REMEMBERED THAT ON CURRENT VEHICLES, IT IS PERFECTLY NORMAL FOR REAR SPRINGS TO SHOW SOME REVERSE ARCH, EVEN WITH NO LOAD, SO APPEARANCE ALONE

PIVOT BOLT WASHER BUSHING WASHER NUT

SHOULD NOT BE THE CAUSE FOR THE REJECTION OF A SPRING.

SERVICING SPRING INTERLINERS

To replace the interliners, proceed as follows: (1) Unload the rear springs by jacking up the rear end of the frame until the rear shock absorbers are fully extended.

SHACKLE NUT BUSHINGS

NUTS

SHACKLE

SHOCK ABSORBER BUSHING WASHER

NUT

CLIPS

" U " BOLTS

WASHER WASHERS NUT

NUTS

PLATE

BOLT

LOCKWASHERS 57x68

Fig. 3—Rear Spring Suspension (Exploded View)

265

SPRINGS (2) Remove the alignment clips from the springs. (3) Examine the spring interliners. If any of them are missing, or if any of them have lost their metal fasteners, they will have to be replaced. For replacement of these interliners, proceed as outlined below: (4) Pry out the metal fasteners directly beneath the spring leaf surface and slip out the old interliner, after separating the spring leaf to which the interliner was fastened from the next longer spring leaf. To effect this separation, pry open the slight gap between the leaves with a screwdriver until a tapered bar can be hammered in place between the screwdriver and the interliner as shown in Figure 4. Keep the tapered bar in place. (5) Clean the lower (grooved) surface of the longer spring leaf as far as the interliner makes contact. Use sandpaper wrapped around a flat file and scrub vigorously to remove any dirt or rust spots and to obtain smooth metallic surfaces to the left and right of the groove. Wipe off excess particles, including dirt in the groove itself, with a cleqn cloth. In order to reach between the leaves, open the gap by bearing down on the end of the tapered bar. (1) Slip the new interliner in place by opening the gap between the spring leaves again with the tapered bar and moving the interliner until the prongs of the metal fasteners are aligned with the holes in the shorter leaf, as shown in Figure 5. (2) With the tapered bar still in place, pry the prong end of each metal fastener through the hole in the spring leaf, as shown in Figure 6. (3) Remove the tapered bar which has remained between the leaves during these operations. The bar may be withdrawn while a screwdriver is placed alongside. Then the screwdriver may be pulled out, reversing the operation which was used to insert the bar in position. (4) Position the wrap-around alignment clip and

Fig. 6—Prying Fastener Prong Through Leaf

154x3631 Fig. 7—Preparing to Tighten Alignment Clip

57x505 Fig. 5—Positioning New Interl¡ner

Fig. 8—Rear Spring Interl¡ners (Front)

266

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL tighten retainer nut, as shown in Figure 7. Peen the end of the bolt over the nut so it will not loosen. The interliners used on the front of the rear springs are different than those on the rear, as shown in Figures 8 and 9. However, the same service procedures are used whether installing the front or rear interliners.

57x506 Fig. 9â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Rear Spring InterlÂĄners (Rear)

SHOCK ABSORBERS GENERAL INFORMATION The Dodge cars are equipped with Oriflow shock absorbers. Oriflow shock absorbers are double acting and provide a smoother, steadier gliding ride with greater comfort and stability, which is particularly noticeable at high speeds or on rolling or rough roads. The Oriflow shock absorbers permit the car's wheels to follow the road surfaces (and the springs to flex) without the harshness and jitter usually found in the conventional single action shock absorbers. OPERATION The springs permit the wheels to move up and down with respect to the body. However, springs alone cannot provide as smooth a ride as desired, because of energy stored up in the springs during rebound and compression. In an unrestrained spring, the energy is released suddenly and the spring continues to vibrate for a period of time. The shock absorber converts the energy of the spring into friction when the fluid in the shock absorber is forced to escape through the restricted passages, permitting the spring to return to its normal position without shock to the body, lack of stability, or passenger discomfort. In the Oriflow shock absorber, the resistance is built up slowly at the beginning of the stroke so as not to jolt the passengers. Then, this resistance is

increased to a maximum at a mid stroke and is tapered off to zero at the end of the movement. The major part of the dampening is accomplished at the high velocity mid-portion of the stroke where no jolt can originate. There can be little jolt at the beginning and at the end of the stroke because both the volocities of movement and the resistance offered by the shock absorber are low at those points. This simply means that the piston encounters minimum resistance at the beginning of the stroke and is gradually slowed down by increased resistance due to the fluid velocity through the orifices. In turn, the slow movement of the piston causes the fluid velocity to decrease and offer minimum resistance at the termination of the stroke. SERVICING THE ORIFLOW SHOCK ABSORBER The Oriflow shock absorber cannot be refilled or disassembled. Where servicing is required, the shock must be removed and a new unit installed. SHOCK ABSORBERS SHOULD ONLY BE REPLACED IF THEY HAVE LOST THEIR RESISTANCE IN ONE OR BOTH DIRECTIONS OR IF THEY DRIP OIL. EVIDENCE OF OIL MOISTURE IS NOT CAUSE TO REPLACE THEM AS THE SEAL MUST WEEP TO PREVENT SCORING.

PROPELLER SHAFTS A N D UNIVERSAL JOINTS

267

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Ball and Trunnion Universal Joint (Exploded View) Checking Propeller Shaft Alignment Cross and Roller Universal Joint (Exploded View) General Information Servicing Ball and Trunnion Universal Joints Servicing the Cross and Roller Universal Joint Servicing Universal Joint Dust Covers

Par.

Page

— 1 — — 2 4 3

268 270 269 268 270 272 270

POSSIBLE CAUSES J , Excessive grease in "U" joint dust boot. Loose trunnion pin. Worn universal bearings or needle bearings missing. Propeller shaft sprung or out of balance. Worn universal joint housings. (Note 1) Spring center bolt not in saddle. Undercoating. Loose companion flange nut. Bent companion flanges. Brake drum out of balance. Broken springs. Shifted springs. Weak springs. Pins not centered. Joint not seated in companion flanges. Thrust pad or bearing spacer missing. Companion flanges not aligned. Spring pads not welded at the same angle. Bent transmission or pinion flanges (check with dial indicator). Excessive propeller shaft runout. (Note 2) Sprung transmission main shaft and/or rear axle pinion (check with dial indicator). Rear springs not matched. (Note 3) Bent rear axle housing. Spring pads not welded to the rear axle housing at the same angle. (Note 4) Spring pads should be concave. Rear spring front hanger may not be welded to the frame in the correct position. (This can be checked by measurement). Rear frame section at kickup may be humped (due to the car being hit in the rear.) (Note 5) Improper lubrication. Propeller shaft flange bolts loose. Brinnelled joints.

Universal Joint Noise

CONDITIONS

Propeller Shaft Vibration

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• •

• • •

268

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL CENTERING BUTTON BUTTON SPRING BALL A N D ROLLERS THRUST WASHER

GREASE COVER

PROPELLER SHAFT ASSEMBLY

BUTTON SPRING LOCKWASHER

THRUST BUTTON

SHAFT BOLT

55x107 Fig. 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Ball and Trunnion Universal Joint (Exploded View)

HOTE 1. Propeller shafts should not be turned end for end as this only causes the joint to operate in an unworn section but does not correct the cause. NOTE 2. Runout should not exceed .015 inch total indicator reading. (This condition could be caused by the ends of the propeller shaft not being welded squarely into the tube.) NOTE 3. Both rear springs should have approximately the same amount of arch and contain the same number of leaves. NOTE 4. To check this condition remove the rear axle housing and check the position of the spring pads in relation to each other with a spirit level protractor. If the angle is not the same, correction can be made by using a tapered caster shim of the required thickness between the spring and the spring pad. NOTE 5. Usually the position of the rear spring shackle plates will give an indication of this condition. GENERAL INFORMATION The universal joints on the Dodge cars are of Both the ball and trunnion and the cross and roller type, as shown in Figures 1 and 3. The ball and trunnion type

is used on all 6-cylinder and V-8, models, on the front. The cross and roller type is used on all models at the rear location. The front universal joint on the Royal and Custom Royal is the conventional ball and trunnion (heavy duty) type. On the ball and trunnion type, the ball head of each joint is an integral part of the tubular propeller shaft and is covered by the joint body. The pin with ball and needle bearings at each end, extends through the ball on the shaft and rides in the channels in the body, controlling movement of the joint. This spring loaded and balanced joint is designated to absorb the thrust and torque of the drive line at each of the two joints. No adjustments are provided to compensate for wear of these joints, therefore, parts that show excessive wear must be replaced. The cross and roller type universal joint consists of a yoke, steel forged spider and four needle bearing assemblies. (See Figure 3.) The journals of the spider are drilled to provide a lubricant reservoir which is filled at the factory. Additional lubrication should not be required except for the 20,000-mile lubrication. The needle bearing assemblies are held in place by a metal retainer and are sealed against lubricant leakage or dirt entering. Two of the bearing assemblies are held in place by bolts, while the other two are held by retainers to the yoke on the propeller shaft.

269

PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

Fig. 2—Checking Rear Axle Angularity

ROLLER A N D BUSHING ASSEMBLY ROLLER A N D BLOCK ASSEMBLY PROPELLER SHAFT

BLOCK RETAINER

BUSHING RETAINER

BLOCK RETAINER

LOCKWASHER

mcQ ROLLER DUST SEAL DUST SEAL RETAINER CROSS ASSEMBLY BUSHING RETAINER ROLLER A N D BUSHING ASSEMBLY

SHAFT BOLT ROLLER A N D BLOCK ASSEMBLY ROLLER DUST SEAL DUST SEAL RETAINER

55x767 Fig. 3—Cross and Roller Universal Joint (Exploded View)

270

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES 1.

CHECKING PROPELLER SHAFT ALIGNMENT The included angle between the propeller shaft and the rear axle pinion in the vertical plane, or looking from the side of the propeller shaft, will remain at 1° to 3°, with 2° preferred. This angle can be masured as follows providing no extra weight is in the car: (1) Place a spirit level protractor against the back side of the rear axle pinion flange in a vertical position. (2) Adjust the spirit level until the bubble has centered in the sight glass. (3) After the spirit bubble has been centered, note (on the degree scale) the number of degrees the pinion flange tips down from the true vertical position. (See Figure 2.) (4) Place the spirit level protractor on top of, or directly below, the propeller shaft—parallel to the propeller shaft. (5) Adjust the spirit level until the bubble has centered in the sight glass. (6) After the spirit level bubble has been centered, note—on the degree scale—the number of degrees the propeller shaft tips up toward the front of the car from the true horizontal position. (See Figure 2.) (7) Add the number of degrees the rear pinion flange is away from the true vertical to the number of degrees the propeller shaft is away from the true horizontal. The total of these two will give the working angle of the rear universal joint, which should be between 5° to 7°.

Fig. 4—Installing Universal Joint Pin l - J ¡ g and locating bushing (Tool C-3313)

after assembling in the end of the propeller shaft. Each end of the trunnion pin should protrude the same distance, or with a variation of not more than .006 inch; otherwise the balance will be destroyed and cause vibration. Tool C-3313 as shown in Figure 4, will facilitate the removal, installation and centering of the trunnion pin. 3.

SERVICING BALL AND TRUNNION UNIVERSAL JOINTS To disassemble universal joint for repair or inspection of all component parts, refer to Figure 1, and proceed as follows: (1) Remove the joint body metal cover and gasket. (2) Slide body down on propeller shaft exposing the two centering buttons, and turn so that the body will not spring back over the bearings. Remove the centering buttons and springs from the ends of the trunnion pins. (3) Slide the two balls, rollers and thrust-washers off the trunnion pin. (4) Remove trunnion pin from propeller shaft ball, using Tool C-552, pressing pin through and out of shaft ball. At reassembly, remember that the endwise location of the trunnion pin can affect the runout and balance of the propeller shaft. The trunnion pin should be a very tight fit

SERVICING UNIVERSAL JOINT DUST COVERS The one piece synthetic rubber dust cover or boot may be installed without removing the universal joint pin. To replace universal joint dust covers that are damaged, remove the propeller shaft assembly from the car and clamp lightly in a vise. One end of the shaft should be resting on the bench in a horizontal position, then proceed as follows: (1) Disassemble joint, removing all parts except the body and pin. (2) Clean body, ballhead and pin thoroughly. (3) A complete coating of grease (or suitable rubber lubricant) must be smeared on the outside and inside of dust cover; and entire surface of the ballhead, pin and inside of body. (It i s v e r y i m p o r t a n t that this instruction b e followed.) (4) Stretch the lubricated boot or dust cover over the pin and ballhead, as shown in Figure 5. (5) Work the dust cover into the body a s far a s possible.

PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS UNIVERSAL JOINT CENTERING PIN

PROPELLER SHAFT

UNIVERSAL JOINT DUST COVER OR BOOT

UNIVERSAL JOINT BODY

271

49x910

Fig. 5—Sliding Cover over Ballhead and Pin USE NO TOOLS FOR THIS OPERATION (6) With the body in position so the pin can enter the ball channels, pull the body sharply over the pin, thereby forcing the dust cover into the body. (7) With one hand, grip the end of the dust cover protruding through the back end of body. With the other hand, pump the body back and forth, as shown in Figure 6, until the entire dust cover has passed through the body. (8) During the operation, the cone may have reversed itself inside the dust cover. Pull it out to its normal position. (9) Slide dust cover in the ballhead groove and over the neck of the body, then secure with clamps provided. (10) Insert l ½ ounces of heavy fibre universal joint grease in the joint and install the cover. (11) Install shaft, using new lock washers. Be sure and double check the flange bolts for tightness, to insure against grease leakage. Two types of dust covers are available, a s shown in Figure 7, and should be used as directed.

Fig. 6—Working Dust Cover Through Body

manufacture. Care should be exercised to maintain this condition of balance.

NOTE FLAT SURFACE. USE THIS TYPE DUST COVER. NOTE ANGULAR SURFACE. THIS TYPE DUST COVER CAN NOT BE INSTALLED THROUGH THE BODY.

WARNING Never attempt to use a needle like arrangement for forcing lubricant into the boot (or dust cover) on the universal joints. Excessive grease can be forced into the boot and cause the shaft to be thrown out of balance, or the lubricant can be lost through the injection hole during high speed operation. The joints must be disassembled and packed with correct type of grease. The universal joints, propeller shaft and hand brake drum are accurately balanced during the process of

49x912 Fig. 7—Dust Covers Available

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

272 4.

SERVICING THE CROSS AND ROLLER UNIVERSAL JOINT The universal joint shown in Figure 3 should not be disassembled except for the 20,000 mile lubrication, or unless they have been damaged or excessive wear exists between the cross and rollers. Before disassembling the cross and roller joint, mark the needle bearing assemblies, propeller shaft, cross spider and flange so that all parts, even though some may be new, can be re-assembled in their respective locations. To disassemble, refer to Figure 3, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the two bearing retainers that hold the assembly to the joke and the bolts at the flange. Push

one bearing assembly toward the spider, forcing out the* opposite bearing assembly. (2) Now reverse the procedure and push on the cross spider to remove other bearing assembly. (It may be necessary to remove 1 dust seal from cross spider to remove` spider from yoke.) Clean all parts using a suitable solvent, then inspect for damage and wear. (Clean out lubricant reservoirs in cross.) When reassembling the cross and roller universal joint, be sure and use new seals. Pack each reservoir in cross spider journals with Marfak "O" lubricant or equivalent.

STEERING CONTENTS

Par.

Page 272 279

278 273 274 277 276 274 276 275 275

MANUAL STEERING POWER STEERING ..

MANUAL STEERING SERVICE INFORMATION Adjustment of Front Wheel Bearings General Information Removal of Steering Wheel Servicing Idler Arm Servicing the Ball Joints Servicing the Steering Gear... Servicing the Steering Linkage Steering Gear Adjustments Steering Gear Alignment

8 7 6 2 5 4 3

Insufficient lubricant. Front tires underinflated. Tight steering gear asembly. Bent steering linkage. Improper front end alignment. Worn ball joints. Bent steering knuckle or suspension arm. Sagging torsion bar. Bent or twisted frame. Misalignment of steering column. Binding steering column bearing. Gear adjusted off the high point.

• I· • í

Wander or Weave

• 1

Low-Speed Shimmy

| High-Speed Shimmy

POSSIBLE CAUSES X ,

Loose Steering

CONDITIONS

Car Leads to One Side |

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

STEERING-MANUAL

273

Worn tie rod ends. Steering gear mounting loose. Worn sector shaft bushings or bearings. Loose or worn front wheel bearings. Bent steering cross shaft. Too much caster. Loose steering gear adjustment. Excessive lateral run out of wheels or tires. Wheel or tire wobble. Unequal inflation of tires. Whipping propeller shaft. Faulty shock absorbers. Incorrect toe-in adjustment. Road crown. Tight steering linkage. Loose spring shackles. Unequal or improper camber adjustment. Loose rear axle "U" bolts. Unequal tire wear. Overloading and underflation. Incorrect or unequal caster and steering axis inclination. Tight or dry wheel bearings. Incorrect camber adjustment. Dragging brake.

Low-Speed Shimmy

Wander or Weave

POSSIBLE CAUSES JL

High-Speed Shimmy

CONDITIONS IM-

Car Leads to One Side | Hard Steering |

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS (Continued)

í î í í

• •

• í • • • •

1· •

• •

• • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The type of steering linkage used on the Dodge cars is known as Symmetrical Idler Arm Steering. It consists of the pitman arm, drag link, idler lever, idler lever support bracket, tie rods (right and left) and the steering knuckle arms. In using this type of linkage, the steering gear arm link assembly (drag link) is supported at one end by the steering gear pitman arm and at the opposite end by the idler arm. The idler arm is mounted in a bushing and pivots on the idler lever support bracket which is welded to the right hand frame side rail. The steering tie rod assemblies are of equal length and are attached to the drag link with ball sockets. The outer ends of the tie rods are threaded for adjustment.

Steering Gear—(Three Tooth Roller and Worm) The steering gear used is of the worm and roller type. The steering worm is integral with the steering tube and is supported at each end by tapered roller bearings. The three tooth roller is attached to the sector shaft by means of a steel shaft and supported by two sets of ball bearings. The worm is adjusted for end play by means of shims inserted between the housing and housing cover. The sector shaft rotates in two bronze bushings pressed into the steering gear housing. The three tooth roller on the sector shaft is meshed with the worm, and, when the steering wheel is turned, the worm rotates the sector shaft and roller, moving the pitman arm which

274

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

is splined to the end of the sector shaft. Backlash between the sector shaft roller tooth and the worm is controlled by an adjusting screw that is threaded through the shaft and roller cover. The base end of the adjusting screw is engaged in a slot in the end of the sector shaft. Correct backlash can be obtained by turning the adjusting screw in or out as required. The steering wheel and pitman arm are splined to the steering tube and sector shaft respectively. Both the steering wheel and the pitman arm have a master serration to insure correct installation. The high point is the point of least clearance between the worm and roller and is at the midpoint of the worm and roller travel. An oil seal is installed in the bore of the steering gear housing at the outer end of the sector shaft to prevent oil leakage and to protect the steering unit against foreign matter. 1.

REMOVAL OF STEERING WHEEL (1) Disconnect battery. (2) Center the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. (3) Remove the two screws on the underside of the medallion and remove medallion. (4) Disconnect horn wire from terminal on travel plate and insulator. Remove horn ring, travel plate and insulator assembly, contact spring plate and ground plate. Push horn wire aside to make room for steering wheel puller pilot. (5) Remove steering wheel nut. Then, attach puller Tool C-612 and remove steering wheel. When installing the steering wheel, be sure that the master serrations are in alignment and the directional signal cancelling cam on the bottom of the wheel is inserted between the switch levers. (If so equipped.) 2. SERVICING THE STEERING GEAR The following procedure covers the removal of the steering gear assembly from the vehicle, for servicing, overhaul or repair. Removal (1) Jack up the car and remove left front wheel. (2) Remove front seat cushion and floor mat after sliding draft pad up on the column. (3) Remove steering column opening cover. (4) Disconnect the directional signal control wires (if so equipped). Tinfe will b e s a v e d if a l e n g t h of w i r e i s a t t a c h e d to t h e loose e n d s of control w i r e s before w i t h d r a w i n g through t h e jacket tube. This will e n a b l e a l l w i r e s to b e d r a w n back through t h e tube a t r e a s s e m b l y . B e sure to disconnect battery before tying w i r e s together.

(5) Remove the transmission shifting mechanism at the steering column (if so equipped). (6) Remove the bolts which hold the steering gear housing to the frame. (7) Disconnect the steering gear pitman arm with Tool C-3402. (8) Remove steering gear post bracket cap at the instrument panel. (9) Remove the steering gear assembly by withdrawing it up through opening in floor pan and out of car. Disassembly (1) Drain the lubricant from the housing. (2) Fasten the steering gear in a bench vise holding it at the frame bracket flange, with the steering column jacket horizontal. Loosen the column jacket clamp and pull the jacket off the steering gear housing. (3) Remove the roller tooth shaft adjusting lock nut and plate and the cover bolts. (4) Remove the sector shaft and shaft cover from the housing. (5) Pull the sector shaft bearing oil seal out of the housing. (6) Remove the cover and grease tube assembly with shims, from the bottom end of the steering gear housing. (7) Pull the steering tube and worm assembly out of the bottom end of the housing. (8) Remove the steering arm shaft bushings by means of a puller, if replacement is necessary. Assembly (1) When assembling, thoroughly clean the inside of the steering gear housing as well as the steering gear worm, steering arm shaft and bearings. D o not c o a t a n y p a r t s with l u b r i c a n t until a d j u s t m e n t s and assembly h a v e been completed. (2) If bushings have bee*i removed, press new bushings into place. (3) Install the steering arm shaft oil seal. (4) Refer to Figure 1, then assemble unit by repeating steps (in reverse order) that were used at disassembly. (5) Adjust pre-load of worm bearings and make necessary adjustments to roller tooth and worm a s described in Paragraph 10. Check t o s e e if adjustm e n t h a s b e e n m a d e correctly. This m a y b e d o n e with u s e of s c a l e to find p o u n d p u l l n e c e s s a r y to turn s t e e r i n g w h e e l . When p r o p e r l y a d j u s t e d t h e specified s c a l e r e a d i n g s h o u l d b e from % to 1 Âž p o u n d s p u l l . (6) Install lubricant in steering gear housing. When installing the steering jacket tube, care should be taken to see that the slot at the bottom of the tube is in alignment with the small raised point of the steering gear housing.

STEERING-MANUAL

275

PITMAN ARM LOCK NUT ADJUSTING SCREW

BEARING

BEARING GEAR SHAFT

WASHER

NUT

RETAINER CUP WASHER LUBE FITTING SPRING

SHIFT ROD

WASHER

HORN WIRE SHIFT TUBE

57x314

Fig. 1—Steering Gear (Sectional View)

3. STEERING GEAR ALIGNMENT Before an adjustment of the steering gear is attempted, be sure the body to frame bolts are tight and the spacers in place. With the body bolts tight# loosen the gear housing mounting bolts to allow the steering gear to move in relation to the frame. Tighten the mounting bolts to a torque of 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Next loosen the steering column bolts that hold column to instrument panel, to determine if the column shifts its position in relation to the support. (Should the column be binding up against the upper bracket, the compression of the column bracket rubber would indicate too much bind.) If necessary, shim the gear housing, as necessary, so that the column will be in a free position, then tighten bolts.

STEERING GEAR ADJUSTMENTS

Adjustments are provided for end play of the worm shaft bearings, end play of the steering arm shaft and mesh of the roller tooth with the steering worm. Adjustments may be made while the steering gear is assembled in the car, or during the process of assembling after having been disassembled for complete overhauling.

Adjusting Worm Bearings Procedure for adjusting worm bearings when the gear is assembled in the car is as follows: (1) Rotate the steering wheel to the extreme right or left and then turn back ¼ turn.

(2) Press a finger at the joint between the bottom of the steering wheel hub and shell. Have a helper shake the front wheels hard sidewise but not enough to turn the steering wheel. Any end play in the worm bearings can then be felt at the steering wheel hub. (3) If any excessive end play exists, disconnect the horn wire at the connector between the steering gear and the horn. (4) Remove the bolts which hold the grease retainer cover and tube at the bottom of the steering gear body. (5) Remove shims, between this cover and the steering gear body, of sufficient thickness to eliminate the end play in worm but not enough to cause binding when the cover is bolted tightly in place. Shims at this point are available in the following thicknesses: .003, .006, .011 and .025 inch. (6) Turn steering wheel from extreme right to left. If any stiffness exists, too many shims have been removed or the steering gear assembly is misaligned on the car. Check to see if adjustment has been made correctly. This may be done with use of scale to find pound pull necessary to turn steering wheel. When properly adjusted the specified scale reading should be from ¼ to 5 /8 pound pull.

Adjustment of Roller Tooth and Worm End play of the steering arm shaft and mesh of the roller

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

276

ADJUSTING SCREW LOCKNUT 34x146 54x694

p¡g. 3—Removing Tie End from Steering Knuckle Arm

Fig. 2—Making Roller Tooth and Worm Adjustment

tooth with the steering worm may be adjusted a s follows, either during assembly or in the car: (1) Using Puller Tool C-143, remove the steering gear pitman arm, (with the two tie rods assembled) from the steering arm shaft and install another arm. (2) Turn the steering wheel to mid-position. This is obtained by turning the wheel to the extreme right or left—then turning it to the opposite extreme counting the number of turns required—then turn back ½ the number of turns required for turning from one extreme to the other extreme. (3) With the steering wheel in mid-position move the steering gear arm back and forth to determine whether or not there is any backlash. There should be n o n e but if there is more than ‰ inch free movement at the end of the steering gear arm, mesh of the roller tooth and worm should be adjusted. (4) Loosen the roller shaft adjustment screw lock nut. (5) Tighten the roller tooth shaft adjustment screw (Figure 2) just enough to eliminate free play between the roller tooth shaft and worm but it must not bind. (6) Tighten the roller tooth shaft adjustment screw lock nut. Check to s e e if adjustment h a s b e e n m a d e correctly. This m a y b e d o n e with t h e u s e of s c a l e to find p o u n d pull n e c e s s a r y t o turn s t e e r i n g w h e e l . When p r o p e r l y adjusted t h e specified s c a l e r e a d i n g s h o u l d b e from % to 1 ¾ p o u n d s pull. (7) Reinstall the steering gear arm with tie rods. 5. SERVICING THE STEERING LINKAGE Refer to Figures 2 and 3. (1) Remove cotter pin and loosen nut on upper end of tie rod ball. (2) Insert a pry bar between tie rod and steering knuckle arm. Jar tie rod ball loose by driving on rear end of steering knuckle arm (Figure 3). Tie rod b a l l s are not removable from tie rod ends. If re-

p l a c e m e n t of either is n e c e s s a r y , the complete tie rod e n d a n d ball assembly should b e r e placed. (3) Loosen clamping bolt nut on tie rod end. (4) Unscrew tie rod end assembly from tie rod. When assembling tie rod ends to tie rod, be sure to thread ends evenly on tie rod to the nominal length listed in the Specifications. This is important to obtain proper positioning of the steering wheel with respect to the straight-ahead position of the front wheels. Care must be taken to make certain the clamping bolts are beneath the tie rods to prevent interference on turns. 6.

SERVICING THE BALL JOINTS (Upper and Lower) Should it become necessary to remove the ball joints for installation of new parts due to damage or wear, refer to Figure 4, then proceed as follows: Ball Joint Removal and Installation—(Upper) (1) Place a jack under a lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible. Raise wheel off floor. (2) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly. (3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 down over lower stud until tool rests on steering knuckle. Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against upper stud, as shown in Figure 4. Spread tool enough to place upper stud under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of k n u c k l e with tool a l o n e . (4) Remove tool, then disengage ball joint from knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and grease seal. (5) Remove the lubrication fitting from top of ball joint, (in order to install tool) then using Tool C-3560, as shown in Figure 6, unscrew ball joint from upper control arm. When installing new ball joint, it is very important that the ball joint threads engage

STEERING-MANUAL

277

BALL JOINT STEERING KNUCKLE

157x106

Fig. 4—Removing Upper Ball Joint from Knuckle

Fig. 5—Removing Lower Ball Joint from Knuckle

those of the control a r m s q u a r e l y . (6) With the lubrication fitting removed, screw the new ball joint squarely into control arm as far as possible by hand. (7) Using Tool C-3560, tighten until ball joint housing is seated on control arm. (8) Slide seal and dust cover up into position, over stud then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer and nut. Tighten to 100 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (9) Install lubrication fitting and lubricate ball joint, using a good grade of chassis lubricant. (10) Reinstall wheel and tire. Ball Joint Removal and Installation—(Lower) To remove or install the lower ball joint, refer to Figure 5, then proceed as follows: (1) Place jack under lower control arm as close to the wheel as possible but allowing enough clearance to remove lower ball joint. (2) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly. (3) Remove the upper and lower ball joint and nuts. Slide Tool C-3564 over upper stud until tool rests on steering knuckle. Turn threaded portion of tool, locking it securely against lower stud, as shown in Figure 5. Spread tool enough to place lower stud under pressure, then rap knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of k n u c k l e with tool a l o n e . (4) Remove tool, then disengage ball joint from knuckle. Remove ball joint dust cover and seal. (5) Using Tool C-3560, as shown in Figure 6, unscrew ball joint from lower control arm and remove. W h e n i n s t a l l i n g n e w b a l l joint, it is v e r y important that the b a l l joint t h r e a d s e n g a g e those of the control a r m s q u a r e l y . (6) Screw ball joint into control arm as far as possible

UPPER CONTROL ARM STEERING KNUCKLE

BALL JOINT

57x73

Fig. 6—Removing or Installing Ball Joint (Control Arm) by hand. (7) Using Tool C-3560, tighten until ball joint housing is seated on control arm. Do not u s e m o r e t h a n 1 0 0 foot p o u n d s t o r q u e or t h r e a d s m a y b e stripped. (8) Side seal and dust cover into position, over stud then position stud in steering knuckle. Install washer and nut. Tighten to 135 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. (9) Lubricate the ball joint, using a good grade of chassis lubricant. (10) Reinstall wheel and tire.

SERVICING IDLER ARM

Should it become necessary to remove the idler arm because of bushing failure, refer to Figure 7, then proceed as follows: (1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead position.

278

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

RUBBER BUSHING BRACKET

2-1/4 INCH BETWEEN CONTACT SURFACES

THIS CONTACT SURFACE MUST BE SMOOTH

57x321

Fig. 7—Idler Arm (Sectional View)

(2) Remove the cotterpin and nut that holds the link end ball joint stud in the idler arm. Insert a pry bar between link and idler arm. Jar stud loose from arm bydriving on end of arm. Separate link and arm. (3) Remove the cotterpin and nut that attaches the idler arm to the frame bracket. Remove mounting bolt, then slide idler arm out of bracket. If a new bushing is required, install a new idler arm and bushing assembly. The component parts are not serviced separately. (4). Before installing arm, be sure the bushing contact surface on the bracket is smooth. If burrs are present, especially around the mounting bolt hole (top and bottom), remove with a file. (5) Measure the width of bracket. The distance between bushing contact surfaces should be 2¼ inches. If necessary, bend bracket to obtain this measurement. When reinstalling idler arm, protect the ends of the bushing by two pieces of shim stock slightly larger than diameter of bushing. Sandwich the ends of bushing between protectors, then slide into position, and remove protectors. (This will protect bushing ends from damage from sharp edges of mounting bolt hole). (6) Coat mounting bolt with lubriplate then slide through bracket and bushing. Install nut and tighten to 60 foot-pounds. Install cotterpin. ( A g a i n b e s u r e wheels are in the straight ahead position before tightening nut). This will prevent over travel stress of the bushing which would cause premature bushing failure, and prevent lead to one side. 8.

ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS To adjust the front wheel bearings, refer to Figure 8, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove hub cap and grease cap, then jack up front of car. (2) Remove cotterpin that retains nut lock. Remove nut lock. (3) Using an inch-pound torque wrench, tighten ad-

STEER1NG KNUCKLE

x325

F¡g. 8—Installing Nut Lock

justing nut to 90 inch-pounds, while rotating wheel. Remove torque wrench. (4) Selectively position the nut lock over adjusting nut so that the spindle cotterpin hole is in approximate alignment with one set of slots in nut lock, as shown in Figure 8, then back off (to next slot) adjustment (without removing nut lock) until the slots are aligned with cotterpin hole). Install cotterpin, grease cap and hub cap. Remove jack. Removing and Installing Front Wheel Bearing Races Should it become necessary to remove the front wheel bearing races, remove drum then drive race out of drum as follows: (1) Remove inner oil seal and bearing. Invert drum, then using a suitable drift, drive the outer bearing race from the drum. (Driving slots are machined in drum for this operation.) (2) Again invert the drum and drive out the inner bearing race. (3) Clean the drum and bearings, using a suitable solvent then blow dry with compressed air. (Do n o t spin bearings with air pressure.) Check bearings for pits or brinelling. Install new bearings as required. When installing new bearing races, be sure and start race evenly in drum. Drive down into position alternately, using (if possible) the old race. Be sure race is seated evenly. Pack inner bearing with short fibre grease, then install in drum. Install n e w grease seal. Slide drum over spindle. Pack outer b e a r i n g with grease and slide over spindle and into drum. Install thrustwasher and nut, then adjust bearing as described above.

POWER STEERING

279

POWER STEERING CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Adjusting the Power Steering Unit General Information Installation of Steering Gear (In Car) Removal of Steering Unit from Vehicle Replacing Steering Gear Shaft Oil Seal (Unit Mounted in Car) Servicing the Power Steering Unit

3 — 5 1 4 2

294 280 296 282 295 282

Vehicle Attempts to Turn Unless Force Is Applied to Hold Steering Wheel

Hydraulic Fluid Leaks (Location)

Hard Steering (Low or No Pump Pressure)

Hard Steering (In One Direction Only)

| |

Noisy Steering Unit

Noisy Pump Hard Steering (Both Directions)

• • • • • • • •

Poor Recovery on Turns

Leak in steering system. Pump belt slipping or broken. Fluid level low. Steering gear linkage not lubricated. Tire pressure low, or unequal. Relief and flow control valve unit stuck. Flow control valve spring weak or broken. Relief valve spring weak or broken. Rotors not running. Rotor worn. Pump body or cover worn. Insufficient fluid flow in system. At hose adaptors. At pump body. Between gear and worm housings. Gear shaft oil seal or cover "O" ring. Valve control seal. Housing head seal. Worm shaft seal, top of housing. End cover, gear housing. Control valve adjusted incorrectly. Bind in steering column or gear. Improper front end alignment. Balls in worm connector fit too tight or bind. Bind in steering knuckles. Worm bearing adjustment too tight. Valve rod "Ö" seal rings. Restrictor valve.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

" ^

Steering Wheel Continues to Turn

CONDITIONS

Seeping at Vent Hole

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

•

• •

• • •

•

• •

•

• • •

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

280

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Cont¡nued)

CONDITIONS £ S

! POSSIBLE CAUSES

¡l

Restricted hoses. Restricted passage to valve control seal. Sector rack too loose. Sector rack too tight. One piston "O" ring or seal broken. Worm bearing adjustment too loose.

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION All components of the power steering gear have been fitted into an elongated, tubular-shaped housing and have been concentrically located about the axis of the steering column. The unit fastens to the steering column at the underside of the instrument panel and extends down through the dash panel and is bolted to the frame sidemember. Whereas the mechanical steering system normally uses worm-and-roller action, the Coaxial power steering unit incorporates two basic gear mechanisms; a worm and worm connector and a rack and sector gear. The worm and worm connector act in a manner similar to a bolt and nut assembly; rotation of the worm causes linear (axial) motion of the worm connector. Fastened to the worm connector, in succession, are an upper piston rodƒ a piston, and a lower piston rod, all concentric to the steering column axis. (This arrangement provides a means for adding power assistance to the system.) A rack, machined in the lower portion of the lower piston rod, meshes with a sector gear. This combination produces rotation of the steering gear arm and thereby actuates the steering linkage. The hydraulic system of the gear consists of doubleacting piston, a valve (which fits inside the piston), and a hydraulic reaction reaction chamber (which gives the driver the "feel" of the road). Axial positioning of the valve directs high pressure

oil to one side or the other of the double-acting piston. At the same time, valve movement opens an oil return line which carries oil from the low pressure side of the piston to the oil reservoir. The direction of oil flow (which depends upon the direction of steering wheel rotation), is such that hydraulic force is added to the drivers effort and is transmitted through the rack and sector gear to the steering gear arm. Other components of the hydraulic system are, a

STEERING COLUMN BRACKET STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY

Fig. 1—Steering Column Installed

BEARING SEAL — SNAP RING

SNAP RING ROD ADAPTER SPRING

GASKET

PLUNGER

BUSHING

PISTON RING " O " RING CONNECTOR

SNAP RING

LOCK

SEAL " O " RING THRUST BEARING

" O " RING

PISTON AND ROD

HEAD

¾ m

m 70

THRUST BEARING

WORM BEARING

SEAL' WASHER' 57x363

Fig. 2—Coaxial Power Steering (Exploded View)

282

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

belt-driven oil pump with a pressure relief valve and flow control valve, and a filter with the oil reservoir. The flow control valve limits the oil flow in a predetermined maximum (2 gallons per minute) and thus holds the horsepower required to drive the oil pump to a minimum.

REMOVAL OF STEERING UNIT FROM VEHICLE

(1) Remove two screws from horn ring ornament and remove ornament from steering wheel. (2) Disconnect horn wire, remove three horn ring screws and remove horn ring. Remove front seat cushion. (3) Remove steering wheel nut and remove wheel with Tool C-612. Remove turn signal lever. (4) Remove steering column to instrument panel bracket and shroud, as shown in Figure 1. (5) Loosen steering column jacket clamp screws. (6) Raise front of car. Remove cotter key and nut from the drag link to Pitman arm ball joint. Disengage drag link from Pitman arm. (7) Remove Pitman arm to gear shaft retaining nut and pull Pitman arm with Tool C-3402. (8) Loosen three gear housing to frame attaching bolts and lower front of car to floor. (9) Pull jacket from steering shaft. (10) Remove floor mat retaining plate, and remove rubber dust pad. Remove access plate. (11) Place a large pan underneath unit, then disconnect pressure and return hoses and drain gear assembly by slowly rotating steering wheel until all oil is expelled from unit. Fasten disconnected ends of hoses above oil level in reservoir to prevent further loss of oil and cap ends to prevent any foreign matter from entering. (12) Remove the steering gear attaching bolts, then lift the steering gear assembly up through the opening in the floor pan.

2. SERVICING THE POWER STEERING UNIT Precautions During Disassembly and Assembly Cleanliness through the entire disassembly and assembly cannot be over-emphasized. Unit should be thoroughly cleaned in a suitable solvent when removed from vehicle. When disassembling, each part should be placed in the solvent, washed, then dried by compressed air. Careful handling of parts must be exercised to avoid the occurrence of nicks and burrs. Crocus cloth may be used to remove small nicks or burrs provided it is used carefully. When used on valve spool, use extreme care not to round off the sharp edge portion. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type of valve, it helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and bore, thus reducing the possibilities of sticking.

HOUSING FILLER PLUG

HOSE FITTING

WORM HOUSING COUPLING GEAR HOUSING HOLDING FIXTUR

57x399

Fig. 3—Steering Unit Mounted in Holding Fixture

57x400 Fig. 4—Removing Coupling

Remove and discard all "O" seal rings, and seals, using new ones lubricated with lubriplate when reassembling. To disassemble the Power Steering Unit for repair or overhaul, refer to Figure 2, then proceed as follows:

Removal of Worm Housing from Gear Housing (1) Drain the lower portion of the steering gear through the pressure and return connections, by turning the steering tube coupling from one extreme of travel to the other. Remove the worm housing filler plug, using a ¾ 6 inch alien wrench. Drain the upper housing. (2) Bolt the holding fixture C-3323 to the power steering unit, then mount the fixture in a vise, as shown in Figure 3. (3) Remove the bolt and washer that attaches the coupling to the worm shaft. Slide Tool C-3392 down between the housing and the coupling, then rap sharply with a hammer, forcing the coupling off end of shaft, as shown in Figure 4. (4) Insert a screwdriver under the lip of the worm housing oil seal, then gently pry seal out away from housing and slide off end of worm shaft.

POWER STEERING TOOL

SPLINED

DIAMETER

57x401

Fig. 5—Tools for Removing or Installing Adjusting Nut

57x402

F¡g. 6—Removing or Installing Bearing Adjusting Nut

283

file a n d r e l i e v e t h r e a d s ( b e y o n d bottom) i n 4 e q u a l l y s p a c e d positions. T h e n t h r e a d nut on shaft to c l e a r t h r e a d s . R e m o v e a n d c l e a n nut s e v e r a l times d u r i n g o p e r a t i o n . (6) Now, slide the outer bearing race, thrust bearing inner race and spacer out of the housing, as shown in Figure 7. (7) Remove the bolts and washers that attach the worm housing to the gear housing. Slide the worm housing up and away from gear housing, exposing the worm connector, as shown in Figure 8. Lightly tap the worm housing to overcome the interference fit of the "O" seal rings, between the worm housing and the housing head. Remove the "O" seal rings from the head and discard. (8) Remove the bearing races, thrust bearing and spacer (with needle bearings) from the worm housing.

The spacer and needle bearing assembly are serviced as an assembly only. The bearing races should be smooth, without pits or scratches, and the wear pattern should be uniform around the race. The rollers of the bearings should be smooth, highly polished and free to turn in their retainers. The needle bearing rollers in the lower spacer should also be free to roll in the cage. The spacers should fit flat against the shoulders in the worm housing and the machined surfaces at each end of the housing must be smooth, without nicks or burrs. Replace all parts that show signs of wear.

BEARING RACE BEARING SPACER

" O " SEAL RING

THRUST BEARING

57x403

LOCK / / NUT /

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Bearing Race, Bearing and Spacer

GEAR HOUSING

" O " SEAL RING

57x404

(5) Using a thin blade screwdriver, pry the locking collar portion of the bearing adjusting nut out of the keyway in the worm shaft. Slide Tool C-332OA over the worm shaft and down over nut. Position Tool C-3319 over shaft end and engage serrations, as shown in Figure 5. Holding the worm shaft stationary, loosen the bearing adjusting nut, as shown in Figure 6. Remove tools, and then remove the adjusting nut. Discard the adjusting nut, use new nut at reassembly. CAUTION: U s e e x t r e m e c a r e so a s not to d a m a g e t h r e a d s of shaft or t o r q u e r e a d i n g will b e affected a t adjustment. B e sure n e w n u t t h r e a d s on shaft f r e e l y . To m a k e a t h r e a d c h a s e r n u t of t h e o l d o n e , u s e a 3 c o r n e r e d

Fig. 8—Removing or Installing Worm Housing WORM SHAFT SHOULDER OUT SPACER AND BEARING BEARING RACE

CONNECTOR HOUSING HEAD

LOCK

THRUST BEARING BALL GUIDE 57x405

" O " SEAL RINGS

Fig. 9—Worm Connector Assembly

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

284

HOUSING HEAD CONNECTOR NUT, TOOL

TO l

° / . // PISTON ROD NUT

57x242

57x407

Fig. 10—Worm Connector Nut Removing or Installing Tools

Fig. 12—Removing or Installing the Piston Rod Nut RETAINER

Removing the Worm Connector and Valve Control To remove the worm connector and valve control assembly, refer to Figure 9, then proceed as follows: (1) Pry the worm connector nut lock from the openings in the connector, then slide the lock up on the connector far enough to clear the nut. (2) Slide Tool C-3321 over the rails of the connector, as shown in Figure 10. Now, rotate the steering gear shaft and raise the connector far enough to install Tool C-3326. Move the connector down to hold Tool against the housing head to keep Tool from slipping out of nut. Remove the worm connector nut, as shown in Figure 11. (3) Slide the worm connector assembly from the upper piston rod. Now, remove the valve adjusting cup from the inside of the worm connector. (4) Pry the retaining portion of the piston rod nut lock from the indents in the nut. Remove the lock. (Use

care when removing lock so as not to damage the control spacer.) Install Tool C-3328 in the indents CONNECTOR RAIL

HOUSING HEAD NUT

57x406

Fig. 11—Removing or Installing Worm Connector Nut

UPPER PISTON ROD

CONNECTOR 'NUT

_ _ FfF¶¾;,I,.

57x408

Fig. 13—Removing Spacer and Seal Assembly and Nut

in the nut, then remove the nut, as shown in Figure 12. (5) Slide the spacer and seal assembly and the nut from the valve rod, as shown in Figure 13. Now, slide the housing head off the end of the valve rod. The piston rod nut must be smooth on both ends. The nylon insert nut must be tight in the valve adjusting cup. The flange inside the connector nut should be smooth and the housing head should be free from nicks or burrs. The inner bore of the valve control spacer should show little or no wear from the retainers, and the edges should be smooth; free from nicks or burrs. If nicks or burrs are present, remove with crocus cloth spread over a flat surface. The valve control spacer is serviced in two different lengths, with a .001 inch differential. The spacer must be exactly the same length as the space between the piston rod nut and the shoulder of the piston rod. With the nut tightened, the spacer should roll freely in the groove, barely holding its own weight. Disassembling the Worm Connector When disassembling the worm connector, care should be taken so as not to bottom the worm shaft in either direction. Bottoming the worm shaft may damage the ball guides, which

POWER STEERING will cause either a tight or rough operating worm. (1) Remove the bolts and lock washers that attach the ball guide clamp to the connector. Remove clamp, then carefully remove the guide (with balls), as shown in Figure 14. Do not lose a n y of t h e balls. T h e w o r m balls a r e a select fit a n d if o n e or more is d a m a g e d , it is r e c o m m e n d e d that a n e w complete set of 4 0 balls b e installed. (2) With the worm connector held upside down, carefully remove the remaining balls by turning the worm in and out. Be sure and count the balls which were removed from the connector, so that the same number can be installed at reassembly. (3) Slide worm out of connector, then remove the nut lock by sliding off connector. The guide rails on the connector should be free of nicks or burrs and slide freely on the guides in the housing. The ball track on the worm should be smooth, without pitting or roughness. The balls should show no signs of brinelling, pitting or flaking. Check the fit of the adjusting cup and spacer in the connector, if loose, install CONNECTOR W O R M SHAFT

BALL GUIDE

BOLTS A N D LOCKWASHERS

57x409

Fig. 14—Removing or Installing the Ball Guide

Fig. 15—Removing the Gearshaft Oil Seal

285

COVER " O " SEAL RING

NEEDLE BEARING

ADJUSTING SCREW

GEAR HOUSING

EARSHAFT

57x411

Fig. 16—Gearshaft Cover Removed new spacer; adjusting cup, or both. (Install spacer and adjusting cup in connector, then install nut. Tighten securely. Use torque wrench and socket on elastic nut to check fit.) Disassembly of Gear Housing (1) Remove the lock nut from the gearshaft adjusting screw. (2) Remove the gearshaft oil seal snap ring, using a pair of pliers. Slide the threaded portion of Tool C-3350 over end of gear shaft and down against seal. Install the nut on the threaded portion of shaft. Turn complete Tool until the Tool has entered seal. (3) Install the half collars and retainer to lock the tool together. Now, back off on the nut and pull seal out of the housing, as shown in Figure 15. Remove Tool. (4) Remove the bolts and washers that attach the gearshaft adjusting cover to the housing. (Two bolts have sealing washers. The bolt holes are tapped through to the inside of housing.) Discard sealing washers. (5) To remove the gearshaft cover, turn the adjusting screw into the cover, using a screwdriver until flush. Now, spin cover off adjusting screw and remove from housing, a s shown in Figure 16. Remove and discard the cover "O" seal ring. (6) Align the gear on the gearshaft to clear the opening in the housing, then, using a fibre hammer, rap lightly on end of gearshaft. Slide gear and shaft out of housing, as shown in Figure 17. (7) Using Tool C-3229 pliers, remove the adjusting screw retaining snap ring, as shown in Figure 18. Slide adjusting screw, " O " seal ring and retaining washer from the end of gearshaft. Remove thrust washer from seat in end of shaft. Discard the "O" seal ring. The gear shaft should be free of pits, scores or signs of excessive wear in the seal and bearing contact areas. The gear teeth should be smooth and show a good con-

286

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL ADJUSTING SCREW

UPPER PISTON ROD

PISTON LOWER PISTON ROD

57x415

Fig. 20—Removing Lower Piston Rod Snap Ring

57x412 Fig. 17—Removing the Gearshaft

PISTON GEARSHAFT

ADJUSTING SCREW LOWER PISTON ROD SNAPRING

PISTON VALVE 57x416

57x413

Fig. 18—Removing or Installing the Adjusting Screw Snap Ring

Fig. 21—Removing or Installing the Lower Piston Rod

PISTON UPPER PISTON ROD

PISTON

GEAR HOUSING

PISTON UPPER ROD

PISTON VALVE

X "O" SEAL RING' Fig. 19—Removing the Piston and Rod Assembly

VALVE ROD

57x417

Fig. 22—Removing the Piston Valve

tact pattern. The needle bearings in the cover should be smooth and rotate freely in the race. Disassembly of Piston and Rods

Place a suitable container under the gear housing to catch the trapped oil, then remove the piston assembly and rods from the housing and disassemble as follows: (1) Grasp the upper piston rod firmly, then twist slightly and pull piston and lower rod straight out of the housing, as shown in Figure 19. Do not permit lower piston rod to touch piston bore to prevent gouging.

(2) Remove the snap ring that holds the lower rod in the piston, using snap ring pliers C-3106, as shown in Figure 20. (3) Carefully work the lower rod out of the piston, to expose the piston valve, as shown in Figure 21. Remove and discard the rod "O" seal ring. (4) Slide the piston valve out of piston, as shown in Figure 22. U s e c a r e s o a s not to b e n d t h e v a l v e rod d u r i n g or after r e m o v a l . (5) Support the piston assembly (in order to protect

POWER STEERING

287 UPPER PISTON ROD

" O " SEAL RING

VALVE ROD " O " RING

m„

Ä Ä , 53x823

Fig. 26—Removing Valve Rod "O" Rings

£57x418

Fig. 23—Driving Pin into Upper Piston Rod PISTON UPPER PISTON ROD

of the upper rod, then using a paper clip, remove the valve rod "O" seal rings from each end of the upper rod, as shown in Figure 26. Remove and discard the "O" seal rings (piston rings) from each end of the piston. (8) Using a ‰"—14 (standard thread) bolt, remove the restrictor valve from the lower piston rod. Thread bolt into valve, finger tight. Clamp head of bolt in a vise, then rap on end of rod, using a fibre hammer. Slide valve out of rod, as shown in Figure 27. To disassemble valve, insert a stiff wire (paperclip) into pin hole and push out retaining pin. Remove plunger and spring. RESTRICTOR VALVE

LOWER PISTON ROD

57x419

Fig. 24—Removing Upper Piston Rod PAPER CLIP OR WIRE BOLT

PISTON PIN

" O " RING LAND

57x421

Fig. 27—Removing the Restr¡ctor Valve " O " SEAL RING

`<m:``'$

UPPER PISTON ROD OIL PASSAGE O" SEAL RING 57x420

Fig. 25—Removing Piston Pin from Upper Rod

seal ring lands) using a soft wood block, then drive the piston pin into the upper rod using a ¼ inch round drift, as shown in Figure 23. Using snap ring pliers C-3106, remove the upper piston rod retaining snap ring. (6) Carefully work the upper piston rod out of piston, as shown in Figure 24. Insert a wire (or paper clip) down through the piston pin, then bend inserted end over (through oil passage hole in rod.) Pull piston pin out of piston rod, as shown in Figure 25. Discard "O" seal ring. (7) Remove the large "O" seal ring from the base

PISTON 57x254

Fig. 28—Checking Valve Rod

The restrictor valve plunger should slide freely in the valve body and show no signs of sticking. The lower piston rod should be free of burrs or scratches. The upper rod should be unmarked in the seal contact area.

•

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

288

TOOL

5 INCH POUNDS OR BETTER

GEAR HOUSING 57x422

Fig. 31—Removing Lower Piston Rod Oil Seal

plug in the bottom of the gear housing from the cylinder 57x369i Fig. 29—Testing Torque of Adjusting Cup on Valve Rod

The valve port rings inside the piston should have a bright, highly polished surface with sharp edges. The valve rod should slide freely through the "O" seal rings. To check the valve rod, insert valve in piston until centered. Lay piston on flat surface, then place Tool C-3333 under valve rod, as shown in Figure 28. Rotate piston slowly. If rod is bent, the distance from the tool will vary. The rod must be tight in valve. If loose, install new assembly. The adjusting cup should grip the threads of the valve rod tightly. To check, install cup on end of rod, then install Tool C-3380, as shown in Figure 29. The minimum torque reading should not be less than 5 inch pounds. The piston "O" ring grooves should be free from nicks or burrs, with no sharp edges around the piston pin hole. Disassembling the Gear Housing

side. Do not r e m o v e p l u g by p u n c h i n g h o l e a n d flipping out. This method will d a m a g e alumin u m housing. (2) Using a thin blade screwdriver, pry out the lower piston rod thrust pad from the gear housing. (Refer to Figure 30). (3) Remove the lower piston rod oil seal from the housing, using Tool C-3450. To remove seal, insert the disc end of tool through the opening in end of housing, locating the disc between the seal and the housing shoulder. Using the offset (curved) section as a fulcrum, force the disc between seal and shoulder, until retainer screw almost contacts the seal, (viewed from opposite end). Drive seal out of housing, using a hammer, as shown in Figure 31. (4) Inspect the steering gear shaft needle bearings in the gear housing, for broken or rough needles. Do not r e m o v e bearings unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. (5) If necessary to remove bearings, install Tool

(1) Using a suitable blunt drift, drive out the welsh

HOUSING

57x253

Fig. 30—Lower Piston Rod Thrust Pad

57x371 Fig. 32—Removing Upper Needle Bearing

POWER STEERING

289

TOOL

HOUSING

TOOL

HOLDING FIXTURE (TOOL)

57x370

Fig. 33—Removing Lower Needle Bearing

C-3332, as shown in Figure 32 and 33 and pull the upper and lower needle bearings out of the housing. Inspect the bearing surface of the lower piston rod thrust pad if scratched, install new one. Check the piston cylinder walls for scoring, nicks or scratches. All machined surfaces of the housing should be smooth and free from nicks or burrs. The steering gear unit has now been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning, inspection and the replacement of worn or damaged parts. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Be sure and use new "O" seal rings and seals at reassembly. Coat seals and "O" seal rings with lubriplate at installation. To reassemble the power steering unit, refer to Figure 2, then proceed as follows: Assembling the Gear Housing (1) Remove the garter spring from a new piston rod seal, then install seal on driver C-3331. (Lip of seal toward driver). Slide pilot SP-1927 through seal and into driver until bottomed. Now insert assembly into housing (keeping tool centered in bore), as shown in Figure 34. Drive seal into position, then remove tool. Carefully work garter spring into seal with the aid of two long shank screwdrivers. (If Tool C-3331-A is used, it will not be necessary to remove garter spring.) (2) Slide the gear shaft lower needle bearing (if removed) over pilot of Tool C-3333, (lettered end against driver) then insert into housing. Drive needle bearing into housing, as shown in Figure 35. The outer end of bearing should be V/ÍVt inches from end of housing when properly seated. (3) Slide the gearshaft upper needle bearing (if removed) over pilot of Tool C-3333, (lettered end against driver) then insert into housing. Drive needle bearing

57 x 251

Fig. 34—Installing Lower Piston Rod Seal

57x423 Fig. 35—Installing Gearshaft Lower Needle Bearing GEAR HOUSING

I57x424[ Fig. 36—Installing Gearshaft Upper Needle Bearing

into housing, as shown in Figure 36. The outer end of bearing should be flush with end of bore when properly seated. (4) Place the lower piston rod thrust pad in position, (refer to Figure 30) align shoulder with recess in housing and press into position.

290

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

g»¾j-—LOWER OR UPPER

PLUNGER

P¶l

SPRING VALVE

HOLES NOT RESTRICTED BY SNAP RING \

I PI

!•«

PISTON ROD

ENDS OF

wWBBk~~Ž*'SNk? RING

PISTON

LOWER PISTON ROD

»JK

\W¡Br ¶^#

CLEAR OF

HOlES

57 x 248

Fig. 37—Restr¡ctor Valve (Exploded View)

57x427

Fig. 40—Snap Ring Correctly Installed UPPER PISTON ROD

' O " SEAL RING

57x425

F¡g. 38—Installing Valve Rod Upper "O" Seal Ring UPPER PISTON ROD

"O" SEAL RING

^S==ÍS-—

57X426

F¡g. 39—installing Valve Rod Lower "O" Seal Ring

piston rod. Carefully slide the rod into the piston, aligning the piston pin holes. (4) Slide a new "O" seal ring over piston pin, then insert into opening in piston. Be sure the pin is perfectly straight, then carefully tap into piston, using a ¼ inch drift. The pin should be flush in piston. (5) Using pliers C-3106, install the retaining snap ring (bevelled side out). Be sure that the e n d s of the snap ring do not obstruct an oil passage, as shown in Figure 40. Any obstruction at this point will affect steering performance. It may be necessary to tap the snap ring, using a brass drift, to be certain it is fully expanded in the groove. (6) Slide the valve and rod into the piston and upper rod, working carefully past the "O" seal rings previously installed, as shown in Figure 41. B e careful not to b e n d t h e rod. (7) Slide a new "O" seal ring into position in the groove on the bottom of the lower piston rod. Carefully slide rod into piston and down into position. Using pliers C-3106, install the retaining snap ring (bevelled side out). Be sure the ends of the snap ring do not obstruct an oil passage, (refer to Figure 40). An obstruction at this point will affect steering performance. (Tap the snap ring using a brass drift, to be certain it is fully expanded in the groove).

Assembling the Piston and Rods (1) Slide the restrictor valve spring and plunger into valve body, as shown in Figure 37. Secure with pin, then install assembly into the lower piston rod bore. (Refer to Figure 27). Press in until flush with end of bore. Check the plunger for free operation in the valve. (2) Install two new valve rod "O" seal rings in each end of the upper control rod, as shown in Figures 38 and 39. (Be sure the "O" rings are seated evenly in the grooves.) (3) Coat a new "O" seal ring with lubriplate, then slide into position in the groove on the end of the upper

PISTON ASSEMBLY

VALVE ASSEMBLY

53x819

. 41—Installing Valve in Piston

POWER STEERING TOOL

291

GEARSHAFT EVENLY SPACED

57x255 Fig. 42—Installing Piston Assembly

(8) Install new "O" seal rings on each end of piston, then locate Tool C-3344 on the gear housing (around cylinder bore). Coat Tool C-3554 with lubriplate then place over teeth of the lower piston rod. Slide piston and rod assembly into cylinder bore, as shown in Figure 42. Guide seal protector Tool C-3554 out of lower housing (through cover opening), as piston is being pushed into cylinder. As piston is being installed, align teeth on lower rod for meshing with teeth on gearshaft. Remove tools. Installing the Gear Shaft (1) Slide the gearshaft adjusting screw thrust washer into position in end of shaft, then install adjusting screw and retaining washer. Install snap ring, using pliers C-3229. (Refer to Figure 18). (2) Install Tool C-3401 over end of adjusting screw and slide down until seated. Now, slide new "O" seal ring over Tool and into groove of adjusting screw, a s shown in Figure 43. (This operation may be done before installing screw). (3) Install the sector gear to mesh with the rack, as shown in Figure 44. Seat shaft to mesh teeth. Check the gear timing, using the steering pitman arm to rotate gearshaft. Full piston travel must be approximately 2 inches. Failure to follow the timing instructions will result in a broken gear housing.

LOWER PISTON ROD (RACK)

Fig. 44—Gear Tooth Alignment

TOOL

57×25Ü

F¡g. 45—Installing Gearshaft Oil Seal

GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTING SCREW

57x259 F¡g. 46—Removing Oil Seal Protector Sleeve

TOOL " O " RING

53x867

Fig. 43—Installing Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw "O" Ring

(4) Place a new gear shaft oil seal (suitably coated with lubriplate) lip side down, on a piece of clean paper. Carefully slide the tapered end of sleeve (part of Tool C-3350) in seal and slide seal back approximately ¼ inch on sleeve. (5) Slide sleeve and seal over shaft (lip of seal toward housing) until seal contacts bore of housing. Now, slide adaptor over sleeve, followed by coupling nut. Install

292

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL VALVE CONTROL SPACER\

TOOL VALVE CONTROL SPACER SEAL

53x814 53x834 Fig. 47—Installing Upper Piston Rod Seal

seal in housing by turning nut on shaft threads until shoulder of adapter contacts housing, as shown in Figure 45. Remove nut and adaptor. (6) Wrap a new piece of friction tape around the sleeve to provide a firm grip. Slide sleeve off gearshaft using a twisting motion, as shown in Figure 46. Do not use any tool to remove sleeve. Install oil seal retaining snap ring. (7) Install a new " O " seal ring in the groove on adjusting cover, (refer to Figure 16) then place cover on adjusting screw and spin down as far as possible. Align cover with bolt holes. Using a screwdriver, move the adjusting screw out of cover until cover is seated on housing. (Do not F o r c e ) . Install bolts and washers (with seals,) in the inside holes and tighten from 25 to 30 foot pounds. (8) Install the adjusting screw locknut but d o not tighten at this time. Place a new welsh plug in position of bottom of housing and drive into position. Installing the Valve Central Spacer (1) Remove the garter spring from a new upper piston rod seal, then position seal on driver C-3331 with lip of seal toward driver. Install seal aligning pilot in end of driver. (If Tool C-3331 A is used, it will not be necessary to remove garter spring). (2) Place the housing head on a flat surface (single flange side up) and drive seal into head until seated, as shown in Figure 47. Remove tool, then reinstall garter spring. (3) Position a new "O" seal ring over shoulder on the housing head, then carefully slide head over piston rod and down against housing. Be sure "O" seal ring is seated.

Fig. 48—Removing or Installing Seal in Valve Control Spacer SPACER

57x389

Fig. 49—Installing Valve Control Spacer (4) Slide the connector nut over piston rod with threaded end out. Slide a new control spacer seal into spacer and install retainers, as shown in Figure 48. (5) Place seal protector Tool C-3329 over threads on upper rod. Now, slide spacer assembly over Tool and down against shoulder of upper rod, as shown in Figure 49. Remove seal protector Tool. (6) Install the upper piston rod nut and tighten with sharp rap of hammer on Tool C-3328. (Refer to Figure 12). Install new lock cap over nut and index with slots in rod. Using a suitable punch, drive the outer diameter into the recess in nut, as shown in Figure 50. Assembling and Installing the Worm Connector (1) Slide the worm into the connector and visually align the upper portion of the passages with the ball guide holes. (2) Insert 30 balls (no more), into lower hole by

POWER STEERING

293 TOOL

TOOL

*^-r«#i 57x238

Fig. 52—Testing Gear for Leaks

53x837 F¡g. 50—Locking Upper Piston Rod Nut Lock

PENCIL

57x261

F¡g. 51—Installing Balls in Worm Connector

pushing them gently, using the rubber end of a pencil, and at the same time, oscillating the worm, as shown in Figure 51. When 30 balls have been inserted, they should be visible in the upper hole. (3) Place the remaining balls (10) in either half of the ball guide. Grease the end balls to help hold them in place, then place the other half over balls. (4) Insert the guide and ball assembly into the holes in the connector. (Refer to Figure 14). Install clamp, lockwashers and bolts. Tighten bolts from 10 to 12 foot pounds. (5) Check the operation of the worm, making sure it is free to turn the maximum travel of the worm shaft. The worm should rotate freely by its own weight in either direction. D o not a l l o w w o r m to bottom.

(6) Install the valve adjusting cup on the end of the valve rod. Now, slide the new worm connector nut lock over the threaded end of connector with the tang side facing threads. (7) Slide the worm connector over the control spacer and screw the nut on to the connector by hand. Hold the worm connector with Tool C-3321, then using Tool C-3326, tighten nut securely. (Refer to Figure 11). Engage tang of lock with recess in nut, then stake lock in hole in connector. Remove Tools. Testing for Leaks (1) Align the housing head to gear housing, then install Tool C-3555 over head. Install bolts and tighten securely. Now, install hose fittings, adaptors and test hoses from pump to unit, as shown in Figure 52. (2) Fill the pump reservoir with type "A" Transmission fluid and have additional fluid available. Now, install Tool C-3445 through the worm shaft (forked end first) and engage valve rod. (3) Remove coil wire and turn engine over, using the starting motor. (This will prevent damaging the steering unit should the valve be positioned to give excessively fast self steering.) As the steering gear fills, it will self steer and the reservoir will need additional fluid. Be ready to turn the valve to stop the self steering before piston reaches limit of travel. Turn the valve to the right if piston moves up, and to the left as the piston moves down. Fill the reservoir. Allow unit to warm up to full operating temperature then check for leaks. (This was a temporary valve adjustment. The final adjustment should be made after unit is completely assembled.) (4) After leak test, stop engine and remove tools.

Installing the Worm Housing (1) Slide a new "O" seal ring on the smallest land of the housing head. Now, slide a bearing race over worm shaft followed by a thrust bearing and a race. (2) Slide the spacer and needle bearing assembly

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

294

into housing past the rail guides. Press shoulder of bearing spacer into housing, using a suitable tool. (3) Turn the connector until the ball guide is directly down and rails are aligned. Slide the worm housing over connector with the vent on top side. U s e c a r e s o a s not to force the "O" seal ring off the housing h e a d . Hold housing in alignment with connector rails, then seat against gear housing. (Worm housing must meet gear housing with hand pressure only). Install attaching bolts and washers. Tighten from 25 to 30 foot pounds. (4) Slide the bearing spacer over worm shaft (shoulder towards worm) and seat in housing. Now, slide bearing race thrust bearing and race over worm shaft and down against spacer. (Refer to Figure 7). Install n e w adjusting nut with locking flange up. (5) Pour 14 oz. of Type "A" Transmission fluid into the upper housing, then install filler plug. (6) Make the worm bearing adjustment, piston valve adjustment and the gear adjustments a s described in the Steering Gear Adjustment Paragraph. 3.

ADJUSTING THE POWER STEERING UNIT The three adjustments, all of which can be made without removing the assembly from the car, should be made in this sequence: Worm bearing adjustment, Piston Valve Adjustment, and Gear Lash Adjustment. Since a considerable amount of work is involved in making either the worm bearing adjustment or the piston valve adjustment in the car, it is suggested you make definitely sure that these are causing the difficulty before making the adustment necessary, and all other possibilities have been checked, and you want to make the adjustment without removing the assembly from the car; then proceed as follows:

57x239

`‰~-> \

'*à `S*</

Fig. 53—Adjusting Worm Housing Bearing (Outer)

57x240 Fig. 54—Adjusting Worm Housing Bearing (Final) (1) Remove the steering wheel using puller C-612, then remove the steering column jacket and tube. (2) Remove tube coupling bolt and washer from the center of the coupling. Using Tool C-3392, remove the coupling from worm shaft, then remove the worm housing oil seal. (3) Remove steering connecting rod (drag link) from steering gear arm. (4) Back off gear lash adjusting screw until the lash is maximum. Worm Shaft Bearing Adjustment (1) Slide Tool C-332OA over adjusting nut, and Tool C-3319 on the splines of the worm shaft with sufficient space between tools to lift C-332OA off the adjusting nut. (2) Turn the steering gear to the full left turn and hold in this position with a foot-pound torque wrench, as shown in Figure 53. (3) Attach torque wrench C-3380 to C-332OA in an in-line position. Lift wrench off nut and re-position with torque wrench down or slightly to your left. (4) While holding five foot-pounds (left) tension with the large wrench, loosen nut with small wrench and adjust to exactly five inch-pounds, as shown in Figure 54. Remove tools with extreme caution so as not to move adjusting nut. (5) Crimp ring section of adjusting nut into key way in worm shaft, with care not to move adjusting nut. Piston Valve Adjustment (1) Start the engine and run at medium idle speed. Allow the steering gear to reach maximum normal operating temperature. (2) Attach a small tap handle (or equivalent) to the flat on end of Tool C-3445, then insert tool through the worm shaft over the end of piston valve rod. (3) With the foot-pound torque wrench on the steer-

POWER STEERING ing arm nut, read tension while turning the steering gear to full right and full left. Wrench movement should be smooth. Turn the piston valve in the direction necessary to produce the same torque reading in both directions. Torque reading must be equal and under 40 foot pounds. (4) If the torque reading is equal at less than 25 foot pounds, a much more accurate adjustment can then be made with the 300 inch pound torque wrench, using the same procedure. (5) Remove tools.

Gear Lash Adjustment (1) With engine running and steering gear at normal operating temperature, turn steering gear to the straight ahead position. (2) Using a very light finger-tip touch at the end of the steering gear arm, turn gear shaft adjusting screw clockwise until all gear lash has been eliminated. (3) Turn adjusting screw ¾ turn tighter (clockwise) and tighten lock nut. (4) Stop engine. Install worm housing oil seal, lip of seal down. (5) With gear still in straight-ahead position, install coupling on worm shaft with slot in up-and-down position. (6) Install drag link on steering gear arm. (7) Install steering tube, steering wheel etc.

Front End Alignment Front end alignment is very important, not only from the point of excessive tire wear, but ease of handling as well. For procedures on checking front end alignment and specifications, refer to Front Axle Section in this manual. Tie Rods Whenever it becomes necessary to install new tie rods and or tie rod ends, make definitely sure when adjusting toe in, that both tie rod end tubes are turned an equal amount Clamp bolts must be positioned horizontally below the tube. Make sure the tie rod ball studs are positioned so they do not bind on edges of sockets, check by turning the tie rods back and forth after the clamp bolts have been tightened. 4.

REPLACING STEERING GEAR SHAFT OIL SEAL-(Unit Mounted in Car) Removal (1) Remove steering gear arm nut and lock washer and remove steering arm and transverse link from steering gear shaft. (2) Remove steering gear shaft oil seal lock ring (circular section). (3) Using Tool C-3350, as outlined in disassembly, remove steering gear oil seal.

295

Installation Before attempting to install a new seal, thoroughly clean the sealing surfaces on the gear shaft and counterbore of steering gear housing. (1) Lubricate a new steering gear shaft oil seal with lubriplate and place (lip of seal down) on a piece of clean paper. Caution: D o not r e m o v e g a r t e r spring when installing seal. (2) Carefully install tapered end of sleeve (part of Tool C-3350) in seal and slide seal back approximately ¼ inch on sleeve. (3) Install this assembly (lip of seal toward housing) over steering gear shaft until seal contacts counterbore in housing. Using Tool C-3350, push seal into position by installing adaptor over sleeve, and installing coupling nut on shaft threads until shoulder of adaptor contacts housing. Remove nut and adaptor. Wrap a new piece of friction tape around sleeve to provide a firm grip and with a turning motion, remove sleeve from seal and gear shaft. Seal is then positioned properly. (4) Install oil seal lock ring (circular section), make sure it is properly seated. (5) Install steering arm and transverse link. (6) Install steering gear arm lockwasher and nut, tighten from 100 to 120 foot-pounds.

Lubrication Proper lubrication of the steering gear and front suspension is very important on vehicles equipped with Power Steering. Lubrication of the tie rods remain the same as specified for manual steering. Reservoir and Worm Housing Since there is no hydraulic connection between the worm and gear housing, the Coaxial Power Steering has two separate fluid levels. The reservoir fluid level should be checked regularly every 1,000 miles or 30 days. Make sure top reservoir is absolutely clean. Then, remove cover or filler cap and check oil level. The oil level in reservoir should be a ½ inch above filter element (if reservoir is tilted, oil level should be ½ inch above highest point of filter element). An oil l e v e l mark is stamped on the inside of the reservoir or on the dipstick of the style using the filler cap. Replenish as necessary with Type "A" Transmission fluid. When temperatures are consistently below —10 degrees F·, it is permissible to drain the hydraulic system and refill with SAE 5W-20 (Multi Vise) Engine Oil. It is not necessary to change oil in worm housing due to temperature. When temperatures are consistently above —10 degrees F.f drain the 5W-20 lubricant, and refill with Type "A" Transmission fluid. The total capacity of the Hydraulic system is approximately 2 quarts. (Does not include worm housing.)

296

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

The Worm Housing oil level does not require periodic check (unless leakage occurs). However, should the steering gear assembly be removed for any reason, it is recommended it be checked at that time. The oil should be level with the filler plug opening when the gear assembly is in an installed position. Replenish as necessary with Type "A" Transmission fluid. Draining Hydraulic System Should it become necessary to drain the hydraulic system, proceed as follows: Extreme c a r e should be t a k e n to p r e v e n t dirt from e n t e r i n g r e s e r v o i r w h i l e c o v e r or filler c a p i s r e m o v e d . To p r e v e n t d a m a g e to filter e l e m e n t , d o n o t insert s h a r p objects into r e s e r v o i r . D o n o t disturb filter e l e m e n t a s periodic c h a n g e s of this unit a r e not r e q u i r e d . (1) Disconnect the high pressure (small) hose at the gear housing and jack up front end sufficiently to raise the wheels off floor. (2) Place the hose in a suitable container. (3) While holding hose in container start engine and allow to idle. Turn steering wheel from one extreme to the other until all fluid is forced from unit. Do not run engine above idle speed. As soon as fluid starts to show great quantities of air bubbles, stop engine. (4) Reconnect high pressure hose—refill. Refilling Hydraulic System If oil has been removed from hydraulic system, bleed the steering gear as follows: (1) Fill the reservoir slightly higher than normal. (2) Start engine and allow to run for a short time to circulate oil through the hoses. (3) With the engine running at idle speed, turn the steering wheel back and forth several times from ex-

treme right to left to bleed any remaining air out of the system. (4) Check the level in reservoir. Add oil if needed to reach level mark. Total capacity approximately 2 quarts. 5.

INSTALLATION OF COAXIAL STEER GEAR (In Car)

(1) Install the steering gear assembly through the floor pan, and down into position. (2) Install housing to frame attaching bolts, flat washers, and nuts but do not tighten. Install access plate. (3) Install rubber pad in coupling. (4) Engage steering shaft with coupling and install pin. (5) Slide steering column housing down over steering shaft and on to housing. (6) Install turn signal lever being sure column jacket does not restrict lever. (7) Tighten jacket to coaxial housing clamp. (8) Connect turn signal and horn wires. (9) Install steering column to instrument panel bracket and shroud. (10) Install steering wheel. If clearance between steering column jacket and wheel is less than ¼ inch, adjust steering column jacket to provide proper clearance. (11) Tighten front upper and lower gear housing to frame attaching bolts to 20 foot-pounds torque. (12) Install wedge over rear bolt between housing and frame, tapping lightly in place. (13) Tighten three attaching bolts to 70 foot-pounds torque. (14) Install horn ring and horn wire in steering wheel. (15) Install horn ring ornament. (16) Connect hoses from steering gear to hydraulic pump. (17) If car is equipped with standard 3 speed transmission, install gear shift tube and connect linkage.

POWER STEERING PUMP CONTENTS SERVICE General Information

INFORMATION

Par.

Page

—

297

Removing Pump and Reservoir

297

Servicing the Pump

298

POWER STEERING PUMP

297

Reservoir to pump body "O" ring not sealing Drive shaft oil seal in pump body worn or deteriorated Loose reservoir mounting screws and/or sealing washers Pressure and return hose connections and fittings loose or stripped Improper oil level Reservoir air vent plugged Air in system Dirt in pump Pump vanes sticking in rotor Pump bearing, shaft, vanes or other rotating parts worn or damaged Drive belt loose Low oil level in reservoir Pressure relief valve weak, relief valve spring or valve stuck in open position Flow control valve stuck or broken control valve spring Worn pump rotor parts

| Pump Noise

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Low Pump Pressurej

CONDITIONS mþ>

Pump Leaks

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• • • •

• • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The power steering pump is mounted at the front of the left cylinder bank and is driven by a belt from the crankshaft pulley, as shown in Figure 1. The vane type pump incorporates a serrated driving rotor in which ten vanes slide radially outward to contact the inside surface of a cam ring. As the pump shaft and rotor are turned, the centrifugal force and oil pressure against the inner ends of the vanes causes them to follow the inside surface of the cam ring. The cam ring is also shaped so as to form two opposite pumping chambers. In each of these chambers, the increasing and decreasing area formed between the pump rotor, vanes and cam ring, draws the oil from the reservoir and discharges it through the combination flow control and pressure relief valve assembly. The relief valve is set to open at 750 - 800 psi. The flow control valve limits the amount of oil required to regulate the output volume between 1.5 to 2.2 gallons per minute. Any amount above this is recirculated within the pump. A reservoir encloses the pump cover assembly and provides a reserve supply of oil to assure the needs of the hydraulic system. The filler cap is vented to allow the escape of any air introduced into the system.

REMOVING PUMP AND RESERVOIR (1) Place a suitable container under the pump and disconnect the pressure and return hoses allowing the oil to drain out of pump into the container. Keep both hose ends up to prevent further loss of fluid from Power Steering unit. Ends of hose should be covered to prevent entrance of foreign matter.

½ RESERVOIR i

157x380! Fig. 1—Power Steering Pump Installed

298

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL NUT

RESERVOIR

" O " SEAL RINGS SEAL

" O " SEAL RIN " O " SEAL RINGS PINS

CAM

BOLT

KEY

ROTOR

VANE `"`'`"¯

RING PRESSURE PLATE

Fig. 2—Power Steering Pump (Exploded View)

(2) Loosen and remove the adjusting bolt and washer, then tilt pump i n towards cylinder block. Disengage drive belt from pump pulley. (3) Remove the pivot bolt and lift pump and mounting bracket up and out of engine compartment. Remove mounting bracket. (4) Completely drain the remaining oil from reservoir.

2. SERVICING THE OIL PUMP To disassemble the vane type pump# refer to Figure 2, then proceed as follows: (1) Attach holding fixture C-3482A to the pump mounting flange, then clamp fixture in a vise, with the reservoir in an upright position, as shown in Figure 3. (It will be necessary to drill a hole in the fixture to correspond with the tapped hole in the pump flange. See Figure 21).

PUMP

57x442

Fig. 3—Power Steering Pump Mounted in Fixture

S7×U3

Fig. A—Removing or Installing Baffle and Element

299

POWER STEERING PUMP

(2) Remove the bolt and washer that attaches the pump drive pulley to the pump shaft. Pry pulley off shaft with the aid of a screwdriver, then remove key. (3) Remove the reservoir cover thumb nut and washer, then lift off cover and discard the gasket. Slide the baffle retaining spring off the center bolt. Remove the baffle and filter element, as shown in Figure 4. (4) Remove the bolts and washers that attach the center bolt and reservoir to the pump body. Remove center bolt, then lift the reservoir up and away from body, as shown in Figure 5. Discard the three (3) "O" seal rings. (5) Using snap ring pliers C-3106 or C-760, remove the snap ring that retains the bearing shaft in the pump housing, as shown in Figure 6. Pull pump shaft and bearing out of housing, as shown in Figure 7. (6) To remove bearing from shaft, pry the spiral type retaining ring out of the shaft groove, using a small screwdriver, as shown in Figure 8. Slide retaining ring off end of shaft. (7) Press bearing off shaft, using an arbor press and pilot pin (part of Tool C-3313), as shown in Figure 9.

SEAL BEARING DRIVE SHAFT

57x446

Fig. 7—Removing or Installing Drive Shaft and Bearing

RESERVOIR

57x447 Fig. 8—Removing Spiral Retaining Ring

' O " SEAL RINGS

PRESS PILOT PIN (TOOL)

57x444 BEARING

F¡g. 5—Removing or Installing Reservoir

;•;--**•-`¾

SNAP RING

F¡g. 9—Removing Shaft from Bearing BEARING

PUMP SHAFT

57x445

. o—Removing or Installing Snap Ring

This need only be done if inspection shows that replacement of bearing or shaft is necessary. (8) Insert Tool C-3185 into the drive shaft oil seal

300

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

TOOL

57x449

Fig. 10—Removing Shaft Oil Seal

(10) Using a suitable drift, drive the valve plug retainer pin out of the pump cover, as shown in Figure 11. (Hold hand over plug when withdrawing drift to keep the plug and valve from flying out.) (11) Remove the valve plug, valve and spring. Discard the "O" seal ring in the valve plug. (Refer to Figure 12.) To disassemble the valve for cleaning and inspection, remove the hex plug and gasket, then remove the check ball, ball seat pin and spring. (Refer to Figure 13.) (12) Remove the bolts that hold the pump main body, cam ring and cover together. Remove bolts and rear mounting bracket. Using a suitable Tool, scribe an alignment mark across the bodies as an aid at reassembly. (13) Remove the body cover, by sliding straight out and away from the cam ring, as shown in Figure 14. Remove and discard the "O" seal rings. Now, remove the oil flow plate and spring. PLUG GASKET

DRIFT CHECK BALL

57x450

Fig. 11—Removing Valve Plug Retaining Pin SEAT

SPRING SPRING PLUNGER

' O " SEAL RING

57x452

Fig. 13—Relief Valve (Exploded View) PLUNGER

"O" SEAL RING

PLUG

57x451

Fig. 12—Control Valve (Exploded View)

(after removing button), position the puller portion of Tool so that it extends beyond the screw shaft of the Tool. (This will prevent the end of the screw shaft from damaging the bushing or pump rotor drive splines.) (9) Thread the puller portion of Tool into seal far enough to contact and engage metal portion of seal. Pull seal out of the main body, a s shown in Figure 10. Discard seal.

OIL FLOW PLATE SPRING

Fig. 14—Removing Pump Cover

57x453

POWER STEERING PUMP

ROTOR C A M RING

PRESSURE PLATE

57x454

Fig. 15—Removing Pressure Plate CAM RING

MAIN BODY " O " SEAL RINGS

ROTOR

Fig. 16—Removing Cam Ring, Rotor and Vanes

(14) Carefully slide the pressure plate out and away from the cam ring, to expose the rotor and vanes, as shown in Figure 15. Remove the rotor and vanes from the cam ring. (15) Slide the cam ring off the pilot pins and away from the main body, as shown in Figure 16. Remove and discard the "O" seal rings. The power steering pump has now been disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning, inspection and the replacement of worn or damaged parts. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent, then blow dry with compresed air. Be sure and use new "O" seal rings and seals at reassembly. Coat seals and "O" rings with lubriplate at installation. Inspection Pump Cover—the mating surface must be smooth, without nicks or burrs. The valve body should slide in

301

the valve bore with light restriction, and show no signs of excessive wear. The check ball and seat should show no signs of pitting. Pressure p l a t e — the mating surface must be smooth, without nicks or burrs and must fit tight against the cam ring. Cam ring—the mating surface must be smooth, and fit against the main body tightly. The oval shaped vane contact surface must be smooth, and highly polished and free from scratches or ridges. Rotor a n d Vanes—the rotor should be a free slip fit on the splines on the end of the drive shaft. The vanes should be a free fit in the rotor, with no side play. Uneven wear on the trailing edge of the vane slots, has little effect on the efficiency providing the vanes are reinstalled in the same slots from which they were removed. The cam ring contact area of the vanes (rounded edge) should be free from scratches and excessive wear. If badly worn or scratched new vanes should be installed. Excessive wear on the rounded edge of the vanes produces a flat wide contact mark. A minor rough line across the trailing side of the vanes is considered normal, but be sure the vane is reinstalled in its original position in the rotor. The vanes are serviced in sets of 12 only. Main body—the mating surface must be smooth and fit the cam ring tightly. Check the condition of the drive shaft bushing if scored or worn, a new main body must be installed. Assembling the Pump Because of the important part the pump plays in the operation of the Power Steering Unit, the necessity for proper care and cleanliness during assembly cannot be over-emphasized. The following instructions for preliminary preparation should be followed carefully. After the pump parts have been cleaned and inspected, place all parts on clean paper. Do not wipe parts with a shop towel. These parts must be lint free. (1) Coat a new drive seal with lubriplate then slide over Tool C-3486 with lip away from Tool. Insert seal MAIN BODY TOOL

17—Installing Shaft Oil Seal

SEAL

302

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL ALIGNMENT PIN HOLES

PRESS C A M RING SPACER BUSHING (TOOL)

BEARING

SHAFT

MAIN BODY 57x457

Fig. 18—Installing Bearing on Shaft

and Tool into housing, then drive seal into position, as shown in Figure 17. (2) Place a new bearing on the end of drive shaft (lettered side up) and place in an arbor press. Install spacer bushing (part of Tool C-3313) over bearing, then press bearing on shaft until seated, as shown in Figure 18. (3) Slide bearing retaining ring over shaft and seat in groove on drive shaft. (Refer to Figure 8.) Slide bearing and shaft into main body. (Refer to Figure 7.) Push in on shaft until bearing is seated. Install retaining snap ring (beveled side out), using snap ring pliers, C-760 or C-3106. (Refer to Figure 6.) (4) Place the pump main body and holding fixture in the vise so that the mating surface of the body is facing up. (Refer to Figure 19.) Now install "O" seal rings, after coating with lubriplate. (1 small and 1 large in respective grooves.) VANE ROTOR " O " SEAL RING " O " SEAL RING

MAIN BODY

` ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ H K i l 57x458

Fig. 19—Installing Vanes in Rotor

57x459

Fig. 20—Installing Cam Ring Over Rotor and Vanes

(5) Slide the rotor over the splined end of shaft protruding through main body. Slide the vanes in the slots of the rotor (rounded cam contact edge out) with the trailing side of vane to the trailing edge of slots, as shown in Figure 19. (6) Position the cam ring over the pins, being sure scribe marks are in alignment, then seat cam ring on main body, as shown in Figure 20. (7) Place the pressure plate over the ends of the dowels and down against cam ring, (flat side against cam. Refer to Figure 15). (8) Coat a large "O" seal ring with lubriplate, then slide over the pressure plate and down against cam ring. Install flow plate spring in seat on pressure plate, then balance the flow plate on end of spring. (9) Coat a small "O" seal ring with lubriplate and install in groove in cover. Now, center the cover over the oil flow plate and gently lower it down against the cam ring. (Be sure scribe marks are aligned.) Install retaining bolts and mounting bracket, then tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds. (10) Assemble the flow control and relief valve, then install valve spring in bore of cover. Slide valve assembly (hex plug end first) into valve bore. Install new "O" seal ring in plug after coating with lubriplate, then slide plug into bore and secure by driving pin through cover. (It will be necessary to push in on plug to clear retaining pin, during this operation.) (11) Coat three small "O" seal rings with lubriplate, then place 2 in position in recesses on cover, slide the last one over outlet tube on bottom of reservoir. (Refer to Figure 5.) (12) Position the reservoir over cover and align outlet tube and reservoir attaching bolt holes, then lower reservoir down on cover. Install center bolt and attaching bolts and tighten from 5 to 6 foot-pounds.

TRANSMISSION-STANDARD INCH DIAMETER SPOT FACE FLUSH WITH SURFACE

1.281 INCHES

DRILL 7,6 INCH HOLES THROUGH INCHES

57x586

Fig. 21—Power Steering Pump Tool (Modified)

(13) Install filter element, baffle plate and spring over center bolt and down into position. Be sure element is centered before installing baffle plate. (14) Install a new gasket in reservoir cover, then

303

slide over center bolt and down on reservoir. Install cover washer (flat side up) and cover nut. (15) Position pulley key in slot in drive shaft, then install pulley, retaining washer and bolt. Tighten bolt from 12 to 15 foot-pounds. (16) Remove pump from holding fixture and install on car. (17) Install drive belt, and tighten as follows: The belt must be tightened to the specified belt tension to insure proper operation of the power steering unit. Tighten a new belt to 30 foot pounds or to a ¼ inch deflection at midpoint of belt. A used belt (minimum of ½ hour in operation) should be tightened to 20 footpounds or a ¼ inch deflection at midpoint of belt. (Refer to Specification Section.) (18) Connect the pressure and return hoses then fill reservoir to full mark with Automatic Transmission Oil Type "A" and install cover. Tighten nut securely. (19) Start engine and check operation of pump and check for leaks.

TRANSMISSION CONTENTS

Pa,

Page

Standard 3 Speed Transmission PowerFlite Transmission TorqueFlite Transmission Torque Converter

303 312 345 416

STANDARD 3 SPEED TRANSMISSION Assembly of Transmission Disassembly of Transmission General Information Inspection Installing Transmission in Vehicle Linkage Adjustment Servicing Rear Oil Seal

307 304 304 306

310

311 310

1 ¯

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS (MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY)

Improper selector rod adjustment Incorrect clutch disc Tighi pilot bushing Improper clutch adjustment Synchronizer improperly installed

• • • • •

Noise At Acceleration

Continuous Noise

Backlash Noise

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Hard Shifting

CONDITIONS WÊ^>

Slipping Out of Gear

NOTE: For automatic transmission TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS CHARTS, consult pages 326 (PowerFlite) and 370 (TorqueFlite).

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

304

Broken or worn synchronizer stop rings Gearshift rod bushings tight or misaligned 2nd or 3rd speed gear teeth worn Clutch housing alignment Improper adjustment of gearshift rods Excessive clearance Loose fitting clutch disc on spline Cluster gear end play Loose synchronizer clutch gear on mainshaft Emergency brake dragging Loose spline fit on low-reverse sliding gear Loose spline fit at flange Excessive end clearance at second speed gear Damaged, broken, worn gear teeth Worn drive pinion bearing Incorrect clutch disc Oil in clutch disc friction hub Loose gear on mainshaft spline Loose motor mounts

Noise At Acceleration

Continuous Noise

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Backlash Noise

Hard Shifting

CONDITIONS w*þ>

Slipping Out of Gear

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-(Continued)

• • • • •

•

• J • • • •

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES

The gears of the Standard Transmission are of the synchromesh type, helically cut to provide silent operation and long life. The countershaft gears are in constant mesh, thus assuring smooth, silent shifting in second and high gear.

prevent possible brinelling of bearings, or other damage caused by •pounding on the wrench. Disconnect hand brake cable. Remove brake drum and flange assembly, using puller, Tool C-452, then remove oil seal with puller, Tool C-748. Pull transmission straight back until pinion shaft clears clutch disc before lowering transmission. This precaution will avoid bending the clutch disc.

Gearshift Housing (Refer to Figure 1)

GENERAL INFORMATION

DISASSEMBLY

Removal From Vehicle Drain lubricant from transmission. Disconnect the propeller shaft, speedometer cable, and gearshift control rods. Remove back-up light switch (if vehicle is so equipped) and speedometer drive pinion. If mainshaft is to be removed or rear oil seal is to be replaced, apply the hand brake to hold the mainshaft while loosening the flange nut or use flange holding wrench, Tool C-3281. Remove flange nut and washer. This method will also

(1) Remove six bolts holding gearshift housing to transmission case, then remove housing and discard gasket. Remove shift forks from transmission case (if not removed with housing). (2) Remove operating levers from their respective shafts. (3) Drive out retaining pin from either of the two lever shafts and withdraw lever from housing. CAUTION:

Interlock balls are spring loaded.

TRANSMISSION-STANDARD

305

HOUSING BACK-UP LIGHT

SWITCH MOUNTING HOLE INTERLOCK SLEEVE LOW AND REVERSE GEARSHIFT LEVER

INTERLOCK BALLS

SEAL RINGS

RETAINING PIN V LOW AND REVERSE FORK

SECOND AND DIRECT GEARSHIFT

HOLDING FIXTURE

RETAINING PIN SECOND AND DIRECT FORK

57x163 Fig. 1—Gearshift Housing Assembly (Disassembled View)

(4) Remove interlock sleeve, pin, spring and remaining ball. Remove the remaining operating shaft, after driving out retaining pin. (5) Remove "O" type seal rings from operating shafts and discard. Do not remove steel expansion plug from side of gearshift housing unless there is evidence of leaking. Drive Pinion (1) Remove main drive pinion bearing retainer and discard gasket. Do not r e m o v e d r i v e p i n i o n shaft a s s e m b l y at this time. (2) Loosen, but do not remove, transmission case to extension bolts. (3) Reinstall brake drum and flange assembly, then place transmission assembly on mounting fixture as shown in Figure 2. A s the transmission will b e partially disassembled and assembled, while m o u n t e d in a v e r t i c a l position, it will b e n e c e s s a r y to p r o v i d e a s u i t a b l e m o u n t i n g fixture. A s u g g e s t e d m o u n t i n g fixture c o n sists of a w o o d or steel block ( F i g u r e 2) a p p r o x i m a t e l y 8 i n c h e s s q u a r e , with h o l e s d r i l l e d to r e c e i v e the four studs of the b r a k e d r u m a n d f l a n g e a s s e m b l y . To p r o v i d e a d d i tional stability a d d i t i o n a l h o l e s m a y b e d r i l l e d in the m o u n t i n g fixture for a t t a c h m e n t to r e p a i r s t a n d . Tool D D - 1 0 1 4 (with a d a p t o r arms, C-3304). (4) Remove drive pinion shaft assembly by lifting upward on shaft, as shown in Figure 2. It may be necessary to tap shaft lightly to aid in its removal. Complete

57x332

Fig. 2—Removing Drive Pinion Shaft Assembly

steps 5 a n d 6 o n l y if condition of b a l l b e a r i n g or pilot b e a r i n g r o l l e r s w a r r a n t their r e m o v a l . (5) Remove snap ring (small) which locks the main drive pinion bearing in position on shaft. Remove the pinion bearing washer, then carefully press pinion shaft out of bearing. Remove oil slinger. (6) Remove main drive pinion pilot bearing snap ring from cavity in end of pinion shaft, using a hook or flat blade. Remove washer and pick out rollers.

Mainshaft (1) Remove the two extension housing to transmission case bolts and nuts and the two extension housing to transmission case bolts. Now, place a nut (½ to s/e inch in thickness) between synchronizer clutch gear sleeve and inner stop ring assembly, as shown in Figure 3. The nut will serve to minimize any interference from synCASE

SYNCHRONIZER CLUTCH GEAR SLEEVE SPACER NUT INNER STOP RING

EXTENSION^ 'HOUSING!! 57x165

Fig. 3—Removing Case From Extension Housing

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

306

chronizer clutch gear sleeve when transmission case is removed from extension housing asembly. (2) Remove transmission case by lifting upward while guiding cluster gear second speed gear past synchronizer sleeve, as shown in Figure 3. Remove extension housing assembly from mounting fixture. There should be no end play of the synchronizer clutch gear on the mainshaft. If end play is present, select one of four snap rings to eliminate all end pl¤y. (Refer to Paragraph 3.) Pointed ends of clutch teeth must retain their original contour to allow proper synchronization. Check end play of second speed gear. More than .008 inch end play may result in noise. Excessive end play may be caused by end play of the clutch gear or wear on the thrust faces of second speed gear, clutch gear and ends of mainshaft spiral splines. Worn parts should be replaced if noise is objectionable or gear disengagement is encountered. If there is no end play in the clutch gear and no evidence of wear on the gears or shaft, select the combination of parts (clutch gear assembly, second speed gear, or mainshaft) that will bring the second speed gear end play within limits. The first and reverse sliding gear should move smoothly and freely on mainshaft. Remove synchronizer clutch gear snap ring, using pliers, Tool C-484 or Tool C-3301. Exercise care so as not to damage mainshaft or clutch gear. (3) Using a soft hammer drive mainshaft out of extension housing by tapping rear end of shaft. (4) Remove mainshaft rear bearing retaining snap

ring. Complete steps 5 a n d 6 only if condition of n e e d l e a n d ball bearings warrant their removal. (5) Remove needle bearing, (using Tool C-3275) by driving bearing into extension housing. (6) With needle bearing laying in extension housing, drive ball bearing out of its bore, using driver, Tool C-3275 as shown in Figure 4. Needle bearing can now be removed through rear of extension housing. Reverse Idler

Using a suitable brass drift, drive reverse idler gear shaft towards rear of transmission case. Remove locking key from key way. Finish driving out shaft and lift out reverse idler gear and bearing assembly. EXTENSION HOUSING

BEARING 57x166

Fig. A—Removing Extension Housing Rear Bearing

Countershaft Check end play of the countershaft (.004-.012 inch permissible end play—refer to Paragraph 3), to determine need for new thrust washers at assembly. (1) Using arbor. Tool C-578, drive countershaft toward rear and out of transmission case. A key at end of shaft prevents the shaft from turning. Remove key. (2) Remove countershaft (with arbor installed) from transmission case. Disassemble countershaft assembly by removing thrust washers, rollers and spacer.

2. INSPECTION Before inspecting, wash each part thoroughly in a suitable solvent, then dry. Clean mainshaft and drive pinion shaft bearings. Dry by applying compressed air directly through bearing. Never spin bearing with compressed air. Apply a little oil and turn bearing several times by hand. Check the bearings for looseness or noise by comparing them with a new bearing. (Be sure to wash grease from new bearing. Then apply a little oil before making comparison test.) Inspect fit of bearings on their respective shafts and in bores. Inspect bearings, shaft, and case for wear. If installation of a new bearing does not correct condition, install a new shaft or case. Inspect the mainshaft splines for galling or scoring. Inspect bearing mounting surfaces and snap ring grooves. Slight nicks or burrs can be stoned off. Replace damaged parts. Inspect the gear teeth and threads on the inner and outer synchronizer stop rings. Check the gear teeth on the clutch gear sleeve. If there is evidence of chipped or excessively worn gear teeth, replace the part. Make sure synchronizer clutch sleeve slides freely on clutch gear. Check the pins of the inner and outer synchronizer stop ring assembly for straightness and looseness. The pins should be 1.570 and to 1.580 inches long. If pins do not comply with this specification, replace synchronizer stop ring assemblies. Replace countershaft gear cluster, if any of its gear teeth are broken, chipped or excessively worn. Small nicks or burrs can be stoned off. Check rollers for chips and nicks. Replace all rollers if they are damaged. Check condition of thrust washers, and replace if excessive wear is evident. Inspect the clutch teeth of the drive pinion. If they are excessively worn, broken, or chipped, install a new pinion shaft. Inspect mainshaft pilot rollers for pitting or scoring. If any of these conditions exist, replace all roller bearings. If roller bearings fall out during disassembly, they are too loose and should be replaced. Inspect gearshift housing and operating levers. Replace rubber grommets in operating levers, if worn or torn. Check interlock sleeve

TRANSMISSION-STANDARD

307 BEARING EXTENSION HOUSING MAINSHAFT

EXTENSION HOUSING 57x168

Fig. 7—Installing Mainshaft In Extension Housing

57x167 Fig. 5—Installing Extension Housing Rear Bearing

for free movement in its bore. Examine interlock balls for corrosion. If operating lever shaft detents show signs of wear, replace shaft. Check shift forks for free movement. Check general condition of transmission case and extension housing. Check all threaded holes and plugs for stripped or pulled threads. Check all mating and gaskets surfaces for roughness and scratches. Inspect castings for small cracks and sand holes.

3. ASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION Before assembling the transmission, lubricate each part with clean S.A.E. 80 lubricant.

Ma¡nshaft (1) Drive mainshaft rear bearing (ball) into bore at rear of extension housing using driver, Tool C-3204, as shown in Figure 5, until bearing is seateH against shoulder in extension housing. Select and install snap ring to eliminate all end play at bearing. Snap rings are available in two sizes. M a k e s u r e s n a p r i n g s e a t s properly. (2) Press mainshaft rear bearing (needle) into extension housing using a suitable arbor press, as shown in

Figure 6, until bearing is flush with face of housing. P r e s s on l e t t e r e d side of b e a r i n g . (3) Using driver, Tool C-3105, install oil s e a l driving until tool bottoms on extension housing. (4) Position mainshaft into extension housing and tap forward end of mainshaft, using a soft hammer, as shown in Figure 7, until shoulder at rear of mainshaft seats firmly against inner race of rear bearing (ball). (5) Install brake drum and flange assembly on mainshaft then place mainshaft and extension housing assembly on fixture. (6) Place first and reverse sliding gear on mainshaft with fork collar facing up. (7) Install second speed gear, then place spreader spring and then synchronizer inner stop ring on second speed gear. Lightly g r e a s e t h r e a d s o n stop ring to p r o v i d e l u b r i c a t i o n d u r i n g initial a p p l i c a tion of s y n c h r o n i z e r a s s e m b l y . (8) Install synchronizer clutch gear on mainshaft and secure in place with one of four available snap rings to eliminate all end play at the clutch gear. Snap rings are available in the following sizes: (thin) .086-.088 inch; (med.) .089-.091 inch; (thick) .092-.044 inch; (x-thick) .095.097 inch. Install snap ring using a piece of pipe as a drive sleeve. Make sure snap ring is properly seated. (9) Place balance of synchronizer assembly on mainshaft (Refer to Figure 8). B e s u r e to a p p l y a light film of grease to outer stop ring.

^BEARING

Reverse Idler Gear (1) Insert adapter arbor (Figure 9), into reverse idler

SYNCHRONIZER UNIT

MAINSHAFT

EXTENSION HOUSING 57x333

Fig. 6—Placing Needle Bearing Into Position on Extension Housing for Installation

57x169

8—Synchronizer Unit Assembled on Ma¡nshaft

308

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL . T A B O N THRUST WASHER

ADAPTER ARBOR

57x170

Fig. 9—Installing Reverse Idler Gear

gear, then place the 22 rollers in position in gear. A suitable a d a p t o r arbor, for assembling the r e v e r s e i d l e r g e a r a s s e m b l y , c a n b e m a d e of either wood or metal by turning a n d cutting the stock to a l e n g t h of 1.0625 inches a n d a d i a m e t e r of . 7 5 0 inch. ( ¾ inch d o w e l stock should p r o v e satisfactory) (2) Install thrust washer at each end of adapter arbor. Place small amount of grease on thrust washers to hold in place during installation of gear in case. (3) Place reverse idler assembly into transmission case (pointed end of teeth forward) as shown in Figure 9. Remove adapter arbor by driving reverse idler gear shaft through idler gear until key can be installed. Continue to drive shaft into case until shaft is approximately ½ 4 inch below mating surface on transmission case.

Countershaft (1) Insert adapter arbor. Tool C-578, into countershaft gear. (2) Place spacer over adapter arbor and insert into cluster gear. (3) After installing the 22 bearing rollers (on one end), place small thrust washer against end of rollers. Install remaining rollers (22) at opposite end of countershaft. Place remaining small thrust washer next to rollers. Add small amount of grease to hold small thrust washers in place. Do n o t install l a r g e t a b b e d thrust w a s h e r s a t this time. (4) Be sure transmission case is resting on smooth surface, then position countershaft assembly into transmission case allowing adapter arbor to enter cluster gear shaft hole in rear of case. (vS) install one of the large tabbed thrust washers, as shown in Figure 10, making sure tab on washer engages groove in case. Washers are available in two sizes marked A and B. Select one to give .004 to .012 inch total end play of countershaft. (6) Slide transmission case to edge of bench to permit

ADAPTER ARBOR

^^^

57x171 Fig. 10—Installing Countershaft Thrust Washer

adapter arbor to be pushed (with the finger) into countershaft hole in front of transmission case. Rotate case 180 degrees and install remaining large thrust washer in

like manner. Make sure tab e n g a g e s groove in case. (7) Using cluster gear shaft, push adapter arbor from cluster gear until shaft key can be inserted. Continue to drive shaft into case until it is approximately y,;4 inch below mating surface on rear of transmission case. (8) Lightly grease gasket surface of extension housing and install gasket. (9) Install transmission case to extension housing assembly as ðkown in Figure 3. To m i n i m i z e inter-

ference from synchronizer clutch gear sleeve, when transmission case is placed on extension housing, place a nut (½ to Vs inch thick) between clutch gear sleeve and inner stop ring as shown in Figure 3. (10) Install the extension housing to case studs and bolts and tighten finger tight only. Drive Pinion (1) Place oil slinger, if removed, on pinion shaft. (Refer to Figure 11.) (2) Press pinion shaft into ball bearing. M a k e definitely sure slinger does not " h a n g - u p " in b e a r i n g snap-ring g r o o v e during pressing operation. (3) Install keyed washer and secure with snap ring to eliminate all end play. Four snap rings are available (same sizes as synchronizer clutch gear snap ring.)

Make sure snap ring is properly seated. If the large snap ring on main drive pinion bearing was removed, replace at this time. (4) Place shaft in vise equipped with soft jaws, and place the 14 rollers in place in pilot pocket of drive pinion. Install washer against ends of rollers. Install snap ring.

309

TRANSMISSION-STANDARD BEARING

INTERLOCK SLEEVE

OIL SLINGER WASHER

SECOND A N D DIRECT GEARSHIFT LEVER

SNAP RING 57x164

DRIVE PINION

57x172

12—Installing Interlock Sleeve L O W A N D REVERSE .GEARSHIFT LEVER SHAFT

F¡g. 11—Positioning Oil Siinger

(5) CAUTION: R e m o v e the ½ to ¾ i n c h nut from s y n c h r o n i z e r clutch g e a r s l e e v e a n d i n n e r stop ring (if not d o n e so p r e v i o u s l y ) .

Guide drive pinion shaft through front of case, engaging synchronizer outer stop ring with clutch gear on drive pinion. Pinion shaft bearing is fully seated when snap ring makes full contact with face of transmission case. (6) Slide pinion bearing retainer over pinion shaft and against transmission case. While holding retainer with hand pressure against transmission case, measure the clearance between retainer and case, using a feeler gauge. Select a gasket about .005 inch thicker (consult parts catalog for sizes) than the clearance (to eliminate end play on front bearing) and install retainer and tighten bolts. (7) Remove transmission assembly from fixture and tighten bearing retainer screws to 15 foot-pounds torque and extension to case bolts and studs to 30 foot-pounds torque. Install mainshaft washer (convex side to nut) and draw nut up snug against washer. Install lubricant drain plug. Tighten securely to 20 foot-pounds torque.

^INTERLOCK BALL

F¡g. 13—Depressing Detent Ball, Using Suggested Tool Shown in Sketch

Gearshift Housing (Refer to Figure 1) (1) Place gearshift housing in vise, equipped with soft jaws (Figure 12). (2) Place "O" ring seal on second and direct gearshift lever shaft and install lever shaft in housing. Secure shaft in place with retaining pin. (3) Install interlock sleeve in its bore, as shown in Figure 12. Place one of the interlock balls in sleeve followed by the interlock ball spring and pin. (4) Place low and reverse gearshift lever shaft (part way) into its bore after installing "O" ring seal on shaft. Place second interlock ball on top of interlock ball spring. While depressing ball with the suggested tool, as shown in Figure 13, rotate tool 90° and engage with low and reverse gearshift lever cam by completely seating shaft in bore while allowing interlock ball to

LOW A N D REVERSE GEARSHIFT LEVER SHAFT

. 14—Engaging Low-Reverse Lever Shaft With Detent Ball

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

310

RETAINING PINS

SECOND AND DIRECT FORK

LOW AND REVERSE FORK

57x162

Fig. 15—Driving Retaining Pin Into Position

seat in detent of lever, as shown in Figure 14. A suggested tool for depressing and engaging the interlock ball consists of bending and finishing a piece of ¼ inch drill rod, as shown in the sketch accompanying Figure 13. Secure shaft with retaining pin as shown in Figure 15. L e v e r shaft detents must b e p l a c e d in n e u t r a l position to a l l o w c l e a r a n c e for tool. (5) Install the gearshift operating levers and tighten retaining nuts to 20 foot-pounds torque. (6) Shift transmission into neutral and place shift forks in position in transmission case, as shown in Figure 16. Place operating levers in gearshift housing in neutral position. (7) Position gasket on transmission case to gearshift housing mating surface and install gearshift housing byengaging shift fork ends with their respective operating lever shafts. Tighten gearshift housing bolts to 20 footpounds torque. (8) Install a new steel expansion plug (if removed) in side of gearshift housing. (9) Install back-up light switch (if so equipped) and speedometer drive pinion. Check operation of gearshift housing.

If transmission case is not equipped with back-up light switch, install plug and tighten to 15 foot-pounds torque. 4. INSTALLATION If transmission has been jumping out of gear, check clutch housing bore and face alignment with housing aligning arbor. Tool C-870, before installing transmission in car. Refer to Clutch Section of this manual for procedures outlining clutch housing alignment. Installing Transmission Insert about ½ teaspoonful of short-fibre wheel bearing grease behind radius in the drive pinion pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Do not put grease on the end of the drive pinion. Be careful not to get any grease on

Fig. 16—Installing Shifting Forks

the clutch facing or flywheel, this will cause clutch disc slippage and chattering. Be sµre the clutch disc is properly aligned. NOTE: An old transmission drive pinion shaft may be used to check clutch disc alignment. Use extreme care when installing the transmission to avoid springing the clutch disc. Tighten transmission case to clutch housing bolts to a torque of 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Tighten the mainshaft flange nut to a torque of 175 foot-pounds, using the handbrake to facilitate the operation of wrench, Tool C-3281. Always check clutch pedal adjustment after installing transmission. Adjust the shifting linkage with the transmission in the neutral position. 5. SERVICING TRANSMISSION REAR OIL SEAL The transmission rear oil seal can be removed as follows: (1) Remove the propeller shaft. (2) Remove nut and washer from the rear end of the main shaft and pull off the universal joint flange and brake drum assembly, use puller Tool C-452. Never drive the flange off with a hammer as mainshaft splines may be damaged and drum made out-of-round. (3) Insert oil seal puller. Tool C-748, into the seal securely, then tighten the puller bolt and draw the seal out of housing. (4) When installing a new oil seal, be sure to use special drift, Tool C-3105, which automatically locates the seal in its proper position. (5) Reinstall brake drum and flange assembly. (6) Install washer (convex side towards nut). Tighten nut to 175 foot-pounds torque. (7) Reconnect propeller shaft and tighten stud nuts securely.

TRANSMISSION-STANDARD

STEERING COLUMN

311

FIRST A N D REVERSE SHIFT LEVER GEARSHIFT TUBE

LOWER SUPPORT SCREW

TRANSMISSION GEARSHIFT HOUSING

GEARSHIFT TUBE LOWER SUPPORT

LOW A N D REVERSE / CONTROL ROD / /

ì SECOND AND HIGH OPERATiNG LEVER SECOND AND HIGH SHIFT LEVER

/LOW AND /-•-REVERSE OPERATiNG LEVER

TUBE LEVER PIN RETAINER SECOND AND HIGH SHIFT LEVER HUB .040 INCH WIRE

57x109 Fig. 18—Gearshift Crossover Adjustment

SECOND A N D HIGH CONTROL ROD LUBRICATION FITTING TUBE LEVER PIN RETAINER GEARSHIFT TUBE LOWER SUPPORT 57x108

Fig ¶7—Gearshift Control Adjustments

6. GEARSHIFT CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS (REFER TO FIGURES 17 AND 18) Crossover Adjustment Before making the crossover adjustment the gearshift l e v e r shaft must b e in its n o r m a l fully r e t u r n e d position i n n e u t r a l . (1) After removing lubrication fitting (Figure 17) from the tube lever pin retainer, rotate retainer until gearshift tube cross pin is exposed (Figure 18). (2) If a .040 inch feeler (round) gauge cannot be inserted between the gearshift tube cross pin and the bottom of the slot in the second—direct shift lever hubƒ as shown in Figure 18, an adjustment at the gearshift tube lower support must be made as follows: (a) Loosen gearshift tube lower support screws sufficiently to permit movement of the support when support is tapped lightly with a plastic hammer. (b) Adjust support up or down, as required, to secure the necessary .040 inch clearance. (c) Tighten support clamping screws to 150 inchpounds torque (90 inch-pounds for power steering equipped units). (d) Rotate tube lever pin retainer to original position and install lube fitting. Be sure lubricant fitting is securely tightened (70 inch-pounds torque). Failure to reinstall or loss of fitting will permit tube lever pin retainer to rotate resulting in loss of gearshift tube cross pin. After completing adjustment, approximately equal up and down free travel of the gearshift lever should be provided in either high or direct gear positions and low or reverse gear positions. Check crossover adjustment, at the manual lever, by making the crossover from second—direct to low—reverse. Crossover movement should be free of interfer-

ence. Crossover movement from low—reverse to second —high likewise, should also be free of interference.

Control Rod Adjustment Transmission must b e i n n e u t r a l b e f o r e a t tempting to m a k e this adjustment. (1) Loosen and back-off adjusting nuts at the second— direct gearshift control rod swivel (Figure 19). (2) Turn both adjusting nuts in the direction required to locate lever (in vehicle) in a horizontal plane (sighting through rear window of vehicle will aid in determining horizontal plane of lever). (3) Tighten adjusting nuts securely (70 foot-pounds torque) against the second—direct control rod swivel block. B e s u r e transmission r e m a i n s i n n e u t r a l . (4) Loosen and back-off adjusting nuts at low—reverse gearshift control rod swivel (Figure 19). (5) Position low—reverse gearshift lever in direct alignment (through center of swivel block pin) with the second—direct gearshift lever. Tighten adjusting nuts securely (70 foot-pounds torque) against swivel block. DO NOT LUBRICATE SWIVEL BLOCKS. Failu r e to m a k e this adjustment c o r r e c t l y w i l l r e sult i n insufficient m a n u a l l e v e r to s t e e r i n g c o l u m n c l e a r a n c e or m a n u a l l e v e r to o p e r ator's l e g c l e a r a n c e . D a m a g e to transmission a s s e m b l y is a l s o a possibility b e c a u s e of i n c o m p l e t e e n g a g e m e n t of g e a r s . CONTROL ROD SWIVELS

ADJUSTING NUTS LOW A N D REVERSE CONTROL ROD 1 / S E C O N D A N D H!GH CONTROL ROD , ¯*¯

57x111

Fig. 19—Gearshift Lever Adjustments

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POWERFLITE TRANSMISSION CONTENTS Assembling The Transmission Checking For Oil Leaks Disassembly and Inspection Explanation of Index Items (Trouble Diagnosis Chart) General Information Hydraulic Pressure Checks Installing Transmission Removing Transmission From Vehicle Servicing Gearshift Control Housing Servicing Valve Body and Transfer Plate Transmission and Controls—Adjustments Trouble Diagnosis Chart

Par. 8 2 7 5 — 1 10 6 3 9 4 —

Page 336 321 327 325 312 320 345 327 321 341 323 326

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION Transmission Dodge PowerFlite combines a highly efficient torque converter and a simple automatic two-speed transmission which provides exceptionally smooth performance throughout the entire speed range. The transmission is equipped with a neutral starting safety switch which prevents starting the car in gear. All normal driving can be done in the drive (D) range, which accelerates the car in low range and then automatically upshifts the transmission into direct drive at the proper time, depending upon the degree of acceleration desired by the driver. The shift is fully automatic, allowing the driver to keep constant pressure on the accelerator at all times. Instantaneous acceleration, with the D (Drive) push button engaged, is accomplished by pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor. This action downshifts the transmission to low gear.

A low (LOW) range is provided to keep the transmission in low gear at all speeds for unusual driving conditions such as climbing or descending mountains or driving through sand. "Rocking" the car, when mired in mud or snow, is easily accomplished by alternately engaging the R (reverse) and LOW (low) push buttons.

Torque Converter The torque converter is capable of producing a torque multiplication of 2.6 to 1. The torque converter receives its oil supply at a constant pressure from the front oil pump in the transmission. The unit is bolted to and supported by the crankshaft flange. It consists of three basic parts: an impeller, a turbine, and a stator. The impeller, which forms the outer shell of the converter unit, is driven by the engine. The turbine is driven by the force of oil from the impeller vanes. The turbine is splined to the input shaft of the transmission. The stator, located between the impeller and turbine, serves to redirect the flow of oil in the unit, thus multiplying engine torque. The stator is mounted on an overrunning clutch which permits it to rotate only in the direction of impeller and turbine rotation. The torque converter is serviced only as complete assembly.

Gearshift Control Push Buttons

57x5581 Fig. 1 — A r r a n g e m e n t of Push Buttons

PowerFlite Transmission equipped cars have four gearshift control buttons located to the left of the steering column on the instrument panel, as shown in Figure 1. The buttons, which control the transmission, are identified by the letters R(reverse), N(neutral), D(drive), and the word LOW (low). The buttons are illuminated for night driving. The buttons are so arranged that a rapid selection of low (LOW) and reverse (R), for rocking the car when mired, can be obtained. Similarly, the selection of neu-

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

tral (N), reverse (R), and drive (D), during the operation of starting the car and backing out of a driveway, can be made guickly without the necessity of watching a pointer. Furthermore, it is not necessary to go through a forward gear to obtain reverse (R) from neutral (N). When operating the gearshift control, the button selected must be pushed to the full extent of its travel. This will automatically release a previously selected button for return to its normal position. A hydraulic interlock prevents the driver from inadvertently pushing the R (reverse) button to the reverse position when the vehicle is traveling in the D (drive) position above 15 mph. Should the reverse button be pushed "in" at a speed in excess of 15 mph., the manual valve lever will move to the neutral position. The driver is then required to again select the proper gear range.

313

LOCK SPRING

LATCHED POSITION LOCK SPRING

UNLATCHED POSITION

Gearshift Control Housing (Refer to Figure 2)

Mechanical connection between the gearshift control housing and the transmission manual control valve is obtained through the use of a single push-pull cable. One end of the wire cable is secured to the cable actuator in the gearshift housing, while the other end enters the transmission case to engage the manual control valve lever assembly. When a button is pushed in, the operating slide contacts the cable actuator, causing it to pivot. Movement of the cable actuator about its axis moves the attached wire cable. When the button nears its limit of travel, a lock spring on the button slide engages the actuator shaft. This action holds the button in the engaged position. When the operator pushes another button to select a different range, the top or bottom portion (depending on which button was pushed) of the slide contacts the actuator, thereby releasing the first button from the restraint of the slide lock. The first button is then free to return (under spring force) to its original position. A back-up light switch (when so equipped) is incorporated in the gearshift control housing and is operated by the R (reverse) push button slide. Neutral Starting Switch

The starting motor is wired in such a way that the engine cannot be started unless the N (neutral) button is engaged. Engaging the N (neutral) button closes the starting motor circuit at the neutral starting switch, located on the transmission case (Figure 9). Starting the Engine (1) As a safety precaution, apply handbrake or foot brake. (2) Push in the N (neutral) button. (3) Depress accelerator pedal slightly. (4) Turn ignition key to extreme clockwise position.

57x430

Fig. 2â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Gearshift Control Unit (Operational Sketch)

(5) When engine starts, release pressure on ignition key. Push Starting

If the engine fails to start in the normal manner, because of a discharged battery, it may be started by pushing the car. Towing the car to start is not recommended due to the sudden surge of power when the engine starts.

Turn the ignition switch on, then push "in" on the N (neutral) button. After the car has been pushed to a speed of 25 m.p.h. (approximately), push in on the LOW (low) button. This will allow the transmission to drive the engine by power transmitted from the rear wheels. How fo Drive the Car (1) When starting in extremely cold weather, allow the engine to warm up while in N (neutral) position. If the engine is cold (engine on fast idle) apply the foot brake to prevent a creep tendency when pushing the buttons in D (drive) or R (reverse) positions. (2) All normal driving will be done in D (drive) range.

The vehicle will have a slight tendency to creep after pushing the button from N (neutral) to D (drive) at idle, due to. slight torque output from the torque converter. This can be prevented by applying the foot brake. As soon as the accelerator is depressed, the vehicle will move forward in the drive (breakaway) range. At speed of between 15 and 65 mph (depending on car model and the amount the accelerator is depressed) the transmission will upshift to direct. When slowing the car down at throttle openings short of wide open, the transmission will automatically downshift from 9 to 11 mph. (approximately) depending on car model. (3) LOW (Low) provides driving characteristics similar to D (drive) except the transmission will not upshift (into

LEGEND BLUE ( L I N E ) - · O P S I DOTTED BLUE (PUMP SUCTION) YELLOW (CONVERTER)*90-60 PSI DOTTED YELLOW (LUBE)

o O

8 to m

REVERSE SERVO

NOTEA-B-CD-E

ARE

METERING HOLES OIL

STRAINER

Fig. 3—Hydraulic Circuit—Neutral

56x569B

LEGEND

SERVO PRESS BLEED VALVE

BLUE ( L I N E ) - · O PSI DOTTED BLUE (PUMP SUCTION) YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30-60 PSI DOTTED YELLOW ( L U · E ) «REEN (THROTTLE)-19-90 PSI BROWN («OVERNOR)-0-»O PSI

THR. PRESS CHECK VALVE

DIRECT CLUTCH SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE KICKDOWN SERVO

70 >

TORQUE CONVERTER NEUTRAL^ SWITCH ¯ †

CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE

m 30

is TO LUBRICATION

REGULATOR VALVE PUMP CHECK VALVES REVERSE SERVO

NOTE A·B·C·D¯E ARE METERING HOLES

56x570 B

OIL STRAINER

Fig. 4—Hydraulic Circuit—Breakaway

LEGEND BLUE ( L I N E ) - 9 0 PSI DOTTED BLUE (PUMP SUCTION) YELLOW (CONVERTER)-SO-SO PSI DOTTED YELLOW (LUBE) 6REEN (THROTTLE)-IS-»O PSI BROWN («OVERNOR)¯O-·O PSI

SERVO PRESS BLEEO VALVE

DIRECT CLUTCH SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE KICKDOWN SERVO

8 cn m 70

TORQUE CONVERTER

TO LUBRICATION

REGULATOR VALVE

REVERSE SERVO

NOTEA-B-C·D-E ARE METERING HOLES OIL

STRAINER

Fig. 5—Hydraulic Circuit—Direct

56x571 B

LEGEND

SERVO PRESS BLEED VALVE

BLUE ( L I N E ) - » O PSI DOTTED BLUE (PUMP SUCTION) YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30-60 PSI DOTTED YELLOW (LUBE) 6REEN (THROTTLE)-15-90 PSI BROWN (eOVERNOR)-0-90 PSI DOTTEO 6REEN (K.D. LIMIT)-7S PSI

_ŒJ SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE

DIRECT

CLUTCH

KICKDOWN SERVO

73 >

TORQUE CONVERTER

O CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE

TO LUBRICATION

i REGULATOR VALVE PUMP CHECK VALVES

SERVO

I—¯ NOTE A-B-CD-E ARE METERING HOLES

FRONT PUMP

OIL

56x572 B

STRAINER

Fig. 6—Hydraulic Circuit—Kickdown CO

LEGEND

SERVO PRESS BLEED VALVE

BLUE (LINE)¯9O PSI DOTTED BLUE (PUMP SUCTION) YELLOW (CONVERTER)* 3 0 - 6 0 PSI DOTTEO YELLOW (LUBE) 6REEN ( T H R 0 T T L E ) - I S - 9 0 PSI BROWN (eOVERNOR)-0-90 PSI

THR. PRESS CHECK VALVE

KICK DOWN

VALVE

DIRECT CLUTCH SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE KICKDOWN SERVO

a O

REVERSE BLOCKER VALVE TORQUE CONVERTER

to m 70

> TO LUBRICATION

REGULATOR VALVE

REVERSE SERVO

NOTE A-B-C·D-E ARE METERING HOLES OIL

STRAINER

Fig. 7—Hydraulic Circuit—Low

56x573 B

LEGEND RED (REVERSE) 2 5 0 P S I DOTTED BLUE (PUMP SUCTION) YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30-60 PS DOTTED YELLOW (LUBE)

30 >

REVERSE SERVO

NOTE A-B-C·D-E ARE METERING HOLES OIL STRAINER

Fig. 8—Hydraulic Circuit—Reverse

56x574 B

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TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE

THROTTLE PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG

cally upshift to direct if the accelerator is released or a speed of 51 to 61 mph. (V-8) or 41 to 46 mph. (6-cyl.) is reached. Any variation in downshift speed limits may be due to permissible operating fluid leakage within the transmission.

Towing

TRANSMISSION REGULATOR

OIL FILLER TUBE OPENING

(1) Transmission Inoperative—Tow the car with a rear end pickup or remove the propeller shaft. (2) Transmission Operating Properly—The car may be towed safely in N (neutral) at moderate speeds. However, for long distance towing (over 100 miles), the propeller shaft should be removed.

Checking Fluid Level Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual.

DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG

56xl09A

(Right Side) K I C K D O W N BAND ADJUSTING SCREW

LUBRICANT PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG THROTTLE CONTROL LEVER SHAFT

Hydraulic Control System Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are schematic diagrams of the hydraulic circuit and show positions of various valves and passages (color coded to indicate those under hydraulic pressure) in conditions of neutral, breakaway, direct, kickdown, low and reverse.

1. HYDRAULIC CONTROL PRESSURE CHECKS Line Pressure Remove the pipe plug from the line pressure take-off hole located on the front left side of the transmission case (Figure 9). Install pressure gauge, Tool C-3293 (300 psi) at this point.

LINE PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG CONTROL CABLE ENTRANCE HOLE

LINE PRESSURE CHART

THROTTLE VALVE ADJUSTING SCREWPLUG GOVERNOR PRESSURE TAKEOFF PLUG 56xl10A REAR EXTENSION BREATHER

(Left Side) Fig. 9—Exterior Views of Transmission

direct) at any car speed. This position provides excellent handling ease in mountain driving and superior pulling qualities in sand and snow. It is possible to push the buttons from LOW (Low) to D (drive) and D (drive) to LOW (Low) at any normal speed. Damage may result if a shift from D (drive) to LOW (Low) is made above 65 mph. for V-8 engines and 50 mph. for 6 cylinder engines. (4) Reverse—Stop the vehicle and with foot brake applied, push the R (reverse) button to full limit of travel. Upon depressing the accelerator the vehicle will move in reverse. Do not depress the R (reverse) button when the car is moving forward at a speed above 5 mph. (5) Kickdown or forced downshift. At speeds below 57 mph. (V-8) or 40 mph. (6-cyl.) in D (drive), after the transmission has upshifted to direct, maximum acceleration can be obtained for passing or climbing a steep grade by pressing the accelerator wide open. This will cause the transmission to downshift. It will automati-

Gearshift Position

Rear Wheels

Engine Speed

Line Pressure

R* Free to Turn 1400 225 to 275 N 800 85 to 95 D* Brakes Applied 800 85 to 95 L* Brakes Applied 800 85 to 95 * Engine must be at operating temperature

Throttle Pressure Remove the plug from the throttle pressure take-off hole located on the right-hand side of the transmission case (Figure 9). Install pressure gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 psi) at this point. THROTTLE PRESSURE CHART Gearshift Position Brakes Throttle D D

Engine Speed

Throttle Pressure

Applied Closed Idle 13 to 15 Applied Wide Open* 1400 to 1500 80 to 90

*Do not hold throttle wide open for longer than a few seconds. When checking throttle pressure, always follow up by checking throttle linkage adjustment (Paragraph 4). If throttle pressure does not conform to specifications refer to Paragraph 4.

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

Governor Pressure Remove the pipe plug from the governor pressure takeoff hole located on the lower left side of the output shaft support (Figure 9). Install pressure gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 psi) at this point.

GOVERNOR PRESSURE CHART Gearshift Position

Wheels

Car Speed

Governor Pressure

Free to turn Free to turn Free to turn

13 to 16 23 to 26 55 to 62

15 45 60

Direct Clutch Pressure Remove the pipe plug fitting from the pressure take-off hole tapped in the kickdown servo (Figure 9) and install pressure gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 psi). With the rear wheels free to turn, accelerate the engine slowly until an upshift occurs. During the upshift, the pressure gauge attached to the kickdown servo should show a very rapid pressure rise from 0 to final clutch or line pressure. This rise should not take more than l Â˝ to 2 seconds. With an engine speed of not less than 650 rpm. (transmission upshifted) the direct clutch pressure should read not lower than 10 psi below line pressure. Should a slow rise in clutch pressure be observed, or a clutch pressure of more than 10 psi lower than line pressure be obtained, it is an indication of abnormal leakage.

Lubrication Pressure Remove the pipe plug fitting at the left side of the output shaft support (Figure 9) and install a flared tube connector. Now, connect pressure gauge. Tool C-3292 (100 psi) gauge to the connector. Always place a flared tube nut in the flared tube fitting when screwing it in and out to keep from crushing it. With engine running 800 rpm in N (neutral) position, lubrication pressure should read 35 to 50 psi. If the pressure is incorrect, check line pressure and the Trouble Diagnosis Chart.

2. CHECKING FOR OIL LEAKS If the transmission is leaking oil, check the following points:

Leases not Requiring Removal of Transmission from Car (1) Transmission output shaft rear oil seal. (2) Speedometer pinion assembly. (3) Oil filler tube to oil pan connector. (4) Oil pan to transmission case. (5) Regulator valve and torque converter control valve plugs. (6) Test pressure hole plugs.

321

(7) If oil is found inside converter housing, check torque converter drain plug. Leaks at these locations should be corrected regardless of how slight.

Leaks Requiring Removal of Transmission from Car (1) Sand hole in transmission case. (2) Sand hole in front oil pump housing. (3) Front oil pump housing bolts loose or sealing washers damaged. (4) Torque converter impeller hub seal (located on forward end of front oil pump housing.) When correcting make sure torque converter hub run-out is within limits. (Refer to Torque Converter Section of the Transmission Section.) (5) Front oil pump housing oil seal (located on outside diameter of front oil pump housing.) When replacement of the front oil pump housing is made or whenever it is necessary to correct a leak due to this "O" seal ring, the following precautions should be taken: (a) Install a new "O" ring seal in its groove in the front oil pump housing. (b) Make sure that the seal has not been twisted during this installation, as this alone will cause a leak. (c) Measure the amount the seal protrudes above the front oil pump housing completely around the O.D. If, at any point, the seal protrudes less than .010 inch, or if considerable variation exists in the amount the seal protrudes, a new front pump housing should be selected. Leaks at these points may be remedied by tightening loose bolts or replacing damaged or faulty parts.

3. SERVICING GEARSHIFT CONTROL HOUSING Removing Gearshift Control Housing (1) From back of instrument panel, remove back-up light switch (if so equipped) and illuminating lamp lead wires. (2) Remove the four screws holding gearshift control housing and plate assembly to instrument panel. One screw at top front of plate one screw at front left edge of plate and two screws at bottom (rear) of plate. (3) Partially pull plate and gearshift control housing assembly straight out and down from instrument panel, as shown in Figure 10. If housing is equipped with a back-up light switch, exercise care when removing plate so as not to damage switch. (4) Remove the two retainer screws (Figure 10) securing housing to plate. Now, holding gearshift control housing with one hand, remove plate by carefully pulling plate away from push buttons. (5) Remove the two screws holding cable assembly bracket to gearshift control housing (Figure 11).

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322

CABLE BRACKET GEARSHIFT CONTROL HOUSING

CABLE ASSY.

PLATE ACTUATOR"'

HAIRPIN CLIP

56x55A

Fig. 11—Gearshift Control Housing (Exterior)

GEARSHIFT CONTROL CABLE RETAINER SCREWS (2)2`' J ^ "

^ff-7^ 57x149

F¡g. 10—Removing Gearshift Control Housing and Plate Assembly

(6) Remove hairpin clip securing cable end to actuator. Remove cable from gearshift housing. (7) If necessary to remove push buttons from slides, slightly spread fingers on slide and withdraw buttons. Installing the Gearshift Control Housing (1) Install end of control cable on actuator and install hairpin clip (Figure 11). (2) Place cable bracket in position on gearshift control housing, install the two screws and tighten securely. (3) If push buttons were removed, compress fingers on slides to aid in retention of push buttons. (4) Place gearshift control housing assembly in position on plate, as shown in Figure 10, and secure with the two retainer screws. (5) Carefully guide plate and housing assembly into position in instrument panel and secure with the four screws. Ií housing is equipped with back-up light switch, exercise care during positioning of plate in instrument panel to avoid damaging switch. (6) Reconnect back-up light switch wires—if vehicle is so equipped. (7) Reconnect illuminating lamp lead. Removing Gearshift Control Cable (1) Remove gearshift control cable from transmission assembly, as outlined under "Removal and Inspection of Cable Assembly Transmission End" steps 1 and 2. (2) Remove gearshift control housing and cable as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing", steps 3, 5 and 6. (3) From inside of vehicle, pull cable assembly through rubber grommet (or remove grommet) in dash panel. Installing Gearshift Control Cable (1) From inside of vehicle, install transmission end of cable through rubber grommet in dash panel. (2) Install cable at gearshift control housing as outlined under "Installing The Gearshift Control Housing," steps 1 and 2.

(3) Install gearshift housing and plate assembly in instrument panel. (4) Install cable assembly into transmission case. (Refer to "Adjusting The Gearshift Control Cable"— Paragraph 4). Replacing the Back-Up Light Switch (when so equipped) (1) Remove gearshift control housing and plate assembly as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing", steps 1 through 3. (2) Back up light switch is fastened to the control unit by four tabs. Straighten tabs to remove switch. (3) Install repaired or replacement switch and bend tabs to secure switch to gearshift control housing. (4) Install gearshift control housing and plate assembly. Replacing Push Button Unit Lamp Bulb (1) Remove the gearshift control housing and plate as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing," steps 1 through 4. (2) Remove one or more push buttons for clearance. (3) Replace defective or burned out bulb. (4) Replace gearshift control housing and plate assembly. Test operation of unit. Removal and Inspection of Cable Assembly (Transmission End) (1) Push in the R (reverse) push button to position cable adapter for removal of cable lock spring, and placing cable adapter in close proximity to cable entrance hole in transmission case, (for reinstallation of cable). Raise car on hoist and remove neutral starting switch from transmission case. Some fluid will drain out. Transmission fluid may be hot!! (2) Loosen cable to transmission adjustable mounting bracket screw. Place screwdriver blade through neutral starting switch hole, and push against cable lock spring. With the other hand, withdraw cable assembly from transmission case. (3) Examine "O" ring seal on cable ferrule. Replace seal if it shows signs of roughness, shredding or deterioration. Inspect fit of bracket slot and cable ferrule groove. The bracket should fit just freely into ferrule groove to full depth of bracket slot. If cable bracket slotted section does not meet this requirement, remove excess metal with a file.

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

4. TRANSMISSION AND CONTROLSADJUSTMENTS Throttle Pressure and Throttle Linkage Adjustment

323

THROTTLE PRESSURE ADJUSTING SCREW WRENCH C-3279A

Accurate adjustment of the transmission throttle linkage and setting of the throttle oil pressure is very important for proper operation of the PowerFlite transmission. Therefore, the following procedures should be very carefully performed:

Throttle Linkage Adjustment (8 Cylinder) (1) Be sure there is no bind in the throttle linkage; if there is, correct this condition before proceeding. (2) Run engine until normal operating temperature is reached. (3) Remove air cleaner to make definitely sure the choke is in the fully opened position. (4) Connect tachometer leads to coil and ground. (5) Adjust engine idle adjusting screw on carburetor to give 475-500 rpm's (transmission in neutral position) and stop engine. (6) Loosen the throttle linkage adjusting screw (located on accelerator shaft to carburetor rod.) (7) Move the rear position of the accelerator shaft to carburetor rod rearward until it is stopped by the idle stop on the transmission throttle cam. (8) With rods in line and rear portion of rod preloaded, lock throttle linkage adjusting screw by applying from 7 to 9 foot-pounds torque. (9) Start engine and recheck idle setting (475-500) rpm's with transmission in neutral and hand brake set. Stop engine and remove tachometer.

Throttle Linkage Adjustment (6 Cylinder) The previous operations apply also to the "6" cylinder models except operations 6, 7 and 8, which are performed in the following manner: (1) Loosen the throttle linkage adjusting screw (located on throttle control rod from engine to carburetor). (2) While holding throttle control rod from engine to carburetor against closed throttle stop, move bellcrank arm just enough to start extending the accelerator return spring.) Do not extend spring more than ¼ inch in opposite direction. (3) With control rods in line and pre-loaded lightly, lock throttle rod adjusting screw by applying from 10 to 15 foot-pounds torque.

Throttle Pressure Adjustment (6 and 8 Cylinder) (1) With throttle linkage properly adjusted and tachometer attached, start engine and recheck idle setting (475-500 rpm) with transmission in neutral and hand brake set. Raise vehicle on hoist. (2) Remove the throttle oil pressure take off plug located between reverse and kickdown servos on right side of transmission. (Refer to Figure 9.) Connect 100 psi pressure gauge, Tool C-3292.

Fig. 12—Adjusting Throttle Pressure (Typical)

(3) Push in the D (drive) push button. (When the manual control lever is moved into drive range, engine speed will drop approximately 50 rpm.) Check throttle pressure. Oil pressure should read 13 to 15 psi. If the pressure is not within specifications, adjust as follows: (4) Remove the throttle valve adjusting screw plug (Figure 9). About 1 quart of transmission fluid will drain out. (5) Insert adjusting screw wrench, Tool C-3279A and adjust throttle pressure to 14 psi, as shown in Figure 12. Turn screw OUT to increase pressure and IN to decrease pressure. (6) Replace the throttle valve adjusting screw plug and torque from 20 to 25 foot-pounds. (7) With the accelerator pedal fully released, and engine at 475 to 500 rpm, the pressure should read 14 psi. (8) Move the accelerator pedal or lever from underneath, very slowly. With throttle pressure and linkage properly adjusted, the throttle pressure will rise (approximately 6-8 psi) the instant engine rpm is increased. Do not use throttle rod. When making this check, use accelerator pedal lever located on underside of floor pan. (9) Remove oil pressure gauge and install plug. Torque from 10 to 12 foot-pounds. (10) If the throttle pressure was adjusted, replace the fluid that drained out, with (Type "A") Automatic Transmission Fluid. (11) Check accelerator pedal height—at wide open throttle. There should be sufficient clearance between the tip of the pedal and the floor mat. Adjust pedal to accelerator shaft rod assembly.

Adjustment of Kickdown (Front) Band (1) Using a ¾ inch open end wrench loosen the locknut (Figure 9). Check the freeness of the adjusting screw in the transmission case. If free, use inch-pound torque

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

324

NEUTRAL STARTER SWITCH CAM 56x155

Fig. 14—Neutral Starting Switch Cam Centered in Switch Mounting Hole

able mounting bracket and tighten cap screw finger tight. Fig. 13—Adjusting the Reverse Band (Typical)

wrench. Tool C-3380 (with extension C-3583) and tighten the adjusting screw from 40-43 inch-pounds* torque. Disregard multiplication factor on Extension, C-3583. Use a reference mark of chalk or colored pencil on the corner of the adjusting screw square and the transmission case. Using extreme care, back the adjusting screw out exactly 2¾ turns. Now, hold the adjusting screw stationary with wrench and tighten the locknut securely. Extreme care must be exercised in performing this operation to insure correct adjustment otherwise serious damage will occur when transmission is operated. *lf Tool C-3380 (with extension C-3583) is not used, then, use wrench. Tool C-3380 and tighten adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds torque.

Reverse (Rear) Band Adjustment (1) Drain transmission and remove transmission oil pan. (2) Loosen reverse band adjusting screw locknut and tighten adjusting screw from 20 to 25 inch-pounds, as shown in Figure 13. Back out adjusting screw 10 turns. Holding adjusting screw in this location, tighten lock nut securely (30-35 foot-pounds torque). (3) Replace the transmission oil pan, using a new gasket and refill transmission with Automatic Transmission fluid (Type "A").

Cable and Neutral Starting Switch Adjustment Move the cable and bracket assembly (manually) at the transmission, as required, to position the manual valve lever into neutral. Hold the N (neutral) button tightly "in" at full travel. The neutral starting switch cam should then be practically centered in the neutral starting switch hole, as shown in Figure 14. Use a free-fitting flat-faced shaft, inserted through the neutral switch mounting hole (Figure 15), and apply light pressure against the manual valve lever to maintain the neutral detent position of the manual lever. If tool is not available, lever may be held by finger pressure. Carefully move cable assembly "in" and "out" without m o v i n g the manual lever, to determine total freeplay travel of cable. Locate the cable in mid-position of the free-play, release the pressure against the manual lever and tighten the mounting bracket securely. Do not allow the c a b l e to m o v e when tightening the bracket. Replace the neutral starting switch. Check transmission fluid level as outlined in Lubrication Section of this manual.

Adjusting the Gearshift Control Cable Installing Cable Push in LOW (low) push button. Place transmission manual valve lever in reverse detent by moving neutral switch contact part of lever full travel towards rear of car manually, by using screw driver (or other suitable tool) in neutral starting switch hole. With LOW (low) push button held tightly in (full travel), insert cable assembly into transmission case engaging cable ferrule groove with lock spring in cable adapter. Push and pull the cable, using light pressure, to be sure groove in cable ferrule has engaged lock spring. Replace adjust-

FLAT END ROD 56 x154A

NEUTRAL STARTER SWITCH CAM

Fig. 15—"Locking" Manual Valve Lever in Neutral Position (Oil Pan Removed to Show Operation)

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE Road Testing

When faulty operation of the transmission is reported, transmission fluid level and engine idle should be checked before anything else. Good transmission operation also depends on good engine operation. Therefore, before blaming any rough shifting on the transmission it is necessary to make sure the engine is operating at full efficiency. If, when tuning the engine, the throttle linkage between the carburetor and the transmission is disturbed, it will be necessary to readjust the linkage. Refer to Throttle Pressure and Throttle Linkage Adjustment (Paragraph 4). After all the adjustments and pressure checks are completed, road test the car under varying road conditions. The transmission should respond according to the following shift patterns:

SHIFT PATTERN SUMMARY (M. P.H.) Upshift Downshift Wide Light Open Throttle Throttle 14 to 19 51 to 61 *l3tol8 *4l to 46 *6 Cylinder

Wide KickLight Open down Throttle Throttle Limit 9 to 11 9 to 17 41 to 57 *9to 11 *9 to 16 *34 to 44

All shift speeds may vary somewhat due to production tolerances, however, the quality of the shifts should be smooth, responsive, and without noticeable engine runaway. 5. EXPLANATION OF INDEX ITEMS O N TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS CHART A. Oil level—Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual. B. Throttle linkage—Refer to Paragraph 4. C. Gearshift control cable—Refer to Paragraph 4. D. Pressure tap check—Hydraulic Pressure taps have been provided to check the following pressures: line, lubrication, direct clutch, governor, and throttle (Refer to Figure 9). These pressures should fall within specified limits stated in Hydraulic Control Pressure Check Charts. E· Kickdown band adjustment—The kickdown band adjustment screw is found on the left side of transmission case (Figure 9). Refer to Paragraph 4. F. Reverse band adjustment—The oil pan must be removed to make this adjustment. The adjustment is made by backing off adjusting screw lock nut. Torque the adjusting screw to 20 to 25 inch-pounds torque then back adjusting set screw out 10 turns. Tighten lock nut from 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque. G. Engine idle—Adjust to 475 to 500 r.p.m.

325

H· Neutral starting switch—Check wire connections and switch. I. Handbrake—Check for excessive drag. Adjust as outlined in Brakes Section of this manual. J. Regulator valve spring—The regulator valve may be removed by removing the regulator valve spring retainer which is on the right side of transmission case (Figure 9). Check for a stuck or scratched valve and/or buckled spring. K. Converter control valve, spring—The converter control valve may be removed by removing the converter control valve spring retainer which is on right side of transmission case (Figure 9). Check for a stuck or scratched valve and/or buckled spring. L. Breather—Check to determine whether breather is free of dirt, undercoating, etc. M. Output shaft rear bearing, snap ring—Check for rough bearing and/or unseated snap ring. Snap rings are available in two sizes. N. Torque converter housing cooling air passages— Check for dirt, mud, or other foreign material on screens or torque converter cooling fins. O. Kickdown servo, band and linkage—Check for broken seal rings, stuck servo piston or broken linkage. P . Reverse servo, band and linkage—Check for torn seal, stuck, broken band and/or linkage. Q· Oil strainer and suction tubes—Check for possible air leakage at front pump suction tube, or rear pump suction tube. R. Valve body attaching bolts and mating surface— Check for loose bolts, burrs or scratches on mating surfaces. Clean valve body assembly. Check for stuck valves, dirt, scratched valves or body, and burrs on valves. Torque valve body bolts to specifications. S. Speedometer pinion—Check nylon teeth for wear, shredding. T. Governor—Clean assembly and check weight assembly and valve for burrs, scratches or sticky operation. Examine the governor valve shaft, shaft snap rings and seal rings. U. Rear pump—Clean and inspect assembly for side and diametral clearance. Note whether rear oil pump pinion ball is in place. Examine output shaft support face for scoring. a. Front pump and Drive sleeve—Clean and inspect assembly for side and diametral clearance. Examine oil pump inner and outer rotor for scoring. Check front pump drive sleeve seal ring. b . Regulator valve body, mating surfaces, gasket— Clean and inspect valve body for scratches and scoring on valve bores and face which bears against the front pump housing. Examine valve body to determine if secondary reaction orifice is free of dirt. Check gasket for uniformness of compression by valve body.

326

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

e. Planetary gear set—Clean and inspect gear set for worn thrust washers, nicked or rough gear teeth, and excessive pinion end clearance. f· Seal rings—Check for burrs, broken ends. Refer to Figure 16 for illustration showing location of the various drilled passages in transmission case.

e· Converter—Flush out converter and check converter hub runout. (Refer to Torque Converter Section of the Transmission Section.) d· Direct clutch—Clean and inspect discs, plates, drive hub, return spring and piston.

TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS CHART This Trouble Diagnosis Chart has the operating difficulties listed in three groups. After road testing, match the trouble found to its particular group and to the specific difficulty under that group. The "Index" and "Item" in the "Items to check" column are next checked against the "Explanation of Index Items." Capital letter items refer to those operations which may be performed without removing the transmission. The small letter items refer to those operations done after removal of transmission from car.

a. Front Pump— Drive Sleeve b. Reg. Valve Body. Gasket, Surfaces c. Converter d. Direct Clutch e. Planetary Gear Set f. Seal Rings

1 Starter Won't Energize

í o

Impossible to Push Start Engine

îl

_ Trans. Hard to Fill* Oil Blows Out of Tub·

1 Grating, Scraping, Growling 1 Noises

Miscellaneous

1 Drags or 1 Locks

1 Moves Backward in Neutral

No Drive in * Any Range

Moves Forward in Neutral

Reverse Band Slips

No Drive ¡nD-L

in All 1 Ranges m\Slips W

_ Shifts * Erratically

No K.D. or Normal Downshift

Upshift ·|

# |No

Harsh Upshift and K.D.

Runaway on Upshift and K.D. Ä W

A. Oil Level B. Throttle Link Adj. C. Gearshift Control Cable Adj. D. Pressure Checks— Line Lube., etc. E. K.D. Band Adj. F. Reverse Band Adj. G. Engine Idle H. Neutral Start SW. I. Handbrake Adj. J. Regulator Valves— Springs K. Converter Control Valve L. Breather M. Output Shaft Rear Bearing S.R. N. T.C. Air Passages O. K.D. Servo-band Linkage P. R. Servo Band Linkage Q. Oil Strainer R. Valve Body-Bolts— Mating Surfaces S. Speedometer Pinion T. Governor U. Rear Pump

Delayed NtoD

ITEM

INDEX

Harsh N to R or N to D

ITEMS TO CHECK See "Explanation of Index Items"

Slips in Drive Position

OPERATING DIFFICULTY Response

Shift Abnormalities

• 0 #

# #

# m

# #

• •

•

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE REAR PUMP SUCTION REVERSE PRESSURE \ THROTTLE \ PRESSURE

327

KICKDOWN O N PRESSURE K I C K D O W N OFF PRESSURE PRESSURE TO REGULATOR VALVE FRONT PUMP SUCTION FRONT PUMP CHECK VALVE STAND (TOOL)

56x170

Fig. 17â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Transmission Inverted in Repair Stand UPSET PRESSURE TO REGULATOR VALVE DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE GOVERNOR PRESSURE REAR PUMP CHECK VALVE

TO PRESSURE GAUGE (FOR SERVICE) 57x161

Fig. 16â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Transmission Oil Passages

6. REMOVING TRANSMISSION FROM VEHICLE (1) Drain transmission by disconnecting oil filler tube connector at oil pan. Remove torque converter housing access plate. Then, remove the torque converter drain plug. After draining, replace plug and tighten securely. (2) Disconnect front propeller shaft universal joint and secure shaft to frame. (3) Remove brake adjusting screw cover plate and loosen cable clamp bolt on hand brake cable support. Disengage ball end of handbrake cable from operating lever and remove cable from handbrake cable support. (4) Disconnect speedometer cable and housing. To a v o i d d a m a g e to n e u t r a l starting switch, rem o v e switch from transmission c a s e before r e m o v i n g transmission from v e h i c l e . (5) Disconnect throttle linkage from lever at transmission. Remove gearshift control cable. (6) Remove nuts and lockwashers from rear engine mount. (7) Install engine support fixture, Tool C-3487. Adjust fixture to support weight of engine and raise engine slightly. (8) Remove crossmember to torsion bar support bracket bolts (three at each end of crossmember, four in convertible models.) Then, drop crossmember, leaving engine rear support adapter attached to transmission. When u s i n g Fixture, Tool C - 3 4 8 7 , d o not l o w e r e n g i n e m o r e t h a n t h r e e i n c h e s from floor p a n to a v o i d disturbing the set position of w a t e r hoses and other engine attachments. (9) Remove the two upper transmission case to converter housing screws and lockwashers. Then, install guide studs, Tool C-3276.

(10) Remove the two lower transmission case to converter housing screws and lockwashers. Now, slide transmission straight back to avoid damaging front pump drive sleeve. After removing transmission from car, attach fixture, Tool C-3280, and invert transmission assembly as shown in Figure 17.

7. DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION (1) Remove the front oil pump drive sleeve and inspect. Check the drive lugs and machined surfaces for burrs and wear. Inspect seal ring for brittleness and shredding. (2) Remove the bolts and lockwashers which hold the engine rear support adapter to extension housing. (3) Loosen the throttle control lever assembly locking screw. Slide the throttle control lever assembly off the shaft and remove the felt retainer and felt. Inspect throttle control lever for wear. (4) Remove the oil pan bolts, oil pan, and gasket. (5) Remove the oil strainer support bolts and washers. Inspect seal rings located at both outlets of strainer. (6) Remove the five transfer plate bolts and lockwashers. Remove the valve body and transfer plate assembly from transmission case. Remove throttle valve camshaft sleeve "O" ring seal. Discard seal if torn or shredded. The valve body mating surfaces are machined. Work carefully to avoid damaging these surfaces. Place valve body in stand. Tool C-3294.

Checking Transmission End Play Prior to removal of propeller shaft flange and drum assembly, check end clearance of front clutch piston retainer assembly using dial indicator, Tool C-3339, as shown in Figure 18. (1) Pry front clutch forward by inserting screw driver between the direct clutch assembly and pinion carrier housing. (2) Remove screw driver; and with dial indicator point contacting edge of direct clutch retainer, set dial indicator to zero. Pry direct clutch assembly rearward against pinion carrier housing, remove screw driver, and take indicator reading. Clearance should be from .026 to .052 inch. If this clearance exceeds the specified limit, particular attention should be paid to the condition of the direct clutch retainer thrust washer when disas-

328

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL washer is selectively fit and is available in the following thicknesses: .078-.080, .095-.097, and .112-.114 inch.

53x611 Fig. 18—Checking Transmission End Clearance TOOL

57x98

Fig. 19-Hold¡ng Output Shaft While Removing Nut

53x60 Fig. 20—Removal and Installation of Speedometer Drive Pinion sembling transmission. Record the amount of end clearance so that the proper thickness thrust washer can be installed at assembly. If clearance exceeds .052 inch, install a thicker direct clutch piston retainer thrust washer (fiber). If clearance is less than .026 inch, install a thinner washer. The thrust

Removal of Hand Brake Assembly (1) Use wrench. Tool C-3281, to hold the mainshaft, as shown in Figure 19. Then, remove the transmission flange nut and washer. (2) Install puller, Tool C-452, to remove brake drum and flange assembly. (3) Using a suitable drift, remove pin which secures brake shoe anchor in extension. Remove the brake support grease shield spring and remove shield. If a screw driver or sharp instrument is used in removing shield, care must be exercised to avoid damaging the neoprene sealing surface at the bottom of the shield. (4) Slide the hand brake assembly intact from extension housing. Removal, Disassembly and Inspection of Transmission Extension (1) Remove the speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly, as shown in Figure 20. The nylon g e a r c a n b e e a s i l y d a m a g e d if extension housing is rem o v e d without first r e m o v i n g the s p e e d o m e t e r d r i v e pinion. (2) Inspect the output shaft rear bearing oil seal and remove, if necessary, by using puller. Tool C-748. Remove any burrs from counter-bore of extension housing. (3) Remove the seven transmission extension to case screws and lockwashers. (4) Install guide studs. Tool C-3283, and remove extension assembly by carefully tapping assembly rearward, using a soft hammer. Remove transmission extension gasket and discard. (5) Do not remove extension bearing unless inspection reveals it is necessary. Never reuse a bearing which has been removed. If necessary to remove bearing, remove the output shaft rear bearing snap ring. Inspect ring for distortion. Use driver, Tool C-3275, and drive bearing out of extension housing. Removal, Disassembly and Inspection of Governor (1) Loosen governor body to support screws to aid in removal of governor assembly. (2) Using a sharp instrument, such as an ice pick, remove the governor valve shaft snap ring (weight end) and remove the governor valve shaft and valve from governor valve body assembly (Figure 21). (3) Using pliers, Tool C-760, remove the governor weight assembly snap ring (large one), and remove the governor weight assembly from the governor body (Figure 22). Remove governor secondary weight snap ring (Figure 23) using pliers, Tool C-3229. Keep thumb against secondary weight when removing snap ring (spring loaded.)

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

329

lOUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT RETAINING SCREW PRIMARY (OUTER) WEIGHT GOVERNOR BODY INTERMEDIATE WEIGHT

GOVERNOR LOCATING SCREW

SPRING

SECONDARY (INNER) WEIGHT

GOVERNOR VALVE SHAFT GOVERNOR VALVE-^=5H¾SF'

SNAP RING ` <MfcJfc,' 53xl3A

Fig. 21—Removal and Installation of Governor Valve and Shaft

56x26

Fig. 23—Governor Weight Assembly (Disassembled View) OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT

GOVERNOR BODY

REAR OIL PUMP HOUSING GOVERNOR BODY SUPPORT GOVERNOR BODY

GOVERNOR WEIGHT ASSEMBLY GOVERNOR SUPPORT PISTON RINGS •* «™™_~,., • — • ,

-™

.....

53x73

—·

53x14

Fig. 22—Removal and Installation of Governor Weight Assembly

Fig. 24—Removal and Installation of Governor Body and Support

(4) Remove governor secondary weight and spring and the intermediate weight. Inspect all parts (Figure 23) for burrs and wear. Check intermediate weight for free movement in primary weight by placing intermediate weight in primary weight. Intermediate weight should fall freely when both parts are clean and dry. Inspect spring for distortion and inspect secondary weight. (5) Remove governor locating screw from the governor body and output shaft. (6) Slide governor body and support from output shaft (Figure 24). Remove and inspect the two governor support piston rings. (7) Remove the four governor body to support screws and lockwashers and separate body from support. Mating surfaces are machined and can be easily damaged. Inspect oil passages. Clean passages thoroughly with compressed air. Inspect valve and governor body for scores. Check ball plug in face of governor.

Removal, Disassembly, and Inspection of Rear OH Pump (1) Remove the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support screws and lockwashers. Remove rear oil pump housing, as shown in Figure 25. Use dye to mark front side of gear in housing. Do not u s e scribe. Inspect machined surfaces for nicks and burrs, the oil pump gear and housing for scoring or pitting and pump housing plug for leaks. (2) Remove rear oil pump pinion from output shaft and mark front side with dye. The oil pump pinion is keyed to output shaft by a small ball. When removing pinion, do not lose the ball. Inspect key way in pinion and ball pocket in output shaft for wear, and also the gear for pitting or scoring. (3) Using straightedge. Tool C-3335, and feeler gauge, check clearance between pump housing face and face of gears as shown in Figure 26. Clearance limits are from .001 to .003 inch.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

330

OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT REAR OIL PUMP PINION OUTPUT SHAFT REAR OIL PUMP HOUSING

55Pi25o

C-3283 GUIDE STUDS

Fig. 25—Removal and Installation of Rear Oil Pump Housing `* - v .

TOOL

53x66

Fig. 26—Checking Clearance Between Pump Body and Gears

_ _ _

and locknut to release any tension of reverse band on carrier housing. Grasping output shaft in both hands, carefully work shaft, planet pinion carrier assemblies, housing and support, out of transmission case, as shown in Figure 27. If support is stuck to transmission case and cannot be removed as described, lightly tap support with a soft hammer. (2) Remove the large (tabbed) kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust washer from direct clutch piston retainer assembly (if not removed with gear train.) Inspect for cracks, burrs and wear. (3) Because the diameter of the direct clutch retainer is greater than the diameter of the reverse band, it is necessary to first remove the reverse band before the direct clutch assembly can be withdrawn from the transmission case. To remove the reverse band, loosen the band adjusting screw and locknut and compress band sufficiently to remove band strut. Unhook reverse band from link assembly. Remove band by rotating it through the relieved area in transmission case, as shown in Figure 28. (4) To remove the direct clutch assembly, loosen kickdown band adjusting screw locknut and back off adjusting screw sufficiently to provide clearance for removal of clutch retainer. Remove the direct clutch assembly from the reaction shaft, as shown in Figure 29. Wrap towel around sun gear to protect hand. Be sure to remove direct clutch retainer thrust washer (fiber) from reaction shaft. Removal and Inspection of Planet Carriers (Refer to Figure 30) (1) Using a feeler gauge, check clearance between the planet pinion carrier housing snap ring and kickdown planet carrier assembly. This clearance should be from .010 to .021 inch. Snap rings are available in the following thicknesses: .062-.064, .072-.074, and .082-

56x171

Fig. 27—Removing Output Shaft, Carrier Housing and Input Shaft Assemblies Removal of Output Shaft Support, Planet Pinion Carriers, and Direct Clutch Assemblies (1) Remove output shaft support to transmission case screw and washer. Loosen reverse band adjusting screw

Fig. 28—Removing or Installing Reverse Band

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FUTE

331

56x157

Fig. 29—Removing or Installing Direct Clutch Assembly PLANET PINION CARRIER HOUSING THRUST WASHER KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR THRUST WASHER

57x42

Fig. 32—Removing or Installing Input Shaft and K¡ckdown Planet Pinion Carrier Assembly

TOOL KICKDOWN ANNULUS SNAP RING

\ KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER THRUST WASHER

56 x 343

Fig. 30—Transmission Gear Train (Disassembled View)

SNAP RING

JžL ×43 Fig. 31—Removing K¡ckdown Planet Pinion Carrier Housing Snap Ring

.084 inch. If this selection of snap rings fails to provide the necessary clearance, use one of the kickdown sun gear snap rings (part number 1327729) which will permit a minimum of .058-.060 inch. (2) Using a screw driver, remove the planet pinion carrier housing snap ring (Figure 31). Identify snap ring to aid in reassembly. (3) Remove the input shaft, kickdown planet pinion

Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Kickdown Annulus Gear Snap Ring

carrier assembly and kickdown annulus gear from carrier housing, as shown in Figure 32. (4) Remove the kickdown annulus gear after removing snap ring (Figure 33) from input shaft. Inspect gear for worn, cracked, and broken teeth. Remove the small (tabbed) thrust washer and inspect for cracks, burrs and wear. (5) Remove kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly from input shaft. Inspect stop ring near end of shaft (controls position of kickdown annulus gear on input shaft). Check all oil passages in both the gear and shaft for obstructions. Inspect splines and bearing surface on input shaft for burrs and wear. Inspect snap ring groove. Check bronze bushing (Figure 34) for free movement and scoring. Inspect kickdown planet pinion carrier for scores on thrust surfaces and broken and worn gear teeth. Using a feeler gauge, check end clearance on individual planet pinion gears. Clearance should be .006 to .017 inch.

332

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR STOP RING

BUSHING / INPUT SHAFT KICKDOWN PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY KICKDOWN ANNULUS GEAR 53 x 16A

Fig. 34—Input Shaft, Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier and Annulus Gear (Disassembled View)

57x40

Fig. 37—Removal and Installation of K¡ckdown Sun Gear

57x41

Pig. 35—Removal and Installation of Reverse Planet

Pinion Carrier Assembly

53x56 Fig. 36—Removing K¡ckdown Sun Gear Snap Ring

Inspect pinion shafts for fit in the carrier and make sure pinions are free to rotate. Inspect retaining pins in pinion shaft. Inspect planet pinion washers for scoring.

Do not replace carrier unless inspection reveals it is necessary. The kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly is serviced only as a complete assembly. (6) Remove the reverse planet pinion carrier from the carrier housing, as shown in Figure 35. Remove the output shaft and reverse annulus gear assembly and fiber thrust washer from the carrier housing. Using pliers. Tool C-3301, remove the reverse annulus gear snap ring and remove annulus gear from output shaft. Inspect annulus gear for worn or broken teeth. Inspect output shaft ring grooves (seal and snap) for burrs and inspect rings for broken ends. Inspect splines on both shaft and annulus gear for burrs and wear. Check speedometer gear for burrs. Check output shaft bronze pilot bushing for wear, scoring. The output shaft is serviced only as an assembly. Inspect reverse planet pinion carrier housing fiber thrust washer for cracks and wear. Inspect planet pinion carrier housing and driving lug slots inside housing for wear. Closely inspect band contacting surface for burned spots and scoring, especially if reverse band lining has become excessively worn. Inspect reverse planet pinion carrier assembly in same manner as kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly. Inspect all oil passages in output shaft support for obstructions. Check rear oil pump mating surface for burrs and score marks. Check for stripped threads in support. Inspect gasket surfaces for burrs and dirt. Inspect both inside and outside bearing surfaces for wear and scoring. Disassembly and Inspection of the Direct Clutch Piston Retainer (1) Using a screwdriver, remove the kickdown sun gear snap ring as shown in Figure 36. The ring is a select fit. Identify to aid in reassembly. (2) lift out kickdown sun gear assembly (Figure 37).

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE Oil passages in front are to lubricate the kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust washer. Inspect for clutch material obstructing oil passages. Remove foreign material which may have accumulated on front side. Inspect driving disc contact surface for evidence of burning or scoring. Inspect sun gear for cracked or broken teeth. Lift out direct clutch hub from center of direct clutch piston retainer. Oil passages in hub are to lubricate the clutch plates and driving discs when clutch is in released position. Inspect clutch hub driving lugs for wear and remove metal pickup which may have accumulated on either side of the hub. Inspect hub splines for burrs and wear. (3) Invert the direct clutch piston retainer and remove the clutch plates (steel) and driving disc assemblies. Note the position in which these were assembled. If assembly was started with the cork portion on outer top, the same sequence must be followed all through the assembly, or vice versa. Assembling the unit in this manner assures a more even contact. Inspect driving discs for evidence of burning, glazing, and flaking off of facing material. Check discs by scratching facings with finger nail; if material collects under nail, replace all driving discs. Replace driving discs if splines have became damaged. Inspect the steel clutch plates for evidence of burning, scoring, and damaged splines. (4) Using compressor, Tool C-3533, compress the direct clutch spring sufficiently to unseat the direct clutch spring retainer snap ring with pliers, Tool C-3301, as shown in Figure 38. Release compressor. Tool C-3533, and remove the direct clutch spring retainer snap ring, spring retainer and spring from the clutch retainer. Check spring, retainer and snap ring for distortion. (5) Using a twisting motion, remove the direct clutch piston from retainer. Note the ball check in clutch retainer housing. The ball check relieves centrifugal oil pressure when transmission is in neutral and prevents clutch engagement when engine speeds are increased. Make sure ball operates freely. The bronze bushing used in the direct clutch piston retainer is not replaceable. Inspect reaction shaft seal ring contacting areas, on retainer, for grooving. Inspect the band contacting surface for deep scores and burns, especially if the kickdown band lining is worn to the point where the steel band has been contacting the direct clutch piston retainer. Do not turn the direct d u t c h piston ret a i n e r in a l a t h e to r e m o v e score m a r k s . (6) Inspect steel clutch plate contacting surfaces for deep scores and burrs. Make sure clutch driving lugs will slide freely into retainer. Remove any metal pickup on hub of retainer. Inspect bore of the piston for score marks. If score marks are light, remove with crocus cloth. If they are heavy, replace the piston. Remove the direct

333 DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING RETAINER SNAP RING TOOL C-3302 DIRECT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER ASSY

DIRECT CLUTCH SPRING RETAINER TOOL C-3301

53x121 Fig. 38â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removal and Installation of Direct Clutch Spring Retainer Snap Ring

clutch piston retainer seal ring (lip type neoprene) from retainer hub, using a suitable piece of wire. Remove the direct clutch piston seal ring (neoprene) from outer circumference of piston. Removal and Inspection of Kickdown Band (1) Compress kickdown band ends sufficiently to remove the kickdown band strut. Note that strut is grooved to act as a guide to the kickdown band strut pin on band end. Remove adjusting screw blade. (2) Remove the kickdown band assembly by rotating band ends through rear opening in transmission case. Both reverse and kickdown bands have bonded lining and no attempt should be made to reline them. The kickdown band is narrower, larger in diameter, and has a different lining material. Make visual inspection of lining for wear and bond. If lining is worn so that grooves are no longer visible, the band assembly must be replaced. Inspect band for distortion and cracked ends. Removal of the Reverse and Kickdown Band Levers Inspect reverse band link assembly for wear and riveting of assembly. Inspect levers for cracks and wear. Make sure they have side clearance and are free to turn on shafts. Do not remove these assemblies unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. If necessary, remove levers as follows: (1) Insert fingers in back of reverse band and link assembly lever shaft. Holding the reverse band lever and link assembly with the other hand, push shaft out of rear opening in case. (2) Remove kickdown band lever shaft plug in front of transmission case. Remove kickdown lever by inserting finger in back of kickdown lever shaft and, holding the band lever with the other hand, push shaft out front of transmission case.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

334

FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING 56x627

Fig. 39—Removal of Front Oil Pump Housing

(Typical View)

57x39

GUIDE STUDS REGULATOR VALVE BODY

TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT

53x22 Fig. 40—Removing Regulator Valve Body—Using Guide Studs (Top View); Using Puller Tool (Bottom View)

Removal of the Front Oil Pump (1) Remove the transmission regulator valve spring retainer, gasket and spring.

(2) Remove the torque converter control valve spring retainer, gasket and spring. Do not remove valves. To remove these valves when transmission is installed in vehicle, use a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod inserted in end of valve. Valves are so constructed that they will not drop into front housing when removing. (3) Remove the front oil pump housing to transmission case bolts and washers. Install guide studs, Tool C-3288. (4) Using a soft hammer, tap on the circumference of the housing to loosen. Pull oil pump housing assembly and gears from the transmission case (Figure 39). Using dye, mark front side of gears. Do not u s e scribe marks. (5) Remove oil pump gear from front oil pump housing. Remove the front oil pump housing seal (large neoprene) from circumference of housing. (6) Using a brass drift, drive the front oil pump housing oil seal from front of housing. Inspect front oil pump housing bushing for scores (bushing is not replaceable). This bushing supports the front oil pump drive sleeve. Slight scores may be removed with crocus cloth. Inspect pump housing and gears for scores and wear. (7) Using straightedge. Tool C-3335, and feeler gauge, check clearance between pump housing face and face of gears. Clearance limits are .0012 to .0022 inch. Make sure all oil passages are open by blowing them out with compressed air.

Removal of Regulator Valve Body (1) If regulator valve body cannot be removed by installing guide studs, Tool C-3283, in tapped holes in body (and pulling outward with the hands, as shown in Figure 40) use the two threaded holes provided in the regulator valve body to attach puller. Tool C-3287, and install (if removed) guide studs, Tool C-3288 (Figure 40). (2) Pull regulator valve body from torque converter reaction shaft and discard the gasket. Handle the regulator valve body carefully. (3) Place body and both valves in pan containing a clean solvent, wash thoroughly, and dry with compressed air. Inspect both valves for free movement in valve body. They should fall in and out of bores when both the valves and body are dry. Crocus cloth may be used to polish valves, providing care is exercised not to round the sharp edge portion of the valves. The sharp edge portion prevents dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and body, reducing the possibility of sticking. Check all fluid passages for obstructions and inspect all mating surfaces for burrs and distortion. If regulator valve body should have a slight nick or raised portion on mating surfaces, it may be removed

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

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by using a surface plate and crocus cloth. (4) Check regulator valve spring seat (snap ring). After both valves and regulator valve body have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected, place them on clean paper and cover with clean paper until ready for installation. Leave valves in regulator body bores. Removal of Reverse Servo Piston (1) Install compressor. Tool C-3289 or C-3529, on transmission case (use oil pan screws) and compress reverse servo piston spring retainer. (2) Using a screw driver, remove the reverse servo piston spring retainer snap ring, as shown in Figure 41. Loosen compressing portion of tool. Spring retainer may require guiding out of transmission case. (3) Remove the spring retainer, spring and servo piston and plug assembly. (4) Remove the servo piston seal (lip type neoprene) from piston. (5) Remove reverse servo piston plug snap ring. (6) Remove plug and cushion spring from piston. Inspect servo bore for scoring. Light scores may be removed with crocus cloth. Check plug for scoring and wear at lever contact point. Check plug snap ring and groove for burrs, wear.

TOOL

REVERSE SERVO ASSY RETAINER I SNAP RING

53x40 Fig. 41â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removal and Installation of Reverse Servo Assembly Retainer Snap Ring

Removal of Kickdown Piston (1) Using compressor, Tool C-3289 or C-3529, apply sufficient pressure on the kickdown piston rod guide to remove the piston rod guide, retaining snap ring. (2) Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove tool from transmission case. Remove piston rod guide, piston spring, and kickdown piston rod assembly. Inspect riveting of the kickdown piston rod to kickdown spring retainer. (3) Remove seal ring from guide. Inspect for light scores and wear on piston rod and guide. (4) Using lock ring pliers, Tool C-484, remove the kickdown piston from the transmission case. (5) Remove the three seal rings (two locking and one open type) from the kickdown piston. Inspect piston for light scores and wear. Inspect rings for broken ends.

(3) Using Tool C-3297 or C-3531 press reaction shaft out of transmission case as shown in Figure 42. (4) Remove the two torque converter reaction shaft seal rings (interlocking).

Removal of Torque Converter Reaction Shaft Inspect torque converter reaction shaft steel seal rings (interlocking type) for broken ends. Make sure they are free to rotate in the lands. Inspect neoprene seal ring for brittleness. Inspect splines on shaft for burrs and wear. Inspect thrust surfaces for wear and slight scores. Remove the reaction shaft seal (neoprene). Do not remove the torque converter reaction shaft unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. If necessary to remove reaction shaft, follow these steps: (1) Remove neoprene seal ring. (2) Remove the three transmission case to reaction shaft screws and washers.

Removal of Kickdown Band Adjusting Screw Loosen locking nut and remove kickdown band adjustment screw and locknut. When locknut is loosened, the adjusting screw must be finger free. If it is not, inspect screw and nut for pulled threads or foreign material in threads. The transmission and its components have been disassembled for inspection, cleaning and the replacement of worn or damaged parts. Inspect transmission case for cracks, sand holes, and stripped threads. Check for burrs on mating surfaces. Blow compressed air through all passages (Refer to Figure 16) to make sure they are open. Check oil pressure take-off plugs for tightness. Check drive type

TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT

53xf24

Fig. 42â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removal of Torque Converter Reaction Shaft

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336

breather in extension housing for being plugged (undercoating) and looseness.

Coat new torque converter reaction shaft seal ring (neoprene) with transmission fluid and install on shaft.

8. ASSEMBLING THE TRANSMISSION

Installing the Kickdown Piston

Before assembling the transmission, lubricate each part with d e a n Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A).

(1) Coat the three kickdown piston rings with transmission fluid (two locking and one open type) and install on piston. Interlock the rings and make sure they are free to rotate in lands. (2) Place kickdown piston assembly into transmission case. Compress bottom ring (large) with a piece of brass rod. After bottom ring has entered, piston will seem to hang at two different locations while being pushed into case. This is due to rings entering cylinder. DO NOT HAMMER. (3) Place kickdown piston rod in piston and slide spring over kickdown piston rod. (4) Coat a new kickdown piston rod guide seal ring with transmission fluid and install on kickdown piston rod guide. Make sure ring rotates freely in land. (5) Install compressor, Tool C-3289 (or C-3529), on transmission case. Using extreme care, compress the kickdown piston spring to the point that piston guide seal ring slightly binds on case. Using a piece of brass rod flattened on end, work seal ring into position, gradually compressing spring until seal ring enters case. (6) Install the kickdown piston rod guide retaining snap ring. Make sure snap ring is properly seated.

Installing Kickdown Band Adjusting Screw It is vitally important that the adjusting screw fit freely into the transmission case. Install adjusting screw, with locking nut attached, into transmission case until there is approximately 1 inch of screw left on outside of case. Do not lock screw into position at this time.

Installing the Torque Converter Reaction Shaft (1) Coat the two steel torque converter reaction shaft seal rings with transmission fluid. (2) Install rings on shaft. Make sure they are interlocked and rotate freely in the ring lands. (3) Coat portion of reaction shaft (that presses into case) with transmission fluid. Position torque converter reaction shaft into transmission case so that holes in shaft align with bolt holes in case. Install Tool C-3297 (or Tool C-3531). (4) Place two front oil pump to transmission case screws (coarse thread) through reaction shaft screw holes in transmission case until threads contact the machine threads of reaction shaft flange screw holes (fine thread). Use very light finger pressure to tighten (approximately one turn). In this position, the bolts will serve as guides in aligning the reaction shaft flange dowel hole with the dowel in the transmission case. (5) Press reaction shaft into transmission case. Remove Tool C-3297 (or Tool C-3531). (6) Remove the two front pump screws (guide). Start the three transmission case to reaction shaft bolts and washers and tighten from 10 to 15 foot-pounds torque. REGULATOR VALVE TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE

Installing The Reverse Servo Piston (1) Install cushion spring and plug in servo piston. (2) Install the reverse servo piston plug snap ring. Make sure snap ring is properly seated. (3) Coat a new reverse servo piston ring (neoprene) with transmission fluid and install (lip facing down) on piston. Insert reverse servo piston and plug assembly into transmission case in a cocked position. Then, by rotating piston, the piston ring will enter case without being damaged. (4) Place reverse servo piston spring over piston and position spring retainer over spring. Compress spring with compressor, Tool C-3289 (or C-3529), sufficiently to install snap ring. The spring retainer may require guiding into case. Make sure snap ring seats properly. Remove installing tool from transmission case.

Installing The Regulator Valve Body

GUIDE STUDS

56x159

Fig. 43â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installing Regulator Valve Body

Inspect regulator valve body and valves to make sure that no damage has occurred since first inspection and cleaning. Blow out passages with compressed air. Make sure torque converter reaction shaft seal (neoprene) is coated with transmission fluid. (1) Place the transmission regulator valve and torque converter control valve in the regulator valve body. (Refer to Figure 43.) (2) Install guide studs, Tool C-3288 (if removed) in front of transmission case, position new regulator valve

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

337

body gasket and valve body assembly (with oil passages to rear) over torque converter reaction shaft. Seat firmly against gasket on front of transmission case. Use extreme care when placing regulator body in position to prevent reaction shaft screws from damaging passages in regulator body. Installing The Front Oil Pump (1) Position front oil pump housing oil seal in front of oil pump housing (metal portion of seal down). Using driver, Tool C-3278, bottom seal into housing, as shown in Figure 44. (2) Coat new front oil pump housing seal (neoprene) with transmision fluid and install on housing. Make sure seal is properly seated in groove (lip facing down) and that it protrudes .010 inch above circumference of housing. (3) Place transmission front oil pump gear and pinion (driving lugs of pinion facing up) in oil pump housing and check the marking. Unless oil pump pinion is installed correctly, considerable damage will result when transmission is installed in vehicle. Lubricate oil pump gears with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). (4) Place front oil pump housing assembly (with oil drain facing up) over torque converter reaction shaft and slide into position over guide studs and up against regulator valve body. Start five of the bolts and draw housing down evenly until it is seated into transmission case. (5) Remove guide studs and install the two remaining bolts and washers. Tighten to 17 foot-pounds torque. After all bolts have been installed and properly torqued, engage the driving lugs of the oil pump pinion to determine if oil pump pinion turns freely. Use the oil pump drive sleeve for this check. If pinion does not turn freely, remove pump and check for foreign matter between pump gears and housing. Lugs of drive sleeve should extend nor more than from ½ to ¾ inch beyond face of oil pump housing. (6) Using a new gasket, install the torque converter control valve spring and retainer. Tighten from 35 to 40 foot-pounds torque. (7) Using a new gasket, install the transmission regulator valve spring and retainer. Tighten from 45 to 50 foot-pounds torque. Installing the Kickdown Band And Levers (1) Place kickdown band lever assembly into transmission case and slide the kickdown band lever shaft into position from front of transmision case. The lever should operate freely on shaft. (2) Install kickdown band lever shaft plug in front of transmission case and tighten from 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque. (3) Place kickdown band assembly into transmission case by rotating ends of band through rear opening in

FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING

53x28

F¡ g 44—Installing Front Pump Oil Seal

case. Fit either end of the kickdown band over adjusting screw blade and compress the band lever. Make sure the kickdown bond strut slot engages with kickdown strut pin in the band end. Assembling The Direct Clutch Piston Retainer (1) Coat a new direct clutch piston seal ring with transmission fluid and install on piston, with lip of seal facing away from the flange. (2) Coat a new direct clutch piston retainer seal ring with transmission fluid and install (lip of seal down) on retainer hub. (3) Place piston assembly in the direct clutch retainer and, with a twisting motion, seat piston in bottom of retainer. Work carefully to avoid damaging lip of seals. (4) Seat the direct clutch spring into the direct clutch piston retainer. Place spring retainer on spring and snap ring on spring retainer. (5) Using compressor, Tool C-3533, compress the direct clutch spring sufficiently to seat the snap ring in its groove. Make sure snap ring is properly seated. (6) Remove compressor, Tool C-3533. Place the direct clutch hub in the center of the direct clutch piston retainer. (7) Lubricate the clutch plates and driving discs with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Place one of the clutch plates (steel) in the direct clutch piston retainer, followed by a driving disc. If assembly of driving discs was started with cork portion on outer top, the same must be followed all through the assembly. (8) Place the kickdown sun gear assembly in the direct clutch piston retainer. (9) Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance under the kickdown sun gear snap ring. Select a snap ring

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â&#x20AC;˘REVERSE BAND LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW REVERSE BAND LEVER REVERSE BAND ASSY

REVERSE BAND LEVER SHAFT REVERSE BAND LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW NUT

REVERSE BAND LINK ASSY

53x50

Fig. 45â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Reverse Band Linkage

to give minimum clearance (close to zero as possible). Make sure snap ring seats properly. Snap rings are available in the following two thicknesses: .058 to .060 inch and .062 to .064 inch. (10) Place fiber thrust washer (select fit, see "Checking Transmission End Play") on reaction shaft and install direct clutch assembly in transmission case as shown in Figure 29. Installing Reverse Band And Levers Assembly (1) Place the reverse band lever assembly in the reverse band link assembly and place in transmission case. (2) Align the holes in the lever and link assemblies to shaft hole in transmission case. Slide the reverse band lever shaft into position from rear of transmission case. (3) Place reverse band assembly into transmission case by rotating ends of band through relieved area in transmission case (Figure 28). Hook end of band in link assembly. Compress band sufficiently to install the strut in the slots of the band and lever assembly. (Figure 45 illustrates assembly of reverse band linkage after installation in transmission case). Installing the Planet Pinion Carriers in Housing (Refer to Figure 30). (1) Lubricate bearing surface of planet pinion carrier housing, and place bearing surface of housing over output shaft support bearing surface. (2) Place the reverse annulus gear on the output shaft and install snap ring. Output shaft may be placed in a vise, providing it is clean and equipped with soft jaws. Reverse annulus gear must fit tightly on output shaft. End clearance is controlled by various snap rings which are available in the following thicknesses: .078 to .080 inch; .082 to .084 inch, and .086 to .088 inch. Make sure snap ring seats properly.

(3) Coat output shaft seal ring with transmission fluid and install on shaft. Interlock the seal ring into position and make sure ring rotates freely in land. (4) Coat the planet pinion carrier housing fiber thrust washer with lubriplate, slide washer over output shaft and against thrust surface on reverse annulus gear. (5) Place output shaft and reverse annulus gear into position in the planet carrier housing. Be careful not to damage the output shaft seal ring as it enters the output shaft support. Make sure the fiber thrust washer seats properly between the reverse annulus gear and the planet pinion carrier housing. (6) Coat reverse annulus gear teeth with transmission fluid. (7) Lubricate thust surfaces and gear teeth of the reverse planet pinion gears and carrier assembly. Place carrier assembly (Figure 35) in the reverse annulus gear. Make sure driving lugs on carrier assembly properly engage the slots in the planet pinion carrier housing. (8) Coat input shaft bearing surfaces and gear teeth on the kickdown planet pinion gears and carrier assembly with transmission fluid. Slide kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly carefully down on rear end of input shaft and over stop ring. Lubricate small thrust washer (tabbed) and install on input shaft and against thrust surface of kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly. (9) Lubricate teeth and thrust surfaces, then slide kickdown annulus gear over input shaft down to stop ring (Figure 34). Install kickdown annulus gear snap ring and make sure it is seated properly (Figure 33). Input shaft may be placed in a vise, providing vise is clean and equipped with soft jaws. (10) Lubricate the large kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust washer (tabbed) with lubriplate and install on kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly. (11) Place the kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly, kickdown annulus gear and input shaft into position in planet pinion carrier housing. Make sure lugs on kickdown carrier assembly properly engage the slots in the planet pinion carrier housing. (12) Install planet pinion carrier housing snap ring (raise housing slightly to aid in installing snap ring). Make sure snap ring is positioned and seated properly. (13) Using feeler gauge, check the clearance between the kickdown planet carrier housing snap ring and the kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly. Limits are .010 to .021 inch. If the clearance is not within these limits, select a new snap ring. Snap rings are available in the following thicknesses: .062 to .064 inch; .072 to .074 inch, and .082 to .084 inch. If this selection of snap rings fails to provide sufficient clearance, use a kickdown sun gear snap ring (part number 1327729) which will permit a minimum of .058-.060 inch.

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE Installing the Output Shaft Support, Planet Pinion Carriers and Housing Assembly (1) Install guide studs. Tool C-3283, in rear of transmission case. Position new output shaft support gasket over guide studs and against case. (2) Insert input shaft, planet pinion carrier housing, output shaft support and output shaft through the rear of transmission case. Make sure large kickdown planet pinion carrier thrust washer (tabbed) is positioned correctly against thrust surface of direct clutch retainer assembly. (3) Install the one output shaft support to transmission case screw and lockwasher and tighten finger tight. Installing the Rear Oil Pump (1) Coat transmission rear oil pump pinion ball with transmission fluid and insert in ball pocket in output shaft. (2) Lubricate rear oil pump drive pinion with transmission fluid, place over output shaft and slide into position. Align keyway in pinion with ball shaft. Pinion was marked when removed in disassembly, so make sure it is installed correctly. Check the marking. (3) Slide rear oil pump housing assembly over output shaft support bolts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten from 10 to 12 foot-pounds torque. After bolts have been properly tightened, turn output shaft to make sure pump gears are free to rotate. If they are not, remove pump to determine cause. Installing the Governor on the Output Shaft (1) Coat the two governor support piston rings with transmission fluid and install on the governor support. Stagger rings and make sure they are free to rotate in lands. Position governor on support and install the four screws and lockwashers. D o not tighten s c r e w s at this time. (2) Slide governor support and body assembly over output shaft, as shown in Figure 24, and into position in rear oil pump housing. Compress governor support piston rings with fingers a s support enters oil pump housing. (3) Align locating hole in output shaft to locating screw hole in governor body and install governor locating screw. Tighten from 3Â˝ to 4 foot-pounds torque. Holes can be easily aligned by turning output shaft and holding governor body. (4) Tighten the four governor body screws from 5 to 10 foot-pounds torque. (5) Dry governor parts with compressed air, but do not lubricate when assembling. Place governor intermediate weight in primary weight. (6) Install the secondary weight spring and weight. Compress spring sufficiently to install snap ring. Make

339 SNAP RINGS

57x37

Fig. 46â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Positioning Governor Valve Shaft Snap Ring

sure the spring seats properly and that snap ring is seated properly. (7) Place the governor weight assembly (secondary weight snap ring up) into governor body (Figure 22) and install snap ring. Make sure the snap ring seats properly. (8) Slide the governor valve (small end up) over the governor body (Figure 21) through the output shaft and governor weight assembly. At the same time, position valve into body. (9) Install the governor valve shaft snap ring. Make sure snap ring is positioned at outer end of groove. (Refer to Figure 46.) If positioned at inner end of groove it may limit travel of governor valve. Make sure ring is properly locked to shaft. (10) Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in body. Installing The Transmission Extension, Oil Seal and Bearing (1) Install the new output shaft rear bearing in extension housing with driver, Tool C-3204. Make sure bearing is properly seated and then lubricate with Automatic Transmission Fluid Type A. (2) Install output shaft rear bearing snap ring. Snap rings are available in two sizes. Select one to eliminate all end play at bearing. (3) Install extension oil seal with driver, Tool C-3205, as shown in Figure 47. (4) Place new transmission extension gasket over guide studs, Tool C-3283, and into position against output shaft support. Do not use sealing material on gasket. Avoid damaging the governor housing when placing the rear extension housing over the output shaft and onto the guide studs. (5) Position housing by tapping with soft hammer. Remove guide studs and install the seven transmission extension to case bolts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds torque. (6) Tighten the output shaft support to case bolt from 25 to 30 foot-pounds torque. Turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. (7) Coat nylon gear and threads on speedometer drive pinion with transmission fluid and install in transmission extension, as shown in Figure 20. Tighten from 40 to 45 foot-pounds torque.

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t r •«s C-3205 DRIVER

REAR EXTENSION HOUSING

OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING OIL SEAL

57x38

Fig. 48—Removal of Output Shaft Support, Extension, Handbrake Assembly and Pinion Carriers Housing As an Assembly transmission will have to be partially disassembled to allow a direct clutch retainer thrust washer (fiber) of proper thickness to be installed. Thrust washers are available in the following three thicknesses: .078-.080 inch; .095-.097 inch, and .112-.114 inch. (1) Remove the screws and lock washers from the transmission extension and install guide studs. Tool C-3283. (2) Remove the output shaft support to case screw and washer and remove the extension housing (with brake assembly), output shaft support and planet pinion carrier housing as one assembly as shown in Figure 48.

53x25 Fig. 47—Installation of Output Shaft Rear Bearing Oil Seal Checking Transmission End Play Before transmission end play is checked, it is necessary that the hand brake drum be installed and tightened to required torque specifications (175 foot-pounds). This operation is necessary to aid in proper seating of the extension rear bearing. Refer to page 327. If end play does not fall within specifications, the SCREW í l ¯- ¯ -s»jf LOCK ;| ŠJ WASHER '

SCREW(2)^J LOCK WASHER (2L

¶—= iL· I !l

SCREW M) LOCK WASHER (4!

TRANSFER PLATE COVER SCREW ¢3) AND LOCK WASHER (3)

TRANSFER PLATE

PUMP CHECK VALVE VALVE BODY PLATE

THROTTLE CONTROL CAM SHAFT

CONTROL CABLE RETAINER LOCK SPRING MANUAL VALVE LEVER CABLE RETAINER CLIP DRIVE SCREW REVERSE BLOCKER VALVE AND SPRING SHIFT VALVE A N D SPRING

SCREW—SHORT (1)

*¾ö

. ^ ^ " /

PLUG

SCREW (2)

END COVER PLATE END COVER

THROTTLE VALVE OPERATING LEVER ASSEMBLY

KICKDOWN ROD, BALL A N D SPRING

`O" RING SEAL-

-RETAINING RING

THROTTLE VALVE AND SPRING

F¡g. 49—Valve Body and Transfer Plate Assembly (Disassembled View)

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

341

(3) Slide the direct clutch piston retainer from torque converter reaction shaft (it is unnecessary to remove it from transmission case) and remove the direct clutch retainer thrust washer. (4) Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the washer and select washer to give correct clearance. Assemble as previously instructed. Adjustment of Bands (Bench) Kickdown (Front Band) (1) Using a ¾ inch open end wrench, loosen the locknut. (2) Check the freeness of the adjusting screw in the transmission. Refer to "Transmission and Controls— Adjustments," Paragraph 4. R e v e r s e (Rear) B a n d (1) Loosen reverse band adjusting screw locknut and tighten adjusting screw from 20 to 25 inch-pounds torque. (2) Back out adjusting screw 10 turns. (3) Holding the adjusting screw in this location, tighten the adjusting screw locknut to 30 to 35 footpounds torque. 9. SERVICING THE VALVE BODY AND TRANSFER PLATE Disassembling The Valve Body and Transfer Plate To disassemble the valve body and transfer plate for cleaning, inspection, and overhaul, refer to Figure 49, and proceed as follows: (1) Place valve body and transfer plate assembly in stand. Tool C-3294 (if not previously done so) (Figure 50). D o not u s e v i s e to h o l d v a l v e body a n d transfer p l a t e . (2) Remove two of the long transfer plate cover bolts and lockwashers and install guide studs. Tool C-3295. (3) Keeping fin<ger pressure against transfer plate, remove the remaining three (2 long and 1 short) transfer plate cover bolts, and remove transfer plate cover as shown in Figure 50. Do not lose the servo restrictor valve operating plug from transfer plate when removing transfer plate from valve body plate (Figure 51). Observe position of front and rear pump check valves in transfer plate. Rear pump check valve has metering hole. (4) Remove valve body plate from valve body. The servo pressure bleed valve may stick to valve body plate when it is removed. Note position of servo pressure bleed valve and pressure check valve ball. Refer to Figure 52. (5) Remove valve body from stand, Tool C-3294, and remove guide studs. Remove servo pressure bleed valve and pressure check valve ball, and place in clean container.

STAND (TOOL) 56x160

Fig. 50—Valve Body and Transfer Plate Assembly in Stand

TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY

RESTRICTOR VALVE OPERATING PLUG

55P1264

VALVE BODY PLATE

Fig. 51—Removing Transfer Plate Assembly CONTROL CABLE ADAPTER CLIP

PUSH BUTTON UNIT CABLE ADAPTER

THROTTLE VALVE OPERATING LEVER ASSEMBLY

THROTTLE VALVE C A M ASSEMBLY NUAL VALVE LEVER ASSEMBLY

K I C K D O W N VALVE ROD

OPERATING LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW M A N U A L VALVE REVERSE BLOCKER VALVE

SHIFT VALVE PLUG

THROTTLE VALVE

SERVO PRESSURE BLEED VALVE

THROTTLE PRESSURE^ CHECK VALVE BALL

SHUTTLE VALVE VALVE BODY E N D COVER PLATr

END COVER ASSE

Fig. 52-Valve Body Assembly (Valve Body Plate Removed)

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342

RETAINER RING

^ 56x174 Fig. 54â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removing Throttle Camshaft Retaining Ring

56x161 Fig. 53â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Compressing Throttle Valve Operating Lever

(6) Remove the throttle valve cam return spring from cam and throttle operating lever. (7) Compressing the throttle valve operating lever assembly against throttle valve spring, as shown in Figure 53, rotate the throttle valve operating assembly outward from the throttle valve cam. Swing throttle valve operating lever out of the way and remove the throttle valve spring and retainer from throttle valve. Remove the throttle valve from the valve body bore. (8) Check the distance from valve body to end of throttle valve operating adjusting screw. Using wrench, Tool C-3279B, remove the throttle valve adjusting screw and throttle valve operating lever assembly. Normally, it is not necessary to remove this assembly unless damaged parts are to be replaced. (9) Holding the manual valve lever detent plate and sleeve securely, remove small retainer ring which locks throttle camshaft in sleeve (Figure 54). While maintaining constant thumb pressure on detent plate, carefully withdraw sleeve from valve body. Remove throttle valve cam assembly and manual valve lever assembly. Detent plate ball is spring loaded. Do not l o s e t h e

detent ball. (10) Remove detent ball and spring from valve body. Remove the manual valve by slowly rotating it out of its bore. (11) Remove reverse blocker valve cotter pin, spring and valve. Remove valve by rotating it out of the bore. Do not remove push button unit control cable adapter, lock spring or cable adapter clip, unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so (Figure 52). (12) Remove the four (three long and one short) valve body end cover plate bolts and lockwashers and remove valve body end cover plate. (13) Remove valve body end cover screw and lockwasher (oval fillister). Keep pressure against valve body end cover when removing screws a s there are

three springs behind cover. Do not disturb the setting. Cleaning And Inspecting The Valve Body And Transfer Plate After each part has been thoroughly cleaned and inspected, place on clean paper until ready for assembly. Make sure all parts are free from obstructions, and inspect all mating surfaces for burrs, nicks and grooves. Small nicks, etc. may be removed with crocus cloth; otherwise, damaged parts must be replaced. Using straightedge. Tool C-3335, check all mating surfaces for distortion. Inspect bores in valve body for score marks, pits and irregularities. Inspect all springs for distortion and collapsed coils. Inspect all valves and plugs for burrs, nicks and scores. Small ones may be removed with crocus cloth, providing extreme care is taken to avoid rounding off the sharp edge portion of the valve which helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between valves and body, reducing the possibility of sticking. Check valves and plugs (dry) for free operation in bores. All must fall freely in the bores when the valves, plugs and bores are clean and dry. Inspect detent portions on manual valve lever assembly for wear. Inspect detent ball for wear and make sure it slides freely into valve body. Inspect staking of control cable adapter to detent plate and cable adapter clip to valve body. Inspect the staking of valve lever and throttle valve cam to their respective shafts. Inspect the throttle valve operating lever roller to make sure it rolls freely. Inspect throttle valve operating lever adjusting screw and pin for wear. Make sure adjusting screw rotates freely in the throttle valve operating lever. Check the nib in the throttle valve operating lever (which contacts throttle valve spring retainer) for wear. Inspect kickdown valve rod for wear and scoring, and also inspect for wear at entering point in valve body. Inspect kickdown valve ball seat in valve body. Inspect servo restrictor valve (Figure 55) in the transfer plate to make sure valve is

TRANSMISSION-POWER-FLITE

343

SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE

DETENT BALL TRANSFER PLATE

56x162

53x76*, Fig. 55—Servo Restr¡ctor Valve seating properly. If valve is distorted, carefully remove the drive screw. Install new valve and new drive screw. Make sure the drive screw is tight. Avoid distorting transfer plate when performing this operation. Inspect valve body plate for burrs and make sure the five small metering holes are open. Visually inspect pump check valve springs in the transfer plate.

Assembling the Valve Body and Transfer Plate Three steel balls are used in the valve body and each must be installed in its correct position. Each is identified by its size as follows: Kickdown rod ball—large Manual valve lever detent ball—medium Throttle pressure check ball—small (1) Install reverse blocker valve and spring. Use new cotter pin. (2) Place manual valve in its bore. (3) Install shift valve. Install shift valve plug and tighten screws securely. (4) Place manual valve lever detent spring and ball in valve body and hold in position, as shown in Figure 56. While holding the detent ball, position the manual valve lever assembly so that the lever arm engages the manual valve (manual valve may be positioned to assist in this alignment) and the push button control cable adapter in direct alignment with the control cable adapter clip. (Refer to Figure 57.) At the same time, align the shoulder on the manual valve lever with the sleeve bore in the valve body so that the detent ball will engage the detent plate when finger presure on detent ball is released. (5) With finger pressure holding manual valve shoulder in bore, insert sleeve (short end) in bore, (up to stop ring). (6) Position throttle valve cam in sleeve, as shown in Figure 58, and lock in place with retainer. If retainer

Fig. 56—Holding Manual Valve Lever Detent Ball

DETENT BALL

Xx17J p. 57—Aligning Manual Valve Lever Assembly

Fig. 58—Placing Throttle Valve Cam Shaft in Sleeve

344

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL SERVO RESTRICTOR VALVE OPERATING PLUG

56x163! Fig. 59â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Indexing Throttle Valve Cam Shaft with Throttle Valve Operating Lever

is not placed in position at this time, the detent plate may move out of position, allowing the detent ball to escape from its bore. (7) Place valve body in stand, Tool C-3294. (8) Place kickdown rod into position in valve body. (9) Install the shift valve spring in valve body. (10) Install the shuttle valve in valve body. Coat stop ring lightly with transmission fluid and place into recess in valve body. (11) Place shuttle valve spring in valve body. (12) Place kickdown valve ball into valve body. (13) Place valve body end cover plate on end cover. Install the one short screw and lockwasher and tighten snugly. (14) Place adjustable shuttle valve plug into position in valve body end cover. Plug must fit to full depth of bore. (15) Install the kickdown valve spring in place in end cover. (16) Install valve body end cover to valve body. Make sure the shift valve, shuttle valve and kickdown valve springs are properly seated in position when cover is being installed. (17) Install the valve body end cover screw and lockwasher but do not torque. (18) Install the three (long) valve body end cover plate screws and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten to 24 to 30 inch-pounds torque. (19) Remove valve body from repair stand. Using wrench, Tool C-3279B, install throttle valve adjusting screw, and throttle valve operating lever assembly. Adjust to approximately 1-11/16 distance between the valve body and end of throttle valve adjusting screw. (20) Install throttle valve (point outward) in valve body. Place throttle valve spring and retainer over throttle valve. Swing throttle valve operating lever over

53x63 Fig. 60â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installing Servo Restrictor Plug

spring and retainer. Compressing the throttle operating lever assembly against the throttle valve spring, slide the throttle valve cam assembly into throttle valve operating lever, indexing the cam portion in slot of operating lever, as shown in figure 59. Replace throttle valve cam assembly return spring and replace valve body in stand. (21) Install servo bleed valve and throttle pressure check valve ball into position in valve body, and install guide studs, Tool C-3295. (22) Install the servo restrictor valve operating plug (long end first) into transfer plate (Figure 60). Make sure the pump check valves and springs are properly positioned in transfer plate. The pump check valve with the metering hole should be positioned, in end of transfer plate, that lies next to the manual valve. (23) Place the valve body plate flush into position on valve plate by compressing pump check valve springs. Make sure pump check valves enter transfer plate; otherwise, valve body plate will be damaged when assembly is drawn down onto valve body. (24) Keep sufficient pressure on transfer plate and valve body plate to hold them together. Place them over the guide studs and into position on valve body. (25) Place transfer plate cover into position and install two of the transfer plate cover screws and lockwashers (one each side) finger tight. Make sure pump check valves remain in position in body plate. (26) Remove guide studs and install the remaining transfer plate cover bolts and lockwashers. Tighten the bolts from 45 to 50 inch-pounds torque. Avoid overtightening as this will distort valve body, resulting in sticky valves. Operate pump check valves to make sure they can be unseated before final tightening.

Installing The Valve Body and Transfer Plate (1) Place "O" ring seal on throttle camshaft sleeve, then place valve body and transfer plate into position

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFLITE on transmission case. Install the five transfer plate bolts and lockwashers. Two bolts are 1 % inches long and go through the transfer plate cover on valve body. The other three a r e 1 ¼ inches long. Draw bolts down evenly and tighten to 12 to 17 foot-pounds torque. (2) Make sure the two oil strainer tube seals are in position on oil strainer, a n d place oil strainer assembly into position on valve body. Install the two oil strainer support bolts (1 ¼ inches long) a n d lockwashers. Tighten to 12 to 17 foot-pounds torque. (3) Replace oil p a n a n d gasket (new). Tighten oil pan bolts 12 to 17 foot-pounds torque. (4) Replace felt and felt retainer on throttle camshaft, then install throttle control lever assembly. Tighten lock screw securely. (5) Place engine rear support adapter into position on extension housing and install bolts and lockwashers. Tighten to 50 foot-pounds torque. (6) Remove transmission assembly from stand. Tool V^-O¿ÖU.

INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION IN VEHICLE Before installing transmission in vehicle. check torque converter hub run-out and housing alignment as outlined in the Torque Converter Section that follows the Transmission Section. (1) Install guide studs, Tool C-3276, in the two upper transmission case to converter housing bolt holes. (2) Lubricate front oil pump drive sleeve seal ring and bearing surface with transmission fluid. (3) Install drive sleeve in front oil pump housing (if not previously installed) m a k i n g sure driving l u g s are properly engaged in front oil pump pinion g e a r . Note position of driving lugs on front oil pump drive sleeve, and position accordingly, to aid in proper engagement with torque converter hub, when transmission is installed.

345

(4) Slide transmission over guide studs a n d into position against torque converter housing. To avoid dama g e to front oil pump, the transmission must be properly aligned. Do not attempt to use transmission to converter housing bolts to bring transmission and converter housings together. If oil pump drive sleeve and input shaft have been properly aligned, transmission should slide into position relatively easy. DO N O T FORCE it into position. (5) Install the two lower transmission case to converter housing bolts and lockwashers, but do not tighten, Remove guide studs and install the two upper transmission case to converter housing bolts and lockwashers. Draw all bolts down evenly and tighten 45 to 50 footpounds torque. (6) Place crossmember into position a n d install crossmember to torsion bar springs bracket bolts. Tighten bolts securely. (7) Lower engine, a n d align mounting holes in adapter with holes in crossmember. Install the two bolts and lockwashers that hold engine rear support to crossmember. Tighten bolts from 30 to 50 foot-pounds torque. Remove engine holding fixture. Tool C-3487. (8) Co™1^* throttle linkage to throttle lever, insert gearshift control cable into transmission, and adjust as outlined in "Transmission and Controls-Adjustments." Paragraph 4. Install neutral starting switch. Connect speedometer cable housing to drive pinion, Engage ball end of brake cable with brake operating lever, secure cable to support and tighten support screw securely (Refer to Brake section of this manual for method of adjusting handbrake). Connect propeller shaft and tighten nuts from 33 to 37 foot-pounds torque. Connect oil pan filler tube and refill transmission to proper level (refer to Lubrication Section of this manual), Connect battery and make all necessary adjustments and tests, as outlined in "Transmission and ControlsAdjustments" Paragraph 4.

TORQUEFLITE CONTENTS Assembly of Units in Transmission Case Cleaning and Inspection (Valve Bodies) Disassembly and Inspection (Valve Bodies) Disassembly, Inspection and Assembly of Component Parts Disassembly, Inspection and Assembly of Power Train Units General Information Installing Balance of Component Parts and Adjustments Installing Power Train Units in Transmission Case Installing the Valve Bodies Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests Reconditioning the Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Reconditioning Transmission Removal of Component Parts

Par. 10 14 15 7 8 — 12 11 16 1 — — 6

Page 403 411 411 390 392 347 407 406 415 366 410 381 381

ENGINE CRANKSHAFT

REAR CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE

TORQUE CONVERTER OVERRUNNING CLUTCH

K I C K D O W N BAND

TORQUE CONVERTER IMPELLER

INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING DUST SEAL

OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

INPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY

LOW-REVERSE BAND

REGULATOR VALVE BODY

REAR OIL PUMP

LOW-REVERSE BAND DRUM

FRONT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

EXTENSION

REVERSE ANNULUS GEAR

FRONT CLUTCH PISTON LEVER

GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY

TRANSMISSION CASE

FRONT CLUTCH PISTON

K I C K D O W N ANNULUS GEAR

SPEEDOMETER PINION

OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT

OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY

OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE HOUSING

K I C K D O W N PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY

REAR CLUTCH PISTON REAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY FRONT CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE TORQUE CONVERTER REACTION SHAFT FRONT OIL PUMP TORQUE CONVERTER STATOR

OIL STRAINER REVERSE SUN GEAR LOW-REVERSE PLANET PINION CARRIER ASSEMBLY

H A N D BRAKE ASSEMBLY

VALVE BODIES A N D TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY INTERMEDIATE SHAFT ASSEMBLY

TORQUE CONVERTER TURBINE

56x7O7A

Fig. 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;TorqueFlite Transmission and Torque Converter (Sectional View)

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

347

TORQUEFLITE CONTENTSâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;(Continued) Par.

Removal and Installation of Transmission Removing the Valve Bodies Servicing Component Parts With Transmission in Vehicle Servicing Gearshift Control Housing Servos, Bands and Miscellaneous Inspection Trouble Diagnosis Chart

Page

5 13 4 3 9 2

380 410 374 372 401 370

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION The Transmission (Figure 1) combines a torque converter and an automatic planetary gear box. The torque converter extends torque multiplication (2.7 at stall) over a wide range of engine speeds. The transmission consists of two multiple disc clutches, an overrunning clutch, two bands, and two planetary gear sets to provide three forward ratios and a reverse ratio. With the front or forward clutch engaged and low gear reaction, transferred through the transmission overrunning clutch assembly, a low ratio of 2.45 to 1 is obtained. Engagement of the kickdown or second speed band will shift the transmission to second speed ratio of 1.45 to 1. Disengagement of the kickdown band and engagement of the rear or direct clutch locks the gear set so that a direct drive ratio of 1 to 1 is obtained. Since the overrunning clutch can transmit torque only on the drive side, it is necessary to apply the low and reverse band when using low for engine braking. Reverse ratio of 2.20 to 1 is obtained by application of the rear clutch and rear band. In the drive range, the transmission shifts through all three gear ratios automatically. Shift points are determined by throttle opening and car speed. If additional acceleration is desired while in drive range, the transmission will downshift (depending on vehicle speed) to second gear or breakaway automatically when the accelerator pedal is completely depressed. The intermediate or second position range is used to operate the transmission in the first two gears only. This range is suitable for heavy city traffic where the driver may desire part throttle second gear operation for more precise speed control. It may also be used on long down grades where additional engine braking is needed. A low or first position range is also available to keep the transmission in first gear only. This position provides added handling ease in mountain driving and exceptional pulling qualities in sand and snow. Gearshift Control Unit The transmission is operated by a gearshift control unit consisting of five push buttons, identified by R

57x1501 Fig. 2â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Arrangement of Push Buttons

(reverse), N (neutral), D (drive), 2 (second) and 1 (low). (Refer to Figure 2.) The control unit is located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. Range selection is made by pushing the proper button. Should the R (reverse) button be pushed in, above approximately 10 M.P.H., it will move the manual control lever to the neutral position and when car speed drops below 10 M.P.H. it will again be necessary to reposition the R (reverse) push button. Mechanical connection between the gearshift control housing and the transmission manual control valve is obtained through the use of a single push-pull cable as shown in Figure 3. One end of the wire cable is secured to the cable actuator in the gearshift control housing, while the other end enters the adapter housing on the transmission case to engage the manual control valve lever assembly. When a button is pushed in, the slide contacts the cable actuator, causing it to pivot. Movement of the cable actuator about its axis moves the attached wire cable.

348

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL LOCK SPRINGS

UNLATCHED POSITION

LATCHED POSITION

NEUTRAL OPERATING AND ENGINE STARTING SLIDE OPERATING SLIDES

CONTROL CABLE ACTUATOR STARTING MOTOR SWITCH

TO TRANSMISSION

PUSH BUTTONS

57x174 FÂĄg. 3â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Gearshift Control Unit (Operational Sketch)

When the button nears its limit of travel, a lock on the button slide engages the actuator shaft. This action allows the slide lock to hold the button in the engaged position. (Refer to Figure 3.) When the operator pushes another button, to select a different range, the top or bottom portion (depending on which button was pushed) of the slide contacts the actuator, thereby releasing the first button from the restraint of the spring lock. The first button is then free to return (under spring force) to its original position. A back-up light switch (when so equipped) is incorporated in the gearshift control housing and is operated by the R (reverse) push button slide. A motor starting switch is also incorporated into the gearshift control housing. (Refer to Figure 3.) The car is started by turning the ignition switch to "ON" and pressing the N (neutral) push button beyond the neutral position to engage the motor starting switch. Should the car stall, it is restarted by fully depressing the N (neutral) push button. A vacuum switch, on the engine, prevents the starter from being energized should the N (neutral) push button be engaged while the engine is running. The starting motor is also wired so that the engine cannot be started unless the neutral starting switch (at the transmission) is closed. Engaging the N (neutral) button closes the starting motor circuit at the neutral

starting switch (Figure 21). The purpose of the neutral starting switch (on the transmission) is to prevent starting the engine while the transmission is in gear, as a result of improper gearshift control cable adjustment. Starting the Engine (1) As a safety precaution, apply hand or foot brake. (2) Turn ignition key to "ON" position. Depress accelerator slightly and push in the N (neutral) push button to limit of its travel. (3) When engine starts, release pressure on N (neutral) push button. (4) If engine fails to start, release pressure on N (neutral) push button momentarily before attempting to start engine again. Push Starting

If the engine fails to start in the normal manner, it may be started by pushing. Towing the car to start is not recommended due to the sudden surge of power when the engine starts. Turn the ignition switch on, then push the 1 (low) button in and depress the accelerator pedal slightly. After the vehicle has been pushed to a speed of 15 M.P.H. (approximately), the transmission will drive the engine. How To Drive The Car (1) When starting in extremely cold weather, allow

349

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFUTE the engine and transmission to warm up while in N (neutral) position. If the engine is cold (engine on fast idle), apply the foot brake lightly to prevent a tendency of vehicle to creep when making a push button selection. (2) D ( d r i v e ) . All normal forward driving will be done in this range. The vehicle will have a slight tendency to creep after pushing the button from N (neutral) to D (drive) at idle. This can be prevented by applying the foot brake lightly. As soon as the accelerator is depressed, the vehicle will move forward in the drive (breakaway) range. At a speed of approximately 9 to 35 M.P.H., depending on the amount the accelerator is depressed, the transmission will automatically upshift to second. At speeds of approximately 13 to 65 M.P.H., depending upon the amount the accelerator is depressed, the transmission will automatically upshift from second to direct. When slowing the vehicle down (at throttle openings short of wide open) the transmission will automatically downshift from direct to breakaway at approximately 8 M.P.H. (3) 2 (second) position provides driving characteristics similar to D (drive)—second speed except that the transmission will not upshift into direct at vehicle speeds below approximately 65 M.P.H. That is, as soon as accelerator is depressed, the vehicle will move forward in the drive (breakaway) range. At a speed of approximately 9 to 35 M.P.H., depending on the amount the accelerator is depressed (and car speed) the transmission will automatically upshift into second. If the vehicle is accelerated in second gear to the wide open throttle upshift speed, an upshift to direct will occur, thus eliminating over speeding the engine in second gear. If vehicle speed falls below 8 M.P.H. or the accelerator is completely depressed, at speeds below approximately 29 M.P.H., a transmission will automatically downshift to breakaway. It is possible to push the buttons from 2 (second) to D (drive) or D (drive) to 2 (second) at any speed; however, the transmission will not downshift to second gear if vehicle is above approximately 65 M.P.H. (4) 1 (low) provides driving characteristics similar to D (drive—breakaway) except that the transmission will not upshift into any other range regardless of vehicle speed. To prevent over-speeding of engine, do not operate vehicle above 40 M.P.H. in 1 (low) position. It is possible to push the buttons from 1 (low) to D (drive) and D (drive) to 1 (low) at any speed; however, the transmission will not downshift to low if vehicle is above approximately 29 M.P.H. (5) R ( r e v e r s e ) . Stop the vehicle and with foot brake lightly applied, push the R (reverse) button in. (6) Kickdown (forced downshift). At speeds below approximately 29 M.P.H., in D (drive) or 2 (second), after the transmission has upshifted, maximum acceleration can be obtained for passing or climbing a

steep grade by completely depressing the accelerator. This will cause the transmission to downshift to breakaway. The transmission will automatically upshift to second if the accelerator is released or a speed of approximately 42 M.P.H. is reached. In D (drive) range from second speed, the transmission will automatically upshift into direct if the accelerator is partially released or a speed of approximately 71 M.P.H. is reached. If vehicle is accelerated in 2 (second) position to the wide open throttle upshift speed, an upshift to direct will occur thus eliminating over-speeding the engine in second gear. (7) Kickdown (forced downshift). At speeds between 27 to 60 M.P.H. (approximately) in D (drive) position after the transmission has upshifted into direct, maximum acceleration can be obtained for passing by completely depressing the accelerator. This will cause the transmission to downshift to second. The transmission will automatically upshift to direct if the accelerator is released or a speed of approximately 71 M.P.H. is reached. Transmission Inoperative—Tow the vehicle with a rear end pickup or remove the propeller shaft. Transmission Operating Properly—The vehicle may be towed safely in N (neutral) at moderate speeds. For long distance towing (over 100 miles), the propeller shaft should be removed. The Planetary Gear Set Construction The planetary gear set as shown in Figure 4 consists of: (1) An annulus or internal gear. (2) A planet pinion carrier with three planet pinion gears. (3) A sun gear. The annulus gear surrounds and meshes with the planet pinion gears. The planet pinion gears are free to rotate on the planet pinion shafts in the planet pinion carrier. The sun gear rotates inside and is also meshed with the planet pinions. ANNULUS Gt/»

PLANET P!NtON GEAR

Fig. 4—Planetary Gear Set

350

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

- SUN GEAR HB.D

Fig. 5—Planetary Gear Set (Sun Gear Held— Gear Reduction)

Fig. 7—Planetary Gear Set (Annulus and Sun Gear Locked)—Direct

Operation A planetary gear set may be used to increase torque and reduce speed. This is done by holding the sun gear and driving the annulus gear as shown in Figure 5. The annulus gear will turn the planet pinion gears on their shafts and at the same time cause the planet pinion gears to move around the sun gear. The planet pinion carrier will, therefore, be forced to rotate in the same direction as the annulus but at a slower speed. The gear set in this case operates as a speed-reducing, torque-increasing device. Further reduction may be obtained by adding planetary gear sets and providing a means of holding various members to obtain proper ratios. The direction of rotation may be reversed by use of a planetary gear set. By holding the planet pinion carrier stationary and driving the sun gear, the planet pinion gears will rotate on their shafts (Figure 6). Because the planet pinion carrier cannot move, the planet pinion gears operate as idlers and transmit the torque to the annulus gear. This drives the annulus gear in the reverse direction at reduced speed but with increased torque. If any two members of a planetary gear set are locked together (as the annulus gear and sun gear in the case

illustrated in Figure 7) a direct or 1 to 1 drive is obtained. There is no movement between the gears. If no two members are locked together and no member is held from rotating, no torque will be transmitted. This provides neutral operation. Overrunning Clutch

The overrunning clutch consists of a cam, cam rollers, com springs, and a clutch hub. The cam, which provides the ramps, is riveted to the intermediate support so that it is prevented from turning. The overrunning clutch hub is splined in the low-reverse band drum with the reverse planet pinion carrier assembly. Connection between the cam and hub is obtained through the rollers. When torque is applied to the reverse planet pinion carrier and overrunning clutch hub by the sun gear, the clutch rollers are forced outward into a wedding contact by the ramps in the cam, thus holding the planet pinion carrier. If the driving force is removed, the rollers are released from their wedding contact and the overrunning clutch will coast. The overrunning clutch is used in the 1-2 upshift, normal 2-1 downshift, and forced 2-1 and 3-1 downshifts. For 1 (low) range operation, the low-reverse band is applied, holding the reverse planet pinion carrier stationary, thus preventing the overrunning clutch from coasting. Power Flow In The Transmission

Fig. 6—Planetary Gear Set (Planet Pinion Carrier Held)—Reverse

D (Drive) Position—Breakaway (See Figure 8) The power flow is from the converter turbine through the input shaft and front clutch retainer (one unit). The front clutch is applied and the drive continues through the clutch hub to the intermediate shaft and kickdown annulus gear (one unit). The kickdown annulus gear drives the kickdown planet pinion gears, rotating them in the same direction. The kickdown planet gears are meshed with the kickdown sun gear which in turn is integral with the reverse sun gear. Both sun gears are forced to rotate in a reverse direction by the reaction of the kickdown planet pinion carrier together with the

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

351

OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH (LOCKS WHILE DRIVING FREE WHILE COASTING)

FRONT CLUTCH APPLIED

DRIVE POSITION-BREAKAWAY

56x689

Fig. 8—Power Flow in D (Drive) Position—Breakaway

reverse annulus gear, both of which are splined to the output shaft drive housing. The reverse planet pinion carrier is attached to and prevented from turning backward by an overrunning clutch and becomes stationary in forward drive (overruns on coast). Therefore, the reverse carrier pinions are forced to rotate in a forward direction and force the reverse annulus to rotate in the same direction transmitting the power flow to the output shaf with the combined ratio of the kickdown and reverse planetary gear sets of 2.45 to 1. D (Drive) Position—2nd Speed and 2 (Second) Position—2nd Speed (See Figure 9) The power flow is from the torque converter turbine through the input shaft to the front clutch (which is applied). From the front clutch through the intermediate shaft to the annulus gear of the kickdown (rear) planetary FRONT CLUTCH APPLIED

gear set. The kickdown band is applied which holds the sun gear stationary. The annulus gear drives the kickdown planet pinions which rotate in the same direction as the input and intermediate shafts. The kickdown planet pinions are meshed with the sun gear; therefore, they walk around this gear and exert force through the kickdown planet pinion shafts to rotate the kickdown planet pinion carrier. The carrier, which is splined to the output shaft drive housing, moves at a slower speed than the annulus gear, thus providing a gear ratio of 1.45 to 1. D (Drive) Position-Direct (See Figure 10) The power flow from the torque converter goes directly through the transmission because the planetary elements of the gear train are locked up by two multiple disc clutches and both bands are released. The torque converter provides all of the torque multiplication. KICKDOWN BAND APPLIED

DRIVE POSITION-2ND ALSO 2ND SPEED IN 2ND POSITION Fig. 9—Power Flow in D (Drive) Position—2nd Speed and 2 (Second) Position—2nd Speed

56x690

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

352

FRONT AND REAR CLUTCHES APPLIED i

DRIVE POSITION-DIRECT DRIVE

56x688

Fig. 10—Power Flow in D (Drive) Position—Direct FRONT CLUTCH APPLIED

LOW AND REVERSE BAND APPLIED

LOW POSITION 1 LOW SPEED

56x691

Fig. 11—Power Flow in 1 (Low) Position—Low Speed

REAR CLUTCH APPLIED"^

LOW AND REVERSE BAND APPLIED REVERSE POSITION

Fig. 12—Power Flow in R (Reverse) Position

56x692

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFLITE K¡ckdown (Forced Downshift) in D (Drive) Position B e l o w 2 5 M.P.H. This will force the transmission to downshift and the power flow will be the same as D (drive) position (breakaway). Kickdown (Forced Downshift) In D (Drive) Position 2 5 to 7 0 M.P.H. This will force the transmission to downshift and the power flow will be the same as D (drive) position 2nd speed. 1 (Low) P o s i t i o n — L o w S p e e d ( S e e F i g u r e 11) In 1 (low) position the power flow is the same as D (drive) position (breakaway) or 2 (second) position (breakaway) with one exception, the low-reverse band is applied, locking the overrunning clutch to provide engine braking.

is from the torque converter turbine through the input shaft to the rear clutch hub (part of the front clutch retainer). The rear clutch is splined to the reverse sun gear. The carrier of the reverse (front) planetary gear set is held stationary by the low-reverse band; therefore, the set acts as a simple reverse train through the reverse planet pinions to the reverse annulus (which is splined to the output shaft drive housing), and provides a reverse ratio of 2.20 to 1.

R (Reverse) Position (See Figure 12) The rear clutch and the low-reverse band are applied. All other friction elements are released. The power flow Range

353

N (Neutral) Position All friction elements are released. Hence, there is no drive connection between the engine and the rear wheels. Power Flow Summary The chart summarizes power flow conditions in the various ranges as regards to gear train elements involved and the ratios obtained.

Ratio

Element Applied

D (Drive) position—(breakaway)

2.45

Front Clutch and Overrunning Clutch

D (Drive) position—second speed, 2 (Second) position—second speed

1.45

Front Clutch and Kickdown (Front) Band

D (Drive) position—direct

1.00

Front and Rear Clutches

R (Reverse) position

2.20

Rear Clutch and Low-Reverse (Rear) Band

1 (Low) position—low speed

2.45

Front Clutch and Low-Reverse (Rear) Band

N (Neutral) Hydraulic Control System (Refer to Figures (13 through 19). The hydraulic control system must furnish oil under pressure and route it at the proper time and rate to the proper piston device for engaging the transmission in the desired gear. This system is composed of different parts whose functions are interrelated. In a general way, the components of any automatic control system may be grouped into the following basic components or units: (1) The pressure supply system. (2) The clutches and band servos. (3) The pressure regulating valves. (4) The flow control valves. Taking each of these basic components or units in turn, the control system may be described as follows: The Pressure Supply System Front Pump Under all normal operation conditions (up to a forward speed of approximately 35 M.P.H.) the front pump, driven at engine speed, provides oil needed for torque converter pressure, control pressures, and lubrication. The front pump delivers oil at 90 P.S.I, to fulfill these

No Elements Applied conditions and also satisfy the normal amount of internal leakage in the transmission at all engine speeds above approximately 700 R.P.M. In reverse, the front pump pressure is increased to 225 P.S.I, in order to handle the high torque loads imposed during reverse operation. Rear Pump The rear pump (smaller than the front pump and driven by the output shaft) furnishes all of the oil required by the transmission in normal driving at all vehicle speeds above approximately 35 M.P.H. Rear pump oil pressure is routed to the regulator valve body through a drilled passage in the transmission case. The front clutch and low-reverse band are applied by the oil pressure developed by the rear pump when the engine is started by pushing. Clutches and Band Servos Front Clutch The front clutch transmits full engine and converter torque in all forward drive positions. The front clutch piston is moved hydraulically to engage the multiple disc clutch in all forward speeds. The clutch piston is

Uì REV. a DIRECT CLUTCH

ñ Z

LUBRICATION (OIL COOLER-IF SO EQUIPPED)

LEGEND

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B-C-DE ARE METERING HOLES

GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN NEUTRAL ENGINE RUNNING

BLUE (LINE)-90 P.S.I. BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I. YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30 P.S.I. YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-30 P.S.I.

56X700A

Fig. 13—Hydraulic Circuit—N (Neutral)

REV. a OIRECT CLUTCH

C/> t/»

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B¯C-DE ARE METERING HOLES

GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN DRIVE (BREAKAWAY) HALF THROTTLE

LEGEND BLUE (LINE)-90 P.S.I. BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I. YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30 P.S.I. YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-3O P.S.I. GREEN (THROTTLE)-0-90 P.S.I. BROWN (GOVERNOR)-0-90 P.S.I. BROWN DOT (GOVERNOR COMPENSATOR)¯ 0-90 P.S.I. 56X701A

Hydraulic Circuit—D (Drive)—Breakaway

8 8 m 73

LUBRICATION (OIL COOLER-IF SO EQUIPPED)

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B-C¯D-E ARE METERING HOLES

GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN DRIVE (SECOND) HALF THROTTLE

LEGEND BLUE (LINE)-90 P.S.I. BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I. YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30 P.S.I. YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-30 P.S.I. GREEN (THROTTLE)-0-90 P.S.I. GREEN DOT (THROTTLE COMPENSATOR)30-90 P.S.I. BROWN (GOVERNOR)-0-90 P.S.I. BROWN DOT (GOVERNOR COMPENSATOR)0-90 P.S.I. 56X7O2A

Fig. 15—Hydraulic Circuit—D (Drive)—Second

REV. a DIRECT CLUTCH

3O >

o c

<=3. LUBRICATION (OIL COOLER-IF SO EQUIPPED)

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B¯C-DE ARE METERING HOLES

GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN DRIVE (DIRECT)

LEGEND BLUE (LlNE)-90 P.S.I. BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I. YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30 P.S.I. YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-30 P.S.I. GREEN (THROTTLE)-0-90 P.S.I. GREEN DOT (THROTTLE COMPENSATOR)30-90 P.S.I. BROWN (GOVERNOR)-0-90 P.S.I. BROWN DOT (GOVERNOR COMPENSATOR)0-90 P.S.I. 56X7O3A

Fig. 16—Hydraulic Circuit—D (Drive)—Direct

00 REV. 0 DIRECT CLUTCH

o O m 70

SERVO LUBRICATION (OIL COOLER-IF SO EQUIPPED)

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B-C¯D€ ARE METERING HOLES

GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN LOW (COAST) BELOW 25 M.RH.

LEGEND BLUE (LINE)-90 P.S.I. BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I. YELLOW (C0NVERTER)-30 P.S.I. YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-30 P.S.I. GREEN (THROTTLE)-0-90 P.S.I. BROWN (GOVERNOR)-0-90 P.S.I. BROWN DOT (GOVERNOR COMPENSATOR)¯ 0-90 P.S.I. 56X7O4A

Fig. 17—Hydraulic Circuit—1 (Low)—Low

REV. ¾ DIRECT CLUTCH

70 >

§ o

<=3 LUBRICATION (OIL COOLER-IF SO EQUIPPED)

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B·C¯D·E ARE METERING HOLES

GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN SECOND (COAST) BELOW 74 M.RH.

Fig. 18—Hydraulic Circuit—2 (Second)—Second

Uì

s REV. a DIRECT CLUTCH

O to

> ¢=d

SERVO

LUBRICATION (OIL COOLER-IF SO EQUIPPED)

LEGEND

OIL STRAINER

NOTE: A-B¯C-D¯E ARE METERING HOLES

BLUE DOT (PUMP SUCTION)-0-5 P.S.I. YELLOW (CONVERTER)-30 P.S.I. YELLOW DOT (LUBE)-10-30 P.S.I. RED (LINE)-225 P.S.I. GOVERNOR

CONTROL SYSTEM IN REVERSE

56X7O6A

Fig. 19—Hydraulic Circuit—R (Reverse)

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

released by means of the clutch return spring when feed of the control pressure is discontinued. In order to develop the required capacity, a system of levers (4) is used to actuate the clutch apply plate. Although no pressure is applied to the front clutch piston in reverse or neutral, oil is present in the clutch piston chamber. With high rotative speeds of the clutch retainer in reverse or neutral, it is possible to build up sufficient centrifugal oil pressure to move the clutch piston. To eliminate the possibility of clutch drag caused by such movement, the clutch check valve ball is unseated by centrifugal force and the oil in the chamber is allowed to escape. For normal application of the clutch, the flow of oil under controlled pressure into the clutch piston chamber is sufficient to seat the clutch check valve ball. Rear Clutch The rear clutch locks the gear train for direct drive operation in the forward range and transmits full input torque to the gear train in reverse operation. Rear clutch operation is similar to that of the front clutch. When making the power upshift from second to direct, the engagement of the clutch and disengagement of the kickdown band is accomplished by application of controlled pressure. Kickdown Servo The kickdown piston actuates the kickdown band through the kickdown lever, strut, and anchor, holding the sun gear of the rear planetary set stationary and resulting in a forward ratio of 1.45 to 1 through the rear planetary gear set. The kickdown piston is hydraulically applied in 2 (second) and D (drive) second (kickdown) by two controlled pressuresâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;line pressure and throttle compensator pressure-acting on separate areas. In N (neutral), 1 (low), D (drive) breakaway, and R (reverse) the kickdown piston is held released by the kickdown piston spring, there being no pressures applied to the kickdown piston at these times. In the D (drive) range, for the automatic upshift from second to direct drive, the kickdown piston is released by controlled pressure acting on the "off" area of the kickdown piston. The force of the pressure on the "off" area, assisted by the kickdown piston spring, is sufficient to overcome the forces of line pressure and throttle compensator pressure acting on the apply side of the kickdown piston. Application of the kickdown piston when shifting from breakaway to second is softened by the accumulator. Low-Reverse Servo The low-reverse servo has two functions which are performed independently. The low-reverse servo piston is moved hydraulically to apply the low-reverse band

361

through the low-reverse band lever, strut, and anchor. The results are: (1) To hold the carrier of the front planetary gear set stationary while the rear clutch (applied) drives the sun gear. This provides a reverse ratio of 2.20 to 1 through the front planetary gear set, as shown in Figure 12. (2) To hold the carrier of the front planetary gear set stationary while the front clutch (applied) drives the intermediate shaft and kickdown annulus. This provides the 1 (low) range operation at a ratio of 2.45 to 1 through both planetary gear sets (see Figure 11) which may be used for engine braking. Initial engagement of the low-reverse servo (when shifting from neutral to low or reverse) is softened by compression of the lowreverse servo cushion spring. The servo piston is released by a return spring when the source of apply pressure is discontinued.

Accumulator An accumulator cushions the application of the kickdown band in the upshift from breakaway to second. It is connected in parallel and to the passage which supplies line pressure to the apply side of the kickdown servo. In neutral and reverse the accumulator piston is held released by the accumulator spring, there being no pressure applied to the piston at these times. In the D (drive) range, for the automatic upshift from breakaway to second, the accumulator piston is again moved by line pressure (kickdown servo apply) acting on the large end of the piston. The force of line pressure assisted by the accumulator spring is sufficient to overcome the force of line pressure (front clutch) which is acting on the small area of the accumulator piston. This action cushions the application of the kickdown band. Pressure Regulating Valves

Regulator Valve The regulator valve controls line pressure at a value of approximately 90 P.S.I, for all operating conditions except reverse. Line pressure, which is supplied by the front pump (at car speeds under 35 M.P.H.) is routed directly to a primary reaction area in the regulator valve body. For all conditions except reverse, line pressure is also routed through the front valve body to the secondary reaction area. A line pressure of 90 P.S.I, (acting on the two reaction areas) is sufficient to overcome the force of the regulator valve spring and move the valve to the position that will allow oil to flow through a restricting hole in the regulator valve body to the torque converter. If the oil flow from the front pump exceeds the amount necessary to feed the torque converter and transmission, line pressure will rise slightly, causing the regulator valve to move to a new position where excess oil from

362

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

the front pump pressure port is allowed to dump into the front pump suction port. Above a car speed of approximately 35 M.P.H., the rear pump furnishes the oil needed by the torque converter and transmission at a line pressure of 90 P.S.I. When this condition is reached, the pressure increases slightly and the regulator valve moves over to a new position where the excess flow is dumped from the line pressure post into the front pump suction port. Under this condition the front pump check valve closes and all of the oil pumped from the front pump is dumped back through the large valve opening into the front pump suction port. Thus the front pump turns with reduced effort since it is operating at a low pressure. For reverse operation, oil must be at a pressure of 225 P.S.I. This is accomplished by shutting off the source of line pressure to the secondary reaction area, with the result that a line pressure of 225 P.S.I, applied to the primary reaction area is required to overcome the force of the regulator valve spring. Torque Converter Control Valve This valve maintains an oil pressure of 30 P.S.I, within the torque converter. Oil is fed from the regulator valve through a restricting hole in the regulator valve body to the torque converter. The oil flows through the torque converter and returns to the regulator valve body where the converter pressure is regulated by the torque converter control valve. When the torque converter pressure rises to 30 P.S.I., the control valve will move against the spring load and allow oil to flow to the lubrication circuit. Torque converter pressure acts on the valve's reaction area such that if it exceeds 60 P.S.I., the valve is moved further against the spring load, permitting excess oil from the converter to by-pass into the oil pan. From the torque converter control valve, oil is routed through the transmission lubrication system to lubricate the gear train. Governor Valve The governor valve assembly transmits a hydraulic pressure to the transmission which is proportional to car speed. This governed pressure, in conjunction with throttle pressure, controls upshift and downshift speeds. The governor is so mounted on the output shaft that when the output shaft rotates, the governor weight assembly exerts a centrifugal force on the governor shaft. The governor shaft transmits this force to the governor valve. Oil is allowed to flow from the line pressure port to the governor pressure port, building up pressure in the governor circuit and against the valve reaction area sufficient to balance the centrifugal force of the weight. The greater the vehicle speed, the greater is the centrifugal force of the weights, and hence the greater the governor pressure necessary to balance the centrifugal force. If the vehicle speed decreases, the decrease

in centrifugal force allows the valve to move out slightly, venting excess oil and bringing the governor once more in balance at a lower pressure. The governor weight assembly is constructed so that for vehicle speeds under approximately 25 M.P.H., both weights act as a unit, with the result that small changes in vehicle speed result in comparatively large changes in centrifugal force and governor pressure. Above approximately 25 M.P.H., the primary weight moves outward against the preload of the spring and bottoms against the snap ring leaving only the secondary weight active. Small variations in vehicle speed above approximately 25 M.P.H., therefore, result in only small variations in governor pressure. Governor pressure is routed to the governor pressure ports of the governor compensator valve, shuttle valve, and the 2-3 shift valve governor plug. Governor Compensator Valve This valve is designed to produce a pressure relative to governor pressure to fulfill the requirements of the 1-2 shift pattern. The governor compensator valve train consists of valve, spring and plug. The governor compensator valve allows oil to flow from the line pressure port to the governor compensator valve pressure port. Governor pressure acts on one end of the compensator valve while the plug (with governor compensator and line pressure) acts on the other. At low vehicle speeds (low governor pressure) the plug is inactive, and the governor compensator pressure is approximately 2 Â˝ times greater than governor pressure. As vehicle speed increases, governor compensator pressure will move the plug against the valve. When governor compensator pressure reaches 40 P.S.I., approximately 20 M.P.H., the plug becomes active. When this happens the governor compensator pressure then becomes approximately 1 Âź times greater than governor pressure. Governor compensator pressure is routed to the 1-2 shift valve governor plug. Throttle Valve Ths throttle valve assembly transmits a hydraulic pressure to the transmission which is proportional to the amount of throttle opening. The throttle valve lever shaft is rotated in proportion to the amount of throttle opening of the carburetor by a linkage connecting the throttle valve lever shaft to the car's throttle linkage. The throttle valve lever shaft positions the kickdown valve and throttle valve spring in accordance with the amount of carburetor throttle opening, the spring being free (no load) at closed throttle and compressed at wide open throttle. Therefore, the throttle valve spring exerts a force on the throttle valve that increases with carburetor throttle opening. The throttle valve allows oil to flow from the line pressure port to the throttle pressure port, which is connected

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFLITE by a passage to the reaction area of the throttle valve. Throttle pressure will build up in the throttle pressure circuit and against the reaction area until it reaches a value great enough to balance the force of the throttle valve spring. If throttle pressure builds up too high, the throttle valve will move s l i g h t l y to a position such that excess oil is allowed to escape through the vent port. Throttle pressure will vary with the amount of carburetor throttle opening from a value of 0 (zero) pressure at closed throttle to a value of approximately 90 P.S.I, at wide open throttle. Throttle pressure is routed to the following places: (1) Throttle pressure port of the kickdown valve. (2) Throttle pressure port of the throttle compensator valve. (3) Through check valve to throttle pressure port of the shuttle valve plug. (4) To the throttle pressure port of the 3-1 relay valve. (5) To the throttle pressure port of the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug. (6) To the throttle pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug.

Throttle Compensator Valve The throttle compensator valve amplifies the variations in throttle pressure. It allows oil to flow from the line pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve (in the upshifted position) to the throttle compensator valve pressure port. Throttle compensator pressure is controlled by throttle pressure and spring force acting on one end of the valve against a reaction area fed by compensator pressure. Throttle compensator pressure will vary with the amount of carburetor throttle opening from a value of approximately 30 P.S.I, at closed throttle to a value of 90 P.S.I, at approximately Âž throttle. This arrangement makes it possible to more closely obtain the variations required for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Throttle compensator pressure is routed to the throttle compensator pressure area of the kickdown servo.

Flow Control Valves Front and Rear Pump Check Valves The front pump check valve prevents back flow from line pressure into the pressure side of the pump when the pump is either stationary or merely circulating oil at a very low pressure. The rear pump check valve allows oil to flow from the rear pump into the control system of the transmission. However, due to the metering hole in the valve, it restricts back flow from line pressure into the pressure side of the pump when the pump is stationary or rotating backwards. The front and rear pump check valves are combined as a leaf spring unit and mounted in the regulator valve body behind the front pump.

363 Manual Valve

The manual valve selects the different transmission drive ranges as dictated by the vehicle operator. The manual valve is moved by a cable which is connected to the push button control unit on the instrument panel. It is held in these positions by the force of a springloaded detent ball. When the N (neutral) button is pushed in, the manual valve is positioned so that line pressure from the regulator valve is routed to the secondary and primary reaction areas of the regulator valve. Line pressure is, therefore, 90 P.S.I, but neither the bands nor the clutches are applied. When the R (reverse) button is pushed in, the manual valve shuts off line pressure to the secondary reaction area of the regulator valve and routes line pressure (at 225 P.S.I.) to the rear clutch and low-reverse servo. When the D (drive) button is pushed in, the manual valve is positioned to route line pressure to the following places: (1) The secondary reaction area of the regulator valve (making line pressure 90 P.S.I.). (2) The line pressure port of the throttle valve. (3) The line pressure ports of the governor compensator valve and plug. (4) The line pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve and through metering hote "A" to the line pressure port of the 2-3 shift valve. (5) Through metering hole "C" to the line pressure area of the accumulator and front clutch. When the 2 (second) button is pushed in, the manual valve routes line pressure to the same places as in D (drive) and to the following additional places: (1) Through ball check valve to the kickdown pressure port of the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug. (2) Through ball check valve to the throttle pressure port of the shuttle valve plug. When the L (low) button is pushed in, the manual valve routes line pressure to the same places as in 2 (second) and the following additional places: (1) The low pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve governor plug and through the ball check valve to the low-reverse servo. (2) Through ball check valve to the kickdown pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug.

1-2 Shift Valve This valve determines whether the transmission is either in low gear ratio or second gear ratio, depending upon whether the valve is in the upshifted or downshifted position. The 1-2 shift valve train (consisting of shift valve kickdown plug, valve spring, shift valve and governor plug) is normally at either extreme of its travel. With the valve train downshifted (at the extreme of travel toward the governor compensator pressure end

364

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

of the rear valve body) any oil in the kickdown servo apply area is allowed to escape through the vent port. When the shift valve train is moved to the opposite extreme of its travel, the vent port is closed off and oil is fed by line pressure to the following places: (1) 3-1 relay valve. (2) Line pressure port of the shuttle valve. (3) Line pressure port of the throttle compensator valve. (4) Through servo pressure bleed valve "D" to the kickdown servo apply presure port of the shuttle valve. (5) The apply area of the kickdown servo. (6) The accumulator. (7) Line pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug. The kickdown piston and accumulator are so designed that the value of the "balance pressure" is sufficient to complete a smooth band application during the time required to stop the rear clutch retainer. After completion of the 1-2 shift, the servo apply pressure rises further to the value of line pressure, providing a "safety margin" of band load. At light throttle (low throttle pressure), the shift valve is made to upshift at approximately 10 M.P.H. and "balance pressure" is at a low value corresponding to the small force of throttle compensator pressure on the kickdown piston. The resulting band application load is, therefore, in proportion to the light throttle engine output. At wide open throttle (90 P.S.I, throttle pressure), the shift valve upshifts at approximately 40 M.P.H. and throttle compensator presure is at a high value, applying the band at a load corresponding to a high engine output. With the 1-2 shift valve train in the upshifted position, throttle pressure is not allowed to act on the end of the shift valve. Instead, any oil trapped in that area is allowed to vent through the drilled hole in the shift valve. The shift valve spring then exerts the only force on the "throttle pressure end" of the shift valve. At throttle openings less than wide open, the shift valve will downshift to breakaway when vehicle speed drops to a point where the governor compensator pressure can no longer overcome the force of the shift valve spring. This downshift occurs at a vehicle sped of approximately 7-11 M.P.H. All that.is required of the 1-2 shift valve for low range operation is that it must downshift below kickdown limit in response to the movement of the push button to low position and remain downshifted regardless of vehicle speed. The shift valve is forced to downshift by the application of line pressure from the low port of the manual valve around the ball cheGk valve to the kickdown pressure port of the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug. To insure that the shift valve remains downshifted regardless of car speed, line pressure is also allowed to

flow to the low port of the 1-2 shift valve governor plug. It is necessary that whenever the forces of governor pressure and throttle pressure act on the shift valve to cause an upshift, the valve must "snap" from one position to the other without hesitating or "hunting." This is accomplished by a differential area which is subjected to supply pressure when the valve is upshifted. When the valve is upshifted, throttle pressure is cut off so that normal downshifts are not throttle sensitive. 2-3 Shift Valve This shift valve automatically shifts the transmission from intermediate to direct gear. The 2-3 shift valve train is similar in construction and operation to the 1-2 shift valve train, in that it is controlled by governor and throttle pressures and spring force. When the valve train is in the upshifted position, oil is fed by line pressure through metering hole "A" to the following places: (1) 3-1 relay valve. (2) Through or around metering hole "e" (depending on shuttle valve position) to the "off" area of the kickdown servo and through the ball check valve to the rear clutch piston. With the shift valve downshifted (at the extreme of travel toward the governor pressure end of the rear valve body) any oil in the rear clutch chamber and the kickdown servo "off" area is allowed to escape through the vent port. 3-1 Relay Valve This valve assures a 3-1 downshift. The 3-1 relay valve is a valve arranged so that the 2-3 shift valve is coupled to the 1-2 shift valve during downshift at light throttle. Under these conditions, line pressure from the 2-3 shift valve acting on the 3-1 relay valve overcomes the forces of throttle and spring pressure moving the valve to the throttle pressure end. In this position, line pressure from the 1-2 shift valve is permitted to act on the 2-3 shift valve governor plug forcing it against governor pressure to the downshift position and on the governor plug end of the 2-3 shift valve holding the 2-3 shift valve in the upshift position regardless of governor pressure. As car speed decreases and governor compensator pressure can no longer overcome the force of the 1-2 shift valve spring, the two shift valves will downshift at the same time resulting in a smooth 3-1 downshift. Kickdown Valve The kickdown valve makes possible a forced downshift from direct to secondâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;second to breakaway and direct to breakaway by depressing the accelerator pedal past the detent "feel" near wide open throttle. It is desirable to limit the maximum vehicle speed at which kickdowns may be made (approximately 70 M.P.H. from drive to second and approximately 25 M.P.H. from drive or second to breakaway.) The kickdown detent plug on the stem of the kickdown valve

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE supplies the resistance necessary for a detent "feel" at kickdown. With the kickdown valve in the kickdown position, throttle pressure is routed to the following places: (1) Through ball check valve to the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug. (2) Through ball check valve to the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug. This pressure, when applied to the end of the kickdown plugs, is great enough to make the shift valves downshift against the force of any governor, or governor compensator pressure up to the kickdown limit speeds.

Shuttle Valve. Shuttle Valve Plug, and Servo Pressure Bleed Valve The shuttle valve has two separate functions and perform each independently of the other. The first is that of providing fast and smooth rear clutch engagement when the driver makes a "lift-foot" upshift from second to direct. The "lift-foot" upshift is made by accelerating the vehicle in breakaway or second gear and then returning the accelerator pedal to closed throttle. Without the shuttle valve, the resulting upshift to direct would consist of a series of lurches, caused first by the braking effect on the vehicle of the second gear and then by the harsh engagement of the rear clutch. Under conditions of closed throttle (no throttle pressure) and moderate vehicle speed (moderate governor pressure) the shuttle valve and shuttle valve plug are forced to their extreme of travel (toward the throttle end of the front valve body). In this position, oil is allowed to flow from the kickdown servo apply pressure port to the rear clutch pressure port and kickdown servo "off" area. Because the line pressure apply area of the kickdown servo is being fed oil only through the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve, pressure on this area drops to a low value while oil from the 2-3 shift valve builds up pressure on the rear clutch and the "off" area of the kickdown servo. The kickdown band load is then reduced sufficiently to allow a smooth band release. In the meantime, pressure in the rear clutch has built up sufficiently to complete a smooth engagement. The second function of the shuttle valve is to regulate the application of the kickdown piston when making high speed (above approximately 30 M.P.H.) kickdowns. Kickdowns made at low vehicle speeds require very little time in which to complete the shift due to the comparatively small change in engine speed between direct and kickdown gear. The higher the vehicle speed at which the kickdown is made, the longer is the time required to make a smooth shift. The force of the shuttle valve spring is great enough so that the combined force of line pressure on the shuttle valve reaction area and governor pressure (at vehicle

365

speeds under approximately 30 M.P.H.) on the governor pressure area cannot move the shuttle valve toward the shuttle valve plug. Thus, for kickdowns below 30 M.P.H., oil is fed to the line pressure area of the kickdown servo through both the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve and the line pressure and servo pressure ports of the shuttle valve. Speed of kickdown piston application is then at its maximum. As further insurance against the engine "running away" during low speed kickdowns, rear clutch disengagement is delayed while the kickdown piston is applying the band. This is accomplished by the introduction of a restriction (metering hole "E") placed such that oil is "backed up" into the clutch chamber as the kickdown piston moves on. This "back up" pressure is greatest on low speed kickdowns when the kickdown piston applies rapidly and is sufficient to hold the clutch applied until the kickdown band is applied. At this time, the kickdown piston can no longer force oil into the clutch and the pressure is allowed to fall to zero. For kickdowns at higher vehicle speeds, governor pressure attains a sufficient value to move the shuttle valve toward the shuttle valve plug, cutting off the feed of line pressure to the shuttle valve. Oil must then flow to the apply pressure area of the kickdown servo only through the hole in the servo pressure bleed valve. Kickdown piston application is, therefore, retarded. If on high speed kickdown, the servo pressure drops below the proper value (due to restricted flow through the servo pressure bleed valve hole) the drop in force of servo pressure on the shuttle valve reaction area causes the shuttle valve to move back toward the governor pressure end of the valve body, allowing enough oil to flow from the line pressure area of the shuttle valve to maintain servo pressure at the desired value during servo piston application. Operational Summary With the D (drive) button pushed in, the manual valve is positioned to give the full range of operation of the transmission. With the manual valve in the drive position, the front clutch is pressurized and the transmission will transmit drive torque in breakaway. At a speed which is dependent on throttle position (approximately 7-11 M.P.H. at closed throttle, 19-24 M.P.H. at detent, 27-42 M.P.H. at wide open throttle), the transmission automatically upshifts to second gear. The change is initiated by movement of the 1-2 shift valve to the upshifted position so that pressure is directed to the apply side of the kickdown servo. When the kickdown band develops sufficient capacity to slow the rear clutch retainer, the overrunning clutch starts to free roll, so release of the previous reaction member is automatic. The band application during the shift is controlled by action of the accumulator.

366

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

At a speed which is again dependent on throttle position (approximately 11-15 M.P.H. at closed throttle, 40-55 M.P.H. at detent, 59-71 M.P.H. at wide open throttle), the transmission makes an upshift to direct. This action is initiated by movement of the 2-3 shift valve. The upshift is accomplished by simultaneous disengagement of the kickdown band and engagement of the rear clutch. Forced 3-2 shift is obtainable below approximately 60 M.P.H., and forced 3-1 shift is obtainable below approximately 27 M.P.H. Normal downshifts are not- throttle sensitive and above half-throttle, they occur in sequence (3-2 at approximately 11-15 M.P.H. and 2-1 at approximately 7-11 M.P.H.) At throttle openings less than halfthrottle the two shift valves are interlocked by means of the 3-1 relay valve and the shift occurs as a 3-1 relay sequence at the normal 2-1 downshift speed. This action provides a smooth downshift since the overrunning clutch is free rolling in breakaway. Pushing in the 2 (second) button of the control unit moves the manual valve so that line pressure is directed to the kickdown circuit of the 2-3 shift valve. When in direct, this results in a downshift to second speed only if the vehicle speed is below 3-2 kickdown limit. If the vehicle is accelerated in second gear to the wide open throttle upshift speed, an upshift to direct will occur, thus eliminating over-speeding the engine in second gear. Operation of the 1-2 and 2-1 shift occur in the same manner as in the D (drive) position. Pushing in the 1 (low) button of the control unit positions the manual valve so that line pressure is directed to the kickdown circuit of the 1-2 shift valve. This results in a downshift to low only if the vehicle speed is below the 3-1 kickdown limit. Use of 1 (low) is intended primarily for engine braking so it is also necessary that the low-reverse band be engaged to lock the overrunning clutch. Line pressure from low port of the manual valve is fed to the low port of the 1-2 shift valve governor plug where it is blocked until compensated governor pressure drops sufficiently so that line pressure at the kickdown plug overcomes it and the complete valve train shifts down. After the downshift, pressure at the low port of the governor plug is permitted to react on an area of the governor plug and also directed to the low-reverse servo. Then the line pressure, acting on the combined areas of the governor plug and the kickdown plug, prevent an upshiftâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;regardless of vehicle speed. Pushing in the N (neutral) button moves the manual valve to a position which shuts off oil flow to the valve bodies. The torque converter and lubrication system remain pressurized. Pushing in the R (reverse) button of the control unit positions the manual valve so that oil pressure is directed to apply the rear clutch and the low-reverse band. In order to transmit the high torque loads involved in reverse operation, the system pressure is raised to

225 P.S.I, by venting of the secondary reaction area of the regulator valve.

1. MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENTS AND TESTS For lubrication requirements of the Torque-Flite Transmission, refer to the Lubrication Section of this manual.

Checking For Oil Leaks If the transmission is leaking fluid, the following points should be checked.

Leaks Repaired With Transmission in Vehicle (1) Transmission output shaft rear bearing oil seal. (2) Extension gasket. (3) Speedometer pinion assembly in extension. (4) Oil pan to filler tube connector. (5) Oil pan to transmission case. (6) Regulator valve and torque converter control valve spring retainers. Also regulator valve adjusting screw. (7) Gearshift control cable seal and housing gasket. (8) Governor, line, lubrication and real clutch apply pressure check plugs in transmission case or support (pressure tsst holes). (Refer to Figure 21.) (9) Neutral starting switch. (10) If oil is found inside torque converter housing, determine whether it is Automatic Transmission Fluid or engine oil. Check torque converter drain plug for tightness. Leaks at these locations should be corrected, regardless of how slight. Correct by tightening loose screws or plugs. Where this does not remedy the situation, replace faulty gaskets, seals or plugs.

Leaks Requiring Removal of Transmission From Vehicle (1) Sand hole in transmission case. (2) Sand hole in front oil pump housing. (3) Front oil pump housing screws or damaged sealing washers. (4) Front oil pump housing oil seal. (5) Front oil pump housing seal (located on outside diameter of front oil pump housing.) (6) Torque converter. Leaks at these locations may be corrected by tightening loose bolts or replacing damaged or faulty parts.

Manual Control Cableâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Adjustment The following procedure should be used in adjusting the manual control cable for proper operation of manual lever. (1) Push in the N (neutral) push button and hold in full neutral position. (2) Disconnect oil filler tube at connector on oil pan (filler tube support bracket screw may have to be loosened). Drain approximately two quarts of fluid from transmission. Reconnect filler tube. Loosen cable to transmission adjustable mounting bracket screw.

367

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE L O W A N D REVERSE BAND ADJUSTING SCREW

MANUAL CONTROL

TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE

SPLIT CABLE TRAVEL AT THIS POINT ADAPTER

REGULATOR VALVE ADJUSTING SCREW

56x687

Fig. 20—Manual Control Cable Adjustment

(3) Remove the neutral starting switch. Place the point of a screw driver (or a free-fitting flat faced shaft) through neutral starting switch opening in transmission case and against neutral starting switch cam of manual control lever to maintain n e u t r a l position of manual lever. (4) While holding manual lever in this position, adjust control cable for free play by pushing in until cable stops. Mark position on cable in relation to adaptor housing. Withdraw control cable to stop and measure travel. Push control cable in adaptor housing one-half of total travel (Figure 20). With cable in this position, tighten cable to transmission adjustable mounting bracket screw securely. Do not m o v e c a b l e w h e n tightening bracket. (5) Install neutral starting switch (with attached spring washer and "O" ring) and attach lead wire. With transmission in N (neutral), adjust switch to show electrical contact. Now, tighten ¼ to ½ turn. (6) To check for proper adjustment, push the various push buttons, return to neutral each time while checking the starter operation. Engine should start o n l y when the N (neutral) push button is depressed to limit of travel. A test light attached to the neutral starting switch may be matic Transmission Fluid (Type A) to proper level. (Refer to Lubrication Section.) Throttle Linkage Adjustment Proper adjustment of the transmission throttle linkage is very important for proper operation of the transmission. Therefore, the following procedure shuld be very carefully performed: Four B a r r e l (1) With engine at operating temperature and adjusted to 475-500 R.P.M., loosen throttle linkage adjusting nut on rod from bellcrank to intermediate throttle control. (2) Hold light preload rearward on rod so that throttle valve lever is against the stop in the transmission. (3) Tighten throttle adjusting nut. (4) Adjust accelerator pedal rod by removing pedal to accelerator shaft rod at the pedal arm. Loosen lock nut and turn ball and socket end of rod in the direction required to adjust the pedal so that wide open throttle is obtained when the pedal is depressed just down to the floor mat but not compressing it.

FILLER TUBE CONNECTOR 57x237

(Right Side)

GOVERNOR PRESSURE TAKE-OFF PLUG NEUTRAL STARTER SWITCH K I C K D O W N BAND ADJUSTING SCREW LINE PRESSURE TAKE-OFF PLUG 56 x 684B

(Left Side) Fig. 21—Transmission Case

Two Barrel All operations are the same as the four barrel, except that, since there is no intermediate throttle control assembly, adjustment is made on the bellcrank to carburetor rod. Transmission Bands

Kickdown Band (Front) The kickdown band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the transmission case, as shown in Figure 21. Using a ¾ inch wrench, loosen the locknut. Check the freeness of the adjusting screw in the transmission case. If free, use inch-pound torque-wrench. Tool C-3380 (with extension C-3583). Because of the added leverage afforded by extension C-3583, set the click device on the indicator at 47-50 inch pounds, then tighten adjusting screw to this torque (disregard multiplication factor notation on extension C-3583). Using a reference mark of chalk or colored pencil on the corner of the adjusting screw square and the transmission case, back the adjusting screw out exactly 3½ turns. While holding the adjusting screw stationary, tighten the locknut from 35 to 40 foot-pounds torque. Care must be exercised in permitting this operation. If band adjustment is made with transmission removed from vehicle (using wrench,

368

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Tool C-3380—without special extension C-3583) the adjusting screw should be torqued from 70-75 inch-pounds torque. Low-Reverse Band The low-reverse band adjusting screw is located on the right side of the transmission case, as shown in Figure 21. Using a ¾ inch wrench, loosen the locknut. Check the freeness of the adjusting screw in the transmission case. If free, use inch-pound torque wrench, ToolC-3380 (with extension C-3583). Because of the added leverage afforded by the extension C-3583, set the click device on the indicator at 47-50 inch-pounds, then tighten adjusting screw to this torque (disregard multiplication factor notation on extension C-3583). Using a reference mark of chalk or colored pencil on the corner of the adjusting screw square and the transmission case, back the adjusting screw out exactly 2Vs turns. While holding the adjusting screw stationary, tighten the locknut from 35 to 40 foot-pounds torque. If band adjustment is made with transmission removed from vehicle (using wrench, Tool C-3380—without special extension C-3583) the adjusting screw should be torqued from 70-75 inch-pounds torque.

Road Testing First check the transmission fluid level and engine idle. Good transmission operation depends on good engine operation. Make sure the engine is operating at full efficiency. If, when tuning the engine, the throttle linkage between the carburetor and the transmission is disturbed, it will be necessary to readjust the linkage. Before attempting to diagnose or correct the transmission operation, the engine and transmission should be warmed up to operating temperature. A short drive, approximately five to ten miles, with frequent starts and stops will create normal operating temperatures of the engine and transmission. Do n o t stall test t h e t o r q u e c o n v e r t e r . For safety r e a s o n s a n d b e c a u s e d a m a g e to t h e transmission m a y result, w i d e o p e n throttle stall o p e r a t i o n i s not r e c o m m e n d e d . (1) Engage the N (neutral) button and check for dragging up to an engine speed of 800 R.P.M. (2) Push in the R (reverse) button and note the shift time and smoothness of the shift. Back the car up and check for dragging. (3) Push in the D (drive) button and note the shift time and smoothness of engagement. (4) Accelerate the car at very light throttle. The transmission should upshift into second at approximately 10 M.P.H. and into direct at approximately 15 M.P.H. Check the quality of the shifts. (5) Slow the car to approximately 15 M.P.H., then depress the accelerator pedal quickly to wide open

throttle (without going into kickdown). Check for slippage of the front and rear clutches. The transmission should not downshift at this time. (6) At a car speed of approximately 25 M.P.H. depress the accelerator pedal fully. The transmission should downshift to breakaway gear. Check the quality of the shift. (7) Release the accelerator pedal and allow the transmission to upshift. Accelerate the car to 50 M.P.H. Depress the accelerator pedal fully. The transmission should downshift to second gear. Car should not downshift above approximately 55 M.P.H. (8) Release the accelerator pedal to closed throttle. Check the quality of the "lift-foot" upshift. (9) Accelerate the car in kickdown (second gear) at wide open throttle until the transmission upshifts. The shift should occur at approximately 65 M.P.H. Check the quality of the shift. (10) Slow the car down to 10-55 M.P.H. and engage the 2 (second) button. The transmission should downshift to second gear. Check for gear noise. (11) Slow the car to 15 M.P.H. and depress the accelerator pedal quickly to wide open throttle without going into kickdown. Check for kickdown band or front clutch slippage. The transmission should not downshift at this time. (12) Release the accelerator pedal and push in the 1 (low) button. Transmission should downshift to second below approximately 55 M.P.H. The transmission should downshift to breakaway at approximately below 25 M.P.H. (13) With the accelerator pedal at light throttle, push in the D (drive) button at approximately 15 M.P.H. (the transmission will upshift to direct). Coast to a stop. The transmission should downshift at approximately 10 M.P.H. Check the quality of the downshift.

Hydraulic Control Pressure Checks Line Pressure Remove the pipe plug from the line pressure take-off hole located on the left side of the transmission case (Figure 21). Install gauge, Tool C-2393 (300 P.S.I.) at this point (Figure 22).

LINE PRESSURE CHART Engine Speed (RPM)

Push Button Position

Rear Wheels

Free to Turn

N IN D 2 1

1600 finn

Free to Turn Free to Turn Free to Turn

800 800 800

ouu

Line Pressure (PSD

200 - 250 85 - %J\J 95 \J\J 90 85- 95 85- 95

If line pressure is not correct, it may be adjusted* by loosening the lock nut on the adjusting screw (Figure 21) and turning the adjusting screw clockwise to in-

369

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFUTE

56x697

Fig. 22—Checking Line Pressure

Fig. 23—Checking Governor Pressure

crease or counterclockwise to decrease line pressure. All line pressure adjustments should fall within the limits specified in the table shown for all other pushbutton positions. If the line pressure cannot be satisfactorily adjusted, check "Trouble Diagnosis Chart." *Line pressure adjustment must be made in D (drive) position with engine at 800 R.P.M. and wheels free to turn.

clutch pressure is not correct, investigate the "Trouble Diagnosis Chart."

Governor Pressure (Refer to Figure 23)

Remove the pipe plug from the governor pressure takeoff hole located on the lower left side of the output shaft support (Figure 21). Install gauge, Tool C-3292 (100 P.S.L). If the rear clutch pressure is not correct, investigate the "Trouble Diagnosis Chart."

Lubrication Pressure

Remove the pipe plug from the lubrication pressure take-off hole located on the left side of the transmission case (Figure 21). Install gauge, Tool C-3293 (300 P.S.L) at this point. With engine running at 800 R.P.M. in neutral, lubrication pressure should be approximately 10 to 30 P.S.I. If the pressure is incorrect, check line pressure and the "Trouble Diagnosis Chart." If the pressure is extremely high (above 50 P.S.L), it is a good indication that there is a restriction due to dirt or foreign matter in the lubrication passages.

GOVERNOR PRESSURE CHART Push Button Position

Rear Wheels

Car Speed

Governor Pressure

D D D

Free to Turn Free to Turn Free to Turn

16-18 M.P.H. 29-35 M.P.H. 61-66 M.P.H.

15 P.S.L 45 P.S.I. 75 P.S.L

REAR CLUTCH APPLY PRESSURE TAKE-OFF PLUG

If governor pressure doesn't correspond to car speeds, check line pressure and the " Trouble Diagnosis Chart." Rear Clutch Apply (Refer to Figure 24)

Remove the pipe plug from the rear clutch apply pressure take-off hole located on the output shaft support. Install gauge Tool C-3293 (300 P.S.L). The rear clutch circuit is pressurized in D (drive) position, direct and in the (R) (reverse) position. The rear clutch circuit pressure should be checked simultaneously with line pressure. The rear clutch apply pressure should not be less than a value of 15 P.S.I, lower than line pressure (90 P.S.L in direct and 200-250 P.S.I, in reverse). If the rear

56xó95

Fig.

-Rear Clutch Apply Pressure Tap Location

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

370

2. TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS CHART The Trouble Diagnosis Chart has the operating difficulties listed in three groups. After road testing, match the trouble found to its particular group and to the specific difficulty under that group. The Index and Item in

the "Items to Check" column are next checked against the "Explanation of Index Items." Capital letter items refer to those operations which may be performed without removing the transmission. The small letter items refer to those operations done after removal of transmission from car.

TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS CHART

•

Starter Won't Energize

•

Impossible to Push Start

•

Trans. Overheats

Grating, Scraping Etc. Noises

Drags or Locks

Drives inN

No Drive inR

No Drive in Forward Ranges

No Drive in Any Position

Slips in All Positions

Slips in L-R Only

Slips in Forward Drive Position

Shifts Erratically

No K.D. or Normal Downshift

No Upshift

Harsh Upshift and 3-2 K.D.

Runaway on Upshift and 3-2 K.D.

•

Trans. Hard to FillOil Blows Out Fil. Tb.

•

Miscellaneous

Buxxing Noises

A. Oil Level B Throttle Link Adj C. Gearshift Control Cable Adj. D. Pressure Checks— Line Lube, etc. E. K.D. Band Adj. F. Low-Reverse Band Adj. G. Engine Idle H. Starting Switches I. Handbrake Adj. J. Regulator—Valve Spring K. Converter Control Valve L. Breather M. Output Shaft Rear Bearing S. R. N. T. C. Cooling O. K.D. Servo Band-Linkage P. L-R Servo. Band-Linkage Q. Oil Strainer R. Valve BodyBolts—Mating Surfaces J5. Accumulator T. Air Pressure Check U. Governor V. Rear Pump a. Front Pump— Drive Sleeve b. Regulator Valve Body, Gasket, Surfaces c. Converter d. Front Clutch e. Rear Clutch f. Planetary Gear Set g. Overrunning Clutch

1 Delayed NtoD

ITEM

Harsh N to D or N to R

INDEX

OPERATING DIFFICULTY Response

Shift Abnormalities

ITEMS TO CHECK See "Explanation of Index Items"

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• • • •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

•

• •

• • • •

• • •

•

• • •

•

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

371

Explanation of Index Items

Never remove a transmission from a car until all the possible "in car" causes have been checked for the operating difficulty and the oil pan has been removed to check for dirt, metal chips, band material, broken band ends, and burned or scored band contacting surfaces. Also, check the manual control cable and throttle linkage for adjustment and wear. A. Oil level—Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual. B. Throttle linkage—Adjust to Specifications. C. Gearshift control cable—Adjust to Specifications. D. Pressure tap check—Hydraulic pressure taps have been provided to check the following pressures: line, lubrication, governor and rear clutch apply. These pressures should fall within the specified limits stated in the Hydraulic Control Pressure Check Charts. E. Kickdown band adjustment—The kickdown band adjustment screw is found on the left side of the transmission case (Figure 21). Adjust to specifications. F. Low a n d reverse band adjustment—The low and reverse band adjustment screw is found on the right side of the transmission case. (Figure 21). Adjust to specifications. G. Engine idle—Adjust to 475 to 500 r.p.m. H. Starting switches—Check wires, connections and switch. Check clearance of N (neutral) push button slide to motor starting switch contact clearance. Refer to Figure 29. I. Handbrake—Check for excessive drag. Refer to Brakes Section for method of adjusting hand brake. J. Regulator v a l v e , spring—The regulator valve may be removed by removing the regulator valve spring retainer which is on the right side of the transmission case (Figure 21). Check for a stuck or scratched valve and/or buckled spring. K. Converter control v a l v e , spring—The converter control valve may be removed by removing the converter control valve spring retainer which is on the right side of the transmission case (Figure 21). Check for a stuck or scratched valve and/or buckled spring. L. Breather—Check to determine whether breather is free of dirt and undercoating. M. Output shaft rear bearing, snap ring— Check for rough bearing and/or unseated snap ring and correct thickness snap ring. N. Torque converter housing cooling air passages—Check for dirt, mud, or other foreign material on screens or on torque converter cooling fins. O. Kickdown servo, band a n d linkage— Check for broken seal rings, stuck servo piston or broken linkage.

H A-GOVERNOR PRESSURE B—REAR PUMP INLET C—REAR CLUTCH 'APPLY' (Line pressure) D—LOW AND REVERSE SERVO 'APPLY'(Line pressure) E—KICKDOWN SERVO 'APPLY' (Throttle compensated pressure) F—LOW AND REVERSE SERVO (Location) G—KICKDOWN SERVO (Location) H —KICKDOWN SERVO 'APPLY' (Line pressure) J_KICKDOWN SERVO 'RELEASE' (Line pressure) K—ACCUMULATOR (Location) L—FRONT CLUTCH AND ACCUMULATOR 'APPLY' (Line pressure) M—LINE PRESSURE N —FRONT PUMP INLET O-REVERSE UPSET (Reverse blocker 'Apply') (Line pressure) P_LINE PRESSURE GAUGE 56x712A

Fig. 25—Oil Passages In Transmission Case

P. Low and reverse servo, band and linkage —Check for torn seal, broken band and/or linkage. Q. Oil strainer—Check for possible air leakage. R. Valve body attaching bolts a n d mating surface—Check for loose bolts, burrs or scratches on mating surfaces. Clean valve body assembly. Check for stuck valves, dirt, scratched valves or body, and burrs on valves. Torque valve body bolts to specification. S. Accumulator—Check accumulator cover screw tightness and piston for broken rings. Torque accumulator cover screws to specifications. T. Air pressure checks—The front clutch, rear clutch, kickdown servo, and low and reverse servo may be checked by applying air pressure to their respective passage when the valve body is removed. To make the complete air pressure check proceed as follows: Refer to Figure 25. CAUTION: Compressed air supply must b e free of a l l dirt and moisture.

372

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Raise the vehicle on a hoist, drain the transmission fluid and remove the transmission oil pan. Remove the accumulator cover and valve bodies assembly. Apply air pressure to the front clutch passage, located slightly toward the center of the transmission from the accumulator (be sure to cover accumulator piston bore to prevent piston from being blown out). Protect from oil spray by holding a clean lintless cloth, cardboard, or some other shield against the bottom of the transmission case when applying the air pressure. Listen for a dull "thud" which indicates that the front clutch is operating. Hold the air pressure on for a few seconds and observe for excessive oil leaks in the system. Apply air pressure to the rear clutch passage (near the center rear end of the lower surface of the transmission case). Listen for a dull "thud" which indicates that the rear clutch is operating. Also check for excessive oil leaks. Apply air pressure to the kickdown "apply" (line) pressure passage (toward the center of the transmission case and to the front of the kickdown servo). Observe the operation of the kickdown servo, lever and band when air pressure is applied. Apply air pressure to the kickdown "apply" (compensated throttle) pressure passage (toward the center of the transmission case and to the rear of the kickdown servo). Observe the operation of the kickdown servo. Apply air pressure to the low and reverse servo passage (toward the center of the transmission case and to the front of the low and reverse servo). Observe the operation of the low and reverse servo, lever, and band, when air pressure is applied. If the clutches and servos operate properly, "no drive" conditions as well as erratic or no upshift conditions, indicate that the malfunctioning exists in the control valve body assembly. Disassemble, clean, inspect and service the valve body assembly a s described in the "Reconditioning of Valve Body and Transfer Plate Assemblies," section of this Service Manual. Upon completion of the air pressure check, and servicing the valve body assembly, install the valve body assembly, accumulator cover, and transmission oil pan. Fill the transmission to proper level with fluid, and adjust the control cable and throttle linkage. U. Governor—Clean assembly, and check weight assembly and valve for burrs, scratches or sticky operation. Examine the governor valve shaft, shaft snap rings and seal rings. V. R e a r pump—Clean and inspect assembly for side and diametral clearance. Note whether rear oil pump pinion ball is in place. Examine output shaft support face for scoring.

a. Front pump—Drive sleeve—Clean and inspect assembly for side and diametral clearance. Examine oil pump inner and outer rotor for scoring. Check front pump drive sleeve seal rings. b. Regulator valve body, mating surfaces, gasket—Clean and inspect valve body for scratches and scoring on valve bores and face which bears against the front pump housing. Examine the valve body to determine if the secondary reaction orifice is free of dirt. Check gasket for uniformness of compression by valve body. c. Converter—Flush out converter and check converter to housing runout. Refer to Torque Converter Section of the Transmission Section. d. Front clutch—Clean and inspect discs, plates, drive hub, return spring, piston levers, cushion spring and retainer. Check the following front clutch circuit leakage possibilities: (1) Valve body and valve body to case mating surface. (2) Accumulator small and large piston rings. (3) Regulator valve body to case mating surface. (4) Torque converter reaction shaft seal ring. (5) Input shaft small and large seal rings. (6) Intermediate shaft No. 1, 2, and 3 seal rings. (7) Front clutch oil feed tube. (8) Front clutch piston inner and outer seal ring. (9) Front clutch check valve ball. e. R e a r clutch—Clean and inspect discs, plates, return spring and piston. Check the following rear clutch circuit leakage possibilities. (1) Valve body and valve body to case mating surface. (2) Output shaft support to case mating surface. (3) Output shaft small and large seal rings. (4) Intermediate shaft No. 4, 5, and 6 seal rings. (5) Rear clutch oil feed tube. (6) Sun gear rear clutch seal rings. (7) Rear clutch piston inner and outer seal rings. (8) Rear clutch check valve ball. (9) Kickdown piston rod guide seal ring and rod guide to kickdown rod fit. (10) Large kickdown piston seal ring. f. P l a n e t a r y g e a r set—Clean and inspect gear set for worn thrust washers, nicked or rough gear teeth, and excessive pinion end clearance. g. Low Speed Over-running clutch—Clean and inspect the over-running clutch assembly for brinnelled rollers and/or cam and improperly assembled rollers or springs.

SERVICING GEARSHIFT CONTROL HOUSING Removing Gearshift Control Housing (1) Disconnect negative battery cable. From rear of

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE instrument panel, disconnect motor starting switch, illuminating lamp and back-up light switch (if so equipped) leads. (2) Remove the four screws, holding gearshift housing and plate assembly to instrument panel. One screw at top front of plate, one screw at front left edge of plate and two screws at bottom (rear) of plate. (3) Partially pull plate and gearshift control housing assembly straight out and down from instrument panel, as shown in Figure 26. If housing is equipped with a back-up light switch, exercise care when removing plate so a s not to damage switch. (4) Remove two retainer screws (Figure 26) securing gearshift housing to plate and remove plate by carefully withdrawing from push buttons. (5) Remove hairpin clip securing cable end to actuator. (6) Remove the two screws holding cable assembly bracket to gearshift control housing (Figure 27) and remove cable assembly. (7) If necessary to remove push buttons from slides, withdraw buttons by pulling on the buttons.

373

GEARSHIFT CONTROL HOUSING

PLATE

GEARSHIFT CONTROL CABLE RETAINER SCREWS (2)

Removing Gearshift Control Cable Engage 1 (low) button to place cable adapter spring lock in line with control cable adapter plug hole in transmission case. Remove the gearshift control unit from the

^ 57K)49

Fig. 26—Removing Gearshift Control Housing CABLE BRACKET CABLE ASSY.

ACTUATOR

Installing the Gearshift Control Housing (1) Install end of control cable on actuator and install hairpin clip (Figure 27). (2) Place cable bracket in position on gearshift control housing, install the two screws and tighten securely. (3) If push buttons were removed, slightly compress fingers on slides (if necessary) to aid in retention of push buttons. (4) Place gearshift control housing assembly in position on plate, as shown in Figure 26, and secure with the two retainer screws. If light socket bracket was removed it should be mounted between the gearshift control housing and housing mounting bracket. The wire should be located in the light socket bracket key slot and routed directly up and over (towards center of car) the housing upper mounting bolt with the wire retained in the recess between the housing and its mounting. (5) Carefully guide plate and gearshift housing assembly back into position in instrument panel and secure with the four screws. If housing is equipped with back-up light switch, exercise care during positioning of plate in instrument panel to avoid damaging switch. (6) Reconnect motor starting switch, illuminating lamp and back-up light switch (if so equipped) leads. Reconnect negative battery cable. (7) Adjust gearshift control cable a s outlined in "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests," Paragraph 1.

- ^ "^`` d¡F

HAIRPIN CLIP

56x55A

Fig. 27—Gearshift Control Housing (Exterior View)

CONTROL CABLE HOUSING THROTTLE CONTROL ROD

MANUAL CONTROL CABLE

56x675

Fig. 28—Releasing Manual Control Cable Spring Lock

instrument panel as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing", steps 2, 3, 5 and 6. Remove cable adjustable mounting bracket on transmission. Remove control cable adapter housing plug, insert screw driver through hole, and release the control cable spring lock, as shown in Figure 28. While releasing the spring lock, remove cable. From front of dash, pull cable assembly and rubber grommet from dash panel. Installing and Adjusting Gearshift Control Cable Place grommet on cable. From front of dash, install con-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

374 GEARSHIFT CONTROL HOUSING

Replacing Starting Motor Switch STARTING MOTOR SWITCH

(1) Remove gearshift housing and plate assembly as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing," steps 1 through 7. (2) Remove starting motor switch by drilling out rivets. (3) Mount replacement switch on gearshift control housing and secure by riveting or using suitable screws,

lockwashers and nuts. Be sure that sufficient clearance is maintained for free movement of operating slide ends, if screws are used. 57 X 559

CONTROL CABLE

Fig. 29—Push Button Operating Slide To Starting Motor Switch Clearance

trol housing end of cable through dash panel. Install gearshift control unit as outlined under "Installing Gearshift Control Housing/' steps lf 2 and 5. Install cable grommet into dash panel. (1) Remove neutral starting switch from transmission case (Figure 21). (2) Position manual valve lever in l o w range detent. (3) Hold the R (reverse) push button in at full travel position. (4) Insert cable into transmission manual lever adapter until spring lock engages control cable securely. (5) Release the R (reverse) button and hold the N (neutral) push button in. (6) Adjust cable as outlined under "Manual Control Cable—Adjustment", steps 3, 4, 5 and 6.

Replacing The Back-Up Light Switch (when so equipped) (1) Remove gearshift control housing and plate as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing", steps 1 through 4. (2) Back-up light switch is fastened to the control unit by four tabs. Straighten tabs to remove switch. (3) Install repaired or replacement switch and bend tabs to secure switch to gearshift control housing. (4) Install gearshift control housing and plate assembly. Reconnect all lead wires, then check reverse slide for travel and free return.

Replacing Push Button Unit Lamp Bulb (1) Remove the gearshift control housing and plate as outlined under "Removing Gearshift Control Housing," steps 1 through 4. (2) Remove one or more push buttons for clearance. (3) Replace defective or burned out bulb. (4) Replace gearshift control housing and plate assembly. Reconnect all lead wires, then test operation of unit.

(4) Push button operating slide to starting motor switch clearance is obtained by depressing the N (neutral) push button to the n e u t r a l position o n l y and depressing only far enough beyond this point to remove a l l free movement from the actuator. Clearance between slide and motor starting switch contact should then be between .010-.015 inch. Refer to Figure 29. (5) If clearance is not within this specification, the tab on the neutral operating slide may be adjusted by carefully bending to bring within specifications. U s e c a r e a s t h e o p e r a t i n g slide is of h a r d e n e d m a t e r i a l a n d m a y b r e a k if c a r e is not e x e r cised d u r i n g the b e n d i n g o p e r a t i o n . (6) Test operation of unit, using a suitable test lamp. (7) Reinstall gearshift control housing and plate assembly. (8) Adjust control cable as outlined under "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests," Paragraph 1.

4. SERVICING OF COMPONENT PARTS WITH TRANSMISSION IN VEHICLE Speedometer Pinion—(Removal) (1) Disconnect speedometer cable and housing from drive pinion and sleeve assembly in transmission extension. (2) Remove speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly from transmission extension.

Installation (1) Install speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly in transmission extension and torque from 40 to 45 footpounds. (2) Connect speedometer cable and housing to drive pinion and sleeve assembly in transmission. Tighten securely.

Neutral Starting Switch—(Removal) (1) Drain approximately two quarts of fluid from transmission by disconnecting filler tube at oil pan connector (may be necessary to loosen filler tube support bracket screw). Remove wire at switch. (2) Remove switch and gasket.

Installation (1) Place spring washer and "O" ring over switch and

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE install switch in transmission case. With transmission in neutral, adjust switch to electrical contact, then tighten ¼ to ¼ turn. (2) Connect wire to switch. (3) Refill transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) to proper level after reconnecting filler tube at oil pan. Transmission Regulator Valve Assembly— (Removal) (1) Remove transmission regulator valve spring retainer, gasket, cup spring and sleeve. (2) Using a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod (5/32") inserted in the end of valve, remove valve (Figure 30). Installation (1) With the assistance of the retrieving tool, place valve in position and seat properly in regulator valve body. (2) Install regulator valve spring, sleeve, cup, gasket and retainer and tighten to a torque of 45 to 50 footpounds. (3) Check and adjust line pressure—if necessary. Torque Converter Control Valve Assembly— (Removal) (1) Remove the torque converter control valve spring retainer (Figure 21), gasket and spring. (2) Using a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod (¼") inserted in end of valve, remove valve. Installation (1) With the assistance of the retrieving tool, place valve in position and seat properly in regulator valve body. (2) Install torque converter control valve spring, gasket, and retainer, and torque from 35 to 40 footpounds. Oil Pan— (Removal) (1) Drain transmission by disconnecting filler tube connector at oil pan, (may be necessary to loosen filler tube support bracket screw). (2) Remove the oil pan screws and washers, and remove the oil pan and gasket from transmission case. Installation (1) Using a new oil pan gasket, place oil pan into position on transmission case. (2) Install the oil pan screws and washers drawing them down evenly, and torque from 12 to 17 foot-pounds. Install oil pan filler tube, and tighten nut connector from 35 to 40 foot-pounds. Tighten support bracket screw. (3) Refill transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Refer to "Lubrication Section" of this manual.

375

TRANSMISSION REGULATOR VALVE

PIECE OF WELDING ROD

53x55 Fig. 30—Removing Regulator Valve

Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly— (Removal) (1) Place push button control unit in 1 (low) position. It will be n e c e s s a r y for control c a b l e a d a p t e r to be in this position w h e n r e m o v i n g c a b l e from a d a p t e r housing on transmission. (2) Remove oil pan. (3) Disconnect throttle linkage from throttle lever on transmission. (4) Remove all dirt and foreign material from around control cable housing. (5) Loosen throttle control lever screw and remove lever assembly. (6) Remove flat washer and felt seal from throttle lever shaft. (7) Remove control cable adjustable mounting bracket. (8) Remove control cable adapter housing plug, insert screw driver through hole, and release the control cable spring lock. While releasing control cable spring lock, remove cable. (9) Using same screwdriver, insert through cable opening in adapter housing and push lever rearward to last detent. Reinstall housing plug and tighten. (10) Remove the three control cable housing screws and washers. (11) Remove control cable housing and gasket. (12) Loosen manual valve control lever screw and slide lever off shaft. (13) Remove the four oil strainer assembly screws and washers and remove oil strainer assembly. (14) Loosen (to relieve spring load) and remove the three accumulator cover screws with washers. Remove cover and spring from transfer plate. (15) Remove the three transfer screws and washers and remove valve bodies and transfer plate assembly from transmission case (Figure 31).

376

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL CONTROL CABLE ADAPTER

MANUAL VALVE CONTROL LEVER

VALVE BODIES A N TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLIES I56X66OA

56x658

Fig. 31—Removal and Installation of Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly

Fig. 32—Setting Manual Valve Control Lever Clearance

Installation (1) Clean mating surfaces and check for burrs on both the transmission case and valve body transfer plate. (2) Install valve bodies and transfer plate assembly on transmission case. (3) Install the three transfer plate screws and washers two in center and one in front. Draw down evenly and torque from 14 to 16 foot-pounds. D i s h e d t y p e w a s h e r s a r e u s e d t o p r e v e n t cutting or c h i p p i n g of soft m e t a l s a n d should b e i n s t a l l e d o n s c r e w s with d i s h e d portion facing a w a y from h e a d . (4) Install accumulator spring through transfer plate and position in piston. (5) Install accumulator cover, three screws, and washers; draw down evenly. (6) Place oil strainer in position on transfer plate assembly. Install the four screws and washers. Draw down evenly and torque strainer and accumulator cover screws from 14 to 16 foot-pounds. (7) Install oil pan. (8) Install manual valve control lever (locking screw to rear) on manual valve lever shaft. (9) Position lever on shaft so there is 7/32" clearance (without gasket) between lever and transmission case. A 7/32 drill bit can be used for obtaining proper clearance (Figure 32). Tighten locking screw securely. (10) If control cable adapter has been removed from manual valve control lever, reinstall by positioning in lever (end of spring lock up), and installing pin. (11) Place manual valve control lever in reverse position (last detent to rear) and install gasket, control cable housing, and screws and washers. Draw down evenly and torque from 14 to 16 foot-pounds. (12) Install felt washer, flat washer, and throttle lever control assembly. Tighten clamping bolt.

(13) Connect throttle linkage to throttle lever on transmission. (14) Install control cable in housing and adapter making sure spring lock engages cable. Replace cable adjustable mounting bracket. (15) Adjust manual control cable. Refer to "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests," Paragraph 1. (16) Refill transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Refer to "Lubrication" Section of this manual. (17) Adjust throttle linkage. Refer to "Throttle Linkage Adjustment," under "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests", Paragraph 1.

Kickdown Piston—(Removal) (1) Remove valve bodies and transfer plate assembly. (2) Loosen kickdown band adjusting screw lock nut and back adjusting screw out sufficiently to remove anchor. (3) Remove kickdown band strut. (4) Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified a s shown in Figure 65), apply sufficient pressure on the kickdown piston rod guide, and remove the snap ring. (5) Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove piston rod guide, piston spring, and piston rod. (6) Using C-484 pliers, remove the kickdown piston from transmission case (Figure 33). Refer to "Kickdown Piston Inspection" under "Reconditioning Transmission."

Installation (1) Lubricate piston rings and place kickdown piston assembly into position, compress outer ring, and start assembly into case. With piston properly centered so not to damage rings, tap lightly and bottom piston into transmission case. (2) Slide piston spring over kickdown piston rod assembly and install in piston.

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

377

ICKDOWN PISTON ROD GUIDE SEAL

KICKDOWN SERVO PISTON

Fig. 33—Removal and Installation of Kickdown Piston (Typical View)

F¡g. 34—Positioning Kickdewn Piston Rod Guide Seal (Typical View)

(3) While holding in position, install the kickdown piston rod guide assembly on kickdown piston rod. (4) Using Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified) and extreme care, compress the kickdown piston spring to the point that piston guide seal ring slightly binds on transmission case. Work seal ring into position and gradually compress spring until seal ring enters case and snap ring can be installed (Figure 34). (5) Install kickdown piston rod guide snap ring, making sure it is properly seated. (6) Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove tool from transmission case. (7) Place Kickdown band strut in position in band and lever, and compress band end sufficiently to install anchor over adjusting screw. (8) Adjust kickdown band as outlined under "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests." Paragraph 1. (9) Install valve bodies and transfer plate assembly.

shaft flange nut and washer. (3) Release hand brake and install puller. Tool C-452 (if necessary). Remove the propeller shaft flange and brake drum assembly. (4) Remove the transmission brake support grease shield spring (small one). (5) Remove brake support grease shield from exten-

sion. If screwdriver or sharp instrument is used in performing this operation, care must be exercised not to d a m a g e the neoprene sealing surface at bottom of shield. (6) Install puller. Tool C-748 and remove the transmission output shaft rear bearing oil seal. Installation (1) Using driver, C-3205, install output shaft rear bearing oil seal (metal portion of seal facing in) until driver bottoms on extension (Figure 78).

Accumulator Piston—(Removal) (1) Remove valve bodies and transfer plate assemblies. (2) Using C-484 pliers, remove accumulator piston from transmission case as shown in Figure 35. (3) Refer to Accumulator Piston—Inspection, as outlined in "Reconditioning Transmission." Installation (1) Lubricate seal rings and place accumulator piston into position. Compress outer seal ring and tap lightly into transmission case. (2) Install valve bodies and transfer plate assemblies. Transmission Output Shaft Rear Bearing Oil Seal—(Removal) (1) Disconnect the front universal joint and secure propeller shaft out of the way. (2) Apply the hand brake and remove the propeller

Fig. 35—Removal and Installation of Accumulator Piston (Typical View)

378

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

SUPPORT TO ANSM1SSION CASE SCREW

EXTENSION AND HAND BRAKE ASSEMBLY^

Fig. 36â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removal and Installation of Extension and Handbrake Assembly

(2) Install brake support grease shield on extension housing. CAUTION: Indent o n g r e a s e s h i e l d must m a t c h g r o o v e i n e x t e n s i o n for correct positioning. A l s o , s h i e l d must b e l o c a t e d o n extension f a r e n o u g h to permit i n s t a l l a t i o n of s p r i n g . (3) Install brake support grease shield spring (opening in spring toward adjusting sleeve). Make sure spring is properly seated in groove. (4) Install propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. (5) Install propeller shaft flange washer (convex side towards nut) and nut. (6) Apply hand brake and torque the propeller shaft flange nut to 175 foot-pounds torque. (7) Connect front universal joint and torque nuts from 33 to 37 foot-pounds torque. (8) Refill transmission (if necessary) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) to proper level. Refer to Lubrication Section. Extensionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;(Removal) (1) Raise vehicle off floor. (2) Drain approximately two quarts of fluid from transmission, then reconnect filler tube at connector. (3) Disconnect front universal joint and secure propeller shaft out of the way. (4) Apply hand brake and remove propeller shaft flange nut and washer. Release hand brake and using puller, Tool C-452 (if necessary), remove the propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. (5) Remove brake adjusting screw cover plate and loosen cable clamp bolt on hand brake support. (6) Disengage the ball end of the cable from opera-

ting lever and remove cable from brake support. (7) Disconnect speedometer cable and housing at transmission extension and remove speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly. (8) Remove the two nuts and lockwashers that hold engine rear support insulator to the crossmember, leaving insulator attached to extension. (9) Remove the two top transmission extension to case screws and lockwashers. (10) Using suitable jack (or engine support fixture, C-3487) and extreme care (to prevent damage to oil pan), raise transmission sufficiently for insulator on extension to clear crossmember. Remove four of the remaining extension to case screws and lockwashers and install guide studs. Tool C-3283. Due to interference of the insulator, it will be necessary to remove the bottom extension to case screw with the extension. That is, back screw out as far as possible and slide extension back and continue loosening of screw. Do not remove the one output shaft support to transmission case screw. (11) Remove extension and hand brake as one assembly as shown in Figure 36. If c a r e i s u s e d , it i s not necessary to remove hand brake support and shoe assemblies from extension to replace output shaft rear bearing.

Installation (1) With guide studs, Tool C-3283 installed in transmission case, install a new extension gasket over guide studs and into position against output shaft support. Do not use sealing material on gasket. (2) Using extreme care, place extension and hand brake assembly over output shaft and on guide studs. D u e to i n t e r f e r e n c e of the insulator, it will b e n e c e s s a r y to start the bottom extension to c a s e s c r e w a s the extension is p u s h e d into position a g a i n s t support. Do not u s e h a m m e r or attempt to pull extension i n with t h e a i d of s c r e w s ; o t h e r w i s e , d a m a g e to extension m a y result. T h e p r o p e l l e r shaft f l a n g e a n d drum a s s e m b l y m a y b e u s e d to force b e a r i n g i n extension o n output shaft. (3) Remove guide studs. Tool C-3283 and install the six remaining extension to case screws and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds. After screws have been properly torqued, turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. (4) Lower transmission and at the same time align mounting studs in insulator with holes in crossmember. (5) Install the two nuts and lockwashers that hold the rear engine support insulator and torque from 30 to 35 foot-pounds. (6) Engage ball end of hand brake cable in operating lever and tighten cable clamp bolt.

379

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE (7) Install propeller shaft flange and drum assembly, washer, and nut. (If assembly was used to force bearing in extension on output shaft, then omit this operation). (8) Apply hand brake and tighten nut to 175 footpounds. (9) Install adjusting screw cover plate on hand brake support. (10) Connect front universal joint and torque nuts from 33 to 37 foot-pounds. (11) Install speedometer pinion and sleeve assembly. Torque from 40 to 45 foot-pounds and connect speedometer cable housing. (12) Lower vehicle and refill transmission to proper level with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual. Governor—(Remova/) (1) Remove extension. (2) Using a s c r e w d r i v e r , r e m o v e t h e g o v e r n o r v a l v e shaft s n a p r i n g from t h e w e i g h t assembly end. (3) Remove governor valve shaft and valve from governor body assembly (Figure 37). (4) Using pliers, C-3229 remove governor weight assembly snap ring (large one) and remove governor weight assembly from governor body. The primary cause of governor operating failures is due to improper operation of governor valve which may be sticking in housing or travel restricted by chips or other foreign matter. If inspection reveals that it is necessary for further governor servicing, then remove governor support locating screws, and remove governor and support assembly from rear oil pump housing (Figure 38). Normal servicing does not require removal of the governor body from the governor support. If condition warrants removal of governor body from governor support, when reassembling do not tighten governor body screws until governor body support is located on output shaft. Installation (1) Slide governor body and support assembly into position in rear oil pump housing. Using extreme care, compress governor support seal rings as support enters oil pump housing. Do not force. (2) Align locating hole in output shaft to locating hole in governor support, and install screw. Torque from 5 to 7 foot-pounds. Holes can be aligned by turning output shaft and holding governor body. (3) If governor body has been removed and reinstalled, torque the four governor body screws from 6 to 8 foot-pounds torque. (4) Place governor weight assembly (secondary weight snap ring facing out) into governor body; and using pliers, C-3229 install snap ring. Make sure snap ring seats properly.

GOVERNOR VALVE AND SHAFT

SUPPORT TO TRANSMISSION CASE SCREW

56x664

Fig. 37—Removal and Installation of Governor Valve Shaft and Valve

(5) With the governor body through the output shaft and governor weight assembly, at the same time, position valve into body. (6) Install the governor valve shaft snap ring. Make sure it is locked securely to shaft. Replace snap ring if distorted. After snap ring installation apply sufficient pressure to both ends of the valve shaft to force snap rings to outer portion of snap ring grooves. Refer to Figure 110. (7) Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in body. OVERNOR BODY AND SUPPORT

!5óx665Ï 38—Removal and Installation of Governor Body and Support Assembly

380

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(8) Install transmission extension.

Rear Oil Pump—-(Removal) (1) Remove transmission extension, then refer to Governor—Removal, Paragraph 6. Using a s c r e w driver, remove the governor valve shaft snap ring from weight assembly end. Remove governor valve shaft and valve from governor valve bodyassembly. Using pliers, C-3229 remove governor weight assembly snap ring (large one) and remove governor weight assembly from governor body. Remove governor locating screw from governor support. Remove* the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support screws and washers, and install guide studs, Tool C-3288. (3) Remove pump housing, gear, and governor assembly from output shaft. (4) Use dye and mark pump gears in relation to pump housing face. Do not use scribe. Oil pump pinion is k e y e d to output shaft pinion b y a small ball. Use c a r e w h e n removing pinion so not to lose ball. NOTE: If output shaft is turned to a position w h e r e g o v e r n o r locating s c r e w h o l e is u p , w h e n removing r e a r pump pinion, pump d r i v e ball will a l s o be u p , p r e v e n t i n g ball from falling out. (5) Remove rear oil pump pinion from output shaft and mark in the same manner. (6) Remove governor assembly from oil pump housing.

Installation (1) Slide governor support and body assembly into position in rear oil pump housing. Compress g o v e r n o r support s e a l rings a s support e n t e r s oil p u m p h o u s i n g . Do not force. (2) Place rear oil pump pinion ball in ball pocket in output shaft. (3) Place rear oil pump pinion (as marked when removed) over output shaft and into position aligning key in pinion with ball in shaft. (4) With rear oil pump gear properly positioned in pump housing (check marking), slide rear oil pump and governor assemblies over output shaft and guide studs into position against support. T h e r e a r e t w o e x t r a h o l e s i n h o u s i n g w h i c h a r e u s e d for v e n t s . M a k e definitely s u r e y o u d o not attempt to install s c r e w s i n t h e s e h o l e s . (5) Remove guide studs and install the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support screws and washers. CAUTION: D i s h e d w a s h e r s a r e u s e d to p r e v e n t cutting of soft m e t a l s a n d should b e i n s t a l l e d o n s c r e w s with d i s h e d portion f a c i n g a w a y from h e a d . D r a w d o w n e v e n l y a n d t o r q u e from 10 to 12

foot-pounds. After s c r e w s h a v e b e e n p r o p e r l y t i g h t e n e d , turn output shaft to m a k e s u r e p u m p g e a r s a r e f r e e to rotate. If not, r e m o v e p u m p to d e t e r m i n e c a u s e . (6) Align locating hole in output shaft to locating screw hole in governor support; install locating screw, and torque from 5 to 7 foot-pounds. H o l e s c a n b e e a s i l y a l i g n e d b y turning output shaft a n d h o l d i n g g o v e r n o r body. (7) Refer to Governor—Installation, Paragraph 6. (8) Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in body. (9) Install transmission extension.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF TRANSMISSION Removal (1) Disconnect battery. (2) Place push button control in 1 (low) position and raise vehicle off floor. It is n e c e s s a r y for control to b e i n this position to r e m o v e c a b l e from a d a p t o r h o u s i n g o n transmission. (3) Drain transmission and torque converter. When fluid has drained, replace torque converter drain plug and tighten. Loosen filler tube support bracket screw if necessary. (4) Disconnect the front universal joint and secure propeller shaft out of the way. (5) Remove brake adjusting screw cover plate and loosen cable clamp bolt on hand brake support. (6) Disengage the ball end of the cable from the operating lever and remove cable from brake support. (7) Disconnect speedometer cable and housing at transmission extension. (8) Disconnect neutral starting switch wire. (9) Disconnect throttle control linkage from throttle lever in transmission. (10) Loosen push button control cable adjustable mounting bracket. (11) Remove control cable adapter housing plug, insert screwdriver through hole, and release the control cable spring lock. While releasing control cable lock, remove cable from adaptor housing. Using the same screwdriver, insert through cable opening in adaptor housing and push lever rearward to last detent. Reinstall housing plug and tighten. (12) Remove the two nuts and lockwashers that hold the engine rear support insulator to the crossmember, leaving insulator attached to transmission. (13) Remove starter. (14) Install engine support fixture, Tool C-3487; insert hooks of fixture firmly into holes in side of frame member with support ends up against the underside of oil pan flange. Adjust fixture to support the weight of the engine.

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE (15) Raise engine slightly, remove crossmember to torsion bar bracket bolts and remove crossmember. When using fixture. Tool C-3487, do not lower engine more than three inches from floor pan to avoid disrupting the set position of water hose and other engine attachments. (16) Remove the two transmission case to torque converter housing screws and lockwashers from right side and install guide studs, Tool C-3276. (17) With transmission supported, remove the two transmission case to torque converter housing screws and lockwashers from left side. Slide transmission straight back to avoid damage to the front oil pump driving sleeve, then lower to the floor.

Installation (1) Install guide studs, Tool C-3276 in the two transmission mounting holes in right side of torque converter housing. (2) With front oil pump drive sleeve lubricated, install, making sure driving lugs are properly engaged with oil pump pinion. Main portion of d r i v e s l e e v e will b e flush with front of p u m p housing w h e n p r o p e r l y i n s t a l l e d . Refer to F i g u r e 1 0 4 . (3) Note position of driving lugs inside torque converter hub, then position front oil pump drive sleeve on transmission accordingly, to aic>in proper engagement when transmission is installed. (4) Slide transmission over guide studs and into position against converter housing. Make sure driving lugs on front oil pump drive sleeve properly engage the torque converter. To a v o i d d a m a g e to front oil p u m p , d o not attempt to u s e transmission to torque c o n v e r t e r h o u s i n g s c r e w s to bring transmission a n d h o u s i n g t o g e t h e r . If oil p u m p d r i v e s l e e v e a n d input shaft h a v e b e e n p r o p e r l y a l i g n e d , t h e transmission should slide into position r e l a t i v e l y e a s y . D o not force. (5) Install the two transmission case to torque converter housing screws and lockwashers in left side, do not tighten. (6) Remove guide studs and install the two transmission case to housing screws and lockwashers in right side, then draw the four down evenly and torque from 45 to 50 foot-pounds. (7) Place crossmember into position and install the crossmember to torsion bar bracket bolts. Torque from 50 to 55 foot-pounds. (8) Lower engine and at the same time align mounting studs in insulator with holes in crossmember. (9) Install the two nuts and lockwashers that hold the engine rear support insulator to the crossmember and torque from 30 to 35 foot-pounds. (10) Remove support fixture, Tool C-3487 from side of frame member. (11) Connect neutral starting switch wire to switch.

381

(12) Install oil pan filler tube and torque filler tube nut from 35 to 40 foot-pounds. Tighten support bracket screw. (13) Connect speedometer cable in housing extension. (14) Engage ball end of hand brake cable in operating lever and tighten cable clamp bolt. (15) Install adj usting brake screw cover plate on hand brake support. (16) Connect front universal joint and torque nuts from 33 to 37 foot-pounds. (17) Connect throttle control linkage to throttle lever on transmission. (18) Install push button control cable in adapter making sure spring lock engages cable. (19) Adjust manual control cable. Refer to "Maintenance Adjustments and Tests," Paragraph 1. Tighten cable adjustable mounting bracket nut securely. (20) Install starter. (21) Lower vehicle and connect battery. (22) Refill transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Refer to Lubrication Section of this manual. (23) Adjust throttle linkage.

RECONDITIONING OF TRANSMISSION 6.

REMOVAL OF COMPONENTS

The following precautions should be observed during disassembly of the transmission. (1) Cleanliness through the entire disassembly and assembly cannot be over-emphasized. Unit should be thoroughly cleaned when removed from vehicle, preferably by steam. When disassembling, each part should be placed in a suitable solvent, washed, then dried by compressed air. D o not w i p e parts with shop towels. (2) All of the mating surfaces in the transmission are accurately machined; therefore, careful handling of parts must be exercised to avoid nicks or burrs. (3) The use of crocus cloth is permissible where necessary, providing it is used carefully. When used on valves, use extreme care so not to round off the sharp edges. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type valve. Sharp edges prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and body, thus reducing the possibilities of sticking. (4) When it becomes necessary to recondition the transmission, and vehicle has accumulated considerable mileage, install new seal rings on parts requiring their usage.

Oil Panâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removal (1) Place transmission assembly in stand. Tool C-3280 and invert, as shown in Figure 39. (2) Remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan and gasket, as shown in Figure 40. Note the construction of oil pan bolts, washers used are part of the bolt.

382

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL OIL STRAINER

^ _ _ L->r*r=^-:^Zïz¿~*^

-STAND—TOOL 56x600

Fig. 39—Transmission Assembly Inverted in Stand LOW AND REVERSE SERVO OIL STRAINER

ACCUMULATOR COVER

ƒ K!CKDOWN SERVO

Fig. 42—Removing Oil Strainer Assembly ACCUMULATOR COVER

VALVE BODIES AND TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLY

57x234

Fig. 40—Transmission Assembly—Oil Pan Removed CONTROL CABLE ADAPTER HOUSING

MANUAL VALV CONTROL LEVE

Fig. 43—Removal and Installation of Accumulator Cover

56x601

Fig. 41—Removal and Installation of Control Cable Adaptor Housing

Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate—Removal

(1) Remove throttle control lever, flat washer, and felt washer from transmission. (2) Remove the three gearshift control cable adaptor housing bolts and washers. Remove housing gasket from transmission as shown in Figure 41. Manual v a l v e control l e v e r must b e m o v e d to t h e r e v e r s e position before housing c a n b e r e moved. (3) Loosen manual valve control lever bolt. Using caution to prevent loss of cable adaptor pin, slide lever and cable adaptor off shaft.

56x604

Fig. 44—Removal and Installation of Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly (Typical View)

(4) Remove the four oil strainer assembly bolts and lock washers. Remove oil strainer assembly, as shown in Figure 42. One strainer is used for both the front and rear oil pumps.

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE FRONT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER ASSEMBLY

383

TOOL

REAR CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER ASSEMBLY*

56×6O5

Fig. 45—Checking Front Clutch Piston Retainer Assembly End Clearance

(5) Loosen (to relieve spring load) the three accumulator cover bolts with washers, and remove cover and spring from transfer plate as shown in Figure 43. (6) Remove the three transfer plate bolts and washers. (7) Remove the valve bodies and transfer plate assembly from transmission case as shown in Figure 44. Mating surfaces are machined: use extreme care so as not to damage these surfaces. Place valve body in stand, Tool C-3528. (8) Remove the neutral starting switch with cupped washer and "O" ring located in left side of transmission case a s shown in Figure 21. Checking Front Clutch End Clearance Prior to removal of propeller shaft flange and drum assembly, check end clearance of front clutch piston retainer assembly using dial indicator, Tool C-3339, as shown in Figure 45. To make this check, pry front clutch forward by carefully inserting screwdriver between the front and rear clutch. Remove screwdriver, and with dial indicator point contacting edge of front clutch retainer, set dial indicator to zero. Now, pry front clutch assembly rearward against rear clutch, remove screwdriver, and take indicator reading. This clearance should be from .020" to .050". If this clearance exceeds the specified limit, particular attention should be paid to the condition of the input shaft thrust washer when disassembling transmission. Hand Brake Assembly—Removal (1) Remove the transmission flange nut and washer. Use wrench. Tool C-3281, to hold brake drum and flange assembly. (Refer to Figure 46.) (2) Attach puller. Tool C-452 (if necessary) and remove propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. Inspect oil seal surfaces. Inspect lining contact surfaces on brake drum assembly for scoring and inspect brake lining for wear. (3) Remove the transmission brake support grease shield spring. This spñng has two purposes, it acts a s

57x98

Fig. 46—Removing Handbrake Drum and Flange Assembly

a guide for the brake shoes and retains the brake support grease shield to the transmission extension. (See Figure 47). (4) Remove the brake support grease shield from extension. If a s c r e w d r i v e r or s h a r p instrument is u s e d i n r e m o v i n g this s h i e l d , c a r e must b e e x e r c i s e d not to d a m a g e the n e o p r e n e s e a l i n g s u r f a c e a t bottom of s h i e l d . Note t h e i n d e n t on g r e a s e s h i e l d for correct positioning o n extension. (5) Using a suitable drift, remove pin which secures brake shoe anchor in extension housing. (6) Slide balance of handbrake assembly intact from extension housing. Inspect spacer (neoprene) on back of support plate for deterioration and note the steel sleeve used between neoprene spacer and extension. Transmission Extension—Removal (1) Remove the speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly, as shown in Figure 48. N y l o n g e a r c a n b e e a s i l y d a m a g e d if e x t e n s i o n i s r e m o v e d without first r e m o v i n g the s p e e d o m e t e r d r i v e pinion a n d s l e e v e a s s e m b l y . (2) Inspect the output shaft rear bearing oil seal and remove (if necessary) using puller, Tool C-748. (3) Remove the seven transmission extension to case bolts and lockwashers. (4) Install guide studs. Tool C-3283 and remove extension from output shaft support assembly by tapping housing lightly with a soft hammer. Housing m a y b e s e p a r a t e d from support by u s i n g a p r y b a r a g a i n s t support s c r e w , a s s h o w n i n F i g u r e 4 9 . (5) Remove extension gasket. Governor and Rear Oil Pump Housing—Removal (1) Using a small screwdriver, r e m o v e t h e g o v e r n o r v a l v e shaft s n a p r i n g from t h e w e i g h t assembly end a s shown in Figure 5 0 . (2) Remove governor valve shaft and valve from governor valve body assembly, as shown in Figure 51. (3) Using pliers, Tool C-3229, remove governor weight assembly snap ring (large), as shown in Figure 52, and

384

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER LINK

BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR BRAKE SUPPORT

BRAKE SHOE & LINING ASSY

BRAKE SUPPORT SPAŒR

SHAFT FLANGE & BRAKE DRUM ASSY

BRAKE SUPPORT SPACER SLEEVE

BRAKE ADJUSTING I SCREW COVER I BRAKE ADJUSTING SCREW COVER SCREW

1 SHAFT FLANGE WASHER SHAFT FLANGE NUT BRAKE SUPPORT GREASE SHIELD SPRING BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING

BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW , BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER , BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW LOCKWASHER , BRAKE SHOE OPERATING LEVER SCREW NUT BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE

Fig. 47—Internal Expanding Hand Brake {Disassembled View)

EXTENSION

GUIDE STUD

53x60

Fig. 48—Removal and Installation of Speedometer Drive Pinion Assembly

remove governor weight assembly from governor body, as shown in Figure 53. (4) Using a ‰ inch socket (Tool C-3279) remove governor locating screw from the governor support. (5) Remove the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support bolts <ind washers. Remove pump housing, gear, and governor assembly from output shaft, as shown in Figure 54. Use dye and mark face of pump gear in relation to pump housing. Do not u s e scribe.

56x6O¿f Fig. 49—Removal of Extension

Oil pump pinion is keyed to output shaft by a small ball. Use care when removing pinion so as not to loose ball. (6) Remove rear oil pump pinion from output shaft, as shown in Figure 55. Mark in the same manner as previously described. Output Shaft Support—Removal (1) Remove output shaft support to transmission case screw and washer.

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

385

"56x610

Fig. 50—Removal and Installation of Governor Valve Shaft Snap Ring

Fig. 53—Removal and Installation of Governor Weight Assembly OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT SCREW V.

OUTPUT SHAFT GOVERNOR VALVE SHAFT

GOVERNOR AND REAR OIL PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLIES

56x611

GOVERNOR VALVE 56x608

Fig. 54—Removal and Installation of Governor and Rear Oil Pump Housing Assemblies

Fig. 51—Removal and Installation of Governor Valve and Shaft REAR OJL_PUMP PINION BALL REAR OIL PUMP PINION KEYW¯AY

GOVERNOR LOCATING SCREW 56x609

Fig. 52—Removal and Installation of Governor Weight Assembly Snap Ring

REAR OIL PUMP PINION

53x35 Fig. 55—Removal and Installation of Rear Oil Pump Pinion

386

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

UNIT NO. 2

56x612

Fig. 56—Removal and Installation of Output Shaft Support 56x615

Fig. 59—Removal of Unit No. 2

56x613

Fig. 57—Removal and Installation of Unit No. 1

êå

Fig. 60—Removal and Installation of Unit No. 3

56x613

Fig. 58—Removal and Installation of Intermediate Support Locating Screw (2) Slide the output shaft rear support assembly and gasket from transmission case, as shown in Figure 56. If rear support is stuck to transmission case, it can be loosened by tapping lightly with a soft hammer. (3) Remove guide studs, Tool C-3283 from transmission case. Removing Power Train Unit No. 1 (Output Shaft, K¡ckdown Planet Pinion Carrier, and Intermediate Shaft Assemblies) (1) Remove by sliding unit out rear of transmission case. (Refer to Figure 57). Support unit a s much a s possible, when removing, to prevent damage to seal rings on intermediate shaft.

¿¯vk .56xóÍ7~ Fig. 61—Removal and Installation of Low-Reverse Band

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFUTE Removing Power Unit No. 2 (Sun Gear, Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier, Overrunning Clutch, and Rear Clutch Assemblies.) (1) Loosen lock nuts on low-reverse and kickdown band adjusting screws, and back adjusting screws out 2 to 3 turns. (2) Remove the three intermediate support locating bolts and lockwashers (two outside of case and one inside). (Refer to Figure 58.) W h e n r e m o v i n g unit, identify l o c a t i n g h o l e i n t h e i n t e r m e d i a t e support to c o r r e s p o n d with t h e t h r e a d e d l o c a t i n g h o l e i n s i d e of c a s e for i n s t a l l a t i o n p u r p o s e s . (Refer t o F i g u r e 1 0 8 . ) (3) Keep unit centered as much as possible to prevent binding of intermediate support, and remove assembly from transmission case, as shown in Figure 59. Make sure front clutch and sun gear thrust washer remains in position in front of unit.

387 KICKDOWN BAND STRUT

KICKDOWN BAND ADJUSTING SCREW

156x618! Fig. 62—Removal and Installation of Kickdown Band Strut

Removing Unit No. 3 (Front Clutch Piston Retainer and Input Shaft Assemblies.) (I) Keep unit centered as much as possible, and remove from transmission case, as shown in Figure 60. Use extreme care when removing to prevent damage to seal rings on input shaft and sealing surfaces in reaction shaft (aluminum). Low-Reverse Band Assembly—Removal (1) Mark the low-reverse band assembly for installation purposes; then compress ends of band sufficiently to remove the low-reverse band strut. (2) Remove low-reverse band assembly by rotating band ends through rear opening in transmission case, as shown in Figure 61. (3) Remove low-reverse band anchor from adjusting screw.

¿56x619

63—Removal and Installation of K¡ckdown Band !LOW A N D REVERSE

BAND LEVER t

Kickdown Band—Removal (1) Compress kickdown band ends sufficiently to remove the kickdown band strut, see Figure 62. (Note that strut is grooved to act as a guide.) (2) Remove the kickdown band anchor from adjusting screw. (3) Remove the kickdown band assembly by rotating band ends over center support in transmission case, as shown in Figure 63. Use extreme care when removing band so not to damage lining against edges of transmission case. Both bands have bonded lining and no attempt should be made to reline them. The kickdown band is wider and has a different lining material. Low-Reverse and Kickdown Band Lever Assemblies—Removal (1) Remove kickdown and reverse lever shaft stop plug at rear of transmission case.

IKICKDOWN AND REVERSE LEVER SHAFT

KICKDOWN BAND LEVER

56x620

Fig. 64—Removal and Installation of Kickdown and Reverse Lever Shaft (2) Using a pair of long-nosed pliers, remove kickdown and low-reverse shaft lever spacer (flat). (3) Thread a guide stud, Tool C-3288, into shaft, and remove shaft from case, a s shown in Figure 64. (4) Remove kickdown and low-reverse servo levers.

388

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

USE

/ 3 2 " DRILL

TOOL ACCUMULATOR PISTON

56x621

Fig. 65—Modification of Tool C-3289 Fig. 68—Removal and Installation of Accumulator Piston

Low-Reverse Servo—Removal (1) Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified as shown in Figure 65) on transmission case and compress piston spring retainer. D u e to modification of tool, o n l y o n e a t t a c h i n g bolt c a n b e u s e d . (2) Using a screw driver, remove the low-reverse servo piston spring retainer snap ring, as shown in Figure 66. Loosen compression portion of tool, and remove. S p r i n g r e t a i n e r m a y r e q u i r e g u i d i n g out of transmission c a s e . (3) Remove the spring retainer, spring and servo piston assembly. 56x622 Fig. 66—Removal and Installation of Low-Reverse Servo Piston Spring Retainer Snap Ring

TOOL

SNAP RING

Kickdown Servo—Removal (1) Reinstall Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified as shown in Figure 65), apply sufficient pressure on the kickdown piston rod guide, and remove the snap ring, as shown in Figure 67. (2) Loosen compressing portion of tool, and remove from transmission case. Remove piston rod guide, piston spring, and piston rod. (3) Using pliers. Tool C-484, remove the kickdown piston from the transmission case. (4) Using pliers, Tool C-484, remove the accumulator piston from transmission case, as shown in Figure 68.

Front Oil Pump—Removal

56x624 Fig. 67—Removal and Installation of Kickdown Piston Rod Guide Snap Ring

(1) Remove front oil pump drive sleeve (if installed). (2) Remove the transmission regulator valve spring retainer, gasket, cup, spring, sleeve and valve as shown in Figures 69, 70 and 71. (3) Remove the torque converter control valve spring retainer, gasket, spring, and valve. These valves can be removed with the aid of a mechanical retriever or a piece of welding rod (%2 inch for regulator valve and ¼ inch for torque converter valve) inserted in end of valve, as shown in Figure 30. The converter valve is

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

389

GASKET CUP SPRING

RETAINER 57x232 Éå Fig. 6 9 — R e m o v a l a n d Installation of Regulator V a l v e Retainer a n d Gasket

FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING

56x627 Fig. 72—Removal of Front Oil Pump Housing Assembly

Fig. 7 0 — R e m o v a l a n d Installation of Regulator

REGULATOR VALVE BODY

V a l v e Spring a n d Sleeve 56x628 SPRING SEAT

Fig. 73—Removing Regulator Valve Body ADJUSTING SCREW

housing for reassembly purposes. Do not scribe.

Fig. 71—Regulator Valve Assembly (Disassembled View)

Regulator Valve Body—Removal (1) Install guide studs, Tool C-3288; and using the two threaded holes provided in the regulator valve body, install guide studs, Tool C-3283, as shown in Figure 73. Pull regulator valve body off of torque converter reaction shaft and remove gasket. Regulator valve body (Figure 74) is made of aluminum and requires care in handling to avoid damage.

so constructed that it will not drop into front housing during removal. (4) Remove the seven front oil pump housing to transmission case bolts and washers. Sealing washers used under bolts are made from aluminum; discard if damaged. (5) Remove oil pump housing assembly from transmission case by tapping housing lightly with a soft hammer, as shown in Figure 72. Using d y e , mark pump gears in relation to face of oil pump

Torque Converter Reaction Shaft—Removal Refer to "Inspection of Torque Converter Reaction Shaft." If inspection reveals it is necessary to remove torque converter reaction shaft, proceed as follows: (1) Remove torque converter reaction shaft seal ring (neoprene). (2) Remove the three transmission case to reaction shaft bolts and washers. (3) Using Tool C-3531, press reaction shaft out of transmission case, as shown in Figure 75.

VALVE SLEEVE SPRING

57x236

SPRING CUP

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

390 FRONT AND REAR PUMP CHECK VALVE

56x651

^«^mZZZ**>^

TORQUE CONVERTER CONTROL VALVE

REGULATOR VALVE

Fig. 7 4 — R e g u l a t o r V a l v e Body a n d Valves

REACTION SHAFT

WHl mam •T^^,.·¾W

- iiiaìis=sži

¯ -, - ~~-

I. * ` rb i i i i i i i

- , '< i i l l l l

Fig. 75—Removal and Installation of Torque Converter Reaction Shaft

DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION AND ASSEMBLY OF COMPONENT PARTS

The following precautions should be observed during assembly of component parts. (1) Where lubrication is required, use Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). D o not u s e a s e a l i n g m a t e r i a l o n a n y g a s k e t or mating surface, always use n e w gaskets. (2) Torque all bolts and nuts to correct specifications. (Refer to Specifications Section of this manual.) (3) Where snap rings are used, always make sure they are seated properly. (4) If mating parts do not go together properly,

always check reason. Do not force parts unnecessarily. Torque Converfer Reaction Shaft—Inspection Inspect inside of torque converter reaction shaft for burrs. Inspect splines on shaft for burrs and wear. Inspect the reaction shaft seal ring (neoprene) for deterioration and hardness. Inspect thrust surface for wear and slight scores. Do not remove the torque con-

verter reaction shaft unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. Transmission Case—Inspection Inspect transmission case for cracks, sand holes, and stripped threads. Check for burrs on mating surfaces. Blow compressed air through all passages to make sure they are open. Check pressure take-off plugs for tightness. Using straight edge, Tool C-3335, inspect valve body mating surface on transmission case for any burrs or irregularity in surface. Surfaces should be smooth and flat. Inspect servo and accumulator bores for any scores or scratches. Light scratches may be removed with crocus cloth. Check regulator valve body mating surface in front of case for any irregularities. Disregard any scratches which may have been caused by torque converter reaction shaft bolt lock washers. Low-Reverse and Kickdown Bands Adjusting Screws—Inspection It is vitally important that adjusting screws fit freely into transmission case. When lock nuts a r e loose, the adjusting screws must be finger free. If not, inspect screws and nuts for pulled threads or foreign material in threads. This is very important in obtaining proper band adjustments. Transmission Extension—Inspection (1) Inspect extension for cracks in casting and remove burrs from gasket surface. (2) Inspect vent (drive type) in top of extension and make sure it is open and free from dirt, undercoating, etc. The purpose of this vent is to prevent vacuum from forming in transmission case when it is drained. Vent also releases fumes and expansion of oil caused by hsat. (3) Clean output shaft rear bearing and dry with compressed air.

(4) Do not spin bearing with air pressure. Inspect bearing for rough spots. Do not remove bearing from extension unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. Output Shaft Rear Bearing—Removal If necessary to remove rear bearing, proceed as follows: (1) Remove output shaft rear bearing oil seal—if installed. (2) Using pliers. Tool C-760 and remove the output shaft rear bearing snap ring. Inspect ring for distortion. (3) Using driver, Tool C-3275, drive output shaft rear bearing out of rear extension, as shown in Figure 76.

Output Shaft Rear Bearing and Oil SealInstallation (1) Using driver, Tool C-3204, install the output shaft

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFLITE

391

REAR EXTENSION

53x64A Fig. 76—Removing Output Shaft Rear Bearing

C-3205 DRIVER OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARINQ OIL SEAL

53x25 A Fig. 78—Installing Output Shaft Rear Bearing Oil Seal

C-3204 DRIVER

OUTER WEIGHT SNAP RING OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING VALVE SHAFT SNAP RING

WEIGHT SPRING

EXTENSION 53x27 A Fig. 77—Installing

INNER WEIGHT SNAP RING VALVE SHAFT INNER WEIGHT

Output Shaft Rear Bearing

rear bearing in extension, as shown in Figure 77. Make sure bearing is properly seated, then lubricate with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). (2) Install output shaft rear bearing snap ring. S n a p rings available in two sizes, select one to give minimum clearance. (3) Using driver. Tool C-3205, install output shaft rear bearing oil seal (with metal portion of seal facing in) until tool bottoms on extension, as shown in Figure 78.

Governor Disassembly and Inspection (Refer to Figure 79) (1) Using pliers, Tool C-339, remove snap ring from governor weight assembly. K e e p thumb p r e s s u r e against secondary weight when removing s n a p r i n g (spring l o a d e d ) . (2) Remove governor secondary weight and spring. Inspect all parts for burrs and wear. Check secondary weight for free movement in primary weight by placing secondary weight in primary weight without the spring. Primary weight should fall freely when both

BODY TO SUPPORT SCREW AND LOCKWASHER (4)

OUTER WEIGHT BODY SUPPORT

VALVE SHAFT SNAP RING LOCATING SCREW ^SUPPORT SEAL RINGS 56x716A

Fig. 79—Governor Assembly (Disassembled View)

parts are clean and dry. Inspect governor weight spring for distortion. (3) Place secondary weight and spring in primary weight, compress spring and install snap ring. Make sure snap ring is seated properly. (4) Slide governor body and support from rear oil pump housing. (5) Remove the two governor support seal rings and inspect. (6) Remove the four governor body to support bolts and lockwashers. Separate body from support. Washers are part of bolt and serviced as an assembly. Mating surfaces are machined and can

392

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 82—Removal and Installation of Output Shaft Drive Housing Snap Ring

53x66 Fig. 80—Checking Clearance Between Rear Pump Body and Gears

UNIT NO. 1

HAND BRAKE DRUM

56x632 Fig. 81—Using Propeller Shaft Flange and Brake Drum Assembly As a Holding Fixture For Unit No. 1

be easily damaged. Inspect oil passages and make sure they are free from dirt or foreign matter. Clean passages with compressed air. Inspect governor valve and body for slight scores. Valve should travel freely in governor body. Rear Oil Pump—Inspection (1) Inspect oil pump housing machined surfaces for nicks and burrs and housing plug for leaks. Inspect oil pump gears for scoring or pitting. (2) With gears cleaned and installed in pump housing (as marked) and using straight edgeƒ Tool C-3335 (and feeler gauge), check clearance between pump housing face and face of gears, as shown in Figure 80. Clearance limits are from .001 to .0025 inch.

Governor Assembly—Reassembly (1) Lubricate the two governor support seal rings with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and install on the governor support. Make sure they are free to rotate in grooves. (2) Position governor body on support and install the four bolts with attached lockwashers. Do not tighten bolts at this time. (3) Slide governor support and body assembly into position in rear oil pump housing. Compress governor support seal rings with fingers as support enters oil pump housing. Do not force. Output Shaft Support—Inspection Inspect all oil passages in output shaft support for any obstructions. Remove pressure take-off plugs (governor and rear clutch apply—Figure 21) and clean passages with compressed air. Check rear oil pump mating surface for burrs and score marks. Check for stripped threads in support. Inspect gasket surfaces for burrs and dirt. Inspect inside bearing surface for wear and scoring. 8.

DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION AND ASSEMBLY OF POWER TRAIN UNITS Unit No. 7 (Output Shaft, Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier, and Intermediate Shaft Assemblies)—Disassembly Unit can be placed in the propeller flange and brake drum assembly to aid in disassembly, as shown in Figure 81. (1) Using a screwdriver, remove output shaft drive housing snap ring, as shown in Figure 82. Refer to Figure 83 and complete disassembly of unit as follows: (2) Remove reverse annulus gear (B) from output shaft assembly (J). (3) Remove intermediate shaft (C) and kickdown carrier assemblies (E) from output shaft assembly. (4) Remove output shaft thrust washer (D) located inside of housing. (5) Remove kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFUTE

393

M 56x631

Fig. 83—Unit No. 1 (Disassembled View) A—Output Shaft Drive Housing Snap Ring B—Reverse Annulus Gear C—Intermediate Shaft Assembly D—Output Shaft Thrust Washer E—Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier Assembly F—Kickdown Carrier Thrust Washer G—Sun Gear Thrust Washer (Roller)

(E) from intermediate shaft assembly (C). The kickd o w n p l a n e t pinion c a r r i e r a s s e m b l y u s e d i n this unit is i d e n t i c a l to t h e l o w - r e v e r s e p l a n e t p i n i o n c a r r i e r a s s e m b l y u s e d in Unit N o . 2 but should not be i n t e r c h a n g e d . (6) Remove kickdown carrier thrust washer (F) from carrier assembly (E). (7) Remove sun gear roller thrust washer (G) from intermediate shaft assembly. (8) With a screwdriver, remove kickdown annulus gear snap ring (H) a n d separate gear (I) from intermediate shaft assembly (C). Output Shaft—Inspection (1) Inspect speedometer drive gear for a n y nicks or burrs. Any nick or burr on gear surface can be removed with the use of a sharp edged stone. (2) Inspect thrust surfaces, journals, and inner bushing for scores or excessive wear. (3) Inspect riveting and housing for any cracks and internal driving lugs for excessive wear. Housing and output shaft is serviced a s a n assembly. (4) Inspect interlocking seal rings (K-L) on output shaft (J) for wear or broken locks, and make sure they turn freely in the grooves. D o n o t r e m o v e r i n g s u n l e s s c o n d i t i o n w a r r a n t s . When replacing rings, use extreme care so not to damage interlocking portion of ring. Make sure all oil passages are open by blowing out with compressed air.

H—Kickdown Annulus Gear Snap Ring I—Kickdown Annulus Gear J—Output Shaft Assembly K—Output Shaft Seal Ring (Small) L—Output Shaft Seal Ring (Large) M—Intermediate Shaft Seal Rings (Small) N—Intermediate Shaft Seal Rings (Large)

(5) Inspect output shaft and kickdown carrier thrust washers (D) and (F) for scratches or excessive wear. (6) Inspect sun gear (roller type) thrust washer (G) for pitted or cracked rollers. Intermediate Shaft Assembly—Inspection (1) Inspect all bearing and thrust surfaces for scoring or scratches. (2) Blow compressed air through all oil passages; make sure they are open and free of foreign matter. (3) Inspect the four large (N) and two small (M) interlocking seal rings for excessive wear, broken ends, and make sure they rotate freely in the grooves. (4) Intermediate shaft a n d clutch feed tubes a r e serviced a s a n assembly. Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier AssemblyInspection Inspect planet pinion carrier for cracks and pinions for broken or worn gear teeth. Using a feeler gauge, check end clearance on individual planet pinion gears, clearance should be .006 to .017 inch. Inspect pinion shafts for fit in the carrier and make sure pinions are free to rotate on shafts. Make sure shaft lock pins are installed. Do not replace carrier assembly unless inspection reveals it is necessary. The planet pinion carrier and pinions are serviced only as a complete assembly. Inspect kickdown carrier thrust washer (F) for scratches or excessive wear.

394

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL shaft flange and brake drum assembly which was removed from the transmission. (1) With output shaft assembly (J) in an upright position, lubricate output shaft thrust washer (D) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and place into position in housing. (2) Place kickdown annulus gear (I) in position on intermediate shaft assembly (C) and install snap ring (H) (select fit). (3) Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance under the kickdown annulus gear snap ring, as shown in Figure 84. Clearance limits are as close to zero as possible. Snap rings are available in the following two thicknesses: PT No. 1636357 .060" to .062" 1636358 .064" to .066"

Fig. 84—Checking Clearance Between K¡ckdown Annulus Gear Snap Ring and Intermediate Shaft Assembly

Reverse and K¡ckdown Annulus Gearsinspection Inspect for worn, cracked, or broken gear teeth. Unit No. 1 (Output Shaft, K¡ckdown Planet Pinion Carrier and Intermediate Shaft Assemblies)—Assembly To aid in the assembly of unit No. lƒ use the propeller

When checking c l e a r a n c e , support annulus g e a r on e d g e of bench so intermediate shaft will seat properly in g e a r . Make sure snap ring seats properly. (4) Place intermediate shaft assembly (C) in output shaft housing (J). (5) Lubricate kickdown carrier thrust washer (F) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and place in position on kickdown planet pinion carrier assembly (E). (6) Place carrier assembly (E) in position in kickdown

56x635A

Fig. 85—Unit No. 2 (Disassembled View) A—Front Clutch and Sun Gear Thrust Washer B—Sun Gear Rear Clutch Seal Rings C—Reverse Sun Gear D—Low and Reverse Band Drum Snap Ring E—Low and Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier Assembly F—Overrunning Clutch Hub Assembly G—Low and Reverse Band Drum H—Overrunning Clutch Cam Roller Springs I—Overrunning Clutch Cam Rollers J—Intermediate Support and Cam Assembly K—Rear Clutch Snap Ring

L—Rear Clutch Pressure Plate M—Rear Clutch Driving Disc N—Rear Clutch Plates O—Rear Clutch Piston Return Spring Snap Ring P—Rear Clutch Return Spring Retainer Q—Rear Clutch Piston Return Spring R—Rear Clutch Piston S—Rear Clutch Piston Seal Ring (Outer) T— Rear Clutch Piston Seal Ring (Inner) U—Rear Clutch Piston Retainer Assembly

395

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL annulus gear (I). Make sure thrust washer (F) remains in position. (7) Place reverse annulus gear (B) in position in housing (J) and install output shaft drive housing snap ring. Make sure snap ring seats properly in housing. (8) Lubricate and install sun gear (roller type) thrust washer (G) over intermediate shaft and into position in carrier assembly. Unit No. 2 (Sun Gear, Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier, Overrunning Clutch, and Rear Clutch Piston Retainer Assemblies)—Disassembly The letters referred to in the Disassembly, Inspection, and Assembly of this unit pertain to Figure 85. (1) With unit setting in upright position, remove sun gear and front clutch thrust washer (A). (2) Using two screw drivers, inserted between clutch and intermediate support, remove rear clutch retainer assembly from sun gear, as shown in Figure 86. (3) Remove the two rear clutch seal rings (neoprene) from sun gear. (4) Remove reverse sun gear from overrunning clutch and reverse planet pinion carrier assemblies, as shown in Figure 87.

(5) Install fixture, Tool C-3527, in intermediate support and cam assembly, as shown in Figure 88. (6) Remove intermediate support and cam assembly from overrunning clutch hub, as shown in Figure 89. (7) Using a screwdriver, remove snap ring (D) from low and reverse band drum assembly (G). (8) Remove the low and reverse planet pinion carrier assembly (E) from reverse band drum. (9) Remove overrunning clutch hub assembly from reverse band drum, as shown in Figure 90. (10) Remove overrunning clutch cam roller springs (H) and rollers (I) (ten each) by removing fixture, Tool C-3527, from intermediate support and cam assemly. Have assembly over bench when removing tool. INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT AND CAM ASSY

56x638

56x636 F¡g. 86—Removing Rear Clutch Piston Retainer Assembly From Sun Gear

88—Installation of Tool C¯3527 in Intermediate Support and Cam Assembly OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HUB

INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT A N D CAM ASSY

56x637

F¡g. 87—Removal and Installation of Sun Gear (Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier and Overrunning Clutch Assembly)

56x639

¡g. 89—Removal and Installation of Intermediate Support and Cam Assembly From Overrunning Clutch Hub

396

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL LOW AND REVERSE BAND DRUM OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HUB

TOOL

56x640 Fig. 90—Removal and Installation of Overrunning Clutch Hub in Low and Reverse Band Drum

Fig. 92—Removal and Installation of Rear Clutch Return Spring Retainer Snap Ring

(5) Release compressor, Tool C-3575, and remove the clutch return spring retainer (P) and spring (Q) from clutch piston retainer assembly. Spring retainer may require guiding past snap ring groove as tool is released. (7) Using a twisting motion, remove the clutch piston assembly (R) from retainer. (8) Remove rear clutch piston inner and outer seal rings (S & T). Clutch Driving Disc and Plate—Inspection Inspect driving discs for evidence of burning, glazing and flaking off of facing material. Check discs by scratching facings with finger nail; if material collects under nail, replace all of driving discs. Replace driving discs if splines become damaged. Inspect the steel clutch plates and pressure plate surfaces for evidence of burning, scoring, and damaged driving lugs; replace if necessary. Fig. 91—Removal and Installation of Rear Clutch Piston Retainer Snap Ring

Rear Clutch Piston Retainer AssemblyDisassembly (1) Using screwdriver, remove snap ring (large) from rear clutch piston retainer assembly, as shown in Figure 91. (2) Remove rear clutch pressure plate (L) from retainer assembly. (3) Invert clutch piston retainer assembly and remove the clutch plates (N) and driving disc (M) assemblies (four each). (4) Using compressor. Tool C-3575, slightly compress the rear clutch piston return spring retainer, as shown in Figure 92. Use extreme care not to damage piston return spring retainer by compressing spring too far.

Piston and Seal Rings—Inspection Inspect seal ring surfaces in piston retainer for nicks or deep scratches. Light scratches will not interfere with sealing of neoprene rings. (1) Inspect inner and outer piston seal rings (neoprene) for deterioriation, wear, and hardness. (2) Inspect seal ring groove in piston for nicks or burrs. (3) Inspect inside bore of the piston for score marks; if light, remove with crocus cloth; if heavy, replace the piston. (4) Inspect piston spring, retainer, and snap ring for distortion. Rear Clutch Piston Retainer Assembly—Inspection (1) Note the ball check in clutch retainer. The purpose of ball check is to relieve centrifugal oil pressure when transmission is in neutral or operating in drive (breakaway) and engine speeds are increased, other-

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFUTE wise clutch may engage. Make sure ball operates freely. (2) Inspect the band contacting surface for deep scores and burns, especially if the band lining is worn to the point where the steel band has been contacting the rear clutch piston retainer. D o n o t m a c h i n e t h e piston r e t a i n e r in a l a t h e to r e m o v e score marks. (3) Inspect steel clutch plate contacting surfaces for burrs or brinelling. Make sure clutch driving lugs on steel clutch plates travel freely into retainer. Remove any metal pickup on hub of retainer. Rear Clutch Piston Retainer—Assembly (1) Lubricate and install inner piston seal ring (T) on

hub of clutch retainer. Make definitely sure that lip of seal is facing down and seal is properly seated in groove. (2) Lubricate and install outer seal ring (S) on clutch piston (lip of seal facing away from flange.) (3) Place piston assembly (R) in clutch retainer (U) and with a twisting motion, seat piston in bottom of retainer. (4) Install piston return spring spring on hub and position spring retainer and snap ring on spring. (5) Using compressor, Tool C-3575, compress the clutch spring sufficiently to seat the snap ring, as shown in Figure 92. Piston spring r e t a i n e r m a y r e q u i r e guiding past t h e clutch h u b . Make s u r e s n a p ring is p r o p e r l y s e a t e d . (6) Remove compressor, Tool C-3575. Lubricate all clutch plates and drive discs with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). Assemble by placing one of the rear clutch steel plates, in the clutch retainer followed by a driving disc. Repeat this procedure until all four discs and four plates have been installed. D o

not install rear clutch pressure plate and snap ring at this time as the rear clutch pressure plate will be used as an assembly tool in selecting the proper front clutch clearance. The pressure plate should be thoroughly cleaned. Reverse Sun Gear Assembly—Inspection (1) Inspect gears for cracked or broken teeth. (2) Inspect steel back bronze type bushing for scoring or excessive wear. Bushing and reverse sun gear serviced as an assembly. (3) Inspect intermediate support bearing surface of gear for wear and slight scores. (4) Inspect rear clutch seal ring grooves on gear for nicks or burrs. (5) Inspect inner ring sealing area in bore of sun gear for grooves or scratches. (6) Inspect thrust area of sun gear for nicks, scratches, or burrs. (7) Inspect seal rings (neoprene) for deterioration, wear, nicks or hardness.

397

(8) Inspect fornt clutch and sun gear thrust washer for scratches or excessive wear. Intermediate Support and Cam Assembly— Inspection (1) Inspect riveting of cam to intermediate support. (2) Inspect cam roller surface for brinelling. (3) Inspect roller spring retaining tabs for being bent or distorted. (4) Inspect bearing surface on hub for scoring. (5) Inspect steel back bronze type bushing in hub for scratches or scoring and excessive wear. Bushing and intermediate support are serviced as an assembly. (6) Inspect overrunning clutch cam rollers for being pitted or scored. (7) Inspect overrunning cam roller springs for distortion. Replace if necessary. tow and Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier Assembly—Inspection (1) Inspect planet pinion carrier for cracks and rMnions for broken or worn gear teeth. (2) Using a feeler gauge, check end clearance on individual planet pinion gears, clearance should be .006 to .017 inch. (3) Inspect pinion shafts for fit in the carrier and make sure pinions are free to rotate on shafts. (4) Make sure shaft lock pins are installed. D o not

replace carrier assembly unless inspection reveals it is necessary. The planet pinion carrier and pinions are serviced only as a complete assembly. Low and Reverse Band Drum—Inspection (1) Inspect the band contacting surface for deep scratches and burns, especially if band lining is worn to the point where steel band has been contacting the drum. D o n o t attempt t o m a c h i n e t h e d r u m i n l a t h e to r e m o v e s c o r e m a r k s . (2) Inspect driving lugs inside of drum for excessive wear. Overrunning Clutch Hub Assembly—Inspection (1) Inspect cam roller contacting surface for brinelling. (2) Inspect steel back bronze type bushing in hub for scratching or scoring and excessive wear. Bushing and hub serviced as an assembly. (3) Inspect lubricating hole and make sure it is free from foreign matter by cleaning with compressed air. (4) Inspect reverse band drum snap ring (select fit) for being distorted. Unit No. 2—Assembly

(1) Install overrunning clutch hub assembly (hub first) into snap ring side of the low and reverse band drum, as shown in Figure 90.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

398

(1) Remove the input shaft fibre thrust washer (select OVERRUNNING CLUTCH ROLLER

OVERRUNNING CLUTCH CAM SPRING

TOOL

F¡g. 93—Installation of Overrunning Clutch Rollers and Springs in Intermediate Support and Cam Assembly

(2) Place low and reverse planet pinion carrier assembly (E) in position in low and reverse band drum (G). (3) With drum supported, select snap ring to give minimum clearance and install. Snap rings are available in the following three thicknesses: PT No. 1636315 .060" to .062" 1636316 .064" to .066" 1636317 .068" to .070" (4) Place fixture, Tool C-3527, in position in intermediate support and cam assembly, and install cam springs and rollers, as shown in Figure 93. M a k e defi-

nitely sure that c a m springs a n d rollers a r e properly seated against cam; otherwise, dama g e to springs m i l result w h e n overrunning clutch hub is installed. (5) With intermediate support and cam assembly resting on bench, lubricate bushing and install low and reverse band drum assembly over hub. (6) While holding the two assemblies together, remove fixture, Tool C-3527. (7) Lubricate bearing surface an reverse sun gear and install intermediate support and planet pinion carrier assembly. (8) Lubricate the two sun gear rear clutch seal rings (neoprene) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and install on reverse sun gear. (9) Install rear clutch piston retainer assembly on reverse sun gear. To prevent personal injury, do not place the fingers under the clutch retainer assembly when installing. (10) Install the front clutch and sun gear thrust wash-

er (A). Lubriplate may be used to hold the thrust washer in position. Unit No. 3—(Input Shaft and Front Clutch Piston Retainer Assemblies) Disassembly The letters referred to in the disassembly, inspection and reassembly of this unit, pertain to Figure 94.

fit) (A). During assembly, the front clutch cushion spring (S) w a s preloaded to 5 0 0 pounds. To remove snap ring (B) a n d input shaft, the front clutch assembly must be placed in a n arbor press. With the rear of retainer resting on a suitable support, press the input shaft only far enough into retainer to permit removal of the snap ring with a screwdriver. If a n arbor press is not a v a i l a b l e , two l a r g e "C" clamps m a y be used by placing them 180° apart a n d applying equal pressure. If " C " clamps a r e used, m a k e sure they a r e positioned so a s not to d a m a g e the ball check located in back side of retainer. (2) Slowly release pressure on arbor press, then remove the retainer and input shaft from the arbor press. (3) Remove the input shaft assembly (C) from the clutch piston retainer (N). (4) Invert the front clutch piston retainer, and remove the cushion spring retaining plate (T), cushion spring (S), driving disc (4) (D), clutch plates, (3), (E), pressure plate (F) and clutch hub (G). (5) Install compressor Tool C-3575, then compress the front clutch piston return spring retainer (I). (6) Using pliers, Tool C-3301, remove the piston return spring snap ring (H). (7) Release and remove fixture, Tool C-3575. Remove the clutch piston return spring retainer (I) and spring (J). (8) Remove lever retainer (K) and levers (L) from front clutch piston retainer (N). (9) Using a twisting motion, remove the piston assembly from the retainer, as shown in Figure 95.

Input Shaft—Inspection (1) Inspect the input shaft thrust washer (A) for cracks or excessive wear. Inspect front clutch snap ring (B) for distortion. Inspect interlocking seal rings (O & P) for wear or broken locks. Make sure they turn freely in the

grooves. Do not remove rings unless condition w a r r a n t s . When replacing rings, use extreme care not to damage interlock portion of ring. Make sure all oil passages are open by blowing out with compressed air. (2) Check splines and lugs for nicks or burrs. Inspect bearing and thrust surfaces for nicks or scratches. (3) Inspect steel back bronze type bushing for scratches or scoring or excessive wear. Bushing and input shaft are serviced as an assembly.

Clutch Driving Discs, Plates, and Hub—Inspection (1) Inspect driving discs (D) for evidence of burning, glazing, and flaking off of facing material. Check discs by scratching facings with finger nail; if material collects under nail, replace all of driving discs. Replace driving

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

399

5óxó46A

F¡g. 94—Unit No. 3 (Disassembled View) A—Input Shaft Thrust Washer B—Front Clutch Snap Ring C—Input Shaft Assembly D—Front Clutch Driving Discs E—Front Clutch Plates F—Front Pressure Plate G—Front Clutch Driving Disc Hub H—Front Clutch Piston Return Spring Snap Ring I—Front Clutch Piston Return Spring Retainer J—Front Clutch Return Spring

discs if splines have become damaged. Inspect the steel clutch plates (E) cushion spring retaining plate ¢T), and pressure plate (F) surface for evidence of burning, scoring, and damaged lugs; replace if necessary. Inspect cushion spring (S) for distortion and evidence of scoring. (2) Inspect lever contacting surface on pressure plate for evidence of wear. (3) Inspect clutch hub (G) driving lugs for wear and remove any metal pickup which may have accumulated on either side of the hub. (4) Inspect splines in center of hub for burrs and wear.

K—Front Clutch Piston Lever Retainer L—Front Clutch Piston Levers M— Front Clutch Piston N—Front Clutch Piston Retainer O—Input Shaft Oil Seal Ring (Small) P—Input Shaft Oil Seal Ring (Large) Q—Front Clutch Piston Seal Ring (Inner) R-Front Clutch Piston Seal Ring (Outer) S—Front Clutch Piston Cushion Spring T—Front Clutch Piston Cushion Spring Retaining Plate

(Oil passages in hub are to lubricate clutch plates.) Make sure they are free of foreign matter.

Front Clutch Piston, Seal, and Levers—Inspection (1) Inspect levers (L) for wear or distortion. (2) Remove and inspect inner and outer piston seal rings (Q & R) (neoprene) for deterioration, wear, and hardness. (3) Inspect seal ring groove in piston for nicks or burrs. (4) Inspect inside portion of piston hub for score

400

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL FRONT CLUTCH PISTON FRONT CLUTCH PISTON SEAL RING FRONT CLUTCH PISTON RETAINER ASSEMBLY

BALL CHECK

53x54A Fig. 95—Removal and Installation of Front Clutch Piston Assembly

marks. If light remove with crocus cloth, if heavy replace the piston (M). (5) Inspect lever retainer (K), return spring (J)f spring retainer (I), and snap ring (H) for distortion.

Front Clutch Retainer—Inspection (1) Note ball check in clutch retainer. The purpose of ball check is to relieve centrifugal oil pressure when clutch is in released position (neutral and reverse) and engine speeds are increased; otherwise, clutch may engage. Make sure ball operates freely. (2) Inspect seal ring surface in hub; if intermediate shaft seal rings have excessively worn or grooved this surface, replace the clutch piston retainer (N) assembly. (3) Remove any metal pickup on hub of retainer, and inspect seal ring groove for nicks or burrs. (4) Inspect steel clutch plate contacting surfaces for scores or brinelling. Make sure clutch driving lugs on steel plates travel free in retainer. (5) Inspect splines on rear of retainer for nicks, burrs, or brinelling. ¢6) Inspect thrust surface on rear of retainer for scratches or scoring. Make sure all clutch feed and lubricating passages are free from foreign matter.

Unit No. 3-Assembly (1) Lubricate and install inner (neoprene) seal ring (Q) on hub of clutch retainer. Make definitely s u r e

that lip of seal is facing down a n d seal is properly seated i n groove. (2) Lubricate and install outer seal ring ¢R) on clutch piston with lip of seal facing away from flange. (3) Place piston assembly (M) in clutch retainer and with a twisting motion, seat piston in bottom of retainer, as shown in Figure 95.

(4) Place lever retainer (K) in piston and install the four levers (L). Make sure l e v e r s are free a n d p r o p e r l y s e a t e d in piston slots. (5) Install clutch return spring (J) over hub of clutch retainer (N), and position spring retainer (I) and snap ring (H) on spring. (6) Using compressor, Tool C-3575, compress the clutch return spring sufficiently to seat snap ring with pliers, Tool C-3301. S p r i n g r e t a i n e r m a y r e q u i r e g u i d i n g past t h e piston r e t a i n e r h u b . Make s u r e s n a p ring is p r o p e r l y s e a t e d . (7) Remove spring compressing portion of Tool C-3575. (8) Install pressure plate (F) (smooth side up) in retainer. Install discs and plates by placing one of the driving discs (D) in the clutch retainer followed by a steel plate (E). Repeat this procedure until all driving discs and steel plates have been installed.

Checking for Proper Travel of Clutch Pressure Plate It is very important that the front clutch pressure plate has the proper amount of travel where levers are used for applying additional pressure to clutch plates. Insufficient travel may cause the clutch plates to drag. Excessive travel may allow slippage of the clutch. To check for proper travel of the clutch pressure plate, proceed as follows: (9) Install the rear clutch pressure plate (which was withheld during the assembly of unit No. 2) on top of the front clutch pack. Holding this plate firmly in position, insert a feeler gauge between the plate and top disc in the assembly. The total clearance should be from .020 to .040 inches. If the measured clearance is not within these limits, the clutch discs should be replaced with any combination of new discs, (part numbers 1636260, 1363372 or 1636373) to provide for proper clearance. (10) Remove the rear clutch pressure plate and install in its proper location in the rear clutch assembly. Install rear clutch snap ring. (11) Install the front clutch hub, cushion spring retaining plate (T) (Figure 96), and cushion spring (S) (concave side, as shown in Figure 97, toward retaining plate). (12) The front clutch cushion spring (S) must be preloaded to 500 pounds for assembly. Place front clutch and the input shaft assembly in an arbor press with the rear of the piston retainer resting on a suitable support. Press the input shaft into the clutch retainer until snap

ring (B) can be installed. If arbor press is not available use two "C" clamps placed 180° apart as described previously. (13) Remove the input shaft and front clutch assemblies from the arbor press (or remove "C" clamps) and install the input shaft thrust washer.

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401 STRAIGHT EDGE

57x336

Fig. 97â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Identification of Front Clutch Cushion Spring

57x337

Fig. 96â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Identification of Front Clutch Cushion Spring Retaining Plate

SERVOS, BANDS AND MISCELLANEOUS INSPECTION Bands All letters referred to in the inspection of these parts pertain to Figure 98. Make visual inspection of bands and lining for wear and bond to metal. If lining is worn to the point that grooves are no longer visible, band assemblies must be replaced. The lining is bonded to the band and no attempt should be made to reline them. Inspect bands for distortion or cracked ends. The reverse band is n a r r o w e r than the kickdown band. Therefore, it should be identified to prevent improper installation.

Lever Assemblies Inspect levers (J and K) for being cracked or worn and make sure they are free to turn on shaft and have side clearance when installed. Inspect lever shaft (I) for excessive wear. i

Reverse Servo Piston Assembly Inspect lever contacting surface on plug (L) for excessive wear. Remove and inspect reverse servo piston seal ring (Z) (neoprene) for deterioration and hardness. Inspect seal ring groove for nicks or burrs. Inspect servo piston return spring (O), retainer (N), and snap ring (M) for being distorted.

Kickdown Piston Assembly Inspect riveting of kickdown piston rod (T). Also inspect guide (R) contacting surface for nicks or burrs. Inspect seal ring (CO on guide for wear and make sure it turns freely in the groove. Check fit of guide (R) on piston rod. Inspect the three rings (two interlocking) on piston for wear or broken locks. Make sure they turn freely in the groove. It is not necessary to remove ring unless condition warrants. When replacing new rings, use extreme care so as not to damage the interlocking por-

tion of the ring. Inspect kickdown piston (U) for light scores and wear. Inspect kickdown piston spring (S) and rod guide snap ring (Q) for being distorted.

Accumulator Piston and Spring Inspect the two seal rings (X and Y) (one interlocking) for wear or broken locks and make sure they turn freely in the grooves. It is not necessary to remove rings unless condition warrants. When replacing new interlocking seal rings, use extreme care so not to damage interlocking portion of ring. Inspect accumulator piston (V) for nicks, burrs, and excessive wear. Inspect the accumulator spring (W) for being distorted.

Drive Sleeve Inspect the front seal ring (neoprene) for nicks, deterioration and hardness. Inspect the interlocking seal ring for wear or broken locks, and make sure it turns freely in the groove. It is not necessary to remove rings unless condition warrants. Inspect driving lugs for excessive wear and bearing surface on outer diameter for nicks, burrs, or scratches.

Front Oil Pump (1) Inspect front oil pump housing outer seal (on circumference of housing) and oil seal for deterioration and hardness. Do not remove oil seal from housing unless inspection reveals that it is necessary. (2) To remove oil seal, use a brass drift and drive seal out front of housing. (3) To replace front oil pump housing oil seal, position seal in housing, (metal portion of seal down) and use driver, Tool C-3278 to drive seal until tool bottoms on face of housing, as shown in Figure 99. (4) Inspect drive sleeve seal ring contacting surface in housing for wear and scratches. (5) Inspect steel back bronze type bushing in hub for scratches or scoring and excessive wear. (Bushing and housing are serviced as an assembly.) (6) Remove oil pump gears and inspect gear contacting surfaces for scratches, burrs, or grooving. (7) Inspect regulator body contacting surface on pump housing face for nicks or burrs.

§ m m

fi 56x649 A A—Low and Reverse Band Assembly B—Reverse Band Strut C—Reverse Band Anchor D—Kickdown Band E—Kickdown Band Strut F—K¡ckdown Band Anchor G—Kickdown and Reverse Lever Shaft Stop Plug H—Servo Lever Shaft Spacer I—Kickdown and Reverse Lever Shaft J—Low and Reverse Band Lever K—K¡ckdown Band Lever L—Reverse Servo Piston Plug M—Reverse Servo Spring Retainer Snap Ring N—Reverse Servo Piston Spring Retainer O—Reverse Servo Piston Spring P—Reverse Servo Piston

Q - Kickdown Piston Rod Guide Snap Ring R-Kickdown Piston Rod Guide S—Kickdown Piston Spring T-K¡ckdown Piston Rod U-Kickdown Servo Piston V—Accumulator Piston W—Accumulator Spring X—Accumulator Piston Ring (Large) Y—Accumulator Piston Ring (Small) Z—Reverse Servo Piston Seal Ring AA—Reverse Servo Piston Plug Snap Ring BB—Reverse Servo Piston Cushion Spring CC-K¡ckdown Piston Rod Guide Seal Ring DD—Kickdown Piston Seal Ring (Small) EE—K¡ckdown Piston Seal Ring (Intermediate) FF-K¡ckdown Piston Seal Ring (Large)

56x649A Fig. 98—Servos and Bands (Disassembled View)

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

403

TOOL

FRONT OIL PUMP HOUSING TOOL 56x650 53x28

Fig. 100â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Checking Clearance Between Front Pump Body and Gears

Fig. 99â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Installing Front Pump Housing Oil Seal

(8) Inspect housing passages and make definitely sure they are free from dirt and foreign matter. (9) Clean and install oil pump gears in housing. Replace gears, as identified when removed, with counterbore in pinion gear facing down. Using straightedge, Tool C-3335 and feeler gauge, check clearance between pump housing face and face of gears as shown in Figure 100. Clearance limits are from .001 to .0025 inch. (10) After checking pump gear clearance, lubricate pump gears with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A).

Regulator Valve Body and Valves (1) Place body and valves in pan containing a clean solvent, wash thoroughly, and dry with compressed air. (2) Inspect the reaction seal ring surface in bore for scratches, nicks, or burrs. (3) Inspect both valves for free movement in valve body; they should fall in and out of bores when both the valves and body are dry. Crocus cloth may be used to polish valves providing care is exercised not to round the sharp edge portion of the valves. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type of valve, it helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and body, thus reducing the possibilities of sticking. (4) Check all fluid passages for obstructions and inspect all mating surfaces for burrs and distortion. If regulator valve body should have a slight nick or raised portion on mating surfaces, it may be removed by using a surface plate and crocus cloth. (5) Inspect front and rear pump check valve for proper seating on both surfaces. Check metering hole for a plugged condition and be sure hole is free of

foreign matter. If necessary to remove valve, use a pair of long nose pliers. When installing check valve make definitely sure rear pump check valve (with metering hole) is positioned toward outside of regulator valve body. (6) Check regulator valve spring seat (snap ring). After the valves and regulator valve body have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected, the valves should be reinstalled in body, refer to Figure 74. Torque converter control valve has end drilled for removal and installation purposes. Place assembly on a clean surface and cover until ready for installation. (7) Inspect regulator valve and torque converter control valve springs for distortion. Check regulator valve spring sleeve and cup for burrs. Check adjusting screw and locknut in retainer, for freeness and pulled threads.

10.

ASSEMBLY OF UNITS I N TRANSMISSION CASE Torque Converter Reaction Shaft Using heat lamps, heat front of transmission case to aproximately 170 to 190 degrees F. (1) Install guide studs. Tool C-3283 in front face of reaction shaft flange. Lubricate portion of reaction shaft that presses into case with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). (2) Position torque converter reaction shaft into front of transmission case so that guide studs in shaft align with threaded holes in case. (3) Using Tool C-3531, press reaction shaft into place, as shown in Figure 75. (4) Remove the guide studs and start the three transmission case to reaction shaft bolts and washers, draw down evenly and tighten from 10 to 15 foot-pounds. (5) Coat torque converter reaction shaft seal (neo-

404

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL prene) with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A) and install on shaft. Regulator Valve Body (1) Install guide studs. Tool C-3288, a s shown in Figure 73. (2) Install regulator valve body gasket over guide studs and into position on the transmission case. (3) With seal ring (neoprene) in position on reaction shaft, install regulator valve body and valves over guide studs and into position. Hold v a l v e s i n p l a c e to prevent damage while installing valve body.

56x652

MARKS

REGULATOR VALVE BODY

Fig. 101—Installing Front Oil Pump Assembly

"N,

56x653

Fig. 102—Tightening Front Oil Pump Housing Screws

Front Oil Pump Assembly (1) With inner and outer seals lubricated and pump gears in position in housing (counterbore in pinion gear facing down as identified when removed), place oil pump housing over studs and slide into position, as shown in Figure 101. (2) Start five of the bolts (with aluminum washers) and draw housing down evenly until it is seated into transmission case. (3) Remove guide studs and install the two remaining bolts and washers, then tighten from 14 to 16 foot-pounds, as shown in Figure 102. I m p r o p e r t i g h t e n i n g of t h e s e bolts m a y c a u s e p u m p g e a r s to bind. (4) Lubricate and install front pump drive sleeve (bearing surface first), as shown in Figure 103, then engage the driving lugs of the oil pump pinion to determine if oil pump gears turn freely (main body of driving sleeve should be flush with oil pump housing when properly installed.) (Refer to Figure 104.) If gears do not turn freely, remove pump and check for foreign matter between pump gears and housing. (5) Install the torque converter control valve spring, retainer, and gasket. Tighten from 35 to 40 foot-pounds. (6) Reinstall the transmisison regulator valve spring, sleeve, cup, gasket and retainer (with adjusting screw and lock nut installed.) Tighten from 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Accumulator Piston (1) Lubricate seal rings and place accumulator piston into position. Compress outer seal ring and tap lightly into transmission case.

56x654

Fig. 103—Installing Front Oil Pump Drive Sleeve

Kickdown Piston (1) Lubricate piston seal rings and place kickdown piston assembly into position, compress outer ring, and start assembly into case. With piston properly centered so not to damage rings, tap lightly and bottom piston into case. (2) Place kickdown piston rod assembly in piston and slide piston spring over kickdown piston rod. (3) Install Tool C-3529 or C-3289 (modified) for kickdown piston installation. (4) Place the kickdown piston rod guide over spring

405

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

TOOL

SEAL RING

DRIVE SLEEVE

OW-REVERSE SERVO SPRING RETAINER DRIVE SLEEVE

Fig. 106—Compressing Low and Reverse Servo Piston Spring and Retainer

(7) Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove.

57x148

F¡g. 104—Front Pump Drive Sleeve Installation. Incorrect Installation (Top View); Correct Installation (Bottom View)

and compress spring until piston rod enters piston rod guide as shown in Figure 105. (5) Using extreme care, compress the kickdown piston spring to the point that piston rod guide seal ring slightly binds on case. Then work seal ring into position by gradually compressing spring. (6) Install snap ring and make sure it is properly seated, as shown in Figure 67.

Low-Reverse Servo Piston (1) Lubricate the low-reverse servo piston seal and install on piston (lip of seal facing end of piston). (2) Install cushion spring and plug into servo piston and secure with snap ring. (Make sure snap ring seats properly.) (3) Install piston assembly into transmission case. (4) Place low-reverse servo piston spring over piston and position spring retainer over spring. (5) Install Tool C-3529 or C-3489 (modified) for lowreverse servo piston installation. (6) Compress spring (Figure 106) sufficiently to install snap ring. Spring retainer may require guiding into

case. Make sure snap ring seats properly. (7) Loosen compressing portion of tool and remove from transmission case. Kickdown Band (1) Install the kickdown band assembly by rotating band ends over center support in transmission case, as

TOOL

shown in Figure 63. Use extreme care w h e n installing bands so not to d a m a g e lining on e d g e s of transmission case. (2) Install anchor on kickdown band adjusting screw. KICKDOWN¾ ISTON ROD:> GUIDE KICKDOWN PISTON SPRING

56x625 105—Removal and Installation of K¡ckdown Piston Rod Guide and Spring

Low-Reverse Band (1) Install anchor on reverse band adjusting screw. (2) Install band by rotating band ends through rear opening in transmission case, as shown in Figure 61. Low-Reverse and Kickdown Band Lever Assemblies and Struts (1) Place levers in position in case and slide shaft through levers from rear of transmission case, as shown in Figure 64. Remove guide stud, Tool C-3288 from threaded end of shaft and install shaft lever spacer (flat) and plug. Tighten plug from 30 to 35 foot-pounds.

406

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

UNIT NO. 2 UNIT NO. ì

UNIT NO. 3

5óx63O

Fig. 107—Power Train Units (3) Position kickdown band over anchor and compress band in sufficiently to install kickdown band strut, as shown in Figure 62. Then place low-reverse band into position on anchor and compress band end; and with the aid of a screwdriver, install strut.

11.

POWER TRAIN UNITS (FIGURE 107)— INSTALLATION

Unit No. 3-(Front Clutch and Input Shaft Assemblies)—Installation If when transmission was disassembled, the end clearance was found to be incorrect, correction can be made at this time by selection of proper input shaft thrust washer. To accomplish this, use a micrometer and measure the thickness of the thrust washer which was removed. Then, select a thicker or thinner washer to give proper clearance. Thrust washers are available in the following three thicknesses: Part No.

Thickness

Color

1638669 .115" to .117" Natural 1638670 .097" to .099" Black 1638671 .078" to .080" Red (1) With input shaft thrust washer in position and input shaft seal rings lubricated, start unit through rear of transmission case as shown in Figure 60. IDENTIFIED LOCATING HOLE IN INTERMEDIATE SUPPORT

,*THREADED LOCATING HOLE,

Fig. 108—Installing Unit No. 2

(2) By supporting and keeping unit centered as much as possible, guide through bands and reaction shaft into position.

Unit No 2-(Sun Gear, Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier, Overrunning Clutch, and Rear Clutch Assemblies) (1) Start unit through rear of transmission case. Align identified locating hole in intermediate support with threaded locating hole inside of transmission case, as shown in Figure 108. By supporting and keeping unit centered as much as possible, guide through bands until it contacts the hub on the front clutch. (2) While pushing in on assembly, rock sun gear to engage clutch plates of rear clutch on hub of front clutch. While rocking sun g e a r , m a k e sure unit d o e s not bind on b a n d s or in i n t e r m e d i a t e support. Do not u s e e x c e s s i v e force w h e n i n s t a l l i n g this unit so a s to p r e v e n t d a m a g e to clutch discs in r e a r clutch. A drift m a y b e u s e d to assist i n a l i g n m e n t of i n t e r m e d i a t e support locating holes. (3) Install the three intermediate support locating bolts, lockwashers, and tighten from 25 to 30 footpounds. Use extreme care when installing the locating bolt inside of case to prevent loss of lockwasher, as shown in Figure 58. (4) Check input shaft and sun gear for free rotation.

Unit No. 1-(Output Shaft, Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier, and Intermediate Shaft Assemblies) (1) Be sure reverse sun gear thrust washer (roller type) is in position in planet pinion carrier assembly. Lubricate seal rings and bearing surface on intermediate shaft with Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type A). (2) Install unit by placing intermediate shaft in sun gear, as shown in Figure 57. Keeping unit centered a s much as possible and slowly turning output shaft, slide into position (large seal ring on output shaft flush with rear of transmission case). Use e x t r e m e c a r e w h e n installing to prevent damage to seal rings on intermediate shaft.

407

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFUTE 12.

ASSEMBLING BALANCE OF TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS (INCLUDING ADJUSTMENTS) Output Shaft Support (1) With guide studs Tool C-3283 installed in rear of transmission case, place output shaft support gasket over guide studs and into position on rear of case. (2) Lubricate output shaft seal rings. Install support over shaft and guide studs, and position against transmission case, a s shown in Figure 56. U s e c a r e w h e n installing support so not to d a m a g e ring s e a l i n g surfaces. (3) Install the one (short) output shaft support to transmission case bolt and lockwashers, and tighten finger tight. Rear Oil Pump and Governor Assemblies (1) Place rear oil pump pinion ball in ball pocket in output shaft. (2) Lubricate rear oil pump drive pinion. Place over output shaft and slide into position aligning key way in pinion with ball in shaft as shown in Figure 55. P i n i o n w a s marked w h e n removed in disassembly. M a k e s u r e it i s i n s t a l l e d c o r r e c t l y . (3) Lubricate rear oil pump gear and position in pump housing. Make sure gear is installed correctly; check marking. (4) Slide rear oil pump and governor assemblies over output shaft and into position against support, a s shown in Figure 54. T h e r e a r e t w o e x t r a h o l e s i n h o u s i n g w h i c h a r e u s e d for v e n t s . M a k e defin i t e l y s u r e that n o attempt i s m a d e to install bolts in t h e s e h o l e s . Check e a c h t h r e a d e d h o l e b e f o r e i n s t a l l i n g bolts. (5) Install the five rear oil pump housing to output shaft support bolts and washers. D i s h e d t y p e w a s h ers are used to prevent cutting or chipping of soft metals and should be installed on bolts with dished portion facing away from bolt h e a d . Draw down evenly, then tighten from 10 to 12 foot-pounds. After bolts have been properly tightened, turn output shaft to make sure pump gears are free to rotate. If not, disassemble pump to determine cause. Governor Weights and Valve Assembly (1) Align locating hole in output shaft to locating bolt hole in governor support and install locating bolt, tighten from 5 to 7 foot-pounds. H o l e s c a n b e e a s i l y a l i g n e d b y turning output shaft a n d h o l d i n g governor body. (2) If governor body has been removed and reinstalled, tighten the four governor body bolts from 6 to 8 foot-pounds. (3) Dry governor weight assembly and valve with compressed air, but do not lubricate when assembling.

PRIMARY (OUTER) WEIGHT

INTERMEDIATE WEIGHT

SPRING

SECONDARY (INNER) WEIGHT

SNAP RING 56x26

Fig. 109â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Governor Weight Assembly (Disassembled View) (Typical)

(4) Place governor weight assembly (Figure 109) with secondary weight snap ring facing out, into governor body (Figure 53). Using pliers. Tool C-3229, install snap ring. Make sure snap ring seats properly, as shown in Figure 52. (5) With the governor valve (small end up) on governor valve shaft, slide shaft into governor body, as shown in Figure 51 through the output shaft and governor weight assembly; at the same time position valve into body. (6) Install the governor valve shaft snap ring (from weight assembly end.) Make sure it is properly locked to shaft, as shown in Figure 50. After s n a p r i n g installation, apply sufficient pressure to both ends of the valve shaft to force snap rings to outer portion of snap ring grooves. (See Figure 110). (7) Check operation of governor weight assembly and valve by turning output shaft. Both should fall freely in governor body. Transmission Extension (1) Install new transmission extension gasket over guide studs and into position against output shaft support. Do not use sealing material on gasket. (2) Place extension over output shaft and guide studs and into position against support. P r o p e l l e r shaft SNAP RINGS

57x37

. i ioâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Positioning Governor Valve Shaft Snap Rings in Grooves

408

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PIN

OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING OIL SEAL

BRAKE ANCHOR WASHER BRAKE ANCHOR SHOE GUIDE

HAND BRAKE ASSY.

BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY

BRAKE SUPPORT

CABLE GUIDE CLAMP BRACKET ASSEMBLY

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SLEEVE

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING SCREW

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTING NUT

Fig. I l l — I n t e r n a l Expanding Handbrake (Drum Removed)

flange and drum assembly can be used if necessary to draw extension bearing on output shaft. Do not use hammer. (3) Start the seven transmission extension to case bolts and lockwashers, then draw down evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds. After these bolts have been properly torqued, turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. (5) Install speedometer drive pinion and sleeve assembly in transmission extension, as shown in Figure 48 and tighten from 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Hand Brake (1) Make sure the brake support spacer (neoprene) is in position on back of brake support and spacer sleeve is in center of support. (2) Slide hand brake assembly (intact) over rear of extension. Make sure spacer sleeve remains in center of support. (3) Install brake support grease shield on extension housing. Indent in shield is for correct positioni n g on extension. Also shield must b e located on extension far e n o u g h to permit installation of spring. (4) Install the brake support grease shield spring (opening in spring toward adjusting sleeve). Make sure spring is properly seated in groove. (5) Slide the brake shoe return spring behind the grease shield spring and hook into position, as shown in Figure 111. (6) Reinstall pin through brake anchor and extension. (7) Install propeller shaft flange and drum assembly. Omit this operation if flange and drum assembly were used to force bearing on output shaft. (8) Install the propeller shaft flange washer and nut. Tighten to 175 foot-pounds. Use wrench, Tool C-3281 to hold brake drum and flange assembly while tightening nut. Rechecking Front Clutch End Clearance Prior to installing the valve bodies and transfer plate

UNIT No. 1 EXTENSION OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT

Fig. 112—Removal of Output Shaft Support, Extension, Handbrake Assembly and Unit No. 1 as an Assembly

assembly, recheck front clutch end clearance using dial indicator, Tool C-3339, as shown in Figure 45. To make this check, pry front clutch forward by carefully inserting screwdriver between the front and rear clutch. Remove screwdriver and with dial indicator, point contacting edge of front clutch retainer set dial indicator to zero. Then pry front clutch assembly rearward against rear clutch, remove screwdriver, and take indicator reading. This clearance should be from .020" to .050". If the clearance is not within these limits, then transmission will have to be partially disassembled in the following manner to allow an input shaft thrust washer of proper thickness to be installed. Remove the seven bolts and lockwashers from the transmission extension and install guide studs, Tool C-3283. Then, remove the one output shaft support to transmission case bolt and washer, and remove the hand brake assembly, extension, output shaft support, and Unit No. 1 as one assembly, as shown in Figure 112. Support assemblies as much as possible when removing to prevent damaging seal rings on intermediate shaft. Refer to "Power Train Units—Removal," Unit Ho. 2, and perform operations 2 and 3; Unit No. 3, and perform operation 1 · Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the input shaft thrust washer and select a washer to give correct clearance. Thrust washers are available in the following three thicknesses: Part No.

Thickness

Color

.115" to .117" Natural Red .097" to .099" .078" to .080" Black Install power train units. Refer to "Power Train Units —Installation"; Unit No. 3, and perform operations 1 1638669 1638670 1638671

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFLITE TOOL

and 2; Unit No. 2, and perform operations 1 through 4. Install hand brake assembly, extension, output shaft support, and Unit No. 1 in one assembly as removed, following the procedure as described in the installation of Unit No. 1. With assembly in position in transmission case, install the one support to case bolt and lockwasher finger tight. Remove the guide studs and install the seven extension to case bolts and lockwashers, draw down evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds. Tighten the one support to case bolt from 25 to 30 footpounds. After bolts have been properly torqued, turn output shaft to make sure it turns freely. Recheck front clutch and clearance. Band Adjustment Since both band assemblies have been removed, it is very important that the hand brake drum is turned in a clockwise and counterclockwise direction to center bands on retainers prior to making band adjustments. Low-Reverse (Rear) Band (1) Using wrench, Tool C-3380 and with lock nut loose, tighten low-reverse band adjusting screw from 70 to 75 inch-pounds, as shown in Figure 113. Refer to "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests," Paragraph 1. (2) Using a colored pencil, identify adjusting screw, location in relation to transmission case. Back adjusting screw out 2% turns. Holding adjusting screw stationary, tighten lock nut from 35 to 40 foot-pounds.

409

56x657

Fig. 113—Adjusting Low-Reverse Band

D i s h e d t y p e w a s h e r s a r e u s e d to p r e v e n t cutting or c h i p p i n g of soft m e t a l s a n d s h o u l d b e i n s t a l l e d on bolts with d i s h e d portion f a c i n g a w a y from h e a d . (3) Install accumulator spring through transfer plate and position in piston. (4) Install accumulator cover, as shown in Figure 43, (three bolts, with washers) and draw down evenly. (5) Place oil strainer assembly in position on transfer plate assembly. (6) Install the four bolts and washers, draw down evenly, and tighten strainer assembly and accumulator cover bolts from 14 to 16 foot-pounds. (7) Install neutral starting switch and visually check the manual valve lever contact with switch.

Kickdown (Front) Band (1) Using wrench, Tool C-3380 (and with lock nut loose), tighten kickdown band adjusting screw from 70 to 75 inch-pounds. Refer to "Maintenance, Adjustments and Tests/' Paragraph 1. (2) Using a colored pencil, identify location of adjusting screw in relation to transmission case, then back adjusting screw out 3½ turns. While holding adjusting screw stationary, tighten lock nut from 35 to 40 footpounds. Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate AssemblyInstallation If valve bodies and transfer plate assemblies are not being reconditioned at this time proceed as follows: (1) Check mating surfaces of valve body assembly for cleanliness. Then place the valve bodies and transfer plate assembly into position on transmission case, as shown in Figure 44. (2) Install the three transfer plate bolts and washers, (two in center, and one in front). Draw down evenly and tighten from 14 to 16 foot-pounds.

Oil

Pan—Installation

(1) Using a new oil pan gasket, place oil pan in position on transmission case. Install the oil pan bolts and washer assemblies; draw down evenly, and tighten from 10 to 12 foot-pounds. (2) Position lever so there is 7/32 inch clearance (without gasket) between bottom of lever and transmission case. Tighten locking screw securely. A 7 / 3 2 i n c h drill c a n b e u s e d for obtaining p r o p e r clearance. (See Figure 32). (3) Place control cable adaptor (with spring lock in position in lever and install pin. (4) Place manual valve control lever in reverse position and install gasket, control cable housing, and three bolts and washers. Draw down evenly and tighten from 14 to 16 footpounds. (5) Install felt washer, flat washer, and throttle valve lever assembly over shaft and tighten clamping bolt. (6) Remove transmission from stand. Tool C-3280 and install in vehicle as outlined under "Removal and Installation of Transmission," Paragraph 5.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

410

RECONDITIONING OF VALVE BODY A N D TRANSFER PLATE ASSEMBLIES 13. REMOVING THE VALVE BODIES Lower Valve Body If valve bodies and transfer plate are being serviced with transmission in vehicle refer to "Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Removal." Paragraph 9. (1) Place the valve bodies and transfer plate assembly in stand. Tool C-3528. N e v e r clomp a n y portion of a n y v a l v e body assembly in a vise or use force w h e n removing or installing v a l v e s a n d plugs. (2) Remove the two valve body bolts (long) from retainer plate located between front and rear valve bodies, as shown in Figure 114 and remove plate. (3) Invert valve bodies and transfer plate and remove the two lower valve body bolts and lockwashers.

(4) Remove lower valve body and plate from transfer plate, as shown in Figure 115. Use extreme c a r e to prevent loss of governor compensator valve plug retaining pin. Rear Valve Body (1) Remove the two transfer plate to rear valve body bolts and lockwashers, and remove valve body from transfer plate assembly, as shown in Figure 116. Remove t h e servo pressure bleed v a l v e to prevent loss. (2) Invert valve bodies and transfer plate assembly and replace on stand Tool C-3528.

SERVO PRESSURE BLEED VALVE REAR VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY

VALVE BODY RETAINER PLATE A N D SCREWS

FRONT VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY

SCREWS

VALVE BODY PLATE (UPPER)

VALVE BODY PLATE (LOWER)

SCREW SCREW

LOWER VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY

5b*Jb7t>k Fig. 114â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate (Separated)

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFLITE

411

LOWER VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY LOWER VALVE BODY PLATE

SERVO PRESSURE BLEED VALVE FRONT VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY REAR VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY

REAR VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY

Fig. 116—Removal and Installation of Rear Valve Body Assembly THROTTLE VALVE. iSTOP SCREW,

Fig. 115—Removal and Installation of Lower Valve Body Assembly and Plate

FRONT VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY

Front Valve Body (1) Remove the two front valve body to transfer plate bolts and lockwashers and separate front valve body from transfer plate assembly, as shown in Figure 117. Do not disturb throttle valve stop screw setting. Remove upper valve body plate from transfer plate. CLEANING AND INSPECTIONGENERAL After disassembly (and each part has been thoroughly cleaned and inspected) place each part on clean paper until ready for reassembly. (1) Place all parts in a clean solvent, wash thoroughly, and dry with compressed air. Make definitely sure all passages are free from obstructions. When inspecting, also check for porous castings. (2) Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs, nicks and grooves. Small ones may be removed with crocus cloth; otherwise, damaged parts must be replaced. (3) Using straight edge, Tool C-3335, check all mating surfaces for distortion. (4) Using a pen light, inspect bores in valve body for score marks, pits, and irregularities. (5) Inspect all springs for distortion and collapsed coils. (6) Inspect all valves and plugs for burrs, nicks, and scores. Small ones may be removed with crocus cloth providing extreme care is used not to round off the sharp edge portion of the valve. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type valve. The sharp edge helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valves and body, thus reducing the possibilities of sticking. (7) Check valves and plugs for free operation in bores; they must fall freely in bores when the valves, plugs and bores are clean and dry.

LOCKNUT

VALVE BODY PLATE (UPPER)

TRANSFER PLATE

14.

REPAIR STAND (TOOL)

56x677

Fig. 117—Removal and Installation of Front Valve Body Assembly

Valve Body Plates (Upper and Lower) and Transfer Plate (1) Inspect valve body plates (upper and lower) for nicks, scratches, or burrs; and make sure metering holes are open. (2) Visually inspect transfer plate for porosity. (3) Inspect machined surface for nicks or burrs. (4) Inspect threaded holes for pulled threads. 15.

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

Lower Valve Body—Disassembly Refer to Figure 118 and disassemble as follows: (1) Remove governor compensator valve plug retaining pin (G), retainer (H) and compensator plug (I). (2) Remove the three bolts from governor compensator cover (B) (large). (3) Using care to prevent loss of the two check valve balls (D) and seats (C), remove cover. (4) Invert valve body and remove governor compensator valve (E) and valve spring (P).

412

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

56x674A Fig. 118—Lower Valve Body (Disassembled View) A—Governor Compensator Valve Cover Screws and Lockwashers B—Governor Compensator Valve Cover C—Lower Valve Bod/ Check Valve Ball Seats D-Lower Valve Body Check Valve Balls E—Governor Compensator Valve F—Lower Valve Body G—Governor Compensator Valve Plug Retainer P¡n H—Governor Compensator Valve Plug Retainer

I—Governor Compensator Valve Plug J—Throttle Compensator Valve Cover Screws and Lockwasher K—Throttle Compensator Valve Cover L—Lower Valve Body Check Valve Ball Seat M-Lower Valve Body Check Valve Ball N—Throttle Compensator Valve Spring O—Throttle Compensator Valve P—Governor Compensator Valve Spring

(5) While holding throttle compensator valve cover (K) in place (spring loaded), remove the three bolts and lockwashers (J). Use c a r e w h e n r e m o v i n g c o v e r to p r e v e n t loss of c h e c k v a l v e ball (M) a n d s e a t (L). (6) Remove throttle compensator valve spring (N) and valve (O).

(1) Place valve body in an upright position and install throttle compensator valve (Ó) and spring (N). Make sure spring is properly seated in valve. (2) Place check ball (M) and ball seat (L) in position in valve body (F). (3) Place throttle compensator valve cover (K) in position over spring and body, and install the three bolts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten.

Lower Valve Body—Additional Inspection (1) Inspect check ball contacting surface in valve seats and valve body for nicks or burrs. (2) Inspect covers for flatness and porosity. Lower Valve Body—Assembly Refer to Figure 118 and assemble as follows:

(4) Place governor compensator valve spring (P) on valve (E) then install governor compensator valve into valve body (small end first). (5) Place the two check valve balls (D) and seats (C) in position in valve body; and install governor com-

56x682A

F¡g. 119—Rear Valve Body (Disassembled View) A—Rear Valve Body Kickdown Plug Cover Screws and Lockwashers B—Rear Valve Body Kickdown Plug Cover C - l - 2 Shift Valve Kickdown Plug D-2-3 Shift Valve K¡ckdown Plug E—3-1 Relay Valve Spring F—3-1 Relay Valve G—1-2 Shift Valve Spring H - l - 2 Shift Valve 1-2-3 Shift Valve Spring J-2-3 Shift Valve

K—Rear Valve Body Governor Plug Cover Screws and Lockwashers L—Rear Valve Body Governor Plug Cover M-Check Valve Ball Seat N—Check Valve Ball O—1-2 Shift Valve Governor Plug P-2-3 Shift Valve Governor Plug Q—Rear Valve Body R—Rear Valve Body Plate Screws and Lockwashers S-Rear Valve Body Plate T—Servo Pressure Bleed Valve

TRANSMISSION -TORQUEFUTE pensator valve cover (B), then bolts, and lockwashers (A). Draw down evenly and tighten. (6) Install governor compensator valve plug (I) (small end first) in valve body. (7) Install governor compensator valve plug retainer (H) and pin (G). Use care when handling valve body to prevent loss of retainer pin.

REAR VALVE BODY

413

SCALE

1-2 SHIFT VALVE SPRING

Rear Valve Body—Disassembly Refer to Figure 119 and disassemble rear valve body as follows: (1) Keeping thumb pressure against the kickdown plug cover (B) (spring loaded) remove the three bolts and lockwashers. U s e c a u t i o n w h e n r e m o v i n g c o v e r to p r e v e n t loss of t h e 3-1 r e l a y v a l v e s p r i n g (E) 1-2 shift v a l v e k i c k d o w n p l u g (C) a n d 2 - 3 shift v a l v e k i c k d o w n p l u g (D). (2) Remove the 1-2 shift valve spring (G) and valve (H). (3) Remove the 3-1 relay valve (F). (4) Remove the 2-3 shift valve spring (I) and valve

(J). (5) Remove the three governor plug cover bolts and lockwashers (K). U s e c a u t i o n w h e n r e m o v i n g c o v e r (L) to p r e v e n t loss of c h e c k v a l v e b a l l s e a t (M) a n d b a l l (N). (6) Remove the 1-2 shift valve governor plug (O) from valve body. (7) Remove the 2-3 shift valve governor plug (P) from valve body. (8) Rear valve body plate (S) can be removed for cleaning purposes by removing the four bolts and lockwashers.

Rear Valve Body—Assembly (1) With valve body (Q) setting in an upright position, install the 1-2 shift valve (H) (small end first) into valve body. (2) Place the 2-3 shift valve (J) (spring pilot facing out) into position in valve body. (3) Position the 1-2 and 2-3 shaft valve springs (G & I) in valves. (4) Place the 2-3 shift valve kickdown plug (D) (identified by larger pilot) over 2-3 shift valve spring, (I). Compress spring sufficiently to seat plug in valve body and secure by placing a thin piece of metal (6" scale) behind plug, as shown in Figure 120. (5) Install the 3-1 relay valve (F) (larger end first) into valve body and place spring (E) on pilot. (6) Place the 1-2 shift valve kickdown plug (C) over the 1-2 shift valve spring (G). (7) Place kickdown plug cover over 3-1 relay valve spring and 1-2 kickdown plug. Compress springs and guide the 1-2 kickdown plug into valve body. Install the

2-3 SHIFT VALVE KICKDOWN; PLUG 3-1 RELAY VALVE

56x681

Fig. 120—Using Scale to Hold 2¯3 Shift Valve Kickdown Plug In Body During Assembly

three cover bolts and lockwashers and draw down evenly and tighten. Remove piece of metal or 6" scale. (8) Install rear valve body plate (S) (if removed). (9) Place the 1-2 shift valve governor plug (O) (small end first) in position in valve body. (10) Place the 2-3 shift valve governor plug (P) (small end first) in position in valve body. (11) Install check valve ball (N) and seat (M). (12) Place governor plug cover (L) in position on valve body and install the three bolts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten.

Front Valve Body—Disassembly All letters referred to in the disassembly of the front valve body pertain to Figure 121. D o not disturb throttle v a l v e stop s c r e w setting w h e n disass e m b l i n g v a l v e body. This is a factory setting; it c a n n o t b e r e s e t with field e q u i p m e n t . (1) Keeping thumb pressure against shuttle valve cover (B) (spring loaded) remove the four bolts and lockwashers. Use caution when removing cover to prevent loss of front check valve ball seat (C) and ball (D). (2) While holding thumb over throttle valve, invert valve body and remove shuttle valve plug, spring and valve, as shown in Figure 122. (3) Remove throttle valve, spring kickdown valve, and detent plug, as shown in Figure 123. It is unnecessary to remove detent plug retaining bolt and lockwasher. (4) Remove cotter pin from valve body in outer end of reverse blocker valve. (5) Remove reverse blocker valve plug (N), blocker valve (O), and spring (P). Normally it isn't necessary to remove the throttle valve lever shaft (R) manual valve lever assembly (S) or manual valve (V). However, if condition warrants (such as damage) proceed as follows:

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

414

56x673A

Fig. 121—Front Valve Body (Disassembled View) A—Shuttle Valve Cover Screws and Lockwashers B—Shuttle Valve Cover C-Fron† Check Valve Ball Seat D-Fron† Check Valve Ball E-Shuttle Valve Plug F-Shuttle Valve Spring G—Shuttle Valve H-Throttle Valve I—Throttle Valve Spring J-K¡ckdown Valve K-K¡ckdown Detent Plug

(6) Support throttle lever shaft on block of wood. Using a small punch and hammer remove the throttle valve lever shaft pin, as shown in Figure 124. A rubber band may be used to hold manual lever in place while removing pin. Remove any burs from the throttle valve and manual valve lever shafts and slide them from the valve body. (7) Slide throttle valve lever shaft (R) out of manual lever assembly (S). MANUAL VALVE

L—Front Valve Body M—Reverse Blocker Valve Pin N—Reverse Blocker Valve Plug O—Reverse Blocker Valve P—Reverse Blocker Valve Spring Q—Throttle Valve Lever Shaft Pin R—Throttle Valve Lever Shaft S—Manual Valve Lever Assembly T—Manual Valve Lever Detent Ball U—Manual Valve Detent Ball Spring V-Manual Valve

(8) Using caution to prevent loss of detent ball (T) and spring (U)f remove manual valve lever assembly (S) from valve body. (9) Using a twisting motion, remove manual valve (Y). Ffànt Valve Body—Additional Inspection (1) Inspect the manual valve detent ball (T) and make sure it slides freely into valve body. (2) Inspect the staking of manual lever and throttle cam to their respective shafts. (3) Inspect the kickdown valve detent plug to make sure it slides freely on valve.

KICKDOWN DETENT PLUG

FRONT VALVE BODY ASSY. `SHUTTLE VALVE ^SHUTTLE VALVE SPRING `SHUTTLE VALVE PLUG

5ÓXÓÓ7A

Fig. 122—Removal and Installation of Shuttle Valve, Plug, Spring and Valve

KICKDOWN VALVE THROTTLE VALVE SPRING THROTTLE VALVE

REVERSE BIOCKER VALVE PIN 56x668

Fig. 123—Removal and Installation of Throttle Valve, Spring, Kickdown Valve and Detent Plug

TRANSMISSION-TORQUEFLITE

MANUAL VALVE LEVER ASSY

THROTTLE VALVE LEVER SHAFT

415

kickdown valve (J) and position kickdown valve (detent plug first) into valve body. (10) Install throttle valve spring (I) and throttle valve (H) into valve body. (11) Install shuttle valve (G) and spring (F) in the valve body. (12) Install plug (E) into position in valve body. (13) Place front check valve ball (D) and seat (C) in position in valve body. (14) Place shuttle valve cover (B) in position on valve body and install the four bolts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly.

16. INSTALLING THE VALVE BODIES Valve Body Plate (Upper)

56x669

F¡g. 124—Removal and Installation of Throttle Valve Lever Shaft Pin (Typical View)

(4) Inspect check valve ball seat in valve body (faulty casting).

(1) Place valve body transfer plate in an upright position on fixture, Tool C-3528. (2) Place steel plate (upper) over pilots on Tool C-3538, and into position on transfer plate.

Front Valve Body (1) Position front valve body on steel plate (upper) as shown in Figure 117 and install two bolts and lockwashers in outer end of valve and draw down finger tight.

Front Valve Body—Assembly

Rear Valve Body

(1) Place valve body on a piece of clean paper in an upright position. (2) Using a twisting motion, install manual valve (V) until it bottoms on paper. (3) Place manual valve lever detent ball spring (U) and ball (T) in position in valve body. (4) While compressing detent ball in position with right index finger, install manual valve control lever by sliding over detent ball placing shaft of manual valve control lever in bore of valve body. This a s s e m b l y m a y b e h e l d in position by the u s e of a r u b b e r band. (5) While holding manual lever assembly in position against valve body, install throttle valve lever assembly through manual valve lever assembly, with flat portion on end of shaft facing away from valve body (to allow maximum travel of lever). (6) While holding levers in position in valve body with rubber band, support throttle lever shaft on wooden block. Install shaft pin using a small punch and hammer, as shown in Figure 124. Remove rubber band. (7) With reverse blocker valve spring in position in valve (O) and with slots in valve aligned with pin, install reverse blocker valve in valve body. (8) Install reverse blocker valve plug (N) and compress spring sufficiently to install pin (M). Lock pin in position. (9) Check kickdown detent plug stop screw for being tight. Install detent plug (larger inner diameter first) on

(1) Invert transfer plate assembly and replace on fixture, Tool C-3528. (2) With servo pressure bleed valve in place, hold rear valve body up into position against steel plate as shown in Figure 116; and install the two outer bolts (short) with lockwashers through the transfer plate and into lower valve body. Draw up finger tight.

Lower Valve Body (1) To prevent loss of governor compensator valve retainer pin, poistion steel plate (lower) on lower valve body. (2) Place valve body and steel plate into position on transfer plate. Install the two bolts (intermediate length) and lockwashers, and as shown in Figure 114. Tighten the two lower valve body and two rear valve body bolts from 50 to 60 inch-pounds. VALVE BODY RETAINER PLATE

56x671A

Fig. 125—Installation of Valve Body Retainer Plate

416

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL TRANSFER PLATE ASSY. TOOL

"¾>``·

FRONT VALVE BODY ASSY. VALVE BODY RETAINER PLATE REAR VALVE BODY ASSY.

56x672 M A N U A L VALVE

Fig. 126—Tightening Valve Body Screws

(3) Invert valve bodies and transfer plate and replace on fixture Tool C-3528. (4) Install valve bodies retainer plate and two bolts (long) with lockwashers, (refer to Figure 125), and tighten the two retainer plate bolts and two front valve body bolts from 50 to 60 inch-pounds, as shown in Figure 126. O v e r t i g h t e n i n g will c a u s e distortion to v a l v e b o d y a n d result in sticky v a l v e s . (5) Check manual valve operation to make sure it operates freely, as shown in Figure 127.

LOWER VALVE BODY ASSY. 56xóó6A

Fig. 127—Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Assembly (Bottom View)

(6) Place transfer plate and valve bodies assembly in transmission case (Refer to Valve Bodies and Transfer Plate Installation," Paragraph 6, then refer to "Oil Pan Installation," Paragraph 6.) (7) Remove stand, C-3280 (if transmission is on bench). (8) Install transmission as outlined under "Removal and Installation of Transmission," Paragraph 5, if transmission is being serviced at the bench.

TORQUE CONVERTER CONTENTS Correcting Torque Converter Housing Bore and Face Runout. Servicing Torque Converter ,

Par.

Page

2 1

419 416

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES 1. SERVICING THE TORQUE CONVERTER Torque converter housing bore a n d face alignment, a s well a s converter hub runout, should be checked anytime that a PowerFlite or TorqueFlite transmission is removed to correct l e a k a g e at the front pump oil seal or front pump f a i l u r e — a l s o w h e n e v e r a n e n g i n e replacement is m a d e . It is not necessary to remove torque converter housing to check hub run-out. Removal (1) Remove transmission. (2) Remove the torque converter housing to adapter screws and lockwashers. (3) Remove torque converter housing. If torque converter is being removed because of excessive runout damage, check runout by using a dial indicator on hub and mark the highest point of runout on both converter and crankshaft flange. The reason for this is so

it may be determined later if runout was caused by the converter or crankshaft, after crankshaft has been checked in the same manner. (4) Using wrench. Tool C-589 or C-811, remove the eight torque converter stud nuts and lockwashers from crankshaft flange, as shown in Figure 1. (5) Remove torque converter from crankshaft. Check crankshaft flange runout (maximum .002 inch.) Correcting Hub Runout Permissible torque converter hub runout, when mounted on the crankshaft, is .004 inch total indicator reading. The following method is provided for bringing the converter hub within this tolerance: (1) If new torque converter is being installed, make sure all visible foreign matter such as raised metal around studs, burrs, chips, etc., have been removed from the converter and crankshaft drive flanges. (2) Check crankshaft flange runout (maximum .002 inch T.I.R.).

TORQUE CONVERTER

417

-»'`¾T

TOOL C-811 OR TOOL C-589

F¡g. 1—Removing or Installing Torque Converter Mounting Stud Nuts

154x1131 (3) Check the torque converter runout by mounting a dial indicator to the adapter plate or some other unit which is mounted rigidly to the engine block, as shown in Figure 2. (4) Rotate the converter 360 degrees and determine the converter hub O. D. runout. If this exceeds .004 inch total indicator reading, then correct by using heat in the

following manner: Before using heat, make definitely sure the torque converter has been drained. Mark the position of the hub low spot as accurately as possible on the impeller shell. Rotate the converter so that this mark is directly down. Remove the dust shield from the front of the adapter plate. Using a piece of chalk, mark the front cover radius directly opposite the hub low spot previously marked on the impeller shell. The subsequent heating operation can now be done through the opening in the adapter plate, as shown in Figure 3. The size of the spot to be heated is governed by the magnitude of hub runout and is usually about ½ inch diameter for .008 inch total indicator reading. Using an acetylene torch containing a No. 3 tip, and set to maximum heat, apply it to the selected spot until it becomes a dull red. Rapid heating of a local area is essential and if the torch is adjusted properly, the spot will become red within a few seconds. If sparks are noted, it is an indication that torch is too close and metal is starting to burn; move back slightly. Care should be taken to remove the torch the instant the selected spot becomes a dull red, to avoid over correction or damage to the unit. The area is then quenched (as rapidly as possible) with cold water (hose or wet rags). It is suggested this be done by starting around the heated area and working in toward the spot. This prevents the heat from spreading.

F¡g. 2—Checking Torque Converter Runout (Housing Removed To Show Operation)

54x114

Fig. 3—Correcting Torque Converter with Heat

The hub runout should not be rechecked until the converter has returned to a uniform room temperature. If the converter hub runout exceeds .016 inch total indicator reading, remove the converter and recheck the drive flanges for raised metal chips, etc. Check crankshaft flange runout (maximum .002 inch). If the hub runout remains in excess of .016 inch total indicator reading, install a new converter. Replacing Starter Ring Gear On Torque Converter

Removal (1) Support the torque converter assembly in a vise

418

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

STAKI LUGS

53x93A

Fig. 4—Removal of Staking Lugs from Torque Converter and with a file carefully remove the staking lugs which retain the ring gear to the torque converter, as shown in Figure 4. Be careful to avoid distortion when supporting torque converter in the vise. (2) Place torque converter on blocks of wood (for support) while removing gear. Using a blunt chisel, or drift, tap around ring gear until it comes off torque converter. (Refer to Figure 5.) Installation Remove burrs or raised spots (left on the gear contact surface of the torque converter) with a file. Do not remove more metal from the torque converter than is required to remove burrs and rough surfaces. Any of the following methods may be used to heat the starter ring gear for installation on converter: Oven—Use Oven C-794 and set temperature at 150 degrees F. Allow ring gear to remain in oven for approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Boiling Water—Place ring gear in a shallow container, add water, and heat for approximately eight minutes after water has come to a boil.

BRASS DRIFT

53x91 A

Fig. 5—Removing Starter Ring Gear

Steam—Place ring gear on a flat surface and direct the steam flow around the gear for approximately two minutes. Flame—Place ring gear squarely on a flat surface. Using a medium-size tip, direct a slow flame around the inner rim of the gear, being careful not to direct the flame onto the teeth of the ring gear. Place a few drops of water on the face of the gear at intervals during the heating process. When the gear is hot enough to boil the drops of water, installation of gear to torque converter can be made. Place starter gear over flange surface of torque converter, making sure that the rear face of gear contacts flange on torque converter evenly around the entire diameter. Reweld ring gear to torque converter, using extreme care to place, as nearly as possible, the same amount of metal in exactly the same location as original assembly. This is necesary in order to maintain proper balance of the unit. Place welds alternately on opposite sides of the converter to minimize distortion. The following suggestions are offered as an aid in making the weld: (a) Use a welding current of 200 amps. (b) Use a D.C. welder that is set straight polarity or an A.C. welder. (c) Use a 5/32 inch diameter. No. 47 or a 5/32 inch diameter No. W2B (or their equivalent). To prevent burning through the torque converter, the arc should be directed at the intersection of the gear and the housing from an angle of approximately 45 degrees from the face of the gear. DO NOT GAS WELD. Before installing the torque converter, inspect all gear teeth and remove all nicks where metal is raised, welding splatter, etc., as these will cause noisy starter operation.

Installation of Torque Converter (1) Inspect mating surfaces on torque converter and crankshaft flange for burrs and dirt. Install torque converter on crankshaft. (2) Install the eight torque converter stud nuts and lockwashers. Draw down evenly and tighten, as shown in Figure 1. When torque converter assembly is removed from the crankshaft drive flange for any reason, the converter assembly runout should be checked when reinstalled. Runout should not exceed .004 inch total indicator reading. Refer to Correcting Hub Runout. (3) Place torque converter housing over dowels and into position against adapter. (4) Install torque converter housing to adapter screws and lockwashers, draw down evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds torque. (5) Install transmission if housing (converter) bore

419

TORQUE CONVERTER

PUMP DRIVE LUG

ADAPTER (TOOL)

TOOL

•e'\

56 X34O

TORQUE CONVERTER IMPELLER HUB

F¡g. 6—Tool C<346l Installed in Torque Converter Hub

and face runout are within limits. Refer to Paragraph 2.

CORRECTING TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING BORE AND FACE RUNOUT

Torque Converter Housing Bore Runout (1) Mount Tool C-3461, shown in Figure 6, inside the converter with ears of the washer behind the converter pump drive lugs. The square end of the bolt can be held with a wrench as the nut is tightened. Dial indicator set. Tool C-3339, can now be attached to the square end of the bolt, as shown in Figure 7. (2) Locate the indicator so that it is bearing on the transmission pilot bore of the converter housing and rotate the converter as outlined previously. (3) If the bore runout exceeds .010 total indicator reading, the following procedure should be used. The following procedures illustrate a correction made possible by selecting a pair (same part number) of the following three dowels: Part Number

1736347 1736348 1736353

Eccentricity

57x523

Fig. 7—Gauge Installed for Indicating Bore Runout

for dowel to use in relation to total indicator reading) and install both dowels with the slots parallel and aligned in the direction to correct the bore runout. (Refer to Figure 9 for examples.) (Slot indicates the direction of maximum dowel eccentricity.) Majority of corrections wil be for one direction only; but it is possible that the housing bore may be out in two directions. In the latter case, it may be necessary to use the next higher step dowel, adjusting these dowels with the housing installed to bring within tolerance. Care should b e taken to back-up adaptor plate when inserting lower dowel to avoid distortion or breaka g e of a d a p t o r p l a t e . Both dowels should be inserted into adaptor plate up to off-set shoulder. Example No. 1 Housing bore in relation to crankshaft centerline is high .010 for total indicator reading of .020. Readings are as follows: 12 o'clock—0; 3 o'clock—.010 6 o'clock—.020; 9 o'clock—.010. Only vertical adjustment is necessary,

.007" .014" .021"

(4) Determine the amount and direction of bore runout. (5) Loosen intake manifold bolt which holds throttle linkage bracket in position. (6) Remove converter housing. Before proceeding further, it is essential that the torque converter impeller hub runout be within .004 inch total indicator reading. Correct if necessary. (7) Remove the two dowel pins from adaptor plate that align the housing. Removal can be made with "visegrips" and prying with a screw driver or using "special" pliers, as shown in Figure 8. (8) Select eccentric dowels (pair) .007" (No. 1736347), .014" (No. 1736348), or .021" (No. 1736353) (consult chart

57x524

F¡g. 8—Removing Dowel

420

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL . \

ADAPTER PLATE

*^EXAMPLE NO. 1-NOTE ¡ DIRECTION OF SLOT

EXAMPLE NO. 2 NOTE DIRECTION OF SLOT

EXAMPLE NO. 1 \ 57x44

EXAMPLE \ NO. 2

NOTE: NUMERALS REPRESENT CLOCK HOURS FOR LOCATION PURPOSES

F¡g. 9—Orientation Diagram—Positioning Eccentric Dowels

therefore, dowels No. 1736347, inserted in adaptor plate, would lower housing bore centerline. Example No. 2 Housing bore in relation to crankshaft centerline is high .015 and to the left .0075 for a total indicator reading of .030. Readings are as follows: 12 o'clock—0; 3 o'clock— .005; 6 o'clock—.030; 9 o'clock—.020. Vertical and horizontal adjustment is necessary. Dowels should be inserted into adaptor plate with slots of the dowels parallel to one another, since slots are in line with eccentricity of dowel. Use extreme care in selecting the dowel to be used to correct runout in the vertical and horizontal direction. Refer to steps 8 and 10. (9) Install housing making sure mating faces are clean and free from dirt and nicks. Torque bolts.

TOOL

(10) Check bore concentricity; if necessary, loosen bolts and adjust alignment of dowels to give a reading within .010 total indicator reading. If the housing bore runout is found to be over .052 total indicator reading, install a new housing and recheck. If runout still remains over .052 inch total indicator reading, remove housing and install a new adaptor plate (with the old housing) repeating the bore check. In these procedures always check for any imbedded particles or dirt on mating faces. If excessive force is needed to install housing on dowels, recheck to be sure dowel "off-set" is in the same direction and that the slots in the dowel ends are running parallel. ECCENTRIC DOWEL CHART Total Indicator Reading

Amount Off Center

Dowel To Be Used

Part No,

.012 .014 .016 .018 .020 .022 .024 .026 .028 .030 .032 .034 .036 .038 .040 .042 .044 .046 .048 .050 .052

.006 .007 .008 .009 .010 .011 .012 .013 .014 .015 .016 .017 .018 .019 .020 .021 .022 .023 .024 .025 .026

.007 .007 .007 .007 .007 .014 .014 .014 .014 .014 .014 .014 .021 .021 .021 .021 .021 .021 .021 .021 .021

1736347 1736347 1736347 1736347 1736348 1736348 1736348 1736348 1736348 1736348 1736348 1736348 1736353 1736353 1736353 1736353 1736353 1736353 1736353 1736353 1736353

Torque Converter Housing Facing Runout (1) Locate the indicator so that it is bearing on the rear face of the converter housing, as shown in Figure 10, and rotate the converter as outlined previously. (2) If the total indicator reading is greater than .008" note the amount of the total indicator reading and the location of the lowest indicator reading (i.e., the point where the indicator arm or follower is extended the furthest.)

57x525 ^¾£5S¾3S¾5^¾^ ` L % Fig. 10—Gauge Installed for Indicating Face Runout

(3) Place the shim on one or more of the transmission to housing bolts in position between transmission and housing. For the correct location and thickness of the shim, consult the following table:

WHEELS A N D TIRES Location of Housing Face Low Point

Total Indicator Reading Observed on Housing Face

Location of Shim

421

Total Shim Thickness

(a) Near one of the lower trans, to hsg. bolt holes.

(a) Place shim on bolt which will enter this hole.

(a) 1) .005 to .010" 2) .010 to .015" 3) .015 to .020"

(a) 1) .013" 2) .020" 3) .026"

(b) Near one of the upper trans, to hsg. bolt holes.

(b) Place shim on bolt which will enter this hole.

(b) 1) .005 to .010" 2) .010 to .015" 3) .015 to .020"

(b) 1) .014" 2) .021"

2) .010 to .015" 3) .015 to .020"

(d) Between the two upper trans, to hsg. bolt holes.

(d) Place shims on both bolts which will enter these holes.

(d) 1) .005 to .010" 2) .010 to .015" 3) .015 to .020"

(d) 1) .003" 2) .012" 3) 016"

(e) Between the upper and lower trans, to hsg. bolt holes.

(e) Place shims on both bolts which will enter these holes.

(e) 1) .005 to .010"

(e) 1) upper—.010" lower—.014" 2) upper—.015" lower—.020" 3) upper—.020" lower—.027"

Part Number

Thickness

1610442 1610443 1610444

.002" .003" .005"

The above shims, when used in combination, will

2) .010 to .015" 3) .015 to .020"

3) .029"

satisfy any of the required shim thickness listed in the table. Before reinstalling transmision, check for any transmission leakage or damaged parts (seals and bushings). In most cases, the torque converter hub oil seal should be replaced. Install transmission and throttle bracket.

WHEELS AND TIRES CONTENTS SERVICE INFORMATION Care of Tires Checking Tire for Leaks Checking Wheel Run-Out Dismounting Tires General Information Mounting Tires Puncture Repairs Removal of Hub Cap or Chrome Cover Removing Protective Coating from White Side Wall Tires Safety Rim Wheels Tightening Wheel Hub Nuts Tire Rotation Tire Wear

Par. Page 8 6 11 4 — 5 7 3 9 1 2 10 12

427 424 428 423 422 423 425 422 427 422 422 428 429

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

422

Excess Toe in Excess Toe out Excess positive camber Excess negative camber Under-inflation Over-inflation High speed driving Overloading Static unbalance Dynamic unbalance Tires not rotated Impact with solid object

Tire Shimmy

Tire Squeal

Tire Tramp

1 Spotty Wear

•

Wear Uneven

1 | Wear On Inner Ribs

Excessive Wear Center of Tread |

] |

Wear On Outer Ribs

POSSIBLE CAUSES

w^>

Tire Overheats

CONDITIONS

Fabric Injuries

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

• •

• • • • •

• • •

• •

•

• •

•

• •

• • •

•

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES GENERAL INFORMATION Tubeless tires are supplied as standard equipment on Dodge Passenger Cars. A puncturing object in a tubeless tire does not necessarily cause a leak. In most cases, at normal driving speeds, the tire will give many miles of trouble-free service with the puncturing object remaining, and without leaking at the puncture. Some puncturing objects may be thrown out of the tire at high speed operation and cause leakage. To avoid this, the tubeless tire should be inspected regularly to find and remove all puncturing objects. After the object has been removed, the hole in the tire should immediately be sealed, by installing a repair plug. (Refer to Paragraph 7.)

the bead back over this raised portion tends to keep the tire out against the flange even though rapid deflation occurs. Without this feature the tire bead is free to drop into the well, increasing the possibility of the tire leaving the rim. 2. TIGHTENING WHEEL HUB NUTS Whenever a wheel has been removed, it is important to make certain that the wheel hub nuts are securely tightened before driving the car. When installing a wheel tighten the hub nuts equally while the wheel is clear of the ground, then remove the jack and check nuts again with the socket wrench to make sure they are all tight. 3.

1. SAFETY RIM WHEELS The wheel rims incorporate a special safety feature to give added protection in case of a blowout or rapid deflation of the tire while the car is in motion. This takes the form of a raised section between therimflange and the rim well, as shown in "A" of Figure 1. Inflation of the tire snaps the tire bead over this raised section and out against the flange. The force required to pull

REMOVAL OF HUB CAP OR CHROME COVER Insert a screwdriver between the edge of the wheel cover and the rim of the wheel. Care must be exercised to see that the point of the screwdriver is firmly set under the rolled edge of the cover before attempting to remove it. Raise the cover slightly at two or three other positions around the edge until it can be easily removed from the wheel rim.

423

WHEELS A N D TIRES

57x45 Fig. 2—Removing Tire from Wheel with Car Jack 54 x 364A

Fig. 1—Safety Type Rim A—Raised rim section

4. DISMOUNTING TIRES Removing Tire with Car Jack— The bumper jack provided in the tool kit of the car may be used to remove tires from safety rìm wheels as well as jack up car. To do this, proceed as follows: (1) With wheel and tire removed from car, deflate tire completely, by removing valve core. (2) Place wheel on floor or ground under bumper. (3) Arrange jack between bumper and tire and operate it to force bead down off wheel rim, as shown in Figure 2. (4) Turn wheel over and repeat above procedures if necessary to dislodge inside bead. (5) After loosening both beads, squeeze both sides of tire (at one place) together and work into rim well. Then opposite this point, insert a regular tire tool and pry casing off wheel rim. Next, lift other side of tire off wheel.

(5) Turn the wheel over and repeat the foregoing operation. (This need only be done if tire is to be removed from the wheel.) The tire will now be free on the wheel and may be removed with a pair of tire irons in the usual manner. Tubeless tires are not delicate and there is no tube to pinch. However, care should be taken so that the beads are not damaged in dismounting and mounting. Be sure that the tire irons have no sharp or burred edges. 5. MOUNTING TIRES New tubeless tires that have corrugated cardboard spacers to hold the beads in a spread position can be mounted and inflated without special equipment. Tires without spacers will often be flattened in storage so that the beads will set close together. These tires will require special, but simple equipment to spread the beads for initial inflation.

Removing Tire with Special Service Tool— Special heavy duty service Tool C-715 is illustrated in Figure 3. Proceed as follows: (1) Completely deflate tire. Removing valve core is quickest way. (2) Place wheel and tire over base of Tool C-715, then insert pry arm on the tire directly next to the rim of wheel. (3) Exert sufficient pressure on the Tool lever to force bead of tire over the raised section of rim of wheel, as shown in Figure 3. (4) Holding the Tool in the compressed position, press the complete circumference of the tire bead into the wheel well with the foot.

57x22

Fig. 3—-Removing Tire from Wheel

424

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x24

F¡g. 4—Constricting Centerline of Tire with Mechanical Tool

Be sure and clean rim flanges and bead seats with wire brush or steel wool to remove rust, scale or foreign material. This is good practice to follow on any tire. Remove the valve core (if not already removed). A more rapid initial inflation will help seat the tire beads on the rim in case of flattened tires, or wide rims. When mounting tires on safety rim wheels, it is imperative to coat the tire beads with a mild solution of soapy water (1 or 2%). This will enable the tire beads to slip easily over the contours of the rim. Do not use rubber lubricant. Installing Tubeless Tires To install the tubeless tire on the wheel, proceed as follows: (1) Apply a very mild soap and water solution (1 or 2%) on the tire beads. (2) Using tire irons, very carefully mount the inside bead. (3) Again using the tire irons carefully, mount the outer bead. After the tire has been mounted on the wheel, and the valve core out of valve, apply a blast of air. If the beads do not contact both bead seats sufficiently to seal the pressure, then the beads must be spread by constricting the tread centerline, as shown in Figure 4 or 5. The use of the mechanical constrictor Tool C-3440, shown in Figure 4, will seat the beads to seal the pressure for inflation. If the mechanical constrictor is not available, a simple rope tourniquet can be used, as shown in Figure 5. When using the rope tourniquet, use at least one or two turns around the tire (depending on the size of rope). (1) Using a tire iron, twist the rope and at the same time, pound the tread (using a rubber mallet), at various places to evenly distribute the tension.

57x25 F¡g. 5—Constricting Centerline of Tire with Rope Tourniquet

(2) When the beads have moved out to contact the seats, again apply air pressure. This will seal beads against rim. Apply only enough pressure to seat beads. Then remove air pressure hose from valve. (3) Remove the constricting tool or rope, then install valve core. (4) Inflate tire to the recommended pressure. Testing Tubeless Tire Submerge tire and wheel assembly in water test tank and check for leaks. If a test tank is not available, use soap suds method. (See checking tire for leaks Paragraph 6.) 6. CHECKING TIRE FOR LEAKS NOTE: To find leaks in tires, do not remove from wheel. To check tire for leaks, proceed as follows: (1) Examine the tire carefully for pucturing object. (2) If the tire is flat, reinflate and listen for a fast leak. (3) If the leak is too slow to be found by sound, remove wheel and tire then submerge in water test tank. If a test tank is not available, apply a coating of soap solution with a paint brush or hand spray. Cover surface of tire, valve stem and the juncture of tire and rim flange completely. In about five minutes, any slow leak will show up as an accumulation of white foam or air bubbles. Fast leaks will sometimes blow thru the soap film and not form bubbles or foam. If no foam shows, reapply the coating carefully, watching at the same time for large bubbles. Valve leaks usually show up as bubbles issuing from between the valve stem and wheel. Drop some soap solution at this point and watch for the bubble. There have been cases of rim leakage thru cracks or around

WHEELS AND TIRES

425

»«À 57x26

54x379

F¡g. o —Installing "Snap-In" Type Valve Stem, Using Special Tool

rivets. If the leak does not show up from the usual places (punctures, rim flange, valve stem, etc.), then be sure to check the rim. Repairing Leaks

If the leak is a simple puncture, refer to Puncture Repairs, Paragraph 7. If the leak is a faulty valve core, try tightening. If leak continues, replace the valve core. If the leak is around the valve stem, install new stem by dismounting the tire. If a "snap-in" type (see Figure 6) rubber valve stem leaks, it must be replaced. If the leak is at the top of the rim flange (between the flange and tire bead), mark the leaky spot on both the rim and tire with crayon, then dismount. Several conditions can cause leaks at this point. They are as follows: Rusty Rim

Remove the rust with a scraper and finish with wire brush or steel wool. Rust may leave a pitted condition that will leak. Paint the tire and rim in the flange area with rubber cement. Any kind will do, and the thicker, the better. Remount while still wet. Foreign

Material

If foreign material of any nature becomes imbedded into the sealing grooves of the tire, it may cause a slow leak. Remove the foreign material with a wire brush or by scraping the surface with a screwdriver. Apply thick rubber cement to the depression left after removing foreign matter and remount while still wet. Heavy Rim Weld

If the rim weld has not been dressed down, it might cause a slow leak. A good flat file can be used to smooth

Fig. 7—Tubeless Tire Repair Kit

this ofí in the flange area. An application of thick rubber cement will also help in making the seal here. Cracked Rim

This seldom occurs, except when the rim has been welded or badly overloaded. Do not try to fix a cracked rim. Install new wheel. Bent Flanges

Flanges can be straightened if not too badly bent. 7.

PUNCTURE REPAIRS

Outside Method

Ordinary punctures are easy to repair with the "plug" method repair kits, without removing the tire from the rim. The "plug" method can be used with the tire inflated or flat. The latter is preferred. The repair kits contain an assortment of medium and large rubber plugs, a needle inserting tool and repair cement, as shown in Figure 7. In order to repair small punctures in the tubeless tire, the repair procedures should be followed carefully: (1) Remove the puncturing object from the hole. (2) Dip the needle in the repair cement and probe into the puncture to locate its direction, as shown in Figure 8. Repeat until hole is well lubricated. Do not force the needle if it seems to be blocked. Forcing may make a double hole that is difficult to seal completely. If the needle does not insert freely, twist and turn it to feel for the opening. Select the plug or plugs according to the size of the hole, remembering that soft rubber will stretch down. The plugs should be at least twice the diameter of the hole. (3) Roll the small end of the plug into the "eye" of the needle ¾ " from the end of the plug, as shown in Figure 9. (4) Dip plug and needle end in the repair cement

426

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 8—Lubricating Puncture with Cement

54x382

Pig. 1 1 — Plug and Needle Partially Entered in Puncture

Fig. 12—Needle and Plug Fully Entered in Puncture

Fig. 9—Installing Plug in Needle

Fig. 10—Inserting Needle and Plug in Puncture (entering)

and immediately insert into the hole in the tire with firm steady motion. As before, do not try to force it if it seems to be against something solid. Feel for the hole. Push the needle in until the short end of the plug snaps through the tire, as shown in Figures 10, 11, 12 and 13.

54 x 386A Fig. 13—Plug and Needle Installed in Puncture (Sectional View)

(If necessary, install one or two plugs as required to fill the puncture.) (5) Remove the needle by pulling straight out. The plug will unhook automatically. Trìm the plug approximately ½" above the tread surface. Then check for leakage, and the tire is ready for service.

427

WHEELS A N D TIRES

A properly installed "plug" will last the life of the tire. Figure 14 shows in cross section a properly installed repair plug. The portion of the plug protruding outside the tire will wear down to the tread surface after a short period of service. The portion remaining inside the tire does not affect the normal operation of the tire. Inside Method When a tire has been punctured by an irregular shaped object, it may still leak when repaired by the "outside" method. (The "outside method" is recommended first because it is the easiest.) This condition, when found, will require the use of the "inside" method for repair. Preparation Remove the tire from the wheel, as described in Paragraph 4. Install spreaders. Trim the inside end of plug flush with the liner. Next, buff the liner approximately 1 inch around the puncture. (Be sure and leave the plug in the hole as this will serve to keep moisture out of the tire fabric.) If no plug is available, a little extra repair gum should be worked into the hole before applying the patch. It is not necessary to use cement to obtain good adhesion. Equipment Two types of equipment are now available for curing inside patches. The "Match Patch" or powder burning type depends upon heat from the slow fire. The "Electric" type has a "fuse" plug that automatically cuts off the power when the cure is completed. Both types depend upon "C" clamps for pressure during cure. NOTE: All inside patches must be HOT PATCHES. Patch Remove the strip from the rubber patch on the metal curing plate and center over puncture. Apply pressure and cure according to instructions supplied with the equipment. The "plug" shop repair kit, and either one of the inside curing methods will provide easy, completely permanent repairs for any kind of a tubeless tire puncture that hasn't seriously damaged the cord body. Other types of rubber plugs are available, but none of them match the simplicity of the "plug" method. You simply plug the hole. 8.

CARE OF TIRES

Tire Pressure The air pressure recommended for Super-Cushion tires depends on whether the tire is cold or, whether the tire has been run several hours causing pressure build-up. 24 pounds is the recommended COLD or starting pressure for all cars except the

54 x 388A

Fig. 1

-Sealing Plug Correctly Installed

Coronet V-8 which is 26 pounds. Because the tire pressure is seldom checked when tires are cold, the following recommendations are made: 27 pounds (Coronet V-8, 29) is the normal operating pressure at moderate speeds in the city. This is the correct tire pressure after the car has been driven at normal speed in the city, summer and winter. A pressure build-up of at least 3 pounds over cold pressure of 24 pounds (26 Coronet V-8) is normal, otherwise the tires are underinflated. 29 pounds (Coronet V-8, 31) is the normal operating pressure at high speeds. This means that after a car has been driven at a high rate of speed, a pressure build-up of at least 5 pounds over the cold pressure of 24 pounds (26 Coronet V-8) is normal, otherwise the tires are underinflated. Never bleed builtup pressure in a tire as it is designed to protect itself by building up a safe pressure after it is run. Pressure build-up voids excessive sidewall flexing and heat which are detrimental to tire life. Always use an accurate gauge when checking tire pressure. A tire gauge can be in error as much as 2 or 3 pounds which is 10 per cent of the recommended tire pressure. 9.

REMOVING PROTECTIVE COATING FROM WHITE SIDEWALL TIRES All white sidewall tires are protected with a water soluble coating over the sidewalls. Each tire has, printed on this protective coating, the following: WARNING Remove white sidewall protective coating from all tires, including spare, by washing with water. Do not use wire brush or gasoline. For care and cleaning of white sidewall tires after they have been on the road, any good kitchen cleaner.

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

428 RIGHT FRONT

DIRECTION OF FORCE CENTER LINE OF W H E E L -

SPINDLE

CENTER LINE OF WEIGHT MASS

AXIS OF ROTATION

STEERING KNUCKLE PIVOT

LEFT REAR

RIGHT REAR

DIRECTION OF FORCE54x393A

Fig. 16—Dynamic Unbalance 57X23

Fig. 15—Tire Rotation

such as Bon Ami or Dutch Cleanser, should be used. A stiff brush is recommended; any sort of a metal or wire brush or one which would scratch the sidewall should not be used. It is not advisable to use gasoline. It is not only ineffective but could possibly injure the tires. 10. TIRE ROTATION Tires, like a person's shoes, are subject to wear—and like shoes, tires are prone to wear unevenly. Because of the need for a balanced wheel and tire assembly at today's high speeds it is desirable to rotate the tires (Figure 15) at frequent intervals; approximately 3000 miles is the recommended mileage at which to make this rotation. Static Balance Static balance (Still Balance) is the equal distribution of weight of the tire and wheel assembly around its axis of rotation. The assembly should have no tendency to rotate by itself, regardless of its position. An assembly that has a heavy side, will rotate by itself until the heavy side is at the bottom. After checking a wheel and tire assembly the unbalanced condition (if found) can be corrected by attaching a suitable weight at a point directly opposite the heavy side, or removing tire from rim of wheel and rotate 180° from its original position. A wheel and tire that is out of Static Balance can cause an up and down hopping or pounding action, which will affect steering ability and control. Before checking a wheel and tire for static balance, be sure and remove dirt, old weights and stones from the tread of the tire.

Remember, a carefully balanced, true running wheel is an essential factor for easy steering and maximum tire mileage. The importance of maintaining running balance in the wheel and tire assemblies should not be over-estimated. Dynamic Balance Dynamic Balance (Running Balance) is the even distribution of the total weight of the wheel and tire assembly around its axis of rotation. An assembly can be in static balance yet not balanced dynamically. A wheel and tire assembly correctly balanced should run smoothly at all speeds on its axis of rotation through the centerline of the wheel. (See Figure 17.) If wheel and tire weight is unevenly distributed in relation to the centerline of the wheel, as shown in Figure 16 "A", centrifugal force when the wheel is rotating will throw the wheel out of line in one direction then in the opposite as the wheel rotates 180° and will increase as car speeds increase. This can cause wheel wobble or shimmy, as shown in Figure 16 "B". To correct this condition, weight should be added so that the total weight is evenly distributed in relation to both the axis of rotation and the centerline of the wheel, as shown in Figure 17. 11.

CHECKING WHEEL AND TIRE ' RUN-OUT Since the general practice of checking a wheel for runout is to measure the radial and lateral movement of the tire, it should be remembered that such run-out is only an indication and not a proof that the wheel may be at fault. Where measurements indicate that the wheel and tire assembly exceed the permissible .090" or approximate % 2 " radial runout, or .120" or approximately ¼" lateral (wobble) run-out, the tire should be removed from the wheel and the wheel itself checked.

429

WHEELS A N D TIRES

CENTER LINE OF WHEEL

EVEN BALANCE STEERING KNUCKLE PIVOT

WHEEL S P I N N I N G N O WOBBLE 54x394 A

5A × .?9Í>A

Fig. 17—Dynamically Balanced Wheel and Tire

Fig. 18—Checking Wheel and Tire Run-out

Referring to Figure 18, the radial run-out at each point, indicated by "A", should not exceed .045", while the lateral run-out, when checked at points "B", should not exceed .060" or approximately ¾ 6 " total. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should points indicated by "C" be used for checking run-out as this metal has been sheared in the manufacturing process and as a result is not an even surface. When checking the wheel for run-out, it should be attached to a hub that is free to rotate but tight enough to prevent any wobble; likewise, the dial indicator should be known to be accurate and attached to a firm surface to assure that it will be held steady while taking the run-out readings.

fast, or sharply; along with high speed driving will contribute to increased and uneven tire wear. Other types of tire wear due to improper adjustment of the front suspension or other conditions of the vehicle can be corrected by checking and correcting front suspension alignment.

12. TIRE WEAR Waves, flat spots, gouges, and cupping in the tire tread are all types of wear. Wear of this type may be caused by one or more factors, many of which are difficult to isolate. For example, a single flat spot may be worn in the tread and caused by an unbalanced wheel due to either wheel and tire static unbalance or an out-of-round brake drum. Looseness in the front suspension parts (ball joints, bushings, upper and lower suspension arm mountings, shock absorbers and steering linkage) will permit erratic and irregular wheel movement and cause uneven tire wear. Mechanical inspection, repair and alignment, together with wheel and tire balancing will usually disclose and correct the causes of uneven tire wear. Be sure, at the time of correction, rotate wheels and tires as described in Paragraph 10. Certain types of tire wear are caused by improper adjustments or condition of the vehicle while other irregular tire wear is due to poor driving habits or improper tire inflation. Rapid acceleration, sudden, severe brake application, turning corners, rounding curves too

Spotty Wear Spotty wear occurs on front wheels, as shown in Figure 19. This condition does not progress to any great extent prior to 2,500 miles. This type of wear is the natural result of free rolling wheels and tires. Wheel alignment or front wheel balancing will NOT correct this condition. The only known method to control the formation of spotty wear is to rotate tires every 2,500 miles. Camber Wear Excessive positive camber will develop noticeable wear

57x31

Fig. 19—Spotty Wear

430

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x32

Fig. 20—Camber Wear

Fig. 23—Under-lnflat¡on Wear

on the outer ribs of tires, as shown in Figure 20. Excessive negative camber will develop noticeable wear on the inside ribs of tires. Camber should be adjusted ONLY if this type of wear is evident. Refer to Front Wheel Alignment. Toe-In and Toe-Out Wear r.

57x33

Fig. 21—Toe-in Wear

The amount of front wheel toe-in or toe-out affects the rate of tire wear more than any other single cause. See Figure 21 for toe-in wear and Figure 22 for toe-out wear. Refer to Front Wheel Alignment. Under-ln flat ion Wear Tubeless tires are sub}ect to underinflation wear in the same way as previous tires, as shown in Figure 23. This type of wear is characterized by excessive wear on the two tread ribs adjacent to the inner and outer shoulder ribs. When a condition of this kind develops, it is an indication that the tire has been run at a lower operating

57x34

Fig. 22—Toe-Out Wear

Fig. 24—Over-Inflation Wear

AIR CONDITIONING pressure than that for which it is designed. Overinflation wear can be detected by excessive wear at the center of the tread.

Over-Inflation Wear Tubeless Tires are subject to over-inflation wear in the same way as previous tires. Over-inflation reduces deflection from normal and causes the tire to wear in

431

the center of the tread, as shown in Figure 24, with little or no wear on the outside edges. Over-inflation also causes abnormal tire growth, which subjects the tread to excessive stretching and tread cracking. Overinflation reduces traction, skid resistance and breaking efficiency, increases the possibility of cuts and bruises and lowers the resistance of the fabric to injuries.

AIR CONDITIONING CONTENTS

Par.

Charging the System Checking Refrigerant (Sight Glass) Compressor Compressor Shaft Seal Replacement Discharging the System Evacuating and Sweeping System General Information inspection and Testing of Complete Air Conditioning System Installing Gauge Set Manifold Magnetic Clutch Measuring Compressor Oil Level Moisture in Air Conditioning System Precautions to Observe in Handling the Refrigerant Precautions to Observe in Handling Tubing Removal and Installation of Air Conditioning Unit Removal and Installation of Compressor for Engine or Compressor Service Removal of Expansion Valve Removal of Heater Core Replacing Compressor (Oil Level Precaution) Replacing Compressor Valve Plate Assembly Replacement of Receiver Strainer-Drier Replacement of Receiver Strainer-Drier Fusible Plug Servicing the Compressor Testing Electrical Switches and Control Circuits Testing Expansion Valve Testing for Leaks Testing for Proper Super Heat Temperature-Pressure Relation Chart Testing Thermal Switch

9 5 21 26 6 7 — 1 3 27 14 8 2 13 15 24 19 16 23 25 17 18 22 12 20 4 11 — 10

Page 443 439 449 452 440 440 432 437 439 454 446 441 438 446 447 451 448 447 450 452 447 448 450 444 449 439 444 445 443

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS No attempt should be made to use the diagnosis information as a method of trouble shooting or spot checking. When properly used (as an aid to the complete test procedure), the diagnosis will be of considerable value to th· service man.

¿ CONDITIONS

POSSIBLE CAUSES Defective Lead Wire (Test circuit with point-to-point voltmeter test)

3*.

J¦.S

iì Ji

If ox

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

432

Defective Motor Defective Switch (Test with voltmeter, or jump wire) (Refer to paragraph 12) Loose Connections (Test with voltmeter for voltage drop) Low Refrigerant Moisture in System Restriction in Strainer-Drier Kinks in Line Dirty or Defective Expansion Valve Leaks in System (See Note No. 1) Compressor Capacity (Refer to Paragraph 1) Defective Thermal Switch (Refer to Paragraph 10) Condensor Lines Kinked or Obstructed Condensor Air Passages Obstructed (See Note No. 2) Temperature—Pressure Relation of Refrigerant (Refer to Chart, Page 445) Kinked liquid line Air in system (See Note No. 3) Restricted Receiver-Strainer Super Heat (Refer to Paragraph 11) Too much Refrigerant (See Note No. 4) NOTE No. 1—Where a system has been found to be low on refrigerant or following repairs on the system that necessitated the opening of a connection, it is necessary to test for leaks, as described in Paragraph 4. NOTE No. 2—Clean air passages, through condensor, with warm water and compressed air applied from engine side of condenser.

Low Suction PressureHead Pressure O.K.

Suction Pressure O.K. And High Head Pressure

Low Suction Pressure And Low Head Pressure

Blowers OperatingPartial Cooling

POSSIBLE CAUSES

m^>

Blowers and Compressor Operating—No Cooling

CONDITIONS

Blower Not Operating

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS (Continued)

•

# # • •

process. For summer operation, the air is dehumidified and cooled as it passes through the evaporator coil and then reheated, by the heater core, to a temperature that DEFROSTER OR COOLING OUTLET GRILLES OUTSIDE COWL VENT INTAKE EVAPORATOR COIL HEATER CORE

NOTE No. 3—Open gauge manifold discharge pressure valve slightly, and leave open for 10 seconds to purge air. Close valve, start engine, and recheck gauge pressure at 1200 r.p.m. NOTE No. 4—Operate engine at 1200 r.p.m. with blower switch turned to "High." Discharge refrigerant slowly through gauge center fitting until bubbles appear in sight glass. Charge system with refrigerant, as outlined in Paragraph 9.

GENERAL INFORMATION A new combined Heater and Air conditioning unit, as shown in Figure 1, has been developed for the Dodge cars. The unit is located under the dash area and provides temperature control for all-weather driving. Temperature control is obtained through a reheating

FRESH AIR DOOR POWER PISTON

WATER FLOW CONTROL^ VALVE

AIR CONDITIONING HEATER SWITCH CONTROL LEVER PLENUM , BLOWER \ \ / CHAMBER PANEL A N D FLOOR DUCT / ^ DISTRIBUTION ` DUCT \ DAMPER: CONTROL v ^ q 57 x 5 89

Fig. 1—Heater-Air Conditioning (Schematic Drawing) Passenger Compartment Installation

AIR CONDITIONING

433 COOLING HEAT

OUTSIDE AIR COWL VENT INTAKE \

COWL VENT DOOR (CLOSED)

HEATING CORE

TO DISTRIBUTION DUCTS . \ >

EVAPORATOR COIL ONE-PIECE MOLDED PLASTIC HOUSING

RECIRCULATING DOOR (OPEN)

WATER FLOW -* CONTROL VALVE COMPRESSOR LINES

DAMPER DOOR

Fig. 2—Heater-Air Conditioning (Schematic Drawing) Engine Compartment Installation

is selected by the driver. The amount of heat added to the air as it passes through the heater core is controlled by the flow of hot water through the core and is regulated by a modulating valve. A temperature control gives dehumidification even when minimum cooling is desired. During the heating cycle, outside air is introduced into the system through a permanently open vent in the top of the cowl section, as shown in Figure 2. Fresh air is drawn through both the cooling and heating coils by the centrifugal blower, as shown in Figure 3. The air heated by the heating coil, is then forced into the duct for distribution. The cooling cycle is similar except that the air may be brought from the outside or it may be recirculated through the recirculating door, as shown in Figure 4. The controls are so arranged that the recirculation feature is only employed when maximum cooling capacity is required. Operating

Controls

The controls for the heater-air conditioner are partially power actuated. COOLING

COWL VENT

HEATING

57x596

Fig. 4—Recirculating and Damper Door

The main control lever operates the water temperature valve through a control cable; the fresh air and recirculating door (through two electric switches), solenoid valve, and power piston assembly as shown in Figure 5. When the solenoid valve is energized, it permits engine oil pressure to act on the power piston, closing the cowl vent fresh air door and opening the recirculating door. Figure 6 shows fresh air and recirculating doors. Figure 7 shows schematic diagram of hydraulic circuit for operating the power piston. Two separate control knobs are located on the instrument panel. The knob marked "B" is used to control the blower motor speed. Three speeds are available through the selection of wire taps in the motor fields. The first position of the knob is "off," the second position is "low," the third position is "medium" and the last position is "high." Positions are obtained by turning the knob in a clockwise direction. The knob marked "D" controls the positioning of the distribution duct damper, and etc. RECIRCULATING DOOR

COWL VENT DOOR OPEN PISTON ASSEMBLY TWO WAY SOLENOID VALVE \CHECK VALVE

ENGINE OIL PAN

BLOWER

POWER PISTON

57x597 «—HIGH PRESSURE ENGINE OIL

Fig. 3—Blower Motor and Vent Door (Schematic Drawing)

57x590

F¡g. 5—Power Piston and Recirculating Door

434

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

COOLING

HEATING

i—Q¯Z3

DISCHARGE

SUCTION

U N E

COMPRESSOR \

TO TEMPERATURE CONTROL SWITCH

FRESH AIR DOOR (CLOSED) TO COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CONDENSER

RECIRCULATING DOOR (OPEN)

EVAPORATOR DISTRIBUTOR

DAMPER

57x591

Fig. 6—Rec¡rculat¡ng and Fresh Air Door

The toggle switch, with positions marked "Cooling" and "Heating," permits the energizing of the compressor clutch circuit and the resistance coil of the water temperature control valve. This action occurs when the toggle switch is in the "Cooling position. When the switch is in the "Heating" position, it insures that these circuits will not be energized. T h e m a i n control lever must be in some position other than "Off" to permit the closing of the clutch and coil circuits by the toggle switch. The position of the toggle switch effects the operation of recirculating door. Positioning Control Lever Moving the main control lever from "Off" to "Cold" (No. 2 position), with the toggle switch in "Cooling" position, results in the following sequence of operations.

TWO WAY SOLENOID VALVE

CHECK VALVE' TO PREVENT LOSS OF OIL |rFROM HIGH PRESSURE ^PRESSURE DURING ENGINE POINT IN ENGINE IDLE OIL SYSTEM

AUXILIARY DRAIN TUBE FOR AIR AND OIL LEAKAGE PAST PISTON

T 0 LOW PRESSURE POINT IN ENGINE OIL SYSTEM

OIL CIRCUIT WHEN ACTUATION IS REQUIRED (RECIRCULATING DOOR OPEN ) OIL CIRCUIT WHEN PRESSURE IS NOT REQUIRED •(RECIRCULATING DOOR CLOSED) 5? × 499

Fig. 7—Hydraulic Circuit for Power Piston

RECEIVER-STRAINER-DRIER

LIQUID

EXPANSION

LINE

VALVE

57x593

Fig. 8—Heater-Air Conditioning (Schematic)

(1) Compressor clutch and water valve heating element is energized. (Refer to Figures 8 and 9.) (2) Fresh air door closed and recirculating door open resulting in 80% recirculated air, 20% fresh air if the engine is running. (3) Maximum cooling will be obtained. Moving the main control lever to the right from the "Cold" (No. 2 position) with toggle switch on "Cooling" position, the following operational sequence will occur: (1) The fresh air door opens and recirculating door closes due to de-energization of the solenoid valve. (2) Full fresh air cooling obtained. (3) Lever mechanism picks up the cable controlling the water temperature control valve and prepares to open the valve. Moving the main control lever from position No. 3 through "Warmer" to position No. 4 opens the water temperature control valve. At the warmest point in the "Cooling" position, the water valve will allow the heater core to reheat the cooled air to approximately 75° F. Moving the main control lever from "Off" to "Cold" (No. 2 position) (with toggle switch in "Heating" position) de-energizes the solenoid valve, allowing the recirculating door to close and the fresh air door to open. As the main control lever is moved from the "Cold" position to the No. 3 position, with the toggle switch in "Heating" position the lever mechanism picks up the cable controlling the water temperature control valve and prepares to open valve. Moving the main control lever from position No. 3 through "Warmer" to position No. 4 opens the water temperature control valve. At the warmest point in the "Heating" position, the water valve allows the temperature of the discharge air to reach aproximately 130° F. The fresh air door will always open and the recirculating door will always close when the car engine is stopped. This puts the system in a "safe" position for car washing or parking during a rainstorm, etc.

CONTROL A C T I O N S WITH ENGINE OPERATING

FRESH AIR DOOR CLOSED RECIRCULATING D O O R OPEN N O . 1 SWITCH O P E N N O . 2 SWITCH CLOSED

COMPRSSOR CLUTCH

18 BLUE-

THERMAL SWITCH

FRESH AIR D O O R O P E N N O . 1 SWITCH CLOSED HEATING

r¯ RECIRCULATING

FOOLER" ELEMENT WATER VALVE

DOOR C L O S E D N O . 2 SWITCH CLOSED ¯FRESH AIR D O O R O P E N N O . 1 SWITCH CLOSED

RHEOSTAT / (RESISTANCE DECREASES AS ^ V ý V i WATER VALVE IS OPENED) -18 WHITE —¾¢>

RECIRCULATING D O O R CLOSEDN O . 2 SWITCH OPEN

OFF

18 WHITE

18 RED SWITCH N O . 1

SWITCH N O . 2 WARMER—** COLD

COOLING

VINDICATES POSITION OF MAIN LEVER ARM

COOL'

HEAT

CLUTCH CIRCUIT CLOSED FOOLER CIRCUIT CLOSED FRESH AIR D O O R O P E N RECIRCULATING D O O R CLOSED N O . 1 SWITCH CLOSED N O . 2 SWITCH OPEN

NORMALLY NORMALLY CLOSED

18 BLACK-

CLUTCH CIRCUIT CLOSED FOOLER CIRCUIT CLOSED FRESH AIR DOOR CLOSED RECIRCULATING D O O R OPEN N O . 1 SWITCH CLOSED N O . 2 SWITCH CLOSED

NORMALLY O P E N FRESH AIR A N D 18 RECIRCULATING RED DOOR SOLENOID (ENERGIZING O F SOLENOID CIRCUIT CLOSES FRESH AIR A N D OPENS RECIRCULATING DOOR) COOL

18 YELLOW

OPEN

NORMALLY CLOSED

-18 WHITE-

HEAT SELECTOR SWITCH

CLUTCH CIRCUIT OPEN FOOLER CIRCUIT O P E N FRESH AIR D O O R CLOSED RECIRCULATING D O O R O P E N N O . 1 SWITCH OPEN N O . 2 SWITCH CLOSED

-18 RED CAR C O O L I N G BLOWER SWITCH 16 DARK G R E E N WHITE STRIPEv

CAR C O O L I N G A N D HEATER BLOWER M O T O R .

TEMPERATURE GAUGE

I G N I T I O N SWITCH BATTERY

HIGH

16 T A N - W H I T E STRIPE-

16 BLACK-WHITE STRIPE

16 BROWN-WHITE STRIPE¯

\ 16 BLACK

57x508

Fig. 9—Wiring Diagram

436

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL UPPER DISTRIBUTION DUCTS ACTUATOR R E T U R N — ¾ — ü ^ W I N D S H I E L D WIPER

I ·~ "WÊa^mmtmmT`—¯¯¯

£L 57x625 FRESH AIR DOOR ACTUATOR

WATER FLOW VALVE

Fig. 12—Thermal Switch Installed (Typical View)

LOWER DISTRIBUTION DUCT

Temperature Fig. 10—Distributor Duct Installed

Air Discharge and

Distribution

Cooled or heated air can be distributed to either the upper or lower level of the car and it can be proportioned between the upper and lower level. Conditioned air is forced into the car by the blower. The air enters a distribution ductƒ as shown in Figure 10, and can be discharged toward the floor of the car (through slots in the duct) or it can be forced through two discharge grilles in the top of the instrument panel by means of a damper. In general, the air will be discharged to the lower level for heating and through the upper grilles for defrosting and air conditioning. The discharge grille, in the top of the instrument panel (Figure 11), can be rotated 360°. Also, the grilles have hinged deflectors which can be used to direct air as desired by the occupants.

Control

For summer operation, the air is dehumidified and cooled as it passes through the evaporator coil and then reheated, by the heater core, to the desired temperature. A thermostatic switch is used to prevent the evaporator coil from frosting-over and is installed in the evaporator to sense the fin temperature of the coil. As the temperature of the evaporator fins decreases to a point where frost-over might occur, the thermal switch (Figure 12) will break the compressor clutch circuit, stopping refrigeration until the fin temperature increases to a point above the freezing point of water. The same modulating water valve is used for temperature control for both heating and cooling. The temperature range of the valve is changed by an electric resistance heating coil when cooling is selected by the operator. For the heating cycle, this temperature range will be from about 75° F. to 130° F. The discharge range for Air Conditioning, at summer operation, will be approximately 40° F. to 75° F. This shift in the temperature

GRILLES

CAPILLARY TUBE IN BLOWER OUTLET DUCT

WATER VALVE FOOLER — ELEMENT CAPILLARY TUBE

57×758

Fig. 11—Discharge Grille

RESISTANCE COIL CONTROL SWITCH WIRE 57x595

Fig. 13—Capillary Tube and Water Valve

AIR CONDITIONING range is accomplished by the heating of the valve's temperature sensitive secondary capillary tube with a resistance heating coil wound around the secondary capillary tube. Heating the secondary tube, in effect, "tricks" the primary capillary tube (Figure 13) (located

437

in the distribution duct) by making it appear warmer than the discharge air flowing over it. The valve will then tend to close, thus reducing heating of the air and shifting the temperature to the desired level.

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES 1.

INSPECTION AND TESTING OF COMPLETE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM Refer to Figure 33 for illustration showing Special Service Tools used in servicing the Heater-Air Conditioner.

•HEATER BLOWER OPENING «,,

-,/

HEATER CORE TO DASH GASKET! HEATER RECIRCULATING DOOR

Preparation for Tests (1) Move car into a well ventilated area and shut off engine. Then connect exhaust suction system to tail pipe. (2) Inspect condenser and radiator for bugs, etc. Remove all obstructions by blowing with compressed air. PLENUM CHAMBERJDRAJN OPENINGS

Radiator (1) Check radiator pressure cap. A 14 p o u n d p r e s s u r e c a p a n d a 180° F. thermostat is u s e d i n a l l models. (2) Check cooling system and add water or anti-freeze to maintain proper level. T h e c o o l i n g system must

be protected to a temperature of 20° above zero for summer. Compressor Belt Check compressor belt tension with a 5 pound pull scale in center of longest belt span. Compressor belt deflection (each belt) should be ‰ inch for a new belt and % inch for used belts. A belt having a minimum of ½ hour engine run is considered a used belt. Always replace both belts. Never run a new belt with an old belt. Blower Motor Check for loose or poor electrical connections (see Figure 9). Check blower switch. Make a blower circulation check by operating the blower on each of its three operating positions; "low," "medium" and "high." Check for change in operational speeds and circulation. Drains Check plenum chamber and air conditioner housing drains (Figure 14) for being clear. Compressor Capacity Test To make a compressor capacity test, the system must be isolated from the compressor. In isolating the compressor from the system, a .020" test cap. Tool SP-2922,

PLENUM Ml M i l l

ÉÉÉHMMihfc

/.¾¾

Fig. 14—Plenum Chamber and Drain Openings (Typical View) must be used to measure the amount of air pressure the compressor delivers at a given engine speed. To make a compressor capacity test with a test cap, proceed as follows: (1) Start engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m. Then, turn blower switch to "High" and temperature control lever to "Cold" position. Open car windows. (2) Allow engine to operate until engine and compressor are up to normal operating temperature. (3) Stop engine and remove the valve stem protective caps from suction and discharge valves. Use rachet wrench, Tool C-3361 and back-seat both suction and discharge service valves by turning valves c o u n t e r c l o c k w i s e all the way. (4) Remove service port caps from suction discharge service valve and attach hoses from gauge set manifold. Tool C-3354. (5) Attach hose from compound gauge, on left of gauge assembly, to the suction service port. Attach hose from right gauge to discharge service port. (6) Close both right and left hand shut-off valves c l o c k w i s e on the gauge set manifold. (7) Start engine and with compressor operating, adjust engine speed to exactly 500 r.p.m. (8) With rachet wrench. Tool C-3361, rotate valve stem of suction service valve c l o c k w i s e until valve is com-

438

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

pletely front-seated. Front s e a t i n g the v a l v e s will c a u s e suction p r e s s u r e to d r o p to z e r o , a n d from a z e r o r e a d i n g to a v a c u u m r e a d i n g " p u m p i n g d o w n " a l l of the r e f r i g e r a n t out of the compressor. (9) With compound gauge reading 20 to 25 inches of vacuum rotate valve stem of discharge service valve c l o c k w i s e until valve is completely front-seated. Open the right hand shut-off valve counter-clockwise on the gauge manifold set. This will a l l o w t h e s m a l l a m o u n t of g a s t r a p p e d b e t w e e n compressor a n d d i s c h a r g e v a l v e to v e n t d o w n to z e r o r e a d i n g t h r o u g h g a u g e manifold s e t c e n t e r connection hose. (10) Open left hand shut-off valve on manifold, remove hose from center connection of gauge set. (11) Attach capacity test cap, Tool SP 2922, to center connection of gauge set manifold. (12) Disconnect manifold hose from suction service valve leaving service port open. Test c a p must b e absolutely clean before installation on gauge set connection. Wash with solvent and blow dry. Test cap is meter drilled and wire or similar instrument should never be used to open the vented orifice. If this is done a doubtful gauge reading may result. (13) Close left hand shut-off valve on manifold while noting the pressure rise reading on high pressure gauge. (14) Operating engine at exactly 500 r.p.m. the pressure reading on high gauge should read 190 to 210 psi. To make sure reading on gauge is correct, open and close the left hand shut-off valve (on gauge set) several times. If pressure readings rise on gauge and correspond to specified specifications, the compressor is functioning up to specifications. If p r e s s u r e r e a d i n g i s below specifications and tachometer and gauge is reading accurately, stop engine and check compressor oil level since low oil level will cause a lower capacity test reading. (15) Add oil to compressor (if necessary) and recheck the compressor for capacity test readings. If compressor pressure is below the prescribed specifications the compressor valve plate assembly should be replaced. (16) After replacing valve plate on compressor (if necessary) make a capacity test to again determine compressor pressure capacity. If compressor (with oil level corrected, and valve plates replaced) does not come up to specified pressure, remove suction service valve from compressor. (17) Inspect suction screen (located in opening under valve) and see that it is clean, and that gasket is properly seated. If screen is clean and gasket is not damaged, and compression test does not come up to specifications, the compressor should be replaced. When

replacing compressor, an adjustment must be made to compensate for the oil remaining in system. Check and correct oil level in compressor (Âž" to 1 dipstick measurement), Âź " drill rod should be satisfactory. Start engine and run for approximately 15 minutes and check oil level again. Add or subtract to maintain s p e c i e d limit. Remove compressor test vent cap from manifold and wrap cap in clean cloth to protect orifice from dirt and grit. (18) Open right hand shut-off valve on manifold gauge 3et. Close left hand shut-off valve. Connect suction hose to service port of suction service port. (19) With engine running at 500 r.p.m. and compressor engaged, "pump down" the compressor by bleeding the air out of compressor through manifold gauge center connection. When 25 to 28 reading is indicated on vacuum gauge, turn suction service valve a fraction of a turn counter-clockwise for a few seconds and then front-seat the valve. This will allow small amount of gas accumulated in suction line to flow into compressor and crankcase, mixing with and to be absorbed by the oil. This operation will also cause the gas to flow through the compressor's cylinder and out through the manifold gauge center connection. (20) Probe the gauge center connection with tip of finger. If probing with finger at connection indicates no more gas is flowing, close right hand valve on manifold gauge set. (21) Stop engine and turn both suction and discharge service valves c o u n t e r - c l o c k w i s e until they are completly back-seated. After back-seating each valve, turn (each valve) one turn c l o c k w i s e to operating test position. (22) After completion of test, turn both suction and discharge service valves c o u n t e r - c l o c k w i s e until they are fully back-seated. (23) Open both hand shut-off valves on manifold to release pressure on manifold gauge hoses. (24) Disconnect and remove hoses from both service valves. (25) Replace valve stem and service port caps and both service valves. (26) Adjust fan belt and check both cylinder head to compressor attaching bolts for tightness.

PRECAUTIONS TO OBSERVE IN HANDLING THE REFRIGERANT

When properly used, refrigerant is harmless. A few simple precautions, however, should be observed to guard against injuries or sickness that might occur when refrigerant is improperly handled. Precaution:Do not expose eyes to liquid. Do not rub eyes if splash of refrigerant hits them. Apply cold

AIR CONDITIONING

439

completely back-seated (counter-clockwise). The normal operating position is when valve is rotated in a counter-clockwise direction. This MOISTURE DETECTING EYE

MOISTURE DETECTING EYE DRIER CARTRIDGE

REFRIGERANT

position also isolates service valve ports from system pressure. (3) Remove protective caps from both discharge and suction service port fittings. Install a test hose from 600 pound gauge fitting on Tool C-3354 to discharge service valve port fitting. Install a test hose from 300 pound compound gauge fitting on Tool C-3354 to suction service valve port fitting. (4) Turn both valve handles of gauge set Tool C-3354, c l o c k w i s e as far as they will go. This will completely seat valves and isolate gauge set manifold center outlet from test hoses. To admit pressure to gauges, rotate valve stems of both suction and discharge service valves

one turn, clockwise. 4. TESTING FOR LEAKS WITH LEAK DETECTOR

57X502

Fig. 15â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Refrigerant Tank, Detecting Eye and Drier Cartridge (Schematic View)

water immediately to area of eye to gradually raise the temperature above freezing point. The use of antiseptic oil is helpful since oil forms a protective film over eye ball until medical aid can be obtained. WARNING: Safety Goggles, C-3355, should be worn to protect the eyes. Precaution: Do not discharge refrigerant in area where an open flame is present. The refrigerant normally is non-poisonous. A concentration of gas in a live flame, however, will produce a poisonous gas. Splashing refrigerant on bright metal or chrome should also be avoided because the gas will tarnish bright metal. Use care to prevent moisture entering system. It is imperative (when sweeping or charging the system) that the refrigerant be passed through a Drier and Dry-Eye assembly before the refrigerant enters the Air Conditioning system. (See Figure 15 for methods of attaching Dry-Eye and Drier to tank assembly.) To avoid moisture and free water entering the system, use only sealed and unopened charging refrigerant tanks. 3. INSTALLING GAUGE SET MANIFOLD (1) Remove valve stem protective caps from compressor discharge and suction service valves. (2) Using Tool C-3361, make sure both valves are

When system is found to be low in refrigerant (or following repairs on system that necessitated opening of connection) it is necessary to test for leaks and tighten connections, or to make repairs as required before system is charged and put in operation. If system has been charged, for making repairs, or to eliminate moisture, system must be evacuated before partially charging to test for a leak. (1) Partially charge system with refrigerant and proceed as follows: (This is necessary only where supply in system is very low, or when system has been evacuated.) (2) Tool C-3444 (Halide Test Torch) uses petroleum gas and does not require generating to light. Just turn valve on, light it, and adjust to small flame. (3) Move leak detector sniffer tube over all connections. When leak is found, flame in burner will turn bright g r e e n . Move detector tube around connection to determine magnitude of leak. If larger leak is found, color of flame will turn from bright g r e e n to bright

purple. If leak is found at flared connection, try tightening connection, using two wrenches. If leak cannot be eliminated by tightening, system must be discharged, connection or flare reseated or replaced, system evacuated and again partially charged, and re-tested. If no leaks are found, add to partial charge until system contains three pounds. 5. CHECKING REFRIGERANT BY SIGHT GLASS METHOD In some cases, it may be necessary to add refrigerant (without weighing refrigerant) to the system. (1) Follow preliminary steps in "Installing Gauge Set Manifold" (Paragraph 3) and "Charging System" (Paragraph 9), but eliminate those steps involving scale.

â&#x20AC;˘

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

440

suction service valves are fully back-seated (counterc l o c k w i s e ) . Connect an eight foot test hose to gauge set manifold center fitting. Insert the free end of an eight foot hose into exhaust suction system and turn exhaust system blower on. Expelling t h e g a s into the exhaust system is r e c o m m e n d e d s a f e t y precaution. (3) Open discharge and suction service valves one turn. (4) Crack manifold gauge set discharge hand valve a fraction of a turn c o u n t e r - c l o c k w i s e to allow gas

Fig. 16â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Sight Glass Installed

(2) Start engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m. (3) Turn blower control switch to "High" position and temperature switch to "Cold." (4) Rotate both suction and discharge service valves one turn (clockwise). Where discharge gauge hand fluctuates (when engine is running), close discharge valve slowly (counter-clockwise) until gauge hand steadies. Charge through drier. (5) Refer to Figure 15 and install drier as indicated. (6) Open tank valve one turn. (7) Open suction valve on gauge manifold slightly (counter-clockwise. Control r e f r i g e r a n t e n t e r i n g system with this v a l v e . Do not a l l o w s u c tion p r e s s u r e to e x c e e d 6 0 psi. (8) Carefully watch sight glass, Figure 16. Close gauge manifold suction valve (clockwise) the moment sight glass is clear of bubbles. Stopping flow of refrigerant into system as soon as sight glass is clear (free of bubbles) is important. Too m u c h r e f r i g e r a n t i n system c a n c a u s e d a m a g e . (9) Operate system for five minutes and again observe sight glass for presence of bubbles. If there is still evidence of bubbles, continue to carefully charge until sight glass is clear, and repeat five minute run. Where no bubbles are present after five minutes of operation, charge system with an additional charge of refrigerant for 19 seconds. (10) Close tank valve and loosen hose connection at tank to gradually release gas from hose. Disconnect hose after gas has escaped. (11) Back-seat suction and discharge service valves

(counter-clockwise). (12) Remove gauge manifold and install service valve and service port protective caps.

DISCHARGING THE SYSTEM (1) Install gauge set manifold, Tool C-3354. (2) Using Tool C-3361, be sure both discharge and

to escape. Opening manifold discharge hand valve too much in order to more quickly discharge system will draw compressor lubricant off with the g a s . As pressure on manifold discharge gauge drops near zero, open manifold suction valve. If brazing or some similar repair is to be made on system, leave system open to atmospheric pressure. After service work has been completed, system must be evacuated, partially charged, and leak tested before final charge. 7.

EVACUATING AND SWEEPING SYSTEM

Whenever system has been open to atmosphere, it is absolutely essential that system be evacuated and swept with refrigerant to remove all air and moisture. To evacuate and sweep the system, proceed as follows: (1) Connect gauge set manifold, Tool C-3354, to compressor and condenser service valves. Discharge system (if not previously discharged), as outlined in Paragraph 6. B e s u r e t h e p r e s s u r e h a s d r o p p e d to z e r o before a t t a c h i n g h o s e to v a c u u m p u m p . (2) Connect an eight foot test hose to center fitting of gauge set manifold and to connection on vacuum pump (Tool C-3372). (3) Open both discharge and suction service valves about one turn, rotating both valve stems c l o c k w i s e . (4) Open both gauge set manifold hand valves (turn counter-clockwise). Start vacuum pump and observe compound gauge. Operate pump until gauge registers 26 to 28 inches of vacuum. Continue evacuating at 26 to 28 inches for five minutes. Failure to obtain 26 to 28 inches of vacuum indicates a leak in the system. Close both gauge set manifold hand valves (clockwise). Turn off vacuum pump and remove long test hose from pump. Charge system with refrigerant gas, as outlined in Paragraph 9. (5) Start engine and adjust speed to 1200 r.p.m. Turn blower control to "High" and temperature control to "Cold." Operate in this manner for five minutes and test for leaks. Discharge system to sweep out any remaining moisture, and again evacuate system at 26 to 28 inches of vacuum for 10 minutes. Recharge system with three pounds of refrigerant.

AIR CONDITIONING 8. MOISTURE IN AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM Moisture is directly or indirectly the cause of many failures in air conditioning systems. Moisture can be classified as visible and invisible. Visible moisture, such as rain, clouds, steam, etc., can be seen. Invisible moisture is water vapor which cannot be seen with the eye. It is in all solids, liquids and gases. It is in the air, and the varying amount is expressed in terms of relative humidity. Withdrawal of refrigerant from a system that is experiencing freeze-ups at the expansion valve, does not ordinarily reveal visible liquid water in the refrigerant, it is there however, in quantities sufficient to stop refrigeration. Moisture may enter the air conditioning system in the following manner: System left open during repair. Condensation in tubing, leaky seal caps, wet driers, unsealed charging hose or manifolds. Use of wet oil or refrigerant from improper handling. Charging system without drier. In order to be certain the moisture content of "Refrigerant 12" is kept out of the freeze-up range, acid producing and corrosion range, the moisture content should not exceed 10 PPM. The progressive result of moisture in excess of 10 PPM in "Refrigerant 12" is as follows: "Refrigerant 12" plus excess moisture equals freezeups at expansion valve. "Refrigerant 12" plus excess moisture equals acid (Hydrochloric and Hydrofluoric). Acid plus metals and refrigerant oil equals corrosive sludge. Corrosive sludge plus expansion valves equals sticky or stuck valves. Corrosive sludge plus screens and strainers equal plugged screens and strainers. Corrosive sludge plus compressor reed equals corroded and leaky valves. Removing Moisture From Tank Refrigerants such as "Refrigerant 12" are known as auto-driers. In a closed container, moisture tends to leave the liquid and concentrate in the vapor. A full tank of "Refrigerant 12" when received from the manufacturer, is as "dry" of moisture as the manufacturer can produce it. Yet it will still contain from 6 to 10 PPM moisture in the liquid phase. At room temperature, "Refrigerant 12" in the vapor phase (refrigerant gas above the liquid in a tank) can hold as much as seven times the amount of moisture as it does in the liquid phase. This means that starting with a full tank of "Refrigerant 12" containing 6 to 10 PPM moisture in the liquid phase, the vapor above the liquid can contain 42 to 70 PPM. As this vapor leaves the tank and is charged into the Air Conditioning System, the moisture enters the

441

system with the vapor. As more and more refrigerant vapor leaves the tank, more and more liquid refrigerant boils into a vapor and the vapor can extract a 7 to 1 ratio of moisture from the liquid remaining in the tank. By the time this full tank of "Refrigerant 12" is down to about half full of liquid, the remaining half tank of the refrigerant, liquid and vapor will be very dry, as all of the moisture originally contained in the full tank of liquid has been extracted by the vapor and charged into the Air Conditioning System. Caution: Always insist on delivery off refrigerant in unopened tanks. Do not accept tanks refilled by anyone other than the manufacturer, because of the possibility of the tank containing free water. For these reasons it is imperative (when charging a system) to pass the refrigerant vapor through an efíicient drier before it enters the Air Conditioning System. If this precaution is not taken, as much moisture may be induced back into the system as was removed during evacuation and sweeping. See Figure 15 for method of attaching Drier and Dry-Eye to tank assembly. Refer to "Charging System," Paragraph 9, for use of Drier and Dry-Eye equipment to eliminate moisture from system. Drier cartridges are available in 8, 12, 20 and 30 cubic inches. A 12 cubic inch cartridge is recommended for use with refrigerant tank. Make sure cartridge is sealed with white plastic seal cap when received. This cap is used to seal moisture from drier cartridge. Used drier cartridges can be re-activated when saturated with moisture, provided refrigerant oil has not flowed through the drier, by unsealing the cartridge and placing it in a heated oven for a given number of hours. For example, if the cartridge is placed in a 300 degree

DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE AT CONDENSER

MOISTURE DETECTING EYE CAPPED WITHOUT DRIER CARTRIDGE

SIGHT GLASS

•CONTAINER WITH COLD WATER 57 X 501

17—Moisture Detecting Eye (Schematic Drawing)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

442

oven, it should remain there for 2 hours, 1 ½ hours in a 400 degree oven, or 1 hour in a 500 degree oven, etc. After heating, allow the cartridge to cool, reseal with plastic cap and gasket, store in a dry area (at room temperature). Checking System For Moisture With tubing coil, sight glass, moisture detecting eye and cap made up into an assembly, as shown in Figure 18, remove valve step caps from suction and discharge service valves, back-seat and fully open (counterclockwise) both valves. Remove caps from valve service ports and attach tubing and flare fitting assembly to the valve service ports. Fill the container with cold water to allow for submersion of coil in water, as shown in Figure 17. Turn valve stem of discharge service valve two turns clockwise. Purge air from tubing by slowly loosening up the tubing nut at suction service valve. After all the air has been bled from tubing, retighten nut. Test all connections for leaks. Start engine and adjust engine speed to 1200 r.p.m. Open car windows and move the Air Conditioning operating lever to "Cold" position, and blower switch to "High." Slowly turn the valve stem of the suction service valve clockwise two full turns, and check sight glass (Figure 16), for flow of refrigerant liquid through glass. After approximately 15 to 20 minutes of engine operation (with liquid flowing through the moisture detecting eye) if the dot of the eye shows pink, excessive moisture is present in system. If system is "dry" or contains a minimum of moisture, the dot of eye will slowly change to light blue indicating the system contains 10 to 20 PPM of moisture. When dry eye shows a dark blue the same color a s corresponds to the dot on eye, it is indicative that system contains less than 10 PPM of moisture and is now ready for safe, satisfactory Air Conditioning operation. If

V SUCTION SERVICE VALVE ON COMPRESSOR

•DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE AT CONDENSER

moisture detecting eye shows pink, excessive moisture is present. Light blue will indicate the system is border line, and moisture content should be lowered. To remove the moisture detecting eye and tubing assembly, proceed as follows: With air conditioning system operating, back-seat first the discharge service valve, and then suction service valve counter-clockwise and stop engine. Remove tubing coil, sight glass, moisture detecting eye and cap assembly from suction and discharge service valves. Install protective flare plugs in end of tubing fitting to keep moisture and other foreign matter from entering tubing. Correcting a Wet Air Conditioning System (Without Discharging System) With tubing, 30 cubic inch drier cartridge and detecting eye made up into an assembly, as shown in Figure 18, proceed as follows: (1) Remove valve stem caps from suction and discharge service valves and fully back-seat (counterclockwise) both valves. (2) Remove caps from valve service ports. (3) Remove flare plugs from tubing and drier cartridge assembly and attach flare nuts or tubing to service nuts of tubing to service valves, as shown in Figure 18. E l e v a t e d r i e r a n d c a r t r i d g e a s s e m b l y a b o v e compressor h e i g h t to facilitate absorption. (4) Turn valve stem of discharge service valve two turns clockwise, and slowly loosen tubing nut at suction service port. (5) Purge air from tubing and drier. Retighten tubi n g nut after p u r g i n g air. (6) Test all connections for leaks and correct if needed. (7) Turn valve stem of suction service valve two

turns clockwise. With the vehicle located in a n area where the a i r conditioning system can maintain room temperature, allow vehicle to set for approximately 24 hours, or for sufficient time to allow the drier to absorb sufficient moisture. MOISTURE DETECTING EYE WITH DRIER CARTRIDGE

57 X 5 0 3

Fig. 18—Moisture Detecting Eye and Drier Cartridge Installation (Schematic Drawing)

When detecting eye has turned a d e e p b l u e , matching the comparison color dot on the dry eye unit, the system is now sufficiently dry to permit satisfactory air conditioning operation. The chemical action, involving a change from a moisture-laden refrigerant to non-moisture refrigerant, is as follows: The drier absorbs moisture from the refrigerant vapor. The vapor in turn absorbs moisture from the liquid refrigerant. In this conversion process, if the drier cartridge is allowed to remain in system long

AIR CONDITIONING

Fig. 19—Charging the System

enough, it will also partially reactivate or dry-out the system's saturated drier. To remove the drier cartridge, dry eye and tubing from compressor proceed a s follows: (8) Back-seat discharge and suction service valve stems (counter-clockwise). (9) Remove tubing, and drier cartridge assembly from suction and discharge service valves. Replace service port caps. (10) Install ílare plugs in tubing ends to seal out moisture. (11) Tighten all connections securely, and check compressor belts for correct tension.

9. CHARGING THE SYSTEM (Using Moisture Detecting Eye With Drier Cartridge) Refer to Figures 15 and 19, proceed as follows: (1) Assemble moisture detecting eye and drier cartridge to refrigerant tank. M a k e s u r e t h e a r r o w l o c a t e d o n " D r y - E y e " unit points i n direction of flow from tank. (2) Close refrigerant shut-off valve and o p e n refrigerant valve. (3) Purge air from drier by opening refrigerant tank shut-off valve for a few seconds. (4) Install ¼ inch cap on outer end of valve and tighten cap securely. Test a l l c o n n e c t i o n s with a l e a k d e t e c t o r torch to m a k e s u r e a l l c o n n e c tions a r e tight. (5) Open refrigerant tank valve and allow moisture detecting eye and tank assembly to be at rest, permitting the drier to absorb any excessive moisture that may be present in refrigerant liquid. Moisture d e tecting eye should change to a deep blue before attempting to charge or add refrigerant to the system. Otherwise replace drier. When Dry-Eye and Drier Cartridge assembly is coupled to a refrigerant tank for the absorption of

443

moisture, the window of the moisture detecting eye will show a color dot indication, such a s pink, if the refrigerant vapor in the charging tank is above 30 PPM of moisture. As the Drier Cartridge absorbs the excessive moisture content of the refrigerant, the moisture detecting eye will gradually change to a light b l u e , indicating a lower moisture content (10 to 20 PPM). The eye will change to a d e e p e r b l u e a s the vapor content is reduced. Refrigerant with a 10 PPM moisture content can be considered safe to use in the air conditioning system. (6) Connect an eight foot test hose to the center fitting of gauge manifold and to connection of refrigerant tank (Figure 19). Be sure both gauge manifold valves are fully closed ( c l o c k w i s e ) . (7) Open both discharge and suction service valves one turn ( c l o c k w i s e ) , if not previously done. If discharge gauge hand fluctuates when engine is running, close discharge valve slowly ( c o u n t e r - c l o c k w i s e ) until gauge hand steadies. Use "Charge through Drier." Refer to Figure 19 and install drier, as indicated. (8) Open valve on tank one turn and loosen the eight foot test hose at gauge manifold. Leave connection loose for about a second to purge air from hose. (9) Start engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m., with blower control set to "High" and temperature control set at "Cold." (10) Set tank upright in pail of warm water. The temperature of warm water must not exceed 125 degrees F. Set pail and tank on scale (Tool C-3429) and weigh assembly. Make note of combined weight. It i s a b s o lutely essential that accurate scale, such as Tool C-3429. be used. Bath scales are not accurate below 100 pounds. (11) Open suction valve on gauge manifold slightly ( c o u n t e r - c l o c k w i s e ) . Control refrigerant entering system with this valve. Do NOT a l l o w suction p r e s s u r e t o e x c e e d 6 0 psi. Be sure both discharge and suction pressure service valves are open about one turn (clockwise). Carefully watch scale and shut tank valve off when system has absorbed three pounds. If partial charge is desired for testing leaks, charge system with refrigerant gas charge until 100 pounds pressure is reached on discharge pressure gauge. (12) Close suction valve on gauge manifold (clockwise). To disconnect tank, loosen eight-foot test hose, allow refrigerant in hose to escape slowly, and remove hose from tank.

10.

TESTING THERMAL SWITCH

The thermal switch is adjustable. When adjusting the switch, use eccentric slot located on side to adjust in a clockwise direction for "Cold" or counter-clockwise direction for "Warm." When midway between "Cold" and

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL 11.

TESTING FOR PROPER SUPER HEAT

To test evaporator expansion valve for super heat, make sure the air conditioning system is dry and fully charged with "Refrigerant 12". Use a moisture detecting eye to check system for being dry. Make a compressor capacity check and check all the other components for proper working condition. (1) Install thermometer in evaporator, as outlined in "Testing Thermal Switch", Paragraph 10. (2) Start engine and adjust speed to 1200 r.p.m. (3) Turn toggle switch to cooling position. Then, place control lever in "Cold" position. This will close fresh air door and open recirculation door, allowing sufficient heat from engine to enter fresh air door slots to load the evaporator. (4) To assure sufficient heat from engine F¡g. 20—Checking Thermal Switch (Typical View) compartment entering the fresh air door slots, place a small mat or cardboard over the ' the temperature setting will be opening between the hood and the body. This "Normal/' which is the standard factory will direct the hot air into the cowl vent. Turn setting. blower switch to high. Open car windows. Feel the Check air conditioning system for being fully heater water valve to make sure no hot water is flowing charged. Refer to "Checking Refrigerant by Sight Glass through heater core. Method." Paragraph 5. (5) After operating engine for 10 minutes to allow (1) Remove thermometer hole plug from lower left system to normalize, take reading of suction gauge presside of evaporator heater housing. To insure a good sure, and check evaporator thermometer temperature. thermal contact with suction line well, apply coating The method used to determine whether the of about ¾f) of an inch of non-hardening graphite-alumiproper amount of refrigerant is metered into num compound to bulb of thermometer. the evaporator coils is to determine the num(2) Insert thermometer bulb through hole in evaporaber of degrees of super heat the vapor has abtor housing into well of suction line (Figure 20). With sorbed in the coils. The specifications are 8 cloth, sponge rubber, or other material, tightly seal the to 15 degrees super heat. It is calculated for hole opening between thermometer and heater housing. (3) Attach one lead of test light. Tool C-744, to the all models as follows: See Example Chart for Determining super heat. compressor circuit and the other lead to ground. Observe suction pressure at gauge and obtain the Position test light where its function can be observed nearest temperature corresponding to this pressure from readily when reading thermometer. Temperature-Pressure Relation Chart. From the ob(4) Start engine and adjust engine speed to 1200 served temperature reading on thermometer in evapor.p.m. rator, subtract 5 degrees to compensate for thermometer (5) Place toggle control switch on "Cooling," and connection error and suction line pressure drop. The move the air conditioning control lever to "Cold." When temperature difference between the suction pressure the controls are located in these positions, the test light temperature relation and the corrected evaporator temshould light. perature should not be less than 8 degrees nor more (6) Turn the blower switch to "Low." Close all winthan 15 degrees super heat. dows and allow thermal switch to cycle a few times, indicated by test light going on and off. Check h e a t e r 12. TESTING ELECTRICAL SWITCHES AND water valve for being cold (no hot water CONTROL CIRCUITS should be flowing through heater core). Refer to Figure 21 and proceed a s follows: The following specifications indicate the opening and (1) With test light, Tool C-744, located on windshield. closing degrees of the thermal switch:

Open 34°-j-2°

WARM

COLD

NORMAL

Close 37°+2°

Open

30°+2c

Close 34°+2c

Open

42°-f2°

Close 45°+2°

AIR CONDITIONING

445

EXAMPLE OF CHART FOR DETERMINING SUPER HEAT

Observed Suction Pressure at Gauge

Temperature Relation of Suction Pressure

Observed Thermometer Temperature at Evaporator

Corrected Evaporator Thermometer Temperature, 5 Degrees Subtracted

Super Heat

26° 32° 38° 43°

41° 47° 53° 58°

36° 42° 48° 53°

10° 10° 10° 10°

25 30 35 40

lbs. lbs. lbs. lbs.

NOTE: Subtracting "B" from "D" will equal super heat at "E". TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELATION CHART FOR REFRIGERANT 12

Temp. F.

Press, of Refrig.

Temp. F.

Press, of Refrig.

Temp. F.

Press, of Refrig.

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

9.1 10.1 11.2 12.3 13.4 14.6 15.8 17.1 18.3 19.7 21.0 21.7 22.4 23.1 23.8 24.6 25.3 26.1 26.8 27.6 28.4 29.2 30.0 30.9 31.7 32.5 33.4 34.3 35.1 36.0 36.9 37.9 38.8

43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66

39.7 40.7 41.7 42.6 43.6 44.6 45.6 46.6 47.8 48.7 49.8 50.9 52.0 53.1 55.4 56.6 57.1 57.7 58.9 60.0 61.3 62.5 63.7 64.9 66.2 67.5 68.8 70.1 71.4 72.8 74.2 75.5 76.9

76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108

78.3 79.2 81.1 82.5 84.0 85.5 87.0 88.5 90.1 91.7 93.2 94.8 96.4 98.0 99.6 101.3 103.0 104.6 106.3 108.1 109.8 111.5 113.3 115.1 116.9 118.8 120.6 122.4 124.3 126.2 128.1 130.0 132.1

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42

67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75

Temp. F.

109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140

Press, of Refrig.

135.1 136.0 138.0 140.1 142.1 144.2 146.3 148.4 151.2 152.7 154.9 157.1 159.3 161.5 163.8 166.1 168.4 170.7 173.1 175.4 177.8 182.2 182.6 185.1 187.6 190.1 192.6 195.2 197.8 200.0 209.2 205.5

446

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL (7) Move control lever to "Warmer" position (test lamp should be out)—recirculation door closed, fresh air door open. Move control lever back to "Off" position. (8) Re-locate test light, attaching one lead to water valve element circuit and the other lead to ground. With toggle switch in "Cold" position and control lever in "Off" position (test lamp should be off). (9) Move control lever to "Cold" position (test lamp lights dimly). (10) Move control lever to "Warmer" position (test lamp should increase from dim to bright as resistance is decreased in rheostat. (11) Feel the water valve element. Valve element should go from warm to hot as control lever is moved to the "Warmer" position. (12) Check the three blower motor connections for being tight in connector. Tighten if necessary.

13. PRECAUTIONS TO OBSERVE IN HANDLING TUBING Cleanliness During Installation A piece of tubing that has been cut flared and prepared for installation should be clean and dry.

57x760

Fig. 2 1 —Testing Control Circuits attach one end of lead to solenoid valve terminal, and the other to ground. (2) Start engine and adjust engine speed to 1200 r.p.m. (3) Turn toggle switch to "Cool" position. Move air conditioning control lever to "On" position. With lever located in this position test lamp should light (recirculation door open, fresh air door closed). With control lever to "Cold", position test lamp should light (recirculation door open, fresh air door closed). (4) With control lever to "Warmer" position, test lamp should not light (recirculation door closed, fresh air door open). (5) Turn toggle switch to "Heat" position and control lever to "Off" position (test lamp should —recirculation door open, fresh air door closed. (6) Move control lever to "Cold" position (test should now be out)—recirculation door closed, air door open.

move light) lamp fresh

Cutting and Flaring Use Tool C-3478 to cut, eliminate burrs, and ream tubing. The tube should be double-flared with tool. Always inspect flared joint before installation to determine if there are any cracks or blemishes on flare that would cause a possible leak. Copper washers must be used where joint is steel-to-steel, or steel-to-brass, or bross-to-bras$. Copper-tosteel or brass requires no washer. Use refrigerant oil on flared surface connections when installing or repairing leaky tube connections to improve sealing and reduce torque required. Never use any sort of sealing compound between tube flare and male surface. Copper tubing must be attached to car structure. Brazing the Joints Discharge system before using a torch to braze leaking joints. Avoid excessive heat when using an acetylene flame to solder or braze a joint. The usual precautions should be followed before repairing a sweat-type joint, such as cleaning thoroughly, applying sufficient flux, heating to temperature that will cause silver solder to flow freely, and testing joint after making repairs. 14. MEASURING COMPRESSOR OIL LEVEL If the oil level is checked immediately after a long, fast trip, the oil level will be slightly lower than normal.

AIR CONDITIONING (1) Locate the air condition operating lever on "Cold", blower "High", toggle switch "Cool", car windows open. (2) Start engine and operate at 1200 r.p.m. for about 10 minutes to return any excessive oil in system to compressor crankcase. (3) Stop engine and remove protective caps from discharge and suction service valves. Close both valves by turning valve stems c l o c k w i s e with Tool C-3361 until valves are seated firmly. T h e e n g i n e s h o u l d n e v e r b e started with t h e d i s c h a r g e or suction s e r v i c e v a l v e closed. (4) Clean area around the compressor filler plug and discharge service valve port cap with solvent and blow dry with compressed air. (5) Carefully loosen the flare cap fitting of the discharge service valve one-quarter of a turn and gradually release or purge the gas pressure from the compressor. (6) When the pressure in the compressor is completely purged', loosen (do not remove) the oil filler plug on the side of the compressor just enough to allow the gas pressure (if any) in the crankcase to escape. (7) When the pressure has been released, remove filler plug and use a clean dry plunger type dipstick (½ inch round or similar rod) to measure the oil level. The correct oil level is from ¾ " to 1". If necessary, add MOPAR air conditioning compressor oil (300 Saybolt at 100 degrees F.), as required, or siphon off excess oil, if necessary. (8) After oil level has been checked and corrected, replace the filler oil plug. (9) To purge air out of the compressor cylinder and crankcase, make sure cap on the discharge valve service port is loosened approximately one-half turn. (10) Using Tool C-3361, slightly open the suction service valve stem counter-clockwise. Let the gas drift slowly through the compressor for about 10 seconds. (11) Tighten cap on the discharge service port. Backseat both discharge and suction service valves by turning the valve stems counter-clockwise. (12) Replace protective caps on the discharge and suction service valves and tighten securely.

15.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF AIR CONDITIONING UNIT

Removal Should it become necessary to remove the air conditioning unit for servicing, proceed as follows: (1) From inside the passenger compartment, remove the hydraulic actuator, bracket, and operating linkage (as necessary). (2) Drain anti - freeze from radiator. Remove air cleaner.

447

(3) Remove ignition distributor cap and base assembly, if necessary. (4) Disconnect upper and lower hot water heater hose from evaporator cover outlet. (5) Disconnect blower motor wires. (6) Remove blower to dash attaching screws, including blower motor ground wire to dash. Remove blower and assembly. (7) Remove evaporator drain connector and hose. (8) Remove air conditioner evaporator cover to dash attaching bolts, and remove cover assembly. (9) Remove thermal switch leads. (10) Discharge air conditioning system, as outlined in Paragraph 6. (11) Disconnect suction and liquid line and seal fittings. (12) Remove the remaining evaporator housing flange to dash screws and remove evaporator by depressing fresh air door with screw driver as evaporator is rolled out of dash pocket. Whenever the air conditioning unit is removed from car, cooling coil fins should be cleaned and the water outlet drains should be checked for being open before reinstalling.

Installation (Refer to Figure 22) (1) Install unit in the reverse order of removal. Evacuate, sweep and charge the system, a s indicated in Paragraph 7. (2) Install blower and heater hoses. (3) Check system for leaks, the man belt for proper tension and make certain radiator contains sufficient coolant.

16. REMOVAL OF HEATER CORE (With Evaporator Housing Reríioved) (1) Remove heater core to evaporator housing attaching screws. (2) Carefully slide core assembly to left and remove core.

17. REPLACEMENT OF RECEIVER STRAINER-DRIER (See Figure 23) Wherever the receiver strainer-drier unit is plugged and has to be removed from car, proceed as follows:

Removal (1) Discharge system, as outlined in Paragraph 6. CAUTION: Protect e y e s with g o g g l e s b e f o r e d i s c o n n e c t i n g r e c e i v e r flare c o n n e c t i o n s . (2) Disconnect flared connections at both ends of receiver liquid lines. (3) Remove attaching bolt nuts from bracket and remove receiver. Cap open lines if new receiver is not to be installed immediately. Leave caps on connectors until ready to install.

448

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL BLOWER MOTOR

SOLENOID SWITCH COWL VENT INTAKE

HOUSING CONNECTOR HEATER ATTACHING SCREWS

HEATER OUTLET TUBE .EVAPORATOR DRAIN TUBE PLENUMCHAMBER DRAIN TUBES SUÇTIO^JNE FITTINGS DISCHARGE LINE FITTING 57x631

Fig. 22—Heater-Air Conditioning Unit Installed (Typical View)

Installation (1) Position receiver in place, install bracket attaching bolts, and tighten nuts securely. (3) Charge system with partial charge and test for leaks. Correct any leaks and evacuate system, a s outlined in Paragraphs 4 and 7. (4) Charge with three pounds of refrigerant, a s outlined in Paragraph 9.

18. REPLACEMENT OF RECEIVER STRAINERDRIER FUSIBLE PLUG Under normal conditions, it is not n e c e s s a r y to r e p l a c e t h e r e c e i v e r strainer-drier fusible plug. (1) Remove receiver strainer-dried assembly as outlined in Paragraph 17 under "Removal". (2) After removing plug, apply refrigerant oil to threads of new plug and install in receiver. Tighten to 20 foot-pounds. N e v e r r e p l a c e a d a m a g e d fusible p l u g with a p i p e p l u g . (3) Reinstall receiver strainer-drier as outlined in Paaragraph 17, under "Installation".

19. REMOVAL OF EXPANSION VALVE Removal (1) Disconnect the ¾ inch and ½ inch line flare fittings. Use two flare wrenches to loosen or tighten fittings. Remove the valve control bulb. Cap or plug open lines to prevent moisture from entering system.

Installation ;57x761¿ Fig. 23—Receiver Strainer-Drier Installed

(1) Reinstall expansion valve, control bulb, and equalizer lines in the reverse order of removal. (2) Tighten all connections securely, and sweep and charge system, a s indicated in Paragraphs 7 and 9.

AIR CONDITIONING

449

AIR CONDITIONING GAUGE SET MANIFOLD

TURN

COUNTER-CLOCKWISE WIDE OPEN

TRANSMISSION THROTTLE PRESSURE GAUGE

ADJUST TO A N D MAINTAIN 7 0 P.S.I.

MOISTURE DETECTING E Y E

EXPANSION VALVE ON TEST

EQUALIZER CONNECTION

MOISTURE DETECTING EYE DRIER CARTRIDGE

TO SOURCE OF DRY AIR SUPPLY 90 TO 250 P.S.I.

57 X 500

r¯\

CONTAINER WITH ICE a WATER

COMPRESSOR CAPACITY TEST ORIFICE CAP (.020" BLEED HOLE)

-SENSING BULB

F¡g. 24—Testing Expansion Valve (Unit Removed From Car)

20.

TESTING EXPANSION VALVE (Refer to Figure 24)

Equipment Required (1) Source of dry air 90 to 250 psi. (2) Moisture detecting eye with drier cartridge (save white plastic cap). (3) Air Conditioning gauge set manifold. (4) Transmission throttle pressure gauge. (5) Compressor capacity test cap with .020 inch bleed hole. (6) Container with ice and water to hold temperature at 32 degrees F. ¼ inch copper tubing and fittings. Test Procedure (1) Direct source of dry air, 90 to 250 psi. through moisture detecting eye with drier cartridge attached to insure against any moist vapors or particles of dirt entering the valve. (2) With the left hand shut-off valve on gauge set manifold closed and the right hand valve open, the right hand gauge will indicate the pressure of the air supplied. Slowly open the left hand shut-off valve (counter-clockwise) until the left gauge indicates 70 psi. (3) Immerse the expansion valve sensing bulb into the water and ice bath (32 degrees F.). (4) With the expansion valve inlet pressure gauge (left hand gauge) reading 70 psi.ƒ the sensing bulb completely submerged in the 32 degree F. water bath, and the compressor test cap bleeding off pressure, the outlet pressure gauge should read between 23 and 26 psi.

(5) Remove sensing bulb from water bath and warm bulb in hand. With expansion valve inlet pressure still reading 70 psi. (adjust if necessary), the outlet pressure should rise to a pressure of not less than 53 psi. If the expansion valve successfully passes these tests, it may be considered to have the proper superheat setting, a proper pressure limit value, the rated capacity and that it has not lost its thermal charge. The valve should, therefore, give satisfactory performance. If the expansion valve fails to pass either items No. 4 or No. 5, it should be rejected. 2 1 . COMPRESSOR The compressor, is the two cylinder reciprocating type unit. Compressor Lubrication Lubrication is by a combination of splash and centrifugal pressure. Compressor Valves The discharge and suction valves, as shown in Figure 25, are enertia type reed valves with both the suction and discharge ports in one valve plate. The valve plate is located between the cylinder head and the cylinder block. Crankcase Oil Check Valve A small self-energizing check valve is located in the oil return passage between the suction manifold and the crankcase. The oil that is entrained in the refrigerant is separated from the refrigerant in the manifold due to

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

450 CYLINDER HEAD

SUCTION VALVES

Fig. 25â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Compressor Valves (Typical View)

a sudden decrease in velocity. The oil flows through the return passage, opens the check valve and flows into the crankcase. Another function of the check valve is to reduce the amount of oil pumped out of the compressor after a prolonged idle period. Oil and "Refrigerant 12" are miscible in each other and during such periods the oil in the crankcase absorbs some refrigerant. When the compressor is started, following a long idle period, the check valve is closed to a small orifice by crankcase pressure so that pressure will reduce slowly. The slow reduction of crankcase pressure minimizes foaming of the oil and consequently oil pumping. Service Valves Due to the fact that it may be necessary to remove the compressor for compressor or engine service and also to provide means for connecting test equipment, two service valves are provided. The suction service valve is attached to the inlet side of the compressor. The discharge service valve is connected in the discharge tube at the inlet side of the condenser. Rotating the valve stems in a counter-clockwise direction, until the valves are fully open, is the operating position. This position also isolates the service ports for connecting test equipment. Rotating the valve stems clockwise* until the valve

are fully closed, isolates the compressor from the system. 22. SERVICING THE COMPRESSOR The following component parts of the compressor are available for service only. Replacement of compressor unit valve plate assemblies, suction service valve, cylinder head, gaskets, shaft seal, and support brackets. The compressor refrigerant oil may be replaced or corrected to the proper level. Any damage to the pistons, cylinders, crankshaft or connecting rods, requires replacement of the complete compressor assembly. 23.

REPLACING COMPRESSOR (OIL LEVEL PRECAUTION) New compressors are shipped fully equipped with the exception of the drive pulley and magnetic clutch assembly. The compressors are charged with treated dry air to prevent air moisture or dirt from entering and contain 12 ounces of 300 Say bolt refrigerant oil. When replacing a compressor, for any reason, it is imperative that the oil level in the compressor be corrected to the proper amount. Even though the old compressor had no oil when removed, some oil may still be in the rest of the system. When an old compressor is found to have no oil, or where oil level is very low or is too high; the oil in the new compressor must be siphoned off to the mini-

AIR CONDITIONING mum level of ¾ inch. Then, after the installation is completed the system should be operated for ten minutes, the engine shut down and the oil level checked and adjusted from ¾ to one inch if required. (Use a suction gun to remove oil if too high level.) This procedure should be repeated several times until level remains at ¾ inch to one inch. CAUTION: When working on the air conditioning system under pressure, protect your eyes with goggles (C3355) or glasses, so no serious damage can result. To correctly measure oil level of compressor, refer to Paragraph 14. Rotating the valve stem clockwise from the open position also opens the service port to supply pressure to the gauges. Magnetic Clutch The magnetic clutch, shown in Figure 26, is provided in the compressor drive pulley. The clutch consists of a spring loaded drive plate that is attached to the compressor crankshaft. The electromagnet coil is mounted in the pulley with the ends of the coil connected to separate brush or collector rings. Hinged type brush holders hold the brushes against the collector rings. When the electromagnet is not energized, the pulley assembly free-wheels on a double-row ball bearing. When the electromagnet is energized, the plate is magnetically attracted to the electromagnet and the compressor crankshaft is then coupled to the drive pulley. The magnetic clutch can be engaged at any engine speed without damage. Installing Compressor (1) Set new compressor, with full factory oil level, on the mounting bracket and install the bolts, lockwashers and nuts. Tighten evenly to 20 foot-pounds. (2) Adjust compressor drive belt tension to 15 footpounds with Tools C-3379 and C-3005. Generator mounting bolts must be loosened and tension held to 15 pounds while bolts are retightened. (3) Connect flared tubes to compressor connectors

using two wrenches. Use n e w copper washers in flared connections. (4) Install manifold gauge set, Tool C-3354, and attach an eight foot test hose to gauge manifold center fitting and to vacuum pump. (Refer to Paragraph 3). (5) Evacuate and sweep the system as outlined in Paragraph 7. During the time that the sweep charge is in the system, test for leaks as outlined in Paragraph 4. Then, continue evacuation procedure after eliminating any leaks found. (6) Charge system with 3 pounds of "Refrigerant 12" as outlined in Paragraph 9.

451

DRIVE PLATE AND FACING ASSEMBLY ELECTROMAGNET BEARING SNAP RINGS

BELT GROOVES BEARING DRIVE PLATE SNAP RING 57x588 Fig. 2 6 — M a g n e t i c Clutch a n d Drive Pulley

(Exploded View)

(7) Operate system for 20 minutes (engine running at 1200 rpm.), blower control set at "High" and temperature control at "Cold." (8) Stop engine and check oil level, as outlined in Paragraph 14. (9) Rotate discharge and suction service valve stems c l o c k w i s e until fully back-seated. (10) Remove gauge set manifold and replace protective caps.

24.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF COMPRESSOR FOR ENGINE OR COMPRESSOR SERVICE Removal (1) Start engine and operate at a fast idle until compressor is warm. Then, shut off engine. (2) Remove valve stem protective caps from both the discharge and suction service valves. (3) Close off both valves by rotating both valve stems c l o c k w i s e with ratchet, Tool C-3361, until valves are fully seated. (4) Loosen the port caps on both discharge and suction service valves a couple of turns to gradually release the gas pressure from the compressor. Loosen oil filler plug a few turns. (5) Remove the drive belts. (6) Disconnect the magnetic clutch electrical leads. (7) Disconnect discharge tube flared connection at discharge valve fitting. (8) Remove screws from suction service valve. (9) Remove screws from discharge service valve. (10) Remove compressor to support and mounting bracket attaching bolts. CAUTION: B e careful not

to bend the vibration eliminator too much or it will be damaged. (11) lift compressor from engine and place on blocks on bench or allow clutch and pulley assembly to hang over edge of bench. Cover compressor inlet and outlet

452

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ports on suction and discharge service valves with masking tape. Installation (1) Remove the masking tape from the suction and discharge service valves and compressor inlet and oulet ports. (2) Lower the compressor on bracket, install attaching bolts and tighten evenly from 20 to 25 foot-pounds. (3) Slide refrigerant oil coated suction and discharge service valve gaskets between valve bodies and compressor. Install screws and tighten 15 to 20 foot-pounds. (4) Install screws and gasket in compressor inlet and outlet ports. (5) Adjust compressor drive belt tension to 15 footpounds using Tools C-3379 and C-3005. Generator mounting bolts must be loosened and tension held to 15 pounds when bolts are retightened. (6) Install magnetic clutch electrical leads. (7) Open suction service valve (counter-clockwise) for an instant and then tighten the oil filler plug. Crack suction gauge set hand valve for an instant to purge air. Then, after closing suction gauge set hand valve, open the discharge service valve (counterclockwise) slightly. Crack discharge gauge set hand valve for an instant to purge air from discharge side of compressor. (8) Be sure the gauge set hand valves are fully seated (clockwise) then, rotate both the suction and discharge valve stems (counter-clockwise) until they are fully back-seated. (9) Start engine, turn on blower and temperature control switches. Operate engine at 1200 rpm for five minutes, then, stop engine and test for leaks as outlined in Paragraph 4. (10) Test system for operation. If satisfactory remove gauge set. 25.

REPLACING COMPRESSOR VALVE PLATE ASSEMBLY (See Figure 25) The usual indication of defective or damaged compressor valves is a lack of cooling capacity. Before condemning valves they should be tested as follows: Testing Valves (1) Install gauge set on compressor, refer to Paragraph 3. (2) Start engine, turn on blower and temperature switches to High and Cold. Operate for 10 or 15 minutes at 1200 rpm to warm up compressor so that the crankcase is free of excessive refrigerant saturation. (3) Slow engine speed to idle and rotate suction service valve stem clockwise until the valve is fully front seated. CAUTION: Never front seat (clockwise) discharge service v a l v e while e n g i n e is running or compressor will be d a m a g e d . (4) Observe suction gauge on gauge set. The pres-

sure should drop to zero when valve is seated and on down from 15 to 20 inches of vacuum within one minute if the suction valves are in good condition. Replace valve plate assembly if defective. (5) Shut off engine while watching the gauge. The vacuum should not lose over five inches in three minutes if the discharge valves are in good condition. If when the engine is stopped the gauge hand jumps a few inches the valves are defective and should be replaced. Replace the complete valve plate assembly. Replacing Valve Plate Assembly (Gauge Set Installed) (1) Rotate the discharge and suction service valve stems clockwise until both valves are fully front seated. (2) Slowly open the discharge gauge set hand valve slightly to relieve compressor pressure through the center outlet hose and into an exhaust suction system. (3) When pressure drops to zero on discharge gauge, open suction pressure gauge, set hand valve. (4) Remove compressor as outlined in Paragraph 24. (5) Remove cylinder head bolts and tap the cylinder head with a plastic hammer. If, when lifting the cylinder head, the valve plate does not come off with it, separate the head from the plate by placing a brass rod against the plate and head between cylinders at the side of the head and tapping it. DO NOT tap the plate near a finished surface. (6) Remove head, valve plate and gaskets. Examine the valves, if the valves are broken, and the parts have damaged the top of the piston or scored the cylinders replace the complete compressor. (7) If compressor is not damaged clean cylinder block top and cylinder head thoroughly. Be sure to remove all shreds from old gaskets. (8) Install the cylinder head bolts in the head. Place a piece of cardboard over the bolt heads and turn assembly upside down. Lay on the bench with bolts facing up. Handle n e w gaskets carefully as they a r e fragile. Dip n e w gaskets in c l e a n refrigeration oil. (9) Place the cylinder head gasket, then the valve plate, and last, the valve plate gasket over the bolts. (10) Lift the cardboard, turn assembly over and place the entire assembly carefully on the cylinder block and start bolts. Tighten bolts evenly (from the center out) from 15 to 20 foot-pounds. (11) Install compressor as outlined in Paragraph 24. 26.

COMPRESSOR SHAFT SEAL REPLACEMENT (See Figure 27) Removal (1) Operate the engine at 1200 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes until compressor is warmed up and system is stabilized. (2) Remove compressor from engine. Refer to Paragraph 24.

AIR CONDITIONING

453

GASKET

END PLÀTE

CARBON STEEL BELLOWS

SNAP RING

55 x 154

Fig. 27—Oil Seal Assembly (Exploded View)

(3) Remove the self locking bolt from the compressor crankshaft, at front end center of pulley. (4) Tap the pulley and clutch assembly with a soft hammer to free it from tapered shaft. While holding assembly with the other hand, remove assembly from shaft. CAUTION: Do not d a m a g e brushes w h e n r e m o v i n g or installing clutch. If brushes a r e a l l o w e d to s n a p to full travel they will b r e a k . (5) Remove brush holder assembly. (6) Remove the compressor front bearing end plate, then install puller. Tool C-3473, as shown in Figure 28. Screw in on the alignment screws until inner steps on the puller contact the bellows evenly. (7) Hold the compressor shaft by inserting screwdriver in shaft keyway and resting against puller leg while turning the puller screw, as shown in Figure 29. ¢8) Compress the bellows sufficiently to expose retaijiing snap ring. Now, remove snap ring. ¢9) Change puller screw in center of puller, as shown

55x169

Fig. 29—Removing Seal (Typical View)

in Figure 30. Remove the front bearing end plate and seal by turning the center screw on puller. (10) Remove carbon seal and "O" ring from the bearing end plate. Installation (1) Coat new bearing end plate gasket and large "O" ring with refrigerant oil, then install "O" ring in the plate. Install gasket, and end plate, then insert two long screws at opposite sides of plate. B e s u r e that t h e oil p o c k e t is " u p . " (2) Start end plate squarely and tighten screws evenly (finger tight). Install puller as shown in Figure 28. Again holding compressor shaft with screwdriver, pull bearing end plate into housing, as shown in Figure 31. Remove puller and install screws. Tighten evenly from 15 to 20 foot-pounds. (3) Coat the carbon seal with refrigerant oil and place over shaft with the tangs in the recesses of the end plate.

>5xl57 T

Fig. 28—Puller, Tool C-3473 Installed (Typical View)

Fig. 30—Removing Bearing End Plate (Typical View)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

454

AIR GAP ADJUSTING SCREWS

k `"-"¯"

TOOL

Fig. 31—Installing End Plate (Typical View)

Lubricate the "O" ring in the seal with refrigerant oil, then slide seal end snap ring over compressor shaft. (4) Install puller and compress the bellows. While compressing bellows, rotate to insure proper alignment. This will p r e v e n t pinching t h e "O" ring a n d resulting in a l e a k y s e a l . (5) Install snap ring when the bellows clear the groove in the shaft. Check to b e sure t h e s n a p ring is s e c u r e l y s e a t e d in t h e g r o o v e . Remove puller. (6) Install brush holder assembly. CAUTION: D o not d a m a g e brushes. Iff brushes a r e a l l o w e d to s n a p to full t r a v e l t h e y m a y b r e a k . (7) Install magnetic clutch and pulley assembly over shaft, lining up key and keyway. Push assembly over shaft and install washer and self-locking bolt. Tighten from 15 to 20 foot-pounds. (8) Install compressor as outlined in Paragraph 24. When new seals are first installed leaks are more noticeable than after system has operated and parts are worn in. 27. MAGNETIC CLUTCH (See Figure 2ó) Service to the magnetic clutch assembly is limited to the following parts: Drive plate, pulley and electromagnet assembly, snap rings and brush holder assembly. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to remove the electromagnet coil from the pulley assembly. The coil is held in place by a special adhesive material. Once this bond is broken the coil cannot be re-attached. Testing Electromagnet Current Draw To test the coil for a short circuit, connect an ammeter (0-10 Amp Scale) in series with a fully charged 12 volt battery and the insulated brush lead. The current draw at 12 volts should be 1.8 to 2.0 amperes.

AIR GAP 025 TO .035 INCH

- - ...7r=^·"

54x605

Fig. 32—Adjusting Magnetic Clutch Air Gap (Typical View)

Removing Clutch Assembly from Compressor (1) Loosen drive belts and remove from compressor pulley. (2) Remove special locking bolt and washer from compressor crankshaft at front center of clutch. CAUTION: DO NOT d a m a g e b r u s h e s w h e n r e moving or installing clutch. (3) While supporting clutch assembly with one hand, tap the pulley with a soft hammer to jar hub from tapered shaft and remove assembly from compressor. Removing and Installing Drive Plate (1) Remove drive plate retaining snap ring hub with Tool C-3301. (2) Place suitable sleeve against hub and remove drive plate by tapping against sleeve with a hammer. A sintered iron l i n e r i m p r e g n a t e d with fibrous m a t e r i a l is b o n d e d to t h e drive p l a t e . If this l i n e r is worn through, r e p l a c e drive p l a t e . (3) Inspect springs for loss of tension and/or cracks. Inspect liner on face of plate. Replace drive plate if liner is worn; springs are weak or broken or if drive plate is warped. Installation (1) Start drive plate hub squarely into inner bearing race. Place a brass drift against the drive plate inner hub and tap plate hub into bearing by tapping on brass drift with a hammer. (2) Install snap ring on drive plate hub. (3) Measure air gap between drive plate and electromagnet, as shown in Figure 32. Air gap should measure .025 to .035 inch. The air gap is adjusted by turning the screws located in the center of the three hexagon headed nuts on the front face of the drive plate. (See Figure 32.) Adjust all three screws *o obtain evenly spaced air gap. Measure air gap with a long feeler that will reach into gap at hub.

GAUGE SET MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY TOOL C-3354 THERMOMETER CLIPS C-3421

VACUUM PUMP ASSEMBLY TOOL C-3372

GOGGLES TOOL TEST HOSE LONG TOOL C-3366

TUBE BENDERS TOOL C-3362 FLARE NUT WRENCHES

TEST HOSES SHORT (2) TOOL C-3365 LEAK DETECTOR TORCH C«3444

TOOL C-3358 TOOL C-3363

COMPRESSOR PULLER RATCHET WRENCH TOOL C-3361

vf ^

TOOL C-3128 PLIERS

ö o

•`v TOOL C-3360 TUBE FLARING TOOL C-804

TOOL C-3369 ANGLE WRENCHES

CAPACITY TEST CAP TOOL

53x240B

TUBE CUTTER TOOL C-3478 FLARE REFACING TOOL C-3367 FREON CYLINDER ADAPTER C-3420

THERMOMETER SET TOOL C-3356

FREON WEIGHING SCALE C-3429 —

Fig. 33—Special Air Conditioner Tools

Uì

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

456

(3) Tap bearing from pulley assembly.

Removing Clutch Bearing (1) Remove drive plate as outlined previously. (2) Remove snap ring, at outer race of bearing, from pulley assembly.

(4) Install new bearing and snap ring. (5) Install drive plate as outlined previously.

BODY AND SHEET METAL CONTENTS

Par. Page

SERVICE INFORMATION Body Sealing Procedures Cleaning Interior Upholstery Doors, Hinges and Locks Fitting Doors General Information Hood, Hood Lock and Hinges Paint Finish Conditions Quarter Window Removal and Installation (4 door sedan and Suburban) Rear Window Glass Installation (All models except Convertible and Suburban) Rear Window Glass Removal (All models except Convertible and Suburban) Rear Window Removal and Installation (Tail-Gate Suburban) Removal of Front Door Latch and Remote Control Removal and Installation of Garnish Moulding Removal and Installation of Door Glass Removal and Installation of Inside Door and Window Regulator Handles Removal and Installation of Outside Door Handle Removal and Installation of Door Trim Panels Removal and Installation of Door Ventilator Removal and Installation of Window Regulator Removing and Installing Headlining Removing or Installing Front Fender Removing Windshield (All models) Replacing Glass Run Channel Sealing Compounds Servicing Convertible Coupe Top Servicing the Convertible Coupe Top Folding Mechanism Servicing the Front Door Window (Special Club Coupe, Convertible and Special Servicing the Vinyl Plastic Window (Convertible) Sliding and Stationary Glass (Suburban) Windshield Installation (All models) Windshield Weatherstrip

27 28 3 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 2 29 19 18 17 20 13 6 10 5 11 7 8 12 30 1 15 9 26 23 24 25 22 21 16 14

494 495 468 469 456 460 496 480 479 478 481 474 471 473 471 473 471 472 474 496 458 474 472 493 485 487 490 485 484 477 474

GENERAL INFORMATION Stamped steel panels welded together and strongly reinforced provide maximum rigidity and form the basic body structure of all the Dodge cars. (See Figure 1.) The roof panel is formed from a single sheet of steel and extends from the windshield frame opening to the rear belt line and includes a stamped opening for the rear window. The roof panel is solidly welded to the cowl "A" posts, "B" posts and rear quarter panels, as shown in Figure 1. The floor of the body is composed of three pieces of sheet steel with stamped reinforcing channels and beads to provide additional rigidity and relief from excessive

vibration. The floor pans are welded together and then welded to the cowl, side pillars and rear quarter panels. The "A," "B" and rear pillar posts are of the box and semi-box construction, with recesses for the concealed door hinges and locks. The pillar posts are securely welded to the roof panel at the top and the side sills and floor pan on the bottom. The body doors are of all steel construction and are rigidly braced and welded. The outside panel conforms to the body contour while the inner panel and frame provide mounting locations for the hardware, trim panels, window glass and door hinges.

457

BODY AND SHEET METAL ROOF

PANEL

REAR FLOOR PAN FIN A N D QUARTER PANEL

COWL VENT

COWEL PANEL FRONT FLOOR PAN 57x474

Fig. 1â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Typical 4 Door Sedan (Basic Body Construction)

In the rear compartment, a diagonal brace of steel is securely welded to the inside corner of the rectangle formed by the shelf panel, side panels and floor pan. The rear deck lid is of two piece construction with the inner and outer panels flanged joined and welded. The inner panel has sufficient cross bracing to obtain greater rigidity. The hood is drawn from a single sheet of steel and is formed to blend with the body contour. The hood is supported at the rear by two adjustable hinges and is held closed at the front by a manually operated latch and safety catch. Hood adjustment is provided for at the hinge mounting brackets. The front fenders are bolted to the body cowl, the radiator support and the splash shields. Adjustment or alignment of the front fenders to the hood and body is provided at the points of attachment. The splash shields extending from the frame side members to the fenders, prevents water, dirt and other foreign material from entering the engine compartment. Body Mounting Bolts

The body bolts extend from the reinforcing channels, located on the floor pan, through brackets welded to the frame side rails (with exception of the four bolts that hold the body at the rear crossmember and side rails. These bolts are accessible through the trunk com-

partment). On the suburbans, pry out plug in floor of rear compartment, near tire well. The lower retaining nut for each of the body mounting bolts may be reached from under the car (with exception of the four at the rear). These may be reached through the trunk compartment. Body Bolt Locationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;(See Figure 2)

Body Bolt Number 1 is located approximately 8 inches from the bottom edge of front wheel fender skirt and is fastened in a bracket mounted on the front of the cowl panel. This bolt can be reached from under the rear of the front fender splash shield. Body Bolt Number 2 is located below the front edge of the front door and can be reached by rolling the floor mat and padding back. The bolt will be found near the front door hinge pillar. Body Bolt Number 3 is located approximately 2 inches back from the rear door hinge pillar and can be reached from the rear seat compartment. Roll back floor mat slightly aft of center pillar to expose the four bolts. Body Bolt Number 4 is located beneath the leading edge of the rear fender moulding and is reached from the rear seat compartment. Remove the rear seat to expose head of bolt. Body Bolt Number 5 is located inside the trunk com-

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

458

No 1

No 2

No 3

No 4

No 5

No 6

57x473

FÂĄg. 2â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Body Mounting Bolt Locations (Typical)

partment near the spare tire mounting bracket, and on the other side directly opposite. B o d y Bolt N u m b e r 6 is located inside the trunk compartment at the extreme rear.

Torque Specifications The body mounting bolts should be tightened with a torque wrench, to the following specifications: All closed body models 15 foot-pounds and convertibles 20 foot-pounds. The exception to this, is the front mounting bolt (1) with steel spacer on convertible (18 min. to 27 foot-pounds). The rubber insulators should be compressed Âź inch (visually) by tightening body bolt.

Fenders and Splash Shields The front fenders on the new Dodge are rigidly mounted at the cowl panel and the radiator support. The splash shields are mounted at the upper flange of the front fenders and the radiator support. Any misalignment between fenders and hood, usually can be corrected by proper hood alignment. The rear fenders are an integral part of the rear quarter panel and are braced by reinforcing channels and built-in wheel houses. Should damage result to the rear fender, to the extent that body bumping could not restore the fender to its original condition, a new complete quarter panel should be installed.

SERVICE INFORMATION PROCEDURES 1.

REMOVING OR INSTALLING FRONT FENDER-(Refer to Figure 3)

(1) Remove the nuts that hold the head light and parking light lead terminals to terminal block on the front of radiator support. Lift the terminals off studs and feed wires back through splash shield. (2) Remove the bolts that attach either the right or left hand bumper to the frame (depending on side being worked on) and the bolt that attaches bumper to fender skirt. Slide bumper out and away from frame and stone shield. (3) Remove the bolts that attach the grille bar to the frame and the bolt that attaches grille bar to the fender skirt. When r e m o v i n g g r i l l e b a r , b e careful so a s not to s c r a t c h or m a r finish of f e n d e r s . (4) Remove the nuts that hold the trim moulding to the leading edge of the fender and fender tie bar. Remove clips, then slide moulding out and away from fender.

(5) Remove the bolts that attach the fender tie bar to fender and hood latch plate. Remove the bolts that attach the fender to stone shield and radiator support. (6) Remove the bolts that attach the splash shield to the fender and the nut and washer that attaches the front fender to the cowl bracket (stud may be removed to aid in disassembly). (7) Remove the nuts, bolts and washers that hold the lower rear portion of the fender to splash shield. (8) Remove the bolt and washer that holds the lower portion of the front fender to the rocker panel. (9) Open front door and remove the bolts, nuts and washers, that hold the fender to the hinge pillar just inside door opening. (10) Pull fender out at rear being careful not to scratch or mar the door panel. Now, lift slightly and disengage from stone shield, then lift fender out and away from car. If a new fender is to be installed, strip old fender of

BODY AND SHEET METAL

459

TAIL LIGHT

PLATE

GUARD

REFLECTOR

BACK-UP LIGHT EXTENSION REAR BUMPER

EXHAUST EXTENSIONS

GRILLE BAR PARKING A N D DIRECTION SIGNAL LIGHT PLATE CLIP MOULDING OUTER

HOOD CLIP MOULDING INNER

HEADLIGHT

FENDER TIE BAR

BUMPER RIGHT

MEDALLION

STONE SHIELD

CAPS

BUMPER LEFT 57×5O4

Fig. 3—Front and Rear End Parts Nomenclature

460

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

all useable material and install on new fender after painting. Before installing new fender it is suggested that door panel be suitably covered in order to protect finish during fender installation. (12) To install fender, raise rear of fender and allow front end to slide into position against stone deflector. Now, push fender in toward rear, then lift slightly to clear center bracket stud (if not removed). (13) Install bolts in same sequence a s removed but do not tighten. This will permit the fender to be shifted fore-or-aft for proper alignment. Lower the hood and check fender and hood alignment. Shift the fender forward, upward, downward or to rear until a proper fit has been obtained. Raise hood and tighten fender attaching parts. (14) Feed the headlight lead wire up through opening in fender splash shield. Slide grommet up wire and into opening in fender. Spread tangs to hold in position. Slide grille bar into position and engage with front fender. Install necessary nuts, bolts and washers then tighten securely. When installing the headlight and parking light lead wires, be sure the wires are placed on the terminal block in the following order, starting at the top: Brown to Brown, Green to Green, Yellow to Yellow, Red to Red, Black to Black. Removing and Installing Fender Splash Shield Should it become necessary to remove the front fender splash shield for replacement, proceed as follows: (1) Jack up front of car and remove right front wheel and tire. (2) Remove nuts and bolts that hold fender to hinge pillar (at the rear of fender). (3) Remove nuts, bolts and washers that attach splash shield to rear lower fender bracket. (4) Remove the two bolts and washers that hold splash shield to radiator support, (under fender). (5) Remove the five sheet metal screws and washers that attach fender to splash shield. If r e m o v i n g t h e left h a n d splash shield, it will b e n e c e s s a r y to d i s e n g a g e a n d r e m o v e battery, unclip t h e wire harness and r e m o v e l e a d wires that connect to starting motor solenoid. (6) Remove the four sheet metal screws that hold splash shield inspection plate to fender. Lift inspection plate out of engine compartment. (7) Remove the four bolts and washers that attach splash shield support bracket to radiator support. Lift splash shield support bracket out and away from car. (8) Now, lift rear of fender up slightly and pull out and away from body (approximately 6"). Support the fender in the position then pull splash shield out at rear, push down and back, then slide out from under car.

Fig. 4â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Hood Mounting and Hinge Sectors

When installing splash shield, slide shield under car and up into position. Install necessary bolts and nuts to hold shield in place, but do not tighten. Now, push fender back toward body, lift slightly and slide into position. Install nuts, bolts, sheet metal screws, but do not tighten. Check hood fender alignment a s described in fender installation. Now, tighten all attaching bolts and nuts securely. Reinstall and connect battery, reclip wire harness to shield and install lead wires to starting motor solenoid (if left hand splash shield was removed). If it is necessary to remove the stone deflector, for installation of a new part, remove the front bumpers, then proceed as follows: (9) Remove the bolts and nuts that attach the stone deflector to the front fenders, radiator support, and the stone deflector brace. (10) Lift stone deflector up and away from vehicle. When installing stone deflector and grille bar, use care so a s not to scratch or mar the painted surfaces of fenders or stone deflector. 2. HOOD, HOOD LOCK AND HINGES The hoods on both the six and eight open at the front and are hinged at the rear on each side. A counterbalanced arrangement consisting of two spring loaded hinges and sectors aid in opening and closing the hood or holding in an open position. A hook lock and safety catch hold the hood securely when in a closed position. The hood lock is manually operated and is located underneath the left leading edge of the hood, above the grille bar. To open hood, pull forward on lever far enough to allow hood to snap up to the safety catch. Push down slightly on hood, then trip the safety catch with the fingers to release hood.

BODY A N D SHEET METAL

461

Removing and Installing Hood Should it become necessary to remove the hood for engine removal and installation, refer to Figure 4, then proceed a s follows: (1) Raise the hood and remove three of the four nuts and washers that attach the hood to the hinge arms (both sides). Leave one nut and washer on each side finger loose. Before r e m o v i n g nuts, m a r k outline of h i n g e s o n hood, using a soft p e n c i l o r w a x c r a y o n . This will a i d i n hood a l i g n m e n t w h e n reinstalling. (2) Brace the hood in such a manner that the hood will not slide to the rear and damage the painted surface of the cowl or fenders. (3) After the hood is braced properly remove the last two nuts and washers. Lift hood up and away from car. When installing the hood, the same precautions a s taken above, should be followed. Lift the hood and slide into position, brace securely, then install the attaching nuts and washers. Just snug down. Do not tighten. Align hood with marks previously made, then tighten attaching nuts securely.

Adjusting the Hood As previously mentioned, two counterbalanced hinge and sector assemblies are used to attach the hood to the dash panel. The hood is attached to the hinge arm plates with 4 nuts (each side). Two of these nuts fasten the hinge to the hood side flanges while the other two nuts fasten the hinge arm plate to the rear hood strainer. AH the upper hinge mounting stud holes are elongated fore and aft, for hood adjustment (see Figure 5). The hood hinge mounting bolt holes in the dashpanel are elongated for up or down adjustment of the hood. (Refer to Figure 4.)

HOOD SIDE FLANGE NUTS

DIAGONAL STRAINER

Fig. 6â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Diagonal and Lateral Strainers

fxcess/ve Space Between Rear Edge of Hood and Cowl Panel To correct this condition, adjust a s follows: (1) Prop the hood open to relieve tension on the hinge springs. (2) Loosen the nuts that attach the hood to the hinge plate, move hood rearward until correct spacing has been obtained, then tighten attaching nuts securely and check fit of hood. (Refer to Figure 5). When moving the hood forward or backward, it is suggested that the hood latch adjustment be checked. D o n o t r e m o v e t h e prop from under the hood until the hood attaching nuts have been tightened.

Hood Binding at Cowl Panel To correct this condition, adjust hood a s follows: (1) Prop the hood open to relieve tension on the hinge springs. (2) Loosen the nuts that attach the hood to the hinge plate. Move hood forward until correct spacing has been obtained, then tighten attaching nuts securely and check fit of hood (Refer to Figure 5). When moving the hood forward or backward, it is suggested that the hood latch adjustment be checked. D o n o t r e m o v e t h e p r o p from under the hood until the attaching nuts have been tightened.

Unequal Spacing Between Rear of Hood and Fenders

57x518

Fig. 5â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Hood Attaching Nuts and Washers

To correct this condition, adjust a s follows: (1) Loosen the four hinge to hood attaching nuts on each side, as well as the two bolts attaching the diagonal strainers to the lateral strainer. (See Figure 6.) (2) Shift the hood (at rear) in the direction of the wide space, until spacing appears to be equal on each side. (3) Tighten the hinge to hood nuts and the strainer bolts, then lower hood to check adjustment.

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462

- TOOL SECTION

JACK

49x943 F¡g. 7—Section C-3007 Welded to Jack

If the spacing is correct on one side but too little or too much on the other side, loosen the nuts that attach hood to hinge and the diagonal strainer on the side to be adjusted. (If the hood needs to be moved out, insert a large screwdriver between the upper hinge plate and the hood flange. Force the hood out as required, then while holding pressure on screwdriver, tighten nuts and bolts securely. To move the hood in, apply pressure on the outside edge of hood, then tighten nuts securely. Lower hood to check the adjustment. When correct spacing has been obtained, tighten the diagonal strainer attaching bolts. Hood Fits Cowl Loosely To correct this condition, adjust hood as follows: (1) If one side of the hood fits the cowl loosely, while the other fits too tight, an adjustment of the strainers is required. (2) Loosen the two diagonal strainer bolts at the rear strainer and the nuts on each end of the rear strainer that fastens strainer to the retaining bolts. Equalizing the hood fit may result in the rear of the hood being higher than the cowl surface. If this happens, the hood can be made to conform to the contour of the cowl by bending the diagonal strainers. To bend the diagonal strainers, place an "S" hook over one of the strainers. Now slide a pry bar (about 30 inches long) through the lower opening of the "S" hook so that the end of the bar is hooked under the cowl. Pry .down gently on the strainers, then check the hood to cowl fit. Prying down on the diagonal strainer bends the rear lateral strainer which in turn, pulls down the contour of the rear edge of the hood. Hood Projects Beyond Front of Fender If the hood projects beyond the front fender, and the fender to door spacing is close, the fender can be shifted forward to correct this condition. The fender can be moved forward with a standard bumper jack, having a 10 ½ inch piece of steel welded to its base (See Figure 7.) To correct this condition, adjust a s follows: (1) Loosen the bolts that hold the front fender to the cowl side panel. (2) Place the extension end of jack against the hinge bracket on the side cowl panel, and the lifting lug of the jack against the upper section of the radiator support.

57x520

F¡g. 8—Hood Striker Adjustment

(3) Extend the jack carefully, checking the clearance between the rear edge of fender and the leading edge of the front door. When the spacing between the door and the fender is correct, and the hood is even with the front end of fender, tighten the fender to cowl bolts securely. (4) Remove jack and lower the hood. Excessive Space Between Leading Edge of Front Door and Edge of Fender To correct this condition, adjust a s follows: (1) Loosen the fender to cowl bracket stud nuts and the fender to cowl side panel bolts. (2) Install drawbar by hooking one end of bar over the hood hinge support bracket on the cowl and the other end over the radiator support. (3) Tighten the turnbuckle until the fender to door spacing is correct at the front pillar. Also, check to see if the front of the fender is flush with the front of the hood. When the correct fitting has been obtained, tighten the bolts previously loosened and remove Tool. The turnbuckle drawbar referred to above, can be constructed from two ¾ inch sections of round steel stock, threaded at one end. On the other end, a 90° bend about 2¼ inches from the end. Be sure the overall length of the drawbar is enough to reach from the hood hinge support bracket to the radiator support. Install the threaded ends in a turnbuckle.

BODY A N D SHEET METAL Front of Hood Higher than Fenders If this condition is apparent, check the rear edge of the hood to see if it is low at the cowl. If the hood to cowl adjustment is correct, check the hood striker and latch assembly. If the striker is shortened the front of the hood will be drawn down. It will be necessary also to adjust the hood bumpers on both sides when adjusting the hood. To correct this condition, adjust as follows: (1) Raise the hood and loosen the striker locknut above the striker plate. (2) Now turn the striker inward, using a screwdriver. The number of turns will be determined by the amount the hood will have to be brought down, also lower hood bumpers. (3) Lower the hood and check fit. If the correct adjustment has been obtained, hold screwdriver in slot in striker then tighten locknut. D o n o t adjust t h e striker too short, as difficulty will be experienced when closing the hood.

463

allow the lockplate to be shifted slightly in any direction. The striker stud is threaded into the lockplate and is secured by a locknut, (see Figure 8). To adjust the striker, (to lengthen or shorten) loosen the locknut and turn the striker i n or out with a screwdriver until the correct adjustment has been obtained. After making any adjustment that requires a shifting of the hood or fender, always check the hood striker for proper length and the lock plate assembly for alignment. Servicing the Rear Fender— (Quarter Panel) (See Figures 9, ÌO, 11, 12 and 13) The rear fender (quarter panel) replacement should only be necessary when the panel is damaged to the extent that body bumping could not restore it to original condition. Before attempting this type of repair, it is necessary to have available, experienced body mechanics who are equipped with the proper tools.

Hood Side Contour Does Not Follow Fender When the side contour of the hood does not follow the curve of the fender, the hood should be reshaped. To correct this condition, adjust a s follows: (1) Insert a small block of wood (about 1 inch square) between fender flange and hood, just apposite the low spot on the hood. (2) Now, close the hood slowly. With the hands placed just ahead of the block, gently apply pressure to the hood. (3) Repeat this operation about every six inches until the contour of the fender and hood conform evenly. Fender Below Level of Hood If the hood has been properly adjusted and one fender is still below the level of the hood at the front, the fender should be raised. To correct this condition, adjust as follows: (1) Raise the hood, then loosen the bolts that hold the fender to the radiator support. (2) Wrap a cloth around lifting hook of service jack and install under front lower corner of the fender. (3) Raise the jack until the front wheel can just be turned by hand. Leave the jack in place and tighten the fender bolts securely. (4) Lower the jack, close the hood and check the fit. (5) Adjust hood bumpers a s required. Adjustment of the Hood Striker and Lock Assembly The hood striker is mounted on a plate which is attached to the hood by 4 bolts as shown in Figure 8. The bolt holes in the plate are elongated to allow the striker to be adjusted fore-and-aft. The hood lock plate is fastened by five bolts, in slightly oversized holes, which will

57x601

Fig. 9—Quarter Panel Identification (4 Door Sedan)

57x6Û2

Fig. 10—Quarter Panel Identification (4 Door H.T.)

464

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x603 Fig. 11—Quarter Panel Identification (Special Club Coupe)

57x604 Fig. 13—Quarter Panel Identification (Convertible)

aged section and installing a new quarter outer front panel. (2) If the outside quarter panel attaching brackets are damaged beyond repair, then a complete new quarter panel assembly should be installed. All the necessary inside mounting and supporting brackets (less wheel houses) are welded to the outside panel to make up the service replacement quarter panel assembly. If difficulty is experienced in separating spot welds where the damaged panel is attached, the panel can be cut away from its flange leaving the old flange intact, the new panel can then be welded over the old flange. 57x616

Fig. 12—Quarter Panel Identification (Club Coupe)

The type and extent of damage to the fender, is the determining factor in the portion of the panel to be replaced. In some cases the complete quarter panel will have to be replaced. The repair of a damaged quarter panel can be handled the same as it always has been on any other body panel. When a section of the rear fender (or quarter panel) has been damaged or torn beyond repair, it should be cut out with a torch or other suitable cutting tool. A similar section should be cut from a new quarter panel, and welded in position on the damaged quarter panel. This is the standard method of making a repair of this kind, and has been used for quite some time in body repair shops. Should the entire rear quarter panel be damaged beyond repair, one of two conditions may develop. (1) If only the outside quarter panel skin is damaged, then the repair can be made by cutting away the dam-

Rear Deck Lid, Hinges and Lock

The rear deck lid provides a cover and weatherstrip for the rear compartment. The rear compartment is sealed against the entry of water and dust by the lid closing against the rubber weatherstrip which is retained by a channel around the deck lid opening. The lid is attached to the body with two hinges and is held closed by a lid latch and lock. All Dodge cars have a balanced deck lid, made possible by a torsion bar hinge mechanism. Lifting the deck lid is accomplished with a finger tip—the weight J^HINGE-LEFT TORSION BAR

HÍNGE-RIGHT

57x53O¾

Fig. 14—Torsion Bar Hinge Mechanism

BODY A N D SHEET METAL oí the heavy lid is counter-balanced in all positions by the spring tension of the two torsion bars. (See Figure 14.) The deck lid torsion bar mechanism is very simple. The torsion bars are long, small diameter steel bars that operate on bushings on each side and are anchored in adjustable slots in the support bracket. (See Figure 14). As the deck lid is raised, the twisting action of the bars against the hinges causes the bars to twist, exerting a torsional spring resistance that balances the lid. To permit adjustment of the torsion bar tension, three slots are located in each support plate, as shown in Figure 15. To adjust rod tension, insert slot in Tool C-3445, behind lower rod, then roll tool forward to disengage lower rod from bracket. Be sure a n d prop

the deck lid in the wide open position before changing adjustment, to avoid personal injury in case the lid should drop. Bend rod toward front

HINGE ATTACHING BOLT

ADJUSTIN<^l£TSl j57x53TI

Fig. 15—Torsion Bar Suspension

ADJUSTING SLOTS SUPPORT BRACKET

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Fig. 16—Removing Torsion Bar from Slots

465

of car to lessen tension and toward the rear to increase tension. When lid has been adjusted correctly, lid should hold any position when released. The torsion bar bushings are lubricated at the factory and should require no further lubrication. However, if a new torsion bar has been installed, coat the bushing with lubriplate. To r e m o v e a torsion b a r for r e p l a c e m e n t , r e f e r to F i g u r e 15, t h e n p r o c e e d a s follows: (1) Support the deck lid with a suitable prop, then disengage the bars from adjusting slots, using Tool C¯3449, as shown in Figure 16. Caution: Use e x t r e m e c a r e w h e n r e m o v i n g b a r s a s the tension w i l l c a u s e t h e m to " u n w i n d " s u d d e n l y . (2) Slide the bars out of the center support bracket, then bow the rod slightly and disengage from slot in bushing. (3) Disengage the bars from hinge and slide out from car. To install torsion bars, again refer to Figure 16, then proceed as follows: (1) Slide bars into position in the same manner as when removing. (2) Engage bar with center support, then install bar end in adjusting slot in support bracket, using Tool C-3449. Install other side an like manner. (3) Remove prop and check lid for operation. If necessary, adjust as described previously. (4) After adjustment has been made, tap ends of bars with a hammer to be sure they are fully engaged in adjusting slots. Removing and Installing the Deck Lid Adjustment of the deck lid is obtained by loosening the bolts and shifting the lid from side to side or front to rear. It is often possible, however, to properly fit the deck lid by adjusting the striker plate, latch or both. Should it become necessary to remove the deck lid for replacement or repair, refer to Figure 15, then proceed as follows: (1) Raise the deck lid and remove one of the two bolts in each hinge that attach lid to the hinge arm. (Leave the remaining two bolts finger loose). (2) Brace the deck lid in such a manner so as to hold the lid in position while removing the last two bolts. (This will keep the lid from sliding down and damaging the rear deck.) (3) Remove the last two bolts and lift deck lid up and away from rear of car. When installing the deck lid, observe the same precaution. Lift the lid and slide down into position, then install the attaching bolts. Do not tighten, just snug down. Lower the lid and check the fit. If necessary, adjust lid, then check adjustment of latch and striker plate.

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466

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Removing and Installing Deck Lid Hinges The deck lid hinge upper mounting flange is fastened to the deck lid by two bolts at each hinge. The bolt holes are slotted and slightly oversize to permit fore-and-aft and lateral adjustment of the deck lid. Should it become necessary to remove and install either of the rear deck lid hinges, for repair to complete replacement, refer to Figure 15, then proceed as follows: (1) Raise the deck lid and brace the lid on the corner where hinge is to be removed. (2) Remove the torsion bar from the side on which hinge is to be removed. (Remove torsion bar as described previously.) (3) Remove the bolts that hold deck lid to hinge arm. Now, remove the bolts that hold the hinge pivot plate to the support bracket. Disengage hinge from bracket and remove from rear compartment. To install the hinge, slide hinge into position in the trunk compartment, then install bolts. Do not tighten, just snug down. Now, install the bolts that hold the hinge to the deck lid. Do not tighten, just snug down. Remove prop and lower lid to check the fit. Make the necessary adjustments to center lid in opening. Also, check adjustment of the latch and striker plate. After adjustments have been made prop lid open and install torsion bar. Rear Deck Lid Adjustments The deck lid hinges, lock and striker plate are adjustable, enabling a proper fit of the deck lid with little effort. Centering Deck Lid in Opening The two bolt holes in each of the deck lid hinges are oversize, thereby permitting the lid to be moved ahead or back, and from side to side. When positioning, locate the lid so the extreme rear portion along the sides are

both flush with the body panel as well as equally spaced in the opening. To adjust, loosen the hinge bolts (one hinge at a time) as shown in Figure 15. Move the lid in the desired direction, then retighten bolts. Repeat this operation on the opposite side until the lid fits flush with the body panel all around. Correcting Deck Lid Contour Incorrect contour of the deck lid should not be confused with the deck lid being improperly located on its hinges. The lid spacing across the top must be uniform but at the same time, must be flush with the rear body quarter panels. The lid contour can be increased or decreased a slight amount by bending, but when doing so, the space across the top of the lid is also increased or decreased. For instance, if the contour was increased, the lid would become shorter whereas, if the contour was decreased the lid would become longer. Each time the lid contour is changed, in all probability the lid would have to be relocated on the hinges. To increase the Deck Lid Contour Insert a rubber mallet between the lid and quarter panel, as shown in Figure 17, then apply pressure on the lower corner of the lid. Remove mallet and check the fit and flushness at rear of deck lid. Readjust lid on the hinges if necessary. To Decrease Deck Lid Contour Insert the large end of Tool C-3011 in the opening of underside of lid, hooking exposed end of Tool under rear quarter panel, as shown in Figure 18. Pull out on the rear end of deck lid, to decrease the contour. Remove Tool and then check the fit of the lid at the lower body panel and the space across the top. Readjust lid on the hinges if necessary.

57x534 Fig. 17â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Increasing Deck Lid Contour

Fig. 18â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Decreasing Deck Lid Contour

BODY A N D SHEET METAL

467

57x537 Fig. 21—Checking Seal of Deck Lid

5QI3ÌXMS "57x535"

Fig. 19—Striker Plate Adjustment

Raising or Lowering Upper Corners of Deck Lid To Raise If either of the upper corners are too low, open the deck lid and loosen the bolts that hold the hinge to the hinge bracket. Insert a small fibre block under the low corner between lid and side panel. Slightly lower lid. Tighten bolts and check fit. To Lower Raise the deck lid and loosen the bolts as in the paragraph above. Press down on top of deck lid at high corner until correct fit has been obtained. Tighten the bolts, then check adjustment of the latch and striker plate.

the push-button latch release. If this happens, the lid will not open. Checking for a Correctly Fitted Deck Lid A correctly fitted deck lid is one that is centered in the opening, and fits flush with the body panels. A check for proper fitting and seal of the deck lid can be made with strips of paper. Insert the strips of paper (about an inch wide) along the edge of the deck lid opening, then close the lid. (See Figure 21.) If the papersfitsnug all along the edges of lid as they are pulled out a good seal is evident. If the paper fits loosely on one side, and tight on the other, the deck lid should be aligned.

Checking Latch and Striker Plate Both latch and striker plate are adjustable, but better results can be obtained by adjusting the striker plate. The striker plate is adjustable to either side as shown in Figure 19. Adjusting the Latch Loosen three bolts, as shown in Figure 20 and move latch into proper engaging position. Tighten bolts securely. When adjusting the latch, care must be taken to be sure the latch is not moved away from

-;¾V`>

`-s, ATTACHING SCREWS*. ¾.

DOOR MOUNTING BOLTS (UPPER)

PILLAR MOUNTING '* BOLTS (UPPER)

DOOR MOUNTING ,¿<î¾ BOLTS (LOWER)

PILLAR MOUNTING BOLTS (LOWER)

I FORWARD ^ ^ ^ ^ RETAINING CLIP HOLE

Fig. 20—Deck Lid Latch Adjustment

57x536

SDOWN.: -7

\ WÊÊÊ

57x5381

Fig. 22—"L" Type Semi-Box Hinges (Front Door)

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

468

Deck Lid Lock Cylinder The deck lid lock cylinder is of the push button type and is held in place by a clip attached from the inside. The clip is accessible through an opening on the inside of the deck lid (Refer to Figure 20). 3.

DOORS, HINGES AND LOCKS

Semï-ßox Type Hinge-("I" Mounted Front Door) The "L" mounted semi-box type hinge is used on all body models on the front doors and is fastened to the hinge pillars with bolts. These bolts enter a support plate in the pillar and are accessible by opening the door to wide open position, as shown in Figure 22. The bolts for the door half of the front door hinge pass through a reinforcement panel inside the door and enter a floating tapped plate. The door half of the front door hinge can only be reached by removing the door trim panel. Adjustment of the Semi-Box Type Hinge All four of the bolts that attach the hinge to the pillar are secured by a floating tapped plate. The bolt openings are slotted horizontally. By loosening these bolts, the door may be adjusted i n or out. The upper and lower hinges should be adjusted individually so that alignment may be checked before adjusting the other hinge. The adjustment of one hinge may be all that is necessary to realign the door. In order to loosen the bolts that attach the hinge to the door panel, remove the inside hardware and trim panel. The bolt holes are slotted "fore-and-aft" and allow approximately ¼ inch adjustment of the door.

FORWARD OR BACKWARD

The bolt holes are also slightly oversize vertically and allow a slight vertical adjustment. Never attempt to bend the hinge while installed in the car—as the mounting surface of the pillar or door face may become damaged. Butt Type Hinge-("L" Mounted-Rear Door) The "L" mounted butt type hinge is used on all body models on the rear doors and is fastened to the hinge pillar with hex. head bolts. These bolts like the front door, enter a support plate in the "B" pillar and are accessible by removing the "B" post trim panel. (See Figure 23.) The bolts for the door half of the rear door hinge pass through a reinforcement panel inside the door and enter a floating tapped plate. These bolts are accessible by opening the rear door to wide open position. (See Figure 23.) The rear door hinges like the front are adjustable fore-and-aft, in and out and a slight vertical adjustment. Shimming the Body for Door Alignment If adjustment of the door hinges does not correct the door misalignment, it will be necessary to shim the body. Before attempting to correct door misalignment by body shimming, the location of the body bolts should be known. (Refer to Body Bolt Location Paragraph.) Installing Body Shims To install the shims between the frame bracket and the body at any body mounting bolt, loosen all body bolts on that side. Place a 2 x 4 or a fibre block on a floor jack and raise the body slightly at the location to be shimmed. Add a sufficient number of shims to correct the misalignment. After shims have been inserted, snug down the body bolts and check the door alignment before tightening the body bolts to specifications. After inserting shims at any one body bolt, be sure the adjacent body bolts are shimmed to support the body on a straight line contour.

"B" POST TRIM PANEL

Removing Shims In some instances shims may have to be removed to correct door misalignment. If front door is high at rear edge, shims may be removed from the number 2 body bolts. Excessive shims on the number 4 body bolt will be indicated by a rear door binding at the bottom. 57x539

Fig. 23—"L" Type Hinges (Rear Door)

Conditions Requiring Body Shimming (1) Rear door binds near top at lock pillar.

BODY A N D SHEET METAL

469 DOOR LOCK ROTOR

spacing correct at hinge pillar. Shim at number 4 body bolts. Add shims until the spacing between the lock pillar and rear door is the same as between the door and hinge pillar. Check adjustment by opening and closing rear door to see if interference has been eliminated. If several shims have been added, it may be necessary to add shims at the number 3 body bolt. (2) Rear door sags when opened. Shim number three body bolt. Insert enough shims to center the door vertically in the door opening. (3) Front door sags when opened. Shim number two body bolt. Insert shims to center the door vertically in the door opening. Door must open and close freely before tightening body bolts. (4) Front door high at rear edge. Check for excessive shims at number two body bolt. If no shims are found at this bolt, shims must be added at number one body bolt. Insert shims to center the door vertically in the door opening. Door must open and close easily before tightening body bolts.

FITTING DOORS

Make a thorough inspection of the door before attempting adjustment. A properly fitted door has evenly spaced gaps on all sides. Check the engagement of the door latch with the striker plate. If the door raises as the latch passes over the plate, the plate is too high and must be lowered. The striker plate shown in Figure 24, can be moved "In" or "Out" and controls ìhe tightness of the door against the body. The "Up" and "Down" adjustment will determine the actual point of engagement between the door lock rotor and the lower portion of the striker plate.

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Fig. 24—Door Striker Plate Adjustment

The amount of vertical movement in the door is limited; however, the amount of movement can be determined by the scribed line previously made. Raise or lower the jack until the desired clearance is obtained then tighten hinge bolts securely. Check t h e scribe lines to make certain the rear portion of the door did not move forward or rearward during above operation. Moving Door Ahead or Back (Front Door) Moving the door ahead or back is accomplished by loosening either the upper or lower hinge bolts. (See Figure 22.) To move the upper portion of door ahead or back (trim panel removed), loosen upper hinge strap bolts and either pull or push the upper portion of the door in the desired direction. Tighten hinge strap bolt and check the fit. When correct reinstall the door trim panel. To move the lower portion of door ahead or back (trim panel removed), loosen lower hinge strap bolts and either pull or push the lower portion of the door in the desired direction. Tighten hinge strap bolts and check the fit. When correct, reinstall the door trim panel.

After the door has been fitted properly to the opening, adjust the striker plate as necessary.

Fitting Front Door Flush With Adjacent Panels

To Raise or Lower Door (Front Doors)

If door is not flush with adjacent panels, correct by loosening the four hinge strap bolts (on front doors or three hinge strap bolts on rear doors).

To raise or lower the door, remove the trim panel. Then, place jack under door as near the hinge a s possible. (This will hold the weight of the door as hinge bolts are loosened). (1) Scribe a line around the upper and lower hinge strap. (2) Loosen the upper and lower hinge strap bolts, as shown in Figure 21.

It should be remembered that when loosening the upper hinge and pulling "out" or pushing "in" on the front upper corner of the door, the lower corner of the door will be moved inward or outward also. The opposite corners of the door will also be affected in a similar manner when the lower hinge is moved "in" or "out." This applies to both front and rear doors.

•

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

If after making the hinge adjustments as described above, and the upper portion of the door is still out too far, open the door ventilating wing and the door glass. With Tool Model "G" Double Bar Unit bend the door to its correct position. If the door is sprung or bowed out at the center, mount Tool Model "H" Single Bar Unit. Tighten lower clamp to force door back to original position. After using Bar units. Check the door for proper fit and ease of window operation. Final Striker Plate Adjustment After the door has been centered in its opening and all hinge bolts have been tightened from 18 to 20 footpounds, check the door for easy opening and closing. To obtain this easy operation, move the striker plate in or out, up or down as necessary until easy operation is obtained, and the door fits snugly against the weatherstrip.

If no drag is felt, move the striker plate in closer. This paper test should be made all around the door at about six inch intervals. If no drag is felt on the paper, make the necessary adjustments to either or both hinge pockets or striker plate. Rear Door Adjustments To move door up or down in body opening or to move door in or out to bring door panel flush with body proceed as follows: (1) Loosen hinge attaching bolts at "B" pillar. (2) Move door as required to obtain proper fit with door opening. (3) Tighten bolts securely.

UPHOLSTERY PROTECTING WASHER

Be sure the top surface of the striker plate is parallel with the bottom face of the door latch. The striker plate is properly positioned when the door has a very slight lift as it is closed. This also prevents door noise when the car is in motion. If proper adjustment cannot be obtained, the use of shims between the latch plate and pillar should be used. The shims are available in ‰ and ¼ 6 inch thickness. (The shims are used to bring the latch plate closer to the door for full engagement.) The door weatherstrip seal can be checked by holding a heavy piece of paper (similar to a shipping tag) against the lock pillar and then closing the door. A slight drag should be felt as the paper is being pulled out. (Refer to Figure 25.)

jaicf from, LEFT su¿c

` > Fig.

57x540

25—Checking Seal of Door

56x516 Fig.

HANDLE DOWN

26—Removal of Regulator Handles

471

BODY AND SHEET METAL To move door toward the rear of car; shims may be installed between hinge and pillar or between hinge and door. 5.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF INSIDE DOOR AND W I N D O W REGULATOR HANDLES The door and window regulator handles are attached to the regulators with a spring type clip. To remove either the control or regulator handle, refer to Figure 26, and using Tool C-3448 proceed as follows: (1) Slide the pronged jaws between the handle boss and upholstery protecting washer. A l w a y s insert p r o n g e d j a w s from left side. (2) When the lip between the prongs contacts the spring clip, squeeze the plier-like tool which releases the spring clip from the locking groove, thus permitting the handle to be pulled off easily. This tool can also be used for removing door trim panels, as the pronged jaw prevents clips from pulling through the trim panel. When reinstalling handle, be sure the concave side of the washer is facing out. Slide handle over shaft and press on until clip engages locking groove on shaft.

54x737

Fig. 28—Removing Door Trim Panel

When installing, position the lower portion of the moulding in door opening, and engage clip with leading edge. Slide the top into place and install retaining screws and tighten. 7.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF GARNISH MOULDING To remove the door garnish mouldings to facilitate the servicing of the door mechanism, such as, electric window lifts (if so equipped), remote window and door controls, etc., proceed as follows: (1) Remove the screws that attach the door garnish moulding to the door. Now, pull the top of garnish moulding out and away from the top of door. (See Figure 27.) (2) Now, raise moulding up and slide out of door opening.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF DOOR TRIM PANELS

(1) Remove door and window control handles (if so equipped). (2) Remove door garnish moulding as described previously. (3) Remove arm rest (if so equipped). (4) Starting at the lower corner of panel, work the panel out and away from door, as shown in Figure 28. ATTACHING SCREW VENT WINDOW x `

\ \

GARNISH MOULDING

DOOR LATCH REMOTE CONTROL

' 1

POWER WINDOW CONTROL LEADS f W I N D O W LOWER ^ l SCREWS:" POWER W I N D O W MOTOR 57x542

F¡g. 27—Removing or Installing Garnish Moulding

Fig. 29—Front Door Assembly

472

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

When installing, be sure all clips are securely in place then install in position on door. Force each clip into position with the palm of hand. Install garnish moulding, control handles and arm rest.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF DOOR VENTILATOR

To remove and install a door ventilator for repair or installation of new parts, refer to Figure 29, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the window garnish moulding, remote control handles and arm rest. (2) Remove the door trim panel. (3) Remove the three screws that attach the ventilator window to the door frame, as shown in Figure 29. (2 screws located on front face of door.) (4) Remove the bolt and washer that holds the division bar (anchor) of the vent window to inside door panel bracket. (See Figure 30). (5) Now, lower the front vertical window against its bottom stop. Slightly twist the vent window and at the same time tilt toward inside of vehicle. This will disengage the lowered vertical window glass from division bar run. Slide vent window up and out of door panel, as shown in Figure 31. If removing a ventilator window from a convertible or special club coupe, refer to Paragraph 25. When installing vent window, be sure and engage the vertical glass with the division bar run, using the same method as when removing. Install screws, bolts and washer and tighten securely. Check vertical window for operation. Adjust if necessary.

REPLACING GLASS RUN CHANNEL (1) Work the lower portion of door trim panel away

J57x733¦ Fig. 31—Removing or Installing Vent Window

from door far enough to reach in a n d disengage lower end of channel from support. (2) Lower the window a n d loosen the garnish moulding retaining screws. (3) Disengage e n d of glass run from vent window division bar. Now, pull run down from the top a n d across door until run is free. (See Figure 32.) (4) With the glass run disengaged from door across the top, pull remaining portion u p a n d out of door a s shown in Figure 33. When installing new glass run, use old run a s pattern for length a n d curved portion. Install b y sliding vertical length into door to the curve, then across the top. Eng a g e with vent window division bar. Now, raise window a n d engage lower end of run in channel. Tighten garnish moulding screws a n d reset trim panel.

57x732 Fig. 30—Removing or Installing Vent Window Anchor Bolt

. 32—Disengaging Upper Portion of Run from Door

473

BODY A N D SHEET METAL

Fig. 33—Removing or Installing Window Glass Run

10. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF DOOR GLASS (1) Remove garnish moulding, inside door handles, arm rest and trim panel. (2) Remove weatherproof liner and panel cover, (if

so equipped). Use care w h e n removing weatherproof liner to avoid d a m a g e . (3) Remove the glass run, as described previously. (4) Remove the screw that holds the lower window stop to door panel, as shown in Figure 34. Remove stop. Now, lower window down far enough to disengage regulator arm pivot roller. Raise window and tilt inward until window glass clears top of door, as shown in Figure 35. (5) Continue to raise window until the other regulator arm pivot roller clears door, then disengage and lift window glass out and away from door. When installing a new window glass, be sure slots

F¡g. 35—Removing or Installing Vertical Door Glass

in bottom of channel frame are coated with Lubriplate, and that the pivot rollers are free. After window has been installed, adjust the division bar so that the vertical sliding glass does not bind when the window is raised or lowered. 11.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE The door handle is a bar type pull handle that is recessed in the door panel. The lock cylinder is a part of the handle and to service lock cylinder it is necessary to remove the handle. The front door handle is attached to the lock trip latch by a link which is adjustable to allow for any variance in thickness of door panels. The link is adjustable (through an access hole in the end of door panel.) The lock handle is held by two studs which go through the outside door panel and are attached by two nuts on the inside of the door panel. DOOR HANDLE I

157x736

Fig. 34—Removing Lower Window Stop

LOCK CYLINDER SET SCREW

xói7 . 36—Removing or Installing Door Handle (Front)

474

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

The lock cylinder is held in the door handle by a set screw. The remote control lock handle is connected to the door lock by a remote control arm. The remote lock control is held in position on the door panel by two Phillips head screws and has up and down adjustment.

Removing the Front Door Handle (1) Remove window garnish moulding, window regulator handle, remote control handle and arm rest. (2) Remove door trim panel and weatherproof liner. (3) Disengage door handle link from latch link, (accessible through opening in end of door panel.) (4) Remove attaching nuts that hold handle to door panel. Slide handle away from door, as shown in Figure 36. To remove lock cylinder it is necessary to remove the handle. The cylinder lock is held in place by a set screw.

Installing the Front Door Handle (1) Slide the door handle in door panel. (Refer to Figure 36.) (2) Attach nuts from inside door panel. (3) Engage door handle link and latch link, adjust for proper travel. (4) Replace weatherproof liner and trim panel. (5) Install window garnish moulding remote control handle, arm rest, and window regulator handle.

Removing the Rear Door Handle (1) Remove window garnish moulding, window regulator handle, remote control handle and arm rest, remote control lock handle. (2) Remove door trim panel and weatherproof liner. (3) Remove attaching nuts that hold handle to door panel, slÂˇde handle away from door, as shown in Figure 37.

Installing Rear Door Handle (1) Slide the door handle in door panel. (Refer to Figure 37). (2) Attach nuts from inside door panel. (3) Replace weatherproof liner and trim panel.

(4) Install window garnish moulding remote control handle, arm rest, window regulator handle and remote control lock handle.

12.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF W I N D O W REGULATOR

Should it become necessary to remove door window regulator for repair or installation of new parts refer to Figure 29, and proceed as follows: (1) Remove window garnish moulding, remote control handles and arm rest. (2) Remove door trim panel. (3) Remove weather proof lining and panel cover if so equipped. Use c a r e w h e n r e m o v i n g w e a t h e r proof l i n i n g to a v o i d t e a r i n g . (4) Remove the door glass as described previously. (5) Remove the four attaching screws and lock washers that hold the window regulator assembly to inside door panel. (Refer to Figure 29.) Now, slide the window regulator assembly out through large opening at bottom of the door. When installing a new regulator assembly, be sure that the gear teeth and gear are liberally coated with lubriplate. Be sure that weather proof lining is securely cemented to the door at reassembly.

13.

REMOVAL OF FRONT DOOR LATCH AND REMOTE CONTROL

To remove the front door latch and remote control assembly for repairs or installation of new parts refer to Figure 29, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the window garnish moulding, remote control handles and arm rest. (2) Remove door trim panel and weather proof liner. (3) Remove screws that hold remote control assembly to the door panel. (4) Remove the screws that hold the door latch to the door. Now work latch and remote control assembly out through opening in the door. When installing remote control door latch be sure that all parts are suitably coated with lubriplate. Use the same precaution as described above when replacing weather proof liner.

14. WINDSHIELD

WEATHERSTRIP

The windshield and rear window weatherstrip on the new Dodge (sedans and coupes) are of the one piece type with an integral outside locking lip, as shown in Figure 38. The windshield is a single piece of curved glass and is inserted in the glass channel of the weatherstrip. The windshield and weatherstrip is held in the body opening by the pressure of the closed locking lip.

15. Fig. 37â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removing or Installing Door Handle (Rear)

REMOVING WINDSHIELD-(All

Models)

The actual procedure for removal and installation of the windshield glass on all models is identical, with

BODY AND SHEETMETAL

475

UPPER MOULDING SCREWS LOWER MOULDING LOCKING STRIP WEATHERSTRIP GLASS

NUT

57xó05

F¡g. 38—Windshield Weatherstrip

F¡g. 40—Removing or Installing Side Moulding

the exception of the removal and installation of the chrome trim and garnish mouldings. Should it become necessary to remove and install the windshield due to breakage, the operation should be done as follows: (1) Cover the cowl and hood with a protective cloth, then remove the windshield wiper blades and arms. (2) Loosen, but do not remove the screws that hold the garnish mouldings to the body frame. (3) Using a screwdriver or other suitable tool, carefully pry up the air intake grille, starting at extreme ends and working toward the center. Lift grille up and away from opening. This will expose 3 of the lower moulding attaching nuts. Remove nuts and seals, using an offset box socket. (4) Remove the two windshield upper moulding caps to expose the moulding attaching screws. Remove screws (2 on each side). (See Figure 39). (5) Remove the screws that attach the side mouldings

to the "A" post. Pry moulding out away from "A" post and disengage from upper and lower end mouldings and remove from car, as shown in Figure 40. (6) Remove the screw that attaches the lower end mouldings to the cowl side section and the nut and seal that hold the moulding to the top cowl section (located up under instrument panel). Raise moulding slightly and disengage from lower moulding, then remove from car, as shown in Figure 41. (7) Carefully lift extreme ends of upper moulding out and away from header, then, using a suitable tool, carefully pry the center section out away from header, (snap clip). Slide moulding away from car. (8) Remove the remaining nuts and seals that attach the lower moulding to the top cowl section (located up behind instrument panel and against dash). Lift moulding straight up and away from car, as shown in Figure 42. (9) Install fibre tool in locking fold of weatherstrip.

;

UPPER M O U L D I N G " ` ^ Z < * # æ ¶ f ? SCREW

157x606 Fig. 39—Upper Moulding Attaching Screws

F¡g. 4 1 — Removing or Installing Lower End Moulding

476

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ATTACHING STUDS

57x609.;

Fig. 42—Removing or Installing Lower Moulding To unlock windshield, twist slightly, to unlock then slide tool across the cowl, up sides and over top completely opening locking strip, as shown in Figure 43. Releasing of the locking fold will allow windshield to be removed without disturbing the weatherstrip. To remove windshield glass from weatherstrip it is suggested that canvas gloves be worn in order to protect hands in case windshield is cracked or broken. Continue

Fig. 43—Unlocking Weatherstrip

Fig. 45—Removing or Installing Side Trim Moulding (Typical) to remove windshield as follows: (10) With a hand at either right or left hand lower corner, exert enough pressure to force windshield out of weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 44. (11) Slide windshield out of weatherstrip and away from car. Windshield Removal—(Convertible Coupe) To remove the windshield of a Convertible Coupe, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the screws that held the side mouldings to the "A" post and header (sun cap). Pry up slightly to clear "A" post, then disengage from header and lower moulding and remove, as shown in Figure 45. (2) Remove the screws that attach the header trim cap to the header. Remove from car, as shown in Figure 46.

j57x611*

F¡g. 44—Forcing Windshield Glass Out of Weatherstrip

Fig. 46—Removing or Installing Header Trim Cap (Typical)

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL

1 1

21/64 TO 33/64 INCH

477

Fig. 48—Applying Liquid Soap and Water Solution to Weatherstrip

soaps have a strong detergent that may streak or stain the painted surface of the car.

"<¯l/8 TO 1/4 INCH 56 x 515

Fig. 47—Checking Windshield Clearances

16. WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION (All models)

Then remove windshield glass as previously outlined in steps 5, 6, and 8. A windshield which has a crack originating from under the weatherstrip indicates the possibility of a pressure crack. Before installing a new windshield, it is advisable to check the windshield opening clearances. These clearances can be checked as follows: (1) Remove windshield weatherstrip. (2) Install the glass in the opening with six pieces of four inch weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 47. (This is enough to support the windshield in place.) (3) Check the clearance between glass and fence. A properly centered glass has 2 ‰ to 3 % 4 inch clearance on all sides, and ¼ to ¼ inch distance between the outer edge of the glass and the centerline of the fence, as shown in Figure 47. Any spot on the body that varies should be re-worked by either grinding away the fence or straightening the

opening. When reinstalling glass and mouldings, tighten moulding screws just enough to prevent rattles. If a new weatherstrip is to be installed, start at bottom and work weatherstrip up and around windshield opening and into position. (It may be necessary to hold weatherstrip to fence in some places with masking tape.) Be sure the moulding slot in weatherstrip is evenly spaced. When installing a new windshield glass be sure and coat the weatherstrip with a goodly amount of liquid soap and water solution and apply with a two inch brush, as shown in Figure 48. Use care w h e n a p plying the soap and water solution. Some

To install a new windshield glass, place glass in position across cowl, then slide upper edge of glass into channel of weatherstrip. Pound the glass with the palm of the hand, using an upward motion, until glass is fully seated in channel of weatherstrip at top. Now, allow lower edge of glass to rest on weatherstrip. (Be sure glass is evenly spaced in opening.) Hold in this position, then proceed as follows: (1) Using a wedge shaped piece of hardwood or fibre, (approximately ½ inch wide) inserted between weatherstrip and glass at either upper corner, strip glass into weatherstrip by sliding tool down the side and across bottom, as shown in Figure 49. Do likewise on opposite side. As glass is being stripped in position, pound the glass, using the palm of the hand in an upward motion.

Fig. 49—Stripping Glass into Weatherstrip

•

478

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL (12) Clean the windshield, using a suitable solvent, then check for water leaks.

Windshield installation—(Convertible Coupe)

57x6ì3

Fig. 50—-Locking Windshield Glass in Weatherstrip

(2) Coat the weatherstrip with soap and water solution, then, starting at the top center, slide tool over the locking fold with enough pressure to force the fold into the locked position, as shown in Figure 50. Always work across top, down each side and over bottom. (3) Slide the upper windshield moulding caps over ends of moulding and space sufficiently to allow the installation of the attaching screws. (See Figure 39.) (4) Place the upper moulding in position against the weather strip and align the attaching screw holes in the moulding with those in the header. Center the moulding, then exert sufficient pressure at center to force clip into position. (Be sure clip is centered.) (5) Install the attaching screws, but do not tighten. (6) Place the lower moulding in position on cowl and center the moulding. Align attaching studs with holes in cowl then lower moulding down and into position. Install the 3 nuts and seals through vent opening and tighten securely. Install remaining nuts and seals from under instrument panel. Tighten all except the nuts on the extreme ends. (7) Place the lower end moulding in position, overlapping the lower moulding. (Refer to Figure 41.) Install seal, nut and attaching screw. Now tighten end nuts of lower moulding and end moulding securely. Be sure end moulding overlaps lower moulding evenly. (8) Slide the side mouldings into position with the lower end overlapping the upper portion of end moulding. Slide the upper end under upper moulding, then pull back on moulding to force lip over "A" post. Install screws and tighten securely. (Refer to Figure 40.) (9) Tighten upper moulding attaching screws securely, then slide trim caps over to cover attaching screws. (10) Carefully reinstall the ventilator grille, starting at the center and working toward each end. (11) Reinstall the windshield wiper arms and blades, then tighten the windshield garnish moulding attaching screws securely.

Install the windshield on the convertible in the same manner as described in Paragraph 17, Windshield Glass Installation—(All Models), steps 1 and 2, then continue as follows: (1) Slide the header cap moulding up against weatherstrip. (Refer to Figure 46.) (2) Force the moulding against weatherstrip, then press rear edge down over header. Install end screws to hold in position, then rap lightly with a rubber hammer to seat. (Be sure cap is evenly spaced across header.) Install screws and tighten securely. (3) Install side trim mouldings, (refer to Figure 45). Press tightly against weatherstrip; engage with header, and lower moulding, then press down over "A" post and install retaining screws. (4) Install windshield wiper arms, then clean windshield, using a suitable solvent. Check windshield for water leaks.

17.

REAR WINDOW GLASS REMOVAL (All models except Convertible and Suburban)

The rear window glass on all Dodge body models (except the convertible and suburban) consists of a single piece of tempered glass mounted in a rubber one piece weatherstrip, (similar to that used in the windshield). If the reason for breakage of the rear window is unknown, it is advisable to check the rear window clearances. The procedures and clearances for checking the rear window are identical to those for the windshield, as outlined in Paragraph 16. (1) Remove the spare tire and the trunk compartment side trim panels. (2) Remove the nut and seal that holds the belt moulding center clip to the deck panel. Lift the center clip up and away from belt moulding. (3) Remove the nuts and seals that attach the right and left half belt moulding to the deck panel. (4) On the 2 door and 4 door hard top models, remove the nut and seal that holds the belt end trim moulding to the quarter panel. Carefully pry up the forward end of the moulding to release the forward clip. Disengage the trim piece from the belt moulding, then slide away from car, as shown in Figure 51. (This releases the belt moulding.) (5) lift the right and left hand belt mouldings straight up and away from deck panel, as shown in Figure 52. (6) On 4 door sedans and club coupes, pry the right and left side trim mouldings out of the weatherstrip and disengage from the upper moulding. Remove the upper moulding, being careful not to bend or distort.

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL

479

57x694

Fig. 51—Removing or Installing the Belt End Trim Moulding

Fig. 54—Stripping Glass into Weatherstrip

(9) Clean all glass particles out of the channel in the weatherstrip, making sure that the weatherstrip has not been damaged.

18. REAR W I N D O W GLASS INSTALLATION

Fig. 52—Removing or Installing the Belt Moulding

57x696

Fig. 53—Removing Side and Upper Moulding

(7) On the 2 door and 4 door hard top models, remove the upper moulding center clip. Now, pry the side and top one piece moulding out of the weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 53. (Use care so as not to bend or distort moulding or trouble will be encountered at reassembly.) (8) Force the fibre tool into the locking fold of the weatherstrip, twist slightly, then slide tool across the bottom, up sides and over the top, completely opening the weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 43.

—(All models except Convertible and Suburban) When installing a new rear window, be sure and coat the weatherstrip with a liquid soap and water solution. (Applied with a two inch brush. Refer to Figure 48). To install a new rear window glass, place glass in position across the rear deck, then slide the upper edge of glass into channel of weatherstrip. Pound the glass with the palm of the hand, using an upward motion until the glass is fully seated in the channel of the weatherstrip at top. Allow the lower edge of glass to rest on weatherstrip, (be sure the glass is evenly spaced in the weatherstrip) hold in this position, then proceed as follows: (1) Insert the fibre tool between the weatherstrip and glass at either upper corner, strip glass into weatherstrip by sliding the tool down the side and across the bottom, as shown in Figure 54. After the glass has been stripped into position, lock the glass in the weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 49. (2) Install a pull cord in the moulding slot of the weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 55. Allow about 4 inches to protrude. Place the upper moulding (4 door sedans and club coupes) or the one piece upper and side moulding (hard tops) on weatherstrip with lip of moulding in slot. (3) Exert sufficient pressure on moulding to hold the moulding lip in the weatherstrip as the pull cord is being removed, as shown in Figure 55. (4) After moulding has been installed, rap lightly with a rubber hammer to fully seat in weatherstrip. (5) Slide the side trim mouldings (4 door sedan and club coupe) into position and engage with upper mould-

480

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

57x700

Installing Pull Cord in Weatherstrip

l¿,;LOWER MOULDING ^

``‰ ¯

57x653.,

Fig. 56—Removing or Installing Garnish Mouldings

ing center clip (if so equipped). Tighten all moulding attaching nuts securely. Using a suitable solvent, clean the rear window glass, then check for water leaks. 19.

Fig. 5 5 — Installing Rear Window Moulding

ing at the same time, force the lip on the moulding into slot of weatherstrip. Seat moulding by rapping lightly with a rubber hammer. (6) Install the right and left belt mouldings. (Refer to Figure 52.) Install nuts, but do not tighten, just snug down. (On hard top models) install the belt end trim mouldings, by centering the forward clip and pushing into position, with the rear stud in its hole. Install retaining nut and tighten securely. When installing the belt mouldings a n d e n d pieces, be sure that e a c h hole is suitably s e a l e d to prevent w a t e r l e a k i n g into the trunk. (7) Install the belt moulding center clip in to position, overlapping the right and left hand mouldings. Install nut and tighten securely. Now, install the upper mould-

QUARTER W I N D O W REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION-^ door sedans and Suburbans)

Removing the Rear Quarter Window— (4 door sedans) Should it become necessary to remove the rear quarter glass, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the quarter window garnish moulding attaching screws, then slide moulding out of opening, as shown in Figure 56. (2) Remove the quarter window glass and weatherstrip from the opening, by pressing against glass (from outside in), as shown in Figure 57. (3) Peel the weatherstrip from glass, then clean out the glass channel. Installing the Rear Quarter Window To install the rear quarter window glass, proceed as follows: (1) Install the weatherstrip around the glass, making sure the glass is seated in its channel. Now, install a pull cord under the weatherstrip lip. (2) Insert the glass and weatherstrip into window opening, as shown in Figure 57. Be sure the weatherstrip is seated evenly in the window opening. Pull on the cord to seat the weatherstrip lip out and over the window reveal. (3) After making sure the window is firmly seated in the opening, install the garnish moulding and retaining screws. Tighten the screws securely, then check for water leaks.

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL

481

57x654

Fig. 57—Removing or Installing Glass and Weatherstrip

Fig. 59—Installing Rear Quarter Window (Typical) (5) Slide the window glass and weatherstrip into po-

Removing the Rear Quarter Window—(Suburban) sition in the opening, as shown in Figure 59. Press Should it be necessary to remove the rear quarter window for replacement, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the screws that hold the rear quarter window garnish mouldings to the window frame. Remove the garnish moulding by tilting out at the top, lifting slightly, and away from window. (2) Exert sufficient pressure on the window glass (from outside in) to force window out of opening. (3) Before installing the new glass, clean off the old sealer from the weatherstrip and the window frame, then apply a bead of sealer all around the window opening. This will prevent water or dust leaks. (4) Install the new glass in the weatherstrip, then insert a pull cord in the sealing lip slot, as shown in Figure 58. The pull cord should be installed so that the ends are on the bottom, and to the outside of the car.

against glass firmly to compress sealing bead. (6) Install the garnish moulding and retaining screws, but do not tighten. Now, from the outside, pull the cord and position the sealing lip over the edge of the window reveal, as shown in Figure 60. (If the pull cord is not available, a wedge shaped piece of wood or fibre can be used to position the lip of the weatherstrip, as shown in Figure 61. (7) After the weatherstrip sealing lip has been positioned, tighten the garnish moulding screws securely. Clean the window glass, using a suitable solvent, then check for water leaks.

20.

REAR W I N D O W REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION-(Ta¡l Gate) Suburban

The tail gate on the new Dodge is hinged and counter-

BOTTOM OF WINDOW

Fig. 58—Installing Pull Cord

Fig. 60—Removing Pull Cord

482

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

Fig. 61—Positioning Lip of Weatherstrip Over Reveal

balanced by two torsion rods to aid in raising and lowering the tail gate. (See Figure 64). The tail gate electric power window is standard equipment on the 3 seat Sierra and available on other models as an accessory. The Power Window is controlled by a switch on the instrument panel, or at the top center of the tail gate header. An externally located lock cylinder is provided to permit operation of the tail gate window from the WEATHERSTRIP

outside. Direction of key rotation raises or lowers the window. A single pull type handle located in the upper moulding of the tail gate inner panel is used to unlatch the tail gate. The tail gate is held closed by side mounted latching mechanisms, consisting of two strikers and two helical rotors, with an integral take-up device to assure a tight lock and perfect sealing. Should it become necessary to remove the tail gate window glass because of breakage, refer to Figure 62, then proceed as follows: (1) Lower the rear window glass, then unlock and pull the tail gate down to the fully opened position. (2) Remove the inner trim panel, then remove the retainer washers from each regulator arm. (See Figure 62). (3) Remove the bolts that attach the upper window stops, then slide the stops down and out of the tail gate. (4) Raise the window to facilitate removal and disengage the regulator arms from the window frame. Slide the window and frame out of the tail gate. Disassemble the frame and install new glass. If necessary to replace the run channels, remove the upper and lower run attaching screws, then slide the runs out of the tail gate.

Installation If new run channels are to be installed, slide the chan-

CENTER ANCHOR (REMOVED

RETAINING RING

TORSION RODS (REMOVED)

WINDOW STOP*J ADJUSTING BOLTS (LOWER

EGULATOR ASSEMBLY

` "

¡ •

REGULATOR ARM POWER W I N D O W LIFT MOTOR

RETAINER WASHER

*"7

REGULATOR ARM

/TAIL GATE HELICAL ROTOR

GUIDE BLOCK GLASS FRAME GLASS W I N D O W STOP ADJUSTING BOLTS (UPPER) 57x618

Fig. 62—Tail Gate Assembly

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL nels down into position, then install attaching screws. Snug down but do not tighten. (1) Slide the window and frame into the tail gate far enough to engage the regulator arms. Install the retaining washers to secure. (2) Slide the upper window stops into position, then install the attaching bolts. Do not tighten at this time. (3) Lower the tail gate window to the fully lowered position then close the tail gate. Check the operation of the window operating mechanism and the fit of the window frame in the upper channel. Raise the window until a good seal has been obtained in the run, then tighten the upper stops attaching bolts securely. Do not force the window frame up tight against the upper channel when making this adjustment. If the window operates freely in the run channels, tighten the run attaching screws securely. The tail gate window may be repositioned by loosening the four bolts that attach the regulator assembly to the tail gate. If the window frame binds in the run channel, recheck the adjustment. The run attaching screws are used to adjust fore, aft and tilt. If additional fore or aft adjustment is required at the top of the tail gate, adjust the lock strikers shown in Figure 63, until correct adjustment has been made. As stated previously, the torsion rods assist the operator in the opening and closing of the tail gate. Should it become necessary to remove the torsion rods in order to install new ones, refer to Figure 64, then proceed a s follows: (1) Loosen the screws that attach the right hand hinge to the tail gate and body. Now, raise the tail gate to approximately 6 inches of closing. (This releases the tension on the torsion rods.) (2) Remove the screws previously loosened and slide the hinge away from the torsion rods to expose the rod ends. Now, pull the torsion rods through the center anchor, disengaging the rods from the left hand hinge. Slide the rods out of the center anchor and away from car. It is suggested, that before this operation is done, t h e tail g a t e b e suitably supported. (3) Slide the new torsion bars through the center anchor and into the left hand hinge. (4) Now, slide the right hand hinge into position, and at the same time, engage the ends of the bars in the slot of the hinge. (5) Install the hinge attaching screws and snug down. Lower the tail gate and tighten the hinge screws securely. Removing and Installing the Tail Gate Assembly Should it become necessary to remove and install the tail gate assembly, refer to Figure 62, then proceed as follows: (1) Turn the window operating crank (manually

483

57x619

Fig. 63â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Tail Gate Lock Strikers

operated), or one of the switches (electrically operated) and lower the tail gate window. (2) Remove the torsion rods as described previously. Disconnect the electrical leads, (if so equipped). (3) Remove the screws that attach the left hand hinge to the body and lift the tail gate assembly up and away from the vehicle. Installation (1) Place the tail gate in position and install the hinge to body attaching screws (left hand). Snug down but do not tighten. (2) Install the torsion rods, as described previously, then adjust the position of the tail gate in the body opening. The floating nuts in the tail gate panel provide for slight up and down movement and the tapping plates in the body provide adjustments from side to side and

TORSION RODS (UPPER AND LOWER)

Fig. 64â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Tail Gate Torsion Rods

484

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

fore and aft at the bottom of the tail gate. Further fore and aft adjustment can be obtained, by moving the strikers in or out as desired. (Refer to Figures 63 and 64). (3) After the tail gate has been properly adjusted in the body opening, tighten all screws securely. Removal and Installation of Window Regulator To remove or install the window regulator, proceed as follows: (1) Open the tail gate and remove the manual handle (if so equipped), and the inner trim panel. Remove the outer handle. (2) Remove the retainer washers that hold the regulator arms to the window lower frame. Disengage the arms. (3) Remove the regulator attaching bolts and lift the regulator and motor (if so equipped), out of the tail gate. When reinstalling the regulator, coat all moving parts with lubriplate. Position the regulator in approximate location then install the attaching bolts. Be sure that the regulator is installed in such a manner as to allow travel in both directions.

Removing or Installing Tail Gate Latch Control Cable Should it become necessary to remove and install the tail gate latch control cable, proceed as follows: (1) Open the tail gate and remove the inner trim panel and handle if so equipped. (2) Remove the control cables. (3) Install the new cables and adjust by loosening the screw that holds the adjusting bracket, (located under the inner lip of the gate inner panel) and insert the cable in the proper groove to apply tension. Tighten the screws securely. (4) Reinstall the trim panel and the regulator handle (if so equipped).

Fig. 65â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Removing Front Quarter Window Glass (2 Door Suburban)

21.

SLIDING AND STATIONARY GLASS â&#x20AC;&#x201D;(Suburban)

Removal Remove the sliding glass latch and glass run corner joint cover. Remove the upper cross-head screws from the glass run channel. Carefully pull the glass and the upper portion of the glass run channel out of the body opening and remove the sliding glass, as shown in Figure 65. Remove the handle from the sliding glass by tapping with a rubber mallet. If the stationary glass is to be replaced remove the sliding glass run channel. Exert pressure inward on the glass and carefully push the weatherstrip and glass assembly from the body opening. Work the weatherstrip off the glass and remove old sealer from the weatherstrip groove. Installation Apply a suitable sealing compound in the groove in the weatherstrip. Starting at the corner work the weatherstrip over the stationary glass. Apply sealing compound underneath the outer lip of the weatherstrip. Working inside the car, place the assembly in the body opening. With the use of a fiber wedge, carefully work the outer lip of the weatherstrip over the edge of the body opening. Wipe off excess cement around the edge of the glass and weatherstrip. Tap the handle in place on the sliding glass. Install the glass in the glass run channel. Working inside the car, place the assembly in the body opening. Install the cross-head screws in the groove of the glass run channel. Make certain that the heads of the screws are blew the felt to prevent contact with the edge of the sliding glass. Test the slidinq action of the glass for smooth operation. Then install the sliding window latch and glass run joint cover.

57x620 Fig. 66â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Spare Tire Mounting

BODY AND SHEETMETAL Spare Tire Mountingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Sierra Spectator The spare wheel and tire are mounted up in the right rear fender, as shown in Figure 66. Remove the cover panel to expose wheel, then remove attaching holt and slide wheel and tire out from under Ăender. The attaching bolt automatically centers the wheel in position at installation.

22.

SERVICING THE VINYL PLASTIC WINDOW-(Convertible Models)

The rear window on the Dodge Convertible Coupe is manufactured from a flexible Vinyl Plastic material and to assure maximum visibility and satisfactory service, special attention should be given to cleaning and storage. When it becomes necessary to clean the rear window, the following procedure is recommended: (1) Rinse the surface of the rear window with a cold water spray to remove any particles of grit or soil. (2) Lather the surface with mild soap (Castile) suds with the palm of the hand. Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of soap, then allow to air dry. T h e u s e of towels, sponge or chamois to apply the soap or to dry the surface, should be avoided to prevent the vinyl plastic from becoming scratched. If, after being washed a s described above, and the window is not thoroughly cleaned, a solution of 40% rubbing alcohol and 60% clear water should be used. (3) Rub the surface of the rear window in a circular motion, again using the palm of the hand, along with a generous quantity of the prepared solution. (4) Allow window to air dry before installing on car. When storing a Vinyl Plastic window, either hang up, or roll loosely (no wrinkles) in clean white wrapping paper and store in a cool place.

23.

SERVICING THE CONVERTIBLE COUPE TOP

The switch for lowering or raising the Convertible Coupe top is located on the left side of the instrument panel. To keep the top operating mechanism in good condition, the top should be lowered and raised at

least once a month. Be sure the top is thoroughly dry before lowering. To lower the Convertible top, lift out the top well boot, then proceed a s follows: (1) Be sure car is standing still. (2) Make certain top compartment is entirely free of all objects. (3) Disengage both folding top locking latches (located on each side of the top header) by pulling latch toward you. (4) Push header free of windshield dowl pins (located at extreme left and right sides of windshield), making

485

certain header latches are free of the windshield. (5) Open rear window and lay it carefully in top compartment. (6) Move top control switch lever counter-clockwise and hold in this position until top is fully lowered. (7) Remove top cover from luggage compartment and fasten in position over top compartment. To raise top, proceed as follows: (1) Be sure car is standing still. (2) Remove top compartment cover (boot). (3) Move switch clockwise and hold until top is fully raised. (4) Close rear window. (5) Fold cover, pack in case provided and stow in luggage compartment. (6) Pull the top header down into place over windshield dowl pins (located at extreme left and right sides of windshield) and secure with the two header latches. Never attempt to raise or lower the top while the car is in motion. This practice will

cause considerable damage to the top and mountings. Adjusting the Convertible Coupe Top Five adjustments (see Figure 67) on each side will allow the top to be moved ahead, back, and front portion from side to side and to correct the curvature of the side rail to fit the contour of the rear quarter windows. This could also affect the clearance between cloth top and door. Before making any top adjustments, determine the cause of the difficulty before proceeding, then correct as follows:

Body Alignment An important factor in the proper alignment of the doors and convertible top is the attachment of the body to the frame of the car. Uneven tightening of body bolts, the use of too many or not enough shims, or overtightening of body bolts may result in distortion of the body sill and cause misalignment of the doors and topfitat the header. Therefore, before any adjustments are performed to correct door or top misalignment, be sure that all body bolts are tightened to a torque of 20 foot-pounds. In some cases it may be advisable to loosen the body bolts and drive the car a short distance to permit the body to settle evenly on the frame. Then tighten the bolts to the specified torque. If body shimming is necessary to obtain proper door alignment, this should be done before attempting to make adjustments of the top linkage. Figure 68 illustrates how to correct a door fit which is tight at the top and open at the bottom. If the door fit were open at the top and closed at the bottom, it would be necessary to add shims at the body mounting near the front and rear of the door. In some instances, add shims on the right side of the car and remove them on

FRONT SIDE RAIL PIVOT

FRONT SIDE RAIL HINGE

REAR SIDE RAIL HINGE

Small movement forward or backward for smooth top raising or lowering adjustment. This could also affect clearance between cloth top and door. Caution: unless properly adjusted, breakage of the rear side rail hinge will result.

VERTICAL PROP LINK

Stop screw can be adjusted to bring side rails into proper alignment.

Stop screw provides adjustment of side rails to fit quarter window.

Can be adjusted up or down to obtain proper leveling and centering of the top.

POWER LINK Can be adjusted toward front or rear to control f o r w a r d travel of the top.

8 in m

ACTUATED BY HYDRAULIC PISTONS

LOCKING CAM AND STOP The cams and stops lock the top header bar, top and windshield header moulding.

57x621

Fig. 67—Top Alignment and Linkage Adjustment

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL

487

After side rail alignment, turn both the front and rear screws sufficiently tight to remove any slack in the linkage. Then tighten the locking nut. Top Header Panel Adjustment

SHIM BODY BOLT HERE TO CORRECT THIS FIT S4X8IS

F¡g. 68—Body and Door Opening Adjustment (Typical)

the left side or vice versa. However, the important thing to keep in mind is that shimming of the body as illustrated changes the fitting of the top header at the windshield frame. Power Link Adjustment With the top and all door and quarter glasses in the raised position, carefully inspect both door glasses and quarter glasses for proper fit to the top side rail seals and vertical seals. Adjustments for proper sealing of the quarter glass to the roof rail weatherstrip is made at the power link adjustment bracket with the top in the partially raised position. See insert "E" of Figure 67. To decrease clearance between the quarter glass and roof rail weatherstrip, move the bracket forward. The adjustment should be approximately the same on both sides. Roof Side Rail Alignment — Prop Link Adjustment The adjustment for proper sealing of the roof side rail seals above the door glass and of the header panel to the windshield locking plunger cam and stops are mainly controlled by the vertical prop links which are fastened in the quarter panel pockets. See (E) in inset of Figure 67. Two additional adjustments also affect the folding top side rail seals at the top of the door glass. They are the front side rail hinge stop screws and the rear side rail hinge stop screws. See insert (C) and (D) of Figure 67. If the front side rail hinge joints above the door glass are jacknifed open when the top is in the raised position, correct leveling of the side rails can be effected by lowering the prop link bracket. However, when adjusting one vertical prop link, the same or practically the same adjustment should be made to the opposite vertical prop link. This is necessary in order to maintain parallelism between the header panel and windshield frame, and in addition to maintain lateral alignment of the header panel stops with relation to the windshield plunger. Before making this adjustment loosen the top header at the windshield to remove tension from the linkage.

After the previous adjustments have been performed and the header panel does not close easily on the locating dowels, further adjustment is provided to move the header panel forward or backward. Loosen the header panel to side rail screws and shift the header panel forward or backward as required, see inset (B) of Figure 67. If further adjustment is required, it will be necessary to add or remove shims at number 1 and 2 body mountings. Adding shims at the number 1 body mounting and removing shims at the number 2 body mounting will tip the windshield forward. After shimming the body adjust doors if necessary. Care of the Top Fabric—The top fabric should be brushed occasionally to remove dust and road dirt. An art gum eraser will help in the removal of certain spots and stains. The top material can be washed with a sponge or brush. Use lukewarm water and mild soap suds. Before top is lowered, make sure the top fabric is completely dry after cleaning. Dampness may cause formation of mildew and damage the closely-folded fabric. 24. SERVICING THE CONVERTIBLE TOP FOLDING MECHANISM The electric-hydraulic top folding mechanism, as shown in Figure 69, consists of two cylinders, a piping system, an electric motor, a pump and reservoir assembly and a double-throw rotary switch. The wiring and motor are protected by a separate circuit breaker. (See Figure 2 on Page 84.) If difficulty is encountered in raising or lowering the top with the motor running, and sufficient fluid in the reservoir, and the pivot points are not binding, the cause is probably due to improper linkage alignment and adjustment. The electric motor is the reversible type. The pump is a two-direction, reversing motor type and is connected with the cylinders by flexible lines and tubing. A valve and port assembly in the reservoir directs the flow of the fluid in tho system, as shown in Figure 69. The motor, pump and reservoir assembly can be replaced as a unit or the electric motor can be replaced separately. The cylinders are sealed units which must be replaced as assemblies. Fluid Level—Insufficient fluid, or air in the system, may cause the top to raise slowly or the pump and motor may be noisy during the operation. Check the fluid level in ihe reservoir. If low, check for a leak due to a broken line or loose connection in piping. If either

488

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL REAR CONTROL LÌNKj

Fig. 69—Electric Hydraulic Top Folding Mechanism (Typical)

condition exists, replace the line or tighten the connection. Then fìll reservoir until fluid runs out of fìller hole. Use only super brake fluid. After filling the reservoir, raise and lower the top several times to force out air that may be trapped in the system. Always check fluid level when top is lowered. Removing or Installing the Rear Door Window (4 door hardtop) Should it become necessary to remove the rear door window for repair or installation of new glass, refer to Figure 70, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the window regulator and door handle, using Tool C-3448. (2) Remove the remote lock control handle and arm

Fig. 71—Removing or Installing Run Channel (Front)

rest. (If car is equipped with power windows, remove door control switch and disconnect control wires). (3) Remove the screws that attach the garnish moulding to the door panel, then lift moulding up and away from door. (4) Using a screwdriver or tool C-3448 pry off the trim panel, then carefully remove weather proofing plastic cover. (5) Remove the bolts that attach the window upper stop to the inner panel. Slide stop down and out of the door panel. Remove arm rest supports and the window lower stop. (6) Lower the window, then remove the two bolts that attach the front run channel to the door panel. Pull the upper portion of the run channel back toward the rear to disengage from the window nylon roller. Slide run UPPER FRAME

WEATHERSTRIP REAR RUN ADJUSTMENT

REMOTE LOCK CONTROL

DOOR LATCH

FRONT RUN ADJUSTMENT

REAR RUN ' REGULATOR ARM CHANNEL

ARMJREST SUPPORTS DOOR LATCH REMOTE CONTROL 'X

LOWER FRAME

``-`ì. RUN ADJUSTING NUT

WINDOW^REGULATOR LOWER STOP

LOW RUN ADJUSTMENT CENTER RUN SUPPORT 57x685

Fig. 70-—Rear Door Assembly

[CENTER CHANNEL SUPPORT A N D ADJUSTING BOLTS (TILT)

57x687

Fig. 72—Removing or Installing Rear Door Window

BODY AND SHEETMETAL channel down and out of door# as shown in Figure 71. (7) Loosen the two bolts that attach the rear run channel to the door panel. With the window at bottom of travel, remove the weatherstrip from the outer panel. (Attached by screws or clips). Raise the window to full travel. (8) Slide window toward the rear to disengage regulator arm roller from its channel on the lower part of the window frame, at the same time, raise the window slightly at the rear. (9) Slide window out of the door, by tilting slightly and working the nylon rollers past the inner door panel, as shown in Figure 72. (10) Remove the rear run channel bolts and slide channel out of door. (This need only be done if installing a new run channel). (See Figure 73). Inspect all parts for wear or damage. If inspection

157x688

Fig. 73—Removing or Installing Run Channel (Rear)

489

reveals the need for removing the center run channel, remove as follows: (11) Remove the bolts that attach the center run and support bracket to the door panel, (after scribing location marks as an aid at reassembly.) Slide center run out of door through the access opening in the panel, as shown in Figure 74. To install a new window glass, proceed as follows: (12) Remove the screws and bolts that attach the front and rear of the window upper frame to the lower window frame. Separate frames and remove glass from weatherstrip. Install new glass and reassemble. Check the condition of the nylon guide on the bottom of the lower window. Remove guide attaching bolts and install new guide if required. To reassemble the rear door window, refer to Figure 70, then proceed as follows: (1) Slide the center run channel and support into door panel and up into position, then align scribe marks. Install retaining bolts and tighten securely. (Be sure the upper end of support is located in front of bracket.) (2) Slide the window assembly into door (being carefull not to damage weatherstrip) with the nylon rollers entering recesses between inner and outer panel. (Refer to Figure 72. Lower window down into door. (3) Move the window forward to engage the regulator arm roller with the lower portion of the window frame. Lower window about ½ way down. (4) Insert the rear run channel into door panel and up into position (if removed). Install attaching bolts and draw down finger tight. (5) Slide the front run channel into door and up into position, engaging the nylon roller. Push run forward into position, then install run attaching bolt. Snug down but do not tighten. (6) Slide the window upper stop up into position and secure with attaching bolts. Snug down but do not tighten.

Adjusting the Rear Door Window (4 door hardtop)

SUPPORT CENTER RUN WINDOW STOP (LOWER)

57x689

Fig. 74—Removing or Installing Center Run and Support

After the rear door window has been installed, refer to Figure 70, and adjust door glass as follows: (1) With the run attaching nuts and bolts (front and rear) finger tight, and the upper stop loose, raise the window and check the contact with the top weatherstrip. (2) If the top of the window frame does not enter the weatherstrip properly, adjust the center run support by moving lower portion in or out until correct contact has been made. Moving the support out toward the outer panel will tilt the upper edge of window frame i n toward the weatherstrip. Moving the support i n toward the inner panel will tilt the window out away from weatherstrip.

490

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(3) If more adjustment is required than can be obtained from the movement of the center run support, loosen the bolts that attach the center run guide to the lower window frame. Move guide in or out until correct contact has been made. Tighten bolts securely after adjustment. (4) To adjust the window for a good weatherseal, check the contact of the weatherstrip and upper window frame. A full contact should be made from the front of window along the curve of the roof. Also check weatherseal at the leading edge of rear window where it contacts the front window. This must be evenly spaced. If necessary, shift window slightly toward the front or rear until correct position has been obtained. Tighten both channel upper attaching nuts securely. (5) Now, lower the rear window, then tighten both lower channel attaching bolts securely. (6) Raise and lower the window several times to be sure window operates freely and has a good weatherseal. (7) Lower window until upper frame is even with panel opening, then install outer panel weatherstrip. Raise window slightly and install lower stop. Tighten attaching bolt securely. (8) Raise the window until a good seal has been obtained with roof weatherseal, then tighten upper stop securely. Do not force window against seal. After window has been adjusted and positioned, continue to assemble the door as follows: (9) Install the arm rest support bracket and weather proof plastic on door panel. (10) Install springs over regulator shafts with large diameter toward trim panel. Install trim panel and arm rest. (11) Slide the garnish moulding into position, with the lip over the edge of the inner panel. Install screws and tighten securely. Reconnect the power window control switch. (If so equipped). (12) Slide protector washers over regulator and remote handle shafts then install handles. Slide remote lock control lever over shaft and tighten set screw securely.

Removing or Installing the Rear Door Window Regulator Should it become necessary to remove the Hardtop rear door window regulator because of damage or wear, refer to Figure 70, then follow steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 a s described in Removing or Installing the Rear Door Window, then proceed a s follows: ¢ 1) Remove the bolt that holds the window lower stop to the center run support. Lower window and disengage regulator arm from channel in lower window frame. (2) Remove the ¾ 6 inch bolts that attach the window regulator to the inner panel.

(3) Raise window enough to clear regulator and brace with a wood block. (4) Now, slide window regulator shaft out of door panel then lower regulator down and remove through access hole in door panel. (If vehicle is equipped with Power Windows, disconnect motor leads.) When installing new window regulator coat all moving parts with lubriplate then slide up into position in door. Install attaching bolts and tighten securely. Continue to reassemble door as follows: (5) Raise the window and remove the support block. Lower window and engage regulator arm and the nylon roller on the lower frame with the front run channel. (6) With the window partially raised, install lower stop and readjust as described previously. (7) Continue to assemble door by following steps 9, 10, 11 and 12 of assembly.

Removing or Installing the Rear Door Remote Control, Lock and Latch Should it become necessary to remove the rear door remote control lock and latch, for repair or installation of new parts, refer to Figure 70, then proceed as follows: (1) Disassemble the door, as described in steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 of removing or installing the rear door window. Remove the lower windows stop, then lower window and allow to settle on bottom of door. (2) Remove the outer door handle attaching nuts and disengage from door. (3) Remove the 2 ‰ inch bolts that attach the remote door lock control to the inner panel. Disengage control and remote rod from inner panel. (4) Remove the two screws that attach the remote latch control to the inner panel. (5) Remove the screws that attach the door latch to the door, then slide latch into door. Raise window sufficiently to clear latch mechanism. Disengage remote rods from latch and slide out of door panel. Remove latch. V/hen installing remote controls and latch, be sure and coat all moving parts with a generous amount of lubriplate. Then reassemble, using reverse disassembly procedure.

25. SERVICING THE FRONT DOOR WINDOWS —(Special Club Coupe, Special 4 Door Sedan and Convertible) Should it become necessary to remove or install the front door window for installation of new window glass or excessive wear of operating parts, refer to Figure 75, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the window regulator and door handle, using Tool C-3448, then remove the arm rest. (If car is equipped with Power Windows, disconnect switch.) (2) Remove the garnish moulding attaching screws,

BODY AND SHEETMETAL

W I N D O W FRAME

REMOTE CONTROL SCREWS FRAME ATTACHING NUT A N D WASHER

RUN CHANNEL ADJUSTING BOLT (UPPER)

FRAME ATTACHING BOLT (ON FRONT OF DOOR FACE)

REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT BOLT-UPPER (REMOVE PLUG) ARM REST SUPPORTS

REGULATOR ATTACHING ' SCREWS

ADJUSTMENT BOLT LOWER (REMOVE PLUG) ^ _

FRAME MOUNTING SCREWS] LOWER STOP SCREWS RUN CHANNEL ADJUSTING BOLTS (LOWER)

57x690

Fig. 75—Front Door Assembly

then lift garnish moulding up and away from door. (3) Remove the door trim panel, using Tool C-3448. Carefully remove the plastic weatherproof liner. Now, remove the arm rest supports. (Black—front and white —rear). (4) Remove the bolts that attach the upper window stops to the inner panel. Now, slide the upper stops out of door. Remove the window lower stop, then lower the window down far enough to remove the outer panel weatherstrip and remove. (5) Using a sharp knife, cut the door weatherstrip at the exact break line of the vent window and door panel. Now, remove the bolt that holds the vent window frame to the face of the door. (Remove rubber plug to expose attaching bolt.) (6) Remove the nut, washer and spacer that attaches the rear portion of the vent window to the door panel.

VENT W I N D O W ADJUSTING NUT

FRONT RUN C H A N N E L ^ . ` ¯ 3 J f c Ä è Š 57x691

F¡g. 76—Removing or Installing Vent Window Frame

491

(Accessible through upper opening.) Remove the bolt and washer that holds the lower portion of the vent window to the adjusting bracket. (7) Using pliers, bend the inner door panel out away from around the vent window frame at the front, to increase working room, then slide vent window and frame out of door panel by twisting slightly to disengage front window guide from channel, as shown in Figure 76. (8) Raise the door window until at top of travel, then disengage lower window frame from regulator arm and rear run channel. Tilt window either front or rear and slide out of door. (9) Separate upper and lower window frames then remove window glass. Install new glass, using care not to damage weatherstrip. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as required. To reinstall door window, refer to Figure 75, then proceed as follows: (1) Coat the rear run channel and lower window channel with lubriplate, then position window regulator in the extreme up position and slide window into door front end first. (2) Engage regulator arms with lower frame channels and nylon roller with rear run. Lower window about half way down. (3) Slide the vent window frame into door, then twist slightly to engage run with the window front guide. Work down into position. Install the front attaching bolt and snug down. (4) Install the spacer, washer and nut that holds the rear portion of the vent window to panel. Before tightening, be sure there is a ½ inch clearance between the vent window run and the inner panel. Tighten nut securely. (5) Install the bolt and washer that attaches the lower vent window run channel to the adjusting bracket. Snug down bolt. (6) Lower window far enough to install weatherstrip on outer panel. Now raise window slightly until top edge of window frame is even with window opening, then install lower stop. (7) Raise window to full upper travel, then install upper stops. Work the window up and down several times to be sure window operates freely. If window binds, adjust the rear run, top and bottom, until window is free. (8) Close the door and check fit of window against weatherstrip. If necessary, tilt window in or out until a weatherseal fit has been obtained. This is accomplished by adjusting the lower window run by loosening the adjusting bolts and tilting window in or out until a good weatherseal has been obtained.

•

492

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

(9) Tighten all nuts and bolts securely then install plugs. Using a good grade of rubber cement, repair the door weatherstrip that was cut to allow the removal of the vent window frame. (10) Using pliers, bend the metal around the vent window frame until a smooth surface has been obtained. (11) Reinstall the arm rest support brackets and weatherproof plastic liner. Slide the springs over the regulator and remote control shafts and install the trim panel. (Connect Power Window Switch, if so equipped). (12) Slide the garnish moulding down into position and install attaching screws. Tighten securely. Now install the window and door regulator handles and arm rest.

UPPER STOP ( W I N D O W PORTION) UPPER STOP BOLT (BODY PORTION) CENTER RUN CHANNEL REGULATOR^ARMi

QUARTER WINDOW

^WINDOW FRAME A N D CHANNEL! W I N D O W REGULATOR FRONT CHANNEL ADJUSTING BOLT (UPPER) `V

I Sit

CENTER RUN SUPPORT BRACKET

Removing or Installing Door Latch To remove the front door latch, refer to Figure 75, then proceed as follows: (1) Disassemble the door, as described in servicing the front door windows, steps 1, 2 and 3. (2) Remove the screws that attach the remote latch to the inner panel, then raise window to the top of travel. (3) Remove the screws that hold the latch to the rear face of door. Reach up inside door and disengage latch from outside door handle mechanism. Raise the remote control rod and disengage from latch. Now, slide latch out of door. When installing, coat all moving parts with lubriplate and install in door. Reassemble in reverse of disassembly and steps 11 and 12 of reassembly.

Removing or Installing Window Regulator To remove the window regulator, refer to Figure 75, then proceed as follows: (1) Disassemble the door as described in servicing the front door windows, steps 1, 2 and 3. (2) Remove the lower window stop, then lower the window to bottom of travel. Disconnect regulator arms, and raise window by hand to top of travel. Install tool or block to hold window in up position. (3) Remove the bolts that attach the regulator to the inner panel. Now, slide regulator down and out of door. When reinstalling regulator, coat all parts with lubriplate, then install in reverse of disassembly procedure previously covered and steps 11 and 12 of Assembly of Door.

Removing and Installing the Quarter Window (2 Door H.I.) Should it become necessary to remove the quarter window on the 2 door hard top, refer to Figure 77, then proceed as follows: (1) Remove the arm rest, seat cushion and seat back. (2) Remove the regulator handle with Tool C-3448, or, if equipped with Power Windows, disconnect switch. (3) Remove the screws that attach the garnish moulding. Lift moulding up and away from window.

FRONT CHANNELADJUSTING BOLTS (LOWER)

H Fig. 77—Quarter Panel (2-door H.T.) (4) Carefully remove the quarter trim panel. Now, remove the window lower stop. Position the window about half way down and remove the bolts and nuts that attach the front run channel. Disengage upper stud from opening in panel and nylon roller on window frame. Slide front run down and out of panel. (5) Lower the window and disengage regulator arm. Now, using a screwdriver, remove the cuter panel weatherstrip (held by clips). Remove the window upper stop. (½ on window and half on quarter panel). (6) Remove the lower attaching screw that holds the center run to the support, push run forward, then lift window up at the front and out of quarter panel. Disengage rear of window from plastic run, then slide window out of quarter panel. Check the condition of the nylon rollers, and center guide. Install new parts as required. Install new window glass if required. To install quarter window, refer to Figure 77, then proceed as follows: (1) Raise the window regulator approximately ½ way. (2) Slide the rear end of window into panel, engaging guide pins in plastic guide. Push back as far as possible then lower front end of window into panel and down. (3) Lower the window all the way down and engage the regulator arm. Now raise the window slightly and install the front run channel in the opening, engaging the nylon roller. Slide up into position. Install attaching nuts and snug down. (4) Push the center channel over and engage the window center guide. Install screw and tighten securely.

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL (5) Raise the window ½ way and install the window lower stop. (6) Install half the upper stop on the window frame. Install the remaining half of the upper stop on the body. (7) Lower the window to the bottom, then install the outer panel weatherstrip by snapping into position. Raise and lower the window several times to be sure window slides freely. (8) Raise the window and check the fit of the window against the roof rail weatherstrip. If the upper leading corner gouges the roof rail weatherstrip, the front run channel is too high and will have to be lowered. (9) After window has been properly adjusted, install the trim panel, seat back and arm rest. Install regulator handle. (If car is equipped with power windows, reinstall the control switch.) (10) Slide garnish moulding into position and install retaining screws. Tighten securely. (11) Reinstall the rear seat, then clean window, using a suitable solvent. Removing or Installing the Quarter Side Window (Club Coupe) Should it become necessary to remove or install the Quarter window for the installation of window glass or worn or damaged parts, proceed as follows: (1) Remove the rear seat cushion and arm rest. (2) Remove the garnish moulding attaching screws, then slide the lower moulding out and away from window opening. Now, slide the upper moulding out of position and away from opening. (3) Using Tool C-3448, remove the window regulator handle. Now, carefully remove the trim panel. (4) Disconnect top window channel from opening and remove. Disconnect side channel and remove in same manner. (5) Remove the window lower stop. Remove the lower forward channel from the "B" post by raising slightly to unhook, then sliding down and out through opening. (6) Loosen the rear channel, lower bolt, lower the window and disengage regulator arm, then disengage from rear channel. Slide window out of opening by tilting downward on the rear end and raising the front. (7) Disassemble window and lower frame and install new glass. To install Quarter Side Window, proceed as follows: (1) Slide the window into opening with the rear end down. (2) Straighten window and engage with rear run channel. (3) Lower the window to the bottom of travel, and engage the regulator arms. Now, raise window slightly and install window lower stop. (4) Slide the lower front run into panel and up into

493

position and at the same time engage run with guide. Snap lower guide into position. (5) Install the upper and side glass channel, then raise window to hold the channels in position. Install arm rest supports. Tighten rear channel attaching bolt. (6) If necessary, loosen the regulator attaching screws and slightly shift the position of regulator to correctly position the glass. (7) Install trim panel, regulator handle tension spring, and arm rest. (8) Install the regulator handle. Install the upper garnish moulding and secure with attaching screws. Slide the lower moulding into position and install screws. Tighten securely. (The pressure of the garnish moulding against the top and side glass run holds it in position.) (9) Run the window up and down several times to be sure window operates freely. (10) Install rear seat cushion and clean window glass, using a suitable solvent. Door Ventilator Adjustment The door ventilator can be adjusted by first removing the garnish moulding and the door trim panel. Make the necessary adjustment at the support arm lock nuts, shown in Figure 76. After the adjustment has been made, tighten lock nuts securely.

26. SEALING COMPOUNDS Super Rubber Cement—This cement may be used where a strong bonding of rubber parts to painted or unpainted steel surfaces is desired. It can be used for such purposes as the attachment of weather-stripping on doors and luggage compartment lid, or for the attachment of felt pads. Windshield Rubber Sealer—A light viscosity, colorless, rubber expander, this sealer can be used where rubber is confined between a glass and metal channel, such as on the windshield and rear window glass assembled in one-piece type weatherstrips. When applied to the edge of the rubber, it will expand the rubber within 15 to 20 minutes. This sealer will not harm paint or chrome finish and can easily be removed with a cloth before it sets. Perfect Seal Sealing Compound—This sealer can be used for all types of threaded joints, gaskets and machined joints. The compound never dries out—never sets hard. It is not soluble in gasoline, oil, anti-freeze solutions, or water. It prevents corrosion, protects against contraction without seepage or leaks and can be aoplied with the brush supplied in the lid of container. Body Seam Sealers (For External Sealing)— Sealers for this purpose are available through local sources. These commercial sealers can be used along welded joints, exterior roof rails, exterior belt lines, B-post welds, weatherstripping, and floor seams. It can also be used for caulking station wagons. Upon drying,

494

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

this type of material forms a tough skin which can be painted with a touch-up brush. Heavy Sealing Putty (For Interior Sealing)— This material, available at most hardware stores, should be a heavy, fibrous, putty-like compound, which can be formed or rolled into pellets, or long string shapes. It is adaptable for covering large openings like moulding-clip holes. Other compounds, which may be used for these purposes, are the household caulking compounds which do not completely harden, Dum-Dum, or body undercoating materials. However, these latter compounds cannot be painted. Before sealing, always clean all surfaces to be cemented with unleaded gasoline. Do not use kerosene, as this liquid leaves a thin film of oil which will prevent adequate adhesion of the sealer. 27. BODY SEALING PROCEDURES 7. Front Vent Wing Pivot Pins—Seal the openings around these pins with Heavy Sealing Putty. Weatherstrip — It may be necessary to properly position the weatherstrip at the top of the front vent wing. To do this, insert a shim between the retainer and the weatherstrip to obtain a better fit. Use liquid soap around the moulding to lubricate the weatherstrip. When reinstalling the weatherstrip, use a rubber mallet if necessary. 2. Windshield—One-Piece Type Weatherstrip Remove the windshield moulding. Seal the weatherstrip against the body opening by carefully working a thin coating of Windshield Rubber Sealer, or Body Seam Sealer, between the body edge and the rubber moulding. Or, lift the lip of the rubber weatherstrip where it contacts the body metal, and use a nozzle-type applicator (sealer gun) to force the sealer deeply around the entire edge. It is rarely necessary to reseal between the glass and the weatherstrip, unless the glass has been replaced. If faulty sealing of the glass to the weatherstrip has caused a leak, remove the windshield garnish moulding and apply sealer as far down as possible between the inner weatherstrip and the glass for a considerable distance on each side of the leakage point. Clean off excess sealer with a rag. Reinstall the chrome moulding. 3. Windshield Wiper Pivots Inspect the gasket between the windshield wiper pivot housing and cowl to see if it is out of position. If leakage is evident at that point under the cowl, remove the wiper housing and install a new gasket coated with windshield sealer. 4. Leak at Deck Lid Leakage around the lid is usually caused by insufficient

contact between the deck lid and the weatherstrip, which may indicate the need for refitting the lid (see Pags 467, of this Section) or replacing the weatherstrip. Care should be taken not to stretch the weatherstrip during replacement, especially at the corners. 5. Drip Moulding Check the entire length of this moulding for possible openings. Using a thin wooden paddle, or a nozzle type applicator, seal such openings with Body Seam Sealer. A caulking gun may also be used. Touch up the newlysealed points with paint to match the color of the body. 6. B-Post Weld This weld is below the center of the drip moulding. Apply Body Seam Sealer along the welded seam. 7. Cowl Panel Joint Clean the seamed area thoroughly and apply Heavy Sealing Putty or Body Seam Sealer. Be sure to apply the sealer over the hood hinge bracket and along the seam to the rear end of the front fender. 8. Cowl Inspect the various openings in the cowl for possible leakage. Apply Heavy Sealing Putty as necessary. 9. Door Hinges Check the sealer on the door hinges at the pillar post. The sealer should be filled flush with pillar post. This should be done after door fitting, as sealer may become cracked or loose. Reseal as necessary. Water testing a car should be done by sections. Working on small areas, it is possible to locate the points which require sealing. The correct method of water testing a car should be from the bottom up, instead of from the top down. A strong force of water should never be played on the car, since a perfectly sealed car may leak under this condition. It is advisable, when checking the leaks in a car, to start with the windshield wiper pivots, windshield, vent wings and then the remainder of the body. Belt Moulding A hand type sealing compound should be used on the belt moulding. The rear belt moulding is attached to the body by screws and nuts accessible from the luggage compartment. Sealing at the screws is accomplished by sealing washers. Tighten the nuts as necessary. Floor Pan Area Road splash can enter the body through any openings in the floor pan seams. In most cases the need to seal can be determined by visual inspection of the sealer at the welded seams.

BODY A N D SHEETMETAL In some location. and the applying

28.

instances, it is advisable to water test the All traces of water or dirt must be removed area thoroughly cleaned and dried before any sealing compound.

CLEANING INTERIOR UPHOLSTERY

Most stains can be removed quite easily from fabrics while they are fresh and have not hardened and set into the fabric. An exception is mud or clay, which should be allowed to dry so that most of it can be brushed off. It is also very helpful, though often not possible, to know the nature of the staining matter so that the proper solvent may be used. Most common stains can be removed either with a dry cleaning solvent, such as kar-kleen, fabric cleaner or carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid, or with a water solution containing onehalf of 1% of a laundry-type detergent, such as vel, breeze, or dreft. Thus, if the nature of the staining matter can only be guessed at and a dry cleaning fluid does not remove the stain, it should then be cleaned with a one-half of 1% solution of a detergent in water, or vice versa. When using a detergent, do not use one containing a bleach as this could discolor the fabric. As most detergents contain a certain amount of bleach, caution should be exercised as to the amount used. Some of the more common upholstery stains can be removed as follows: (1) Candy, Chocolate or Ice Cream Stains. Scrape off as much of the staining matter as possible with a dull knife. Clean with a one-half of 1 % solution of a laundry-type detergent in warm water. General Instructions: Use a piece of clean cotton cheesecloth approximately 3" x 3". Squeeze most of the liquid from the fabric and it is less likely to leave a ring. Wipe the soiled fabric very lightly with a lifting motion. Always work from the outside toward the center of the spot. Turn the cheesecloth over as soon as one side becomes stained to prevent working the staining matter back into the cleaned portion of the fabric. Use a new piece of cheesecloth as soon as both sides become stained. (2) Grease, Oil, or Tar Stains. Scrape off as much of the staining matter as possible with a dull knife. Clean with fabric cleaner, Part No. 680183 (pint cans), or Part No. 680184 (gallon cans). Follow General instructions as listed in No. 1 above. If grease, oil, or tar stains cannot be removed satisfactorily with fabric cleaner on a certain type of fabric, use carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid. The same procedure can be followed as with fabric cleaner. Caution: Carbon tetrachloride is v e r y toxic to b r e a t h e . S i n c e fabric c l e a n e r contains a l a r g e proportion of carbon tetrachloride, a d e q u a t e ventilation must b e p r o v i d e d w h e n

495

either of these c l e a n i n g fluids a r e used. A fan should b e set to blow directly across t h e a r e a in which the c l e a n i n g is d o n e . To p r e v e n t skin c r a c k i n g from t h e u s e of these c l e a n i n g fluids, a p p l y a l a n o l i n type skin c r e a m to t h e h a n d s after using t h e c l e a n i n g fluids. (3) Lipstick or Rouge Stains. First work white vaseline into the staining matter to loosen it. Then clean with fabric cleaner or carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid as recommended in No. 2 above. (4) Mud or Clay. Allow the mud or clay to dry completely. Then, brush it off with a soft bristled brush. Clean with a one-half of 1% solution of detergent in water as recommended in No. 1 above. When cleaning by any of the methods outlined above, never squeeze the liquid from the cleaning cloth back into the container of cleaning fluid, and never dip the cleaning cloth back into the container of cleaning fluid after the cloth has contacted the stain. Be sure that the cleaning fluid has no impurities and is not discolored before using it. If particles of the staining matter become locked between the fibres of the fabric, it may be necessary to use a clean soft bristled brush instead of the cheese cloth with the cleaning fluid.

Cleaning of Vinyl Interior Trim The following are recommendations for cleaning plastic trim: (1) Grease, Oil, or Tar Stains. These stains should be cleaned as soon as possible or they will migrate into the plastic and leave a permanent discoloration on the plastic surface. These stains should be cleaned with either fabric cleaner or kar kleen, as recommended above. (2) The satin grained vinyl should be cleaned as soon as it appears to be getting dirty. Otherwise the dirt particles will get rubbed into the small grain crevices and be almost impossible to remove. The dirty vinyl trim should be cleaned with a piece of clean cotton cheese cloth dipped in a sudsy solution of a non-alkaline detergent in water. If the vinyl plastic trim still does not clean up, a clean brush with many fairly stiff bristles should be used in place of the cheese cloth.

Removal of Dirt from Ivory Plastic Trim Panels The ivory plastic trim should be cleaned in the same manner as other vinyl interior trim, however, if the dirt has been rubbed into the grain so that it is not possible to remove with the detergent solution, a cleaner may be used. The seat beading and door trim panel inserts on the Custom Royal Series and the Custom Suburban Series are made of a plastic material. A cleanser such as mentioned above should not be used on these surfaces. Any abrasive cleansing material will cause the

â&#x20AC;˘

496

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

material to peel. To clean use plain water or water with a mild soap solution.

29. PAINT FINISH CONDITIONS Dark Spots Appearing on Paint (Polychromatic) This condition can be caused by foreign particles that are carried through the air and settle on the flat surfaces of the paint. If any of this foreign substance, containing acid-like particles, is allowed to remain on the paint for any length of time, it may result in a spotting condition. This spotting condition is caused by the reaction of such particles with the aluminum, used in all polychromatic paints, causing the aluminum flakes to disappear, leaving the base color. These same acid-like particles can also attack a non-metallic paint, but it will usually result in an etched condition rather than a discoloration. In view of the foregoing, it is advisable to wash cars frequently to prevent the possibility of such conditions occurring.

30. REMOVING AND INSTALLING HEADLINING It will be necessary to remove the rear window on all models except the suburban, 2 door hard top and 4 door hard top. Remove the dome light assembly and rear seat cushion assembly as well as the sun visors, side and upper windshield garnish moulding. Club Coupe Models — Remove quarter window garnish mouldings. After rear glass has been removed pull rear window weatherstrip out at the top and down the sides of the rear window opening as shown in Figure 78. Pull the headlining from under the rear package shelf and away from the rear quarter panel and wheel housing. With a screwdriver pry the headlining retainer strip away from the roof rail above the doors. Insert a piece of stiff wire, about eight inches long, between the retainer strip and headlining to lift the headlining off the retaining barbs as shown in Figure 79. Pull the headlining off the barbs at the windshield header. The rear headlining bow on all models is held in

Foreign Material in Paint In instances where minute particles of foreign material have embedded themselves in the horizontal surfaces of the paint, they are quite likely abrasives, such as metal particles, that have been carried through the air. If these particles are allowed to remain on the paint surface for any length of time in the presence of moisture, a chemical reaction will take place, resulting in the metal particles eating into the paint surface. Early removal of this material by a thorough washing will prevent this from happening. When the above described condition is encountered in the field, it is often mistakenly diagnosed as rust coming up from the metal below the paint.

55PI325¿

Fig. 78—Removing Headlining at Rear Window Opening

Fig. 79—Using Stiff Wire to Remove Headlining from Retainer

55P1020 Fig. 80—Mark Clip Hole When Removing Bow from Roof Rail

BODY AND SHEETMETAL

497

iiïitiii Fig. 81—Bending Locking Tab Up to Remove Clip from Bow End

position at the center by a retaining clip. Bend the clip to free the bow, spring the bow and remove the end from the clip hole in the roof rail. Two holes are provided in the roof rails. As the bows are removed, mark the clip hole that is used as shown in Figure 80. After the headlining and bows are removed from the car, inspect the roof pad silencer, if loose, cement as necessary. If a new headlining is to be installed, the clips must be removed from the bow ends, as shown in Figure 81, to permit removal of the bow from the listing. Bend the clip locking tab up and remove the clip. Starting at the rear of the headlining, remove each bow from the old listing and install it in position in the new headlining. This procedure assures correct installation of the bows. Before installing the bows in the new headlining, trim the excess listing even with the edges of the headlining as shown in Figure 82. Notch the headlining at the front and rear ends to indicate the center of the material by making small

-:V* -`:,'*'v;

¯C :" ¯·'i

Fig. 82—Trimming Excess Listings Even With Edges of Headlining

Fig. 83—Marking Center of Each End With Small V¯Shaped Cuts

55P1207 F¡g. 84—Cutting Hole in Listing for Support Clip

V-shaped cuts, as shown in Figure 83. Use these marks as guides to properly center the headlining. Installation When installing the headlining, begin at the rear of the car. Install the rear bow in the holes previously marked in the roof rail. Cut a small hole in the middle of the listing for the rear headlining-bow-support-clip, as shown in Figure 84. This will prevent the headlining from wrinkling. Bend the retainer clip around the rear bow. Install the remaining bows, making sure to stretch the headlining evenly so that approximately the same amount of material hangs down both sides. Apply cement to the windshield header bar. Wait until it becomes tacky. Then stretch the headlining forward and over the cemented area, and onto the barbs on the windshield header. Make sure the first seam of the headlining is straight. Cut holes in the headlining for the visor retaining screws and pivot. Install visors before tucking in the

•

498

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

f55PIQ25l

Fig. 85—Trimming Excess Material at Windcord

corners of the headlining at the top of the windshield posts to prevent tearing the headlining when tightening the screws. Install garnish mouldings. In most cases the listing is longer than necessary. Cut the material at the ends to prevent wrinkling at the seams when it is tucked or cemented in place. Cut the listing from the end up to the clip. Use c a r e to prevent cutting the listing too far up the bow and ruining the fit of the headlining. After listings are cut, start at the front and trim the headlining so that only ½ o 1 inch of material hangs down below the door windcord on all models except the Club Coupes. See Figure 85. Use a dull putty knife to tuck the first and second seam between the roof side rail and retainer, as shown in Figure 86. Tuck the remaining material in place. When one man is performing the installation, alternate from one side to the other, completing one section at a time; make certain the seams are straight. As the work progresses, the material should be kept free of

55PÌÖ27

Fig. 87—Cementing Material to Underside of Side Rails at Quarter Windows

wrinkles until all of the headlining is tucked in place between the roof rail and the retainer. Club Coupe Models —Apply headlining cement to the underside of the roof rails from the door openings to the rear of the quarter window, as shown in Figure 87. When the cement is tacky, press the material in place on the cemented surface and tuck it in between the quarter window glass run channel and the roof rail. The procedure for installing the headlining at the rear window is basically the same on all models except the Suburban. Apply a light coat of cement to the surface of the opening. Use cement sparingly, as shown in Figure 88. While the cement is allowed to become tacky apply cement at the quarter panel where the material is to be cemented. Starting at the center, press the headlining onto the cemented surface, as shown in Figure 89. Install the material across the top and to a point about six inches from the lower corners of the windows. Press the material in place at the quarter panel where it is to be cemented.

55P¶O2Ó Fig. 86—Tucking Headlining Between Retainer and Roof Rail

Fig. 88—Applying Cement to Rear Window Opening

BODY AND SHEETMETAL

499

(5) Install roof rail weatherstrip. (6) Install upper windshield reveal moulding. Removing or Installing Front Seat (4 Door Sedan) Removal and installation of the front seat assembly is basically the same as the 1956 model. For removal of the front seat frame on the 4 Door Sedan, proceed as follows:

55P)323

Fig. 89—Pressing Material to Cemented Surface

Install the remaining portion of the headlining at the rear window. Work out any wrinkles which may form, and tuck in the remaining portion at the forward edge of the quarter panel. Locate the center of the dome lamp bracket. Cut a small hole in the headlining at this point and pull wires through opening. Install wires in housing, apply a small amount of cement to the inner edge of dome light bracket and install dome light. Install the rear window, rear seats and coat hanger hooks. Removing or installing Headíinings (Suburbans and Hard Tops) New headíinings are used on station wagon and hard top models, as shown in Figure 90. The material is cut into sections to fit between the headlining retaining bows. Should it become necessary to remove or install sections of the headlining, proceed as follows: Removal (1) Remove screws that attach the roof rail weatherseal. Slide seal out from under roof panel. (2) Remove the screws that attach the inside roof rail finish moulding. Slide moulding out from under roof panel. (3) Remove upper windshield reveal moulding. (4) Remove headlining bow retainer covers. (5) Lift desired panel from roof rail positioning clips and remove from vehicle. Installation (1) Engage panel in roof rail clips and position against headlining retainer bow. (2) Install retainer cover end clip caps on retainer covers. (3) Install retainer covers. (4) Install roof rail finish moulding. Engage retainer cover end clips when installing moulding.

Removal (1) Remove seat cushion. (2) Disconnect seat adjustment cable. (3) Remove 4 bolts attaching seat frame to seat guide. (4) Remove seat frame. Installation (1) Place seat frame on seat guides so that stud holes in seat frame line up with holes in seat guide. (2) Install attaching bolts. (3) Connect seat adjusting cable. (4) Install seat cushion. Removing or Installing Front Seat (2 Door Sedan) The front seat cushion on the 2-door sedans is an integral part of the seat frame. To remove the front seat frame the following procedure should be followed: Removal (1) Disconnect seat adjustment cable. (2) Remove 4 bolts attaching seat frame to seat guide. (3) Remove seat assembly. Installation (1) Place seat frame on seat guides so that the stud holes in seat frame line up with holes in seat guides. (2) Install 4 attaching bolts to seat frame. (3) Connect seat adjusting cable.

` `>-HEADLINING :-·-Si¾¾>' <

BOW RETAINER COVERS '•¿í¾¾

Fig. 90—Headlining Installed

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

500

SPECIFICATIONS SECTION 1

BRAKES Drum Diameter Clearance Between Lining and Drum Heel and Toe (All Shoes) Lining Type Attached to Shoes by Width Thickness Brake Shoe Return Spring Tension—Pounds—Front Brake Shoe Return Spring Tension—Pounds—Rear Per Cent of Braking Torque—Rear Wheels Diameter of Wheel Cylinder Bore Diameter of Master Cylinder Bore Piston Cylinder Clearance (All Bores) Brake Pedal Return Spring Minimum Pounds (Manual Brakes Only)

11" .006" Molded Asbestos Cyclebond 2½" Front, 2" Rear** .200" 40 to 50 40 to 50 35*** 1 ¼" 1 ¼" .003 to .0065" 9 to 11 at 3 1 ¼ e " 19 to 21 at 4 ` ‰ " ½ to ¼" ½2 to ¼"

Brake Pedal Free Play (Manual Brakes Only) Brake Pedal Free Play (Power Brakes) Hand Brake Type

*lnternal Expanding External Contracting Propeller Shaft at Rear of Transmission 6"

Location Drum Diameter

*rjf/

Lining Type

Molded and Compressed Asbestos 2" ‰" .015 to .020"

Width Thickness Clearance *With Automatic Transmission Only. * *4-Door Hardtop, Suburban and Convertible, 2½" front and rear. ***4-Door Hardtop Suburban, and Convertible 40.

SECTION 2

CLUTCH

Model Number Size (Inches) . ..

V-8

Std.

6 Opt.

Special

Std.

Special

1384 9¼

100131-1 9¼

1376 10

1417 10

1428 11

SPECIFICATIONS

501

SECTION 2 (Continued)

CLUTCH Std.

6 Opt.

Special

Std.

V-8

Total Spring Load (Lbs.) Plate Load (Lbs.) Number oí Springs and Color

1434 1314 6 (white))

1342 1342 3 (blue)

1962 1842 9 (brown)

2326 2206 12 (no color)

Spring Load

239 lbs. @ 1.515i inches

260 lbs. @ 1.586 inches

218 lbs. @ 1.732 inches

Number of Levers Finger (Release Lever) Height (Inches) Disc Damper Springs (No Color) Spacer Number (As used with Fixture, Tool C-585A) Disc Thickness (Inches) Disc Diameter (Inches)

3 3 3 2 ( ± ‰ )) 2(±‰) 2(±‰) 6—Pink 3—Tan 3—NC 6—Black

.125 6

125 6

Special

2142 2022 6 (orange) 6 (no color) 167 lbs. 193.8 lbs. @ 1.504 inches (a) 1.515 inches orange no color—190 lbs. @ 1.515 inches 3 3

.125 6

2(±‰) 6—Red

2(±½2> 6—Purple

.125 6

SECTION 3

COOLING V-8 COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY—(Qts.) With Heater

13 14

20 21

.060"

157 to 162° 190° F.

"V" See Page 526 See Page 526

"Y" See Page 526 See Page 526

FAN Diameter Number oí Blades

17" 4

18" 4

PRESSURE CAP Pounds per Inch

WATER PUMP Impeller and Water Pump Housing Clearance, THERMOSTAT Starts to Open at Fully Open at FAN BELT Type Tension With Power Steering

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

502

SECTION 4

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTING MOTOR V-8

STARTING MOTOR Model Model—(6 cyl with PowerFlite Trans.), Voltage

MDM 6001

ARMATURE End Play Runout (maximum) BRUSHES Number Used Spring Tension (oz.) Poles

DRIVE Type Pinion Clearance Pinion Teeth Ring Gear Teeth FREE RUNNING TEST Voltage Amperage Draw Minimum Speed RPM

STALL TORQUE TEST Torque (foot-pounds) Voltage Amperage Draw

MDL 6003 MDL 6004 12

005 to .030" .003"

.005 to .030" .003"

4 42 to 53 4

Folo-Th:u ½2 tO ½ 6 " 9 146

Folo-Thru ¼2 ^ ¼ 6 " 9 146

11 50 3600

11 60 3400

5 4 210

6 4 225

IGNITION

DISTRIBUTOR Model Rotation Advance Control Point Gap Breaker Arm Spring Tension (oz.), Contact Dwell (degrees)

IBR-4001 Clockwise Automatic .018 to .022" 17 to 20 39 ± 3°

AUTOMATIC ADVANCE CURVE (Distributor Speed) 250 to 450 450

1150 1800

0° 0 to 2° 5¼ to7½°

7½to9½°

SPECIFICATIONS

503

SECTION 4-ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Continued)

VACUUM ADVANCE CURVE Manifold Vacuum in Inches of Mercury 5.25 to 6.75 10 16 CONDENSER CAPACITY (Microfarads) TIMING MARK LOCATION (Marks 1° apart) ENGINE IDLE SPEED (RPM) FIRING ORDER SPARK PLUGS Type Size (mm) Gap COIL Model Capacity (volts) Amperage Draw Engine Idling Engine Stopped

0° 3½ to 5½° 8½ to 10½° .25 to .285 Vibration Damper 450 to 500 1-5-3-6-2-4 AR5l 14 .035" CAG 4001 12 1.8 2.4 Red Ram

DISTRIBUTOR Model Rotation Advance Control Point Gap Breaker Arm Spring Tension (oz.) Contact Dwell AUTOMATIC ADVANCE CURVE (Distributor Speed) 370 to 540 540 800 1700 VACUUM ADVANCE CURVE Manifold Vacuum in Inches of Mercury 6.5 to 7.75 12.5 18.0 CONDENSER CAPACITY (Microfarads) TIMING MARK LOCATION (Marks 2° apart) ENGINE IDLE SPEED (RPM) FIRING ORDER SPARK PLUGS Type Size (mm) Gap

IBP 4002 Clockwise Automatic .015 to .018" 17 to 20 29 to 32°

0° 0 to 2° 3 to 5° 7½ to 9½°

0° 6.8 to 8.8° 12 to 14° .25 to .285 Fan Drive Pulley 475 to 500 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 AR-42 14 .035"

504

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION 4-ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Continued) Red Ram COIL (Use with Ballast Resistor) Model Capacity (volts)

CAH-4001 12

BALLAST RESISTOR Model Amperage draw Engine Idling Engine Stopped

PU-4003 2.5 3.1 Super Red Ram (Power Package)

DISTRIBUTOR Model Rotation Advance Control Point Gap Breaker Arm Spring Tension (oz.) Contact Dwell

IBP 4002B Clockwise Automatic .015 to .018" 17 to 20 29 to 32°

AUTOMATIC ADVANCE CURVE (Distributor Speed) 300 to 400

Start

400

0. to 5.0°

490

4.3 to 6.3°

850

7 to 9°

VACUUM ADVANCE CURVE Manifold Vacuum in Inches of Mercury 6.5 to 7.75 12.5 18.0

0° 6.8 to 8.8° 12 to 14°

CONDENSER CAPACITY (Microfarads)

.25 to .285

TIMING MARK LOCATION (Marks 2 apart) ENGINE IDLE SPEED (RPM) FIRING ORDER SPARK PLUGS Type Size (mm) Gap COIL (Use with Ballast Resistor) Model Capacity (volts) BALLAST RESISTOR Model Amperage Draw Engine Idling Engine Stopped

Fan Drive Pulley 475 to 500 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 AR-42 14

.035" CAH-4001 12 PU 4003 2

·5 ·

3 1

505

SPECIFICATIONS

SECTION 4-ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Continued) D500 Single 4 Barrel Carburetor DISTRIBUTOR Model Rotation Advance Control Point Gap Breaker Arm Spring Tension (oz.) CONTACT DWELL Single Set AUTOMATIC ADVANCE CURVE (Distributor Speed) 250 to 450 450 900 2400

VACUUM ADVANCE CURVE Manifold Vacuum in Inches of Mercury 10 to 11 14 17.75 CONDENSER CAPACITY (Microfarads) TIMING MARK LOCATION (Marks 2° apart), ENGINE IDLE SPEED (RPM) FIRING ORDER SPARK PLUGS Type Size (mm) Gap COIL (Use with Ballast Resistor) Model Capacity (volts) , BALLAST RESISTOR Model Amperage Draw Engine Idling Engine Stopped

IBP 4002D Clockwise Automatic .015 to .018" 17 to 20 29 to 32°

Start 0. to 1.9° 4 to 6°

8 to 10°

0° 6 to 9°

12 to 14° .25 to .285

Fan Drive Pulley 475 to 500 1-8-4-3-8-5-7-2 AR-42 14 .035" CAH-4001 12 PU-4003 2.5 3.1

D500 Twin 4 Barrel Carburetor DISTRIBUTOR Model Rotation Advance Control Point Gap Breaker Arm Spring Tension (oz.) Contact Dwell Single Set Double Set

IBS 4005 Clockwise Automatic .015 to .018" 17 to 20 29 to 32° 36 to 39°

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

506

SECTION 4-ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Continued) D500 Twin 4 Barrel Carburetor AUTOMATIC ADVANCE CURVE (Distributor Speed) Start .0 to 4.5' 4 to 6° 7 to 9°

350 to 450 450 700

1200 VACUUM ADVANCE CURVE Manifold Vacuum in Inches of Mercury

0° 5 to 7.6° 9 to 11.5°

8.25 to 9.8

14 18 CONDENSER CAPACITY (Microfarads) TIMING MARK LOCATION (Marks 2° apart) ENGINE IDLE SPEED (RPM) FIRING ORDER SPARK PLUGS Type Size (mm) Gap COIL (Use with Ballast Resistor) Model Capacity (volts) BALLAST RESISTOR Model Amperage Draw Engine Idling Engine Stopped

.25 to .285

Fan Drive Pulley 475 to 500 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 AR-42 14 .035" CAH-4001 12 PU-4003 2.5 3.1

GENERATOR

GENERATOR Model Model (with Car Cooling) Type Rotation Bearing (drive end) (commutator end on GHM 6OO4C) Bushing (commutator end) (GIC-7012A only) Commutator Runout Armature End Play Ground Polarity Number of Brushes Brush Spring Tension (oz.) Field Coil Draw Motoring Draw

GJC-7OI2A GHM-6004C 12 Volt Shunt Wound Clockwise Ball Absorbent Bronze .0005" .003 to .010" Negative 2 18 to 36 1.2 to 1.3 Amps 10 Volts 3.4 to 3.9 Amps 10 Volts

SPECIFICATIONS

507

SECTION 4-ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Continued) GENERATOR—(Cont'd) OUTPUT Volts Maximum Amps Maximum Rpm CONTROL

15 30 2250 Current Voltage Regulator

CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR

VOLTAGE REGULATOR Model RATED CAPACITY Volts Amps GROUND POLARITY VALUE OF RESISTORS Number 60 (ohms) Number 38 (ohms) Number 30 (ohms) CIRCUIT BREAKER Resistance of Winding (ohms) Armature Air Gap Contact Point Gap Points Close at (volts) Points Open at (amps, discharge) VOLTAGE REGULATOR Resistance of Winding (ohms) Armature Air Gap Contact Point Gap Operating Voltage after 10 amp charge for 15 minutes run Temperature F Volts =t .15 CURRENT REGULATOR Armature Air Gap Contact Point Gap Following V. R. check an additional 15 minutes run at 14.58 volts Operating at 45-57 Amperage at 70° F

VRX-6201-A 12 28 to 32 Negative 55.0 to 70.0 34.5 to 42.0 28.0 to 34.5 107 to 121 .031 to .034" .015" (min) 13.0 to 13.75 0 to 6 43.7 to 49.3 .048 to .052" .012"

50° 14.68

60° 14.62

70° 14.58

100° 14.37

80° 14.51

.048 to .052" .012"

28.3

BATTERY

Models VOLTAGE NUMBER OF PLATES CAPACITY (AMP HOURS) TERMINAL GROUND

11-OE-53 12 9 53 Negative

HO-11-50 12 9 50 Negative

11-HS-50 12 9 50 Negative

508

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION 4¯ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Continued) HORNS

HORNS Number Used Amperage Draw (at 12.4 Volts) Tone Pitch

2 9±l Adjustable

SECTION 5

ENGINE ENGINE Type Valve Arrangement Number of Cylinders Bore Stroke Piston Displacement (cu. inch) Taxable Horsepower (ama) Compression Ratio Compression Pressure (speed minimum 150 rpm, plugs removed, wide open throttle)

V-8

D-500

90° V In Heads Single Rocker Shaft 8 3.69" 3.80" 325.0 cu. in. 43.9 8.5 to 1

90° V In Heads Double Rocker Shaft 8 3.69" 3.80" 325.0 cu. in. 43.9 9.25 to 1

Maximum Variation Between Cylinders (any one engine).. Firing Order CYLINDER NUMBERING—(from driver's seat, front to rear) Left Bank Right Bank ENGINE LUBRICATION Pump Type Crankcase Capacity (gts.) *When filter element is changed, add 1 qt. Pump Drive Minimum Pump Pressure at 500 rpm Operating Pressure at 40 to 50 mph 1500 RPM Oil Filter Type: Shunt Type Replaceable Element CYLINDER BLOCK Cylinder Bore (standard) Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round (max. allowable before reconditioning).. . Cylinder Bore Taper (max. allowable before reconditioning). Reconditioning Working Limits (for taper and out-of-round) Maximum Allowable Oversize (cylinder bores)

90 (Minimum) 155 (Maximum) 15 lbs. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 1-3-5-7 2-4-6-8 Rotary—Full Pressure 5* Camshaft 15 psi 50—65 lbs. Standard Yes 3.6875—3.6895" .005" .020" .001" .060"

SPECIFICATIONS

509

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued) CYLINDER BLOCK—(Cont'd) Tappet Bore Diameter Distributor Lower Drive Shaft Bushing (press fit in block) Ream to Shaft to Bushing Clearance

.905—.9055"

.0015—.004" .4865—.4875" .0007—.0022"

CAMSHAFT Drive End Play Maximum Allowable Radial Clearance Maximum Allowable CAMSHAFT JOURNALS Diameter and Length

Chain .002—.006" .010" .001—.003" .005"

1.998 — 1.999 x % " 1.982—1.983 x ¾ " 1.967— 1.968 x ¾ " 1.951 —1.952 x ¾ " 1.4355_ 1.4365 x i

No. No. No. No. No.

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS Diameter and Length

No. No. No. No. No.

CAMSHAFT CHAIN Number of Links Pitch Width

68 .375" l¼"

CRANKSHAFT Type Bearings Thrust Taken by End Play Maximum Allowable . . . . Radial Clearance Maximum Allowable Finish at Rear Oil Seal Surface.

Fully Counter-Balanced Steel Backed Babbitt No. 3 Main Bearing .002—.007" .010" .0005—.0015" .0025" Diagonal Knurling

MAIN BEARING SIZES Diameter and Length

MAIN BEARINGS—(Service) Available in Standard and the following undersizes

1 2x¾" 2 3 l*‰X¾" 4 l«¼4X¾" 5 l¾«x%"

No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No.

1 2 3 4 5

1 2.50 2 2.50 3 2.50 4 2.50 5 2.50

x .73" x .73" x .72" x .73" x 1.19"

.001, .002, .003, .010, .012" .001,.002, .003, .010, .012" .001, .002, .003, 010, .012" .001, .002, .003, .010, .012" .001,.002, .003, .010, .012"

510

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued)

MAIN BEARING JOURNALS Diameter Maximum Allowable Out-of-Round Maximum Allowable Taper Center Bearing Run-Out (total indicator reading) When Supported at Front and Rear Main Bearing CRANKPIN JOURNALS Diameter Maximum Allowable Out-of-Round Maximum Allowable Taper

2.5 .001" .001" .002" 2.2495—2.2505" .001" .001"

CONNECTING RODS Length (center to center) Weight (less bearing shell) Bearings Diameter and Length Clearance Maximum Allowable Side Clearance Bearings for Service

6.62 22.5 Steel Backed Babbitt 2¼ x 1 ¾ 6 / / .0005—.0015" .0025" .009-.017" Standard, .001, .002, .003, .010, .012"

CONNECTING ROD BUSHING Type Diameter and Length

Steel Backed Bronze 1.110-1.125—.9217-.9220

PISTONS Type Material Clearance in Bore (with .0015 x ½" feeler stock) Land Clearance (in bore) Clearance (top of skirt) Weight (Standard through .060" oversize) Ring Groove Width (upper) (intermediate) (lower) Piston for Service: PISTON PINS Type Diameter and Length Clearance in Piston (thumb press at 70° F.) End Play Clearance Rod (selective) Pins for Service PISTON RINGS Compression Oil with Expander Piston Ring Gaps Ring Side Clearance (upper) (intermediate) (lower)

Conformatic with Steel Strut Aluminum-Alloy—Tin Coated 5—10 pounds pull .027—.033" .0005—.0015" 18.6 oz. .032" .0790—.0800" .1875—.1890" Standard, .005, .020, .030, .040, .060" O.S. Floating .922" x 3.07" .0000—.0005" .003—.029" .0001—.0004" Standard, .003, .008" O.S. 2 * .010—.020" .0015—.0030" .0010—.0025" .001—003"

SPECIFICATIONS

511

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued)

HYDRAULIC TAPPETS Type Body Diameter Clearance in Block Clearance Between Valve Stem and Rocker Arm (dry lash) Service Tappets Available in Standard and .001, .008, .030" O.S VALVES—(Intake) Head Diameter Length (to top of valve face) Stem Diameter (standard) Stem to Guide Clearance Maximum Allowable Face Angle Valves for Service VALVES—(Exhaust) Head Diameter Length (overall) Stem Diameter Stem to Guide Clearance Maximum Allowable Face Angle Valves for Service VALVE GUIDES Type Ream for Next Oversize Valve Stem VALVE SPRINGS Pressure (when compressed to 1.69") Valve Closed Pressure (when compressed to 1.31") Valve Open Maximum Allowable Out-of-Plumb Valve Spring Installed Height (spring seat to retainer) *Use a 1/í,;" spacer to reduce spring height (when over l11/^,")

Spring Loaded Flat Check Valve .9040—.9045" .0005—.0015" .060—.210"

1.84" 4.31" .37" .002" .004" 45° Standard, .005, .015, .030" (O.S. stem diameter) 1.47" 4.31" .37" .003" .006" 45° Standard, .005, .015, .030" (O.S. stem diameter) Cast-in-Head 374 Standard Valve Stems .379, .389, .404 O.S. Valve Stems 72 lbs. 166 lbs. ¾ «" 1 5 /S—1 1 ¼«"*

D500 VALVE SPRINGS—Outer Number Free Length Pressure (when compressed to 1.69") Valve Closed Pressure (when compressed to 1.31") Valve Open Valve Spring Inside Diameter Maximum Allowable Out-of-Plumb Valve Spring Installed Height (spring seat to retainer) *Use ¾ (;" spacer to reduce spring height (when over 11 \\ <¡") Assemble with the Closed Coils Toward

16 40 lbs. 105 lbs. .990—1.010" 16

1 % — 11 ¾ Head

512

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued) D500

VALVE SPRINGS—Inner Number Free Length Pressure (when compressed to 1.56") Valve Closed Pressure (when compressed to 1.31") Valve Open Valve Spring Inside Diameter VALVE GUIDES Length (intake and exhaust) Press Fit in Head Valve Seat to Top of Guide (intake) (exhaust) Ream after Installation (intake) (exhaust)

16 2‰" 25 lbs. 42 lbs. .690 — .710" 219/32/f .001 — .003" 1 ¾e" 1¾ 2 " .374 — .375" .374 — .375" V-8

VALVE TIMING Position of No. 1 Piston with Respect to block TDC 110" Below to .135" Below Intake Opens (BTC) 10° Intake Closes (ABC) 58° Exhaust Opens (BBC) 56° Exhaust Closes (ATC) 16° Valve Overlaps 26° Intake and Exhaust Valve Duration 244° CYLINDER HEAD Valve Seat Run-Out (maximum) Valve Seat Out-of-Round Intake Valve Seat Angle Seat Width (finished) Exhaust Valve Seat Angle Seat Width (finished) Cylinder Head Gasket (thickness compressed) ROCKER SHAFT ASSEMBLY Clearance Between Rocker Arm and Shaft Clearance Between Rocker Shaft and Bracket Clearance Between Valve Stem and Rocker Arm Tip (dry lash— tappet drained)

D500

.019 to .044" Above 20° 56° 58° 18° 38° 256° .002" .0005" 45° .060—.085" 45° .040—.060" .055" .001—.002" .007—.0027" .060—.210" 6 Cylinder

ENGINE Type Number of Cylinders Bore and Stroke Piston Displacement (cu. in.) Taxable Horse Power (ama) Compression Ratio Compression Pressure of each Cylinder at Cranking Speed Min. 150 RPM (plug removed) wide open throttle Maximum Brake Horse Power at 3600 RPM

L-Head 6 3.25 x 4.63" 230.2 25.35 8.0 to 1 120 to 150 lbs. 123

513

SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued) 6-Cylindei CRANKSHAFT Type Bearings Radial Clearance End Play Bearing Sizes—No. No. No. No.

Counterbalanced Replaceable .0005 to .0015" .003 to .007" 2½ x P%4" 2½ x l 1 /^" 2½ x i y 3 2 " 2½ x l7/e"

1 2 3 4

CONNECTING RODS Length (center-to-center) Radial Clearance End Play Diameter and Length CAMSHAFT BEARINGS Type Drive End Play Clearance Diameter and Length—No. No. No. No.

7 13 / 16 " .0005 to .0015" .006 to .011" 2 ‰ x 1"

1 2 3 4

CONNECTING ROD BUSHING Type Diameter and Length PISTON Weight Clearance (¾ inch from bottom on thrust face) Ring Groove Depth (compression) Ring Groove Depth (oil) Piston Length PISTON PIN Type Diameter and Length Clearance in Piston (thumb press at 70° F.) Clearance in Rod (tight thumb press at 70° F.) PISTON RINGS Compression Rings Oil Rings RING GAP Compression and Oil Ring Side Clearance in Groove—Compression Upper Lower Oil Ring Upper Lower

Steel Backed Replaceable Silent Chain .002 to .006" .001 to .003" 2 x 1¾ 2 " l»¼¯2 x ¾ " 1 15 / 16 x %" l¼ x l¼"

Bronze % 4 x 1 ¼"

16 oz. .0002 to .0012" .169" .172" 31 ¼ ß" Floating 2¾ x 5 ·‰" .0000 to +.0005" +.0001 to +.0002" 2 2 .010 to .020" .0025 to .004" .002 to .0035" .001 to .0025" .001 to .003"

514

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued) 6 Cylinder VALVE—INTAKE Head Diameter Lift Stem Diameter Stem to Guide Clearance Operating Clearance—Hot

11 ¾ 2 " 2 ‰" .340 to .341" .001 to .003" .010"

VALVES—EXHAUST Head Diameter Lift Stem Diameter Stem to Guide Clearance Operating Clearance—Hot

11 %2" 2 %4" .340 to .341" .003 to .005" .010"

VALVE TIMING Tappet Clearance (cold) Intake Opens (before) TDC Piston Below TDC Timing Marks On

.014" 12 to 13° 766 to .0770" Vibration Damper

VALVE SPRINGS Length (free) Pressure at l ¾ inch (valve closed) Pressure at 1% inch (valve opened)

2" 40 to 45 lbs. 110 to 120 lbs.

VALVE GUIDES Ream after Installing—Intake Ream after Installing—Exhaust

.342 to .343" .344 to .345"

EXHAUST VALVE SEAT INSERTS

Removable

SEAT WIDTH

¾ e to ‰ "

SEAT ANGLE Intake Exhaust

45° 45°

VALVE TAPPETS Stem Diameter Radial Clearance

¾" 0002 to .001"

CYLINDER BORES Maximum Allowable Taper Maximum Allowable Out-of-Round Reconditioning Working Limits Maximum Allowable Oversize LUBRICATING SYSTEM

-020" .005" .001" .060" Pressure

OIL PUMP Type Driven By

Rotary Camshaft

OIL PRESSURE (25 to 30 mph.)

40 to 50 lbs.

OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE OPENS AT

45 to 55 lbs.

CRANKCASE CAPACITY (quarts) * 1 extra quart when changing filter.

SPECIFICATIONS

515

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued)

TIGHTENING REFERENCE WARNING The connecting rod nuts, bearing cap bolts, cylinder head bolts and spark plugs should be very carefully hand torqued.

CAMSHAFT SPROCKET HUB NUT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET HUB THRUST PLATE BOLT CARBURETOR MOUNTING NUTS CHAIN CASE COVER BOLT CLUTCH HOUSING BOLT (small) CLUTCH HOUSING BOLT (large) CLUTCH HOUSING PAN BOLT CONNECTING ROD CAP NUT CRANKSHAFT PULLEY HUB BOLT CYLINDER HEAD BOLT DISTRIBUTOR CLAMP BOLT ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT INSULATOR BOLT ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT "U" NUTS EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD NUT EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE BOLT NUT FAN BLADE BOLT FLYWHEEL HOUSING TO CYLINDER BLOCK BOLT FUEL PUMP MOUNTING BOLT GENERATOR ADJUSTING STRAP BOLT GENERATOR ADJUSTING STRAP MOUNTING BOLT GENERATOR MOUNTING BOLLT INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLT MAIN BEARING CAP BOLT OIL FILTER MOUNTING BOLT OIL PAN ATTACHING BOLT OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG OIL PUMP COVER BOLT OIL PUMP MOUNTING BOLT ROCKER SHAFT BRACKET MOUNTING BOLT SPARK PLUGS WATER OUTLET ELBOW BOLT WATER PUMP BODY BOLT WATER PUMP HOUSING BOLT

Foot-Pounds 125 15 10 15 30 45 15 45 135 85 15 20 45 25 40 15 50 30 15 30 20 30 85 25 15 35 10 35 30 30 30 30 30

CRANKCASE VENTILATOR OUTLET PIPE BOLT MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL COUNTERWEIGHT BOLT ROCKER COVER STUD NUT Â¯ TAPPET CHAMBER COVER BOLT

Inch-Pounds 15 50 30 50

TIGHTENING REFERENCE MAIN BEARINGS

6 Cylinder Foot-Pounds 85

516

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Continued)

TIGHTENING REFERENCE-(Continued)

6-Cy¡mder Foot-Pounds

CONNECTING ROD CRANKSHAFT BOLT CYLINDER HEAD MANIFOLDS SPARK PLUGS

45 135 70 20 30

SECTION 7

FRAME Foot-Pounds 15-20

BODY BOLTS

SECTION 8

FRONT SUSPENSION TYPE CASTER—Manual Steering —Power Steering CAMBER 'Preferred setting—Left Side + ¾°, Right Side 0° + ¼°. TOE-IN—(¼° preferred) TURN-OUT ON TURNS—(plus or minus 1°) STEERING AXIS INCLINATION TREAD—Front ROAD CLEARANCE—(at oil pan) ROAD CLEARANCE—(at rear axle, minimum)

Independent Suspension —¾° äz ¾1o + ¾ ° ± ¾`o Left + ¼° ± ¾ o Right 0° ± ¼° + — ‰° 2l½° 5½° to 7° at 0° Camber 60.9" 5.5" 8" — 6 Cyl. 8.2" — V-8

TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS Shock Absorber Upper Mounting Nut Shock Absorber Lower Mounting Nut Sway Eliminator Shaft Link Nuts Sway Eliminator Insulator Retainer Nuts Lower Ball loint Stud Nut Strut to Lower Control Arm Mounting Bolts Lower Control Arm Strut Bushing Nut Shaft to Lower Control Arm Bushing Retainer Nut (Inner) Upper Ball loint Stud Nut Lower Control Arm Shaft to Crossmember Mounting Nut Upper Control Arm to Support Bracket Mounting Bolt Nuts Control Arm Support Bracket to Frame Nut (½") Control Arm Support Bracket to Frame Nut (‰") Steering Knuckle to Brake Support Bolt Steering Knuckle to Steering Knuckle Arm Nut

Fooí-Pounds 25 40 15 25 135 65 35 125 100 180 45-65 70 5 ¤ 55 50

SPECIFICATIONS

517

SECTION 9

FUEL SYSTEM

CARBURETOR Type Model (with Standard Transmission) (with Automatic Transmission) Bore Venturi Main Metering Jet Power Jet Thermostat Cover Number Choke Cover Number

6 Cylinder

V-8

Dual WW3-159 WW3-160 l¾e" l¾e" .045" #62 M.B.* #32—#33

Dual WW3-149 WW3-150 l%s" l‰" .051" 2—#61 #40 Std. Transmission #41 Auto. Transmission

* Restriction for Power System in Main Body ADJUSTMENTS Idle Mixture (both screws) * Idle Speed Fast Idle Speed Setting (drill size) Choke Positioning Spring Color Choke Positioning Spring Setting Drill Size Unloader Adjustment (W.O.K.) Accelerating Pump Travel Float Setting Vacuum Kick Adjustment (drill size) CHOKE Control AIR CLEANER Type

CARBURETOR Type Model NominalSize

¾ to l¼ turns open 450 to 500 rpm #48 @ 5¼ turns #12 or 24 @ 5½ turns black copper #31 #37 #19 Drill #l9Drill ¾ 6 to ‰ " % 2 to ¾r>" ‰" ‰" #3 or ¼" VacuumHot Air Type Integral Automatic Paper Element Heavy Duty

Cross-Over Type

Paper Element Heavy Duty

4 Barrel Downdraft WCFB — 2532S WCFB —2622S-D500 l¾e" * Bore 4 Bolt

THROTTLE BORE Primary Secondary MAIN VENTURI Primary Secondary LOW SPEED JETS Primary Secondary

l‰" l¾e" #69 Drill #69 Drill

518

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

FUEL SYSTEM-SECTION 9 (Continued) CARBURETOR—(Cont'd) MAIN METERING JETS Primary Secondary ADJUSTMENTS Idle Mixture (both screws) Idle Speed Accelerator Pump Pump Capacity Float Setting (casting to top of floats) Primary Secondary CHOKE Control

#42 Drill .057 Drill 1 Full Turn Open 500 RPM Long Strokes 19 CC. ¾e" ¼" Cross-Over Type

FUEL PUMP 6 Cylindei FUEL PUMP Model

8 Cylinder

M2494-S

M25O2-S M25O3-S D500 and Air Conditioning Equip. Cars Diaphragm with Diaphragm with Air Dome Air Dome Camshaft Camshaft 4 to 6 6 to 7

Type DRIVEN BY PUMP PRESSURE (lbs.)

SECTION 10

LUBRICATION CAPACITIES (U. S. MEASURES) 6 Cylinder ENGINE CRANKCASE (REFILL) * 1 quart extra when filter element is changed COOLING SYSTEM (With Heater) TRANSMISSION (Standard 3 Speed) (PowerFlite) (TorqueFlite) REAR AXLE Capacity FUEL TANK Capacity Suburban Models AIR CLEANER Capacity POWER STEERING Capacity

8 Cylinder

*5qts.

*5 qts.

l3qts. l4qts.

20 qts. 21 qts.

2¾ pts. 20 pts. 18 pts.

3¼ qts.

3¼ pts.

20 gals. 22gals.

Paper Element

5 8 oz

SPECIFICATIONS

519

SECTION 11

REAR AXLE AND SUSPENSION TYPE Gear Type Gear Ratios: Standard 3 Speed Transmission Gear Ratios: PowerFlite Transmission PINION BEARINGS Type Number Used Adjustment Pre-Load Torque (Seal Removed) Pre-Load Torque (With Seal) DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS Type Number Used Adjustment RING GEAR AND PINION Serviced in Ring Gear Run-Out Adjustment Back Lash DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR CLEARANCE With Gauge WHEEL BEARINGS Type Adjustment EndPlay LUBRICATION Type

TYPE Gear Type Gear Ratios: Standard 3 Speed Transmission PowerFlite or TorqueFlite Transmission PINION BEARINGS Type Number Used Adjustment Pre-Load Torque DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS Type Number Used Adjustment RING GEAR AND PINION Serviced in Ring Gear Run-Out Adjustment Backlash

2 Pinion—8¼" Semi-Floating Hypoid 3.9—1 3.73—1 Tapered Roller 2 Select Washer 20 to 30 inch-pounds 40 to 55 inch-pounds Tapered Roller 2 Adjusting Nut Matched Sets .004" Select Washer .006 to .010" .004 to .012" Tapered Roller Select Shims .008 to .013" Multi-Purpose Hypoid Lubricant SAE 90 Winter or Summer Below—10° SAE 80 2 Pinion—8¾" Semi-Floating Hypoid 3.73 — 1 or 3.9 — 1 3.36—1 Tapered Roller 2 Select Shims 15 — 25 inch-pounds Tapered Roller 2 Adjusting Nut Matched Sets .004" Select Washers .006 — .010"

•

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

520

REAR AXLE AND SUSPENSION-SECTION 11 (Cont'd) DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR CLEARANCE With Gauge WHEEL BEARINGS Type Adjustment EndPlay LUBRICATION Type

.004 —.012" Tapered Roller Select Shims .008—.013" Multi-Purpose Hypoid SAE 90 Winter or Summer Below —10° F. SAE 80

SPRINGS SPRINGS —REAR Type

Parallel Semi-Elliptic 55" 2½" Wax Impregnated Fabric

Length Width Type Inserts NUMBER OF LEAVES All 6 Cylinder Models All 8 Cylinder Models All Suburban Models REAR SHACKLE Type

4 5 6 Rubber Bushing

FRONT PIVOT Type

Rubber Bushing

T I G H T E N I N G REFERENCE REAR SPRING FRONT PIVOT BOLT NUT REAR SPRING U-BOLT NUTS—½ INCH REAR SPRING SHACKLE NUTS— ‰-2O INCH SWAY BAR BRACKET TO FRAME BOLTS SWAY BAR SHAFT RETAINER TO CONTROL ARM BOLT NUT— ¾ (. INCH

Foot-Pounds 45 to 55 62 to 69 35to4O 45to5O 45 to 50

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT PROPELLER SHAFT Type Diameter, Length and Wall Thickness: Standard 3 Speed Transmission PowerFlite or TorqueFlite Transmission PowerFlite Only (D-66) UNIVERSAL JOINTS Type Front Rear Bearing Lubrication

V-8

Tubular

3.5" x 58.81" x .065" 3.0" x 58.81" x .065"

3.5" x 59.02" x .065" 3.25" x 58.96" x .065" 3.5" x 59.02" x .065"

Ball and Trunnion Cross and Roller Prepack

SPECIFICATIONS

521

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT-(Con†'d) TIGHTENING REFERENCE Foot-Pounds 35 to 40

PROPELLER SHAFT FLANGE NUTS ¾"

SECTION 12

STEERING MANUAL

STEERING GEAR Type

3 Tooth Worm and Roller 18.2 to 1 2 Taper Roller Bearings Select Shim Adjusting Screw Oilite or Bronze

Ratio Worm Thrust Taken by Worm Adjustment Shaft Adjustment Housing to Shaft Bushings STEERING WHEEL Diameter

17"

STEERING LINKAGE Type

Symmetrical Idler Arm

STEERING COLUMN ADJUSTMENT TORQUE Pounds pull required (9 inches from center of steering wheel) to turn steering wheel when worm is assembled in housing

¼ to ¾ Pounds

TOTAL ADJUSTMENT TORQUE Total pounds pull required (9 inches from center of steering wheel) to turn steering wheel, with the wheel in its straight-ahead driving position after steering gear cross shaft is put in housing and final gear adjustment is made

% to 15/s Pounds

TIE RODS—(Center to Center) NominalLength

2015/6"

FRONT WHEEL BEARING Type

Taper Roller

STEERING-POWER FLUID CAPACITY OF HYDRAULIC SYSTEM FLUID CAPACITY OF WORM HOUSING TYPE OF FLUID MAXIMUM PUMP PRESSURE MAXIMUM FLUID FLOW AT 3000 RPM TYPE PUMP MODEL

l ½ Quarts 10 Ounces Type "A" Transmission 750-800 PSI 2 Gal./Min. Vane VT-26

522

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING-POWER-(Con†inued) End Clearance (Between Vanes and Face of Body) Vane Clearance FLOW CONTROL VALVE SPRING: Free Length Working Length Force at Working Length PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE SPRING: Free Length Working Length Force at Working Length FRONT END ALIGNMENT: (See Front Suspension Section) Steering Gear Ratio

.003 to .0007" .0006 to .0011" 2.327" 1.30" 6.6 Lbs. .82" .547" 16.4 Lbs.

16.3 to 1

TIGHTENING REFERENCE Foot-Pounds 30-35 12-17 18-23 30-35

Pump Body to Cover Bolts Pump Reservoir to Pump Body Bolts Pump Mounting Bolts Pump Reservoir Mounting Stud

TRANSMISSION SECTION 13 STANDARD TRANSMISSION RATIOS First Second Direct Reverse LUBRICANT Capacity (pts.) Type Viscosity TOLERANCES Second Speed Gear End Play Countershaft End Play Synchronizer Pin Length Synchronizer Clutch Gear Snap Ring Thickness

Mainshaft Rear Bearing Snap Ring Thicknesses Countershaft Thrust Washers

Drive Pinion Retainer to Case Gasket 'Model D-72

2.31 1.55 1 2.96

*2.5O *l.68 * 1 *3.2l

2¾ Gear Lubricant S.A.E. 80—All Seasons .004 to .008" .004 to .012" 1.570—1.580" .086 to .088" .089 to .091" .092 to .094" .095 to .097" .086 to .088" .091 to .093" Two sizes (A .O62"-.O64") Select to give .004 to .012 total end play Refer to Page 309, Par. 6

SPECIFICATIONS

523

TRANSMISSION—(Continued) POWERFLITE TRANSMISSION Type Torque Converter Diameter (inches) Oil Capacity of Transmission and Torque Converter Torque Converter Multiplication

Method of Cooling Lubrication Number of Clutch Plates GEAR RATIOS Low Drive—Breakaway Drive—Direct Reverse FRONT-REAR PUMPS Type End Clearance (Front Pump) End Clearance (Rear Pump) GOVERNOR (3-STAGE) Type Clearance Between Governor Valve and Body THRUST WASHERS Direct Clutch Piston Retainer (Fibre)

Kickdown Planet Pinion Carrier Kickdown Annulus Gear Planet Pinion Carrier Housing SNAP RINGS Planet Pinion Carrier Housing

Kickdown Sun Gear

Automatic Two Speed with Torque Converter 11 ¾ 20 pt. (Automatic Transmission) Fluid—Type "A" 2.6 at 1330 (D-72). 2.7 at 1870 D-66, equipped with power package) Air Pumps (Rotor Type) 6 1.72 to 1 1.72 to 1 1 to 1 2.39 to 1 Gear (Rotary) .0012 to .0022" .001 to .003" A-Centrifugal .002 to .005" .078 .095 .112 .062 .062 .078

to to to to to to

.080" .097" .114" .064" .064" .080"

*.O62 \O72 \O82 .058

to to to to

.064" .074" .084" .060"

.062 to .064"

Reverse Annulus Gear

.078 to .080" .082 to .084" .086 to .088"

*lf this selection of snap rings fails to provide minimum clearance, use kickdown sun gear snap ring (.058-.060").

TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION Type Torque Converter Diameter (inches) Oil Capacity of Transmission and Torque Converter Method of Cooling

Automatic Three Speed With Torque Converter 11¾ 18 pts. Automatic Transmission Fluid Type "A" Air

524

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

TORQUEFLITE TRANSMISSION-(Continued) Pump (Rotor Type) 4 3 4 2.6 at 1860 (D-66 and D-67) (2.7 at 1870 on D-67-2 Standard Models, D-67-l, D-70 and D-71 Power Package.

Lubrication Number of Rear Clutch Plates—Discs (each) Number of Front Clutch Plates Number of Front Clutch Discs Torque Converter Multiplication

GEAR RATIOS 1—Low 2—Second D—Drive R—Reverse N—Neutral

2.45 1.45 1.00 2.20

FRONT—REAR PUMPS Type End Clearnace (Front Pump) End Clearance (Rear Pump)

to to to to

1 1 1 1

Gear (Rotary) .001 to .0025 inch .001 to .0025 inch

THRUST WASHERS Input Shaft Front Clutch and Sun Gear Output Shaft SNAP RINGS Kickdown Annulus Gear Rear Clutch Low—Reverse Planet Pinion Carrier. Front Clutch

.115 .097 .078 .062 .062

to .117 inch to .099 inch to .080 inch to .064 inch to .064 inch

.060 .064 .060 .060 .064 .068 .060

to .062 inch to .066 inch to .062 inch to .062 inch to .066 inch to .070 inch to .062 inch

GENERAL Thread Size #8x32 #10x24 #10x32 ¼ x 20 ¼ x 28 ¾exl8 ¾6x24 ¾ x 16 ¾ x 24

Foof Pounds

Thread Size

Fooí Pounds

l½to2 2to2½ 2to2½ 5 to 10 5 to 10 12 to 17 15 to 20 25 to 30 30 to 35

¾e*l4 ¾6*2O ½ x 13 ½x2O ‰xl2 ¾exl8 ¾xll % x 18

45 to 50 50 to 55 80 to 85 80 to 90 100 to 110 120 to 130 130 to 140 160 to 170

SPECIFICATIONS

525

SECTION 14

WHEELS AND TIRES All Coronet Models WHEELS Type Rim Size Flange Number of Bolts to Attach Wheel Bolt Hole Circle—(diam.) Bolt Size TIRES Type Size Ply Tread TIRE PRESSURE Pounds—Cold (Coronet Models)

Royals and Custom

Steel Disc Drop Center — Safety Wheel I4X5½ 14x5

5 4½ ½-2O Super Cushion Tubeless 7.50x14 4* Twin Grip

5 4½ ½-2O Super Cushion Tubeless 8.00x14 4* Twin Grip

22 24

SECTION 15

AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR Location Type Bore Stroke Displacement Type Valve Speed Oil Capacity (Refrigerant Oil; 300) Clutch Mufflers CONDENSER Location RECEIVER STRAINER-DRIER Type Location REFRIGERANT Type Total Charge

Right Cylinder 2 cyl. 2" l¾" 8.67 cubic inch Reed Type 1.15 compressor rpm. to 1 engine rpm 12 ounces Rotating coil Cast in block Front of radiator Cylindrical steel container Under fender on fender shield Refrigerant (12) (auto-drier) 3 pounds

EVAPORATOR Location BLOWERS Type Location Capacity Current Draw

Cowl panel Centrifugal In heater unit 250 to 300 cubic feet of air per minute at high speed Approximately 10 amps

526

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

BELT TENSIONING PROCEDURE Belts must be tightened to the specified belt tensions at all times to insure the proper functioning of all engine accessories. If the specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage may cause engine overheating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced generator charging rates, and of course a greatly reduced belt life. To avoid any such adverse effects the following procedure should be followed: (1) Retighten all belts to the specified u s e d belt* tension before delivering the vehicle to the customer. (2) After 1000 miles retighten all belts to the specified

u s e d belt tension. (3) The belts should be retightened to the u s e d belt specification every 3000 miles or whenever the vehicle is being serviced, whichever occurs first. (4) The n e w belt tension specification should be used on all belt replacements, and the above procedure followed thereafter. The precautions are necessary to compensate for stretch inherent in the belts and for normal belt wear. *Any belt that has operated for a minimum of ½ hour is considered to be used.

TORQUE METHOD Foot-pound to be applied to the following components. Pwr. Strg. Pump

Generator

Type of Accessories

New Belt

Idler

Used Belt

New Belt

Used Belt

New Belt —

Used Belt

—

Standard

—

Power Steering

—

Air Conditioning

—

'The torque method should be used whenever possible. The deflection method is a much less accurate substitute.

BELT DEFLECTION METHOD* Deflection (inches) at midpoint of belt segment under a 5 lb. force. Type of Accessories Standard Power Steering Air Conditioning

Generator to Fan Pulley

Compressor to Generator Pulley

Crank to Pwr. Steering Pulley

New Belt Used Belt New Belt Used Belt New Belt Used Belt New Belt Used Belt

¼ ¼ —

— —

—

¼6

—

— —

¼ð

½6

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS BRAKES-SECTION 1 C-452—Puller C-650—Bleeder Hose C-745—Seal Protector C-837B—Filler C-845—Puller C-3014—Wrench C-3015—Installer C-3080—Hone C-3229—Pliers

Idler to Fan Pulley

C-328l—Wrench C-3462—Remover and Installer C-3494A—Adaptor C-3496—Tank C-3508—Gauge C-3512—Wrench C-3578—Ring C-3579—Pilot

SPECIAL TOOLS

CLUTCH-SECTION 2

SPECIAL TOOLS-(Cont'd) ENGINE-SECTION 5 (Cont'd)

C-41—Pilot C-360—Aligning Tool C-435—Dial Indicator C-585A—Compressing Fixture C-647—Testing Fixture C-585-32—Block C-730—Pilot Studs C-860—Reamer C-869—Arbor C-870—Arbor C-3005—Torque Wrench C-3181 —Bushing Installer C-3185—Bushing Remover C-3339—Dial Indicator DD 386—Pilot

COOLING SYSTEM-SECTION 3 C-412—Puller C-551—Refacing Tool C-3250—Hose Clamp Pliers C-3379—Adjusting Tool C-3468—Adaptor C-3476—Puller C-3499—Kit SP 1527—Abrasive Discs

C-522—Sleeve C-536—Remover C-584—Bearing Remover C-647—Spring Tester C-690—Spring Scale C-710—Fixture C-711—Alignment Fixture C-732—Remover C-741—Reamer C-756—Cleaner C-823—Hone C-867—Driver C-876—Refacer C-897—Driver C-3012—Reamer C-3023—Spring Compresser C-3024—Compresser C-3025—Sleeve

C-3026—Sleeve C-3027—Installer C-3028—Reamer C-3033—Puller-Installer C-3034—Bearing Remover C-3052—Puller C-3053—Installer C-3054—Socket

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM-SECTION 4 C-435—Indicator C-690—Scale C-693—Timing Light C-707—Dial Indicator C-770—Lathe C-828—Kit C-863—Timing Light C-3027—Positioning Tool C-3021—Driver C-3066—Adaptor C-3552—Headlight Aimer MT 310—Tester MTU 36—Scale MX 75—Cleaner SP 837—Chuck SP 338—Cutter

ENGINE-SECTION 5 C-260—Ring Installer C-263—Ring Compressor C-385—Ring Compressor C-394—Scale C-430—Dial Indicator C-455—Box Wrench C-481—Fixture C-484—Pliers

C-3059—Bearing Remover C-3068—Holder C-3131—Seal Installer C-3160—Tappet Pliers C-3158—Tappet Remover C-3159—Driver C-3162—Lifting Bracket C-3200—Reamer C-3209—Holding Fixture C-3221—Piston Remover C-3379—Adjusting Bracket C-3427—Reamer C-3428—Spring Compresser C-3430—Reamer C-3436—Gauge C-3443—Reamer C-3491—Fixture C-3501—Hone C-3506—Seal Remover-Installer C-3509—Gear Installer CM 119—Dial Indicator DD146B—Fixture DD849—Remover MTH8O—Grinder MTHIB4l—Grinder 377S—Boring Bar 9230—Dial Indicator

527

DODGE SERVICE MANUAL

528

EXHAUST-SECTION 6

SPECIAL T O O L S - ( C o n t ' d ) REAR AXLE AND SUSPENSION-SECTION 11

T-109-173

FRAME-SECTION 7 No Special Tools Required FRONT SUSPENSION-SECTION 8 C-3553—Bushing Remover-Installer C-3556—Driver C-3559—Bushing Remover-Installer C-3560—Socket C-3564—Ball Joint Stud Remover

FUEL SYSTEM-SECTION 9 C-483—Gauge C-3225—Repair Stand C-3400—Repair Stand C-3582—Wrench C-3584—Puller T-109-29—Wire Gauge T-109-41—Bending Tool T-l09-58—Jet Remover-Installer T-l 09-166—Gauge-Unloader T-109-197—Gauge T-109-200—Wire Gauge T-109-213—Bending Tool T-109-214—Bending Tool T-l09-222—Float Gauge (·¾„") T-l09-223—Float Gauge (¼") T-l09-242—Gauge ( 2 ¾ 4 ") T-l 9099—Plug Remover—Installer T-24733—Bending Tool T-24924—Jet Remover-Installer T-24967—Jet Remover-Installer T-24968—Jet Remover-Installer T-25047—Wrench T-25184—Jet Remover-Installer T-25569—Float Gauge T-25863—Bending Tool T-25864—Weight T-25906—Spring T-26019—Float Gauge .040"—Wire No. 3—Drill No. 19—Drill No. 31—Drill No. 37—Drill ¼"—Drill

LUBRICATION-SECTION 10 No Special Tools Required

C-158—Driver C-293-13—Bearing Puller C-359—Driver C-4O6A—Wrench C-413—Driver C-452—Flange Puller C-496—Flange Installer C-499—Bearing Puller C-552—Pin Remover C-637—Seal Puller C-748—Seal Puller C-757—Sleeve C-758D2—Preload Tool C-784—Holding Tool C-839—Driver C-845—Drum Puller C-3313—Pin Installer DD996—Driver DD1005—Driver SP-528—Block SP-533—Nut SP-534—Washer SP-535—Adaptor SP-561—Arbor SP-l 730—Sleeve

STEERING-SECTION 12 C-143—Puller C-612—Puller C-760—Pliers C-3106—Pliers C-3185—Seal Remover C-3229—Pliers C-3313—Pilot Pin and Spacer C-332OA—Wrench C-3321—Wrench C-3323—Fixture C-3326—Wrench C-3328—Thimble C-3331A—Driver C-3332—Bearing Remover C-3333—Driver C-3344—Piston and Ring Installer C-3350—Seal Remover-Installer C-3380—Torque Wrench C-3392—Wedge C-3401—Thimble C-3402—Puller C-3445—Centering Tool C-3450—Seal Remover C-3482A—Fixture C-3486—Driver

SPECIAL TOOLS

529

SPECIAL TOOLS-(Cont'd) STEERING-SECTION 12 (Cont'd) C-3554—Protector C-3555—Flange C-3560—Socket C-3564—Ball Joint Stud Remover SP1927—Pilot

TRANSMISSION-SECTION 13 (Standard) C-452—Puller C-484—Pliers C-578—Arbor C-748—Puller C-870—Arbor C-3105—Driver C-3204—Driver C-3275—Driver C-3577—Driver C-3281—Wrench C-3301—Pliers C-3304—Arms DD1014—Stand, repair

(PowerFlite) C 452—Puller C-484—Pliers C-589—Wrench C-748—Puller C-760—Pliers C-811—Wrench C-3201A—Jack C-32O3A—Jack C-3204—Driver C-3205—Driver C-3275—Driver C-3276—Pilots C-3278—Driver C-3279B—Wrench C-3280—Stand C-3281—Wrench C-3283—Pilots C-3288—Pilots C-3289*—Fixture C-3292—Gauge C-3293—Gauge C-3294—Stand C-3295—Pilots C-3297 *—Remover-Installer C-3301—Pliers C-3533—Compressor C-3355—Straightedge C-3339—Set-Dial Indicator C-3380—Wrench

C-3461—Fixture C-3487—Support C-3583—Extension DD1150—Tachometer *See TorqueFlite Tool List

(TorqueFlite) The following Special Tools are needed, in addition to PowerFlite Tools, for servicing the TorqueFlite 3-Speed Automatic Transmission: C-3527—Gauge—Overrunning Clutch Assembly C-3528—Stand—(pr.) Valve Body Holding * C-3529—Fixture — Compressing Servo Reverse and Kickdown Spring (supersedes C-3289 which can be converted to C-3529) See Figure 65 in TorqueFlite Section of this manual. *C-3531—Tool—Remover and Installer Reaction Shaft (supersedes C-3297) (If C-3297 is available, use C-3535 Adapters to convert to C-3531) C-3583—Adapter—for C-338O Torque Wrench C-3577—Compressor—Front and Rear Clutch Piston Return Spring

WHEELS AND TIRES-SECTION 14 C-3440—Constrictor C-3455—Tire Bead Breaker

AIR CONDITIONING-SECTION 15 C-3128—Pliers C-3354—Testing Outfit C-3355—Goggles—Safety C-3356—Thermometer Set C-3358—Wrench Set C-3361—Wrench—Ratchet C-3363—Wrench Set C-3365—Hose C-3366—Hose C-3372—Pump C-3420—Adapter C-3421—Clip C 3444—Torch C-3473—Puller and Installer C-744—Test Lamp SP2922—Vent Cap C-804—Tool—Tube Flaring C-3362—Bender Set C-3429—Scale C-3478—Cutter—Tube

BODY AND SHEET METAL-SECTION 16 C-3005—Wrench—100 Foot-Pound C-3412—Tool C-3448—Remover, Inside Handles C-3449—Remover and Installer—Trunk Lid Torsion Bar