cook-at-home

one fish, two fish

buying and preparing seafood

Fish and shellfish can be tricky foods for the home cook. But armed with a little knowledge, you can prepare healthy and flavorful seafood dishes. Let’s get shopping

Buy the best quality you can. Fish fillets should smell fresh (not fishy). The fillets’ flesh and skin should appear moist and have an even color. The fillets should be chilled, not sitting in liquid.

Consider purchasing dry scallops, as they are more flavorful and sear better than wet scallops. Select sea scallops for an affordable seafood option. Bay scallops are smaller, sweeter, and more tender.

When purchasing mussels and clams, be sure the shells are firmly closed. Store them in the fridge in a bowl covered with a clean, damp dishcloth for up to two days after purchase.

One of the most common varieties of shellfish is shrimp. To prep shrimp, remove the shells by cracking them with your fingers and then removing the shells. Devein the shrimp by running a sharp knife down the back of each shrimp to remove the black streak. Wash under cold water and prepare as the recipe directs.

Canned, tinned, and frozen seafood are good choices, and they’re often more affordable and have a longer shelf life than fresh varieties.

Store seafood in its wrapping in the coldest part of the fridge, away from the door, to avoid temperature swings when the door opens.

It’s time to cook!

Steam: Some of the best fish for steaming are fillets of sole, sea bass, red snapper, sea bream, red mullet, and gray mullet. To steam fish, season the fillet with salt and desired seasonings, and brush with melted butter. Place the fillet into a steamer and steam over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the fillet is cooked through.

Pan-Fry: Select the pan-frying method for fillets of cod, salmon, haddock, and hake. To pan-fry, season the fish and drizzle with oil. Heat a nonstick pan over medium heat. (Make sure the temperature’s not too high, or the fish will overcook and the skin will burn.) Place fish skin-side down and fry for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until opaque at edges. Flip fish and fry for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, or until firm to the touch.

Bake: Red mullet, sea bass, mackerel, trout, and plaice are great for baking. Preheat oven to 400˚. Rub the fish all over with oil and season. Place on a baking tray and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the skin is crispy and the fish feels firm to the touch.

Grill: Fillets of trout, John Dory, gray mullet, red snapper, sea bass, and mackerel work best for barbecuing or chargrilling. Heat the grill or a chargrill pan. Season fillets and drizzle with oil. Place the fillet skin-side down on the grill or pan, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Turn over and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, or until the flesh is firm to the touch and the skin remains crispy. ●

SELECTED SOURCES The Flavor Bible by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg ($35, Little, Brown and Company, 2008) • Fresh Fish by Jennifer Trainer Thompson ($19.95, Storey, 2016) • The Joy of Seafood by Barton Seaver ($35, Sterling Epicure, 2019) • My Cooking Class: Seafood Basics by Abi Fawcett ($24.95, Firefly, 2012)

40 min

From To the Last Bite by Alexis DeBoschnek ($32.50, Simon & Schuster, 2022)

1 tsp black peppercorns 1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed 1½ lb center-cut, skin-off halibut fillet

3 c (2 pints) cherry tomatoes, halved 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced lengthwise 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 5 sprigs dill, fronds only 1½ tsp kosher salt ¾ c olive oil 1. Preheat oven to 300˚. prep time serves 4

2. In a mortar, add peppercorns and crush with a pestle. Alternatively, you can use the back of a chef’s knife to press down on peppercorns until they crack. 3. Lay lemon slices on bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish and place halibut on top. Arrange tomatoes, shallot, garlic, and dill around halibut, and season with salt and cracked peppercorns. Pour olive oil over top, making sure halibut is entirely coated with oil. 4. Transfer baking dish to oven and roast until halibut is just cooked through and easily flakes when nudged with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes. 5. Serve halibut with tomato mixture spooned on top. The halibut can be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Per serving: 438 Calories, 34 g Protein, 10 g Carbohydrates, 5 g Total sugars (0 g Added sugars), 3 g Fiber, 30 g Total fat (4 g sat), 831 mg Sodium, ★★★★★ Vitamin B3 (niacin), B6, B12, D, Phosphorus, ★★★ Vitamin C, E, ★★ Vitamin K, Potassium, ★ Vitamin A, B1 (thiamine), Folate, Magnesium

Focus on flavor

Consider the following flavor boosters for fish: green apples, garlic, ginger, mint, Old Bay seasoning, olive oil, fennel, citrus, capers, fruit, avocados, onions, olives, parsley, vinaigrettes, rosemary, saffron, shallots, and red pepper flakes.

For shellfish, add the following flavors: basil, celery, chives, almonds, curry, fruit, grapefruit, hoisin sauce, coconut, cilantro, tomatoes, vinegar, lemongrass, and tarragon.