Transformation Process . China - Europe - China
TREND CHINA [China / 中 ] Hu Xinhui | 胡馨卉
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
NCCH HCCN
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
TREND CHINA
Affection and Gratitude
Armin Blasbichler ,Oliver Mac Connell ,Heinz Wagner
design management | 设计管理
目录 Content
项目概述
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市场现状分析
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项目机遇
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客户群划分
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竞争优势
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竞争环境
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价值 & 影响
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design management | 设计管理
目录 Content
1
Business Overview
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Market Situation
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Project Opportunities
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Customers
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Competitive Advantage
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The Competition
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Value & Implications
design management | 设计管理
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项目概述
业 务 描 述 设计时尚产业是时代发展的产物，产业发展到一定高度，产业链日趋完善。中国的设计 产业发展时间不长，无论在发展阶段还是市场成熟度上，都还有长长的路要走。纵观现 如今的中国设计市场，90% 的高档商品都是外国货。当中国人在奢侈品消费的道路上一路 狂飙之时，很少有人注意到中国本土奢侈品牌在国内的尴尬境遇。上海滩、法蓝瓷、麒 麟等品牌，他们也许无法打动国内消费者，但在国际上却赚足了眼球。 问题是：中国元素奢侈品牌究竟拿什么来打动国内消费者。如果连本土消费者都搞不定， 谈何发展？
本品牌经营模式描述 针对当前中国消费者心理需求，本品牌经营模式定位为全球性奢侈品品牌，以瑞士品牌 入主消费心理。中国元素为设计主导，结合瑞士制造的高品质保证，之后以奢侈品概念 进军中国市场。 即使是在当前全球一体化的品牌经营模式下，仍然 LV 香奈儿 是法国标签，普拉达是意 大利标签，无印良品 优衣库则是日本标签。 本项目品牌所要代表的就是中国的文化元素和标签，传承的是中国设计文化的精髓，体 现中国产品的品质高度。
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Business Overview
Description of the Business The design fashion industry is the product of the era development. When the industry is developed to a certain level, the industrial chain is being improved. It’s been a short time since China’s design industry was developed. It still has a long way to go in both development stage and market maturity. Looking at Chinese design market of today, 90% of high-end commodities are foreign ones. When Chinese people keep crazy about luxury consumption, few people notice that Chinese local luxury brands face an embarrassing situation in China. Shanghai Tang, Franz and Qeelin may not be able to move Chinese consumers but they attract enough attention on the international market. The question is: how can Chinese element luxury brands on earth touch Chinese consumers? If they can’t even win local Chinese consumers, their development the question. The description of this project brand management mode Based on the mental needs of Chinese consumers, The position of the brand as an international luxury brand that wins consumers’ hearts with a Swiss title. The brand is supported by China elements of design-led, with the Swiss-made high-quality guarantee, which is going to be a new force in the Chinese luxury market. Although we are in the globalized business mode, LV and CHANEL still stands for France, BOTTEGA VENETA and PRADA speak for Italy, while MUJI and UNIQLO represent Japan. For TREND project brand is intended to symbolize the Chinese culture, to present the essence of design as well as the high quality.
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项目概述
问 卷 调 查 分 析 要决定的是用那一种产品来实践，找到客户需求从而进行设计及服务。 针对中国客户群体的一个调查问卷：5 个提问针对中国，5 个提问针对瑞士。调查问卷发 放的城市为上海 北京，参与人群均为高薪白领阶层，年龄主要分布在 20 岁 ～ 30 岁。 本调查问卷如下： 传统文化印象调查 结果统计 ：152 数据量 ：386 浏览量：39. 填写率 ：38% 姓名 : 有效的应对措施 平均用时 ：0:04:31
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Business Overview
Questionnaire Analysis What’s to be decided is which product shall be used for practice and to locate customers’ demands before conducting designs and services. A questionnaire aimed for target Chinese customers: five question for China and five question for Switzerland. Questionnaire issued by the city of Shanghai and Beijing, people involved in high-paying white-collar workers are mainly distributed in the 20 years old to 30 years old. This Questionnaire is divided into the following sections: Traditional Culture Statistical results ：152 The amount of data ：386 Pageviews ：39. Fill Rate ：38% Name: Effective responses Average time ：0:04:31
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项目概述
问 卷 调 查 分 析
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Business Overview
Questionnaire Analysis
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项目概述
问 卷 调 查 分 析
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Business Overview
Questionnaire Analysis
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项目概述
问 卷 调 查 分 析
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Business Overview
Questionnaire Analysis
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项目概述
产 品 & 服 务 定 位 通过调查问卷我们也得出一个结论，中国客户对瑞士产品的认可度和安全心理价格很高。 为了多方面推广中国文化传统。基于调查问卷分析，中国客户对中国传统文化的偏好和 趋势喜好，我们通过 3 个方面来诠释这个产品： 形态 ( 中国传统文化元素 ) 材料 ( 呼吁合理利用丰富又珍贵的原材料 ) 工艺 ( 中国传统工艺技术的传承 )。 为了更好地诠释中国文化和瑞士文化的优良结合，本项目分成 3 个表达形式。 a: 中国的形态 结合 瑞士的材料 b: 瑞士的形态 结合 中国的材料 c: 中国的传统工艺 结合 现代精工技术
表达形式说明： a: 产品：梳子 b: 吊牌：极薄陶瓷 c: 包装：榫卯结构亚克力
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Business Overview
Products & Services It can be concluded from the questionnaire survey that Chinese customers approve Swiss products and have a high psychological price. In order to popularize Chinese cultural traditions from multiple aspects, and based on Chinese customers’ preference from the questionnaire analysis, we intend to interpret the project through three aspects: Form (Chinese traditional cultural elements) Material (Appeal to the rational use of precious raw materials) Process (Heritage Chinese traditional process technology) In order to better interpret the good combination of Chinese culture with Switzerland culture, the expression of this project is divided into three parts. a: Chinese Form combinde Switzerland Material b: Swiss Form combine Chinese Material c: China's Traditional Process combine Modern Precision Techniques Expression form Description: a: Products: Combs b: Label: Thin ceramic c: Package: Tenon process with Acrylic
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项目概述
产 品 & 服 务 定 位 中国的形态 结合 瑞士的材料
从中国传统手工艺生活用品中选择一个能够表达健康的生活方式和环境的产品造型。又 能体现手工精工制作。并且能够承载着文化传承的意义。所以的因素都指向了－－－梳子。 梳子在中国的历史可追溯至新石器时代晚期，良渚文化墓葬遗址发现数量可观的玉梳背， 用作榫接象牙齿。而榫卯技术又是建筑营造工艺的一种重要体现。 而梳子并不仅仅是中国人的生活习惯用品，在全世界都是通用的一件生活用品，这为本 产品的未来发展提供了更大的市场可能性。 梳子：中国形态与瑞士材料的结合，使用瑞士的手工艺技术。
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Business Overview
Products & Services Chinese Form combinde Switzerland Material
From Chinese traditional arts and crafts supplies, choose a healthy lifestyle and the environment can be expressed modeling form. But also reflects the finely crafted by hand. And capable of carrying the cultural heritage significance. Therefore, factors that point to --- Comb. Combs history in China can be traced back to the late Neolithic period,Liangzhu Culture burial site found a significant number of jade comb back, connected by tenon process. The tenon is an important manifestation of the heritage Chinese traditional process technology. The comb is not just Chinese people's living habits suppliesďźŒin the world are common household items, future-oriented product development that provides greater market possibilities. Comb: combination of Chinese form and Swiss materials; use of Swiss handicraft technology.
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项目概述
产 品 & 服 务 定 位 中国的形态 结合 瑞士的材料
中国形态 : 对于情感的寄求。古人对于情爱的表达远比今人婉约，那些隐晦的思念细腻 而长久。梳子对于今日的我们更多的是一种工具，而在古代它却有着更深的寓意。中国 的古时用头发寄托相思之情，因少女的满头青丝可以喻指情丝，而缠绕三千情丝的梳子 自然成了男女间的定情信物。而在女子出嫁前，家中长者也会为其梳头“一梳梳到底， 二梳白发齐眉，三梳子孙满堂”是长者对晚辈的寄望，又何尝不是一种温婉幸福的传承。 在情感上，中国形态表达最深刻的是龙凤图案，龙凤美满爱情结合的寓意。通过精工雕 刻出来的龙凤图案是经过现代改良的造型表达。 瑞士材料 : 选择在瑞士生长的牛角作为梳子的材料。包含着瑞士本土的寓意和中医对牛 角梳健康理解。 瑞士的牛群健康生长在最纯净的阿尔卑斯山脉，幽静安逸的生长环境给了他们健康和强 壮的体魄。而引以为豪的牛角也格外的坚固和强大。 瑞士的牛角的另外一个意义是瑞士长号 - 自然色调的声音。随着时间的推移，瑞士长号 是几乎完全消失的瑞士牧羊人所使用的仪器。这是只有在 19 世纪的浪漫主义和民俗旅游 的瑞士长号经历了文艺复兴，甚至成为国家的复兴象征。他们完美应用在演唱会，派对， 教会服务，婚礼，葬礼，生日庆典等。这是瑞士美好生活方式的传统体现，也是瑞士需 要传承的文化。
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Business Overview
Products & Services Chinese Form combinde Switzerland Material
Chinese form :Emotional appeal. In ancient times, people expressed love in a more graceful and restrained way. Those obscure yearning is fine and long-lasting. Comb, for us nowadays, is more like a tool but it carried deeper meanings in ancient times. Ancient people used hair to extend their feelings when they missed someone because girls’ black hair can be signified as lingering affection. Combs twined with hair naturally serve as the token of love between men and women. Before women were married, elders in their families combed their hair, “first move to the end; second move indicates a devoted couple to the end of their lives and third move represents a wish for many children and grandchildren”. It’s an inheritance of gentle happiness. In terms of feelings, the most profound shape is dragon and phoenix pattern which has a connotation of love. Seiko carved out by the dragon and phoenix patterns are modified through modern styling expression. Swiss materials: Ox horn produced in Switzerland is used to make combs, covering local Swiss connotations and traditional Chinese medicine’s healthy understanding of ox horn combs. Swiss herd healthy growth in the purest of the Alps, quiet comfortable environment for their healthy growth and strong physique. And proud of horns also exceptionally robust and powerful. Another meaning is Swisshorn – the sound of natural tones. With the passing of time, the alphorn almost totally disappeared as an instrument used by Swiss shepherds. It was only with the romanticism of the 19th century and the revival of folklore and tourism that the alphorn experienced a renaissance and even became a national symbol. they have also played in concerts, parties, church services, weddings, funerals, birthday celebrations, etc. This is reflected in the Swiss tradition of a healthy lifestyle, but also the cultural heritage of Switzerland.
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项目概述
产 品 & 服 务 定 位 中国的材料 结合 瑞士的形态
标牌：中国材料与瑞士形态的结合，使用中国现代技术的极薄陶瓷手工艺技术 (2014 年 新技术研发结果 )。 瑞士形态：全世界唯独只有在瑞士制造的产品才都会有一个引以为豪的瑞士国旗红十字 图案标志。这是一个高品质最直接和有力的表达。完全继承着瑞士高品质盒高要求的水准， 提供最可靠的保证。 中国材料：使用中国的骨瓷作为材料，不仅仅是遵循调查问卷中，中国顾客对陶瓷工艺 传承的愿望。骨瓷的生产原料是中国稀土的一种叫高岭土。中国是世界上稀土资源最大 的国家，由于种种原因，稀有珍贵的资源在中国被滥用和浪费的状况非常严重，这么珍 贵的资源如果能够更合理地利用，不但能提高中国的科技能力，更会让当地贫困人民的 生活得到大改善。 吊牌生产：辛遥遥（中国青年设计师，2008-2010 年作品先后获得德国产品设计 Red dot 和 IF 设计奖）和她的极薄陶瓷工艺（2014 年本系列产品参加米兰沙龙设计展） 品牌设计由在瑞士巴塞尔艺术与设计学院的中国学生和外国学生共同设计完成，设计理 解的结合，让品牌不脱离中国本土意味，又能结合更多外来设计思考。
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Business Overview
Products & Services Chinese Material combinde Switzerland Form
Label: combination of Chinese materials and Swiss form; application of Chinese modern technology thin ceramic handicraft techniques (2014 R & D). Swiss form :Only Swiss Made products in the world are accompanied by the Swiss flag, a red cross symbol which makes people proud. It’s the most direct and powerful expression of high quality. Switzerland fully inherited the standard of high quality and high demand, provide the most reliable guarantee. Chinese materials :According to the questionnaire, Chinese customers prefer ceramics so bone china is regarded as materials. The raw material for bone chain is kaolin, rare earth of China. China possesses the greatest rare earth resources in the world. Rare and precious resources are abused and wasted in China for different reasons. If such valuable resources can be reasonably utilized, it can not only enhance China’s science and technology ability but also greatly improve the livelihood of local poor people. Tag production: XIN Yaoyao (a young Chinese designer who successively gained German product design Red dot and IF Design Award from 2008 to 2010) and her extremely thin ceramics technology (the product was exhibited at the Milan salon design show in 2014) Brand AmbassadorsďźŒChinese students and foreign students in Basel Institute of Art and Design in Switzerland jointly complete brand design. The combination of design understandings enables the brand to get rid of local Chinese meanings and incorporate more external design thoughts.
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项目概述
产 品 & 服 务 定 位 中国的传统工艺 结合 现代精工技术
包装：中国传统营造工艺榫卯结构，结合现代材料亚克力。 榫卯结构 : 中国古建筑以木材、砖瓦为主要建筑材料 , 以木构架结构为主要的结构方式 , 由立柱、 横梁、顺檩等主要构件建造而成 , 各个构件之间的结点以榫卯相吻合 , 构成富 有弹性的框架。 榫卯是极为精巧的发明 , 这种构件连接方式 , 使得中国传统的木结构成 为超越了当代建筑排架、 框架或者架的特殊柔性结构体 , 不但可以承受较大的荷载 , 而 且允许产生一定的变形 , 在地震荷 载下通过变形抵消一定的地震能量 , 减小结构的地震 响应。 榫卯是在两个木构件上所采用的一种凹凸结合的连接方式。凸出部分叫榫 ( 或榫 头 ); 凹进部分 叫卯 ( 或榫眼、榫槽 ), 榫和卯咬合 , 起到连接作用。 榫卯结构广泛用 于建筑 , 同时也广泛用于家具 , 体现出家具与建筑的密切关系。这种结构成了后 代建筑 和中式家具的基本模式。 现代材料 : 利用现代 CNC 精确切割亚克力，更精确地表达榫卯衔接的精细要求。现代技 术与传统工艺的结合表达。 盒子生产：Tara Ko 毕业于香港理工大学平面设计学士课程，曾任职于多件 4AS 广告公 司的美术总监。与 Polly Lay 在 2004 年成立 EEscafe Studio, 主力平面及广告设计。 Escafe 是创意空间多余工作室，也是和朋友及其他设计师成员分享设计理念和生活态度 的地方。 2001 年 Tara 于意大利米兰的 Domus Academy 就读 The Master Class in Accessories 后， 结合意念 美感，艺术的创作想法，于 2008 年开始创作首饰系列，名为 Bittergrain. Bittergrain 是 Tars 自行发挥创意的首饰品牌。她的每一个设计都来自工作空档时的想 法。用一种创作的形式舒缓自己的创意灵感，Tara 很享受新手制作的过程，这样能帮助 消化和解除不少在做广告和平面设计时候的压力。
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Business Overview
Products & Services China's Traditional Process combine Modern Precision Techniques
Packaging: mortise and tenon joint structure, a traditional Chinese technology; Combined with modern materials Acrylic. Tenon process: It,s an ancient Chinese architecture with wood and brick as the main building materials and wood framed structures as the major frameworks. It is built by columns, beams, purlins and other major components together and the junction of various components is fit with the tenon so as to make the framework flexible. Tenon is an extremely elaborate invention, the connection method of which enables the traditional Chinese wooden structure with special flexibilities to exceed any modern architectural frameworks. It not only can withstand great loads but also allow a certain deformation, which has the advantage of offsetting certain seismic energy, and reduce the seismic response of the structure when earthquake comes. Tenon structure connects two wooden components in a concavo-convex way. The convex part is called tenon and the concavo part is named Mao (or mortise, tongue and groove). The occlusion of tenon and mortise helps with the interconnection.
 Tenon structure is widely used in constructions and furnitures, in which it can reflect the close relationship between furnitures and architectures. This structure has become the basic model of the buildings and later Chinese furnitures. Modern materials : modern CNC cutting acrylic is used to meet with fineness requirements of the structure; a combined expression of modern and traditional technologies. Box production:Tara graduated from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University where she majored in Graphic Design.in 2004 she set up her own design studio - ESCAFE along with her partner Polly Lay.the ESCAFE studio works both in graphic materials that are simple and interesting, creating something wearable and stylish that also has an intrinsic and meaningful interpretation. In the Summer of 2007,Tara joined the Master Class in Accessories at Domus Academy in Milan, and later on in 2008 they launched their own jewelry brand - Bittergrain. Bittergrain is project in which Tara can fully unleash her creativity and each of her works orgins from the ideas springing up in her work neutral.
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项目概述
定 价 和 分 销 如何抓住这样快速发展的市场？除了有效地充分社交网络营销与把奢侈品牌的文化深入 消费者意识之外，更加重要的则是消费服务体验。事实上，我觉得更加重要的并非店内 的服务销售，而是全方位的消费服务以及体验消费的结合。虽然奢侈品牌的定位不同， 但是既然奢侈品牌也同样开始进驻淘宝等进行网购，那么建立起实体、虚拟——专卖店 与社交网络的结合，同样也必不可少。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
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Business Overview
Pricing and Distribution How to seize the market with such rapid development? In addition to effective social network marketing and instillation of luxury brand culture into consumers’ consciousness, another important thing is consumption service experience. As a matter of fact, I think what’s more important is the combination of comprehensive consumption services and experience consumption rather than service sales inside the store. Although luxury brands have different orientations, the combination of physical and virtual--outlets and social network is equally essential in that luxury brands open stores on Taobao.
Store sales is the key, but the growing importance of the Internet and has become the second largest buyer-transit track
Internet Word of mouth Traditional media
Store
Outlet
Data source: McKinsey Greater China
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design management | 设计管理
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市场现状分析
中国高端设计行业现状
这份麦肯锡解读中国的数据主要提到了三个关于中国奢侈品市场发展的特征。与此同时， 也暴露了中国产品在本土市场的脆弱 薄弱和不稳定性。 1. 财富迅速增长，社会习俗日渐支持炫富，使得中国消费者对于海外奢侈品日益青睐。 显而易见的是，中国消费者对海外奢侈品的过分推崇，极大限制了中国传统产品在中国 市场的发展。 2. 互联网信息、海外旅行以及逐渐丰富的奢侈消费品体验，使得中国奢侈品消费者日益 成熟。便利的海外购物方式和全球化的购物平台，让中国传统产品仅在中国这个开放的 市场平台，就已经完全暴露在更加严峻的竞争环境之下。 3. 大城市以外的地区快速城市化，日益增长的财富，继续催生奢侈品市场以及消费群体。 大量消费者成为海外购物消费人群，中国设计行业在中国消费市场的平台趋于瓶颈化状 态。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
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Market Situation
Chinese Luxury design industry The data from Mckinsey Insights China presents three characteristics of the development of China’s luxury market. In addition, it also reveals the vulnerability, weakness and instability of the local products. 1. With the booming economy, people who like to flaunt wealth have gained higher acceptance in the society, which leads to a more mature luxury market. Obviously, the excessive popularity of foreign luxury products has greatly limited the market of traditional products. 2. Chinese consumers in the luxury market have been growing more mature thanks to the Internet, overseas traveling and past consumption experience. Since overseas purchase and international shopping platforms are accessible and convenient, the competition has become fiercer than ever for the local products, even in the domestic market. 3. Beyond the large cities, many regions are under the process of urbanization, during when the economy develops quickly, and so does the group of luxury consumers, a large number of whom become consumers of the overseas luxury market. China’s design industry is hitting a bottleneck in the domestic market.
Data source: McKinsey Greater China
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市场现状分析
消 费 心 理 中国奢侈品消费者日渐成熟的表现在于：他们对于品牌的认知度越来越高；对于价格的 认识也越来越充分，通过海外购物，特别是香港购物的经历，越来越多的消费者意识到 国内国外奢侈品牌的价格差异；已经不愿购买奢侈品的 A 货，追求品质、品牌以及工艺， 成为了消费者购买奢侈品的前三大主要考虑因素。“低调炫富”，选择比较低调的奢侈 品消费模式也越来越受到青睐，以避免“炫富的低俗”以及“抢老板风头”。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
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Market Situation
Consumer Psychology China’s luxury brand consumers are getting maturer and maturer, which is demonstrated as follows: they have greater cognition of brands and the price; through overseas shopping, especially Hong Kong shopping experience, more and more consumers realize the price difference between domestic and foreign luxury brands; they are no longer willing to buy luxury knockoffs and instead, they pursue quality, brand and crafts which are top three factors influencing consumers’ luxury purchase. “Low-profile show-off” and low-profile luxury consumption model are being increasingly favored so as to avoid “vulgar show-off” and “steal the boss’ thunder”.
Data source: McKinsey Greater China
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design management | 设计管理
3
项目机遇
解 决 方 式 判 断 中国反腐机制的影响和政府保护作用 《法兰克福汇报》刊文指出，全球奢侈品市场今年增幅放缓，其中重要原因就是因为中 国以及俄罗斯客户的消费意愿下降。文章写道：" 作为重要的奢侈品市场，中国今年的 经济增长乏力，对全球奢侈品行业造成了很大影响。而且，那里正在大力开展的反腐运 动也对奢侈品市场造成了不利影响，毕竟，昂贵的礼物已经越发少见 "。贝恩咨询的一 项调研显示，今年由于反腐等因素，中国的奢侈品销量首次出现下滑，跌幅约为 2%。报 告作者指出，中国奢侈品市场曾经一度异常火爆，当前趋于降温的主要原因在于政府发 起 " 提倡节俭，抵制腐败 " 的运动大大减少了中国人送礼的额度。而 " 送礼风 " 曾经是 奢侈品行业发展的主要动力之一。 中国加入 WTO，承担了开放市场的义务。首先，来自于新的游戏规则的挑战，就将按照 国际惯例办事。其次，来自于国外企业竞争优势的挑战。政府保护在此时显得力不从心。 市场竞争优胜劣汰的关键在于产品的质量价格比，产品的竞争力又与企业的技术水平和 成本高低有关，而本国产品在国内市场上的竞争力与关税及的高低有关。此前过度依赖 本土政策的中国传统产品没有了垄断经济的保护，面对外来的挑战显得格外脆弱。 面对中国反腐机制，全球奢侈品行业在中国市场上面临一定程度的政治环境阻扰。这一 喘息为中国本土高端商品的发展带来了市场空间和突破机遇。然而老牌传统的本土产品 在中国加入 WTO 新的游戏规则后，又稍显脆弱。 而本品牌的经营模式，不仅克服了本土产品的对外脆弱性，又在最适当的时机抓住了中 国市场的这一开放口子。
38
Project Opportunities
Solution Analysis The influence of China’s anti-corruption policy and government protection. According to an article on Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, the increase rate of global luxury market slowed down this year, which partly results from the decreased willingness to purchase of Chinese and Russian consumers. The article says, “China, as an important luxury market, has sluggish economy this year, which has inserted a large impact on global luxury industry. Besides, the ongoing anti-corruption campaign has also harmed the market. After all, expensive gifts are becoming rare.” Based on a research led by Bain & Company, sales of luxury products dropped by 2%for the first time due to the anti-corruption policy and other factors. The author the report points out that the luxury market has once been extremely exuberant; yet, it cooled down soon after government launched the campaign “Encourage Frugality, Fight Corruption”. “Giving presents” has been the force of luxury industry. Since China’s entrance to the WTO, it has been committed to open its market. First of all, it has to follow the international rules in such new situation. Besides, it has been facing challenges from foreign rivals. In this case, government protection seems to fall short. The key to market competition is quality and price. The competitiveness of products is related to technology and cost while the competitiveness of domestic products partly depends on customs. Traditional Chinese products that overly relied on local policies have lost protection from monopoly economy and seem vulnerable in front of challenges from all over the world. The political environment in China, specifically, the anti-corruption campaign, remains an obstacle for global luxury industry. Meanwhile, this has provided an opportunity for the local high-end products to earn more market share. However, traditional local products have become less competitive since China joined the WTO. For this project brand management mode has not only fixed the vulnerability of local products, but also taken advantage of China’s open market.
39
项目机遇
解 决 方 式 判 断 汇率的变化对中国奢侈品市场的影响 国际货币基金组织 (IMF) 官方确认，人民币不再被低估。由于人民币过去 10 年兑一篮子 货币已升值超过 30%，2015 年 4 月，IMF 亚洲及太平洋部副主任罗德劳尔改变口风说：“现 在我们快将达致 ( 将人民币汇率评定为 )‘不再被低估’的那个点。” 而受欧洲经济增 长陷入停滞及欧洲央行量化宽松预期影响，欧元对美元汇率 13 日一度跌至 1.1753，创下 自 2005 年 12 月 8 日以来新低。 全球经济状况的变化对国内市场供给需求大洗牌 引起消费变化的主要因素之一收入效应（Income Effect），此刻在国民收入正增长及人 民币汇率持续走高，而欧元汇率一度下跌的经济环境下，得到了充分体现。它表示中国 消费者的效用水平发生变化。具体来说就是，中国消费者在购买他国奢侈品时，由于汇 率因素，该种商品的价格下降了，对于中国消费者来说，所持有的名义货币收入是固定 不变的，但是价格下降后，实际购买力增强了，就可以买得更多得该种商品 . 这种实际 货币收入的提高，改变了中国消费者对奢侈品的购买量，从而达到更高的效用水平。 香奈儿决定自 2015 年 4 月 8 日起协调全球各个市场的价格差距，奢侈品品牌香奈儿将下 调中国内地售价，同时上调欧洲售价，幅度均为 20%，调价后两地价差不超过 5%。香奈 儿公司称，此次调价为缩小各个市场价差，打击代购市场。分析认为，香奈儿的降价会 引发整个奢侈品行业的降价趋势。而此决策的牵引效果，对于中国狂热的奢侈品海淘消 费市场来说，无疑是一次海外奢侈品集体涨价的形式。 引起消费变化的另一主要因素之一替代效应（Substitution Effect）在此时发生效用。 因为名义价格的变相升高，从而导致的中国消费者在考虑购买奢侈品的商品组合中，海 外奢侈品与其他商品之间会发生选择替代现象。 显而易见，中国消费者的收入水平趋势为奢侈品消费的市场份额带来了更多的契机。而 欧元的贬值和人民币的经济价值提升，为奢侈品市场开放了更大的供给需求。全球众多 老牌奢侈品品牌集体在中国掀起一场降价营销风潮，引起中国奢侈品消费变化，通过享 受奢侈品，来满足融入更高级社交圈子的渴望在此风潮之下显得庸俗和牵强。由于这些 客观原因的导向，中国消费者势必开始寻求更高端和个性化的奢侈品替代老牌消费理念， 希望尽快在人群中脱颖。 此时的全球经济环境，正毫无意识地在给中国本土的奢侈品市场开放一个隐性的窗口， 让中国的本土设计产品能有机会撕开一个大口子，逐步挽回曾经失去的领土。
40
Project Opportunities
Solution Analysis Effect of exchange rate changes on China's luxury market IMF confirms that RMB is no longer undervalued. In the past decade, RMB against a basket of currencies has climbed by over 30%. April 2015, Markus Rodlauer, deputy director of the Asia and Pacific Department for IMF, changed his previous statement and said, “We are now reaching a point where” the yuan is close to “no longer being undervalued”. However, affected by the economic depression in Europe and ECB’s quantitative easing, European once dropped to 1.1753 against the U.S. dollar, hitting the lowest point since December 8, 2005. The global economic change leads to a shakeout in the domestic market One of the key factors to consumption change is Income Effect, which has become more obvious under the circumstance when both national income and RMB exchange rate are rising, and the European exchange rate is decreasing. This means that the utility level of Chinese consumers is undergoing a change. To be specific, since the prices of foreign luxury products are lower thanks to the exchange rate, and the income in nominal currency of the customers remain the same, they actually have a stronger consumption capacity and are able to buy more products. Such change has influenced the number overseas purchases and leads to a higher utility level. Chanel has made a decision to balance the price gap around the globe. After April 8th, 2015, Chanel’s products will be sold in lower prices in Mainland China while in higher prices among European countries, and the price difference will stay below 5%. According to Chanel, this move is supposed to lesson the price gap and to hurt the procurement market. It is believed that the depreciation of Chanel’s products will lead to depreciation of the whole luxury industry. But ,Such policy, with no doubt, will trigger a wave of luxury appreciation for the frenzied procurement market in China. Another factor to the change is Substitution Effect. During the purchase of luxury products, Chinese consumers might consider replacing foreign luxuries with other products or the other way around due to the increase of nominal terms. Apparently, the increase of income has brought more opportunities to the luxury market. On the other hand, the devaluation of European and the appreciation of RMB jointly allow a demand for luxuries. The depreciation of a large number of international luxury brands has triggered a new trend of luxury consumption in China. In this case, the idea of fitting in highest circle of society by purchasing luxuries gradually becomes hollow and vulgar. Because of these objective reasons guide, It’s seems obvious Chinese consumers will eventually give up the idea of buying old luxury brands and look for high-end as well as unique luxuries in order to stand out. In today’s economy, there is a great opportunity for the local luxury brands to make up for what they have lost and to win a larger market.
41
项目机遇
商 业 模 式 通过经济周期的阶段划分考虑产品周期 在市场经济的条件下，本品牌经营模式充分考虑了经济形势，也就是 “经济大气候”的 变化。 在经济周期波动的扩张阶段，也就是当前中国经济环境下，是宏观经济环境和市场环境 日益活跃的季节。这时，市场需求旺盛，订货饱满，商品畅销，生产趋升，资金周转灵便。 本品牌经营状态处于较为宽松有利的外部环境中，选择了一个有利的销售市场。 经济周期波动的收缩阶段，正是但前欧洲经济环境状态，是宏观经济环境和市场环境日 趋紧缩的季节。虽然处于较恶劣的外部环境中，但是经济的衰退既有破坏作用，又有“自 动调节”作用。选择此时的欧洲作为产品研发及升级更新换代的工作地点。
数据来源：国家统计局
42
Project Opportunities
Project Structure Consider dividing the product cycle through phases of the economic cycle In the market economy, this brand management mode has fully considered the economic situation, which is the change of “economic climate”. In the fluctuating expanding phase in the economy cycle, where China’s case currently, macro-economy environment and market environment boom. During this period, there are high market demand, hot sales of products, mass production and quick turnover. This mode is in a loose and favorable external environment and has chosen an advantageous market. During the fluctuating contraction phase, where European economy is in, both macroeconomy environment and market environment shrink. In spite of the obstructive external environment, economic depression has both destructive force and “autoadjustment” function. It has chosen Europe to be the place for product development and upgrade.
Data source: National Bureau of Statistics
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design management | 设计管理
4
客户群划分
国民收入定义消费市场
根据中国国家统计局对于民众收入数据的统计显示，2004 年至 2013 年，城镇居民收入是 呈现一个正增长的趋势。 而奢侈品市场迅速发展主要依赖于快速增长的极富家庭与中产阶层的迅速增长，未来 5 年，极富家庭将推动奢侈品市场 38% 的增长。中产阶层目前占有 12% 的市场份额，而到 2015 年，预计有 7600 万家庭进入这个阶层，占奢侈品消费份额的 22%。奢侈品消费市场 在膨胀。
数据来源：国家统计局
46
Customers
National income definition of consumer market According to statistics on resident income from the National Bureau of Statistics of the People’s Republic of China, the income of urban and rural residents has been increasing from 2004 to 2013. The development of a luxury market mainly depends on the rapidly growing numbers of richest families and middle class. In the coming 5 years, the richest families are going to be account for 38% growth rate of the market. Currently, the middle class takes up 12% market share; yet, another 76 million families are expected to join the group, taking up 22% market share by 2015. The luxury market is still expanding.
Data source: National Bureau of Statistics
47
客户群划分
城市化进程对消费市场的影响 快速的城市化进程使得中国的奢侈品消费市场和群体不断扩大。虽然在未来五年，北京 和上海仍然会保持市场中心地位，但是二三线城市的市场增速可能会更快。中国 36 个大 城市（包括 2 座特大城市，9 座大型城市，25 座发达城市）将贡献到 2015 年奢侈品市场 增长的 74%，占据 76% 的市场份额。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
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Customers
The impact of urbanization on the consumer market Rapid urbanization progress has constantly expanded Chinese luxury consumption market and groups. Although in the coming five years, Beijing and Shanghai will remain as central markets, the market growth in second-tier and third-tier cities will be faster. 36 big cities of China (including 2 megacities, 9 large cities and 25 developed cities) will contribute to 74% growth of the luxury market in 2015, accounting for 76% of market shares.
Data source: McKinsey Greater China
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客户群划分
消费心理定义阶层 麦肯锡根据消费者收入水平以及奢侈品消费额，把奢侈品消费者分为四类。其中值得注 意的是中产阶层的消费能力，他们占据了奢侈品消费者数量的 51%，这个数字将进一步 在 2015 年上升到 61%。他们对于奢侈品消费的态度是：享受奢侈品后会减少其他开支， 以求不超出总预算。他们通过享受奢侈品，来满足融入更高级社交圈子的渴望，希望在 人群中脱颖而出。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
50
Customers
Consumer psychology definition of class McKinsey & Co divided luxury consumers into four categories according to consumers’ income level and luxury consumption sum. What’s worth noting is the consumption ability of the middle class which occupies for 51% of total luxury consumers. The number will further increase to 61% in 2015. Their attitude towards luxury is that luxuries will reduce other expenditures of theirs and they try to stay in budget. They intend to fit in more advanced social network and stand out by enjoying luxuries.
Data source: McKinsey Greater China
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客户群划分
定 义 客 户 群 “过渡型城市”的奢侈品市场空间最大 近日时尚传媒集团进行了一项关于国内城市时尚消费的调查，结果显示，诸如南京、天 津这样的“过渡型城市”最为亮眼，其时尚消费力超过了北京，上海这样的“一线城市”。 “过渡型城市”的人均时尚消费增速超过了收入增长的速度，是典型的“超前型消费”群体， 奢侈品市场在这些地方的深耕空间亦最多。而中国消费者在购买奢侈品时的支出水平不 完全决定于其收入，而是与个人的“品味”有关。本项目通过第一阶段在“一线城市” 打开的知名度后，第二阶段直接发展二三线城市。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
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Customers
Customers “Transitional cities” the largest luxury market space Recently the Fashion Media Group conducted a survey on the fashion consumption of Chinese cities. The results show that “transitional cities” like Nanjing and Tianjin are most appealing because their fashion consumption ability exceeds such “first-tier cities” as Beijing and Shanghai. The per capita fashion consumption growth of “transitional cities” surpasses the income growth. They are typical “premature consumption” groups and there’s greater development space for the luxury market. The expenditure of Chinese consumers in luxuries is not completely determined by their income; instead, it’s related with individual “taste”. The project will directly develop second-tier and third-tier cities at the second sage after building reputation in “first-tier” cities at the first stage.
In addition to the "core luxury buyers," there are three luxury consumer groups is the rise of China The average annual consumption of luxury goods
Luxury consumption model
Fashion fans Core luxury buyers
Middle class
Total household income ratio of luxury consumption
Data source: McKinsey Greater China
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客户群划分
定 义 客 户 群 中产阶级的消费 麦肯锡认为，中国上层中产阶级消费者花在休闲活动和旅游上的时间明显更多。对他们 而言，产品在情感和社交方面的卖点正日趋重要。而这一系列的心理变化，正好迎合了 奢侈品市场的定位。 中产阶级的品味与消费观已经有了长足进步，在消费名牌服饰鞋包时，不再一味在乎品 牌知名度和识别度，风格、设计、材质等成为他们选择的因素，购买大牌单品会考虑“不 会显得暴发”和“能够彰显品位”。 随着品味的提升以及消费观念的日渐成熟，中产阶 级的消费趋于理性，开始追求思考产品个性化。本项目对中国文化元素的诠释方式，迎 合了中产阶级消费者趋于“小众品牌”个性化的消费心理。 中国奢侈品消费人群年龄层 中国奢侈品消费者平均年龄 25~35 岁，热衷小富即奢。 越来越多的年轻人追随主流趋势心理，促使中国奢侈品消费者日趋年轻化。本项目通过 调查报告主要人群定位的产品，完全迎合这一群体的消费心理。
数据来源：麦肯锡中国视角
54
Customers
Customers Middle-class consumption According to McKinsey & Co, China’s middle-class consumers obviously spend more time in leisure activities and tourism. The emotional and social selling points of products are getting more and more important for them. The psychological changes happen to meet with the orientation of the luxury market. Substantial progress has been made in the taste and consumption concept of the middle class. While buying brand apparel, shoes and bags, they no longer focus on brand awareness and reputation only. Factors such as style, design and material influence their choices. They will consider whether “it will make them look like an upstart or not” and “whether it can demonstrate their taste or not” while buying a single item of a big brand. With enhanced taste and gradual maturity of their consumption concept, the middle class is more rational in consumption and start pursuing personalized products. The interpretation of Chinese cultural elements in the project panders to the personalized “niche brand” consumption psychology of the middle-class consumers. Chinese luxury consumer population ages The average age of Chinese luxury consumers is 25 to 35 years old. They believe in luxury with small wealth. More and more young people pursue mainstream trends and gradually become the main force of Chinese luxury consumption. The project is completely consistent with the consumption psychology of the group with analysis of the demand of the major group in the survey report.
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design management | 设计管理
5
竞争优势
核 心 竞 争 力 多年来，为中国设计找到国际化发展的路径，将“中国制造”转型成为“中国品牌”， 从而走向国际市场与国际品牌同台竞争，始终是中国人的期待。成功的品牌需要同时满 足人们对梦想、情感的需求。强有力的产品，需要通过完美契合的背景故事、可靠的合 作伙伴关系、合适的营销方式来引发人们的情感共鸣和品牌忠诚。 本项目正是致力于打造“中国品牌”，通过瑞士品质保证结合中国传统文化传承的信念， 改变消费者对“中国”标签的狭隘理解。 马赛商学院 MBA 与 EM-BA 课程部主任 Michel Gutsatz 教授认为，中国要打造顶级品牌， 应具备专业的品牌管理能力和技能，其中包括保持品牌一致性、依据品牌定位设定品牌 价格的能力和共享国际商业文化的能力。中国品牌可以尝试通过与欧洲品牌和专家合作， 以购买专业知识和技能、聘用人才和努力学习为途径来提高和掌握品牌管理能力。 本项目全部研发工作在瑞士，研发者在瑞士学习设计管理专业，在欧洲设计思考及项目 管理教授专业指导下为本项目做最合理的产品品牌定位以及商业策划。本项目的产品不 仅有传统的中国文化传承，并结合了中国最新的高科技陶瓷工艺研发技术。在产品设计 和材料技术上也与国际接轨。
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Competitive
Competitiveness For many years, it’s been the expectation of Chinese people to find out an internationalized development path for Chinese design, transform “made in China” to “Chinese brand”, and make it compete with international brands on the same international stage. A successful brand needs to satisfy people’s demands for dreams and emotions. Powerful product brands need to build people’s emotional resonance and brand loyalty through perfect background stories, reliable partner relationship and appropriate ways of marketing. The project is committed to building a “Chinese brand” and changing consumers’ narrow understanding of “China” via Swiss quality guarantee and traditional Chinese cultural inheritance. Professor Michel Gutsatz, MBA and EM-BA course director in Euromed Marseille Ecole de Management, stated that China needs to possess professional brand management abilities and skills to build a top brand, including abilities of maintaining brand consistency and pricing brands according to brand orientation as well as sharing international business culture. Chinese brands can try improving their brand management abilities by cooperating with European brands and experts, purchasing professional knowledge and skills, hiring talents and learning new things. All research and development work of the project is done in Switzerland. The developer studies management in Switzerland and works out the most reasonable product brand orientation and business proposal with the professional instruction of project management professors. The product in the project not only carries traditional Chinese culture but also integrates China’s latest high-tech chinaware research & development technologies. Besides, it’s geared to international standards in both product design and material technology.
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竞争优势
人 力 资 源 项目主要研发者：胡馨卉，在中国上海拥有 3 年智能建筑设计工作经验，2 年建筑方案概 念设计工作经验，5 年小型电子商务营销工作经验。在瑞士巴塞尔 2 年 , 攻读设计管理专 业的硕士学位。美国 pmp 项目管理专业人员资格认证和英国 Prince 2 项目风险管理专业 人员资格认证。 合作设计师：辛遥遥，2008-2010 年作品先后获得德国产品设计 Red dot 和 IF 设计奖。 她的极薄陶瓷工艺被邀请参加 2014 年米兰沙龙设计展。 合作设计师：Tara Ko 毕业于香港理工大学平面设计学士课程，曾任职于多件 4AS 广告 公司的美术总监。与 Polly Lay 在 2004 年成立 EEscafe Studio, 主力平面及广告设计。 Escafe 是创意空间多余工作室，也是和朋友及其他设计师成员分享设计理念和生活态度 的地方。 2001 年 Tara 于意大利米兰的 Domus Academy 就读 The Master Class in Accessories 后， 结合意念 美感，艺术的创作想法，于 2008 年开始创作首饰系列，名为 Bittergrain. Bittergrain 是 Tars 自行发挥创意的首饰品牌。她的每一个设计都来自工作空档时的想 法。用一种创作的形式舒缓自己的创意灵感，Tara 很享受新手制作的过程，这样能帮助 消化和解除不少在做广告和平面设计时候的压力。
项目专业指导教授：Armin Blasbichler , Oliver MacConnell
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Competitive
Human Resources R&D: Hu Xinhui 3 years working experience in IT&MMT Building Design, in Shanghai China 2 years working experience in Conceptual design of Building, in Shanghai China 5 years working experience in a small e-commerce marketing, Global 2 years studying of design management , Master's degree, in Basel Switzerland 4 years studying of Environmental Design, Bachelor's degree, in Wuhan China Acquired the Project Management Professional (PMP)® Professional qualification at 2013 Acquired the PRINCE2 APMG-International Professional qualification at 2012 Co-designer：XIN Yaoyao A young Chinese designer who successively gained German product design Red dot and IF Design Award from 2008 to 2010 her extremely thin ceramics technology ,the product was exhibited at the Milan salon design show in 2014. Co-designer：Tara Ko Graduated from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University where she majored in Graphic Design.in 2004 she set up her own design studio - ESCAFE along with her partner Polly Lay.the ESCAFE studio works both in graphic materials that are simple and interesting, creating something wearable and stylish that also has an intrinsic and meaningful interpretation. Mentor: Armin Blasbichler is an architect, artist, educator and the principal of the eponymous Studio based in Bressanone/Brixen, Italy. He mastered in architecture at the University of Innsbruck and graduated with an MA in Design from the Chelsea College of Arts, UAL London. Along to his practice he holds a professorship at the Institute of Integrative Design | Masterstudio, Academy of Art and Design FHNW, Basel, Switzerland. Mentor: Oliver MacConnellas as a sparring partner and guide to the alliance of creative design and implementation. Design feasibility in commercial systems has been a focus of professional work for over 25 years. As a fashion designer, he know the demands of target group-oriented design concepts; as a management expert, He see the need for corporate control. His work in various management positions has taught him how to profitably synchronise creative and economic interests.
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design management | 设计管理
6
竞争环境
竞争对手及竞争类型 面对中国本土奢侈品品牌的知名度竞争，本土品牌中的奢侈品新势力 法蓝瓷：作为中国奢侈品牌商业案例编入教材 法蓝瓷是台商陈立恒于 2001 年创立的瓷器品牌，融东方文化底蕴与现代艺术创意 于一体，它是中国目前唯一在世界上 “叫得响”的瓷器品牌，在全球 56 个国家销售， 哈佛管理学院已经将 “法蓝瓷”作为中国奢侈品牌商业案例编入教材。 和其他几个品牌相比，法蓝瓷在国内的销售相对还算成功。此品牌用西方人习惯 的方式讲述中国传统故事，比如法蓝瓷的爱丽丝茶壶，远看非常中国风，但拿在 手上把玩时可以发现，配色、花纹和图案都与迪士尼元素和精神一脉相承；还有 名为 “福海腾达”的瓷器，一听名字就知道图案设计非常中国化，但制作方却选 择了法国三大顶级陶瓷工厂，采用西化工艺生产，其中柏图负责白玉瓷器、昆庭 负责银器刀叉、巴拉克则完成水晶杯，这样瓷器给人的视觉感完全不同了。 竞争类型：同样采用与西方合作的产品经营方式。
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The Competition
Competitors and type of competition New forces of local luxury brands in face of awareness competition of Chinese local luxury brands Franz: being included in the textbook as a Chinese luxury brand business case Franz is a chinaware brand founded by the Taiwan businessman Francis CHEN in 2001. It integrates oriental cultural connotations and modern artistic creativity. It’s the only chinaware brand of China that has a reputation in the world. It’s sold in 56 countries of the world. School of Management of Harvard University has included “Franz” as a Chinese luxury brand business case in the textbook. Compared with several other brands, Franz’s sales in China is quite successful. The brand tells traditional Chinese stories in the way western people are used to. Take Alice teapot of Franz for example. When being looked afar, it’s of great Chinese style. However, when we hold it in hand, we can find that the color, stripe and pattern share the same strain with Disney elements and spirit; there’s another example, “Rising Fortune” chinaware. By hearing the name itself, we know its pattern design is typical Chinese but its production is completed by three top ceramics factories of France. Western technology is applied. Pato is in charge of white jade chinaware and Christofle takes charge of silverware knives and forks while Ballack is in charge of crystal cups. In this way, the chinaware presents completely different visual feelings to people. Type of competition: the same production operation mode of cooperating with the west.
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竞争环境
竞争对手及竞争类型 昭仪珠宝：失传已久镶嵌工艺再挖掘 秉承工匠主义精神，做中国人自己的世界珠宝品牌。近几年，国内已开始有企业严格运 用奢侈品牌的管理理念创建本土的奢侈品牌，昭仪翠屋就立足中国传统价值观和传统工 艺，把失传已久的掐丝镶嵌工艺恢复并挖掘出来，同时融入现代化的创新，开发出一系 列深受市场欢迎的珠宝产品。 竞争类型：同样运用中国传统元素与工艺。 Qeelin：把首家店铺开进巴黎 虽然是一家地道的中国企业，Qeelin 设计师陈瑞麟却选择将品牌的第一家店铺开在巴黎。 店面的装修风格充满了佛教‘禅’的感觉，装首饰的盒子也很有中国特色，同时开了很 多 Party，邀请名人出席。慢慢地，法国人开始接受这个从中国来的‘孩子’，Qeelin 的饰品也渐渐受到了法国上流人士的追捧。”2004 年 12 月，Qeelin 在香港中环国际金 融中心开设了继巴黎专卖店之后的第二家店，也象征着这个品牌进军亚洲市场的决心。。 竞争类型：同样以外国品牌入主中国消费者内心。 上海滩：洋人眼里的中国旗袍模样 1994 年，香港慈善家邓肇坚之孙邓永锵，以上世纪 30 年代上海衣着设计为蓝本，在香 港中环毕打街开设了首间“上海滩”中装店。短短十余年， “上海滩”已经在全球开设 39 家门面。 “上海滩”深受老外喜欢，其原因就是品牌中浓浓的“中国风”。与国内众多品牌争相“西化” 不同，上海滩主打中式的旗袍和唐装，并且热衷于细节处采用中国传统文化符号和意象。 1995 年邓永锵把大部份“上海滩”股权以 1 亿 200 万港元出售予南非 Rembrandt 集团， 只担任董事。现在“上海滩”品牌的母公司是瑞士知名的 Richemont 集团。 竞争类型：拥有相同的瑞士背景。
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The Competition
Competitors and type of competition Zhaoyi Jewelry: re-exploring the inlay craft which has long been lost With the spirit of the craftsmen, it aims to build a world jewelry brand which belongs to Chinese people. In recent years, some enterprises have started building local luxury brands strictly according to the management philosophy of luxury brands. Zhaoyi, with a foothold in traditional Chinese values and crafts, has restored and explored the longlost wire inlaying craft, and meanwhile incorporates modern innovation to develop a series of jewelry products which are well received on the market. Type of competition: the same application of traditional Chinese elements and crafts. Qeelin: opening its first store in Paris Although it’s a genuine Chinese enterprise, Qeelin’s designer Dennis CHAN chose to have its first store in Paris. The decoration style of the store is permeated with the Buddhist “Zen” feelings and the jewelry box is of great Chinese characteristics. Many parties have been held with celebrities invited. Slowly French people start accepting the “kid” from China and Qeelin’s accessories have gotten popular among the upper class of France. In December, 2004, Qeelin opened its second store in Hong Kong Central International Finance Center after its outlet in Paris, which symbolized the brand’s determination to march towards Asian market. Type of competition: winning Chinese consumers as a foreign brand. Shanghai Tang: Chinese cheongsam in the eyes of foreigners In 1994, Sir David Tang, the grandson of Sir Shiu-kin Tang, a Hong Kong philanthropist, opened the first “Shanghai Tang” traditional Chinese clothing store in Hong Kong Central with Shanghai apparel designs in the 1930s as the blueprint. “Shanghai Tang” has opened 39 stores in the world in as short as ten years. “Shanghai Tang” is deeply loved by foreigners because of its dense “Chinese style”. Different from many Chinese brands which strive to “westernize”, Shanghai Tang features in Chinese-style cheongsam and Tang suit and is keen on putting traditional Chinese cultural symbols and images in details of their products. In 1995, Sir David Tang sold the majority of Shanghai Tang’s equity to South African Rembrandt Group at the price of HKD 102 million and only served as a director. Now the parent company of “Shanghai Tang” is the well-known Richemont Group of Switzerland. Type of competition: same Switzerland background.
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竞争环境
竞争对手的优势和劣势 优势 法蓝瓷：已经有成熟的品牌商业管理模式，并且在全球也有了稳定的市场知名度和占有率， 与西方的设计结合度高。 昭仪珠宝：挖掘中国传统价值观和传统工艺，并融入现代化的创新。 Qeelin：受到了国外上流人士的追捧，起到了很好的引领作用，奠定了稳定的奢侈品地位。 上海滩：有强大的商业集体背景支持。
劣势 法蓝瓷：在设计元素及生产工艺上过分依赖西方，会脱离对中国文化底蕴的意义。运用 浮于皮表的结合拼凑，没有从更深层次意义去考虑发展产品及推广中国的元素。 昭仪珠宝：单纯专研挖掘传统工艺，在时尚设计上却没有更好的提升，没有摆脱“中国土”。 Qeelin：品牌定位则为取悦外国消费者，哗众取宠于西方上流的姿态。从一开始上市就 变相地贬低了中国消费者的品味及时尚认知。在不尊重中国本土消费者的基础上，即使 运用中国元素，也不是一个值得推崇的品牌，严重丢失了“品牌道德”。 上海滩：品牌积淀有待时间考验，急于求成的心态，不能创立一个好的品牌。而“上海滩” 的经营模式从一开始就已经出卖了灵魂。即使如今依靠强大的集团背景支持，但是早早 丢失的文化积淀和匆匆浮于表面的商业野心，已完全不能成就一个长远的奢侈品品牌定 位。 企业还是应该从自身找问题。多年来，中国制造给世界留下的“廉价”印象太深，中国 企业应该努力提高中国制造和中国品牌的声誉。
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The Competition
Competitors' Superiority and Disadvantage Superiority Franz: already a mature brand business management, and has also been stable in the global market visibility and market share, high design combined with the West. ZhaoYi Jewelry: Mining Chinese traditional values and traditional crafts, and into modern and innovative. Qeelin: sought after by foreign upper class people, played a good leading role, laid a stable of luxury status. Shanghai Tang:there is a strong business group backing. Disadvantage Franz: It depends too much on the west in terms of design elements and production crafts, and breaks away from the significance of Chinese cultural connotations. It only lingers at superficial combination and fails to consider development products and promote Chinese elements at a deeper level. Zhaoyi Jewelry: It purely explores traditional crafts and fails to improve its fashion design, thus not getting rid of its “Chinese soil”. Qeelin: Its brand orientation is to please foreign consumers and the upper class of the western world. It indirectly played down the taste and fashion cognition of Chinese consumers at the very beginning when it’s launched. Even if it applies Chinese elements, it’s still not a brand worth advocating because it doesn’t show respect for Chinese local consumers and loses its “brand morality”. Shanghai Tang: Brand accumulation is to be tested by time. A good brand cannot be established with rush for quick results. The operation mode of “Shanghai Tang” betrayed it soul at the beginning. Even if it’s supported by a powerful group, it can no longer build a long-term luxury brand orientation for it lost its cultural accumulation and business ambition long time ago.
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design management | 设计管理
7
价值 & 影响
价 值 & 影 响 在中国的古代有很多优秀的艺术设计，如今也有很多世界文化遗产，然而因为商业社会 的驱使，越来越多地失去创作和设计的环境。中国人越来越多追逐国外奢侈品设计，而 我也发现，中国的古设计反倒被国际朋友所喜爱。 看到国外的设计对中国的影响越来越大。被越来越多优秀的外来文化覆盖，中国本来拥 有的文化被不断弱化。中国有自己的文化，更有一个世界上最广阔和繁华的市场。 我想通过现代设计语言的必要手段来传播中国古代优秀的文化传统，并运用现代的设计 和管理方法来进行设计。让更多的中国人认识到，我们也有从自身文化发展出来的优秀 作品。不靠炒作，不是噱头，而是真正深入内心的文化认知。 让中国的传统元素和欧洲的设计背景完美结合，新产品不但具有中国血统，也有着现代 时尚的诠释方式。之后把新产品放在中国市场上销售，获得客户的采购心理。 我希望能通过这个方式，让更多的中国人看到当代的中国产品。当中国客户把视线从外 国商品转移到中国商品上来，开始购买和体验中国产品同样具有的好功能，并且意识到 具有中国元素的中国商品的个性之处，开始信任中国产品。他们如果有这样的心理变化， 我的这个项目就成功了。 我希望我能很好的诠释出中国元素在当代的发展，我希望我所做的这个项目，至少能够 影响到一部分的中国人对中国产品的认可。 中国有句古话：攘外必先安内。在对中国文化的传播上，我们不应该一味地只知道把他 往外国推广。任何一种文化都需要跟随时代一起发展，这样才会不但有传承还有发展， 而不是成为一种过时的元素束之高台。在我们传扬中国传统文化的时候，应该先诠释好 当代的意义，应该让自己先认识他了解他，然后再传播出去。 中国还有另外一句古话：己所不欲，勿施于人。把一件东西做到自己也认为好了，再去 送给别人。如果自己都不喜欢，怎样能让别人也喜欢呢？这是对自己也是对别人的尊重。
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Value & Implications
Value & Implications There were many excellent art designs in ancient China, and there are also a lot of world cultur-al heritages nowadays, but they are increasingly deprived of the very environment for creation and design due to the drive of commercial society. As more and more Chinese people go after foreign luxury design, some foreigners are attracted by ancient Chinese artistic designs instead. I find that foreign designs are exerting an increasingly bigger impact on traditional Chinese culture, which is overshadowed by more and more exotic cultures and thus is constantly wea-kened. I would like to essential to spread excellent de- signs in ancient China by means of modern design language and to carry out design culture by using modern design and manage- ment methods. As to those high-quality works, it is about a kind of cultural awareness deep into heart depending on neither speculation nor stunts. It is to combine traditional Chinese elements with European designing background in a perfect way to inject into the new product both Chinese features and modern and stylish interpretati-on. Later, the new product will be sold on Chinese market to gain customers’ recognition for future purchases. It is my hope that more Chinese can have experience of contemporary Chinese products in this way. My project will be successful if the Chinese customers have shifted their attention from foreign goods to Chinese commodities by purchasing and experiencing similar good functions of Chinese commodities and have begun to trust in Chinese goods with certain understanding of their particu- lar characteristics. It is hoped that I can interpret contemporary development of Chinese elements in a good way, and that my project will lead to recognition of Chinese products by at least some of Chinese people. As an old Chinese saying goes, “To resist foreign aggression, there must be internal stability.” It is not a good practice to simply promote Chinese culture to foreign nations. Any kind of culture has to be developed along with changes of times, so that the culture can be inherited and developed rather than being shelved as an outdated element. While carrying forward traditional Chinese culture, it is essential for us to interpret its significance in contemporary era by knowing and understanding it first before promoting it to outside world. There is another old saying in China, “Do not do to others what you do not want done to yourself.” Anything, before be given to others, has to be perfected to your own satisfaction. How to win others’ favor of something if you yourself do not like it at all? It is respect to others and also to yourself.
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design management | 设计管理
[China / 中 ] Hu Xinhui | 胡馨卉
design management | 设计管理
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