With love from Elounda

TRAVEL

with love from Crete

elounda

words and photography by Jenny Kakoudakis

Crete, Greece's largest island, is nestled south of the mainland between the Aegean and Libyan sea. It enjoys a beautiful weather all year long and with a flight time of under 4 hours from London it is a popular destination for families and couples alike.

The island is steeped with history, being home to the Minoan civilisation.

As the tale goes, King Minos who ruled over Crete, threatened to attack Athens with his navy. The Athenian King Aegeas cut a deal with him: every 9 years the Athenians would send 7 boys and 7 girls to be sacrificed in Crete, eaten by the dreadful half-human, half-bull monster known as the Minotaur, who lived in a maze under the Minoss Palace. But Theseus, the son of Aegeas, took action. He asked his father to travel to Crete as one of the 7 boys to be offered to the Minotaur. He would kill the beast and while sailing back to Athens, he would use a white sail (instead of the mourning black) to indicate his triumph.

When he arrived to Crete, Minos' daughter Ariadne fell in love with him and offered to help out. She gave Theseus a thread to help him find his way out of the maze (the Labyrinth) once he killed the beast.

Theseus did kill the Minotaur, saved the youth and sailed back to Athens, taking Ariadne with him. But he forgot to change the colour of the sail. His father, seeing the black sail on the ship and thinking his son was dead, fell off a cliff into the sea that took his name - Aegean sea.

“The beautiful island of Crete was once home to the Minoan civilisation.”

Just over an hour from Heraklion, the capital of Crete, driving along the north coast, you will find the seaside village of Elounda. Once a picturesque fishing village in the Mirabello Bay, Elounda is nowadays a celebrity spotting destination, with many 5 star hotels and a relaxed, families and couples oriented character. Most hotels here have their own private beaches, but make sure you choose one that is right on the sea front (a few hotels closer to the island of Spinalonga and the village of Plaka are built on the hill over the main road which you have to cross to get to the beach).

The great thing about Elounda is that it is not isolated in the way that most southern Crete towns are, nor is it too vibrant like Hersonissos and Malia. During the day, walk into the village or drive to nearby Plaka, where you can find the ferries that take you to the island of Spinalonga.

For decades Spinalonga was a leper colony that became home to the 'living -dead'. Read the book "The Island" by Victoria Hislop, who describes a story of love that takes places around this island and describes the drama of having to head to the island, leaving behind loved ones. So close, yet so far. The ghost village on Spinalonga is a site of tours nowadays, with up to 2,000 tourist visiting daily, yet you can often walk around it not seeing but a few more tourists in close proximity to you.

Alternatively, drive to the port of Agios Nikolaos for shopping therapy (we much prefer it in the evening when it is cooler).

The Yachting Suite, Elounda Beachstay

Elounda Beach & Elounda Bay

Elounda Beach (Leading Hotels of the World) is an idyllic 5 star resort on the sea front, on grounds that it shares with its sister resort Elounda Bay. A popular hotel for families, it features small sandy beaches, seaside restaurants, immaculate gardens and top quality food. Families can take advantage of the free kids club which runs swimming and tennis lessons as well as shows in the afternoon.

Both hotels offer standard size rooms on their main buildings (choose between sea or mountain view) as well as a number of bungalow suites throughout the grounds. If you feel like splurging, one of the executive hillside suites with private pool or the seafront Yachting suites (with infinity pools, private entrance, sunken bathtubs and butler service) prove that Elounda Beach is a versatile hotel that caters for all tastes and pockets.

Sail around Mirabello Bay (daily departures from Agios Nikolaos Port). Trips to Spinalonga island are not to be missed (half hourly departures from the village of Plaka).

Drive to the mountain village of Kritsa and shop for local soft furnishings and rugs (Sat nav postcode: 720 51). In the evening, head to Agios Nikolaos. The shops are open till late.

Shop finds in Plaka

Ruins on Spinalonga island

Taverna Ferryman (Akti Olountos, Schisma Elountas), is family owned and the shooting location for the TV series «Who Pays the Ferryman». Away from the traffic, it benefits from uninterrupted sea views.

Kanali restaurant has a simple decor and menu but you are guaranteed fresh fish and a very friendly service.

After you come back from your trip to Spinalonga, walk to Giovanni's for lunch but remember to check availability in advance and book as needed, this restaurant is really popular.

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