Tse Kao

interview by Pauline de Villiers Brettell and photography by Tse Kao

The work of photographer Tse Kao first came onto my radar when doing some research for an article on Biophilic Design. Wanting to develop this concept beyond the realm of interiors to discover how it translates into fashion and other disciplines, his BLENDSCAPES images stood out and captured my attention and my imagination, both as a point of reference, but also as creative works of art in their own right. I chatted to Tse about his creative journey, the process of collaboration and, in fact, how he found his way from surgical assistant, to musician, to photographer… In the conversation, it soon became clear that this was a life journey and photography has been as much a part of this process as has the spiritual journey which he has been on. This spirituality does, I feel, see itself being expressed in Tse’s images, even when that photography is for essentially a commercial campaign. Looking at the images in the Blendscape or Social Stories series, there is an engagement with the subject that does speak of the photographer, and to the viewer. Better expressed in his own words…

“I was determined to live my greatest passion at that time, photography. However, that did not happen overnight. I had to grab a lot of sand, but everything fell into place in the end. I learnt that by going down deep, I started to revalue my life. I was under enormous financial stress and anxiety, but that was precisely what made me appreciate more what life was really about. As clichéd as it may be, it was all about the little things that really mattered. I enjoyed the birds that woke me up in the morning, new friendships and working relationships and the synchronicity that filled my life more and more.”

This path has clearly been a mindful and a convoluted one for Tse, punctuated by contemplation and personal growth, and he now finds himself at a point in this journey where he can reflect and express himself creatively and spiritually through his work.

“That synchronicity has led to me now living a dream life… if you want to label it (which is not important, but for the context of this story); as a photographer, studio manager, teacher and healer… although it is no longer a dream but a self-manifested reality. I am very grateful for the opportunities that I have had in recent years, the inner lessons and life lessons. Where the river has taken me and I fully enjoy the flowers that have been given to me.”

Shifting from the philosophical and into the photography, if those two subjects can be separated, your BLENDSCAPES work was my first point of reference for you - so let’s start there. The photographs in combination with the garments were exhibited on the island where they were shot in 2016. The series was picked up by the online community and went viral. The story was covered by magazines and blogs from Russia to Indonesia to The United States. Can you tell us a little more about this project and the story behind it?

‘BLENDSCAPES’ was created as part of Wad & Design Symposium on the island Schiermonnikoog, in the northern part of The Netherlands. It is a collaboration with a fashion designer, Elsien Gringhuis. The designs of the garments are an abstraction of the landscapes of Schiermonnikoog. Elsien Gringhuis incorporated photographs of the island landscapes into the garments as prints. By photographing the garments in the exact same landscapes, we created ‘BLENDSCAPES’.

As Elsien said: "Despite the number of visitors there you barely feel that there are other people on the island than you. You can move around without meeting anyone and thus disappear into the landscape. That feeling was the reason for a series of five outfits where you can literally blend into the landscape.”

Due to the many apparent coincidences, I increasingly experienced that I had landed on the right path. I could play freely in life's playground, and the more I played and let go of my built-up frames, the more it brought me.

You are the in-house photographer for the sustainable fashion label Elsien Gringhuis - which you mentioned previously in relation to the BLENDSCAPE project. Could you tell us a little more about the process of collaboration and how it works for you? What makes a successful collaboration between a brand and a photographer?

In the case of Studio Elsien Gringhuis, from our first collaboration everything came together. We discussed a concept for the first shoot and searched for inspiration online. We actually came up with the same images, which showed that we were very much on the same page.

I met Elsien when I just started my career as a fashion photographer and she gave me the chance to grow and experiment as a photographer. Since Elsien is an inspirational designer and very specific about what she wants to see, this was a challenge but it was mostly inspiring to expand my creative skills as a photographer.

Staying on the subject of collaboration, can you expand on how you approach collaborations and the process when creative minds come together? How do you come up with a concept and the story?

When collaborating with others I either take the concept or initial idea of the client as a starting point or work on it together with my client. In some cases, a client comes up with a fully thought out concept to work with.

In general, most of my inspiration for concepts comes from other inspiring artists, from nature, the city or even (sun)light can be the pacemaker for a photograph. I like to create stories. Every photograph has to tell a story in some way. Even a ‘dull’ e-com shot of a garment has to be as storytelling as a well thought out concept. It’s the story of the product in that case.

Another thread that seems to run through your work is that of sustainability – can you talk a little more about this and how it impacts your work?

Over the last decade, sustainability has become more and more important in my life and my view of the world. I’m trying to live my life as sustainable as possible since a better world starts with yourself. This is being expressed by maintaining sustainable habits, from being a vegetarian to only buying organic (preferably) locally produced food. I try to buy as consciously as possible when it comes to clothing or other products. I try not to buy anything if I don’t need it. Buy less, choose well. Consumerism has become the standard and it makes me sad to see the lack of awareness among the majority of the people.

In my work, I am trying to incorporate my sustainable lifestyle by supporting sustainable brands. Together we’re stronger and can spread awareness.

You also offer photography workshops – from beginner photography through to more esoteric workshops where you talk about photography as a tool for meditation. Can you tell us more about the workshops you offer?

A big aspect of my life is the fact that I love to teach. Since I became independent, I have taught everything I do, all my experiences and know-how from music to event production and photography. The esoteric aspect of teaching has developed in the past few years, we are living in a world where most people have forgotten what it is to be human. To live consciously, in harmony with nature, our true (higher) self and with each other. From my perspective and lifestyle and half a lifetime full of experiences and life lessons, I decided I’d like to help others on their path of enlightenment.

After moving to a new home a few years ago, in the middle of the forest with likeminded (spiritual) people like my neighbours, I was inspired to contribute in my way to a new world, the new dimension that we are shifting to. I do Pranic Healings, teach Tai Chi, developed awareness photography workshops and founded Tao of Chi as the basis for the lightwork I do.

In the workshop on intuitive photography (photography as a meditation tool) I try to give people the experience to see the world as they did when they were children. Amazed, unfiltered and free of labels or judgement. By being in the now, the present moment you can re-connect with yourself and with your environment, experience the visual appeal, connect with what you see and capture it as an image. One with yourself, connected with your environment, from the eye and heart, in the now, in your artistic power

And in conclusion, a few quickfire questions:

Q: Your favourite (inspirational) photographer?

A: There are so many, but if I can only pick one, I choose Franceska Woodman

Q: Your personal favourite of all your images?

A: There isn’t any. First of all, there are too many… If I have a favourite one day, it changes the next and second I’m never satisfied with my work…

Q: If and when we can travel, which will be your first place to visit?

A: Of all the places I’ve travelled to Norway is my favourite destination. However, the Wudang Mountains in China are on top of my bucket list.

Q: Do you have a brand you would love to work with?

A: I don’t have a favourite brand. It’s the people behind a brand that are most important, inspiring and worth working with. A brand itself doesn’t mean anything. E

How purposeful design, timeless style and uncompromising quality contribute to keeping traditional craftsmanship alive

Founded in 2019, Grace Han is a luxury leather and accessory brand defined by its focus on exceptional craftsmanship, offering the perfect balance of timeless style, uncompromising quality and purposeful design. Dedication, authenticity and harmony within life's conflicting forces were elements that rung true for the founder, a Taiwanese born British designer Grace Han, when she set out to build her company, and have since remained the three key elements of her brand. With its roots in both London and Taipei, Grace Han is a brand that combines values from both the East and the West. The brand reflects softness and strength, emotion and logic, tradition and innovation. Here we spoke with Grace about her mission to keep traditional craftsmanship alive and her legacy.

Can you tell us how Grace Han, the brand, came about?

I grew up studying painting and calligraphy in my mother’s atelier. These childhood memories have been with me even after I grew up. After graduating from university, I went to work in a leather workshop and started creating. When embarking on the journey of creating the Grace Han brand, I personally selected every material, found the best Italian leather, drew each pattern by hand, and finally created the three representative collections - Ballet Lesson, Love Letter and Butterfly. In the end, I returned to the city where my parents studied and fell in love when they were young - London and opened my first store. This city is full of meaning to me. It is not only full of my childhood memories but also very inspiring to my creations. London is my place of unlimited inspiration.

Superior craftsmanship is very important to you. Can you take us through the process of creating your handbags?

When creating a new handbag, I will design my new work in the sample chamber and discuss the outline, leather and details of the bag with two of my professional craftswomen. For me, the most important design pays attention to the smallest detail. We tried several different types of leather to find the perfect material that matches the bag design. Take the creation of pleats as an example, these pleats have a further significance in that every fold signifies a chapter of our lives and thus carrying the Ballet Lesson is like treasuring your life events. I developed the technique for the pleated panels in my studio and such was the expertise required that I have only found one workshop in Taiwan able to replicate my standard of finish. Each pleated panel featured on our iconic Ballet Lesson handbag takes over 24 hours to make, after which our craftswomen will invest a minimum of 12 hours to assemble the bag. The pleat itself is lambskin, which is very soft and delicate, so it has become quite a challenge when we were ironing the folds. The temperature has to be carefully monitored and recorded precisely when executing each creation.

Your signature design “Ballet Lesson" has an interesting story behind it. Tell us more. The Ballet Lesson collection is a representation of Grace Han's artistry and craftsmanship and is a metaphor for my personal growth as a designer but also for anyone who has ever dedicated themselves completely to building their dream.

How would you describe your Grace Han customer?

I think most women have experienced a lot of struggle between external values and internal self during the process of growing up, and what I admire most is the women who have achieved a balance between self-achievement and life after going through contradictions and conflicts, while pursuing after their own definition of success in life. I think such a person can become a customer who understands my design philosophy - exquisite, soft with rigidity and calm.

What is your vision for the Grace Han brand? What legacy do you want to leave behind?

Nowadays, modern technology develops rapidly and traditional craftsmanship skills are lost gradually. However, "craftsmanship" is something that I attached great importance to when I started the brand. Because of this, I hope that leather craftsmanship can be enhanced in this fast-developing world. To achieve this goal, I moved our leather workshop back to my home country - Taiwan, where we trained a group of our craftsmen. Every craftsman has gone through 3-5 years of study and practice, it is this kind of solid and hard training that achieves the perfect quality of every Grace Han bag today. I sincerely wish the craftsmanship can be passed on forever.

Website: gracehan.shop

IG @gracehanglobal

Built on a belief that "different is beautiful", an independent eclectic furniture and homeware company Cotswold Grey brings global design to its customers. Based in the heart of the Cotswolds, this family-owned business is a small team with big ambitions, taking them on adventures all over the globe when sourcing products. Self-described professional collectors, they love nothing more than exploring distant countries and buying stunning pieces directly from artisans and artists, before bringing them home to share with their customers. Founded by Simon Jeffrey, Cotswold Grey now has two stores, an online destination and an interior design service, which keeps them very busy.

Take us back to the very beginning of Cotswold Grey. How and why was the business started?

Our founder, Simon Jeffrey, has always had a passion for collecting interesting furniture and homeware and had explored the idea of opening an interiors store in Marylebone, London. Simon grew up in Moreton-in-Marsh, so when the opportunity came along to purchase the building he was raised in, he knew it was the perfect place to begin the Cotswold Grey journey. The business is family owned and run by Simon, whose children have all worked here at various points but are now pursuing their own careers in London. We have since assembled a wonderful team here at Cotswold Grey and as a result, it very much feels like a family-run business.

Did you start online first or with the first showroom and/or the interior design service?

Cotswold Grey first began as a showroom but offering an interior design service seemed like a natural next step for us. The team shares a love of interiors and a passion for design, so we began offering our expertise to a wide range of clients in the Cotswolds and beyond. We have a friendly, collaborative and hands-on approach to each project, and our recent schemes include the sensational Silk Mill House in the centre of Blockley, as well as several Cosy Cotswold Cottages and local Hotels / Restaurants. This is a side of the business that we continue to grow and we will soon be expanding our Interior Design team solely dedicated to adding the Cotswold Grey touch to any home.

How do you curate the collections and products? What’s the process? Do you have certain criteria - quality requirements, style, concept?

Our furniture lines have been carefully hand-picked and purchased directly from artisans and master craftsmen from around the world. From vintage distressed cabinets to luxury sofas and contemporary coffee tables, we pride ourselves on showcasing one-of-a-kind pieces. Our collections are varied and ever-changing and we're always looking ahead for our next piece of inspiration. Some of our most popular additions include stylish rustic stools, our mid-century writing desk and mango wood Oslo stools. Instead of solely buying from wholesalers within the UK, we have chosen to have a wide and far-reaching selection of suppliers from all over the world. We have wonderful relationships with suppliers from India, China, Belgium and many other countries across the globe, and our love of unique pieces means our store is full of one-of-a-kind items that you won’t find anywhere else. While Simon does most of the sourcing himself, many team members at Cotswold Grey also have an input into the buying side of the business and often make suggestions for new and exciting items that we can sell both in our shop and online. We regularly check in with our customers to find out if there are gaps in our collections and we always make an effort to fill them!

How do you juggle store management with interior design services?

Our Moreton-in-Marsh store is run by our wonderful Flagship Manager Jo, while the Interior Design side is run by our talented designer Natalie. Many customers have worked with Natalie for years and continue to use her creative talent to help them bring their vision to life. Often, customers simply pop into the shop for advice and help with the finer details of a room, which is where Jo and our wonderful in-store team step in to help. Both aspects of the business run alongside one another and our team is always on hand to offer their expertise and to help customers with anything they need.

What is your favourite project to date?

We’re incredibly proud of Silk Mill House, our most recent design project with Luxury Cotswold Retreats. We worked hard to ensure this beautiful home offers a tranquil yet stylish space for guests to relax in during their stay in the Cotswolds. The sensational property has been carefully and thoughtfully designed and we wanted the Interior Design to offer the same attention to detail. Each item has been hand-picked to create a luxurious yet relaxing haven in the heart of the Cotswolds.

Do you sell to trade/ interior designers, especially the one-of-a-kind pieces?

Yes, we are incredibly excited to offer our wonderful collections to Interior Designers and Wholesale clients. Our fabulous sofas are always incredibly popular with our Interior Designers and range from modern and contemporary to timeless and classic designs. This season we’ve welcomed in a selection of premium linen sofas, a stunning range of artwork and have restocked our highly sought-after Frezoli lighting collection which we know our valued trade customers will love as much as we do! E

Website: cotswoldgrey.com

IG @cotswoldgrey