Served Up With Care

DonLeon brings his impeccable menu and breezy personality to a new location –462 Dillard Road in Highlands. He’s open from 11:00 A.M. to 3:00 P.M. Tuesday through Saturday.

It was a delight to get the assignment for a review of DonLeon’s, newly ensconced across the road from Dusty’s in Highlands.

That’s because I knew what I was getting into – a reunion with an old friend (and that includes the eternally patient, relentlessly cheerful Susan, who’s stationed at the counter and is always ready with a quip or a report on the state of the kitchen or the world); and, of course, a menu of lunch favorites and sides, served up with care. Let’s roll back the years, way back to the early aughts and I’ll explain the frisson of excitement I felt when Marjorie sent me on this rendezvous.

DonLeon’s Deli in Highlands, located in the building that now houses Los Vaqueros, was the stuff of legends. It was the place where you could find a meal under 10 bucks and, this is important, keep tabs on the comings and goings of this little mountain town.

And at the center of the show was the irrepressible DonLeon himself, a garrulous force of nature who knew his way about a quick-serve kitchen and a story. To Don Leon, you were a regular, even if you were walking in for the first time.

That’s why it hit hard when DonLeon suddenly up and left town, succumbing to a wanderlust and a sense that new adventures were awaiting, just over the horizon.

And that’s why it was an equal astonishment in 2020 to hear the news that DonLeon, after a decade-long absence, was back in Hi Town.

He has opened at 462 Dillard Road, complete with a comfy dining room and outdoor dining. He’s serving up a menu of Gyros, Chicken Pitas, Burgers, Philly Cheese Steaks, Wings, Greek Salads, and Chicken Tenders, and lots more.

Tricia fell in love with a Sabch Pita, an Israeli version of the classic Gyro – authentic Israeli pita, fresh chopped veggies, sauteed veggies, chopped egg, feta cheese, and tzatziki.

Our friend, who was in something of a predatory mood, chowed down on the Angus Burger – herbed Angus topped with applewood-smoked bacon and cheddar cheese, served up between a ciabatta bun.

For me, it was an old favorite from DonLeon’s food truck days – Billy Bob’s

Fish Fillet Sandwich – glorious fried cod on one of those ciabatta buns.

As I was peckish, I went ahead and included a Basket of Fries, which is featured on the menu under the heading of “Small Stuff.” Consumer Alert –there’s nothing small about this basket of chips smothered in cheddar cheese and laced with barbecued pork! This is a face-first plunge into the best of pub food! No regrets!

And of course, overseeing this entire enterprise is the irrepressible DonLeon, who labors in the kitchen, yet finds time to wander amidst the tables and converse with everyone. It’s a wonderful performance and he’s magnetic in his populist pull.

It’s why Highlanders remembered him after a decade’s-long absence, and it’s absolutely charming. Of course, Susan sets the tone for the visit with her easy chatting at the counter. In fact, both of them asked about my new dog from Cashiers-Highlands Humane Society and my son, who they haven’t seen in 10 years. How’s that for embedding yourself into small town life?

Whether you’re a lifelong Plateau dweller or someone just passing through, DonLeon is saving a table for you.

by Luke Osteen

Simplicity and Refreshment

Anxious about pairing your red with your summer grilled selection? Chill!

Now that its August and we’re all camping out around our grills, it’s time to explore what to drink. For those of you who’s usual pairing is a tall cold one with foam, let me suggest elevating your beverage and putting a stem on that glass.

The key to a successful wine-food pairing for outdoor dining is simplicity and refreshment. Don’t overthink it – the wine should be as casual as the setting. Wondering what wine is best to serve with all that hot from the grill food?

When your crowd gathers for a backyard barbecue and the menu features steak, lamb, burgers, grilled vegetables and the like, red wines are called for. Though you may regard that marbled piece of aged steak as the quintessential opportunity to open that long-hoarded bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, it hardly seems refreshing sitting outside on a hot day. Instead reach for a wine with a chill. But first we need to clear a few cobwebs out of the way. Among them that red wine can’t be served cooled. In fact, some red wines show their best attributes when cooled down a touch. That doesn’t mean that your wine should come straight from the fridge – between 55 and 60 degrees is ideal. Reds that taste great served at these temps are unoaked with lower tannin and higher acid. Translation: avoid tannins and oaky flavors. What does that leave? Only much of the low-priced red wine universe. Allow me to make a list, beginning in Italy: Barbera, Valpolicella, Chianti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, to name a few.

As for the steak, consider a Cabernet Franc from the Loire. A slight chill will activate the mouthwatering peppery attributes and high acid of this cool climate red - perfect companion to the dominant charred flavor of the meat.

As to Barbecue, I am a long-time believer that Champagne is perfect, as long as you steer clear of overly sweet sauce, which you should do anyway. For brisket, I also suggest a red wine with firm acidity and a touch of smoke to echo the meat. I’d reach for a Chianti, one that emphasizes the dusty, smoky fruit of the Sangiovese grape.

The simplest fare – hot dog and hamburgers – calls for relatively fruity red wines, especially those that are served slightly chilled such as Beaujolais, or a Russian River Pinot Noir.

Still have room on your grill? Simply grilled fish and chicken pair terrifically with Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner or even Verdejo. Citrusy, sometimes grassy, and always light, they are sophisticated enough to satisfy a refined palate yet simple enough to be pleasurable.

And of course, Rose would match any of these proteins flawlessly!

by Marlene Osteen