20 minute read
SIX INCREDIBLE WINTER HIKING DESTINATIONS WHERE YOU MOST LIKELY WON'T SEE SNOW
W R I T T E N B Y : C O U R T N E Y J O H N S O N
The beauty and cleansing power of a good hike should be celebrated year round. Just because the temperature drops and you may be able to see your breath in the air doesn’t mean it is time to put those hiking boots away. Consider a visit to one of these six incredible winter hiking destinations where flakes rarely fall from the sky.
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Big Bend National Park, Texas
If you are looking forward to uncrowded hiking trails and mild temps, Big Bend National Park is a bucket list winter hiking destination for you. Following the Mexican border in southwestern Texas, Big Bend is named for the vast curve of the Rio Grande River. Hikers can choose from a variety of hikes whether they prefer desert or mountain hiking or a mix of both. A bonus to visiting the park is that there are 26,000 identified archaeological sites within the park although most of the area has not been studied. Big Bend was also named an International Dark Star Park in 2012 making it the perfect setting to take in the stars. No dogs are allowed on national park trails.
The Hot Springs Historic Walk has two features that attract hikers of all ages and abilities- pictographs and hot springs. This one mile loop easy/intermediate hike follows the canyon wall with little elevation gain making it a great hike for families. If you are looking for a longer hike, the Hot Springs Trail is a moderate six mile loop passing by the hot springs and connecting with Daniel Ranch. Don’t forget to bring your camera and towel on this one.
Taking you into the Chisos Mountains, the Lost Mine Trail is a moderate 4.2 mile out and back hike with 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Open views of Juniper Canyon and Casa Grande along the saddle lead you to forested areas before you reach a ridge offering a view of the Sierra del Carmen in Mexico. This trail is highly rated amongst bird watchers. For those that enjoy desert terrain, the moderate 4.8 mile Chimneys Trail brings you to volcanic dike formations including Chimneys Arch. Along the “chimneys,” are examples of Indian rock art.
The Mule Ears Spring Trail is another desert hike that crosses several arroyos as it wounds through the foothills of the Chisos Mountains. The trail is a moderately rated 3.8 miles.
For a full day hike, the South Rim Trail is a moderately rated 12.6 mile hike beginning in the Chisos Basin and offers the best views in the park including the Chihuahuan Desert. You can add on a summit of Emory Peak, the tallest peak in the park at 7,832 feet, for an additional three miles for 15.6 miles total. Stargazing is recommended at the Mule Ears Viewpoint, on the Hot Springs Trail and at Santa Elena Canyon Overlook. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from any viewpoint including the Window Trail and Mules Ears.
For more information on the park including park maps, visit: https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm.
Chattanooga, Tennessee
With pretty typical winter weather and a lot of history, Chattanooga is a recommended destination for winter hiking. Although the area gets a bit of snow (mostly in the higher elevations), daytime afternoon temperatures are quite pleasant for hitting the trails and catching a sunset if you aren’t afraid to bundle up a little. Frozen waterfalls and leaf barren trees bring unique views to the area without the crowds.
The hike on Little Cedar Mountain offers a unique habitat perspective while it hugs the shoreline of the Tennessee River. One side of the mountain is often dry while the other side gets wet offering a difference of scenery on one hike. The four mile trail includes a one mile hike to a wetland pond and also allows hikers to see a rare plant- John Beck’s Leafcup (Polymnia johnbeckii). There is also history to this trail as the area was once inhabited by Native Americans. Views of the former NickJack Town, diverse wildlife, plant life and Sequatchie Valley are abundant. Bring your pup on this one along with his/her leash.
A trip to Lula Falls and hiking on the Lula Lake Land Trust requires some ahead of time planning, but the payoff is worth it. Only open on the first and last weekends of the month for Open Gate Days, it is located on the eastern slopes of Lookout Mountain. You can create a six mile hike by combining the several trails that take you to old rail beds from the 1800’s for views of the area including the upper falls and Lula Lake. Don’t miss the vista view as well that provides a full view of the valley. The frozen falls created by the water cascading from the lake over the cliffs. There is a $15 conservation fee, but the money goes right back into preserving the area. Currently on a reservation system, head to https://www.lulalake.org/visit.html to book a visit.
Lookout Mountain offers over 30 miles trails for taking in an unobstructed winter view and a bit of history. The location of the Battle of Lookout Mountain in the fall of 1863, Sunset Rock is one of the most popular hikes. The route via the Bluff Trail is a three mile out and back rated medium for the 500 plus feet of elevation change. There are several alternative routes to Sunset Rock including the more difficult Kiddie Trail. Sunset views are impeccable here including 180-degree views of the Tennessee River Gorge. This hike is perfect for kids and dogs on leash.
The three mile loop on Laurel Point to Raccoon Mountain is the perfect hike to warm up the body on a chilly day. The moderate rated singletrack trail offers views of the Tennessee River Gorge and surrounding area. The trail features a bit of climbing, roots and rocks too. The Raccoon Mountain Trails are popular with mountain bikers, so always be looking out for bikes. Pooches on a leash will enjoy the view too, especially the sunsets. If you want a longer hike, consider doing all or part of the Raccoon Mountain Reservoir Loop for 13.5 miles or start at East Overlook or The Switchyard for a shorter hike.
Take in views of Cumberland Mountain only seen in the winter on the Mullens Cove Loop Trail. Warm up the body and clear the mind on this 9.6 mile hike through the Prentice Cooper Wilderness Management Area. The huge variety of trees including hickory, oak and hemlock have all lost their leaves making for some incredible views of the gorge, river and the wilderness area. There are ways to shorten the hike including starting at Snoopers Rock (named for the moonshining done in the area) and taking the Mullins Cove Trail and Pot Point Trail to the Mullins Cover Overlook and gorge. Feel free to bring your leashed canine buddy with you on this hike. Other recommended hikes in Chattanooga are: North Chickamauga, Stringers Ridge, and Signal Mountain.
Mojave National Preserve- Kelso, California
The Mojave National Preserve is the third largest national park system in the United States at 1,542,776 acres. While the area is known for its extreme hot and dusty summer temps, winter day time temps hover in the 60’s and 70’s. However, nightly temperatures in the winter can get cold enough to make you think it might snow. Snow can be found most likely on the mountain tops especially in the west, but rain is more likely to fall in the lower elevations. The winds of the warmer months also die down in the winter adding to ideal hiking conditions. There is no entrance fee and no permits are needed to hike there. Furry friends are also allowed on the trails as long as they are leashed. For a bit of excitement, the Hole-in-the-Wall Rings Trail requires the use of ring bolts and hand holds to get you through some of the narrow rock passages safely. We recommend the full 1.5 mile loop for this moderate rated hike for the chance to encounter rare rock formations. If the wind is blowing, be sure to listen for the crying like sound that the wind makes as it blows through the “Swiss Cheese” rocks formations in Banshee Canyon. The overlook is a great starting point for your hike to get an overall view of the walls and holes created when the ash from a volcano eruption millions of years ago. You can continue the hike to Mid Hills Loop to create a 15.5 mile moderate day hike great for birding. If the Mid Hills Loop seems too long, consider adding the Barber Peak Loop to the Hole-in-the-Wall trail. This six mile loop meanders past the Opalite Cliffs and other dramatic rock formations before entering Banshee Canyon and back to the Hole-in-the-Wall.
One of the few well maintained trails in the park, you won’t get lost on the 3.2 mile Teutonia Peak Trail as it is also well signed. Dense forests of Joshua Trees is a highlight on this kid friendly hike. It does take some rock scrambling to reach the peak. Be sure to spend some time observing the closed off Teutonia Mines and the few artifacts you may be able to still see/find. This is a recommended sunset hike.
We recommend sturdy sandals, or at least good hiking shoes, for the sandy three mile moderate to strenuous rated Kelso Dunes Trail. There is no designated trail for this hike through the sand since weather continually changes the dunes. Experience the “singing sand” as the hot sand breaks over the cold sand as you leave your footprints. Look for old tracks for easier hiking as you make your way to the top of the dunes for views of the preserve. Create fun as you slide, run or maybe even roll down the sand back to the trailhead.
The short hike to the Lava Tubes is quite the experience for both adults and kids. The distance is 0.6 mile give or take depending on how much you explore. A bolted ladder brings you down into the tube. Spend time studying the walls of the tube and taking photos in the unique light.
The 6.5 mile non-established moderate Piute Creek Trail takes you through the Piute Gorge. Hikers can explore the ruins of Fort Puite- built in the 1880’s to protect travelers and mail coming along the Mojave Road. Very unusual for the area, a perennial stream can be found along the trial. Additional hikes to consider are: Kessler Peak Trail, Silver Peak Trail, and New York Mountain. Maps and more details can be found at: https://www.nps.gov/moja/index.htm.
For a bit of history, consider the one mile Rock Springs Trail. The trail begins at Rock House- a historic home made of rocks built and inhabited by a man named Ben Smith in 1929 while he recovered from poison gas exposure during WWI. Visitors will also see the remains of a mining site where deposits of gold, silver and other metals have been found. The trail also leads to an 1860’s military post and past seasonal watering holes.
Ocala NationalForest- Florida
The second largest protected forest in the state of Florida, the Ocala National Forest is a dreamy destination for hikers from the dry season of November through February looking for mild temperatures of lower 50’s at night and high’s in the lower 70’s in the day. It is believed that the word “Ocala” comes from a Timucuan term that means “big hammock”, or “fair land.” The forest features over six hundred natural ponds and lakes as well as conifer trees, long leaf pine and sand pine providing a perfect canopy of shade and a diverse mix of sand and dirt trails filled with history and scientific wonder.
The St. Francis Trail is a moderate rated 7.8 mile loop highlighting the area once a bustling port for riverboats in the 1800’s to trade goods. This well shaded hike is a fun mix of dirt path amongst the oaks, fungi (depending on time of year), pines, bridges and even boardwalks. Water may be crossing the path depending on recent weather, so your feet may get wet. Don’t miss the spur trails to various scenic spots along the trail as well. Evidence of the old logging roads can still be seen as the trail crosses several of these. A GPS, or other type of map, is recommended for this trail as there are confusing sections and corners. The area is popular with hunters from Nov-Jan, so wearing bright colors is recommended. Your best hiking buddy can enjoy the trail too on leash.
Take a walk back in time on the Yearling Trail. There are two options for this sandy hike- a 3.5 inner loop or the 5.5 mile outer loop that takes you on portions of the Florida Trail. Long ago, the last two inhabitants of this island area were the Longs. Their story about life on the island became the focus of author Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings book, and subsequent MGM film, “The Yearling.” Shot on location the cemetery is one popular attraction on the trail. Another popular feature of the trail is the sinkhole (look for a possible rope to swing over it). Bears are known to frequent the area, so a bear bell and/or spray is recommended. Despite being in a forest, this hike also lacks shade. Dogs are allowed to join on this hike as long as they are leashed. Kids will also enjoy this hike.
Hike a part of one of the 11 scenic trails in the United States along the Florida Trail. The Ocala Forest section was the first section to be developed and encompasses 72 miles. Sections vary in terrain from prairie to sandhills and even Big Scrub. One recommended section is from Alexander Springs to Farles Prairie- 8.3 miles through the Big Scrub. The hike from Lake Delancy to Rodman is a shorter 6.7 miles with a hilly stroll through forests of pines. The 12.8 mile Hopkins Prairie section to Salt Springs and back is known for great sunrises and sunsets. The 8.3 mile Juniper Prairie Wilderness section is highly rated and includes the Yearling Trail.
The Salt Springs Observation Trail is a great 1.9 looped family hike. Voted as one of the most scenic hikes in Florida, the trail highlights many habitats for insect and animal lovers including Big Scrub and floodplain forest. Birding is also popular along this trail from the observation deck. Keep an eye out for Osprey! Leashed dogs can also enjoy this scenic trail.
Another quick but scenic hike is the Juniper Springs Nature Trail. Located between the Juniper Springs swim area and Fern Hammock Springs, it is a 0.8 mile loop. A mix of boardwalk and dirt footpath, the trail highlights include two spring runs and subtropical forest. This is a great hike for all ages before enjoying some time at the Juniper Springs Recreation Area. Other recommended hikes are: the Davenport Landing Trail, Timucuan Trail, Lake Eaton, Ocala 28th Trail, and additional segments of the Florida Trail. For more information on the Ocala National Forest, head here.
Sedona, Arizona
With average lows in the mid 30’s and high’s around 60 for the winter months, Sedona is a popular winter hiking destination. The hiking is breathtaking in “Red Rock Country” named so for the red sandstone walls stained from hematite. Be prepared to see Instagram worthy overlooks, travel along rivers and walk past energy vortexes (swirling centers of energy for healing, self reflection and meditation).
Take on what is considered to be one of Arizona’s most difficult shorter hikes on the five mile round trip Bear Mountain Trail. The trail climbs a total of 1,800 feet in a short 2.5 miles, but takes you to views of the highest point in Arizona- Mount Humphrey. With the high elevation gain and the rocky terrain, good traction hikers are recommended as well as a windbreaker for the often windy summit. Bring your leashed furry friend on this one to see the 360 degree views. There is a $5 Red Rocks Pass fee.
The Devil’s Bridge Trail offers two different routes to a natural sandstone arch. One option is to walk right out to it, or you can walk below it and take stairs to the top of it. The route is a moderate 4.2 mile out and back with an easy wide start to the hike. As you approach the arch, the trail begins to gain elevation and narrow. This trail is popular with off-road vehicles, so many hikers choose to start at the Chuckwagon Trailhead for less congestion and a slightly shorter hike. Head here for a premiere sunrise or sunset view.
For a different hike, lace up and head to the West Fork Trail. This 7 mile hike winds through Oak Creek Canyon. Be prepared for water crossings as the trail crosses over West Fork Creek on several occasions. Hikers will enjoy the rock formations sculpted by the water and the shade from the tree cover. The hike turnaround is where the sandy trail stops and only water is in front of you. With only approximately 400 feet of elevation gain total, this hike is popular especially on weekends. There is a $11 parking fee and getting there early is recommended. Leashed dogs are welcome on the trail with strict enforcement.
Soldiers Pass is a hike that has it all- perfect for families. A 4.5 mile out and back, rarely is there a time on the trail that you won’t be seeing or passing a geological wonder. The Seven Sacred Pools, the Devil’s KItchen Sinkhole, numerous caves and endless views of the Sedona desert bring hikers of all ages to this spot. The hike is moderate as there is some harder terrain climbing into the cave. The trail gets tricky past the pools, so having navigation is helpful. This trail gets heavy use especially with the off-road crowd. Be sure to get there early for parking. Bring the pup and the leash.
Cathedral Rock is the pinnacle of all hikes in Sedona. Although it is only ¾ mile each way to the saddle and back, it is steep making this a moderate/ rated hike. There is a well known energy vortex at the base of the rock. After some switchbacks, there is rock scrambling, steep terrain and drop offs- so good hiking shoes are recommended. Take in some incredible views before sliding your way back down. Leash your pup up and bring them to this space of positive energy.
The Airport Mesa Loop Trail offers 360 degree views of what makes Sedona, Sedona. It takes you to viewpoints of some of the most popular sandstone landmarks and views of popular vortex areas. There is also a vortex area referred to as “Mini Mesa" hikers can detour off to. The 3.5 mile trail is rocky and features steep drop offs, so it is helpful to have hiking legs to really enjoy this one. Stargazers and sunset chasers will love this trail as well as leashed furry friends. Other recommendations for hikes are: Boynton Canyon, Bell Rock, and Fay Canyon.
St. George, Utah
The eye-catching red rock formations and temperatures in the upper 50’s on average in winter, make St. George, Utah a popular winter hiking destination. Generally snow free, it is also close in proximity to Zion and other popular hiking destinations.
Make sure you are wearing good footwear that covers the toes on the Diamond Cinder Cone Hike. Part of the Santa Clara Volcano, the cones were created when the volcano emitted cinders some 27,000 years ago. The 1.5 mile trail is covered in sharp volcanic rock and there are loose rocks near the summit. Hikers with steady legs and volcano lovers will enjoy this hike. There is a $15 entrance fee, and no dogs are allowed on the trails at Snow Canyon.
The Petrified Dunes Trail in Snow Canyon State Park is a 1.2 mile out and back (give or take due to the path you take and exploring you do). The sand was petrified into the rock over 200 million years ago. Good traction sturdy hikers are recommended due to the uneven terrain and drop offs. Kids will love climbing up and down the dunes. All hikers will enjoy taking in 360 degree views of sandstone cliffs, lava flows and piano rock- a black rock area that resembles a mini piano. There is a $15 entrance fee, and no dogs are allowed on the trails at Snow Canyon.
For a bit of scrambling and passage through an almost secret slot, the five mile Petroglyph Loop in Snow Canyon State Park is a must do. Access for the trail is recommended from the Gila Trail (see current restrictions etc. as some access points have been closed off, and the hike could possibly be 8 miles round trip). The moderate sandy and rocky trail takes hikers past red rock formations and through a short secret slot covered by vegetation. The walls of the slot contain Fremont petroglyphs. No dogs are allowed on the trails at Snow Canyon. The trail begins outside of the park, so no entrance/trail fee is required. Just outside St. George, The Bowl/Vortex in Lower Sand Cove is another hiking favorite for those looking for a moderate hike with a lot of reward in scenery. The 2.5 mile trail is best suited for experienced hikers with its mix of sand, rocks and lava flows to cross. Just how the bowl was created is still a geological mystery, but visiting it is one of the highlights of a visit to St. George. Leashed dogs are welcome on the trail.
For a longer and dog friendly hike, Beck Hill is a 5.1 mile hike but can be accessed only via the Chuckwalla Trail for a 7.1 total hike located in Red Cliffs Desert Preserve. The trail is a favorite for animal lovers with diverse wildlife from eagles and roadrunners to rabbits and tortoises. The unique rock formations create picture worthy landscapes while the gentle incline and decline make this a good early entry into longer hikes for kids. Dogs on a leash can also enjoy the trail. You may also see bikers and horses on the trail. There is a $5 entry fee for the reserve.
An hour outside of town, is the Yant Flat- also known as Candy Cliffs. This hike through the forest of Pine Valley Mountain and across sandstone so sculpted and colorful you can’t help but feel like you are in a candy factory. Hikers can make what they want of the hike by just doing the one mile out and back through the trees to the sandstone or explore for up to 3.5 miles or so each way for a 7 mile hike. Kids and leashed dogs will love climbing the formations, and adults may feel like a kid again in this natural “sweet” playground. There is no shade on the cliffs, and the drive to and from the trailhead is an adventure with higher clearance vehicles recommended due to the rocks and ruts.
Other recommended hikes are: Turtle Wall Trail, Elephant Arch Trail (photo below), Johnson Canyon Arch Trail, Temple Quarry Trail and the Owen’s Loop Trail. Worth a couple hours are the trails and rocks at Pioneer Park adjacent to Red Cliffs Desert Preserve for free scrambling fun the whole family will enjoy.
Courtney Johnson is a book author, freelance writer and teacher based in Erie, CO. Most of her days are spent chasing her 7 year old daughter on the bike trails, ski runs and up climbing routes.