Baekdu-daegan review

So what was so special about the hike? Certainly, that indescribable feeling of doing something a bit out-of-the-ordinary, and that satisfaction of being up there alone, with sounds drifting up from farms and villages way down in the valleys below. On top of these, is the knowledge that the Baekdu-daegan mountain ridge is deeply embedded within the Korean psyche, as a life-giver and a protector, and thus as a deity (as described in David Mason's inspiring essay in the book). Then there are the obvious features of the trail: stunning views with endless series of valleys, ridges and peaks, the spring flowers bursting into bloom (with intense azalea-fests), sounds such as the rattling of a woodpecker's drill and the calls of barking deer on adjacent ridges in the early hours of the morning, walking along ancient, ancient fortress walls, detours down to temples of extreme beauty nestled in among lower ridges that extend way up to the trail ridge, a beautiful afternoon walk via apple orchards through quiet countryside to get to the ruins of Mireuk-saji (such stunning ambience, with the mountains for a backdrop: one of my favorite places in Korea). And then the sheer bliss of reaching a motel for a well-earned rest, a hot shower, a comfortable bed, a hot and satisfying meal and a cold beer!

Added to these trail features was the sheer hospitality and generosity of many of the Koreans that I met while on the trail. The couple who insisted I join in with them for an evening meal in a mountain shelter, the family who took me into their home during a day of pouring rain, the retiree (who hikes frequently to sustain his sense of well-being) who drove me around a detour so as to get me around an extensive closed section, visiting the out-of-the-way Gagyeon temple with a stone Vairocana Buddha with the fist-of-wisdom hand gesture en route, and the numerous hikers who 'adopted' me whist hiking, filling me with food (of many descriptions), drink (also of many descriptions!) and conversation (of all sorts, usually with minial English on their part, and minimal Korean on mine).

I would not have undertaken this 'adventure' - which although sounding a little twee is exactly what it was - without the Baekdu-daegan Trail guidebook, as it introduced me to the hike. Nor could I have done what I was able to achieve without it; it was an essential part of my kit, providing me with all sorts of practical advice and detail. My intention is to return to Korea, hopefully next year, to continue and perhaps complete the trail in Seorak-san National Park. I would like to hike in autumn next time, perhaps in October, so as to avoid - hopefully- those chilly days that behave like winterhangovers. I would prefer not to hike alone again (as an injury of some sort is always a possibility in any such undertaking), and I plan to hike with a considerably lighter pack so as to allow me to go considerably faster, next time. However, the Baekdu-daegan Trail (Hiking Korea's Mountain Spine) guidebook will again be an essential part of my 'equipment'. " Regards - Jeffrey Hanna Presented by HikeKorea@2011