SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
14 MARCH 2023
SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES HIGHLIGHTS
SALE 1156
14 March 2023
10:00am CT | Online
Lots 1–317
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CONTENTS Spring Fashion & Accessories | Highlights 2 Hindman Team 22 Inquiries 23 Upcoming Auction Schedule 24 FRONT COVER Lot 1
DEN 0001957 FL AB3688 GA AU-C003121 IL 444.000521 OH 2019000131 MO STL 110363 Download the Hindman App for iOS and Android © Hindman LLC 2023
2 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Arthur McGee (1933–2019)
The Spring Fashion auction is headlined by The Collection of Arthur McGee, comprising 45 garments and ensembles alongside a personal and business archive that documents the designer’s life and career. The collection honors the legacy of Arthur McGee and exemplifies the elegant and innovative designs for which he became renowned.
Arthur McGee was born in Detroit, Michigan, where he was introduced to fashion through his mother, who was a skilled dressmaker. His potential was recognized early, when he became the recipient of a scholarship to study fashion in New York City, where he studied apparel design and millinery at the Traphagen School of Design and later the Fashion Institute of Technology. It was at this time, the early 1950s, that McGee worked with Anglo-American fashion designer Charles James, who was at the height of his career in New York. Arthur McGee also created theatrical costumes for celebrities of the stage, including Sybil Burton, Mary Ure, and Josephine Premice. During these formative years, McGee became part of a thriving cultural substrate that eventually made him part of a constellation of fashion stars, whose legacy still resonates today.
As early as 1957, at the age of 24, McGee made history by becoming the first African American to run the design room of an established Seventh Avenue apparel company. By the 1960s, McGee had worked as the head designer for several clothing lines in New York and opened his own shop on St. Mark’s Place, where he began to sell his designs at major department stores.
Arthur McGee was determined to ensure that the African American community would benefit from his unique career path. He influenced and mentored a generation of young African American designers in the 1970s and 80s, such as Willi Smith, Stephen Burrows, Scott Barrie, Jeffrey Banks, and B. Michael. His legacy is so powerful that he became known as the “The Grandfather of Fashion Designers of Color.” His roster of clients had no shortage of iconic names, including Stevie Wonder, Cicely Tyson, Dexter Gordon, Arthur Mitchell, Geoffrey Holder, Charlayne HunterGault, and Phyllis Hyman. McGee brought fashion to the epicenter of the racial debate that is still so relevant today.
The collection exhibits McGee’s dedication to creating clothing that was accessible to all. For Arthur McGee, everyone was entitled to affordable, but sophisticated designs. Highlighting the auction will be garments that exemplify McGee’s passion for fusing the traditional with the contemporary. The designs reflect McGee’s employment of everything from refined lines to loose silhouettes, many with fabrics from or inspired by Africa. While McGee was known for his classic and timeless designs, he also didn’t ignore the importance of creating practical clothes that anyone could wear.
OPPOSITE3 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Arthur McGee, 1970s, from the Arthur McGee Archive, Lot 1
The items on this page are selections from the Arthur McGee Archive, which consists of dozens of documents and photographs connected to the personal and business life of the designer from the 1930s to his death in 2019. The archive holds hundreds of sketches and patterns created by Arthur McGee over several decades, including two muslin toiles and several full-scale paper patterns. As seen above, the archive also holds a collection of origami that was folded and studied by Arthur McGee, as well as several published books on fashion design, textiles, and history. Lastly, the archive holds the shirt and scarf that Arthur McGee can be seen wearing in many of the images in the archive taken in the early 21st century, including when McGee was honored at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2009.
1 Arthur McGee Archive $4,000 - 6,000
4 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Designs by Arthur McGee
Left to Right: Lots 6, 3, 2
5 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Estimates Vary
Arthur McGee’s Legacy
The net proceeds from the sale of this collection will benefit a scholarship for emerging fashion designers from Arthur McGee Legacy, LLC, which was established by his long-time friends Johnetta Shearer and Maxine Gordon. The collection was organized by them and includes their garments as well as those of Irene Kubota Neves. Arthur McGee Legacy LLC was created to honor McGee’s work and continue to keep the spotlight on his contributions.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
6 SPRING
Designs by Arthur McGee, 1970-90s Lot numbers and estimates vary
7 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Arthur McGee, 1970s, from the Arthur McGee Archive, Lot 1
The items on these two pages highlight some of the design techniques and materials for which Arthur McGee became known. The four mannequins on this page wear garments created using traditional West African Indigo dying techniques, including starch- and tied-resist dyes. The mannequins on page 9 document McGee’s interest in innovative pattern cutting, which he used and studied throughout his career. The two mannequins on the left (page 9) show the front and back of a dress that was made by sewing three quadrants of a circle together, while the woolen items on the right two mannequin (page 9) show McGee’s interest in the folds and geometric shapes of origami.
7 Indigo-Dyed Garments and Ensembles by Arthur McGee, 1970-90s
8 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
$500 - 700
13
One of Three Dresses by Arthur McGee, 1980s $500 - 700
9 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
16 Three-Piece Ensemble by Arthur McGee, 1980s $500 - 700
70 Bronze Bust of Bertha Palmer Made by The Henry-Bonnard Bronze Company, 1884
10 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
$500 - 700
A Chicago Family
The Spring Fashion auction contains a rare collection of Chicago history items connected to two emblematic protagonists of the Gilded Age: Bertha and Potter Palmer. While many of this couple’s possessions are now highlights of the collections of the Art Institute of Chicago and the Chicago History Museum, many additional items have remained in the family and were carefully preserved for generations. Some of the historically significant items in this collection are related to Mrs. Potter Palmer’s appointment as President of the Board of Lady Manager’s of Chicago’s 1893 World’s Fair, while other items document the Palmers’ private and public spheres through a rare collection of embroidered sheets and linens used in the family’s home. Also included in this collection are several high fashion and haute couture garments created for Bertha and Potter Palmer’s children and grandchildren, including several rare designs by the Parisian house of Callot Soeurs.
11 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Chicago History
The items on this page were owned by Bertha and Potter Palmer during the late 19th and early 20th centuries in Chicago. The pin (below) was worn by Bertha Palmer when she was President of the Board of Lady Manager’s at the 1893 World’s Fair, while the lace fan (below right) features her initials in the center of the design. The 18k gold head cane (right), features the name of its owner, Potter Palmer.
Interestingly, two of the Louis Vuitton trunks in this collection (page 13) feature the initials of the original owner, “BMHP” for Bertha Matilde Honoré Palmer. Following Bertha Palmer’s death in 1918, it appears that the trunks became the possession of her daughter-inlaw, Pauline Palmer, who had her initials, “PP”, painted over those of Bertha Palmer’s. While Pauline Palmer’s initials are the same as her husband’s, Potter Palmer II, there are several travel stickers on the sides of the trunks that are addressed to a Mrs. Potter Palmer and the address of Pauline Palmer’s home.
72 President, Board of Lady Manager’s Pin, 1893 $500 - 700
73 Lace Fan from Collection of Bertha Palmer Items, 1890-1910s $500 - 700
12 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
71 Potter Palmer’s Cane with Gold Head, c. 1870-1900 $1,000 - 2,000
Lots and Estimates Vary
68
Detail of Louis Vuitton Trunk, Late 19th Century $4,000 - 6,000
Group of Louis Vuitton Trunks and Carriage Case, 1880-1930s
13 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Haute Couture in Chicago
The haute couture dresses on these two pages were made for Pauline Kohlsaat Palmer, the daughter-in-law of Bertha and Potter Palmer. Pauline Kohlsaat was born and raised in Chicago, the daughter of a newspaper editor, and a leader in Illinois Republican politics. In 1908, she married Potter Palmer II, who had become the director of the First National Bank and president of the Art Institute of Chicago. Pauline Palmer became a dedicated client of the Parisian haute couture houses of Callot Soeurs and Madeleine Vionnet from the 1920s to the 1930s. When Potter Palmer II died in 1943, he left his wife Pauline an estimated 4.5 million dollars. Pauline donated many couture garments, including additional Callot Soeurs and Vionnet that are very similar to the dresses featured here, to the Chicago History Museum.
80 Unlabeled Dress Attributed to Callot Soeurs, 1920s $400 - 600 14 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
81 | Details
81 Callot Soeurs Green Silk Dress with Lace, 1920s $1,000 - 3,000 78 Callot Soeurs Black Dress and Slip, 1920s $1,000 - 3,000 77 Unlabeled Dress Attributed to Vionnet, 1930s $1,000 - 3,000 15 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
16 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Featured on these two pages are travelling trunks and cases that were used by Mrs. Pauline Palmer during the early decades of the 20th century. The cases are filled with glass jars topped with Mrs. Pauline Palmer’s monogram. The cigarette case was made by Cartier and the silver match holder features matches from the famous Pump Room, a restaurant in downtown Chicago. Also included in this collection are nearly 200 letters written to the family between 1920 and the 1940s.
76 Collection of Items From Pauline Kohlsaat Palmer and Palmer Family, Early 20th Century $400 - 600
17 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
95 Drecoll Dress, 1910s $300 - 500 18 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
The Valentine Museum
The Spring Fashion auction boasts an important collection from the Valentine Museum in Richmond, Virginia, deaccessioned from the museum to benefit collections care, preservation, and future acquisitions. Opened in 1898, the Valentine Museum was one of the first museums in Richmond and is now dedicated to collecting, preserving, and interpreting Richmond’s history. The items offered in this collection document over 150 years of fashion history, including designs from throughout the 19th century and more contemporary works by designers such as Paquin, Pingat, Henriette Favre, Liberty of London, Jean Dessés, Norman Hartnell, Balenciaga, Hanae Mori, Halston, and Chanel.
Estimates Vary
ABOVE Left to Right: Robe, 1850s, Lot 88 Liberty of London Cape, c. 1900, Lot 96 Balenciaga Dress, 1950s, Lot 103
19 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Coat by Jeffrey Banks, 1980s, Lot 17
Two Dresses, One Scott Barrie and One Fabrice, 1980-90s, Lot 18
20 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Estimates Vary
CLOCKWISE 107 Suit by Lachasse, 1950s $300 - 500 282 Chanel Skirt Suit, c. 1984 $400 - 600 111 Fontana Sisters Dress, 1960s $400 - 600 21 FOR ADDITIONAL IMAGES AND LOT DETAILS VISIT HINDMANAUCTIONS.COM
Couture & Luxury Accessories
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22 SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Inquiries
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GINA O’CONNOR CATALOGUER
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COUTURE & LUXURY ACCESSORIES
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MARKETING
ASHLEY GALLOWAY VICE PRESIDENT
PHOTOGRAPHY
ZOË BARE DIRECTOR
DAVID JACKSON SUPERVISOR
GABBY BOSHARA* CARMEN COLOME CHAD FEIERSTONE LIM HWOANG DEOGRACIAS LERMA ROBERTO MARTINEZ
LIBBY MOORE
MIKE REINDERS
BILL ROSS
RACHEL SMITH
DALLAS TOLENTINO HARLEY WINCE
DESIGN
AIMEE GUZMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR
BRIAN MASLOUSKI SENIOR DESIGNER JENNIFER CASTLE* GRAPHIC DESIGNER
*LEAD PHOTOGRAPHY AND DESIGN FOR SALE 1156
Updated 2.8.23
Lot 246
Hermès Epsom Leather Kelly 32, 2014
$8,000 - 10,000
Upcoming Auction Schedule
SALE 1149
ROADSIDE ATTRACTION:
THE SUSANN CRAIG COLLECTION, CHICAGO, IL
MARCH 9 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1156
SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES
MARCH 14 | CHICAGO | ONLINE
SALE 1157
PROPERTY FROM THE FRED AND KAY KREHBIEL COLLECTION, PART I
MARCH 15 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1159
PROPERTY FROM THE FRED AND KAY KREHBIEL COLLECTION, PART II
MARCH 16 | PALM BEACH | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1158
PROPERTY FROM THE FRED AND KAY KREHBIEL COLLECTION, PART III
MARCH 17 | ONLINE
SALE 1201
GRAILS AND GOATS
MARCH 24 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1124
CHINESE & HIMALAYAN WORKS OF ART
MARCH 28 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
ACCESSORIES
SALE 1160
JAPANESE & KOREAN WORKS OF ART
MARCH 29 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1130
AMERICAN FURNITURE, FOLK & DECORATIVE ARTS
MARCH 30 | CINCINNATI | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1098
WATCHES
APRIL 12 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1147
POST WAR & CONTEMPORARY ART
APRIL 19 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1174
PRINTS & MULTIPLES
APRIL 20 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1133
NATIVE AMERICAN ART
APRIL 21 | CINCINNATI | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1137
WESTERN & CONTEMPORARY NATIVE AMERICAN ART
MAY 4 | DENVER | LIVE + ONLINE
SALE 1183
PHOTOGRAPHS
MAY 9 | CHICAGO | LIVE + ONLINE
24 SPRING FASHION &
SPRING FASHION & ACCESSORIES | 14 MARCH 2023 NO. 1156