5 minute read
Ralph Rucci
39 Christian Dior Paris Wool Coat with Floral Appliqué and Embroidery, Fall 2018 $400 - 600
Hand-stitched with screen-printed and appliquéd flowers and insects, this coat evokes an enchanted garden, a hallmark of the classic Dior lexicon. A small bee (page 26, top left) on the right hip suggests the insignia of the label, and one of superstitious Christian Dior’s lucky charms. In his memoirs, he likened the seamstresses in his atelier to bees: “A small hive full to bursting, that is what my house was when I presented my first collection.” Though created for ready-to-wear, the coat’s appliqué technique makes apparent the skill and labor needed to create this garment.
“His work expresses at all times an exuberance combined with restraint,” wrote André Leon Talley of couturier Ralph Rucci. “It is at once colossal and fragile, a Rucci construction of peerless seams and details. In his passion for ‘old school’ ideals, he refuses to compromise. The high standards of classical verities established by the masters of Paris haute couture are essentially the foundation of everything Rucci achieves.”¹ Rucci’s approach to fashion is one of profound thoughtfulness and exactitude. In his materials, construction and techniques, Rucci honors the traditions of French couture. Reverent to his influences, Rucci credits Charles James, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Madeleine Vionnet among the designers who have shaped his vision. Equally, contemporary visual art, Asian aesthetics and classical antiquity play a key role in the Rucci visual pantheon. These components, combined with his commitment to artistry and quality, have enabled Rucci to hone and mature his creative expression over forty years, and earning recognition by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, who invited him to show at Parisian haute couture as the second American in history.
For Rucci, transitioning to haute couture was a natural progression. He acquires only the finest textiles, furs and surface treatments, working with François Lesage for embroideries and sourcing silk gazar from Maison Bucol in Lyons, France, as had Balenciaga. His clothes are for people who see fashion as a work of art. The extraordinary craftsmanship of each garment indicates a profound appreciation for the skill and labor of the most sophisticated artisanship. Rucci derives inspiration from his clients themselves, developing symbiotic relationships between artist and patron. Deeda Blair, a longtime client, appreciates his work for its “deceptive simplicity,” clothes that quietly reveal their “great intricacy.”² In Rucci, Smith found qualities that aligned so closely with her own discerning eye, as Hamish Bowles describes: “unimpeachable good taste, a nuanced color palette, flattering silhouettes, and his legendary workmanship.”3
1 Andre Leon Talley, quoted in Valerie Steele, Ralph Rucci: The Art of Weightlessness (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2007), p. 97. 2 Deeda Blair, quoted in Ralph Rucci, p. 3. 3 Hamish Bowles, “Ralph Rucci’s Pragmatic Luxury and Haute Craftsmanship Has Never Seemed So Timely,” Vogue Runway, July 14, 2021, https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/ralph-rucci-fall-2021-couture.
52 Ralph Rucci Printed and Beaded Silk Sleeveless Top, Fall 2011 $300 - 400
Digital screen prints set the garments alight, demonstrating Rucci's propensity for abstract art as surface decoration for his designs among a collection he described as “specific, brash, and sexy.” 53 – 54 Ralph Rucci Screen-Printed Silk Jackets And Blouse, Spring 2009 See Online Catalogue for Estimates.
56 Ralph Rucci Net-Encased Ostrich Feather Jacket $1,000 - 2,000
A prime example of Rucci’s suspension technique, ostrich feathers are encased within triple panels of black and tan tulle, fragmented into a geometric patchwork effect and conjoined with narrow bands of black tulle. Hidden within the lines of the patchwork are the shape of the garment. The result is weightless and structured, heavily worked while appearing organic.
68 Ralph Rucci Golden Sable and Braided Leather Stroller Coat $600 - 800
A favorite material of Rucci’s, this leather coat is braided and woven by hand to produce a stunning topography of varying textures and techniques, with each narrow band subtly reflecting the light. 69 Ralph Rucci Braided and Woven Leather Jacket $2,000 - 4,000
70 Ralph Rucci Open Work Wool Crepe Jacket $400 - 600
To create the open work effect, Rucci uses horizontal bands of wool crepe fabric, cut into variegated zigzag forms. Each double-layer band is conjoined and hand-finished by inserting the edges into the bands above and below. Stitches are hidden to produce a rational, geometric look, a feat of meticulous workmanship.
71 Ralph Rucci Wool Crepe and Net Banded Jacket $1,000 - 2,000
Each leather jacket was hand cut and woven to resemble armor, elegant and strong. The hardness of the leather contrasts with the finery of the detail.
Lot 73, Detail
Lot 74, Detail
81 Ralph Rucci Printed and Beaded Silk Jacket $300 - 500
An abstract screen-printed design is emphasized and textured by embroidered beads in this adaptation of a classic silhouette by Rucci. The sloped shoulder and structured form pay homage to Balenciaga, a perennial inspiration for the designer.
84 Ralph Rucci Paisley Coat with Lamb Fur Trim, 2011 $500 - 700
Lot 52, Detail
Lot 56, Detail
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Lot 80, Detail
80 Ralph Rucci Cashmere and Embroidered Leather Jacket, Fall 2013 $700 - 900
