A Tale of Two Cities: Dublin & Cork

BY KERRIE KENNEDY

THERE’S AN AGE-OLD RIVALRY BETWEEN IRELAND’S TWO LARGEST CITIES, DUBLIN AND CORK, BUT THE FACT OF THE MATTER IS, BOTH CITIES ARE UNDENIABLY BEAUTIFUL, OFFERING SOME OF THE BEST FOOD AND DRINK, SHOPPING, SIGHTS AND HISTORY IN ALL OF IRELAND. SPRING IS THE PERFECT TIME TO VISIT. HERE’S A LOOK:

Ha’penny Bridge, Dublin, Ireland

Downtown Cork, Ireland

DUBLIN

While the city of Dublin contains more than 650 licensed pubs, there’s more to Dublin than a pint of Guinness. Founded by Vikings in the ninth century, who called it the “Norse Kingdom of Dublin,” this historic city on the River Liffey is home to Trinity College, Ireland’s top-ranked university, whose famous graduates include writers Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift (Gulliver’s Travels) and Bram Stroker (Dracula). Trinity College also houses Ireland’s national treasure, “The Book of Kells,” a sacred manuscript made by Celtic monks around 800 A.D. that consists of the Four Gospels of the New Testament. Not surprisingly, Dublin boasts many iconic churches, including Christ Church (dating back to the 11th century), St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Ireland’s largest) and St. Audoen’s, the only medieval parish church in Dublin that has maintained all of its original features. With all its rich history, it might be a surprise to learn that Dublin possesses the youngest population in all of Europe, giving the city an energetic vibe that is truly contagious.

Guinness Storehouse brewery in Dublin

Eat & Drink.

With more than ten million pints of Guinness produced daily in Dublin, it goes without saying that visiting a pub is an absolute must. A good place to start is Brazen Head, established in 1198 A.D. as a coach house, and Dublin’s oldest pub. Or check out the Temple Bar area, where bars line the narrow cobblestone streets. Take a tour of the Guinness Storehouse, and afterwards, you’ll be rewarded with a free pint in the Gravity Bar, featuring panoramic views of the entire city. When it comes to dining, gone are the days when you need to settle for pub grub—Dublin’s restaurant scene has never been better. One of the best is the Michelin-star-rated The Greenhouse, a showcase for Dublin’s best produce. Chapter One, located in the basement of the Dublin Writer’s Museum, is a special-occasion farm-to-table restaurant that reflects the great Irish tradition of conviviality. For something more casual, try Mulligan Grocer, a 20th-century pub, where menus arrive tucked into books, and the bill comes with a bag of candies. Or head over to the Fish Shop on Queens Street, which only serves wild Irish fish, along with an inspired menu of wines by the glass.

The Shelbourne Dublin

Stay.

You might be surprised to learn that you can stay in a luxurious hotel in Dublin for less than $200 per night. Options include the Shelbourne Dublin, set in a hundreds-year-old majestic building in the city center. The five-starrated hotel offers plush rooms, a full-service spa/ salon, award-winning restaurants and an indoor pool and fitness center. Established in 1845, Wynn’s Hotel Dublin offers cozy period charm and contemporary comforts in the city center, right around the corner from the famed Abbey Theatre. The Clarence Hotel, formerly owned by U2 singer Bono and lead guitarist The Edge, and located in the popular Temple Bar neighborhood, reflects the aesthetics of a 1930s gentlemen’s club, featuring beds draped in Irish linens, velvet drapes and an excellent bar.

CORK

Considering that Cork is the largest county in Ireland—not to mention the largest single source for all Irish emigration during the 19th century, many “Corkonians” consider themselves to be living in the real capital, not Dublin. One thing that’s not in dispute, however, is Cork’s reputation as the food capital of Ireland. The center of the city’s gourmet scene is its English Market, dating back to 1788, and bursting with the bounty of Cork’s rich farmland and sea. Often called a mini-Paris, thanks to its many bridges over the River Lee, Cork’s compact size makes it an easy city to explore on foot— an excellent way to work off all the calories you will inevitably be taking in. Some of Cork’s must-see sights include St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral, built in 1862 with Cork limestone and Cork marble, St. Anne’s Church, which still uses its original 18th-century bells, and Blarney Castle and the world-famous Blarney Stone.

Eat & Drink.

Start with a visit to the English Market, where you can tuck into a hearty bowl of Irish stew or a platter of fresh rock oysters. Located in Cork’s historic Victorian Quarter, Greenes features upscale global cuisine in an 18th-century warehouse. A must for vegetarians (or really anyone) is Café Paradiso, an iconic vegetarian restaurant that works with local farmers and cheese-makers to produce seasonal menus that put vegetables and rich, complex flavors front and center. Finally, what could be better than a tour of the Butter Museum, which documents the history of Ireland’s most important food export, and includes a taste-test of Irish brown bread and butter?

Ballymaloe Hotel and Restaurant

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOLEEN CRONIN

Stay.

In keeping with the foodie theme, the Ballymaloe House, located in an ivy-covered country mansion on the outskirts of the city, and run in conjunction with the famed Ballymaloe Cookery School, features 30 genteel rooms and a renowned restaurant that serves up a full Irish breakfast, afternoon tea and a five-course dinner. Amenities include a five-hole golf course, outdoor pool, tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Located in the city center, the Imperial Hotel, built in 1813, has hosted such illustrious guests as Sir Walter Scott, Franz Lizst and Charles Dickens. Afternoon tea here is a must, and parking is only $10 a day. Exuding period-style elegance, Hayfield Manor, with its thick carpets and rich furnishings, is like an oasis in the city, and just a ten-minute stroll from historic sites and shopping. The fullservice hotel features two restaurants, a library with adjacent walled garden, a spa, pool, outdoor hot tub and of course, an extravagant bar, the perfect place to unwind with an Irish whiskey after a day of touring one of Ireland’s best cities.