VISIT IRELAND

Rugged coastlines, windswept landscapes and legendary hospitality

BY MAUREEN CALLAHAN

For a relatively small island, Ireland’s influence is far-reaching. Scores of immensely talented dancers, musicians, and artists either call this island-nation home, or have descended from it. The chill in the air is not for the faint of heart, but there’s plenty of wool for sale, and the world-renowned warmth of new friends understates it.

Read on for a few suggestions of places to visit in this land of celebrated poets, playwrights, storytellers, saints, and sinners. These are the people who discovered-or invented-humor, so relax and don’t plan to take much seriously- the Irish certainly don’t!

Outdoor Sites

The Burren, County Clare

You’ll come away with an understanding of why “burren” evolved from a Gaelic word meaning “rocky place.” Walk on the giant limestone slabs, pick some of the wildflowers growing between them, and take photos of the giant dolmen (stone, megalith monuments) that dot this moon-like landscape. You’ll likely visit the Cliffs of Moher and The Burren is only 40 minutes inland.

Giant’s Causeway, Country Antrim Drive to the area, then get out and walk some of Europe’s most rugged coastline. This 33-mile stretch consists of thousands of tightly-packed hexag- onal shaped columns that slope down into the sea. It feels like the edge of the earth. Walk 30 meters above the water across the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, that binds the mainland to a tiny island of the same name.

Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary

AKA “St Patrick’s Rock,” it’s among Ireland’s most significant historic sites. Here, St Patrick converted King Aengus to Christianity in the fifth century, although most of the remaining structure dates to the 1200s. Surprisingly, many of the walls are still intact and worth a wander. Sunset is a great time to explore the castle-like cathedral structure and ancient graveyard.

Libation Tours

Guinness Brewery, Dublin

Start thinking of the toast you’ll offer as you raise a pint of the freshest Guinness on earth. By the end of the 250-year-old stout’s 7-story museum tour, you’ll understand why it’s the world’s highest-selling libation.

Old Bushmills Distillery, Country Antrim

The word “whiskey” evolved from a Scottish-Gaelic phrase meaning “water of life.” After 400 years, Bushmills takes triple-distilling whiskey as an art. Take in a tour of Northern Ireland’s scenic, jagged cliffs, then stop in to warm up with a glencairn of Northern Ireland’s smoothest whiskey.

Vintage Tea Trips, Dublin & Cork

Although tea is not a libation, it’s Ireland’s most available beverage. Therefore, it’s worthy of an entire afternoon. Sip your favorite kind as you tour either Dublin or Cork on a vintage, two-story bus. Sit back in time while you nibble local pastries and listen to jazz.

Islands

Blasket Islands, Dingle Peninsula

The ideal place to escape the modern world, with plenty of unspoiled nature. Visit on a sunny day, via the ferry ride from Dunquin, West Kerry. It is a good place to bird watch and catch glimpses of dolphins and whales. Visit the abandoned stone houses.

Aran Islands, County Galway

The ancient forts on top of these islands’ cliffs are some of Ireland’s oldest archeological remains. The islands first became populated when Oliver Cromwell’s decrees made the mainland dangerous for the Irish people. Listen to hear traces of Ireland’s native tongue as you visit the 38 national monuments found here.

Skellig Michael, County Kerry

Home to the ancient St Fionan’s Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this archeological settlement is definitely worth the trek. Climb the 600-plus steep, uneven steps to the top to understand how this community of monks lived a cloistered- but likely fitexistence until their departure 800 years ago.

Experiences

The Quiet Man Cottage & Museum, County Mayo

It’s almost possible to hear the banter of John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara while visiting an exact replica of White O’Morn, The Duke’s cottage from this country’s most iconic film. Walk back into 1950s Ireland as you visit this “Graceland” of sorts. Hop on a walking tour of filming locations from here. Locals tell tales of how the whole town (and virtually all of Ireland!) was included- one way or another- in John Ford’s Hollywood masterpiece.

National Famine Memorial, County Mayo

On the banks of Clew Bay, pause for a moment at this somber, bronze memorial to the “coffin ships,”- vessels which earned their names from the number of people buried at sea while attempting to flee Ireland during the potato famine. Human skeletons depicted as the ship’s rigging are a stark reminder of food insecurity and those desperately seeking passage to the United States.

Titanic Belfast Museum, Belfast

This museum showcases the world’s most recognizable ship from the exact spot from which it was designed, built and launched in the Belfast shipyards, now known as Maritime Mile.

MERRY-MAKING

Doolin, County Clare

Doolin is renowned as the unofficial capital of traditional Irish music and dance. Music sessions- informal, often unplanned meet-ups of random musicians- happen every evening in the area. Though they often look like groups of musicians huddled together, very informally, locals love when Americans show interest, so bring your fiddle, bodhrán (Irish drum), or tin whistle and join in.

Piper’s Corner Pub, Dublin

This place is the real deal, as Gaelic is actually spoken here. The pints and tunes are always flowing. Uillean pipers (Irish version of the bagpipes) use this as a home base. ■