Forma issue 18

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HITO APPRENTICE BOOTCAMP Industry training for barbering, beauty and hairdressing


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elcome back to 2015. I hope the first few months of the year have been successful for you.

2014 ended on a high note. We had a huge number of people get qualified in 2014, including 320 people who gained their National Certificate in Hairdressing. It was also wonderful to see people engaging in our advanced qualifications, with several Advanced Cutting and Business trainees qualifying. Congratulations to all those who qualified in 2014. Here’s to even more qualifications in 2015. We’ve been busy here at HITO this quarter. We kicked off the year with HITO Apprentice Boot Camp, a three-day event for our Regional Apprentice of the Year winners from 2014. This is the second year running Boot Camp, and it was a huge success. The seven Regional Apprentice of the Year winners came away with the skills and inspiration they needed to start a fantastic career in hair. For two of our Apprentice of the Year winners, January and February were jam-packed. As well as Boot Camp, Nadine Gratton and Jenny Eastwood attended three days of WorldSkills training in January. They worked alongside Ulrica Hansson, Niq James, and Richard King to bring their skills up to scratch for the WorldSkills Oceania competition in April. After Oceania, one of these girls will be picked represent New Zealand at WorldSkills International in Brazil. Check out page 34 for more on their journey, and make sure to watch out for more news from WorldSkills Oceania in the July issue of Forma. We also had some fantastic news from NZQA. After years of hard work, the barbering qualifications were approved and registered with NZQA. We now have a Level 3 and Level 4 barbering qualification. Thank you to the review group who worked so hard on these qualifications. HITO also celebrated success at the INDUSTRY event in March. For the first time, HITO sponsored the INDUSTRY Educator of the Year Award. Congratulations to Mana Dave, who took away the award. It’s fantastic to see quality education celebrated throughout our industry. This issue our contributors provide valuable advice on topics ranging from the importance of apprenticeships to how to maintain a professional boundary with clients while still providing a quality service. We’ve recently welcomed a whole new group of contributors to Forma, especially in the beauty sector, and we can’t wait to see what they have to offer.

ERICA CUMMING, HITO CEO

In other exciting beauty news, HITO signed on our first beauty apprentice at the end of 2014. HITO only recently launched our beauty apprenticeship programme, and Renee will be our first apprentice. She’s been speeding through the qualification, and we’re excited to see her progress. You can meet her and hear about her experiences in this issue of Forma. We’re looking forward to another year of exciting events, new developments in the industry, supporting employers and helping hairdressers, barbers, and beauty practitioners across New Zealand get qualified. Here’s to a wonderful 2015.


Boot Camp inspires and educates A weekend spent rubbing shoulders with some of New Zealand’s top stylists is something most apprentices can only dream of. This dream became a reality in February when our seven top apprentices went to Boot Camp.

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BOOT CAMP 2015

THE APPRENTICES AT BOOTCAMP

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Sarah and Courtney are just two of the seven HITO Regional Apprentice of the Year winners who took part:

n exclusive event for HITO's Apprentice of the Year regional winners, Boot Camp is all about giving these apprentices the chance to develop successful careers and become ambassadors for the hairdressing industry. For the second year in a row, internationally renowned hair stylist Mana Dave (recently awarded INDUSTRY Educator of the Year 2015 and INDUSTRY NZ Hairdresser of the Year 2015) hosted this exciting event.

• Kevin Price (Rodney Wayne Albany, Auckland) – Northern Regional Winner. • Trent Fleet (Bettjemans, Auckland) – Auckland Regional Winner. • Jenny Eastwood (Morph Hair Studio, Hamilton) – Midland Regional Winner.

The jam-packed agenda included a photographic workshop with renowned stylist and photographer Jock Robson (dharma, Auckland), an editorial styling session with INDUSTRY NZ Hairdresser of the Year 2014 Michael Beel (Buoy, Wellington), and a creative session with award-winning stylist Karina Gollins (Karina Grace Hairdressing, New Plymouth). As well as hairdressing skills, Boot Camp included training in networking, public speaking, and how to use social media effectively.

• Courtney Jackson (Be Ba Bo Hair Studio, New Plymouth) – Mid-Central Regional Winner and HITO Apprentice of the Year runner-up. • Sarah Smith (Synergy Hairdressing, Lower Hutt) – Central Regional Winner. • Nadine Gratton (Ursula Harris Hair Design, Nelson) – Northern South Regional Winner and HITO Apprentice of the Year 2014.

The apprentices say they left Boot Camp feeling inspired, confident and motivated to move forward in their careers.

• Rachel Patarana (Fred and Gingers, Invercargill) – Southern South Regional Winner.

“It was so inspirational, I feel very lucky to have had the opportunity to attend. It was exciting to meet and learn from so many well-known stylists. I also enjoyed spending time with the other Apprentice of the Year winners; they are all amazing.” said Sarah Smith (Synergy Hairdressing, Wellington).

HITO Apprentice of the Year is a prestigious annual award. Over 60 people from around New Zealand applied in 2014. Each of these winners demonstrated hard work, dedication and commitment during their apprenticeship.

“I have been so inspired and motivated, and I will definitely put lots of these skills into play!” said Courtney Jackson, echoing Sarah’s comments.

WHAT HAPPENED AT BOOT CAMP? Each day was full of inspiration, education and, of course, lots of fun. Each session was specifically designed to help to build a well-rounded hairdressing career. >> Read on to learn more.

DAY ONE After travelling to Auckland, the apprentices met at their apartment accommodation. The first evening of Boot Camp was all about getting to know each other a bit better and getting prepared for the days to come. There was dinner and some time to think about expectations.

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SARAH SMITH

FREELANCE MAKEUP ARTIST ABBIE GARDINER

HITO CEO ERICA CUMMING

MICHAEL BEEL DEMONSTRATING HOW TO ACHIEVE AN EDITORIAL STYLE

HITO APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR RUNNER-UP AND MID-CENTRAL APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR COURTNEY JACKSON (BE BA BO HAIR STUDIO, NEW PLYMOUTH)

THE APPRENTICES WITH KARINA GOLLINS

SOUTHERN SOUTH APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR RACHAEL PATARANA (FRED & GINGERS, INVERCARGILL)

THE APPRENTICES WITH MANA DAVE AND ERICA CUMMING MIDLAND APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR JENNY EASTWOOD (MORPH HAIR STUDIO, HAMILTON)

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BOOT CAMP 2015

DAY TWO

minute speech about their career so far and their goals for the future. The speeches were to be delivered later that day.

Excitement was high the next morning as the group got ready and headed down to the L’Oréal Academy. Once there, everyone got a goody bag (special thanks to L’Oréal for adding a few treats to these bags!) Erica Cumming, HITO CEO, and Mana welcomed the group, with Mana sharing some of his story to kick things off.

Next on the agenda was a practical session with awardwinning stylist Karina Gollins (Karina Grace Hairdressing, Palmerston North). First up, Karina shared her story with the group, detailing her competition experience and how she got to where she is today. She then took them through a storyboard exercise, where everyone created their own collage (from magazine cut-outs) showing the moment they fell in love with hairdressing. Storyboarding is a brainstorming exercise that helps with planning or finding inspiration. She then showed the group how to take a concept through to a live model. Karina brought her Wella Trend Vision model along with her in order to demonstrate this section.

Soon it was time for the first guest of the day to arrive – previous Apprentice of the Year winner Laura Williams (Jan Waite Hairdressing, Auckland). After attending Boot Camp herself last year, it was inspirational to see Laura stand in front of the group to lead a session. She spoke about her journey after winning Apprentice of the Year 2013 and shared some of the wisdom she has gained in her career so far. The most important thing to remember, she said, is “preparation is key”.

After lunch, the apprentices had some time set aside to work on their speeches. There was some nervousness in the air as they put their speeches together.

Then it was time for the first practical session of the day led by INDUSTRY NZ Hairdresser of the Year 2014 Michael Beel (Buoy, Wellington). Michael hosted an editorial styling workshop that the apprentices loved. He showed them three essential things needed for working backstage: the perfect ponytail, the perfect glamour wave set, and how to wig wrap.

Next Mana Dave led the group in a social media session, looking at how to use social media platforms effectively to build your brand. Mana discussed practical aspects including when to post, what to post, what platforms to use and how to use hashtags.

In the afternoon, the group moved on to makeup and styling with freelance MAC Artist Abbie Gardiner. Hairstylists often end up doing their model’s makeup for photo shoots and competitions, especially when stylists are starting out in their careers, so the tips and tricks learned in this session will come in handy. Everyone had their phones at the ready to take step-by-step pictures when Abbie demonstrated a beautiful look on her model.

Finally, it was time for the last session of the day – the speeches! There was a definite feeling of apprehension in the air, but despite their worries, each apprentice delivered an exceptional speech. Public speaking coach Sharon was very impressed, giving valuable feedback and giving each person one thing to improve. It had already been a big day, but it wasn’t over yet. The evening event was a networking dinner at Britomart restaurant Orleans. This dinner was a planned, practical opportunity for individuals to step out of their comfort zone, meet new people and “work the room”. A special group of guests also attended the dinner, including Gary Marshall (L’Oréal), award winning stylist Natasha Boustridge, and up-and-coming stylist Bethany-Paige Woods (Vada Hair Salon).

DAY THREE First thing on the agenda was a revive yoga class then the group met back at the L’Oréal Academy. The first session was one the apprentices were most nervous about – public speaking. As a group of influential apprentices and stylists, they will inevitably have to deliver speeches and presentations in the future. This session was included to help build confidence. Public speaking coach Sharon van Gulik held a theory-based session on how to write and deliver a great speech. Then the group got on with writing their own five

“The biggest thing I learned from the networking session was how important it is to make myself open and approachable in those situations,” said Nadine Gratton (Ursula Harris, Nelson).

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PHOTOGRAPHIC SESSION

NORTHERN APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR KEVIN PRICE (RODNEY WAYNE ALBANY, AUCKLAND)

SHARON VAN GULIK SHARING PUBLIC SPEAKING TIPS

APPRENTICES OBSERVE THE MAKE-UP SESSION

AUCKLAND APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR TRENT FLEET (BETTJEMANS, AUCKLAND)

BREAKFAST WITH THE APPRENTICES

CENTRAL APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR SARAH SMITH (SYNERGY, LOWER HUTT)

OVERALL HITO APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR WINNER NADINE GRATTON (URSULA HARRIS HAIR DESIGN, NELSON)

DAY FOUR

models and makeup artists. The group enjoyed this session that gave them a taste of what it’s like to work on a professional photo shoot. Check out the beautiful work they produced in the editorial spread on page 10.

On the final day of Boot Camp, the apprentices spent their last morning having a healthy, organic breakfast with Mana Dave and Erica Cumming. They took time to recap on what had taken place and what was going to happen on the last day. They also debriefed on the networking dinner the night before, sharing what had gone well and what they could do differently. One piece of advice everyone agreed was ‘don’t get stuck in a corner’. Sitting in a corner makes it difficult to get out and network with everyone.

Finally, in the last session, Erica and Mana summarised the event, reviewed what they have learned, what they will take away and what they are planning to do with it. Then it was time for farewells as the apprentices boarded planes and buses back to their hometowns. It was a busy, exciting and inspirational time, and we’re so glad we could spend it with these talented people. We can’t wait to see what’s in store for them as they continue to make the most of every opportunity that comes their way.

After breakfast was an exciting photographic workshop with renowned NZ stylist and business owner Jock Robson (dharma, Auckland). Jock took the group through a total concept look from start to finish, complete with professional

Watch out New Zealand and the world!

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BOOT CAMP 2015

more about

MANA DAVE

the Boot Camp presenters

Mana Dave is an internationally renowned platform stylist. He has a myriad of awards to his name including • New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year (2008, 2010, 2012) • Trend Vision Winner (2012) • Gold Colour Award (2009, 2010) • NZ Hairdressing Awards Gold (2013)

Amazing presenters hosted each Boot Camp session and shared their skills and experience. Thank you to this group of people who so openly shared their skills, knowledge and commitment.

• INDUSTRY Trainer of the Year (2014) • INDUSTRY Educator of the Year (2015) • INDSUTRY NZ Hairdresser of the Year (2015) He owns successful Auckland salon BLAZE and is passionate about training the next generation of stylists in New Zealand.

MICHAEL BEEL

KARINA GOLLINS

Michael is one of NZ’s most sought after platform hairdressers. As the Creative Director at Buoy Hairdressing (Wellington) he has travelled throughout Asia, India, Australia and NZ, mentoring and educating fellow stylists. He has worked on local fashion weeks for designers including WORLD, and international fashion weeks with designers such as Alexandra Owen in New York. His awards and achievements include:

Karina is a talented stylist known for her excellent competition work. Her awards and achievements include: • Oceanic Hairdressing Masters Award (2013) • Winning Gold in the Photo Vision Young Talent Category at the Wella International Trend Vision Awards. Karina also operates a successful salon in Palmerston North called Karina Grace Hairdressing.

• L'Oréal Colour Trophy (2014) • INDUSTRY NZ Hairdresser of the Year (2014) • INDUSTRY Men's Hairdresser of the Year (2015) • Hair Expo NZ Hairdresser of the Year Finalist (2007, 2009, 2010) • NZ Trend Vision Finalist (2011, 2014).

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JOCK ROBSON

LAURA WILLIAMS

Along with his wife Sara, Jock co-owns acclaimed Auckland salon's dharma. They assist in industry growth, running the Protege Competition, the New Zealand Hairdressing Awards and Industry, New Zealand's premiere hairdressing event which includes mentoring the sought after Industry Creative Team.

In 2013, Laura was named HITO’s Apprentice of the Year winner. She has recently finished her apprenticeship and is working as a qualified stylist at Jan Waite Hairdressing (Auckland). As part of the L’Oréal Artistic Team, Laura has been able to work on NZ designers look books and New Zealand Fashion Week shows. Laura has also done some editorial work including a photo shoot with REMIX Magazine.

As well as developing a salon team renowned for international and national competition, education and show successes, Jock and Sara have regularly worked international Fashion Weeks for several years, claiming this is where they gain the most personal growth.

ABBIE GARDINER

SHARON VAN GULIK

Abbie is a freelance makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics. She has a history of working alongside hairdressers in photo shoots and competitions. Recently she travelled to Monaco with stylist Chinney Yeap for the 2014 International Trend Vision Awards. Chinney won the Bronze in this highly respected competition. Abbie also has experience as a tutor in makeup artistry and has trained many successful artists.

Sharon has over 25 years’ experience driving strategic growth, reputation, brand experience, marketing and public relations for leading corporate, not-for-profit, FMCG, government and educational organisations. She is an accomplished public speaker and has successfully trained many people in this skill. Sharon is also a member of the HITO Board.

THE NEXT BOOT CAMP Do you want to be part of next years Boot Camp? All you need to do is enter HITO Apprentice of the Year. If you win your regional award, then you will be attending in 2016.

this is what the judges will be looking for in your application. Applications for the HITO Awards are available from www.industryawards.co.nz.

In the meantime, continue to work hard and dedicate yourself to excellence in all areas of your apprenticeship;

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BOOT CAMP 2015

take a look At some of the fantastic shots created by the HITO Boot Camp attendees in their session with Jock Robson

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PHOTOGRAPHER: Jock Robson MODEL/S: Holly Morris, Maria K and Brianna Butler-Gallie @ Red Eleven HAIR: 2014 HITO Apprentice of the Year winners MAKEUP: Chloe Waaka and Azara Sahib for Cut Above Academy PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: Kaleb Pritchard

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BOOT CAMP 2015

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THE APPRENTICE EQUATION Hairdressing guru, Lyndsay Loveridge, shares her expertise. An apprentice is an important asset for any hair business. They can assist senior staff and bring youth and vitality to your business. But many salons refuse to hire them, often because they don’t understand what an apprentice can do for them. I want to clear up some misconceptions around apprentices, and let you know once and for all why you should hire an apprentice. I’ll also give some advice on how to be a top employer, and make sure you only attract the best apprentices (and staff at all levels).

WHY SHOULD YOU HIRE AN APPRENTICE? Many people have some misconceptions about apprentices. It’s time to clear those up, and give the facts on why an apprentice is such a fantastic investment. Below is what you can expect from an apprentice, and some tips on how to fit them into your salon.

FACT: TWO ARE BETTER THAN ONE Salons with a good mix of experience and new talent are the best salons. Everyone supports each other to mould the team into a vibrant, dynamic, high-performing organisation with a real sense of worth. The more people you have to do this, the better.

FICTION: I DON’T HAVE THE TIME FOR AN APPRENTICE There is always time to invest in your staff, especially an apprentice. No one person can be all things to any business especially if you are a hairdresser and an employer. An apprentice can act as a support person – the investment is well worth it.

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IT'S CALLED DELEGATION

ACTIVITY

Why do something when a team member can and would willingly take the responsibility?

Take the time to review your business and plan who will be responsible for each task.

One of the best exercises any employer can do is to step back from their business and re-evaluate:

1. Let’s begin with an A4 table.

• What have I got?

2. Column 1 is wide so that you can write (vertically) all the things you as the employer currently do.

• What do I want?

3. Put your name at the top of column 2.

• What do I need to do?

4. Add all the tasks your team members do to column 1.

The overriding answer to this last question should be: free myself up to do what only I can do and delegate the rest. This will give you time to focus on other things – like training an apprentice. In turn, once you’ve trained that apprentice, they will be able to take on more tasks, freeing other staff up for other tasks, and help everyone to achieve more overall.

5. Write their names across the top of the page next to yours.

The outcome of this exercise is a fully functioning team who take pride in their work. And as the employer you are putting into place a plan that will free you up to have a work/life balance – and, I suspect, make you a nicer person to be around.

8. Are there any tasks you are currently doing that could be done by another team member?

FACTS

FICTION

>> WHAT YOU PUT IN IS WHAT YOU GET OUT

>> IT IS REASONABLE TO EXPECT YOUR APPRENTICES TO STAY AT LEAST SIX YEARS

6. Look at each task. Put a tick in the column of each person who performs that task. 7. Now take a look at the tasks you do, and the tasks your team currently do.

9. Do some team members have gaps that you could fill with new tasks (like training an apprentice)?

Get to know your apprentice; let them know that you are prepared to invest time and opportunity in their career. Communicate openly and regularly one on one with them. While they are learning and being given opportunities for plenty of hands-on work, they will have their reasons for wanting to stay the distance. If you build mutual respect, they will want to stay and pay you back for your investment in them.

Rubbish! Youth today is in a hurry to experience all that life has to offer and if it is all work and no play you will lose them. The solution is to spend the time on their training, to get them earning in the salon, excite them with client opportunities and teach them all the skills they need to be successful. Then whatever time they spend with you is valuable.

>> LEARN TO LET STAFF GO WITH GOOD GRACE

>> EVERYONE WANTS THE BOSS/THE STAR TO DO THEIR HAIR

If apprentices do leave, let them go gracefully. If you’ve made the most of their time with you, it will all work out. And as a bonus you’ll earn the reputation of being a fabulous boss, which will make other fantastic apprentices want to work for you.

Not true. Clients would far rather have an uninterrupted service during which you engaged with them fully, no matter whether it’s the newest apprentice or the most experienced senior doing their hair.

>> THERE IS MORE TO BUSINESS THAN MAKING MONEY

>> APPRENTICES DON’T STAY. THEREFORE, IT ISN’T WORTH THE EFFORT

True business leaders seek to make a difference. They see their role as one of mentor and trainer. They wish to be remembered for being a valued part of each employee’s life journey – be their stay short or long.

That’s the same as saying the species of our world eventually die and become extinct. Let’s turn this around and say if we don’t invest in and protect the next generation of hairdressers we as an industry might well fade and no longer exist. The choice is yours! Pay it forward or face extinction?

>> YOUTH BREATHES VITALITY AND OPENS THE DOOR TO CREATIVITY If it wasn’t true, then why is the new kid/salon on the block doing so well?

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THE APPRENTICE EQUATION

WHY WOULD AN APPRENTICE WORK FOR YOU? There are two parts to every employment equation. Now you know what a good investment an apprentice can be, it’s time to think about the other side of the equation – why would an apprentice want to work for you? Research shows that employers believe the top 6 things (in no particular order) an employee wants from them are:

Now let’s see how very different the top 10 reasons (in no particular order) employees choose to continue to work for a performing employer are. Employees want:

a decent wage

the employer/ management listen, care & deliver

a workplace with a strong progressive reputation

a 40 hour working week

a team who relate openly with one another and welcome newbies

a mix of professionalism and fun

job stability

a mentor program for trainees and new staff

an opportunity for growth and responsibility

job satisfaction

policies and procedures that clearly spell out what standards are expected

a progressive stance on wages and incentives

opportunity to grow

an extraordinary in-house training program, tailor-made for each and every staff member

incentive schemes to maximise earning growth

flexible work hours that meet not only the salon's needs but factor in a work/ life balance for each employee

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Employees want to be happy and satisfied, and when they don’t get that they will often leave. What some managers don’t realize is that people want to do good work. Create a happy, positive work environment and people are naturally motivated. Even better: They motivate themselves and each other.


EMPLOYER FACT AND FICTION Many employers have the wrong idea about what makes a fantastic employer. If you want to get the most out of you, your staff, and your business, here are some key facts you need to know.

FACTS

FICTION

"LIKE ATTRACTS LIKE"

CERTIFICATES ON THE WALL SAY IT ALL

How you and your staff behave affects the clients you get. They say you have 6 seconds to make a first impression – make sure this is a good one and you’ll get the best clients. You spend all day working with your clients – for the sake of your business and your staff you should make sure they’re good ones.

Getting those certificates is important, but you have to live up to them, or they mean nothing. Take every opportunity to show that you’re the best – the best boss, the best hairdresser.

WHAT YOU’VE ACHIEVED SO FAR PROVES HOW SUCCESSFUL YOU ARE

THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE IS MUCH MORE THAN ONLY THE OUTCOME OF THEIR HAIR

No matter what you’ve achieved in the past, it’s the present that’s important to your clients, staff, and peers. They want to know what you can do for them now.

It’s not just about the hair, it’s the whole experience. Remember, it’s all about the client – do a great job on their hair, but also make sure to listen and engage, and provide top quality customer service.

SPEAKING ILL OF YOUR OPPOSITION IS HOW IT IS IN THIS COMPETITIVE WORLD Rubbish – this only creates unrest within your team. Think about it – trainees especially socialise with other hairdressers...you could be talking about their best friend.

RESULTS AND MEETING MY EXPECTATIONS, KEEP ME COMING BACK TIME AFTER TIME. Price might get my attention initially, but I will remember a great job long after the price is forgotten!

THE BOSS IS ALWAYS RIGHT! Wrong – employees want to be valued, heard and be a part of the success of the business. Take your employees ideas and opinions into account – they’ve probably got some exciting new perspectives.

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THE APPRENTICE EQUATION

HEAR FROM REAL EMPLOYERS Why not take some advice from some of New Zealand’s top salons? I asked some of NZ’s extraordinary employers to share with you insights into their management style and the success of their high performing teams. Some chose to answer my questions directly, while others turned to their teams for input.

>> EMPLOYER 1:

>> EMPLOYER 3:

What my staff say they liked most about my management style:

Staff comment: • Inspirational.

• Fairness, treating staff the way I would want to be treated.

• Fair, understanding, supportive, generous and forgiving. • Trusts, believes in and backs up the team in all situations.

• Training, I encourage, support and provide it for all staff including myself. Never stop learning!

• Encourages, facilitates and funds professional development – both in-salon and externally.

• Get to know your staff and what makes them tick. This occurs in our many team bonding sessions.

• Encourages stylists and apprentices to achieve by giving them the confidence to ‘have a go’ and enter industry comps.

• Be active within the industry. My involvement in association and competition judging has opened many doors for myself and my staff. This encourages them to see that our industry has so many opportunities and prevents staff leaving.

• Supportive of individual goals and dreams. • Flexible and sees situations from every viewpoint. • Operates a structure, but not a hierarchy. • Believes in herself and in her team.

>> EMPLOYER 2:

• Larger than life, fun-loving and infectious energy, positivity and laughter.

Key attributes for our high performing team: • Clear vision – values, purpose and mission.

• Forward-thinking and pro-active with progressing her business.

• A common goal that our entire team are aligned with.

• Our employer creates and offers every opportunity for all apprentices and stylists to be the best that they can be.

• Clearly defined roles and tasks. • Good technical training plan in place. • Robust accountability and feedback loops. • Good communication – open, honest and transparent.

>> EMPLOYER 4:

• Our team celebrates and acknowledges success .

• Communication. We have one on one meetings every week to talk about goals and forward planning. I make sure to listen to them.

• We ensure the key attributes for a high performing team are clearly communicated and made to contribute to our day-to-day operation.

• Give them responsibilities/tasks. This builds self-esteem and makes them feel they’re making an important contribution to the running of the salon.

• Our training process, meetings and benchmarking enables me to track the satisfaction of each team member.

• Letting them have a voice at meetings, asking their opinion, listening to their ideas.

• Being a small salon, I am able to spend time with team members to share personal insights and concerns.

• Reward and thank them and acknowledge their successes at staff meetings. • Target their training based on goals and challenges they face.

THE CHALLENGE Growth comes from being progressive and making change to get the results. Recognise that the future, of not only your business, but also this wonderful industry of ours can only prosper if we accept our future belongs to the next generation. So step up and apprentice, it is absolutely worth the investment of your time and skill.

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Register now KITOMBA NZARH BUSINESS AWARDS New Zealand Salon of the Year Grand Salon of the Year Salon of the Year Employer of Choice Excellence in Marketing Fastest Growing Salon Sustainable Salon Business Stylist of the Year Best Salon Design Best New Entrant

HITO ANNUAL AWARDS HITO Photo Challenge Regional Apprentice of the Year Training Salon of the Year Tutor of the Year Trainer of the Year Jasmine McBeth Memorial Scholarship Apprentice of the Year See Your Work in Print Entrant of the Year

WWW.INDUSTRYAWARDS.CO.NZ

NEW ZEALAND ASSOCIATION OF REGISTERED HAIRDRESSERS Inc.


“People who train their own staff do much better in this business. Their stylists have better relationships with clients and their salons are more successful.” PHILLIP MILLAR

THE FUTURE OF OUR INDUSTRY IS AT STAKE by Malcolm Gibbons.

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“Having apprentices is a win-win as it helps me stay in touch and keep my skills where they need to be to stay on top of my game. Apprentices are sponges for information and they help ensure I am on my game too.” CHERYL SCHOFIELD

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s you may be aware, I have the opportunity to travel the length and breadth of New Zealand in my role as a Salon Specialist Business Coach and Mentor. I also get to communicate with industry stakeholders and participants on a daily basis.

Over 80% of the time I hear answers like these: • “We don’t have any, never really thought about it” • “We just don’t take on apprentices” • “Who needs the headache of the young ones' attitudes these days”

Having been involved in many different capacities within the hair and beauty industry over the past 30 odd years (I know, seriously that long!) I feel I am qualified enough to voice an opinion or two on what I see and hear today.

• “We’d rather get them after they’ve qualified” • “We can’t afford an apprentice”

I need to let you know that this is just my opinion and is not driven by any political, social or scientific agenda. I’m an industry participant who is noticing a disturbing trend that has the potential to de-skill, de-value and de-rail an industry that I’m proud to be a student and leader in.

• “They’re a drain on resources”

So just what is it I’ve been hearing that’s disturbing me so much that I feel I need to put pen to paper (or finger to keyboard as the case may be)?

Now, I’m not known for laying down and saying nothing and this time is no exception.

• “Who can afford one?” • “We’d rather get them after someone else trains them”… the list goes on.

For heaven’s sake! Just where the heck do you think you’re going to get that well-grounded, salon trained, hands-on experienced, confident, and competent, qualified stylist from if you don’t start them as apprentices to be trained from the bottom up – just like you probably were?

Well, it’s the comments I have been hearing from salon owners regarding employment, and more particularly employing apprentices. Having met heaps (and I mean heaps) of salon owners over the years, I often ask the question – “what keeps you awake at night regarding your business”? And the most common answer by far is “staff!” More often than not it’s specifically “finding good qualified seniors”.

To adapt a phrase my mother used to use about money: “They (apprentices) don’t just grow on trees you know!” I’m absolutely astounded that salons who have the ability, the knowledge, and the experience to pass on to an apprentice

So on goes a discussion around this. I ask “do you have any apprentices?” and this is the disturbing bit of this phenomenon.

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THE FUTURE OF OUR INDUSTRY IS AT STAKE

“I always have up and coming apprentices. People do move on, and people do retire, but by taking on a new person every two years we are overcoming the problem of not having enough skilled people. We need up and coming hairdressers with high skills. To get that, we need to put in the right training, it is vital for my business and vital to the industry.” CARLEIGH FRISBY

(after all that’s the path most salon owners took when first starting out) can’t see that unless you do something and participate in your industry through training new hairdressers there won’t be any quality hairdressers to hire at all. You’ll be lucky to find someone who’s been through the year of sweeping the floor and making tea and rinsing perms and colours off, just to understand that hairdressing is a career that needs to be developed and nurtured… someone who can’t wait to get their hands on dolly head to create their first “look”. Someone who interacts with your clients daily, slowly learning the art of conversation and communication, gaining confidence and being encouraged by understanding clients. What about the rest of the team who nurture and cajole them giving them confidence that they are going well and doing it right – even if it’s not perfect. And not to mention what you get – you get the privilege of watching a flower bud slowly opening up and growing to full bloom as an active and contributing member of the salon and society. You had a huge part in that development and your sense of pride and admiration for what your apprentice has become is part of your reward. And just how do you think

you got to where you are today without someone giving you the chance, someone urging and encouraging you along the way, being supportive when needed, being tough when needed through all that formative training? C’mon guys think about the future of your industry. Think about 10 – 20 years from now and ask yourself – will there be enough qualified and salon experienced staff around to take the industry over when you retire? Or will it just be a case of a whole lot of people who can cut hair working out of back bedrooms, kitchens and little shops on the street pumping out mediocre haircuts giving mediocre service, giving back at best “mediocre” to the community and world we live in? I for one am getting tired and a little distressed at the state of attitude displayed by salon owners not being fully (or even partially) engaged in the industry that has provided them with their lifestyle and career. Through this article I hope that I’ve stirred an inner pang of guilt or frustration in you that that makes you think, and think hard, about the future of hairdressing in New Zealand.

“Training is an investment in the future, for both the salon and the individual. You need to invest in your team and it will pay off in the long term. The less time I’m on the floor looking after my own clientele the more profitable my salon has become.” DIANA BEAUFORT

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• You can ‘grow your own’ senior stylists just the way you want them.

If I’ve made you feel guilty then good, even better if I’ve got you asking the question: “how can I change things”? And if you’ve agreed with my sentiments and are deciding that an apprentice is probably a good thing to do for your business, then that’s fantastic.

• Helps your salon grow Am I arguing for or against certain types of government led apprenticeships or private training enterprises – no I’m not. What I’m saying is that if you don’t start passing on your knowledge and experience to our young through some form of apprenticeship, then our industry will fall by the wayside and we’ll be left with the hollow shell of what we will say was once a proud profession.

To help you see just what value an apprentice can add to your business I’ve pinched a list from HITO website. • Clients receive consistent and high-quality service • It’s cost effective as apprentices can ‘free up’ senior stylists

I’d be keen to hear what you think and welcome your comments.

• Better staff retention and more motivated staff

MALCOLM GIBBONS LOVES HELPING SALON OWNERS GROW THEIR BUSINESSES AND HAS AN OUTSTANDINGLY UNCOMPLICATED WAY OF DOING JUST THAT. VISIT WWW.SALONBUSINESSCOACH.COM TO LEARN HOW TO GET MORE PROFIT WITH LESS WORK!

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THE BOOT CAMP ATTENDEES AT THE L'OREAL ACADEMY IN 2014

WENDY MAXWELL

L'ORÉAL SUPPORTS INDUSTRY TRAINING L’Oréal’s Wendy Maxwell talks about their support of HITO and industry training.

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’Oréal might be a familiar name to anyone who has followed HITO events over the last year. In 2014, L’Oréal showed their commitment to industry training through supporting several of HITO’s projects. We spoke with Wendy Maxwell, Education and Development Manager at L’Oréal, about why L’Oréal chose to support HITO and industry training.

Camp is an honour. Boot Camp is an awesome way for these apprentices to grow and see all the possibilities our industry can provide” says Wendy. In March 2014, L’Oréal was also involved with the HITO AGM. Gary Marshall, General Manager of L’Oréal’s professional products division, spoke with the AGM attendees about the L’Oréal Hair Report. L’Oréal compiled the hair report to highlight the current success of the industry and provide insights on how to maintain that success.

L’Oréal’s 2014 support of HITO began with the first HITO Apprentice Boot Camp in February 2014. L’Oréal provided the venue for Boot Camp – the fantastic L’Oréal Academy in central Auckland. One of L’Oréal’s staff, Kristin Borely, also led a session on social media use at Boot Camp. With Kristin’s help, that presentation was turned into an article for Forma so that everyone could benefit. L’Oréal continued to support Boot Camp in 2015, providing the L’Oréal Academy as a venue again.

The report showed the industry in a positive light, with customers spending more and prioritising their hair, and a larger number of apprentices gaining their qualification. “L’Oréal are a big believer in apprenticeship training. Apprenticeship offers real skills, knowledge, experience, and support in the salon every day. HITO offers internationally

“Education is the backbone of L’Oréal. To have the opportunity to support the future leaders of our industry through Boot

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DIONNE HARDWICK, WINNER OF THE TRAINER OF THE YEAR AWARD SPONSORED BY L'OREAL IN 2014

L'OREAL'S GARY MARSHALL SPEAKS AT THE 2014 HITO AGM

JENNY EASTWOOD AND JACQUI MALCOLM AT NZ FASHION WEEK

KRISTIN BORELY FROM L'OREAL LEADS A SOCIAL MEDIA SESSION AT BOOT CAMP 2014

"Education is the key to creating successful salons. We are here to support them so our industry can grow." WENDY MAXWELL – L'ORÉAL

recognised qualifications that support the many career paths available in our industry. Apprenticeships provide the skills needed to be successful in a real life salon environment that teaches life and communication skills too” says Wendy.

training seminars. Through learning more, Dionne can then pass on her learning to her trainees. “Acknowledging the best in our industry encourages others to excel in their skills,” Wendy says. “This way the industry stays modern and is constantly pushing its limits”.

“Without continued training our industry won’t be commercially relevant. Without qualified staff, the hairdressing industry will be weaker, less relevant, vibrant, and unable to compete internationally. Education is part of our DNA. At L’Oréal, we support education and qualifications. Education is the key to making sure our industry stays strong and healthy”.

L’Oréal also gave some of our apprentices the chance to join the L’Oréal team backstage at NZ Fashion Week. The apprentices that attended got to work with the team on the Celine Rita, COOP, and Trish Peng shows. They got the chance to experience the backstage environment and hone both their technical and time management skills.

It is no surprise, then, that L’Oréal agreed to support HITO’s Annual Awards in November 2014. L’Oréal sponsored our HITO Trainer of the Year Award in 2014. This award goes to a trainer who shows an outstanding commitment to apprenticeship training. Dionne Hardwick, HITO Trainer of the Year 2014, received a L’Oréal product pack and vouchers for L’Oréal

For L’Oréal, supporting industry training is an easy decision. Education is part of their ethos, and, says Wendy, is the key to creating a successful industry. The more support they provide, the more our industry will thrive.

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RENEE PRICE

MEET THE FIRST BEAUTY APPRENTICE Renee Price is the first HITO beauty apprentice. We spoke with her and her trainer Charlotte at Reveal Beauty about how the apprenticeship is going so far.

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Beauty Services in Nail Technology (Level 3) and Beautician (Level 4).

n 2014, HITO introduced a trial beauty apprenticeship. The apprenticeship allows the apprentice to gain a beauty therapy qualification while they work in a beauty clinic or spa. They learn while they work, and they are a paid employee in the beauty business.

By the end of their qualification, the apprentice will be qualified to perform various waxing, make-up, facial, and nail services. They will also understand the theory behind these services and have a knowledge of nutrition and skin analysis. Trainees nearing the end of their apprenticeship will understand how a beauty business works and be able to train entry-level trainees.

Apprentices start with basic skills, such as customer service, and work their way up to more advanced beauty therapy skills. They will begin by helping a senior beauty therapist and eventually learn how to provide various services on their own.

There are plenty of advantages to doing an apprenticeship. Renee and Charlotte shared some of those advantages with us and caught us up on how Renee’s beauty apprenticeship is going.

A beauty apprenticeship takes two and a half years. At the end of that time, apprentices will have the National Certificate in

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MEET RENEE PRICE

MEET CHARLOTTE WENZLICK

>> HITO'S FIRST BEAUTY APPRENTICE

>> RENEE’S TRAINER AND OWNER OF REVEAL BEAUTY

“I’m loving my apprenticeship so far. The more I learn, the more I find to love about it” says Renee.

“Having an apprentice is a lot easier than we thought. Renee fits in well with the salon and is very helpful” Charlotte says.

Renee is speeding through her beauty apprenticeship. She works at Reveal Beauty for 30 hours each week, training with her trainer Charlotte on basic beauty skills. Since starting at Reveal at the end of 2014, Renee has learned about manicures, pedicures, eyelash tinting, and some massage. When we spoke to her, she’d just started learning about waxing.

Renee started shortly before the busy Christmas period, which Charlotte says worked out perfectly. Renee had the opportunity to learn a variety of administration and customer service tasks straight away, such as issuing vouchers, which she may not have learned at another time of year. Because she could do these tasks, the other beauty therapists were free to focus on client services during the busiest time of the year. They didn’t have to worry about answering the phones, issuing vouchers or greeting clients, taking a lot of stress off the senior therapists. It also means they can bring in more revenue by focussing on client services.

Renee had no prior experience in beauty therapy before she started her apprenticeship. But no experience is necessary before you start an apprenticeship. Apprentices learn about customer service, reception and merchandising. They can take responsibility for these tasks, leaving senior beauty therapists to focus on the treatments themselves.

The clients are also happy with Reveal’s new apprentice. They are supportive of her training, and they love having a new face around, Charlotte says. As a bonus, they also get extra or discount services from Renee. If a client is having another service, Charlotte may offer then a free arm and hand massage, for example, so Renee can practice her skills. This makes clients happy, makes money for the business, and allows Renee to learn with real clients.

Renee says working in the salon environment is a lot easier than she thought. Her trainer Charlotte is available to assist her and supervise her with each task, which allows her to learn quickly. Renee says learning in the salon environment is very helpful. She learns not only how each service works, but also how they work in the salon environment. An apprentice knows where all the tools are in the salon and how to interact with clients, for example, as well as the technical skills needed to perform each service.

Charlotte also enjoys knowing that her newest staff member’s skills will be up to scratch. “Many girls come out of beauty school and into salons not knowing many essential skills. They only know very basic skills and often have to be retrained in skills like Brazilian waxing. An apprentice trained in the salon from day one knows how to perform all services in a salon environment.”

“Learning in a salon environment makes such a difference. You learn how everything works in a real salon, and how to interact with real clients” says Renee. Another advantage of apprenticeship training is that apprentices earn a wage. An apprentice earns at least the training wage, which is 80% of the adult minimum wage. Although the employer can, of course, pay them more. It’s beneficial for the salon but also means the apprentice has an income from day one. Apprenticeship fees are also significantly cheaper – only $1500 for two and half years of study and no student debt, making training much more affordable. It also means apprentices graduate without a huge student loan to pay back for years after. Apprenticeship training is affordable and practical. It gives apprentices a real feel for working in the beauty industry.

“We also know how much we have to invest in training from day one. We know how much time an apprentice will take and what they will learn. Often, with beauty school students, we have to spend extra time and money retraining them – a waste of time for the student and the salon”. An apprentice also knows how their salon functions. They can go straight into offering services without having to be trained on salon systems or getting to know the clients (unlike a student from a school). This is a huge advantage for the salon that trains them. If a salon has someone apply who trained as an apprentice, that salon knows that the apprentice knows all the skills of a senior beauty therapist, and how to perform them in the workplace.

“Everything about my apprenticeship so far has been fantastic. I’d definitely recommend apprenticeship to other people interested in a career in beauty”.

“I would absolutely recommend beauty apprenticeship to other beauty businesses,” Charlotte says.

WANT TO KNOW MORE? CONTACT TANIA BERRYMAN ON 021 818 364 OR EMAIL BDEV@HITO.ORG.NZ FOR MORE INFORMATION ON BEAUTY APPRENTICESHIPS OR TO DISCUSS TAKING ON A BEAUTY APPRENTICE IN YOUR BUSINESS.

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barbering – motivation is key Peter Wells, the owner of Ali Baba's in Wanaka, shares his barbering expertise.

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"For me, barbering is about people. You provide a service for people. If you want that service to be the best it can be, ongoing learning to further develop your skills is the only way to get there."

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o matter where you are in your career, if you're an apprentice barber or qualified barber, you need motivation to further your skills. It’s true what they say: “you never stop learning”, especially in this industry, where fashions constantly change.

An apprentice can inject fresh blood into your barbershop and bring fresh new ideas. They can be a great way to meet others that are passionate about the barbering industry. You can connect with other barbershops with apprentices, for example. They can also inspire you to get more qualifications yourself.

But it’s not always easy to motivate yourself. You can feel stuck in a rut. What you need is a kick in the arse, because the only way to rectify it is to change what you are doing. Remember Einstein’s definition of insanity – doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

Teaching isn’t easy and can be frustrating at times. You can feel like you’re bashing your head against a brick wall, but when you see your apprentice “get it” it makes up for all the hard work. It’s when you are training an apprentice in a certain style or service that holes may show in your work. When explaining the details of what you’re doing, you want your instruction to be clear and precise. You do not want to do the apprentice a disservice by not being sure of something yourself, so use it as inspiration to improve your skills. HITO run workshops that you can attend, or maybe get another barber from out of town to come to your shop for a day to mentor – you and your apprentice can both watch and learn. Get involved, try to become the “go to” person in your industry. Then eventually, YOU will be the one who is asked to be a mentor.

APPRENTICES AND JUNIORS As an apprentice barber, you’re taught to watch a senior cutting. It’s a great way to learn. You can also watch “how to” DVD’s or YouTube videos to see how to perform a certain style or service. Some hair product companies even have tutorials on styling. If you feel you’re not getting the training you need, take responsibility for yourself and ask for help. Go seek out other barbers and ask them to show you a thing or two. Most barbers I know of would be more than willing to help. You could even ask your HITO Sales and Liaison Manager to help you set up these meetings. They may know who you could talk to or know about training days you could join. Remember you are young in this industry, and not everything happens overnight. Just keep trying.

I am always watching other barbers. I’m not looking for what we do the same; I’m looking for what they do differently. When I travel, I visit other barbershops, they are a great source of ideas both good AND bad. You get the client’s point of view on something you may be doing in your barbershop that could be improved.

QUALIFIED BARBERS

For me, barbering is about people. You provide a service for people. If you want that service to be the best it can be, ongoing learning to further develop your skills is the only way to get there.

If you’re a qualified barber or barbershop owner and you need motivation to up-skill yourself, I would suggest employing an apprentice.

WANT TO GET QUALIFIED AS A BARBER OR TAKE ON AN APPRENTICE? CALL HITO ON (04) 499 1180 OR EMAIL ENQUIRIES@HITO.ORG.NZ FOR MORE INFORMATION.

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a guide to –

beard shaping Maloney’s Barber Shop share their top tips and tricks for beard shaping.

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As you will have seen, in the media and on the street, beards are on the rise. They've moved from the hipster domain into the mainstream. Why?

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he influence of sports stars and celebrities plays a role. For some men, growing a beard signals a break from conformity, or from the grind of the daily shave. For others, it’s a sign of untamed masculinity or a badge of honour. It takes commitment to get through that itchy phase to sporting a fully-fledged beard.

Holiday time sees more guys growing a beard over summer. And now that facial hair is more acceptable in the workplace, more of them are confident to leave it on when they return to work. Growing a beard can be a way for clients with receding hair or shaved heads to enjoy the barber shop experience that they’ve missed. Whatever the reasons, bearded men are keen to find a barber they can trust to shape, trim, groom and advise on their beards. There tend to be three main types of bearded gents:

>> SHORT AND SHARP This client keeps his beard short and well groomed and will have it trimmed as often as he gets a haircut. He may invest in clippers but will probably still ask for advice on trimming and shaping. When working in tandem with a sharp masculine haircut, a short beard can have a striking effect. We’ll outline some specific techniques for short beards later on in the article.

>> HAPPY MEDIUM

>> LONG JOHN

This gent has been cultivating a beard for a few months and wants to keep growing, but it needs some shaping and trimming. He is usually happy to lose some length. You’ll need to hone your clipper over comb skills for this client, as a medium length beard is where the barber’s beard shaping techniques are most important. We’ve provided a step by step guide later in the article on how to work with the Happy Medium.

This client has a well-established beard. He has been growing it for more than six months and needs only very light trimming, plus some advice on beard products (oil and balm) and perhaps moustache products (wax). It might be the first time he’s let a stranger touch his beard, so you have to give them confidence that you know what you’re doing.

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A GUIDE TO BEARD SHAPING

THE PROCESS There are tips and tricks for each of our three bearded gents. But here are some basic steps all beard shaping has in common, using a client with a Happy Medium as a model.

This first step is always consultation.

2. Trim under the right side of the throat, up to the jawline/chin.

3. Now check with the client how it’s looking. Their feedback will determine the rest of the process For example, do they want it shorter?

Examine the client’s face shape and haircut, and establish what he wants to achieve. Always comb out the beard to see its natural direction and check for any gaps or discolouration, which can make it appear patchy. Once you’ve established the desired outcome and process (clipper and guard or clipper over comb), always proceed in the same order outlined in this article. This will help with overall shape and symmetry.

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1. Start shaping with the right cheek and move from the ear down to the chin. At the same time, brush or comb in the direction of the beard growth. This removes excess cut hair and keeps the area clean, making it easier to spot any fine pieces of hair you might have missed. Tip: cutting less off is better at first. Once you get the overall shape, you can easily take a bit more off.

4. Work on the left cheek from the ear down to the chin. Always check against the right side as a guideline for length. It helps if you stand behind your client during this step. You will be better able to judge the length this way.


5. Trim under the left side of the throat, up to the chin. Steps 4 and 5 are the same as steps 1 and 2, just on the opposite side of the face.

6. After you’ve trimmed both sides, make sure they match up. Lightly trim the chin and central jaw area. Move the face around and check that the beard is even from different angles. Once you and your client are happy with the length and shape, move on to the next step.

7. Shape the moustache. Start on the right side and then match the left side. Stand in front of your client, get him to look you in the eye and make sure the moustache is even.

8. Tidy the upper lip. Make sure the bottom of the moustache is even, and the hair isn’t sticking out over the lip.

9. Tidy up the outline of the beard. Make sure all the edges are even, and that you haven’t missed any patches or stray hairs.

10.The finished beard.

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A GUIDE TO BEARD SHAPING

TOP TRICKS + TIPS >> SHORT AND SHARP

>> GENERAL TIPS AND TRICKS

Trim a short beard using a regular clipper guard from 1-4, or a combination of these. As with all beards, leave the jawline and chin longest; the neck and throat can be tapered down to a shorter length (1 or 2). Clipper the moustache to a 1 or 2, then use neck trimmers to clear hair from the top lip. Gently take some of the hair off the cheek lines and create a clean line above the Adam’s apple.

• Patches. Some clients may have areas in their beards that are noticeably thinner than others. There are a few ways to hide these. You can comb other hair over the thinner areas, hiding them from view, or you can thin out the thicker areas to balance out the look of the beard. • Unrealistic client expectations. Some clients may have unrealistic expectations of how their beard can look. Their beard may be too sparse to achieve what they want, or the hair might only grow in one direction, making it harder to achieve the look they want. You need to advise them on what you can realistically achieve. For example, if their hair only grows downwards you can’t trim too much from the sides. If you do, they’ll end up looking like a wizard.

The purpose of a beard, however short, is to exaggerate the jawline and compliment the face shape. A short beard trim can be vigorous and should follow the shape of the face. Let your clipper guard do its work.

>> LONG JOHN To establish trust, it helps if you (or one of your team) have a beard; if not, have access to beard images online or in the shop. For a longer beard, start with a vigorous comb or brush, followed by a very light clipper over comb, and finish off with a beard oil. Advise your client that regular combing and a good beard oil are essential parts of maintaining longer facial hair and still looking presentable.

• Client comfort. There are a few tips to make sure your client is comfortable during the service. Remind your client to close his eyes while you trim cheeks and moustache to avoid getting hair flicked in his eyes. You should also take care when using neck trimmers to outline the beard or shape around the mouth – you don’t want to cut your client.

Beard oils are usually a blend of essential oils, similar to Argan Oil or Moroccan Oil but with more masculine scents such as Bay Rum, Cedar or Sandalwood. They add shine, detangle, maintain shape and enhance natural colour. We’re lucky to have several quality brands in New Zealand. Apply a few drops to your palms, rub together then apply vigorously to the beard and comb through. You can drop the oil into the client’s hands and get him to rub it in if this feels more comfortable for him.

• Keeping the face clean. Dust the client’s face with a neck brush regularly and blow excess hair away with a drier. Make sure to comb through the beard regularly as you shape it – this removes extra cut hair and helps find the natural growth pattern of the beard. • Have a beard. It helps if you can give your client proof of your skill with a beard. Having a beard is the easiest way to do this. If you can’t grow or don’t have a beard, make sure to have examples of your work around. Have pictures or colleagues that have beards that you’ve shaped for them.

INTERESTED IN LEARNING BARBERING? GIVE HITO A CALL TODAY ON (04) 499 1180 OR EMAIL ENQUIRIES@HITO.ORG.NZ.

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EMPLOYERS:

Get involved in WorldSkills 2015 WorldSkills Regional Competitions are coming soon – and you should get involved.

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2015 REGIONALS WILL BE HELD ON:

What is WorldSkills? WorldSkills is an international competition held every two years. Any apprentice or qualified person aged 22 or under can be involved in the international competition, and any apprentice no matter their age OR qualified person aged 22 or under can be involved in the regional and national competitions. The WorldSkills regional competitions are held every year. Competitors take part in three modules – Ladies Creative Cut and Colour, Men’s Fashion Cut and Colour, and Creative Hair by Night – Conversion – using mannequin heads to create the looks. All mannequin heads are provided on the day.

Auckland & Dunedin Monday 4 May Wellington & Christchurch Monday 11 May

The WorldSkills national competition is held bi-annually. Competitors are selected from the winners and other high scoring competitors from the regional competitions. The winner and runners-up from the national competition may have the opportunity to compete internationally. WorldSkills International is held every two years.

Why should your salon get involved? WorldSkills can: • Give every hairdresser in your salon the opportunity to improve their skills. WorldSkills requires lots of in-salon training, which anyone can help with. There are also plenty of opportunities to attend training sessions led by award-winning hairdressers. • Create a strong team environment where everyone gets involved in training and supporting the competitor. • Give your competitors valuable skills they can pass on to everyone in the salon. • Make your competitors more confident, better organised, and more productive. • Provide publicity for your salon and get your community involved – they can help with fundraising, training etc. • Provide the opportunity for extra training and growth for your staff. • Give the competitor an exciting new challenge and new goals to achieve. WorldSkills requires commitment, perseverance, and hard work from competitors and trainers alike. Competitors need the full support of their salon. But the rewards are well worth it for the competitors, their colleagues, and the salon they work in.

Hear from other employers who’ve been involved in WorldSkills.

Anne Millar, Headquarters Remuera “One of my apprentices, a Year One apprentice who had only been cutting for six weeks, took part in WorldSkills. She gained a huge amount of confidence, developed her blow waving/cutting skills, and improved her timing and her ability to take responsibility for achieving her goals. WorldSkills is a fantastic opportunity for the apprentice. The skills required to attempt WorldSkills create interest and excitement for them, and the exposure they get to other top stylists (during training) is worth more than money can buy. Apprentices will need commitment to training and hours of practice. It’s not for the faint hearted, but for the serious and dedicated. They need to be patient and prepared, and learn from their mistakes. I believe WorldSkills is a very exciting competition for young people developing skills not just in hairdressing and admire anyone that takes part.”

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Images courtesy of WorldSkills International

WORLDSKILLS


Grant Bettjeman, Bettjemans “Getting involved in World Skills has massive benefits for the salon and the apprentice. The skills demanded are a real stretch for any apprentice, and in my experience the challenge is just what our apprentices’ need. The apprentices who take up the challenge of WorldSkills are always light years ahead of the others in terms of development. The energy and training opportunities always involve the whole salon. We are building a team that have had some experience in WorldSkills, and they are extremely keen to pass on what they have learnt. My advice to salons wanting to get involved is to buy the WorldSkills Training Book and DVD. That tool is what set us in motion. Also, there are hairdressers all over the country that are excellent trainers and are always tremendously generous in giving their time to help.”

Cathy Davys, VIVO Wakefield Street “The employer benefits immensely by the apprentice being engaged in WorldSkills. In my experience it enhances the speed at which apprentices earn a profit in the salon, their confidence increases, they understand a systematic approach to tasks and are very aware of time frames. All this adds up to increased productivity in the salon. WorldSkills builds a terrifically sound skill base for apprentices. Their salon work improves, their cutting has more structure, their blow waves last longer, their colour work becomes more thoughtfully placed, and their clientele grows. I would not have the opportunities I have had in my career if it wasn’t for my time representing New Zealand around the world. Competing internationally has given me a true appreciation of our craft and an ongoing love for this industry. My ongoing learning and education has helped me build a large client base that enjoys perfection in their cuts, colour, and styling. If you’re going to enter WorldSkills, make sure to research, plan, and start practicing early. Ask for advice and be prepared to go for it. All work is completed on a mannequin, so there are no excuses. And finally, keep in mind that WorldSkills is fun.”

Dave Rogers, Morph Hair “WorldSkills really pushes apprentices to achieve. They become better all-round apprentices and speed up their learning. It helps their professional development and personal growth. WorldSkills encourages everyone in the team to improve their skills and share their knowledge. It also brings the team together as they all support the people competing. It gives your competitor a point of difference. Clients know who they are and ask for them specifically, which helps them build a client base and brings more business to the salon. The support of the team and the clients helps build confidence too. WorldSkills opens up tons of fantastic opportunities for the salon and the competitors. It gets awesome coverage for your salon – Morph has been featured in industry magazines and local papers. And one of our competitors was asked to be on the Redken Artistic team, which is an opportunity she might not have had if it weren’t for the publicity and skills she got from WorldSkills. WorldSkills sends a message that your salon is progressive and invests in the future of industry”.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON WORLDSKILLS, PLEASE CALL PITCHIN ON (04) 499 1180 OR EMAIL WORLDSKILLS@HITO.ORG.NZ. TO APPLY FOR WORLDSKILLS, PLEASE FILL OUT AND RETURN THE ENCLOSED APPLICATION FORM.

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WORLDSKILLS

WORLDSKILLS UPDATE In April 2015, WorldSkills New Zealand is hosting the first WorldSkills Oceania competition. Over 100 competitors from seven countries are competing in this exciting event, including our very own Jenny Eastwood and Nadine Gratton. The pair will compete in the hairdressing section against stylists from Australia, Malaysia, India and beyond.

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Both Nadine and Jenny were also grateful to attend HITO Boot Camp (read all about Boot Camp in this issue of Forma). The mentoring and training that happened at Boot Camp adds another layer to Jenny and Nadine’s preparation for Oceania.

adine (Ursula Harris Hair Design, Nelson) says she is “super excited” about the chance to compete at an international level. Competing at such a high level means lots of work. For training, Nadine has been focusing on the women's blow-wave, men’s bombage, bridal and three wishes modules of the competition.

The Oceania Competition is taking place at the Waikato Institute of Technology in Hamilton on 14-17 April 2015. After Oceania either Jenny or Nadine will be selected to travel to Brazil with the “Tool Blacks” team.

“I’ve been getting my timing a lot faster over the last couple of weeks,” she says. “In the next few weeks before competing I am setting aside 3-4 hours a day specifically on one module so I can master my design on each module. Things are moving along quickly now so I’m just trying to manage my work and training and find the balance so I can keep doing more training.”

The Tool Blacks consist of the top young people from each skill category, and they will head to Brazil in August to compete in the International WorldSkills Competition. Representing New Zealand at this international event is an honour that two other HITO hairdressing apprentices have had so far. In 2011, Laura Simpson represented New Zealand in London, and Cait Woodcock competed in Germany in 2013.

Jenny’s spending her time practicing in the salon. She’s also attended several seminars recently which have helped her train for WorldSkills and learn new skills. And, of course, the training sessions organised by HITO have helped her hone her skills.

WHAT IS WORLDSKILLS? WorldSkills is an international competition where young people compete to be the best of the best in their chosen skill. Hairdressing is not the only industry to take part – others include engineering, automotive, hospitality and carpentry. Not for the faint of heart, competitors need to show excellence in a wide range of skills. Nadine highly reccommends getting involved with WorldSkills:

Jenny is particularly grateful to New Zealand scissor manufacturer Kieran Janes of KJ Scissors. Kieran generously gave Jenny a 50% discount on a brand new pair of scissors recently because he wanted to help her do her best at the competition. Kieran has been crafting high-quality scissors for over 20 years. “The scissors are amazing,” Jenny says. “They’re everything everyone says about them and more. I’m so grateful to Kieran for giving me the discount – I could never have afforded them otherwise”.

“I think it’s an amazing way for apprentices to up their skill level and have the chance to develop new skills further,” Nadine explains.

IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES THEN APPLY FOR WORLDSKILLS REGIONAL COMPETITIONS TODAY. GO TO WWW.HITO.ORG.NZ/WORLDSKILLS TO FIND OUT MORE INFORMATION AND DOWNLOAD AN APPLICATION FORM OR EMAIL WORLDSKILLS@HITO.ORG.NZ. FIND OUT MORE ABOUT WORLDSKILLS NEW ZEALAND AT WWW.WORLDSKILLS.ORG.NZ/ OR INTERNATIONAL WORLDSKILLS AT WWW.WORLDSKILLS.ORG/ IF YOU’RE IN HAMILTON 14-17 APRIL 2015 COME DOWN TO WINTEC AND HAVE A LOOK AT THE COMPETITION.

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JENNY WORKING ON HER MANNEQUIN

ULRICA DEMONSTRATES ON A MANNEQUIN

NADINE WATCHES AS ULRICA DEMONSTRATES TECHNIQUES ON THE MANNEQUIN AT WORLDSKILLS TRAINING

NADINE GRATTON AND JENNY EASTWOOD

JENNY AND ULRICA DISCUSS WORLDSKILLS TRAINING

JENNY AND NADINE

NADINE WORKS ON HER MANNEQUIN

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GENERIC LEGISLATION OVERVIEW New Health and Safety law will likely take effect in the second half of 2015, bringing new responsibilities for everyone in the workplace. WorkSafe Sector Engagement Manager Bryce Fleury explains what this will mean to workplaces across New Zealand.

N

o one goes to work expecting to get hurt, sick or killed. But in New Zealand, far too many people do. On average, 75 people per year die on the job, one in 10 is harmed and 600-900 die from work-related diseases – all coming at a cost of $3.5 billion per year to the New Zealand economy. And that doesn’t take into account the social and psychological costs on the friends, family and co-workers of those people hurt or killed on the job.

organisations are safe, healthy places to work. Workers also have duties under the new legislation to take reasonable care for their own and their fellow workers’ health and safety. Health and safety is everyone’s responsibility, and both PCBUs and officers will (and should) be held accountable if they fail in their duties. Another important point to note is that when two or more PCBUs are working together, they will have overlapping duties of care. While these same duties exist under current law, the Bill provides clearer requirements for PCBUs to work together to meet their duties. For example, on a construction site where there are a number of companies working together, each PCBU has to consult and coordinate with the other PCBUs to ensure the health and safety of the workers on site as well as anyone visiting the site.

In international terms, New Zealand’s workplace health and safety record is extremely poor. On a population basis, you’re twice as likely to be killed or suffer serious harm working in New Zealand compared to Australia, and six times as likely as if you were working in the UK.

The Bill also proposes extending coverage for volunteers. The Working Safer reforms are aimed at targeting high risk activities and the last thing we want to do is negatively affect the many volunteers who make such a vital contribution to communities around New Zealand. In the Bill’s current form, voluntary organisations (that have no paid employees) will not be covered by the legislation. Organisations that have a mix of voluntary and paid staff will be regarded as PCBUs and will have the same duties to those volunteers as they would to any other worker. Directors of organisations who are volunteers will still have the duty of due diligence but will be exempt from prosecution if they fail to meet this duty.

That’s why in 2013, the Government announced the Working Safer reform package, aimed at bringing down New Zealand’s workplace injury and death toll by at least 25 per cent by 2020. That’s a big ask. And if we are going to meet this goal, everyone has a role to play. Naturally, people want to know about the new accountabilities, responsibilities and penalties the new law will create. While the full details of the Bill won’t be confirmed until it finally passes through Parliament, there are some important, positive changes on the horizon for us all which can be outlined now. The new law introduces the concept of a Person Conducting a Business or Undertaking (a “PCBU”), and the PCBU has the primary duty for Health and Safety. Despite its name, a PCBU will usually be a business entity, however a person can also be a PCBU if they are a sole trader or self-employed.

There are those who still see health and safety as just another compliance chore, but a strong commitment to a healthy workplace can deliver you better staff retention and engagement, higher productivity, greater client commitment and a significant return on investment. And yes, there will be significant penalties for those who fail in their duties, including fines, jail time, or both. WorkSafe will certainly enforce these penalties if and when we have to, but we never want to have to. Our goal is to make every New Zealand workplace safer for everyone, every day.

The new law makes it very clear that those who create risk are responsible for managing it, either by eliminating or minimising it, so far as is reasonably practicable. That’s why the primary responsibility rests with the PCBU. This new concept moves away from the narrow employer-employee relationship and more accurately captures where the risk lies, as well as the PCBU’s responsibility to manage it.

The question that every person in the workplace should be asking themselves is not “Do I have a responsibility for workplace health and safety?”, but “What is my responsibility for workplace health and safety?” It’s the right thing to do and it’s good business. Everyone who goes to work deserves to come home healthy and safe.

The new law also brings new responsibilities for company partners and directors as well (called “officers”). Officers will have to actively engage at the governance level to make sure their

VISIT WWW.BUSINESS.GOVT.NZ/WORKSAFE/ FOR MORE INFORMATION.

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CHANGES TO EMPLOYMENT LAW IN 2015 By David Patten LLB:BA; MBS; FAMINZ.

I

CHANGES TO THE EMPLOYMENT RELATIONS ACT 2000

trust you have all had an enjoyable and relaxing festive season. I suspect that 2015 is going to be a challenging year for the industry given the various changes to the business landscape.

In this context I would like to discuss some of those changes as they impact on your staff.

A number of changes to this Act will take effect from 6 March 2015. The key changes which, in my view, are directly relevant to the hair and beauty professions are as follows.

CHANGES TO PAID PARENTAL LEAVE

1. GOOD FAITH

Changes to paid parental leave came into effect on 1 April 2015.

This change amends the good faith provisions that require an employer to give an employee relevant information where they are proposing to make a decision that will, or is likely to, have an adverse effect on the continuation of that employee’s employment. It aims to clarify what information employees are entitled to during restructures or other situations where their employment is at risk.

These changes extend the maximum amount of Paid Parental Leave from 14 to 16 weeks. The changes apply to an employee or a self-employed person if: • The expected date of delivery of their child is on or after 1 April 2015, but the child is born before that date; or

An employer must give the affected employee relevant confidential information about themselves. An employer does not have to give the affected employee confidential information about another employee if doing so would involve an unwarranted disclosure of the affairs of that person. Further, an employer does not have to give confidential information that legally must stay confidential, or where there is good reason to

• The child is born on or after 1 April 2015; or • In the case of adoption, if the date on which the carer assumes care of the child is on or after 1 April 2015 Please note that the maximum amount payable for eligible employees and self-employed persons is presently $504.10 gross per week.

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keep the information confidential e.g. to protect the employer’s commercial position.

• Any other law that requires an employee to take rest and meal breaks takes priority over the rules in the Act.

NB: Restructuring your business from a legal perspective is becoming an increasingly complex area of law. If you are contemplating a restructure I urge you to seek legal advice before you commence the restructuring process.

Please note that employers and employees cannot contract out of the right to rest and meal breaks – an employment agreement that required an employee to take no breaks, and did not provide compensatory measures, would exclude an employee’s entitlements and therefore would have no effect. In other words, an employee either gets a break or a compensatory measure – the employer cannot fail to give either.

2. FLEXIBLE WORKING ARRANGEMENTS Under the present Act the right of employees to request flexible working hours is restricted to those employees who have caring responsibilities. A request cannot be made until after six months employment has elapsed.

In my view and taking into account the nature of the profession, salon owners would be unwise to seek to replace rest and meal breaks with compensatory payments. The profession can be stressful; the health and safety of staff and salon clients is of paramount importance; advice should be obtained at the time any changes are being contemplated.

Under the new Act all employees now have the right to request flexible working arrangements at any time and employers must respond to this request within one month, in writing, giving the reasons for any refusal. There is now no limit on the number of requests an employee may make in a year.

Until next time...

3. REST AND MEAL BREAKS PS: IF THERE ARE ANY MATTERS OF AN EMPLOYMENT LAW NATURE THAT YOU WOULD LIKE ME TO WRITE ON PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO ME AT DAVID.PATTEN@DJPASSOCIATES.CO.NZ

The changes under this heading seek to balance the importance of rest and meal breaks with the need for breaks to be practical for each work place. The changes replace the current strict rules with a more general right for employees to have rest and meal breaks to give them a reasonable opportunity to rest, eat, drink and deal with personal matters. The new provisions encourage employers and employees to negotiate, in good faith, rest and meal breaks without compromising business continuity and flexibility. A rest break is a short break, whereas a meal break is longer break for employees to eat a meal (lunch, for example).

CHANGE TO MINIMUM WAGE On 1 April 2015 the minimum wage increased to $14.75 per hour. Workers on minimum wage must receive a minimum of:

The changes say:

• $118.00 for an 8 hour day

• When employers can make reasonable restrictions on rest and meal breaks

• $590.00 for a 40 hour week • $1180.00 for an 80 hour fortnight

• That employers can specify when breaks are taken, if employees and employers cannot agree on when and how long a break should be

The Training Wage (which relates to the minimum wage for trainees and apprentices) will also increase to $11.80 an hour. Trainees or apprentices on minimum wage must receive a minimum of:

• That an employer is exempt from giving breaks when employees agree to reasonable compensation or where the employer cannot reasonably give the employee rest and meal breaks

• $94.40 for an 8 hour day • $472 for a 40 hour week

• That reasonable compensatory measures are to be provided when an employer is exempt from the requirements to provide breaks

• $944 for an 80 hour fortnight

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON THE CHANGES GO TO WWW.MBIE.GOVT.NZ

• Rest breaks must be paid. Meal breaks do not have to be paid.

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JACQUI AT WORLDSKILLS NATIONALS

JACQUI MALCOLM

JACQUI MALCOLM ACCEPTS THE JASMINE MCBETH MEMORIAL SCHOLARSHIP

JACQUI MALCOLM AND COURTNEY JACKSON, BOTH FROM BE BA BO HAIR STUDIO, WITH THEIR AWARDS

JACQUI MALCOLM (R ) AND JENNY EASWTOOD AT NZ FASHION WEEK 2014

JASMINE MCBETH

JACQUI'S DIARY Jacqui Malcolm, 2014 Jasmine McBeth Memorial Scholarship recipient, shares her experiences since receiving the scolarship.

“I

couldn’t be more honoured and thankful to be the 2014 Jasmine McBeth Memorial Scholarship recipient. Hearing my name called out and receiving the scholarship was the most overwhelming feeling ever. I couldn’t be more grateful to receive such a special award. The Industry Awards were incredible. I love being around so many people that share the same passion.

them light up in the mirror is the best feeling of all. I’ve only just signed up to start the Advanced Cutting qualification, but I’m looking forward to the challenge. I’m looking forward to the platform presentation Advanced Cutting trainees have to do. We have to present a haircut to a live audience, which will be a big challenge for me. My other goal for this year is to pass on what I’ve learned to others. So many people helped me to achieve my goals last year that I want to pass it on. Courtney Jackson and Hine Te Ahwe (who work at Be Ba Bo Hair Studio with me) recently asked me to help them train for their Photographic Competition entries. Hannah Hay also asked me to help her train for her final assessment, which I really enjoyed.

It was very special to meet the past winners of the Jasmine McBeth Memorial Scholarship along with Denise and Murray McBeth, Jasmine’s parents. They made me feel very welcome, and I’m so happy to be a part of the Jasmine McBeth Scholarship family. Living in New Plymouth (where Jasmine lived) has given me the opportunity to learn more about Jasmine and what she achieved. I’ve met many people that knew her. Despite struggling with cancer, Jasmine fulfilled her hairdressing dreams. I’m even more inspired than ever to achieve my hairdressing goals and dreams after learning what she achieved.

I’ve recently signed on to be a trainee judge at the NZARH competitions. I’m looking forward to learning everything about judging and learning more about hairdressing along the way. I want to pass on what I learn to other people, and I hope to be inspired by what I see as a judge.

2014 was the year that kicked off my hairdressing career. I achieved my National Certificate in Hairdressing, won WorldSkills in Auckland and competed at WorldSkills Nationals, helped out at NZ Fashion Week, and attended Sydney Hair Expo. I can’t wait to use my Jasmine McBeth Memorial Scholarship to help my career grow even more.

I followed Julieanne’s (Hartshorne, the 2013 Jasmine McBeth Memorial Scholarship recipient) journey in Forma magazine last year. She achieved so much with her scholarship money, and I hope to be just as successful. I can’t wait to see what other opportunities arise for me. Thank you to Denise and Murray, to HITO, and, of course, to Jasmine. I’m so grateful to have this opportunity to fulfil my dreams and inspire others. I’m excited to share my journey with you in Forma over the coming year.”

The first goal I plan to achieve is gaining my National Certificate in Hairdressing (Advanced Cutting). Cutting is a passion of mine. Giving my clients a completely new haircut and seeing

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APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR NADINE GRATTON (URSULA HARRIS HAIR DESIGN)

NADINE AT THE 2014 BOOT CAMP

ULRICA TRAINS NADINE AND JENNY FOR WORLDSKILLS

WORLDSKILLS TRAINING

NADINE'S DIARY Nadine Gratton, HITO Apprentice of the Year 2014, shares what she’s been up to since she won the award.

“I

was over the moon when they called my name (as the winner of HITO Apprentice of the Year 2014). I didn’t think I heard them properly. I was speechless and shocked, but super happy and excited at the same time.

I’ve also been involved in a few photoshoots for Wild Tomato magazine, a local magazine in Nelson. I’ve worked with the fashion editor of Wild Tomato for a while now, and I often do the hair for their photo shoots. Doing this has helped me build confidence and shown me a different way to work with and look at hair. It’s an ongoing opportunity for me to learn new things. I usually meet with Sonya (the fashion editor) a week before the photo shoot. She shares her vision with me, and then we brainstorm ideas to figure out what will look best. On the day of the shoot I prepare and style the model’s hair. Sonya checks on the style at the end to make sure it matches the vision. Once the hair is complete, we lend Sonya a few products to photograph so she can explain to their readers how I achieved the hair look.

Winning HITO Apprentice of the Year is only one of the exciting experiences I’ve had in the last year. I’m part of WorldSkills, attended HITO Boot Camp, and had some photo shoots for Wild Tomato magazine in Nelson. I competed in the WorldSkills regional and national competitions last year, winning the bronze medal at the National competition. Since then I’ve been training for WorldSkills Oceania, which involves competitors from all over the Pacific region. Training for WorldSkills has been fantastic. Every time I train I learn something new and come up with different ways to do things. It’s taught me a lot not just about WorldSkills but about self-discipline and self-management too. I don’t think I would be as confident as a hairdresser if I hadn’t done WorldSkills. Competing has brought me out of my shell, which helps me every day in the salon as well as with finding extra opportunities.

The most recent thing I’ve taken part in is the HITO Boot Camp. The seven regional apprentices spent three days at L’Oréal Academy in Auckland, learning from industry experts. I learned so much in the three days at Boot Camp. It made me think about my career and my goals and boosted my confidence. I learned how to network and that there are plenty of different paths to take to get where you want to go. I learned tons of practical tips from Michael Beel and Karina Gollins’ sessions, and got to do a fantastic photo shoot with Jock Robson. I also learned a ton about competitions, editorial work, and having a work-life balance. Boot Camp was amazing, and I encourage everyone to get involved. It taught me so many different ways to look at things.

Jenny Eastwood (gold medallist at WorldSkills Nationals) and I recently did some training with Ulrica Hansson and Richard King. I learned how to do a men’s bombage cut, which is a classic men’s cut. Bombage means ‘to bend’ – it’s a square-shaped cut that looks simple but is quite technical and is a good way to show skill. I also learned new blow waving and thinning techniques. The thinning technique has helped me a lot. I also learned how to colour the new mannequins we will be using – they are white-blonde this time, which means the colour will come out differently than on the brown mannequins we’ve used previously.

I’ve grown so much as a hairdresser since the last Boot Camp (Nadine attended the 2014 Boot Camp as 2013 Northern South Regional Apprentice of the Year). The 2015 Boot Camp showed me how far I’ve come in the last year. I feel more confident overall. I especially feel my public speaking has improved. I’m where I am today because of people’s willingness to help me and teach me. I plan to grab every opportunity that comes my way and help train and pass on my knowledge to other apprentices to help them achieve their goals.”

I’m nervous but excited about WorldSkills Oceania. I’m looking forward to seeing the work from other countries. It will be my first time competing with people from other countries, which will be cool to be a part of.

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“A lot of the work in a photoshoot is the planning,” Tiffiny says. “On the day it should be all about having fun and seeing your look come together”.

getting the most out of a photoshoot Tiffiny Spencer of Protégé Hairdressing gives her top tips on getting the most out of a photoshoot.

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T

The makeup: You should go about finding a makeup artist in a similar way to finding a photographer – shop around and check out their portfolio. You may also wish to do your own makeup, in which case Tiffiny has some advice.

iffiny Spencer is the owner of Protégé Hairdressing in Wanganui. Tiffiny and her business partner Kate are talented editorial stylists, and both were finalists in the 2014 NZARH Editorial Stylist of the Year (with Tiffiny taking away the Wanganui Editorial Stylist of the Year Award).

“Good quality makeup is essential,” Tiffiny says. “The camera picks up everything, so a well-finished look is vital.”

“Kate and I have always loved photographic work,” Tiffiny says. “I enjoy the freedom involved in something I find beautiful”.

The venue: Protégé has their own studio, which makes things easy. Your photographer may also have access to a studio. But if you want a different location, look around. Brainstorm a few ideas first, and think about what you want out of the setting. Then take a look around. Make sure to discuss possible venues with your photographer so you can pick the best time of day (when the lighting will be best).

When Tiffiny and Kate built their salon, Protégé, from scratch, they decided to include a photography studio in the building. Having the studio made photoshoots a lot easier, and Tiffiny says the Protégé team have done so many more photoshoots than they could otherwise. Tiffiny agreed to share some of her photographic experience with us. Read on to find out all the tips and tricks to creating fantastic photographic work.

Stylist/clothes: You also need the right clothes to complete the photograph – you don’t want your beautiful hair and flawless make-up brought down by a ratty t-shirt. Professional shoots (for magazines, for example) will provide a stylist and the clothes. If you’re doing your own shoot, make sure to include clothes in your brainstorm. Think about what clothes will match the hair and mood of the shoot – 1950’s pin-up hair goes great with a wiggle dress, for example. Then track those clothes down. You may find it easier to have the models provide their own clothes, if possible. You could also partner with a local store, who could use the images for advertising in exchange for providing the clothes.

GETTING STARTED You need to do a lot of planning before you take a fantastic photo. You need the right people, products, and tools. Make plan of what you will need for the photoshoot. The list might look something like this: • Model • Photographer

PLANNING YOUR IMAGES

• Hair products and accessories • Tools (brushes, straightener etc.)

As well as gathering the practical resources, you need to do some creative planning. You need to know your vision. What do you want the photographs to look like? Your vision for your photographs will inform your choice of photographer, model, makeup artist, venue, and products. It’s always a good idea to have some ideas in mind when you pick those resources.

• Make-up artist (or good quality make-up if you plan to do it yourself) • Venue • Stylist/clothes

Tiffiny starts her planning with an overall ‘feel’ for the shoot. She then thinks about what resources she will need to create that feel – what makeup, venue, etc.

Next, you need to gather all these resources. The model: Tiffiny recommends always keeping an eye out for models, and keeping track of them once you find them. Protégé keep a book listing all their models along with keywords to describe which looks work best on them (bohemian, soft, strong, moody etc.). You should also include photos in this book. This book gives them plenty of options when it comes to doing a photoshoot. If you’re just starting out, Facebook can be a good way to find models. Or just ask your friends. But remember to keep in mind what look you are going for. Pick a model you think will suit that look (and make it easy for you to create and maintain the look on the day of the photoshoot).

“Mood boards or Pinterest boards are a wonderful way of keeping you on track with your vision,” Tiffiny says. A well-planned shoot goes much more smoothly than a poorly planned one, Tiffiny says. However, she still likes to leave some room for creative flow on the day of the photoshoot. “A lot of the work in a photoshoot is the planning,” Tiffiny says. “On the day it should be all about having fun and seeing your look come together”.

The photographer: A good photographer doesn’t have to cost the earth. You should look around at different photographers, and take a look at their portfolios. Find one that has experience taking the sort of photos you want – if you want to take a photo outside, for example, find someone with experience with natural light. Protégé have had great success with photography students in the past – they’ve got the skills to take a fantastic image, but they may be more affordable than an experienced professional.

With that in mind, you should practice your look before the day. That way you’ll know you can achieve the result and make it look good. You’ll also be able to keep the shoot running on time, which is a very important skill. Your photographer, model, and makeup artist may have other jobs to go to, or they may charge you more for going over time. Also, if you work on a shoot for a magazine, or somewhere like New Zealand Fashion Week, being on time is crucial.

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GETTING THE MOST OUT OF A PHOTOSHOOT

ON THE DAY

TOP TIPS

The day of your photoshoot has arrived. Most of the planning should be finalised by now, and you should have a smooth and fun day.

• When you are first starting out, Tiffiny says, set aside a session to look through some images that look amazing and some that don’t. Lay them all out and analyse what works in the amazing images and what doesn’t work in the not-sogreat ones. Doing this analysis will save you making those mistakes in your shoot and give you some ideas on how to achieve a fantastic image.

On average, Tiffiny says, you’ll spend around 30 minutes shooting each model. 30 minutes gives you enough time to try out a few poses and make the most of the model while their hair and makeup are fresh. You will also need around 1-1.5 hours of preparation time before the shoot – to set up, get hair and makeup done, etc.

• Use the best model you can, and treat them well. Provide food and water at the shoot for them, and, if you can, Tiffiny says a small gift bag never goes astray. The better you treat them, the more likely they are to work for you again.

Clear communication is vital. Make sure everyone involved knows exactly what’s happening, when it’s happening, and what they need to do.

• Practice, practice, practice and plan, plan, plan! • Make sure your hair, makeup, and styling all work together, that they look right on your model and on camera, and that they create the mood you want.

In terms of poses, it can be a good idea to bring along some images as direction for your model. That way you get exactly the pose you are looking for, which makes everyone’s job a lot easier.

• Invest in the best photographer you can get. Remember photography students may be an option.

The other thing you need to remember is that the camera picks up everything. This is why good quality makeup is important. You also need to make sure that your hairstyle is well-finished – every little flyaway hair will show up in high definition on the camera. These can be edited out, but it’s much easier just to get the hairstyle looking as good as possible in the first place. Check the shots as they are taken to make sure everything is as you want it.

• Remember that hair can look smaller and flatter on camera than it does in real life. Don’t be afraid to make your hairstyles bigger. • Don’t rely on your photographer to edit the images to make them look good. Get as much perfect for the shoot as you can. The photographer should be focussing on fixing tiny blemishes or adjusting the lighting a little, not on editing out a thousand flyaway hairs. With good planning, the best resources you can get, and a strong creative vision, you’ll be creating fantastic images in no time.

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HAIR AND MAKE-UP: Tiffiny Spencer PHOTOGRAPHERS: Lace Photography, Skunk Photography, Treehouse Photography MODELS: Amber Thompson-Newth, Jasmine Middlemiss, Lily Keats-Farr

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JOSH ANGELL

see your work in print 48


JOSH ANGELL YOUR SALON: dharma MODEL/S: Red 11 Model Management PHOTOGRAPHER: Jessica Sim MAKEUP ARTIST: Kei Kei

I wanted to find a career that let me be my creative self and have fun at the same time. Hairdressing allows me to do that.

work with such fantastic models and great clothes. I built the look around them. I entered this work into an Australasian apprentice competition in Sydney.

I gained my hairdressing qualification in December 2014. Doing an apprenticeship was fantastic – it was fun, and getting paid as I worked towards my qualification was a bonus. I love that you’re not stuck in a classroom – you’re hands-on with real clients, experiencing the energy of the salon environment.

PRODUCTS I used GHD styling products to create these looks. Of course, I wouldn’t have been able to achieve such a great result if it wasn’t for the photographer, stylist, makeup artist, and assistants. They all played a part in the end product.

I’m surrounded by passionate and fashion-forward people every day at work. They inspire me, support me, and push me to do what I love.

SPECIAL THANKS TO

I enjoy photographic work because I can push myself to the next level. Expressing my creativity and capturing it on camera is a challenge I love embracing. I want to eventually work overseas on international fashion shows like New York Fashion Week and London Fashion Week.

Thank you to my photographer, Jessica Sim, my makeup artist, Kei Kei, and the models from Red 11 Model Management. I couldn’t have cre ated these images without you. Thanks also to Jock and Sara (owners of dharma). I’ve learned so much from both of you. And thanks to the dharmasquad, my co-workers.

I was inspired to create this look by the amazing models and clothes I got to work with. It’s not every day you get to

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see your work in print

LARISSA ROBERTS YOUR SALON: Three Hairdressing MODEL: Wiebka Mjhihoff PHOTOGRAPHER: Jo Bayliss

I started my career in hair and beauty as a nail technician. I liked working in the beauty industry, but I wanted a change, so I decided to step outside my comfort zone and go for a hairdressing apprenticeship.

ponytail. I then braided sections of hair, beginning at the nape and working towards the face. I joined the ends of the braids into one braid that wraps around the top of the section to create a braid down. I dressed out the set and put most of it into a ponytail and then worked the rest of the hair around the hairband to hide it.

My favourite part of being an apprentice is accomplishing something I couldn’t do before. I’m looking forward to finishing my apprenticeship and growing as a hairdresser.

PRODUCTS

This work was for the NZARH regional competitions. It was my first competition, and it was a great feeling getting it perfect in such a short period of time. All my practice paid off.

I used Redken Guts to give body and hold for my set, Davines Medium Hold Modelling Gel for the braids to keep them slick and Davines More Inside Strong Hold Spray to finish the look.

I really enjoyed seeing the end result of all my hard work and creating a style that I can look back on forever with the great image I have of it. I also enjoyed playing dress-up with the model.

SPECIAL THANKS TO Thanks so much to my model, my trainer, and my salon for allowing me to practice this so much in the salon. Special thanks also to my boss/trainer Hazel Newman. She is so passionate about hair, and her inspiration drives me. She has taught me that there’s so much more to hairdressing than what we do every day in the salon.

I researched hair trends and braids – which I love – and this gave me the inspiration for this look. To achieve this look I set half of the hair on hot rollers to create the curls for my

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LARISSA ROBERTS

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WHAT IS COPYRIGHT AND WHO OWNS IT? WHAT IS COPYRIGHT?

or the making of a film or some other types of work, and the work is made in pursuance of that commission, the first owner of copyright will be the person who commissioned the work.

Copyright is an intellectual property right that protects the skill, labour and/or effort involved in creating certain types of “works”.

The Copyright Act sets out how the ownership of copyright (including copyright in future works) may be transferred. For an assignment of copyright to be effective, it must be in writing, and must be signed by or on behalf of the person who is assigning copyright. The written document should be specific, and contain a clear description of the work or works which are being assigned.

Copyright in New Zealand is governed by the Copyright Act 1994. This Act provides that: • there is copyright in certain types of original works: literary works (e.g. novels, reports); dramatic works (e.g. plays, operas); musical works (e.g. songs, tunes); artistic works (e.g. paintings, drawings, photographs); sound recordings; films; communication works (e.g. a television broadcast); and typographical arrangements of published editions;

HOW LONG DOES COPYRIGHT LAST?

• copyright comes into existence automatically on the creation of an original work (there is no provision or requirement for registration);

Copyright in a literary, artistic, dramatic or musical work exists for the lifetime of the author plus fifty (50) years from the end of the year in which the author dies. Copyright in a film, sound recording, or computer-generated work lasts for fifty (50) years from the end of the year in which the work was made.

• copyright is a form of personal property that can be bought, sold, and licensed to others. Copyright means the right to copy. The owner of copyright has the exclusive right to copy, publish, and/or broadcast the work, or to authorise other persons to do these acts.

WHAT IS A “COPYRIGHT NOTICE” AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

WHAT IS COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT?

You should include a copyright notice on your copyright works. A copyright notice may take the following form: © Gary Snips 2014. The date in a copyright notice should be the year in which the work is first published.

If a person does any of these acts without the copyright owner’s permission, that person may be infringing copyright. The Copyright Act provides for both civil and criminal penalties for copyright infringement, as well as various defences to infringement.

If a copyright notice is on a published work, the named person/company is presumed to be the copyright owner.

You should seek specialised legal advice if you are accused of infringing the copyright of another person, or if you believe that someone is infringing your copyright.

WHAT OTHER RIGHTS MAY ATTACH TO A WORK? Moral rights The Copyright Act provides that the author of a copyright work has “moral rights”, in addition to copyright. These moral rights include the right to be identified as the creator of the work (even if copyright in the work has been assigned) and the right to object to derogatory treatment of the work.

WHO OWNS COPYRIGHT IN A WORK? Generally the author (who could be an artist or a photographer) is the first owner of copyright in his/her original work. There are two main exceptions: I. if the work is made by an employee, in the course of his or her employment, that person’s employer will be the first owner of copyright in the work;

Privacy rights Individuals have a right to privacy in photographs taken of them for private or domestic use. The term of the individual’s privacy right is the same as the term of copyright in the photograph.

II. if a person commissions, and pays for (or agrees to pay for) the taking of a photograph or the painting of a portrait,

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SEE YOUR WORK IN PRINT Are you a HITO apprentice or newly qualified stylist? Have you always dreamed of seeing your photographic work on the pages of a glossy magazine? Then enter See Your Work in Print competition today. It’s easy to enter – just send us your images and details. Your images must be high quality, and you must have permission from the copyright holder for us to print the images. We’ll pick the best entries and print them in the next Forma. The See Your Work in Print competition deadlines for 2015 are: • 01 May 2015 • 01 August 2015

Each successful entrant will: • win a scissor sharpen from A Sharper Blade • have a chance to have their image featured on the cover of Forma. • be in the running for HITO See Your Work in Print Award. Each year at the Industry Awards, we announce the HITO See Your Work in Print Award winner. The winner is selected by Facebook vote. The person with the most ‘likes’ will win a stunning pair of scissors from A Sharper Blade.

• 01 October 2015

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO SUBMIT YOUR IMAGES, CALL US ON (04) 499 1180 OR EMAIL ENQUIRIES@HITO.ORG.NZ.

See Your Work in Print is sponsored by A Sharper Blade.


NZ SALONS' SAY KELLY PORTER Salon owner Kelly Porter shares her experiences with the It’s Not OK campaign.

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or most hairdressers, lending a listening ear to their clients’ problems is part of good customer service.

Isolation is an issue. Women who live rurally or on farms might only get into town once every couple of months. They will probably come to the hairdressers.

Over the years this can build into a long-term and trusting relationship. So much so, that a disclosure of family violence may eventually crop up between a wash and a blow wave.

“Every time they come in, I try to unpack a bit more about what’s going on. If he’s trying to control her hair, what else is he trying to control?”

As an abuse survivor, Ohakune salon owner Kelly Porter recognised that she could play a role in helping her clients get support.

Kelly’s workshops raise awareness that family violence is not just about people in de facto relationships or marriages. “It could be a parent being hurt by their children, or an elderly person being abused by a caregiver.”

“I got into a relationship which I thought wasn’t bad because he didn’t hit me. He did all the other things, emotional, financial, psychological, until I had a nervous breakdown and realised that none of it was OK.”

She stresses that the campaign isn’t about turning hairdressers being social workers. The workshops help hairdressers with acting as a helper and not ignoring disclosures.

With the support of the It's Not OK campaign, Kelly is now running workshops around the country with salon staff and hairdressing students about family violence and how to help.

“It’s about getting to the point where we can ask ‘are you OK?’ and give them some phone numbers to get support.

“As hairdressers, we often have a close relationship with our clients, and we can notice when things are not quite right. We are in a position to ask people if they are OK and to point them in the right direction if they need someone to talk to.

Salons that have had the workshops now display posters with the message that their staff want to help, and stock ‘It is OK to ask for help’ cards for clients to take.

If you get a gut feeling that something’s not right then it probably isn’t.”

Chances are you’re not going to have a client who walks in and tells you they are experiencing domestic violence.

Kelly is accompanied at the workshops by members of the It's Not OK team and family violence network representatives to provide information on the issues and support available.

But you might be able to pick up on things like their partner wants to control their hairstyles. He doesn’t like her hair colour. He’s not happy with it.”

The hairdresser project is an example of how the It's Not OK campaign supports workplaces and communities to address family violence.

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'I T'S NOT OKAY' BAILEY QUINN'S Michael and Jan Quinn, salon owners at Bailey Quinn’s Styling, talk about their work with the It's Not OK campaign.

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cross New Zealand, hairdressing salons are being asked to help their clients. As well as providing a hairdressing service, 2 Taupo salons also provide other support services. One such salon is Bailey Quinn’s Styling in Taupo, who are involved with the It's Not OK campaign.

for help, a staff member would take them out the back, make them a hot drink, and sit with them. They then call their local family violence network representative, who comes to meet with the person. She will find out what’s happening in their situation, and help them find the support they need.

It's Not OK is a community driven campaign designed to stop family violence in New Zealand. The goal of the campaign is to build communities where everyone can help prevent family violence. It's Not OK provides information for victims of family violence and for people who want to stop using violence, and also provide resources on ways for community members and organisations to get involved.

The staff at Bailey Quinn’s Styling are trained on how to help clients and those in the community. Their role is to help those who come to them get in contact with family violence network representative, and help them find the right support. Often clients trust their hairdresser deeply, making it easier for the client to confide in them. “Having your hair done is something very personal. When you’ve done someone’s hair time and time again they are more likely to feel comfortable with you and able to talk to you” says Jan.

Jan Quinn, owner of Bailey Quinn’s Styling, has always been passionate about helping victims of family violence. Once a victim herself, Jan volunteered at the Women’s Refuge in Invercargill. When she moved to Taupo, a representative from It's Not OK approached her about helping with their campaign. Jan accepted right away.

For other salons that want to get involved, Jan says a good place to start is contacting the It's Not OK campaign. If you let them know that you’re a salon and you want to help, they can help you get started. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE IT’S NOT OK CAMPAIGN SEE WWW.AREYOUOK.ORG.NZ. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN HAVING A PRESENTATION FOR SALONS IN

Bailey Quinn’s Styling are heavily involved in the campaign. David, their salon manager, is featured on posters around New Zealand promoting the campaign. Their salon also features posters, badges, and bracelets to let people know they are part of the campaign. “Our involvement is very well publicised in Taupo,” says Jan. “People know they can come to us for help”. If a client or someone in the community came to them for help, the staff at Bailey Quinn’s Styling would make sure that person gets the help they need. If a person comes to the salon looking

YOUR AREA, PLEASE CONTACT AREYOUOK@MSD.GOVT.NZ

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MELINDA GAINS HER NEW ZEALAND QUALIFICATION Melinda Capasso returned from New York to gain her National Certificate in Hairdressing (Level 4). She shared with us her experience and the importance of gaining your qualification.

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elinda always knew she wanted to be a hairdresser. As many young girls do, she experimented with cutting the hair on her dolls. She turned this hobby into a career when she started her apprenticeship at 16.

Relearning them and the rules surrounding them was a challenge. To combat her nervousness, Melinda did as much preparation work as possible. She practiced all her techniques on her clients and read everything she could.

Melinda was partway through her qualification when her Dad was in a bad car accident. The family made the decision to move somewhere warmer to help him recover. They eventually returned to NZ and by then Melinda had plenty of experience in hairdressing, enough for her to get a job in New Zealand.

One thing Melinda found particularly helpful was using the skills she would use on a photo shoot for her final assessments. Photo shoots require quick thinking, performing tasks in an efficient way, scheduling your time, and not letting your nerves overwhelm you. For the final assessments, which have a time limit, this approach worked perfectly.

“At 20, I didn’t care about qualifications,” Melinda admits. “I just wanted to earn money and work, not study”.

In the end, Melinda says that QbyE went well. QbyE involves an interview with a HITO assessor, who assesses the current skills. If there are any skill gaps, the learner has to complete extra units to bring their skills up to industry standards, or perform practical tasks to prove their skills. Then they sit the final assessments.

Melinda now lives in the USA. When applying to work in her current home of New York, Melinda was told she needed a qualification to be a hairdresser. Hairdressers in the USA go to beauty school, and the last thing Melinda wanted to do was spend years in the classroom. So she decided to come back to New Zealand and finish her qualification through HITO’s Qualification by Experience process (QbyE).

“The interview was excellent. I love that it was done in person because writing is hard for me (and for many hairdressers). Being able to describe things instead worked well for me. My assessor for the final assessments was fair but firm, which I liked”.

“I hated that my qualification was unfinished. It worked out well for me to come back and complete my qualification here. You need a qualification to get a job in most places and preparing for my qualification from America wasn’t easy. I didn’t have access to a lot of the resources I needed and the flights were expensive”

Melinda would recommend getting qualified. “Having a qualification is a fantastic confidence boost. It makes you feel like you’re as good as others in the industry. And it’s always good to finish what you’ve started”.

Melinda would recommend getting your New Zealand qualification before you go overseas. Her New Zealand qualification will be recognised in New York state, although she says not all states recognise overseas qualifications.

Now she has her qualification, Melinda plans to open a salon of her own. Along with a friend in New York, Melinda is going to open a training-based salon. They are also developing their line of organic salon products.

Melinda was a bit nervous about sitting her qualification. Many of the skills (like perming) required to pass her final assessments, were skills she hadn’t used in a while.

“Working with people and making them feel great about themselves is the best thing about hairdressing. You’re only as good as your last haircut, so I plan to continue offering great ones”.

WANT TO GET QUALIFIED THROUGH QBYE? PLEASE CALL (04) 499 1180 OR EMAIL ENQUIRIES@HITO.ORG.NZ FOR MORE INFORMATION

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GRADUATION 2015 SUNDAY 23 AUGUST 2015 AUCKLAND If you qualified with HITO between 23 August 2014 and 15 August 2015, we invite you to graduate at the HITO Graduation Ceremony. Graduates can bring one complimentary guest and purchase 2 additional tickets at $50 per ticket. A graduate’s employer can also attend for free – this ticket is not transferrable to friends or family. Each graduate will recieve a limited edition graduation medal. Only those who attend the graduation ceremony will recieve a medal. To take part in graduation you must register on the HITO website by 15 August 2015. Registrations open Monday 1 June 2015. Find out more at:

WWW.HITO.ORG.NZ/GRADUATION


colour and makeup – using colour with confidence By Wendy Hill, Wendy Hill Cosmetics.

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olour continues to feature strongly in makeup, and we’re enjoying the revival of lots of beautiful purple shades, inspired by hothouse gardens.

total look because they have very cool blue base tones. Adding a touch of platinum metallic silver shadow to eye makeup will add a sparkle and highlight the purple shades.

The colour spectrum stretches from powdery pastel shades of lavender, lilac and orchid pinks that are so soft and wearable, to the bolder statement shades of hot fuchsia pinks and purples. There is a shade to suit all skin tones.

HOW AND WHEN TO WEAR PURPLE? This season’s trend is to wear statement lipstick shades during the day, which can look fabulous. It doesn’t mean it needs to be dark. Some of the new matte lipsticks have rich textures and highly saturated colour pigments, so even the paler shades have an impact. Another option is for a sheer lipgloss in a brighter shade if your client prefers a softer look. For a more dressed up or a night look, go for it with a bold hot pink like the fuchsia lipstick shades.

WINTER IS COMING The winter climate can make the complexion appear dull and washed out. During this season show your clients how to embrace the beautiful shades of purple as they will add a flattering freshness and vibrancy to the skin.

For the best result, team a statement pout with more neutral eyes, particularly with the highly saturated lip shades. Minimise the eyes to balance out this look with a sheer wash of pastel eyeshadows in pinks and soft matte violet with minimal eyeliner to complement bright lip colours, a feminine way to wear the trend.

Your clients may already have the classic eye shades in greys and browns and lip shades of caramel browns, soft pinks and berry tones, all of which will complement and work well with the purples. Introducing interesting new seasonal shades to their existing makeup and using correct applications will encourage your clients to keep their makeup current and be excited about a new look.

Purple is a gorgeous shade to create a smoky eye. For extra drama, use opalescent pink eyeshadow as a base and a matte grape shade as the deeper accent with a touch of platinum as a perfect highlight to the inner corners of the eyes. The ongoing cat-eye eyeliner trend looks amazing too with both the nude and bright lip.

PICK A SHADE FOR MY CLIENT'S SKIN TONE All purples and pinks are not the same. Choosing the most flattering purple shades for your client’s skin is much like deciding on the most flattering shade of red lipstick: the shade of purple should work with their undertones.

THE MOOD

If they have a warm skin tone (golden undertone) Look for shades that are more muted and mix in some warmer accents on the eyes using brown or soft bronze shades of eyeshadow and eyeliner, and warm pink or mango blusher. We love the flattering mix of brown and purple!

These shades will make your client feel fabulously vibrant. A bold colour will give them confidence and lift their day! Try a hot pink for some extra pep, or a soft pink to feel more carefree and feminine. Sultry, smoky purple eyes are sexy, smouldering and sensational. Wearing eye-catching bright and bold colours can take us out of our comfort zone, and there is a fun, statement shade to suit even the shyest!

Keep the foundation shade warm to offset the cooler look. A cool skin tone (blue/pink undertone) Clients can wear the bold purples and bright fuchsia pinks as a

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GET THE LOOK

TOP TIPS

>> FACE – Keep the foundation very natural, and matte

When using eye colour as the focus, ensure brows are shaped perfectly and groomed to complete the eye work. A tapered brow will frame and balance the stronger eyes. No thin brows for this look!

with a light application of all in one camouflage cream foundation applied with a foundation brush. Blend well for an even cover and a flawless finish.

>> CHEEKS – We chose mineral blusher in a sheer fuchsia shade that will also serve as a highlighter. A blusher with a slight sheen to it will add just enough shimmer to accentuate the lip colour without overpowering it. We added pearl pink Candleglow just to the top of the cheekbones to lighten and brighten.

Apply a corrective liquid concealer in a pale yellow tone as an eyeshadow base to even out skin tone and keep colour in place.

>> EYES – Apply a violet matte eyeshadow as a sheer base to the lids, blended softly with a touch of pink. For a modern vibe, we recommend using a paler shade like a violet matte eyeshadow under the eye area and a grape matte as a darker shade to accent the upper lid. Gel eyeliner in a chocolate tone pressed along the upper lash line, and black mascara will frame the eyes.

Try applying an eyeliner pencil in white blended onto the lid under any bright shade to make the colours pop. Always keep lips exfoliated and use a lip balm to keep lips hydrated because dry lips will be accentuated by a matte or bright lipstick.

>> LIPS – Hot… hot… the hottest new shades of fuchsia lipstick perfectly applied with a lip brush and topped with a sheer high gloss for a pout with punch!

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FRIENDLY OR FRIENDSHIP – WHERE DO YOU DRAW THE LINE? There is a very fine line between a professional and personal relationship with your clients.

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ou should always care about your clients as people. Having that personal connection with your clients is one of the most enjoyable parts of being a beauty therapist, and part of being a professional is acting friendly and courteous towards clients. However, because they pay you the nature of the relationship is – and needs to be – different from that of a friendship.

So what's the problem you may ask? We constantly hear that we build solid businesses through building relationships with clients. The problem is that combining friendship with a business relationship limits your business prosperity. If a friend cancels their appointment with you at the last minute, will you charge them for that missed appointment? No, because friends treat you like a friend, not a professional person and you'll treat them as a friend rather than a client in return. So when a friendly professional relationship turns into a genuine friendship with a client, which often happens, you need to consider business first and friends second.

I always try to keep my “professional face” on and make sure not to share extremely personal things. However, I must confess my sins. My clients do know that: 1. I am in a relationship 2. I have two fur babies and

Always remember to “do what is good for business,” because it is the business success and longevity that will provide you with an income so you can continue to do what you love.

3. I am originally from South Africa. But this is where I draw the line. After these personal tidbits, I quickly turn the conversation back on them and ask about their lives and their interests. It puts them at ease and helps them feel like part of the conversation rather than a captive audience. It also helps you to get to know your client a little better so that you can remember and acknowledge important events and dates in their life. For example, you can ask about their sick cat or new job when you next see them. I consider this being friendly.

No matter what your opinion is on the importance of professional friendships and business, one rule is clear: You should never be friends with a client as a tool to grow your business. Friendship should come from genuine feelings and caring. In any case, it will remain a one-way friendship if you use it to manipulate your earnings. Remember, your client is smart. Just like a bad set of false eyelashes, it's obvious when it's fake.

Developing a friendship is a whole different story. So, there is friendly, and then there is friendship. Friendly clients are those who follow you on Facebook, Twitter or your personal blogs and comment when they have something to contribute to the conversation. Being friendly is a client who sends a quick email just to see how you're doing rather than to make an appointment.

It works the other way, too. If, every time you hear from a client, they are asking for a favor or asking for you to so something extra for no extra cost, BEWARE. That relationship is also not authentic and not a true friendship. True relationships are built on mutual respect and reciprocation.

On the other hand, friendship involves hanging out on the weekends and discussing personal and relationship issues and maybe inviting a client for drinks or dinner after work.

In the end, maintaining a professional friendship can be like navigating a minefield. But as long as there is a complete understanding between you and your client of when to be

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The problem is that combining friendship with a business relationship limits your business prosperity.

want to put your client in an awkward situation. Do not share your problems – nobody wants to hear them at work, least of all your clients. Keep your conversation positive and light.

professional and when to be friends, it can be navigated – with no surprise explosions along the way! Working as a beauty therapist requires you to get close to your client – physically and often emotionally. They often share things with you that they wouldn’t normally share with anyone else, making it difficult to maintain professional boundaries with your clients. However, these boundaries are necessary to give your best work to the client. As such, here are five guidelines to adhere to that will allow you to keep your boundaries intact without distancing yourself so much from clients that you lose the warmth of service you’re attempting to provide:

3. YOU ARE NOT YOUR CLIENT'S FRIEND. Being your client’s friend at work puts you in a very difficult situation. You potentially open yourself up for your client to ask you to do "favors" for them. On the flipside, never ask for favors from your clients. Keep your relationship with your clients professional at work. They are paying you for your time and skills, not to socialise. You are not their friend when you are working. Don't put yourself in a position where you owe them anything.

1. R EMEMBER AT ALL TIMES: YOU ARE A PROFESSIONAL, AND THIS IS YOUR WORKPLACE.

4. DON'T TALK ABOUT OTHER CLIENTS, EVER.

Beauty salons tend to be very social in nature, and this rule is easy to forget. Avoid sharing personal information with your clients, unless it is relevant to the treatment. I tend to keep the information I share with clients limited to that required to reach the client’s goals or particular treatment outcome. For example, I may share a funny story about me being nervous about experiencing a waxing treatment for the first time.

Clients will sometimes try and involve you in conversation about mutual friends or acquaintances. If you spend any portion of an appointment talking badly – or even just talking – about another client, your client will wonder whether you speak about them in the same manner. You don't want to give any clients the impression that they may be spoken negatively about the second they walk out the door. Never entertain gossip in any form at work. Rise above that and do not get involved.

2. K EEP THE CONVERSATION FOCUSED ON THE CLIENT.

5. DON'T GET CAUGHT UP IN THE DRAMA

Keep your attention on your client. Ask questions and let them talk away while you work. Be time conscious. Try to keep the content of the conversation clean. Do not ask overly personal questions or inappropriate questions. Keep in mind that often others in the clinic can hear your conversation, so you don’t

The best way to keep people from gossiping about you is to keep your personal life personal and be pleasant all the time, regardless of how others treat you. Don't let someone else's bad day affect you in a way that causes you to react negatively.

ARTICLE BY NADIA MCCRACKEN, DIRECTOR OF SPA & BEAUTY NZ. EMAIL NADIA@SPABEAUTY.CO.NBZ OR VISIT WWW.SPABEAUTY.CO.NZ. SPA & BEAUTY NZ PROVIDES KNOWLEDGE & RESOURCES FOR NZ BEAUTY THERAPISTS.

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CAN YOUR PERSONALITY DETERMINE YOUR SUCCESS IN BUSINESS? Larissa Macleman of Get Timely shares her expertise.

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This is someone who knows how to do the technical work involved in a job, without much thought to the two other equally important roles described in the book, the "Entrepreneur" and the "Manager". These are not three separate people, but distinct elements of our personalities. While we might be biased towards one, we all have these three personality qualities. To successfully run a small business, they must all play a role.

recently came across a book I had read back at the beginning of my business life that totally changed my mindset. It taught me some valuable lessons that I can honestly say were responsible for saving my business from ruin and helping me grow the structure of my successful salon business. The book is called, “The E-Myth – Michael Guber – Why Most Small Businesses Don't Work and What to Do About It.” If you haven’t already read it you must find a copy immediately!

Let’s have a quick look at how Michael describes each of these business personalities. While you read this, think about who you are and what made you start your own business.

In the book, Michael says that the reason most small businesses don't work is that they are run by a "Technician".

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THE TECHNICIAN is someone – a hairdresser, barber or beauty therapist – who is an expert in his or her craft. These people often go into business for themselves. They're good at what they do, and they know it. They work to reap the rewards of their labour. The technician is happiest doing the work they are good at and ignoring the rest, which is a recipe for failure.

THE TECHNICIAN IF YOU’RE SEEING CLIENTS EACH WEEK, YOU’RE MOST LIKELY A TECHNICIAN. WHILE IT’S IMPORTANT TO BE A TECHNICIAN SOMETIMES, YOU CAN’T AFFORD TO BE ONE PERSONA ALL THE TIME. HERE ARE SOME TIPS TO FREE UP SOME OF YOUR TIME AND HEADSPACE TO ALLOW THE OTHER PARTS OF YOUR TO BUSINESS FLOURISH. • Book out time to be the “other personas” in your appointment book. If you think you can do this at home, you’re fooling yourself. Your family or partner needs you to be present there too. Add dedicated time to your appointment book each week or month to do these other important jobs. You might not know what you’ll do in that time yet, but until you have some space to think you’ll always be too busy being busy to recognise the jobs that need doing.

THE ENTREPRENEUR is the dreamer, the one who sets out to do something new, the one who reaches for the stars. The Entrepreneur lives in the future, thinking about what could be rather than what is in the present. In this fastpaced world, the Entrepreneur is often frustrated by how slow the world seems to move around them.

• Know your strengths. If you know your strengths, it’s easy to find your weaknesses. If you can’t or don’t want to put time into doing some parts of your business, find others who can and are are better suited to it than you, and delegate generously. Freedom begins here. • Employ people that are different to you. There’s no point having a business full of people who all have similar strengths and weaknesses. Balance is important. Without it, your business will fall over!

THE MANAGER is the detail oriented one. They dot the i's and cross the t's. They remember to pay the bills on time and want a well-organised world with no surprises. The Manager strives for a world where things happen in an orderly and predictable manner.

• Share your strengths and skills with your team. Train them to take on your strengths, because you don't have to be the best in your business at everything you do. • Manage your time. Time is money. Don't be fooled into thinking you sell haircuts or waxing services because you actually sell time in your clinic or salon. Be smart with your time management and scheduling. • Manage time in 15-minute gaps. One extra client is three or four 15-minute gaps. • Make sure you have great time management tools. Upgrade your salon software to a system that will sync with the other applications you use. For example, Timely syncs with your Google Calendar so that you have access to your appointments at any time, anywhere.

So, what role were you playing when you opened or bought your business? If you haven’t started your business yet, what role has inspired you to consider opening your own salon or clinic? When I opened my salon 22 years ago, I was a young technician having an entrepreneurial seizure!

• Get online booking. Not only will this let clients manage their appointments and stop that phone from interrupting you in the salon, but it will also mean your booking system is open 24/7. Clients can book appointments while you’re relaxing or getting a good night’s sleep.

To be successful in business, we have to be all of these three business personalities. Like a three-legged stool, if you remove one leg, the stool will fall over. However, it’s easier said than done to make changes to your business, let alone to your personality, especially if you're happy functioning in one area more than others.

• Employ an apprentice or salon support staff to help you stay on time.

Here are some tips to help you work smarter in your business, improve areas that you’re not so strong at, and build a robust sturdy business.

• Wear one hat at a time or per day. Switching job hats during each day frays the brain and reduces focus.

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CAN YOUR PERSONALITY DETERMINE YOUR SUCCESS IN BUSINESS?

THE ENTREPRENEUR

THE MANAGER

IF YOU’RE LIKE ME, THIS IS THE PART OF YOUR PERSONALITY THAT KEEPS YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT DREAMING OF HOW GREAT THINGS COULD BE. FLASHES OF INSPIRATION CAN STRIKE AT ANY TIME OF THE DAY OR NIGHT.

IF YOU STARTED OUT IN BUSINESS AS A SUCCESSFUL AND BUSY TECHNICIAN, SOMETIMES MAKING TIME FOR THE MANAGER TO SHINE THROUGH CAN BE A HARD PILL TO SWALLOW. DOING ROUTINE JOBS IS TEDIOUS. IT CAN BORE US TO DEATH! OTHER TIMES IT CAN BE DISCOURAGING WHEN YOU’RE NOT MAKING INCOME IN THE BUSINESS, AND IT CAN FEEL LIKE IT’S NOT WORTH DOING.

This is the part of your personality that you need to make time for. When you’re busy being busy, this part of you can get shoved deep down into a corner of your intellect and squashed. You lose inspiration and feel overworked and flat.

While the Entrepreneur needs space to dream, the Manager in you needs to be in control. Here are some simple tips to allow you to get away but remain in control.

1. Innovate: Innovation is the act of creating a new style, idea, or method. It’s the process of breaking away from what you know and creating something entirely new. When businesses innovate, they become industry leaders, and this is apparent to clients, competitors, and staff. Thankfully, there’s always room for innovation in the salon business as people, lifestyles, and cultures evolve.

• Cloud computing allows you to work from anywhere in the world by using any device to access everything you need to run your business. You know those photos of someone working on a tropical beach in Fiji? That’s possible. With cloud computing, you can go anywhere you’d like while keeping tabs on your business, staff, and income.

2. Finding ways to innovate: Look around and look back – Watch some videos on styles and their history. Innovation happens in all places at all times. Get inspired – watch the short 2-minute video about how the first bob cut came into style – write down this link: bit.ly/bobinspiration to watch it now!

• Utilise the virtual world as much as possible, as this will literally allow you to be in two places at once. It’s vital for you to be truly free to do what you want when you want, while still managing your business. Remember that the point of using these tips is to get away and let your creative and entrepreneurial inspiration return.

3. Customers: What can you change in your workflow that will improve both the quality and quantity of your work? What can you do to surprise and delight your customers in a way that is not expected? Look at other industries or overseas businesses for fresh inspiration. It may take a brainstorming session, so grab a cup of coffee or a stout cocktail, get your team involved, and get those creative juices flowing!

Consider implementing some of these tools to virtually run your business: • Google Hangouts – hold meetings with your team from anywhere in the world. Video chat live with the team the salon, even when you’re in Fiji.

4. Get away from it all: Get away from your business on a regular basis – ideally every quarter. Your Entrepreneur will relish in the space to think and dream big. Book some time out in your appointment book for a trip, a business trip of course.

• Timely – keep a finger on your business’s pulse and appointments all the time. • Xero – know what’s happening with your accounts at all times without having to wait until next year to know how you’re doing (and without any double entry). • Google Docs – Using this Google solution allows you to share documents with team members, accountants, or key stakeholders in your business. No more double-up versions of documents or accounts! • Trello – Trello is a free, flexible, and visual way to organize anything and is great for task management • Evernote – A virtual notepad that allows you to keep track of all your notes and ideas, across all of your computers and mobile devices. It’s great for when you have an inspirational idea for your business. • Dropbox – This Google Drive alternative allows you to save all of your documents securely in the cloud and access them from anywhere. • Square – Take credit card payments for your small business using your mobile device

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STICK TO IT!

HERE ARE SOME AUTOMATION TIPS

It may take a while to implement and get used to these changes to your business, but giving yourself some space for entrepreneurial dreaming should be one of the objectives on your list this year. Life should be exciting and inspirational, not so filled with work that you forget to dream! If you use Timely, you’ll be able to keep track of everything that’s happening in your salon from anywhere in the world. Set it up, teach your staff to use it, and book that plane ticket.

If you can, connect the salon software you use with these technologies to automate more of your business.

XERO (ACCOUNTING) Xero helps you keep tracking of your accounts. If you can create invoices in your software system and sync them with Xero, you’ll save lots of time. Your finances will be more accurate, too – there’s less room for a typo to make everything go horribly wrong if you only have to enter things once.

HIRE-RIGHT

MAILCHIMP (EMAIL MARKETING)

If being a Manager is not your area of strength, employ or outsource to someone else who is great at this. Your people are what make your business. It’s that simple. You don’t necessarily need to hire the most qualified or experienced staff, but try to find the ones who will grow into your culture and take care of your clients. Choose the people who will make your life easier, not harder. Listen to your gut instincts – they’re usually right.

Set up your email marketing to increase client retention and get new clients. If you can, get salon software that automatically transfers customer email addresses to an email list in MailChimp and sends your marketing content out for you.

SMS REMINDERS Instead of having to manually txt all your clients, consider getting a system that will automatically text them when they have an appointment coming up.

Remember you can role-share a manager’s position at busy times of the day to make the wages and costs work for your business. Someone who can multi-task with front-of-house, salon support, and cleaning, as well as office tasks, is a valuable business asset.

CLIENT NOTES Keep notes and client history to help build relationships with your clients. You can use an iPad during the consultation and add in notes, colour formulas, and recommendations while you chat, which saves you from coming back later to type in your notes.

NOW DELEGATE When you’re delegating a job, give your employee all the information they need to complete it on their own! Give clear instructions, agree on a clear completion date, and follow-up (“what gets noticed gets done”) Avoid reverse delegation and give credit where credit is due.

ONLINE BOOKING & PAYMENTS FOR CUSTOMERS Stop your phone from interrupting you and let clients manage their appointments and make payments without the interruption.

AUTOMATE

GOOGLE CALENDAR Sync your mobile device and existing calendars so you can manage your work and home life from anywhere at any time.

Technology has made it possible for us to automate many aspects of business in cost-effective and time-saving ways. Automating common processes means fewer mistakes and smoother running, without the need for constant input.

Being successful in business is about balance. You’ve got to balance your work and life, and while you’re at work, you need to learn to find an appropriate balance between technician, entrepreneur, and manager. If you can't be everything, surround yourself with people who can fill those gaps – no one expects you to go it alone.

going. The second piece of good news is that it’s so much easier to find a good balance today than it was ten years ago. There are so many software tools that can do a lot of the heavy lifting for you, and they can even communicate with each other so you can set it once and forget about it. Everyone knows that being in business is difficult, but it doesn’t have to be a constant struggle. You can work on the beach in Fiji while keeping tabs on your business, staff, and income. The only limiting factor is you.

There are two final pieces of good news. Firstly, no one is perfect, so if you don’t get it right the first time, don’t worry about it. Learn from your mistakes, pick yourself up and keep

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TEN SALON WEBSITE DO'S AND DON'TS Tom Murphy, Founder and CEO of Kitomba Salon Software, shares his business expertise.

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any things we do today start with a search online. Looking for a restaurant, directions, or recommendations? We tend to go straight to Google. It’s the same when people are looking for a new salon, so it’s never been more important to get your salon’s online presence up to scratch!

Potential clients could be bouncing straight off your website and onto a competitor’s website – or worse, not finding you at all. We’ve put together ten website dos and don’ts that should be your first point of call when you’re going through the website design or re-design process. If you don’t have a website yet, now’s the time to get one.

1 >> DO DESIGN YOUR WEBSITE WITH YOUR IDEAL CLIENT IN MIND

2 >> DON'T MAKE USERS WAIT, THINK OR READ People are busy. They don’t have time to scroll through 15 different salon websites before making their decision. There is a very small window of opportunity to gain a visitor’s attention before they move onto the next most interesting website. We’re sure that you’ve got a lot of valuable information that you want to tell your client, but does your client have a lot of time to read all of it? Unfortunately, the answer’s probably no. Make everything easy for your visitors. Only focus on what’s important to them and provide a logical order for your content. Think about the key information a visitor wants to see to take them from potential client to a new client. Include the location of your salon, contact information, price and service list, online booking link, salon interior photos, staff profiles. Build trust and see your new client numbers grow!

The most important step in creating a successful website is to design it with your ideal client in mind. Put yourself in their shoes, and design and structure it in a way that will appeal to them. Think about their age, income, gender, likes and dislikes, personal style, shopping habits and what sort of experience they are hoping to have with you. Design your website for this client – not ‘any’ client. Ask your current clients for feedback on what they want to see and feed this into the design process.

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3 >> DO THINK ABOUT WHAT PEOPLE SEARCH FOR ON GOOGLE

8 >> DON'T FORGET CONTENT IS KEY! Good content is a win-win for you and your reader! Consider setting up a blog on your website with hair/beauty tips and trends, salon news and promotions. It’ll help you rank higher on Google and increase your website traffic – you’ll also be seen as a thought-leader! Just remember, it’s what you do with your content that matters. Share it across social media and get other people and local businesses to share it to create links back to your website.

Where your website is listed in the search results in Google makes all the difference! So, what can you do to increase your ranking? First, you need to have the right words in the right places on your website. Google only reads text, so including relevant terms that your clients would use when they search for you will help your ranking. But don’t overuse keywords – if you do, Google will punish you by ranking your website lower on the search results. Your writing should flow naturally and should only mention your keywords where they fit. Read your website copy and ask yourself: does this make sense?

Important: A word of warning – only start a blog or social media page if you know you can maintain it. People will think your salon has disappeared if your last post was a year ago! This is where planning comes into play. Make a posting plan and stick to it – if you’re using Facebook you can schedule your posts for the future. Check out Hootsuite if you’re using more than one social media service; they offer a free plan!

4 >> DON'T USE FLASH ON YOUR WEBSITE Flash adds animated graphics and interactivity to websites, which was pretty cool when it first came out. But it’s definitely passed its use-by date. Why? Flash sites don’t tend to rank very well on Google as it’s unable to index the content, nor is it supported on many mobile devices (including iPhone or iPad). If you’ve visited an animated site in the past, you may have noticed it takes a bit longer to load as well – this is not good news for businesses wanting to acquire new customers. If your current website is Flash, speak to your web designer about ditching it.

9 >> DO THINK ABOUT USING STRONG DESIGN AND VISUALS Just like your salon, you want your website to reflect your brand. Balancing great visuals and white space is the key to making your website attractive and easy to use. Here are three quick tips to get you thinking about using strong design and visuals: 1. Get a professional photographer to take some stunning shots of your salon and use these throughout your site.

5 >> DO MAKE YOUR WEBSITE RESPONSIVE What does your website look like on a smartphone? Having a website that automatically changes format so it looks good on any type of device (such as smartphones and tablets) is called ‘responsive’ design, and it’s critical to avoid losing potential clients.

2. Utilise colours and textures that give your website depth and draw attention to the beauty of your design. 3. Design has evolved better to match your clients browsing behaviour e.g. fewer page clicks and more scrolling is in! Ask your web designer about how you can design a great scrollable site.

6 >> DON'T USE AUTO-PLAY MUSIC Please no! Picture this: a potential client subtly searching for a new salon when they’re supposed to be working and your website starts blasting music. They’ll pretty quickly to shut it down, right? Instead of using music, consider powerful visuals, good content and clean design. Your clients will appreciate that a whole lot more.

10 >> DON'T SET UP YOUR WEBSITE AND FORGET ABOUT IT Don’t let your website go stale and out of date. If you add a new service, don’t forget to add it to your website. Same goes for new staff, changes to location or contact information. Keep testing what’s working and what’s not. There are a number of tools you can use to improve the performance of your website. I’ll cover this in more detail around things to measure and watch in the next issue of Forma.

7 >> DO ADD ONLINE BOOKING TO YOUR WEBSITE Do you have a book now button? Clients are looking for convenience and simplicity when it comes to making their next hair or beauty appointment. The best thing you can do to meet your client’s needs and increase your revenue is to set up online booking. More than half of all online bookings are made outside of business hours, so make it simple for your clients to book at their convenience and leisure.

Setting up your salon website won’t cost the world! So shop around and find someone who knows all about the dos and don’ts of designing websites. Not all website designers are created equal, so check references and past work before you commit.

TOM MURPHY IS THE FOUNDER AND CEO OF KITOMBA SALON & SPA SOFTWARE, NEW ZEALAND’S NUMBER ONE SALON AND SPA SOFTWARE PROVIDER. TO LEARN MORE ABOUT KITOMBA, VISIT WWW.KITOMBA.COM OR CALL 0800 161 101.

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EVERY 2015 TEAM IS A SELF PORTRAIT OF THE PERSON WHO LEADS IT Margaret Walsh shares her leadership expertise.

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airdressing and Beauty Therapy Salon Leaders typically have industry experience and industry knowledge. The best leaders have the additional skills of both foresight and insight. This allows them to see the future trends and events as they draw upon their vast well of subject matter. Seeing future trends allows them to ensure the salon will be organised to make change and growth happen. As Leaders in 2015 we know ‘to make it happen, you need some action’.

Salon Leaders need to know what it will take to affect change in the business in terms of organisation, people, process and the financial input required to get a result. In our current market the Leader knows that resources are finite, so to affect change priorities have to be listed and acted upon. Changes may often be adamantly opposed at the time. Yet when the leader leads from the front and makes sacrifices, this is evidence to staff and clients that they are ‘walking the talk’ and that’s when others follow!

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The Leader that makes a difference and is successful will need to embrace this new stewardship role of ‘what can I do for you to enable you to be successful?’ MODEL YOUR 2015 LEADERSHIP ABILITY ON THE FOLLOWING 4 SUCCESSFUL STRATEGIES

example that your team, your clientele and your suppliers can see. The leader is that person! The leader is the one who the managers, the seniors, the new apprentices, and all other staff follow.

1. LEARN TO BE AWARE Develop the need to read and become more aware of the culture in your salon. Take the time to ‘be the receptionist a half day a week’ as staff and clients enjoy the presence of a good leader. Attend the Business Network Groups locally, talk with and learn from your accountant, and avoid just filing that data. Get to understand everything – clients, retail, services, stock turnover, staff, incoming phone calls and more! Test and measure yourself with a business coach or mentor or product supplier; even if it is only three times a year. This will hone your leadership skills as you learn to be personally accountable for your salon’s culture of success.

3. THE LEADER MUST KNOW THEMSELVES AS A PERSON Be the person that you truly are. Be grounded, be compassionate, be understanding and live your values. Ask for and accept only the best on the day and be respected for having standards. Make your decisions focussed on honesty, integrity and dignity.

4. ENGAGE WITH THE TEAM The leader must focus on the major business themes – the important issues in the salon – and have the day to day operational processes managed by another team member. But inspiring leaders must keep their entire teams informed and let them know they are appreciated.

2. ALWAYS BE AN EXAMPLE and be visible, be conspicuous, be present at staff meetings – you are the Salon Leader and what you do the business will do. Unfortunately, there is no escape from this accountability when you are the Leader. This leadership role is more demanding, and at times tiring during challenging economic times. Your role as Leader remains crucial to your success.

The Leader must engage all of the team. The leader is aware and accepting of the differing personalities in the group and acknowledges that the team members are different. Spend time with each individual if your staffing numbers allow, and establish what their motivational drivers are. Is it performance based reward or work-life balance? Opportunity to learn and grow in the hairdressing and beauty therapy industry? Collaborative and positive team relationships? The Purpose that your salon embraces as it works towards making a real difference in the community? Then engage your team members based on what they want.

You set the behaviour of the business in your salon. Lift your professionalism and join with HITO and the New Zealand Association of Registered Beauty Therapists. Make it clear that you’ve engaged with these organisations and that you’re committed to quality. This is a truly visible, professional difference that you can make, today, to set an

The above ‘leadership in action’ skills will allow you to grow into a strong leader in your salon. To execute to make a difference in this decade, you must acquire good will. You acquire it by embracing the above strategic steps. In so doing, you are helping and enabling your staff, colleagues, customers, suppliers and business neighbours to be successful! And as you begin or continue, on your leadership journey please embrace Jim Rohn’s statement:

“Don’t wish it was easier; wish you were better. Don’t wish for fewer problems; wish for more skills. Don’t wish for fewer challenges; wish for more wisdom.” MARGARET WALSH CONSULTING – WWW.MARGARETWALSHCONSULTING.CO.NZ

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CARING FOR YOUR POSTURE Kieran Janes of KJ Scissors shares his tips for caring for you and your scissors.

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n past issues we looked at caring for your scissors, but what Kieran really cares about is you! So this issue we are going to look at posture while cutting. Correct posture will help you to use your body and energy more effectively. In this way, I hope you can avoid a lot of unnecessary hand/neck and shoulder strain or even possible injury to yourself.

Some of these ideas can be hard to explain in writing alone, but if you study the accompanying photos you can see some things you can think about and practice.

>> CORRECT POSTURE AND ELBOW ANGLE Firstly, my mantra is “Elbows Down” – just like you were taught as a child to eat at the table. I’d love to say you need a pair of KJ Scissors to achieve this, but in reality you all you need is a good quality, offset pair of scissors which are craned down.

This position is comfortable to work in. You will find you have more energy if you work from this position. It helps the blood flow efficiently through your body, and as a bonus it makes you look elegant and graceful while working.

>> CORRECT GRIP

You can see our stylist Travis demonstrating this position in the accompanying images. His elbows sit against his sides near his waist. They stay at his sides.

Another way to ensure safe cutting posture is by using the “flip technique” comb hold. The commonly used “Oriental grip” can cause bone separation in the knuckle joints.

You can easily check your position periodically in the mirror. I recommend not letting your elbows go more than 45 degrees up from your sides.

My palming technique relieves a lot of hand stress. It also places the blades in a safe position for you and your client and allows you free and easy use of your hand.

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>> OTHER TIPS Finally, you should make use of your cutting stool. A stool will make sure you don’t have to stoop or stretch too much when working on clients. You should also adjust the client’s chair as necessary – this will allow you to keep good cutting posture and cut safely. Happy cutting!

FIND KIERAN JANES SCISSORS ON FACEBOOK! WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/KJSCISSORS


Do you wish someone could show you some real practical steps to help you with your business? A HITO ‘Keeping it Real’ session is 90 minutes of real, down-to-earth ideas and practical steps you can use as soon as you return to your salon. You’ll find out about many of the most critical success factors every salon needs to thrive in today’s competitive market.

Choose your closest venue and book in with HITO today. Auckland South

Wellington

Masterton

Tauranga

Auckland Central

Dunedin

Queenstown

Invercargill

Christchurch

Kapiti

06 May 11.30-1.30

04 May 9.30-11.00

04 May 1.30-3.00

13 May 12.30-2.00

20 May 11.30-1.00

24 May 6.00-7.30

25 May 6.30-8.00

25 May 12.30-2.00

08 June 10.30-12.00

15 June 12.30-2.00

The real information you’ll get by attending: A reality check! What it means to be a business owner. We will work fast and hard on mindset – one of the hardest concepts to master. The three magic figures that you need to manage and measure to make sure your business grows in the future. The one golden thing all super successful salons have in common and how easy it is for you to have it too.

"You'll leave with practical steps you can use immediately when you return to work."

To secure your spot call HITO on (04) 499 1180.

$30 per person. Visa or MasterCard accepted.


A CAREER IN TELEVISION MAKEUP Midge Holding, owner of Minifies Make-up, shares her advice on having a successful career as a make-up artist in TV and film.

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rom the age of 14 I knew I wanted to be a TV makeup artist. At school in London art was my strongest subject and I enjoyed participating behind the scenes in school productions. I always volunteered to do the makeup for stage productions and made it up as I went along. I also painted the scenery backdrops whenever possible. While still at school I researched what qualifications were necessary to become a BBC TV Makeup artist. I discovered I had to have "A" levels in Art and English, which I suppose would equate to NCEA Level 3, plus full training in either hairdressing or beauty therapy. The BBC was the only place in the UK to train at the time (this was the 1970s) so I knew it would be highly competitive.

Once I had achieved a beauty therapy qualification I worked for a year as Beauty Therapist in London until I was old enough to apply to the BBC (the minimum age was 20.5 years). I felt very lucky to be offered an interview as I was exactly 20.5 years the week of my interview.

failed any of the tests, we were removed from the course. There were no second chances in those days. The reason behind this was that to work in TV, a person must be able to deal with high levels of stress and work within time constraints. Any absenteeism was also unacceptable and resulted in dismissal. After three months those of us remaining (we lost four trainees) went to the BBC TV studios in London and worked under supervision for two years. After two years I was a fully qualified Makeup Assistant in all aspects and could work on productions by myself. After four years I was able to call myself a Makeup Artist.

The interview was terrifying and included practical tests. I had to age someone and apply a hairpiece, two things I had never done. From over 2000 applicants, I was chosen as one of the 15 trainees at the BBC makeup training school. We began with three months intensive training, learning something new each day. Every Friday was test day – if we

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This includes scripts in modern English, as well as scripts for Shakespeare productions and other older forms of English.

Over the next 20 years I worked on many productions, including my favourites which were period dramas. I enjoyed the research and creating looks from the past using makeup techniques, wigs and facial hair (for the men!). I also worked on quite a few episodes of Dr Who, another favourite of mine.

A continuity breakdown is a breakdown of which make-up needs to be applied on each day of the production. These are essential because productions are never filmed in order, which means that scenes that take place one after the other in a script might be filmed days or weeks apart. But the scenes need to look like they were filmed in order, and make-up is an important part of making that happen.

The hours were very long, and I used to spend many weeks away from home. 120 hour weeks are common in the industry – those wanting a social life should not become a TV Makeup Artist! I enjoyed the travel throughout Europe but I didn't always enjoy the many hours spent standing on set in the rain, snow, freezing temperatures or the heat of the summer.

2. W HY DID I HAVE TO BE 20.5 YEARS BEFORE APPLYING TO THE BBC TRAINING SCHOOL?

Much has changed since then, and there are now many training establishments’ worldwide offering makeup courses, including several in New Zealand. I would recommend anyone considering a serious career in TV/Film makeup artistry to complete a hairdressing qualification first. This will teach you the all-important people skills, plus the hairdressing skills essential for the TV and Film industries.

That was the BBC's minimum age. They stated that a makeup artist had to be able to look after themselves and deal with difficult situations and people and many younger people lack those skills. I have had to deal with some very difficult and sometimes aggressive people over the years and having a mature and calm attitude has helped. A makeup artist is usually the last person to see the actor or performer before they go on set and can get blamed if the day doesn't go well for them.

I have been asked two questions many times about my training:

The more qualified you are the better – hairdressing, beauty therapy and makeup artistry all blend well together. Makeup has been and always will be a highly competitive industry and there are hundreds of others clambering for work. To be the best, you should have the following qualities:

1. WHY DID I NEED ENGLISH "A" LEVELS? A TV/Film makeup artist must be able to read and understand a script in order to be able to do makeup continuity breakdowns.

• Be reliable. • Be organised. • Know how to invoice as most jobs now are freelance. • Ensure your makeup kit is clean and stocked appropriately for the job.

• Be prepared to work long hours. The makeup artist is usually the first to arrive and the last to leave and lunch breaks are a rarity.

• Be physically fit and be able to stand for hours and be able to carry heavy kits. No one will offer to carry your kit for you.

• Put yourself second and always aim to make the person you are working on feel good about themselves.

• Be flexible.

• Never gossip about other makeup artists.

• Be able to work alone or as part of a team.

• Maintain a high standard of presentation.

• Be honest.

Since emigrating to New Zealand in 1997 I have concentrated on education. During my teaching years I have met many very young students dreaming of becoming makeup artists. Many have fallen by the wayside due to poor attitudes, poor timekeeping, poor attendance, poor application and a know-it-all attitude. Such students will never make it in such a competitive industry. I have also seen some very successful outcomes, which as an educator is very rewarding.

WANT TO GET QUALIFIED IN MAKE-UP? CALL HITO ON 021 818 364 OR EMAIL BDEV@HITO.ORG.NZ TO DISCUSS YOUR OPTIONS.

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NEW STAFF AT HITO

We welcome Louise Walters to the HITO team.

We welcome Wanda Menchi as a contractor with the HITO team.

Louise Walters is the newly appointed Southern South Sales and Liaison Manager. The Southern South region covers the South Island from Ashburton down to the bottom of the island.

Wanda Menchi is joining the HITO team as a part-time assessor and moderator with the quality assurance team. Wanda has been in the hairdressing industry for 42 years. She started her apprenticeship with Dawn Atkinson at Kirkcaldie and Stains.

Louise comes to us with 18 years background in the fashion retail industry, with the last 13 years as the Dunedin manager for fashion retailer Glassons. "Moving to HITO presents me with new challenges and an opportunity to bring the skills and experience I have developed particularly during my time in management with Glassons in one of their flagship stores. I have a hands on style of working and the opportunity to work with and help people on their HITO journey is both humbling and exciting. I have a passion for training and love fashion".

Wanda ran her own studio for a number of years before making the change to tutoring. She won the HITO Tutor of the Year Award in 2009. Wanda also appeared on TV One’s Good Morning show, demonstrating basic skills to viewers. In 2013 she appeared in the Just the Job DVD which focussed on HITO apprenticeships.

Louise is mother to 4 adult children including 18 year old twins Briar and Fern. Long term residents of Mosgiel, Louise and her partner Michael enjoy travel, concerts and quality time with family. Keeping fit and enjoying relaxing on a lifestyle block with their 2 dogs, cat and sheep helps to give balance between a work and personal life.

Wanda represented the ITP (Institutes of Technology and Polytechnics) sector during the hairdressing review of qualifications in 2014. She recently left her tutoring position at Weltec and moved to the Marlborough Sounds. She is looking forward to using her hairdressing skills to work with HITO and continue to engage with industry.

Louise started at HITO on 26 January 2015. We’re very excited to have her on board.

YOU CAN CONTACT LOUISE ON 027 470 0171 OR EMAIL SLM7@HITO.ORG.NZ.

TO GET IN TOUCH WITH THE QUALITY ASSURANCE TEAM, PLEASE EMAIL AMA@HITO.ORG.NZ OR CALL (04) 499 1180.

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contact NATIONAL OFFICE PO Box 11 764 Wellington 6142 Phone (04) 499 1180

NORTHERN Phone (09) 579 4844 Mobile (027) 470 0169

AUCKLAND Phone (09) 579 4844 Mobile (027) 443 2401

MIDLAND Phone (09) 579 4844 Mobile (027) 480 6550

MID-CENTRAL Phone (04) 499 5150 Mobile (027) 470 0170

CENTRAL Phone (04) 499 5150 Mobile (027) 445 5758

NORTHERN SOUTH Phone (03) 338 5376 Mobile (027) 483 2405

SOUTHERN SOUTH Phone (03) 338 5376 Mobile (027) 470 0171



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