Hi weekly 1 12 2016 (camel issue) by Muscat Media Group

OMAN’S LARGEST CIRCULATED WEEKLY — 46,760 COPIES

VOL 10 ISSUE 47 / DECEMBER 1, 2016

THIS WEEK IN OMAN

CARAVAN AWAY THIS WEEKEND

TRY A CAMEL SHAKE AND DOG

MEET A BEAUTY QUEEN

A trip to Sharqiyah Sands is always an adventure, especially when you travel with locals on camelback. PAGE 8

Camel lattes, camel milk chocolate, and camel hotdogs offer a whole new way to enjoy a tasty traditional meal. PAGE 14

From gleaming blond hair to good family bloodlines, the bar is high for Oman’s four-legged beauty pageant contestants. PAGE 22

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

Give us a shout with questions, comments, compliments, complaints, or just to say “Hi” Founder Essa bin Mohamed Al Zedjali Chairman Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali CEO Ahmed Essa Al Zedjali scottarmstrong@timesofoman.com Chief Executive Editor Scott Armstrong felicia@timesofoman.com

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Associate Editors Salim Hamood Al Afifi Shruthi Nair

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CAMEL CALENDAR

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

CAMEL RACES December 21-22, 2016 Adam, Ad Dakhiliyah

January 4-5, 2017 Sohar, Al Batinah

January 11-12, 2017 Al Mudhaibi, Al Sharqiyah

CAMEL PERFORMANCES April 2-6, 2017

February 1-2, 2017 Adam, Ad Dakhiliyah

Camel Performance Cam “Ardha” Al Su Suwaiq, Al Batinah

April 12-13, 2017 South Al Sharqiyah

For more information on attending the above events, contact the Oman Camel Racing F Federation d +968 2449 2610, +968 2449 0494

PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED

FIVE TO TRY

CAMEL INSPIRED PRODUCTS

CAMELBAK Inspired by the camel’s resilience against thirst (as well as on the myth that the camel carries water on its back inside its hump), CamelBak water backpacks are now issued as standard equipment for several military forces throughout the world. With a drinking tube attached at the shoulder, it makes staying hydrated easy for hikers and outdoorsy types. Find it here: GoSport Oman, Muscat Grand Mall

CAMEL SPORT WATER BOTTLES Another item inspired by the camel’s ability to overcome thirst, Camel Sport Water Bottles were designed to be especially lightweight and easy to carry for outdoor endurance workouts and hikes. These bottles come in a variety of patterns, shapes and sizes. Find it here: Order on cafepress.com

CAMEL MILK SOAP Camel milk is said to be highly nutritious, packed with antioxidants and a plethora of vitamins to help boost immunity and rid the body of toxins. With that in mind, the UAEbased Camel Soap Factory created a line of gentle soaps made with a minimum of 25% camel milk. The bars whip up a foamy lather for a gentle cleansing and exfoliating effect. Find it here: WH Smith, Seeb International Airport, and Turtles Oman

Have you ever been to a camel event? Tweet us @ HiWeekly_Oman; tag us in your camel instagram photos @hiweekly_oman; or share with us on FB/hiweekly

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CAMEL BEAUTY FESTIVALS January 21-26, 2017 Al Faleej, Barka

February 5-9, 2017 Al Musannah, Al Batinah

March 12-16, 2017 Camel Milking and Beauty Festival Thumrait, Dhofar

August 13-18, 2017 Dhofar Autumn Festival for Beauty and Milking South Al Sharqiyah

CAMEL LATTES AND CAMELAIT Camel milk is taking centre stage as the newest health craze. Camelait, a wholesome, nutritious milk with a richer taste than traditional cow, won the award for the Best Nutritional Drink at the 2014 Middle East Beverage Awards and new camel milk cafes are cropping up around the region. Find it here: Try camel milk products at Majlis Cafe, Oman Avenues Mall

CAMEL COLADA First conceived by mixologists in Dubai, the Camel Colada is an Arabian twist on the classic Puerto Rican cocktail. To whip one up at home, blend two parts full-fat camel milk, one part coconut cream, and 3 oz of pineapple juice with ice. Add date syrup for additional sweetness, if you like, and top with fresh mint leaves.

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

THE WEEKEND ESCAPE

EXPLORING BIDIYAH’S

BEDOUIN LIFE

STORY SHRUTHI NAIR • PHOTOGRAPHY SALIM AL AFIFI

Have you been to the desert? Tell us about your experiences or share your photos on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and facebook.com/hiweekly

hat do you like most about an outdoor trip? For me, my favourite part of any excursion is meeting people from different cultures and nationalities. Though, when I set off for the Sharqiyah Sands, my head ﬁlled with fantasies of getting lost in time amid the dunes, camels, and Bedouins, I was more interested in getting to know four-legged, one-humped creatures, rather than the two-legged kind. I never imagined that my camel seeking journey would turn out to be one of the most enlightening experiences I’ve had in Oman so far. The long national day weekend and my almost absent social life provided me the perfect opportunity, so last Wednesday morning, I picked up a colleague and drove south for about two hours to the office of Bidiyah Safari. There I met Hamed, our guide for the day, who loaded us into his Land Cruiser and took off down the broad highway roads, which narrowed into the dirt passage way through Rakah village, ﬁnally spitting us out into the desert sands. My excitement grew as I began spotting little sand dunes from afar that grew taller and taller as we approached. The landscape wasn’t the only thing that transformed as we moved deeper into the desert — the Land Cruiser began to growl like a monster and Hamed became a wildman behind the wheel. We charged up and down the dunes following the tyre tracks created by the ٤x٤s

that came before us and making new tracks of our own. I was so glad that I hadn’t eaten much in the morning as it was an exciting, but gut-churning affair. We kicked up a plume of dust as we slid to a stop under a big tree. There, two German tourists sat on a huge mat enjoying coffee and dates with some Bedouins as camels were loitering around them. Upon getting out of the vehicle and surveying our surroundings, we realised that there was nothing else for at least a three km radius — just sun, sand, and patches of dry vegetation trembling in the breeze. We joined the Germans, a father and son who were eating plates of rice and chicken stew, and were handed our own plates of rice and saloona. No spoons. I looked around and realised everyone was scooping the mixture up with their ﬁngers. Initially I felt uncomfortable, as I’m unaccustomed to eating with my hands, but once I started to dig in, I realised that somehow the food was even more delicious eaten this way. We started chatting with the tourist and learned that the father, now ٧٨ years old, was a lifelong adventurer, having climbed Mount Kilimanjaro at the age of ٧٠, and the pair had been going on such trips every two years since the son’s teenager years. In between bites, Hamed cracked German and Arabic jokes. Full and happy, I got up to go meet the camels. They had more personality than I ever expected: Some were grumpy, some indifferent, and a few of the cuties clearly loved attention. Hamed joined me and began to explain. “Camels keep grudges, and it’s not very difficult to make them angry,” he said. “If they don’t like you they will kill

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you while you are sleeping,” he added, almost as an after thought. I laughed, thinking he was kidding, but his stern look told me differently. I backed away from the angry-looking camel, clicking selﬁes with the friendlier one nuzzling my arm. Set away from the others was a small enclosure with delicate-looking camels. Hamed explained that they were race camels, the most expensive camels in the herd. I asked him how they were chosen to race, and he explained that they had to come from a racing bloodline as the traits of a good racer are passed down. Behind us, the Germans had mounted two of the camels and were setting off on a camel safari. We got back into the Land Cruiser and continued to our next stop; the camp. If our ride to the picnic spot had been shaky, then the 10-minute trip to the camp was earthquake-y. As I bounced around the vehicle, I wondered how Hamed knew the way to the camp with no road, to trail, and no GPS. From what I could see, there weren’t even any landmarks, just dunes stretching to the horizon. Over the crest of a hill I saw a beautiful mirage in the middle of the desert. When I say beautiful, I mean beee-yooo-teee-fool. I grew up watching the Arabian Nights cartoon series and this little camp could have been pulled straight from a frame in that series. Camels sporting colourful saddles lazily sat outside a majestic, fortress-like mud entrance. We stepped out of the car and entered the camp where we were led to a small majlis and greeted with kahwa, tea, and dates. Before exploring the camp further, I decided to return to the camels, the creatures I was there to meet. I found them casually sunbathing while two little Omani boys peered at them, seemingly as excited as I was about my introduction to the huge creatures. I attempted an awkward conversation with the kids, made nearly impossible by the fact that I don’t understand a word of Arabic and they didn’t seem to understand a word of English, but somehow through gestures and giggles, they ended up getting me on top of one of the more docile of the herd. I was almost tossed off from the beginning, as I wasn’t holding on tight enough, and hadn’t figured out how to grip the back end of my ride with my legs, but once I righted myself, it was one of the most fun experiences I’ve ever had. My camel carried me around slowly and effortlessly (as a bonus, it was the first time all year that I didn’t feel like a heavy fatty). With occasional grunts and constant tail wagging, the camel was quickly moving to the top of my list of favourite animals. After meandering around, we stopped outside of a Bedouin hut where four kids were playing outside. I was under the impression that since the Bedus live so far away from the cities and civilisation and lead a semi-nomadic lifestyle, they were similarly old fashioned in their mindset. This just goes to show how ignorant we urbanites can be. Three women emerged from the shelter and greeted us. The eldest one, who wore a black face mask came forward and strongly shook our hands, both mine and my male colleague’s, something that many local women here in Muscat won’t do. We followed them into the hut, which turned out to be a temporary set up, without a ﬂoor or concrete walls, just woven palm to shade from the sun, and nearby, a traditional outdoor kitchen. One of the Bedouin woman, Salma, took us to another hut where all their handicrafts were on display. I was amazed to see the creativity of what they had made with such limited resources. There were phone cases and wallets made out of goat skin, wrist bands and sling bags made of colourful woven wool along with other crafts and trinkets made with locally available materials. Salma had no problem having her picture taken, though she wanted to review the shots and re-pose a few times.

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As I stood there, feeling a million miles away from my everyday life, I was reminded of why Oman is a country unlike any other

I was getting lost in the rustic setting, the hum and rhythm of the women’s voices transporting me somewhere else. Then the sound of Hamed calling to us from outside the camp snapped me back to reality. He told us it was time to head to sunset point. Honestly, I’m more of an activities person than a sightseeing person, so I was a little reluctant to go, but I didn’t want to be rude, so I said goodbye to the ladies and got back in the Land Cruiser. We drove up the highest dune and cruised along the ridge of the peak where we passed a number of other cars and people unloading tents while others lounged on camping chairs sipping on cold drinks and talking. We parked a little way off from the rest and got out to watch the desert’s ﬁnal act of the day. The sight of the fading sun setting the sands alight as it dipped behind the dunes was nothing short of breathtaking. The swirling winds were cool and soothing and the calm stillness was therapeutic. I sat down in the sand to face the glowing orange ball, lost in thought, feeling the cool breeze gently brushing my hair. Then a spider decided to settle down on my shoulder. My earsplitting scream broke the dramatic silence, for me and no-doubt though around me. Zen gone, I spent the rest of the sun lit hour racing my friend up and down the hill until the light was gone and it started getting chilly. The car crawled down the same dune at a near ٩٠ degree angle and took us back to the ecofriendly, solar-powered camp. Strolling along the dimly lit footpath, we passed a number of

concrete tents, a huge majlis where people were gathering to socialise, and a small dining area where we stopped to enjoy an Arabian buffet of lamb kebabs, rice with chicken stew, hummus, some salads, and a coke. After our meal, I noticed stairs leading up to the terrace of the dining area. I decided to go have a look, and I’m so glad that I did. I never knew you could see so many stars with the naked eye. Below the twinkling carpet of the sky, I could see the flickering fires of the camp below me and, in the distance, the headlights of cars parked up in the dunes. As I stood there, feeling a million miles away from my everyday life, I was reminded of why Oman is a country unlike any other. Every trip to a new corner of the Sultanate is an eye opening experience, one in which I find that I learn more about myself, the natural world, people, and in this case, why you should always stay on a camel’s good side. — shruthi@timesofoman.com

BOOK A BEDOUIN GETAWAY (OVERNIGHT AND DAY TRIPS AVAILABLE) Bediyah Safari +968 9286 4776 omansafaris.com Camel Ride Rates: 1 Hour, OMR15 2 Hours, OMR25 3 Hours, OMR35 Half Day OMR45 / Full Day OMR65

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OMANI SLANG

A LL A BO U T CAMELS

Interspersed with the Arabic conversations overheard throughout the capital city, even native Arabic speakers might be surprised to hear some unfamiliar words. Though Arabic is the official language in the Sultanate, there are all kinds of words and phrases that are purely local. Here’s your monthly primer from Hi’s Omani team members, Salim and Asmaa. — hiweekend@timesofoman.com ILLUSTRATION WINIE WIDYA ARIYANI

Have you tasted camel? What did you think? Show us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly

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DINING

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CAMEL ON MY PLATE CAMEL IN MY CUP STORY SWATI DASGUPTA PHOTOGRAPHY SHABIN E.

“C

THE MAJLIS OMAN AVENUES MALL, 2ND FLOOR AL GHUBRA +968 2200 9638

ome, let’s eat something different today,” I said to my photographer colleague as our car meandered on the highways towards Oman Avenues Mall. It was a sort of ‘food baiting’ for him as I knew we were heading to a place where I wouldn’t be eating anything owing to my food reservations. I was so intrigued after hearing about this distinctive cuisine, and I needed someone to taste on my behalf while my eyes feasted upon the entire affair. After all the pleasure of eating is not always about what touches your palate, good or bad, it is also about seeing, smelling, and experiencing something different. We arrived at The Majlis, Oman’s first and finest camel milk café. Camel milk or camel products have been a part of Oman’s heritage and culture from ancient times, when it was a staple of the bedouin diet, up to the mid 20th century. Loaded with health benefits, camel milk products have always been preferred over cow’s milk in this part of the world, as it is lower in fat, richer in vitamin C, and has been found to boosting the immune system. But we weren’t at Majlis Café for the health benefits, we were there for a culinary experience. I’d seen camel meat and milk on menus before, but I’d never been to a restaurant whose menu exclusively featured camel products. At Majlis Café, from camel milk caffe latte and cappuccino to milk shakes and milk chocolate, it’s an out-and-out camel affair. The first item to catch our fancy was the camel meat burger. The café manager Akil Mahdi, explained that some people choose camel meat burgers over beef burgers because camel meat is known to be healthier than other red meats including beef, as it is leaner, tastier, and packed with protein and vitamin E. The large sandwich arrived in a regular bun with a side of potato chips. My colleague looked at it with a little trepidation, squeezing the bun a few times before sinking his teeth into the dark brown patty smothered in cheese and topped with crunchy lettuce. “So how does camel taste?” I asked him, before he had even stopped chewing. I was overflowing with curiosity. “It’s a somewhere between the taste of beef and mutton...and it is quite juicy and succulent,” he said, taking another huge bite. Akil came over to explain more about their meat of choice, which is traditionally prepared during weddings and in some regions, like Dhofar, is even consumed daily. “Camel meat is widely eaten in the Middle East but you won’t find them being sold in supermarkets or served in restaurants. There are specialist camel butchers and the hump of the camel is the most treasured part which is used for eating as the flavour of the meat is very similar to veal,” he said. Apart from camel burger, at Majlis they also serve camel hotdogs, an array of hot and cold beverages made with rich camel milk, and a not-to-miss Omani halwa made with camel milk. The milk features a slight nutty, smoky flavour that pairs well with almost all the beverages on offer. The café also sells camel milk chocolates. Cooking with camel may be traditional, but the ways in which the milk and meat are used at Majlis are totally modern, and totally delicious, providing a great first taste of an exotic new cuisine. —swati@timesofoman.com

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HUMP Baby camel hump is a major delicacy here in the Arabian Gulf. Despite what many people think, there is no water stored in the hump, just fat, and underneath, rich, tender meat. Once the butcher has cut the hump from the carcass, it can be mariated and then roasted at about 220 C for 2-3 hours and then carve and serve the slices of meat with a bit of the caramelised fat.

AGE The younger camels have far more tender meat than their older counterparts, but if you are going for a big boy, then plan on long, slow cooking to tenderise the tougher meat. The maximum age for an eating camel should be three-years-old. SIZE A standard baby camel weights 30-45kg, yielding about 15-22kg of meat. A standard adult camel weighs 400-800kg, yielding 200-400kg of meat: Enough to easily feed a village. Which is exactly what it does in the form of shuwa during wedding feast in some places. GENDER Female camels are prized for their milk, which can be drunk or used to make yoghurt or cheese, so it’s the unfortunate male camels who are headed for the slaughter house. After all, a heard only needs one male. Additionally, females have a higher fat composition, which means a lower edible meat yield than the meaty, muscley males. PRICE AND CUT Camel meat is sold for a premium, as it is seen as healthy, delicious, and a specialty item. Minced camel meat ranges from OMR3.5-4.5 per kg, quarters go for OMR30-50, and to buy a whole camel at a livestock auction in Nizwa or Sinaw will cost about OMR300-600.

Shanks and Flank In some parts of the Arab world, the legs are boiled and eaten, and when roasted or boiled whole, they are consumed. For commercial purposes, this meat has too many tendons to make for a good steak or whole cut, so it is chopped off the bone and ground along with hump fat for things like camel burgers and kofta mince.

WHOLE Cooking a camel whole is quite a feat, and one typically left to Bedouin or to the Saudis who have been known to stuff the beast with roast chickens and lambs. In some large restaurant kitchens, the baby camel carcass is bound with the legs curled under the body, and it is boiled whole in huge vats. In villages, it is more popular to roast over an open ﬁre, or slowly cook over hot embers, as with Oman’s beloved shuwa. For this preparation, the camel is cut into more manageable pieces and rubbed with oil and spices, then wrapped in banana leaves and placed underground over hot embers to cook for at least 24-hours.

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Perhaps you have eaten a camel burger (quite possibly topped with gold leaf) at one of the fancy restaurants in the Emirates, or right here at the posh Majlis Café. Or perhaps you have had the opportunity to eat the rich stewed camel meat served at roadside stands in Salalah or at some small restaurants in Al Khoud. But, unless you are from Dhofar or the interior, you likely have never had occasion to shop for cuts of camel meat, break down a carcass, or think about how to cook the various parts of this noble beast. I certainly haven’t, but as a former food writer, I have always wondered. So, in honour of Hi Weekly’s camel issue, I set off to ﬁnd out how it’s done. STORY FELICIA CAMPBELL • ILLUSTRATION GERI B. SONNY

HEAD As with goats, in tribal culture, the brain of the whole roasted animal is a singular delicacy usually reserved for the guest of honour or eldest male family member.

RIBS AND LOINS Meat from the side of the animal, behind the ribs and along the back (but not the hump) can be cut like a short loin or top round and used in stews, or even cut into steaks and grilled. For cubed stew meat, brown in fat and then boil with vegetables and seasonings, plus some thing acidic like tomatoes, for at least two hours or until fork tender. For grilling the steaks, be sure to cook well-done and marinate ﬁrst in an acidic marinade to help tenderise.

NECK The neck has a surprising amount of meat on it, and when boiled, it becomes so tender that it can easily be pulled from the bone.

Camel is most often described as a cross between lamb and beef, with a slightly sweet and sometimes slightly gamey ﬂavour. It is a naturally tough meat, so it is best slow cooked, braised, or roasted after being marinated. Both to break down the tendons and for food safety reasons, camel should always be served well-done. Despite the very fatty hump, overall, camel meat is high in protein and lower in fat than beef.

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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY SALIM AL AFIFI

For thousands of years, the ancient bond between a Bedouin and his ‘the ship of the desert’ had been one of the strongest, longest, and most sincere relationships he will ever have, built on a foundation of love, respect, and survival. The sole source of transportation through the harsh Arabian desert, often the only source of shade from the unrelenting sunlight, and a reliable source of daily staples like milk, meat, and wool, a camel is perhaps the most essential member of the bedouin tribe.

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Al Tail, a beauty pageant contestant owned by Abdullah Al Malki.

s times change, people have become less dependent on camels as means of transport, but the noble beasts are still treasured for their historic loyalty and contributions to the Bedouin way of life. Bedouin culture has been preserved and continues to be celebrated in the Sultanate, and within it. Breeding and raising camels, whether for racing, showing, or cooking, is a distinct culture, in and of itself, for a select few within the Bedouin communities of the interior regions, especially Ash Sharqiyah, Al Batinah, and Dhofar. Camels are raised by their owners in special, sandy farms known locally as ozba, where camels eat, sleep, train, and breed in a safe environment, away from metropolis noises. Just a handful of workers dedicate their time attending to the camelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs, from food to hygiene to breeding. Whether in dry lands of Sharqiyah Sands or the lush farms of Al Batinah, for those

who raise camels, the importance of preserving their art is unparalleled. Raising the camels is delicate affair that must be mastered through gaining a deep understanding of these animals. This will minimise the risk of camel attacks. Camels, in general, are smart, quick-learning, friendly creatures, unless they are treated badly. If a camel does feel abused or slighted, they have a tendency to hold grudges against those who harm them, sometimes with violent results. Otherwise, they are lovely animals that are a gift to the people of the desert and most owners know every single detail about their camels, from physical traits to personalities, as they attend to their favourite (usually prize-winning) camels themselves. Camels that are meant to be used for food production, must be fed a daily natural diet of things such as dates, milk, and ghee, which contribute to the meat and milkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overall ďŹ&#x201A;avour. Beauty pageant camels and racing camels have their own carefully crafted diets, the former being fed rich foods to fatten them

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Warrior Camels Through the Ages By Gautam Bhargav Viswanathan 3000 BC 2500 BC 1500 BC 1200 BC 843 BC 547 BC

480 BC 117 AD

622 AD

1162 AD

1187 AD

1451 AD 1798 AD

1855 AD

1891 AD

1912 AD

1914 AD

1916 AD

1920 AD 1926 AD

1931 AD

1942 AD

1965 AD

The camel is first domesticated in Somalia and Southern Arabia The two-humped Bactrian Camel is domesticated in Central Asia The first camel saddle is invented Camels begin to be used as pack animals First use of camels in warfare, at the Battle of Qarqar The Persians record a decisive victory at the Battle of Thymbra as their camel cavalry help turn the tide of the conflict against the Achaemenid Empire Camels prove decisive in the second Persian invasion of Greece Roman Emperor Hadrian recruits camel riders, called dromedarii, into his North African armies Arab armies extensively use camels as they conquer large parts of Northern Africa, France, Spain, and all of the Middle East to form the Islamic Caliphate Mongol leader Genghis Khan begins to use camels as both battle mounts and supply transports during his conquests Saladin unites Arabia against the Crusader kingdoms during the Second Crusade, and camels prove to be decisive as they help take back the key city of Jerusalem. The Ottoman Army forms a camel corps as part of its cavalry division Napoleon Bonaparte employs camel cavalry during his Mediterranean campaign The United States Camel Corps, an experimental mounted division, is promoted by Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis Germany forms the Schutztruppe to protect colonial interests in Africa. Standing forces include a camel corps France creates a mehariste camel corps as part of its African Army, to provide greater mobility against Tuareg insurgents The British create the Egyptian Camel Transport Corps to provide supplies to soldiers fighting in the deserts of the Middle East and Africa during the World War I The British Imperial Camel Corps is formed to participate in active combat during the World War I Italian colonies in Africa recruit Somali camel riders into their forces Spain’s Tropas Nomadas, a standing army for Spanish colonies in Africa, is formed, including camel cavalry units Jordan recruits a camel corps into its army. This corps is used to carry out border patrols to this day Romanian Axis troops use Bactrian camels to cross the Caucasus wastelands during the World War II India’s Border Security Force incorporates camels into its border patrol missions —gautam@timesofoman.com

up, and the latter being fed lighter fare to keep them slender and race-ready. Oman’s camel breeding farms are massive, which, according to camel experts, allows the camels to feel more natural and at home as they are able to wander around freely and comfortably. There are few words to express how beautiful these places are, appearing like oasis of fresh air and sandy wind surrounded by unique looking trees known as ghaf. In the wild, camels usually move in a group that consist of one male (the leader) and several females. If a group ends up with more than one mature male camel in tow, the males will battle each other, and only the victorious will remain with the herd. But domestic camel breeding is all about roots. Every breeder knows the vital signiﬁcance of protecting bloodlines, as negligence can result in hybrid camels, which are not as valuable as those with familial track records that go back to more than 200 years. Breeding is therefore a very controlled process, with camel ancestry closely tracked to ensure mating occurs within the right group, with champion racing camels pairing with other

champion racers, beauty pageant winners with other pure blood specimens. Whether to produce an heir to a champion line or to increase the size of a consumable herd, the breeding process is the same. The male camel becomes mature around the age of four to six years old and its female counterpart becomes mature at the age of three or four. A single male can impregnate up to 70 females during one season, so breeders must ensure the right male camel is with the appropriate female herd. Munakh al ibl, or “camel season” varies a bit from place to place in Oman, but typically begins in early September and runs through February or March. During this time, male Arabian camels develop a sack that hangs from their mouths and produces a foul, foamy white spit. They start making distinctive gurgling sounds with heads held high whenever approaching a female. This behaviour marks the beginning of a courtship situation for which the male will release urine onto its tail and mark its territory by using its neck to rub a foul-smelling, brown substance to further attract the female, before beginning to mate.

The female camel responds by urinating slowly in front of the male, and rubbing her body against him, which will maximise his arousal. The female will then sit in a kneeling position and the male will approach and mount. The mating lasts for ten to twenty minutes. There are times where the female refuses to kneel, so the male will use various techniques, including rubbing its nose on the female’s neck and down the sides of the body to the genital region. If this doesn’t work, the male may use its neck and brute strength to push the female’s body down into the kneeling position or bite the female. If the female runs, the male will pursue until mating has been achieved. There are countless breeds of these singlehump dromedaries around the Middle East, but in Oman the three main types include Omaniyat, which originated in Oman and are known for sporting a khaki brown palette; Sudaniyat, which feature a beautiful white coat and, as the name suggests, have roots in the dry lands of Sudan; and Hainiyat, which come from Saudi Arabia, Yemen, and the Southern part of Oman and feature a dark brown, almost black-coloured pelt. Within these breeds are bloodlines of camels known to produce beautiful-looking baby camels, which end up being prize-winning kings and queens of the camel beauty festivals. These camels require special attention and feeding and are quite expensive, with price tags soaring above one hundred thousand rials for those from well-known champion lineages. Racing champion bloodlines are also highly valued, with camels bred to be lighter in weight, and smarter, than the average dromedary. Bloodline is important for the status of the racing camels, but, according to experts, any camel from any breed or bloodline can be trained to become a champion, though it requires extreme efforts. Other camel breeds and bloodlines without prestigious roots are kept mostly for human consumption, touristic purposes, or breeding. The females have a better chance at avoiding the slaughterhouse as they produce milk and more baby camels. The males, whose muscular composition yields more edible ﬂesh, are more typically used for their meat. Some camel owners feel that the heritage of raising camels is fading, due, in their opinions, to the modern ambitions of the younger generations, but in many parts of the Sultanate, this fascinating tradition remains vibrant through families of camel breeders who come from long camel-raising bloodlines of their own. They continue to pass their knowledge on to their children, honouring the noble craft of their ancestors and the noble beasts upon whom our people’s survival so depended. —salim@timesofoman.com

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THE RULES The rules are simple and straightforward: No hybrid breeds. No fur-dyeing, colouring, or tattooing (the camels’ appearance must be natural). To participate the camel must be within the age range put in place by the contest organisers. The age will be veriﬁed by checking the teeth.

THE CRITERIA Unlike beauty competitions in Pakistan and other parts of the world, here in the Gulf, it’s all about raw beauty, and for these doe-eyed mammals, the criteria is simple yet interestingly precise. Beautiful camels must come from a pure bloodline to be eligible for the contest. For your camel to be crowned as the king or the queen of camels (both males and females can compete), it must be from an genuine Arabian and Omani progeny, and not a hybrid breed. Owners must swearing-under-oath to the authenticity of their camel’s origins before the contest. Once the breed has been established, the physical characteristics are examined. A beautiful camel should have a wellproportioned body and face; long gharib (the area between the hump and the neck); clear and huge hump; long body; ﬁrm ears; pouty lips; broad cheeks; big whiskers; a long, straight neck; long, straight legs, and fur shimmer. Another crucial aspect is the colour of the camel. This pretty-faced beast comes in numerous shades, from white (also called blonde camel), to the typical, fashion-inspiring ‘camel’ colour, to dark khaki, to black. The brighter the fur, the more beautiful the camel. On top of all this, the camel should have good posture, body strength, and, most important of all, a large overall size — the bigger the camel, the better the chances of winning the title.

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RUNWAY CAMELS These aren’t your average supermodels. Super tall, super blonde, and super elegant, with an attitude to match, these beauties command rates of over a million dollar for strutting their stuff. STORY SALIM AL AFIFI

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, camels were prized in Bedouin culture as they carried heavy loads on their backs, fed hunger with their ﬂesh, and quenched thirst with their milk. The beloved desert dwellers are also considered quite beautiful, and during pageant competitions, the perfect specimens are crowned. Yes, camel beauty pageants. Around the world, these pageants take many forms, from accessories and hump embellishments to elaborate designs shaved into the fur, but here in Oman, it is all about natural beauty. But what qualities make one camel more lovely than the another? The only time I’d use the words ‘beautiful’ and ‘camel’ together in a sentence was in reference to the colour of a snappy gentleman’s overcoat. So I travelled to Barka to meet Abdullah Said Al Malki, a camel owner and breeder who’s specialised in raising pretty camels, to ﬁnd out about the world of camel divas. —salim@timesofoman.com

AL TAIL: ABDULLAH’S CHAMPION Abdullah introduced me to Al Tail, his prize camel who has won numerous awards in camel beauty festivals in Oman, and around the Gulf. Al Tail is a towering blond beast, and is worth a small fortune, as he meets all the criteria for camel perfection and is one of the most sought-after breeds in the world of camels. According to Abdullah, Al Tail’s beauty is thanks to his bloodline, as his father is part of the Royal Camel Corp.

THE PREPARATIONS Just like human stars, pretty camels are treated extravagantly, requiring extra attention, special care, and a dose of positive vibes in a comfy atmosphere. At the camel farm, each beauty queen is kept in individual enclosed circular spaces (the equivalent to a suit in a hotel, I’d say), and fed routinely with fresh honey, dates, pure ghee, milk, wheat, dry leaves, and green leaves from the ghaf tree (a tree typically found in deserts or empty lands), to add extra fat and curves to the camel. This feeding regiment will also contribute to its size (size vitally matters, remember?). The beasts undergo routine health checkups, too. Abdullah put emphasis on treating the pageant contestants carefully and making them happy. He compares his prize camel to a delicate woman, for which one must take care to ensure all needs and desires are met. Caring for the divas may include putting up nets to eliminate wind or placing a cool cloth on their humps to minimise sun exposure. Treating them in this manner will ensure that they stay healthy, strong, and ready to hit the stage for a chance at being be crowned most beautiful of all.

THE CONTESTS Camel beauty contests are traditional bedouin festivals known as ‘Muzayana’ or ‘Muzayanat Il Ibl’.Historically, bedouin would pit their prettiest camels against one another to compete for the title of ‘most beautiful camel’ in front of a judging panel of camel experts. To preserve, strengthen, and glorify ancient Arabian culture in a perpetually modernising world, the festivals continue today with hefty incentive prizes that include money, cars, and items such as Khanjars, swords, and silverware. The festivals are celebrated in many Gulf countries, with popular contests held in Saudi Arabia, the Emirates, Qatar, and of course, here in the Sultanate. WATCH THEM WALK For information about attending a camel beauty pageant, get in touch with Abdullah Al Malki +968 9943 8454

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JOURNEYING INTO THE PAST STORY SHRUTHI NAIR • PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

he so-called ‘ships of the desert’ were an integral part of the history of the Arab world, without these one-humped creatures, the story of the region would have been entirely different as camels played huge roles in everything from trade and transport to food and battles. Arabian camels have been domesticated for over 3,500 years, and they enabled the people in the Middle East explore the vast lands, monopolise trade routes, and carry the Islamic religion from the Gulf to other countries. Biologically ideal for the desert climate, Arabian camels (doromodaries), can carry huge loads of 274 to 450kg for up to 50km straight, marching over thorns, leaves, and other dry vegetation on large, padded feet that allow them to walk on the difficult terrain of shifting sands. These beasts store enough water in their bodies to stay hydrated for a journey of up to 160km. Nostril ﬂaps, long eyelashes, and a divided upper lip naturally protect them from blowing sands, and a keen sense of smell allows them to detect danger and water. Camels were so efficient at “off-roading” that the ancient Arabs actually avoided the roads built by Romans and Persians in the Pre-Islamic period. These mighty beasts were also unsung battle heroes who could cross various terrains at speeds enemies never expected, thus aiding in many ancient wartime victories. But more than vehicles or weapons, camels represented survival to the Bedouin nomadic tribes as they offered transport, a source of food, and companionship for life. Up until 70 years ago, camels were the only mode of transport for the people of Oman, but with time and

an ever-modernising world, many no longer appreciate the importance of these amazingly self-sufficient creatures, which were so foundational to the Arab people’s survival centuries ago. Ahmed Al Mahrouqi, an ardent lover of camels, wondered whether it was possible for people of the 21st century to really understand how their forefathers once lived and travelled. Inspired, he developed a plan to experience their nomadic lifestyle for himself by taking a road trip by camel. Ahmed knew it would require careful preparation, first and foremost, training both himself and his camel to communicate. He spent months with camels, learning about their needs and their language. He found that there were many words and sounds that camels understand and react to, for instance, “khhrr” in camel language means “sit”. They are smart creatures, but it takes patience and time to understand them and train them to understand you. In 2013, after three months of training and familiarisation, Ahmed Al Mahrouqi set out on his first trip from Bidiya to Nakhal. On that journey, Ahmed found that he preferred travelling alone, with just his two camels and some jazz music. The camels, one male and the other female, made an energetic team. While the male camel was so reliable that he could count on it to take him on the right path, even if he dozed off, the female could be naughty and playful and needed to be attended to as she was easily distracted. Together, they seemed to keep one another in line. The long, quiet trek gave Ahmed time to think and reflect, ridding himself of the stress and mundane worries of modern life. His son Fahd would meet him every three to four hours with food and

refreshments for both he and the camels and at night Fahd and Ahmed would camp like Bedouins, sometimes chatting away, other times just enjoying the sound of silence. For Ahmed’s second trip, he set the bar even higher for himself, planning a ride from the Royal Palace in Old Muscat to the palace in Salalah. By car the 1,000km trip takes about 11 hours, by ﬂight it is just over an hour. On camel, it was expected to take nearly a month. Halfway into the trip, Fahd received a scare when he drove down to deliver food and water to his father and realised that Ahmed was nowhere to be found. A frantic search began for the lost man, who was discovered in the afternoon some 50km down the road, relaxing in the shade with his camel pair. It took Ahmed almost a month to cover the distance, but he was more than happy to have done it. When asked about the strain of the long trip he just laughed. “We have all forgotten to be patient,” he said, proudly ﬁnishing his ride at the gate of the Salalah Palace where he was met with unexpected media and public attention. Ahmed set off on his third trip earlier this year, following in his ancestor’s footsteps as he made his way from Muscat over the boarder to Abu Dhabi. It will not be his last. Through his travels, Ahmed feels that he has discovered a deeper insight into himself, his heritage, and his beloved nation. By forgoing the comforts and speed of travelling by car, his trips have offered him a kind of portal into the past where he had earned a deeper appreciation for the strength and endurance of his ancestors, and the immense value, personality, and majesty of his one-humped companions. —shruthi@timesofoman.com

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

Suhail Bahwan Group celebrated the 46th National Day with passion and pride.

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At the Al Yam Auditors Cricket Cup Ernst & Young beat PwC by 10 runs to win the Al Yam Enterprises sponsored Auditors Cricket Cup 2016. The chief guest for the evening was Indian Ambassador Indramani Pandey.

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

Dar Al Atta’a’s Golf Tournament was held at the Ghala Golf Club to raise funds to furnish a home for needy families.

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Himachali Diwali celebrations 2016 celebrated at a farmhouse by over 100 Himachalis with fun, gaiety, and bonhomie.

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Muscat Maheshwari Group celebrated Diwali 2016 with special childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s performances.

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Indian Dental Fraternity of Oman celebrated the 46th National Day at the Majan International Hotel.

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016

SUDOKU

HOW TO PLAY Fill empty cells with the numbers 1 to 9, so that each number appears once in each row, column, and area.

Level | Easy

9 5

9 2

7 1

Level | Moderate

7 8

5 1

9 4 1

8 9

3 7

4 1

Level | Difficult

8 6 1

4 3

7 9

3 8

7 8

5 9

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 47 DECEMBER 1, 2016